I've always been intimidated by all-grain brewing but this video makes it look really approachable. Thanks for laying it out so well! Once I get the space for it, I'm definitely going to refer back to this.
I like how they focus this video to the viewer who already brews extract. This is our promotion video from backyard brewer to brewmaster. Great video guys. Thanks for being to the point, and not wasting my time like the other videos on RUclips that are 30 plus minutes long. Subscribed.
To anyone willing to watch this video AT LEAST 3X, they should find most if not all of their questions answered. I've watched several ''whole-grain' brewing videos on ''youtube.com. This one is right at the top - not rushed and with good audible quality.
Hi, i brew an ale but i was moving from California to Nevada and it was fermented for 65 days i bottled last week, don't sure if is gonna get some carbonation, therefore the beer smells great :)
Just started doing partial mash again after an 8 year hiatus. I'm looking to start doing all grain for the 3rd or 4th batch. This is a great video: thanks for producing it.
I'm brewing my first all-grain batch this Saturday (day after tomorrow). I've got all stainless steel kettles and mash tun. Also have quick disconnects and a pump! My brew kettle is 15gal but my mash tun is only 10gal. One of these days, I might upgrade so that I can do 10gal batches.
THANK YOU! Maybe i've been searching incorrectly, but it has been so hard to find a video like this to show step by step what all these words mean (vorlauf, sparge, ect.)
In Russia, we derail grain train into large hydro electric dam during summer month. With army tank we PIT manoeuvre bakers supply truck into same damn after train crashed. Very important not long time to get truck follow train. After one month we launch house boat, invite all friend aboard and drink while swimming until vessel run aground on empty dam bottom. Is very good summer and do every each year. Is best beer yes...
I dont use a hot liquor tank. I just do single infusion mashes. I bought my mash tun like this from Midwest like 8-9 years ago it was only $120. I think they want way to much for something that is just a modified igloo cooler
Why would you want your original gravity to be 1.008 to 1.012? That sounds more like final gravity to me. My typical original gravity is anywhere from 1.040 to 1.070 depending on what style I am making.
Questions: 1) Why does his piece of paper say Strike water temp 174 at 3:29, yet at 3:53 he says to not exceed 168. 2) How much water is in hot liquor tank? 3) How much water is used in mash out?
1. Because transferring water and adding grains tends to drop the water temperature by about 10 degrees. 2. Depends on the size of the batch you're doing. There are sparge calculators online you can check out - insert your grain bill info, mash water, and total size of the brew, and it will tell you how much you need to sparge with. 3. Again, depends on the size of the batch. From the looks of it, he's doing a 10 gal batch and adding one or two galls of near boiling water. Just enough to heat the batch up more. Hope that's helpful.
Matt Parsons I would think that if the goal was to "advertise" easy all grain brewing, BIAB would be the way to go always! Minimal equipment additions, but then again, I don't know that Northern Brewer sells the fancy BIAB bags yet.
question? doesnt the 160 deg water being poured into the mash tun get nasty chemicals released into the mash? i mean its plastic?? please explain why it wouldnt thanks
Love everything you guys do...just started some cider and wine making, looking to get into a simple wheat beer in the future, and will likely use you for at least part of my supplies (have a decent local to keep in business as well)...Ever heard of Scratch Brewing? Its a few of out local guys, no bottles yet, but the have built a beer disney land in the hills of southern illinois....largely using local ingredients and foraged ingredients...check them out NB (no i don't work for them just a major fan)
Never understood why people say “to make sure enzymes are denatured.” Yes the heat will denature them and halt conversion but why would one want to do that? Dextrins for mouthfeel? There are better ways to do that.
I'm new to this so please excuse if this is a stupid question. Why do you need a cooler coil? Is there anything wrong with getting to the boil stage one afternoon, then continuing the next morning when it's cooler?
So which tubing goes in the mash tun and which goes in the hot liquor tank? because the instructions inside says the opposite of how its hooked up on the video? Anyone know?
Hello i have one question. I have 100l fermenter and my equipment is 35l capacity. Can i make 1x35l and after couple hours one more 1x35l and put in same fermenter?
