I hope the folks at Enginediy/MUSA watch this video to see how slow the engine should run. Hopefully they take some of your pointers to improve this engine. Great job Thomas!!!!
Bonjour Thomas from France, Being at first a steam passionate (for RC model boats) I just discover by chance your channel with a great pleasure because I also have a collection of Hit & Miss engines (Microcosm and Enjomor) and I have recently seen this MUSA that I will purchase. I am a very happy and lucky man because I have had various problems with almost all my engines, bought RTR, especially the worst Enjomor and have very skill mechanic friends to help me to repair them. I appreciate this video (among your others) because it tells me what problems I will have to face when I receive it. Between you and me, I think it is abnormal to have to work on RTR engines but if I have to, your experience is precious. Amicalement, Raphaël
Bojour mon ami! I love to get the comments that our community is useful and fun. To your comment, should RTR engine need work? For me, I think the time to optimise is time I enjoy spending and don't want to pay someone else to do! Best wishes for your hobby experience. Hope we can help! Thomas :)
I have just finally decided to purchase this very engine after looking at several other ones... I am looking forward to building this and getting it up and running. This will be my very first model engine build. Thanks for sharing your videos Thomas... It has really helped convinced me the money on this engine should be worth it. Cheers.
I'm so happy to hear that and anticipating the fun you'll have. The Chinese engines have come so far and they're easy to perfect and worth the money; I mean, they've all got to live too, right? ...Have you had a look at the instruction pdf the link is in the video description. It's VERY thorough and shows pride in the design and construction
@@ThomasPCGuruENGINES Thanks for your reply Thomas... I will check out the pdf whilst I wait for it to come. I am assuming you have had no trouble getting spare parts for this engine? I have seen you picked up piston rings easy enough. Cheers John
I enjoy watching all your videos as I have many of the same engines as you, my favourite up to now is the large green one as it starts with ease and great to watch, also I have been running all my engines on a 50-1 2 stroke mix perhaps more smoke than the best but I feel it helps to keep the cylinders lubricated, so far so good. Most of them just sit on a shelf look good and run from time to time for a short time trying not to wear out many of the brass parts, also I may have been running with a bit heavier oil on the gears and contact surfaces,perhas a 40 grade. Thanks again keep up the good work.
So nice of you to comment! We sound like we have the same idea with oil. I'm glad you enjoy the vids :) Have you had a look at the instruction pdf the link is in the video description. It's VERY thorough and shows pride in the design and construction
Nice tweaks, will be very helpful for all the owners of this model. Just an idea for replacement spring at the pushrod. I also noticed that the spring is too strong for its purpose so i took a smaller, weaker spring from a biro. Those springs fit exactly.
I like how slow you have your engine running Thomas. It is the slowest I have seen any ones run so far. I would get one of these if I could adjust to get it to run as slow but not sure if I have the knowledge to do that.
Thanks for visiting and commenting, welcome! My secret is 1. ignition at top dead center 2. loose governor spring 3. correct step on the governor "detent" lever; but that last one is optional....and of course 4. Plenty of cats. The cats don't help the engine run slow n steady but they help your sanity and serenity when Things Don't Work.
About gluing a piece of brass on the lever...did you have to file the edge down because of the added thickness the brass added? Brass is a bit hard to cut, why not glue on a piece cut out of a soda can? You can cut it with scissors, is very thin, and when/if it wears out just unglue it and replace it.
Hi Thomas. Great video! I just got my engine, and before I run it, can you tell me what kind of oil your using in the cylinder oiler to lubricate the cylinder? Thanks for showing the mods you did. I added to the step of the detent. I haven't tried a weaker exhaust valve spring, but the valve rod seems to return fine with the tension of the points, so I didn't put in the valve rod spring. Also, I didn't have to drill out the guide, but I did have to de-bur it. And I also have the ignition timing set just a wee bit past TDC. Thanks again for all the tips!
I recently purchased this retro Moussa -1 engine and I was wondering have you taken the cast wheels off after the bushings have been installed and how to do it. Thank you
I haven't. The locking hubs have three black screws, remove those. Next spray some penetrating oli like wd-40 into the locking hub. Find two screwdrivers or similar sized to fit the gap on each side, between the hub and the cast flywheel, lever it loose outward. Alternatively use pliers to push in wedges, or fabricate a puller (advanced, see my recent tractor video for a home made flywheel puller)
loved the video, although wouldnt it have been easier to just unscrew the tappet screw so it pushes the exhaust valve further all the time instead of gluing the little metal plate to the lever thingy?
