Although yellow pine has a tricky grain due to its hard rings, you will have a lot less nails go astray if you orient the nailgun so that it is in line with the length of the wood as opposed to perpendicular to it. A trick I was taught when I first was introduced to a finish nailer doing trim work. Steve, thank you for all of your GREAT content! It has been a great help.
I’m gonna remember that the next time I nail some yellow pine…. You’d think I’d know a trick like that by now but apparently I have yet to arrive at a place where there’s nothing left to learn….
Maybe. But I think more that it has to do with the chisel shape at the point of the nail. Turning the gun to orient with the grain might cause the nail to better slice through the grain rather than be guided by it. That’s my theory anyway
From my experience it is just the simple angle of the nail gun. If the gun is perpendicular than any tipping of the gun forward or rearward quickly directs the nail towards the face. But being "in line" with the "length" of the wood a tipping forward or rearward still keeps the nail in the wood. In other words it is easier to keep the nail gun aligned side to side as opposed to forward and rearward. Now yellow pine is a difficult wood to nail as those rings are hard and soft as you have probably felt when using the mortising machine. The nail can ride that grain at times no matter what you do. Unless you pre-drill!
I would love to see you make a video from start to finish on how to build plan and assemble a double hung window frame and the windows themselves with the weights and parts required! I’m here in North Carolina I’m trying to get into custom window building for fun
Great craftsmanship. I understand windows come in all sizes but do you have basic plans for like where the pulley slots go and the dividers say for a 2x6 framed wall. I'm not sure what the typical reveal is like where the window sash sits in the middle of the frame or more towards the outside or inside? I would love to try and build my own window, but there are a lot of grooves that I am sure are specifically placed. Mainly basic plans for a general window?
No plans. One day maybe. Usually put my pulleys 6” on center from the head jamb. The parting bead channel is 1-7/16 from the edge, assuming a blind stop attached to it. The slots for the weight pocket door are hidden underneath the parting bead in the parting bead channel and underneath the window stop. The cross cuts for the weight pocket door are usually hidden underneath where the bottom sash goes. Those are the basics
Very nice! Is that kd pine? I live in LA and fix windows for property management companies and come across a lot of wood sash windows and would love to get into this type of work but it’s intimidating trying to get wood at these lumber yards not know what I really need. What kind of wood would I ask for when making sashes?
It’s kiln dried. You can make a sash out of any wood. I don’t know if any easily obtainable wood has an real advantage over any other easily obtainable wood. I’ve made a lot of sash out of KDAT but it’s heavy and tends to warp. I’ve made sash out of cypress but it tends to rot, I made them out of Accoya for a long time but it attracts mold. Right now I’m using a wood called Red Grandis. Don’t have much data on it yet. But I’ve made sash out of a clear yellow pine Home Depot 2x10 before and it is still in use. So it’s hard to say confidently anymore. What I would feel comfortable saying is to use the best wood you can get your hands on at a price you can pay. To me that’s reasonable.
What are the thickness and width of your casing stock? This is Pressure Treated (Cu/As) wood??? Is there just one groove for the parting bead, and then the outside blind stop and inside trim (to hold bottom sash in) are added? What are the dimensions of the parting bead, and how far is it recessed? (1/2”x1/2” & 1/4”?). Then the stoop (inside sill) is added?
Thickness and width of casing stock is variable but always 3/4 or better. Just one groove for the parting bead, yes. KDAT pine, yes. Blind stop and window stop added, yes. Parting bead 1/2 x 3/4 usually but I like to make it a little stronger than 3/4, especially in old work. Stool goes on first, before any interior casing
@@WoodWindowMakeover Thank You so much. If the casing is 3/4” how much is the parting bead recessed into the casing? I’m worried about leaving enough wood under the recess/dado…
Although yellow pine has a tricky grain due to its hard rings, you will have a lot less nails go astray if you orient the nailgun so that it is in line with the length of the wood as opposed to perpendicular to it. A trick I was taught when I first was introduced to a finish nailer doing trim work. Steve, thank you for all of your GREAT content! It has been a great help.
I’m gonna remember that the next time I nail some yellow pine…. You’d think I’d know a trick like that by now but apparently I have yet to arrive at a place where there’s nothing left to learn….