At 4:40, what is the point of destroying the enzymes to halt starch conversion if you're just going to sparge off the wort and start boiling the wort anyway? Why not just do a partial mash with some of the hot liquor, drain and then sparge with fresh water at mash out temperature then head straight to boiling?
excusme I have a question I try to made my own brew sculpture and I ant to use steel 430 insted of steel 304 or 316 which iste avantage or disadvantage of usingthis steel? or is bête to se bronze or brass?
I want ask about outdoor propane burner that is probably Bayou BG14. What is gas consumption per hour at this burner ? I was searching this info but they write only 0-30psi presure but how long the just one bottle of gas?
Very good explication! Visual is good. About the info, i have two questions: -You said "the strike water (174 F) have to be at 10-15 F up of the mash temperature (150F). I don't understand that part, 174-150= 24... Not suppose to be 10-15 up? -How are you determine the mashout and the sparge water for 18lbs grains?. If you want to collect 10G of beer and you have at the beginning 2G evaporation and 5.8G than the mashout and sparge is 4.2G (12 G of water total)?
Bierlee depends on your desired strike temp (initial temp when mashing) you want the strike water to be a little hotter than your desired temp to make up for the fact that the room temp grain and cooler will cool down the water a bit
Your penmanship is *really* close to mine! The 8's and lowercase g's are almost identical to mine. Yours is slightly more legible than mine though. Did you take a lot of notes in college? Any medical training?
amazing video guys, really enlightening on the basics of the process, there is a doubt i do have though and that is, how do you chill the wort once you have boiled in the hops in a 10gal batch. is it it important that it be quick?
+a77ack69 I haven't done a full boil of that size yet, but typically you'd want to have a plate or immersion chiller to bring the temperature down quickly. You do want to do it somewhat quickly as this reduces the chance of infection once the wort is below 170 degrees Farenheit.
The reason why "Never Stop Brewing" is totally true is that equipment can go bad if unused, especially if neglected in storage and exposed to moisture, bacteria, etc. Regularly used, regularly disinfected equipment == happy equipment!
What do you even mean. 40% wash? Whats that. You mean sparging with 4 litrs of water for a 10 liter batch? Or like a 40 plato/balling sMash. Dont know if thats possible but 120 grams of sugar in 1 liter water gives 36 GU. 4 GU is 1 plato so you need 120*(40 plato/9 plato)=533 grams of sugar for a 1 liter batch and a SG of 1.160. I think your yeast is gonna implode of osmotic pressure or something.
Is mashing an oxygen-sensative process? The first time I treid this, I got a lot of off-taste and I think it was because I exposed the mash too much during mashout and sparging. I also poured the strike water into the the mash tun rather than siphon, which could have created more oxygen in my strike water.
Yeast need oxygen. You want to introduce a significant amount of oxygen before you ferment. You run into oxidation problems (off flavors) later in the process after the wort has already been fermented (i.e. transfering fermented wort to a secondary fermenter or bottling bucket).
In the cooler system, unfortunately, there is no cut-and-dry answer. You need enough near-boiling water to raise to the desired temperature - usually around 170F - for mashout. Add a little water at a time, stir well, and keep going until you hit mashout temp. If you end up doing your mashes in a kettle-style mash tun, you can simply add low flame to heat and stir mash gently to heat.
All those units look like an absolute nightmare to work with. As an engineer, it hurts my teeth to see American units used for precision scientific endeavours.
The visuals throughout this video were really helpful in portraying the setup for this home brewery. How well do you think these candles would look in a small home brewery? www.naturesgardencandles.com/index.php?page=seek&id%5Bm%5D=pattern&id%5Bq%5D=beer
As I've experimented through extract, BIAB & tried mashing, even a triple mash, there are certain nuances that arise. The yeast activity of the triple mash was unreal. Mouth feel, look, taste and flavor would all be somewhat different and get more refined as I mashed. Maybe the judges of those ribbons just think your hot. Cheers.
I've always been intimidated by all-grain brewing but this video makes it look really approachable. Thanks for laying it out so well! Once I get the space for it, I'm definitely going to refer back to this.
I like how they focus this video to the viewer who already brews extract. This is our promotion video from backyard brewer to brewmaster. Great video guys. Thanks for being to the point, and not wasting my time like the other videos on RUclips that are 30 plus minutes long. Subscribed.