Great to hear. I have had issues with my spark dying suddenly and I think 9v is a great idea. The ignition says 6-12v but I based 4.5 on my bad luck using 7.2v rechargable lipos which I suspected blew up one ignition. With your report I'm more confident to raise it :)
Hey, have you had a issue with your ignition. It seems that mine everytime just a little bit of oil gets into the points system i have no spark. Any ideas how to fix this? Because i have to oul the camshaft and pushrod.
Hey Kevin! I'd probably just squirt some carb cleaner aerosol into it. I was looking at mine and could see oil could be a problem but so far hasn't been for me. Start thinking about some kind of oil guard although I accept it's very tight in there. Keep in touch:)
@ThomasPCGuruENGINES For some reason I'm not getting any spark at all even when it's dried off. Looks like I might have to take off the points and see what's actually happening. At first I thought it might be the ignition box, but I tested it with a different ignition and still no spark. So something is not getting good connection.
The instructions sheet is very detailed and includes this info "The main components, including the engine body, flywheel, connecting rod, etc are cast from stainless steel 304 material" I can confirm no rust occurring and drilling out the cam rod hole .2mm extra wrecked my drill just like stainless steel does...very, very well made
Hey man! The instructions you'll receive say standard 95 octane gasoline and add about 1:40 two stroke engine oil. The smart guys out there (not me) use lighter fluid and a few drops of magical Marvel Mystery Oil; they say lighter fluid burns cleaner and the oil sure is a marvel...but we just don't know what's in it: mystery... ...for the amount of running it will get, pump gas is fine; I think they run best on 95 octane
The answer is, kind-of. Wilesco and Bohm both do still, and there are older versions. Both are fairly basic "tin toys" and the prices will make your eyes water. Second hand or build it yourself are better options. Most people find a small used electric motor and go the generator route first. There are better scale generators and water pumps available from EngineDIY and Stirlingkit, Chinese made
My goodness, doesn't that look like a spark. It's not, its the overhead lamp reflecting on the surface of the water when it ripples as the engine fires! Well spotted though...
Thanks for your reply and for letting me know your credentials, which helps. I m unable to give you any advice because you sound much more experienced than me in engineering. If this was your first experience with Stirlingkit it certainly sounds abnormal; also the experience with the engine. But to get this clear, your "standpipe" you mean the exhaust? Chimney? I have not heard "standpipe" before and if I haven't, Mona will have no chance. So, you can't attach your exhaust chimney? These engines always use standard metric M2, M2.5 etc and if the supplied screws don't fit, they may have had a tapping failure in your head. Re-tap. Good luck. Forgive Mona, she's doing her best
That intake sound is so annoying. These Chinese company can't get a hit n miss right. I was hoping this one be great right out of the box. Unlike the horrible Enjomor Hit n miss riddled with issues
You're talking about the intake valve farting noise? Sounds just like my 1 and 3/4 hp Associated hit and miss. I'm curious, describe the sound you're hoping for, better yet, give me a search term I can google to hear it :)
@@ThomasPCGuruENGINES yep that's the sound I'm talking about. I barely have heard the "fart" noise on other hit n miss. There is a suction sound but not as intense
Ahhhh...I will watch out for this@@simplefact4u 🤨I wonder if it is a scale thing, full sized hit and miss running with those solid old valves and springs covered with grease...a lot of mass there. Too much to oscillate in a higher pitched fart as the models do??? But my Associated hit and miss does a deep poppy suck noise
I hope the folks at Enginediy/MUSA watch this video to see how slow the engine should run. Hopefully they take some of your pointers to improve this engine. Great job Thomas!!!!
That's kind of you. But yes, the too-tight valve rod guide and vale rod spring could be easy fixes!
Bonjour Thomas from France,
Being at first a steam passionate (for RC model boats) I just discover by chance your channel with a great pleasure because I also have a collection of Hit & Miss engines (Microcosm and Enjomor) and I have recently seen this MUSA that I will purchase.
I am a very happy and lucky man because I have had various problems with almost all my engines, bought RTR, especially the worst Enjomor and have very skill mechanic friends to help me to repair them.
I appreciate this video (among your others) because it tells me what problems I will have to face when I receive it.
Between you and me, I think it is abnormal to have to work on RTR engines but if I have to, your experience is precious.
Amicalement, Raphaël
Bojour mon ami! I love to get the comments that our community is useful and fun. To your comment, should RTR engine need work? For me, I think the time to optimise is time I enjoy spending and don't want to pay someone else to do!
Best wishes for your hobby experience. Hope we can help! Thomas :)
I have just finally decided to purchase this very engine after looking at several other ones... I am looking forward to building this and getting it up and running. This will be my very first model engine build. Thanks for sharing your videos Thomas... It has really helped convinced me the money on this engine should be worth it. Cheers.