@@WoodWindowMakeover maybe because of the guides at the exit of the nail gun or there is a spin momentum given to the ♦️
Maybe. But I think more that it has to do with the chisel shape at the point of the nail. Turning the gun to orient with the grain might cause the nail to better slice through the grain rather than be guided by it. That’s my theory anyway
From my experience it is just the simple angle of the nail gun. If the gun is perpendicular than any tipping of the gun forward or rearward quickly directs the nail towards the face. But being "in line" with the "length" of the wood a tipping forward or rearward still keeps the nail in the wood. In other words it is easier to keep the nail gun aligned side to side as opposed to forward and rearward. Now yellow pine is a difficult wood to nail as those rings are hard and soft as you have probably felt when using the mortising machine. The nail can ride that grain at times no matter what you do. Unless you pre-drill!
I would love to see you make a video from start to finish on how to build plan and assemble a double hung window frame and the windows themselves with the weights and parts required!
I’m here in North Carolina I’m trying to get into custom window building for fun
That May happen some day
3:40 that was one of my question . Thx
Great craftsmanship. I understand windows come in all sizes but do you have basic plans for like where the pulley slots go and the dividers say for a 2x6 framed wall. I'm not sure what the typical reveal is like where the window sash sits in the middle of the frame or more towards the outside or inside? I would love to try and build my own window, but there are a lot of grooves that I am sure are specifically placed. Mainly basic plans for a general window?
No plans. One day maybe. Usually put my pulleys 6” on center from the head jamb. The parting bead channel is 1-7/16 from the edge, assuming a blind stop attached to it. The slots for the weight pocket door are hidden underneath the parting bead in the parting bead channel and underneath the window stop. The cross cuts for the weight pocket door are usually hidden underneath where the bottom sash goes. Those are the basics
Very nice! Is that kd pine? I live in LA and fix windows for property management companies and come across a lot of wood sash windows and would love to get into this type of work but it’s intimidating trying to get wood at these lumber yards not know what I really need. What kind of wood would I ask for when making sashes?
He says it's kiln-dried pine at 3:36.
It’s kiln dried. You can make a sash out of any wood. I don’t know if any easily obtainable wood has an real advantage over any other easily obtainable wood. I’ve made a lot of sash out of KDAT but it’s heavy and tends to warp. I’ve made sash out of cypress but it tends to rot, I made them out of Accoya for a long time but it attracts mold. Right now I’m using a wood called Red Grandis. Don’t have much data on it yet. But I’ve made sash out of a clear yellow pine Home Depot 2x10 before and it is still in use. So it’s hard to say confidently anymore. What I would feel comfortable saying is to use the best wood you can get your hands on at a price you can pay. To me that’s reasonable.
I always use Spanish cedar
What are the thickness and width of your casing stock? This is Pressure Treated (Cu/As) wood??? Is there just one groove for the parting bead, and then the outside blind stop and inside trim (to hold bottom sash in) are added? What are the dimensions of the parting bead, and how far is it recessed? (1/2”x1/2” & 1/4”?). Then the stoop (inside sill) is added?
Thickness and width of casing stock is variable but always 3/4 or better. Just one groove for the parting bead, yes. KDAT pine, yes. Blind stop and window stop added, yes. Parting bead 1/2 x 3/4 usually but I like to make it a little stronger than 3/4, especially in old work. Stool goes on first, before any interior casing
@@WoodWindowMakeover Thank You so much. If the casing is 3/4” how much is the parting bead recessed into the casing? I’m worried about leaving enough wood under the recess/dado…
@@jimbaranski4687 I think you mean the jamb. It recesses in about 1/4” so it can stick out a 1/2
@@WoodWindowMakeover I mean the bead that is between the sashes, and holds the top sash in. Thanks!
@@jimbaranski4687 it recesses in 1/4” and sticks out 1/2”
Steve , question :which really good glazing putty knife do you use ?
I like a 1-1/2” Wood handled, stiff chisel point myself.
@@WoodWindowMakeover thank you !
Yes, I have sashes with no frames. I need to know how to do this
What gauge nails are you using for the frame?
15 gauge I think
How do u know if u have a historic window worth keeping ?
How do you cut out the weight slots?
KDAT wood, Where do you get yours?
Here in Tampa I get it from a place called Lumber Specialties. In San Antonio it’s Allen And Allen