To anyone willing to watch this video AT LEAST 3X, they should find most if not all of their questions answered. I've watched several ''whole-grain' brewing videos on ''youtube.com. This one is right at the top - not rushed and with good audible quality.
I've been brewing all grain for a while now, and this actually gave me a few ideas and pointers, too. Great video!
The most important thing to remember folks, is to never stop brewing.
Amen.
cheers
well, if you stopped brewing, you'd run out of beer...
Agreed!
Hi, i brew an ale but i was moving from California to Nevada and it was fermented for 65 days i bottled last week, don't sure if is gonna get some carbonation, therefore the beer smells great :)
Just started doing partial mash again after an 8 year hiatus. I'm looking to start doing all grain for the 3rd or 4th batch. This is a great video: thanks for producing it.
Most excellent. Thanks!
Extremely helpful video. I have been waiting for one of these from northern Brewer for awhile. Thanks
I'm brewing my first all-grain batch this Saturday (day after tomorrow). I've got all stainless steel kettles and mash tun. Also have quick disconnects and a pump! My brew kettle is 15gal but my mash tun is only 10gal. One of these days, I might upgrade so that I can do 10gal batches.
Just great!
Cheers from Brazil!
THANK YOU! Maybe i've been searching incorrectly, but it has been so hard to find a video like this to show step by step what all these words mean (vorlauf, sparge, ect.)
In Russia, we derail grain train into large hydro electric dam during summer month. With army tank we PIT manoeuvre bakers supply truck into same damn after train crashed. Very important not long time to get truck follow train. After one month we launch house boat, invite all friend aboard and drink while swimming until vessel run aground on empty dam bottom. Is very good summer and do every each year. Is best beer yes...
Moogy best comment on the internet
Что ты написал? You a Idiot?
Great idea, but doesn't that mean towards the end of Summer you're drinking your own piss?
Dam, that's good beer.
I have never heard such legendary shenanigans. Add this to the bucket list.
Hello, Mr. Segall. Thank you for the tips.
A nice and easy way to get into all grain brewing without having to spend big money on extra pots and burners. Great video!
I dont use a hot liquor tank. I just do single infusion mashes. I bought my mash tun like this from Midwest like 8-9 years ago it was only $120. I think they want way to much for something that is just a modified igloo cooler
give that man a microphone
I watched for 4 seconds and made the same notice
Great Video! Thanks- ready for my first All Grain!
Good How-To video. Cheers!
Good video! Succinct and to-the-point.
LOVE you guys. You guys are the best. This helped so much.
I love that echo-ey feel so many brewing habs because of the solid flooring used in breweries and whatnot haha
As opposed to gaseous or liquid flooring?
Why would you want your original gravity to be 1.008 to 1.012? That sounds more like final gravity to me. My typical original gravity is anywhere from 1.040 to 1.070 depending on what style I am making.
Cool Audio takes
great video
Fantastic video, i love watching them Cheers
Questions:
1) Why does his piece of paper say Strike water temp 174 at 3:29, yet at 3:53 he says to not exceed 168.
2) How much water is in hot liquor tank?
3) How much water is used in mash out?
1. Because transferring water and adding grains tends to drop the water temperature by about 10 degrees.
2. Depends on the size of the batch you're doing. There are sparge calculators online you can check out - insert your grain bill info, mash water, and total size of the brew, and it will tell you how much you need to sparge with.
3. Again, depends on the size of the batch. From the looks of it, he's doing a 10 gal batch and adding one or two galls of near boiling water. Just enough to heat the batch up more.
Hope that's helpful.
I love my FF MT & HLT works great!
What size boil kettle do you use? Do you have the ten gallon coolers?
i do brew in a bag i have a 8.9gal brew kettle now. eventually i will get a couple 15gal coolers and boil kettle and do it the true all grain way lol
Matt Parsons I would think that if the goal was to "advertise" easy all grain brewing, BIAB would be the way to go always! Minimal equipment additions, but then again, I don't know that Northern Brewer sells the fancy BIAB bags yet.
Should you start with extract brewing first or just jump right in with all grain?
Great video.