I'm so happy to hear that and anticipating the fun you'll have. The Chinese engines have come so far and they're easy to perfect and worth the money; I mean, they've all got to live too, right? ...Have you had a look at the instruction pdf the link is in the video description. It's VERY thorough and shows pride in the design and construction
@@ThomasPCGuruENGINES Thanks for your reply Thomas... I will check out the pdf whilst I wait for it to come. I am assuming you have had no trouble getting spare parts for this engine? I have seen you picked up piston rings easy enough. Cheers John
Haven't got parts for this yet; but as a MUSA-RETROL build - and based on their obvious pride in their product - I'd assume no problems.
lots of great mods on this. I got my kit assembled and running, now for the tweaks.
And that's why we buy them...well done Henry. Keep in touch regarding your tweaks
Sounds and runs great! I have just got one so this is very helpful. Thankyou :)
Great to hear! Really nice of you to say hi in the comments. Good luck and enjoy!!
Love the step change, still waiting on the rest of my parts to arrive for mine.
Thanks for the support! I'm sorry you're still waiting...I would be pissed, I trust it will be worth the wait
I enjoy watching all your videos as I have many of the same engines as you, my favourite up to now is the large green one as it starts with ease and great to watch, also I have been running all my engines on a 50-1 2 stroke mix perhaps more smoke than the best but I feel it helps to keep the cylinders lubricated, so far so good. Most of them just sit on a shelf look good and run from time to time for a short time trying not to wear out many of the brass parts, also I may have been running with a bit heavier oil on the gears and contact surfaces,perhas a 40 grade. Thanks again keep up the good work.
So nice of you to comment! We sound like we have the same idea with oil. I'm glad you enjoy the vids :) Have you had a look at the instruction pdf the link is in the video description. It's VERY thorough and shows pride in the design and construction
I just assembled the Moussa -1 engine by retro and how do you get the bushings in cast wheels back off once the bushings are tightened down. Thank you
Nice tweaks, will be very helpful for all the owners of this model.
Just an idea for replacement spring at the pushrod. I also noticed that the spring is too strong for its purpose so i took a smaller, weaker spring from a biro. Those springs fit exactly.
Doh! Why didn't I think of that. Did you have to open out the rod guide at the side of the cylinder, or was yours not sticking?
I like how slow you have your engine running Thomas. It is the slowest I have seen any ones run so far. I would get one of these if I could adjust to get it to run as slow but not sure if I have the knowledge to do that.
Thanks for visiting and commenting, welcome! My secret is 1. ignition at top dead center 2. loose governor spring 3. correct step on the governor "detent" lever; but that last one is optional....and of course 4. Plenty of cats. The cats don't help the engine run slow n steady but they help your sanity and serenity when Things Don't Work.
About gluing a piece of brass on the lever...did you have to file the edge down because of the added thickness the brass added? Brass is a bit hard to cut, why not glue on a piece cut out of a soda can? You can cut it with scissors, is very thin, and when/if it wears out just unglue it and replace it.
Mmm good idea Fred. Aluminium is softer. Whatever you got, give it a go
Hi Thomas. Great video! I just got my engine, and before I run it, can you tell me what kind of oil your using in the cylinder oiler to lubricate the cylinder? Thanks for showing the mods you did. I added to the step of the detent. I haven't tried a weaker exhaust valve spring, but the valve rod seems to return fine with the tension of the points, so I didn't put in the valve rod spring. Also, I didn't have to drill out the guide, but I did have to de-bur it. And I also have the ignition timing set just a wee bit past TDC. Thanks again for all the tips!
Sounds perfect!!!!
I recently purchased this retro Moussa -1 engine and I was wondering have you taken the cast wheels off after the bushings have been installed and how to do it. Thank you
I haven't. The locking hubs have three black screws, remove those. Next spray some penetrating oli like wd-40 into the locking hub. Find two screwdrivers or similar sized to fit the gap on each side, between the hub and the cast flywheel, lever it loose outward. Alternatively use pliers to push in wedges, or fabricate a puller (advanced, see my recent tractor video for a home made flywheel puller)
loved the video, although wouldnt it have been easier to just unscrew the tappet screw so it pushes the exhaust valve further all the time instead of gluing the little metal plate to the lever thingy?
Nope, because you'd still get that excess lift as the engine coasted over.
I found out that using one of the tall 9v batteries gives it more consistent spark and I got mine running really good now.
Great to hear. I have had issues with my spark dying suddenly and I think 9v is a great idea. The ignition says 6-12v but I based 4.5 on my bad luck using 7.2v rechargable lipos which I suspected blew up one ignition. With your report I'm more confident to raise it :)
@ThomasPCGuruENGINES I have to make a correction, it's a 6volt not 9 volt that works best one of the tall lantern type 6volts.
