I didn't really see the point in a wort chiller until I actually tried to cool 15L of wort in a sink! :P According to Palmer, removing chill haze also stabilises the beer so it'll keep for longer, another advantage to active chilling!
Not that I can think of. The faster you can chill your wort the better, giving the wort less time exposed to potentially bad critters in the air. Chill fast and pitch the yeast as soon as you can.
@@erichowell4163 it wouldn't really make a difference actually. If you think about it scientifically you're essentially removing energy (heat) from the wort boil. There is an assumption that "hotter water" cools faster but that's not actually true. It will take the same energy to reduce the water from 150C to 149C as it will to cool from 1C to 0C. which is essentially the reverse definition of a calorie. So really what is important is that you have an extremely large surface area throughout the entire wort as that is what will be the largest contributing factor to the exchange of heat between the chiller and the wort.
So if cooling the wort as fast as possible then with a 5 gallon batch and you typically are only boiling 2 1/2 gallons and then after cooling add the remaining water to make your 5 gallons, why not after boiling then add your other 2 1/2 gallons of water say at 70 degrees or so then add the wort chiller to bring it to your pitch temperature?
The biggest issue is where are you going to add the extra water to? If your pot was big enough to hold 5 gallons, then you would be boiling 5 gallons. You definitely don't want to add hot wort to a glass carboy or plastic bucket.
What I am saying Kathryn is 1,boil the 2 1/2 gallon of your wort, 2,after your boil is timed out (finished) add the remaining amount of water to make 5 gallons,3,add chiller to bring temp to 70 degrees and then put this in primary fermenter. Note, I use a 6 gallon kettle to boil my wort.
there's no point using it for the purpose of avoiding contamination, as soon the wort get chill then the bacteria will start to entering the wort because with that chiller you can't close the kettle with lid. any thought?
+kadek sad We notched out the lid so the lid can be left on while running the chiller. Only notch the lid big enough for the copper pipe to fit. Works great at keeping stuff out and still letting you use the chiller.
If let cool passively there will be a temperature window where the bacteria can form colonies and reform the (immediate at first) surrounding to their liking (release toxins that mostly/only they tolerate best. That would be a bit of a head start for bacteria. If you get the wort to the right temperature for yeast quickly and pitch some billions of yeast cells in there, the yeast will have a head start and the bacteria will be on very slow gear or dormant because of the stress from the chemicals yeast is starting to release already (not only ethanol but the coctail as a whole). The word sterilize is wrong in this context of course. For example in mushroom growing hobby or medicine, people learn that even 130 degrees for 30 minutes (isolated environment of course) is only getting you a high sterility class, that would be medically usable, where only endospores of slow growing bacteria and prions remain. Something like 25 kilograys of gamma radiation is used to sterilize syringes inside the plastic bags they are in. - now these are sterile. Open up a (near) sterile cultivation medium petri dish in an average room for a few seconds and stuff starts growing on it afterwards.
Very informative, thanks - did my first ever gallon of wort yesterday and was looking into better/quicker ways to cool it. Thanks. Subscribed.
I was looking exactly for this.
I had a hard time cooling it last time, I see now it was because I lifted the wort chiller out too soon, thanks guys!
Great video. Few stop to explain the details of this.
good job cross threading the faucet fitting
I didn't really see the point in a wort chiller until I actually tried to cool 15L of wort in a sink! :P
According to Palmer, removing chill haze also stabilises the beer so it'll keep for longer, another advantage to active chilling!
beer is the mind chiller
Is there side effect if your wort chill too fast?
Not that I can think of. The faster you can chill your wort the better, giving the wort less time exposed to potentially bad critters in the air. Chill fast and pitch the yeast as soon as you can.
Thank you I have been saying the DMS increases the longer you whirlpool!!
Thanks
is it beter to use steel 430 instead of bronze or brass in pipe conections lake tees or elbons?