Awesome video! Thanks for the easy to understand breakdown! Cheers
Does it not require a food grade sealant?
I dont have a O ring? And it seems to be leaking inside the thermacol of cooler.
question? doesnt the 160 deg water being poured into the mash tun get nasty chemicals released into the mash? i mean its plastic?? please explain why it wouldnt thanks
Love this video-- thank you!
Love everything you guys do...just started some cider and wine making, looking to get into a simple wheat beer in the future, and will likely use you for at least part of my supplies (have a decent local to keep in business as well)...Ever heard of Scratch Brewing? Its a few of out local guys, no bottles yet, but the have built a beer disney land in the hills of southern illinois....largely using local ingredients and foraged ingredients...check them out NB (no i don't work for them just a major fan)
awesome video
So the top one doesn't have a false bottom? that's just filled with hot water? the middle one is the one with the false bottom?
Never understood why people say “to make sure enzymes are denatured.” Yes the heat will denature them and halt conversion but why would one want to do that? Dextrins for mouthfeel? There are better ways to do that.
I'm new to this so please excuse if this is a stupid question.
Why do you need a cooler coil? Is there anything wrong with getting to the boil stage one afternoon, then continuing the next morning when it's cooler?
I think the phrase "hot liquor tank" is a misnomer because it holds only hot sparge water (not liquor).
So is there a video for people who have never brewed before?
So which tubing goes in the mash tun and which goes in the hot liquor tank? because the instructions inside says the opposite of how its hooked up on the video? Anyone know?
Hello i have one question. I have 100l fermenter and my equipment is 35l capacity. Can i make 1x35l and after couple hours one more 1x35l and put in same fermenter?
At 4:40, what is the point of destroying the enzymes to halt starch conversion if you're just going to sparge off the wort and start boiling the wort anyway? Why not just do a partial mash with some of the hot liquor, drain and then sparge with fresh water at mash out temperature then head straight to boiling?
excusme I have a question I try to made my own brew sculpture and I ant to use steel 430 insted of steel 304 or 316 which iste avantage or disadvantage of usingthis steel? or is bête to se bronze or brass?
So you can do 10 gallon batches with the fermenters favorite/northern brewer hot liquor tank/mash tun combo?
Just bought this kit. What's with the clamps on the tubing connecting the bulkhead and false bottom?
I want ask about outdoor propane burner that is probably Bayou BG14. What is gas consumption per hour at this burner ? I was searching this info but they write only 0-30psi presure but how long the just one bottle of gas?
I miss Michael Dawson and the gang T.T
+Forrest Culviner word.
Can anyone tell me what the average home brewer would do with 10 gallons . I assume you would keg that because its alot of bottles.
Most brewers would keg this in two five-gallon corny kegs.
Very good explication! Visual is good. About the info, i have two questions:
-You said "the strike water (174 F) have to be at 10-15 F up of the mash temperature (150F). I don't understand that part, 174-150= 24... Not suppose to be 10-15 up?
-How are you determine the mashout and the sparge water for 18lbs grains?. If you want to collect 10G of beer and you have at the beginning 2G evaporation and 5.8G than the mashout and sparge is 4.2G (12 G of water total)?
The grain is cooler than the strike water. When it mixes with the 174F (because it is cooler) the mash temp becomes 150.
Rate in equals rate out. 1 quart per minute. Is there a setting on the valves that indicate this? How do i determine this?
At what temp should the hot liquor be? You just said "warm water". Is that near boiling? 100 deg? Or does it not make that big of a difference?
Bierlee depends on your desired strike temp (initial temp when mashing) you want the strike water to be a little hotter than your desired temp to make up for the fact that the room temp grain and cooler will cool down the water a bit
at 4:17 he says it should be 175.
Your penmanship is *really* close to mine! The 8's and lowercase g's are almost identical to mine. Yours is slightly more legible than mine though.
Did you take a lot of notes in college? Any medical training?
Arent you the guy that helped Andy from How to make everything?
What are those wooden circular structures called that you are using for your tier system?
Old cable reels. You could probably find some for free if you tried hard enough.
amazing video guys, really enlightening on the basics of the process, there is a doubt i do have though and that is, how do you chill the wort once you have boiled in the hops in a 10gal batch. is it
it important that it be quick?