Got it thx
Hey, have you had a issue with your ignition. It seems that mine everytime just a little bit of oil gets into the points system i have no spark. Any ideas how to fix this? Because i have to oul the camshaft and pushrod.
Hey Kevin! I'd probably just squirt some carb cleaner aerosol into it. I was looking at mine and could see oil could be a problem but so far hasn't been for me. Start thinking about some kind of oil guard although I accept it's very tight in there. Keep in touch:)
@ThomasPCGuruENGINES Okay thank you, I will try that. I was thinking of making a oil guard aswell . I have some ideas that I might try for that.
@ThomasPCGuruENGINES For some reason I'm not getting any spark at all even when it's dried off. Looks like I might have to take off the points and see what's actually happening. At first I thought it might be the ignition box, but I tested it with a different ignition and still no spark. So something is not getting good connection.
What is the electrode tape for that comes in the kit.
You've go me, I don't even know there was such a thing. Lost in translation? Gimme a timestamp on the video?
Hello, what material is the body/cylinder made of, is it steel or aluminum? Thanks very much. Beautiful model!!
The instructions sheet is very detailed and includes this info
"The main components, including the engine body, flywheel, connecting rod, etc are cast from stainless steel 304 material" I can confirm no rust occurring and drilling out the cam rod hole .2mm extra wrecked my drill just like stainless steel does...very, very well made
@ThomasPCGuruENGINES Thank you very much.
iam waiting for my kit to arrive .what is the best fuel,and oil to use on a retrol hm-01
Hey man! The instructions you'll receive say standard 95 octane gasoline and add about 1:40 two stroke engine oil. The smart guys out there (not me) use lighter fluid and a few drops of magical Marvel Mystery Oil; they say lighter fluid burns cleaner and the oil sure is a marvel...but we just don't know what's in it: mystery...
...for the amount of running it will get, pump gas is fine; I think they run best on 95 octane
Ahh, now it's cat approved, very good!
All my videos are cat approved. Some are chicken approved. Thanks for visiting the comments! And commenting! You're welcome :)
Are there companies that make miniature whirley gig or carnival rides these engines can power? Curious cause I want to get into this hobby.
The answer is, kind-of. Wilesco and Bohm both do still, and there are older versions. Both are fairly basic "tin toys" and the prices will make your eyes water. Second hand or build it yourself are better options. Most people find a small used electric motor and go the generator route first. There are better scale generators and water pumps available from EngineDIY and Stirlingkit, Chinese made
@@ThomasPCGuruENGINES
Thanks. That's a start.
7:28 spark in water jacket ?
My goodness, doesn't that look like a spark. It's not, its the overhead lamp reflecting on the surface of the water when it ripples as the engine fires! Well spotted though...
This is a nice engine, but DO NOT get it from Sterling Kits, their customer service is very bad.
Thanks for your reply and for letting me know your credentials, which helps. I m unable to give you any advice because you sound much more experienced than me in engineering. If this was your first experience with Stirlingkit it certainly sounds abnormal; also the experience with the engine.
But to get this clear, your "standpipe" you mean the exhaust? Chimney? I have not heard "standpipe" before and if I haven't, Mona will have no chance. So, you can't attach your exhaust chimney? These engines always use standard metric M2, M2.5 etc and if the supplied screws don't fit, they may have had a tapping failure in your head. Re-tap. Good luck. Forgive Mona, she's doing her best
Yes. I know it's Chinese. Why have they called the engine the same name as the fuel it needs to run...? 🤣
I try to look past the dumb name... retro + petrol...I get it but I hate it too. Not period for a H&M is it?
That intake sound is so annoying. These Chinese company can't get a hit n miss right. I was hoping this one be great right out of the box. Unlike the horrible Enjomor Hit n miss riddled with issues
You're talking about the intake valve farting noise? Sounds just like my 1 and 3/4 hp Associated hit and miss. I'm curious, describe the sound you're hoping for, better yet, give me a search term I can google to hear it :)
@@ThomasPCGuruENGINES yep that's the sound I'm talking about. I barely have heard the "fart" noise on other hit n miss. There is a suction sound but not as intense
Ahhhh...I will watch out for this@@simplefact4u 🤨I wonder if it is a scale thing, full sized hit and miss running with those solid old valves and springs covered with grease...a lot of mass there. Too much to oscillate in a higher pitched fart as the models do??? But my Associated hit and miss does a deep poppy suck noise
@ThomasPCGuruENGINES maybe it's the carb feature on some of these models and larger ones. Or I have too sensitive of hearing haha