What If one added frozen blocks of ice to cool down the wort to assist with the cooling. Sar-Sea.
would it help if you did the ice bath while using the chiller?
I would think so...
Is it unwise to use both a wort chiller and a sink full of ice?
seems like it would be even more effective. The goal is to just chill it as quickly as possible, right?
Does it matter whether the cold water enters from the top or bottom of the coil?
Cold water should enter the top of the coil. That way, the colder water is cooling the hotter wort which is at the top.
@@erichowell4163 it wouldn't really make a difference actually. If you think about it scientifically you're essentially removing energy (heat) from the wort boil. There is an assumption that "hotter water" cools faster but that's not actually true. It will take the same energy to reduce the water from 150C to 149C as it will to cool from 1C to 0C. which is essentially the reverse definition of a calorie. So really what is important is that you have an extremely large surface area throughout the entire wort as that is what will be the largest contributing factor to the exchange of heat between the chiller and the wort.
So if cooling the wort as fast as possible then with a 5 gallon batch and you typically are only boiling 2 1/2 gallons and then after cooling add the remaining water to make your 5 gallons, why not after boiling then add your other 2 1/2 gallons of water say at 70 degrees or so then add the wort chiller to bring it to your pitch temperature?
The biggest issue is where are you going to add the extra water to? If your pot was big enough to hold 5 gallons, then you would be boiling 5 gallons. You definitely don't want to add hot wort to a glass carboy or plastic bucket.
What I am saying Kathryn is 1,boil the 2 1/2 gallon of your wort, 2,after your boil is timed out (finished) add the remaining amount of water to make 5 gallons,3,add chiller to bring temp to 70 degrees and then put this in primary fermenter. Note, I use a 6 gallon kettle to boil my wort.
Yes if the water is boiled before and chilled with the lid on. If not you’re going to contaminate your wort.
there's no point using it for the purpose of avoiding contamination, as soon the wort get chill then the bacteria will start to entering the wort because with that chiller you can't close the kettle with lid. any thought?
+kadek sad We notched out the lid so the lid can be left on while running the chiller. Only notch the lid big enough for the copper pipe to fit. Works great at keeping stuff out and still letting you use the chiller.
The above comment was also meant to be a reply to you.
Come on, it's not THAT sensitive... Unless you're brewing professionally or inside a barn, the wort will probably be fine after 15 min in the open.
no phone support with northern brewer. i guess they are to busy at any rate i dropped them after 20 years and went to more beer
Sorry to hear that. You can always contact our CS crew at brewmaster@northernbrewer.com for quick responses.
@@NorthernBrewerTV you got to be kidding me. more beer has phone support. i have spread the word about you people also.
If let cool passively there will be a temperature window where the bacteria can form colonies and reform the (immediate at first) surrounding to their liking (release toxins that mostly/only they tolerate best. That would be a bit of a head start for bacteria. If you get the wort to the right temperature for yeast quickly and pitch some billions of yeast cells in there, the yeast will have a head start and the bacteria will be on very slow gear or dormant because of the stress from the chemicals yeast is starting to release already (not only ethanol but the coctail as a whole). The word sterilize is wrong in this context of course. For example in mushroom growing hobby or medicine, people learn that even 130 degrees for 30 minutes (isolated environment of course) is only getting you a high sterility class, that would be medically usable, where only endospores of slow growing bacteria and prions remain. Something like 25 kilograys of gamma radiation is used to sterilize syringes inside the plastic bags they are in. - now these are sterile. Open up a (near) sterile cultivation medium petri dish in an average room for a few seconds and stuff starts growing on it afterwards.
Shut up Meg no one cares lol
Clear beer is out! Hazy is in...
That certainly seems to be the case. Though we really do enjoy a classic crisp, clear pale ale or IPA just as much as the haze bombs.
The water bill will be high. You will be able to buy 12 packs of beer with the amount of water you just wasted
Not much more than a long shower.