+a77ack69 I haven't done a full boil of that size yet, but typically you'd want to have a plate or immersion chiller to bring the temperature down quickly. You do want to do it somewhat quickly as this reduces the chance of infection once the wort is below 170 degrees Farenheit.
can i get please a link for the part that you coneceted to the false bottom?
How do you determine the volume of (1) the water in the hot liquor tank used for sparging and (2) water added during mash out?
for sparge is typically 1/2 gal per lb. not sure on mash out, i leave about 3 gal in kettle and just add some until temp is reached.
Will a 50’ immersion chiller with whirlpool still struggle to cool 10 gal?
Are those tables the kettles are on?
The reason why "Never Stop Brewing" is totally true is that equipment can go bad if unused, especially if neglected in storage and exposed to moisture, bacteria, etc. Regularly used, regularly disinfected equipment == happy equipment!
I have recently decided to brew a 40% vol wash in a 1 litre bottle how much sugar and yeast would i need ? help appreciated.
What do you even mean. 40% wash? Whats that. You mean sparging with 4 litrs of water for a 10 liter batch? Or like a 40 plato/balling sMash. Dont know if thats possible but 120 grams of sugar in 1 liter water gives 36 GU. 4 GU is 1 plato so you need 120*(40 plato/9 plato)=533 grams of sugar for a 1 liter batch and a SG of 1.160. I think your yeast is gonna implode of osmotic pressure or something.
Is mashing an oxygen-sensative process? The first time I treid this, I got a lot of off-taste and I think it was because I exposed the mash too much during mashout and sparging. I also poured the strike water into the the mash tun rather than siphon, which could have created more oxygen in my strike water.
Yeast need oxygen. You want to introduce a significant amount of oxygen before you ferment. You run into oxidation problems (off flavors) later in the process after the wort has already been fermented (i.e. transfering fermented wort to a secondary fermenter or bottling bucket).
@@kylepyfer Although you are right for the most part, yeast doesn't need oxygen.
How do you know how much water to use for mashout?
In the cooler system, unfortunately, there is no cut-and-dry answer. You need enough near-boiling water to raise to the desired temperature - usually around 170F - for mashout. Add a little water at a time, stir well, and keep going until you hit mashout temp.
If you end up doing your mashes in a kettle-style mash tun, you can simply add low flame to heat and stir mash gently to heat.
@@BrewingTV amazing video and the work that was done i follow you 💯 from 🇨🇦 #YSW have a wonderful Friday morning bye 👋 from #YSW
What is the opinion on the Robobrew 3?
Wow
5 years later, how many of us still doing multi kettle?
Where can you buy grain that you mill at home?
stalionnnnn1 the internet
stalionnnnn1 go to a farmer's market or ask around, or a local cattle feed store if you want bulk. Easiest place would be a brew shop.
You should also show that you need to sanitize every part you will be using to brew your beer. Or else their could be off flavors & create bacteria.
xFaithkeeperx Not yet. That is after you have chilled your wort.
Shit looks hard
Post a video making an M-43 clone & you'll get lots of hits! :-)
i can't understand the adding of water ,you added water twice the water quantity you added is not clear
All those units look like an absolute nightmare to work with. As an engineer, it hurts my teeth to see American units used for precision scientific endeavours.
The visuals throughout this video were really helpful in portraying the setup for this home brewery. How well do you think these candles would look in a small home brewery? www.naturesgardencandles.com/index.php?page=seek&id%5Bm%5D=pattern&id%5Bq%5D=beer
Still confused! :/
Microphone..... looked like it might have been some good info. Had to skip though. Audio is more important than image quality
Too much echo 😢
The audio immediately had me clicking elsewhere.
Way too much work when BIAB wins me ribbons....
Really dont see why anyone still brews this way. Old and outdated.
As I've experimented through extract, BIAB & tried mashing, even a triple mash, there are certain nuances that arise. The yeast activity of the triple mash was unreal. Mouth feel, look, taste and flavor would all be somewhat different and get more refined as I mashed. Maybe the judges of those ribbons just think your hot. Cheers.
Just great!
Cheers from Brazil!