Custom Aluminum Rod Ends
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- I had a Patreon supporter request to machine a pair of custom rod ends. These will used with some of hi camping gear. I show a lot of everyday lathe and mill work including using a corner rounding en mill to machine the radius, and the use of my 6" Vertex simple indexing spacer.
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The world's highest precision tent pole ends 😀
How come every operation that starts with a facing I hear in my head "As is tradition"? Dammit Blondi... stuck in my brain!
And when something is being parted off, "Yahtzee". 😁
Are you really Joe Pie in disguise ? ... 😏😂
@@BedsitBob I swear, if she does a ToT karate chop, I'm going to have a moment...
@@peterfitzpatrick7032 What has Joe Pie got to do with these sayings?
I like the old school hand work “ job shop” machine work ,it’s your core competence Adam, don’t wonder off and leave what your Grandfather and your Father imparted to you. Yes I understand you as a younger fellow wants to learn CNC but not many of us home shop fellows have any interest in production machining , m@king thousands of identical parts as quickly as possible ! How big is that market on your channel Adam?
I am a retired engineer who has done significant engineering work on 5 continents just my two cents
I use WD 40 on aluminum. Works great and is cheaper than tap magic.
Looks like you made a rolling pin before you milled it. Lol
That man did a dang good sketch for what he needed and you made a great looking part
A good sketch is a must) Projects with bad, or no sketch often happen to be put back in the que...
In fall 2012, in graduate school, I wanted to date this lady and invited her to the student machine shop one night where I made almost exactly this pair of parts for her. The parts fixed the touring rack for her bicycle, which had failed on a bike camping trip. She and I ended up together for three years!
(Other than the size, the difference was that instead of the non-rounded end being drilled and tapped, it had a shaft that fit into steel tubing in the surviving part of the touring rack.)
I love the fact you have the wonderful opportunity to be kitting out your new workshop, but seeing you working on pieces using your machines is even better still. Can't wait to see what you do in the new shop.
Hi how are you
Jason,I was just thinking the same thing. It's nice to see Adam back on the machines.
👍 As usual , nicely done ! I get a little envious of the equipment and skills you have . Then again , if you had a pool that turned green , I'm the guy would want to call . 😀
I don't mean to pry. this is something I could do in my shop. Just how would you price this job? Not your rate, how you would figure the 4 operations, for a total amount per piece. Just the time in hours or minutes.
If I machined these parts in my shop with the same slow precise teaching method that Adam uses I would charge about $80. each. If produced in high volume lots of 1000 + on CNC price would drop to $6. or less
An hour minimum labor most likely.
I like Adam always treats parts like they were swiss watches :)
Yes, tent poles using a micrometer :) love it
Neat little project Adam. Great close-ups showing the details. Fun little project.
Thanks for sharing.🙂
Its always a trip to me, to see the part move and the tool stationary...
You are such a good teacher thanks for the education. :o)
I use my "roundover" carbide router bits for turning a radius on aluminum. Carbide woodworking bits of any shape work great on aluminum.
Good trick for us home gamers with only a big box store around for tooling and a tiny budget. I did all my early machining (on Al) with a cheap straight router bit from the Homeless Despot. Invest the extra cash into heavier iron :)
No way the viewer is going to use these. They are going to be labeled and put on show in the man cave!
nice tip on getting the 2 matched chamfers, its the little things that matter :-)
I took note of that as well.
There's always so much to learn and sometimes it's the more simple things like that'll really come in handy.
I have thought about keeping a notebook handy while watching these videos. 😁
Adam, you have become my favorite channel, both of your cannels. You have the best content and absolutely the most interesting. We both love both you an Amy. Thank you so much for sharing. Make more chips and smoke
Hey Adam did you BORROW that end mill from Eric and not return it LOL. Awesome machining as normal thanks for sharing with all of us.
An indexing head certainly makes it MUCH easier in the set up dept.
Looked at the title quickly and thought you were making BBQ burnt ends.
it almost looks like a really nice rolling pin. I guess one man's rolling pin is another's camping gear...
The most OP tent components out there. How to take your Walmart tent from $50 to $500 in one afternoon.
Very nice parts. But one problem. Square shoulder at tang bottom. Bad practice. Should've been milled with a nice radius. Stress riser otherwise. May not be that critical. But better practice.
Oh that Makers Mark at the end was the pièce de résistance!!!
I thought it was cool too.
Was it Lasered or Stamped?
Originals were probably plastic. Good choice on him to get them done with the right material from the right person the right way. 😉👍
A simple project, But good viewing for sure with many different machining process s. Dave Australia
11:20 I thought, oh look an aluminum rolling pin 🤣
You sure do some nice work, it always looks like a robot did it. One of these days you will have to show us some of your mistakes, I doubt there are any.
Nice clean job. Well done! Can't help but visualise Adam doing a similar part using his new CNC. That's going to be a nice transition from old school machining techniques to a whole new world of learning & making. I'm looking forward.
if you ever anodize the aluminum to some color, be sure and show us the process! Keep up the good work.
Where did you get that magnetic dial indicator holder that hooks over the top of the way. My magnetic back don’t hook over the way. Thanks!
Fantastic beginners project! Has a lot of the operations incorporated in it, and doesn't use too much material. Thanks!
I love the ones where you cut metal. You do a great job of showing the chips flying. Thanks.
The corner rounding tool produced an end that is curved in two directions. Seemed to me the drawing only specified a single curve (along the 7/8" dimension, not along the 1/4" dimension). I am sure it does not effect fitness for purpose. But am I right that the part does not conform to the print? How might one make just the single axis curve? (Great lesson, as always. As a hobby machinist I learn from every Abom79 video.)
To make it like you said he could have used that corner rounding tool on the mill and went across both sides with the part standing up
@@rixiv7868 Ahh. Yes. I see what you mean. Nice. I wonder why Adam didn't do it like that.
I see what you mean but the curve is gonna be minimal and putting a flat curve all the way around would have been a pain in the ass.
Superb quality work sir! I notice that you havent actually produced the part that was on the drawing - the drawing has a semi circular end whereas youve produced a domed end, but in my opinion yours looks better and I cant imagine it making any difference.
On the other hand... the drawing omitted the details of the transition from the curved cylinder and the semi circle as they often do. Barring further detailsAdams interpretation is the correct one.
Aluminum rolling pin (for baking) came to mind when you finished radiusing both sides.
billet rolling pin...nice...
I was following up to the point where you were facing the end that received the tapped hole. You said you left around a 1/16 to face off before drilling/tapping the hole. My question is, once you chucked it up to do the face, how did you know how much to remove to get to the 1” mark? With the 6 jaw chuck, there didn’t seem to be enough room to get calipers in to measure the length.
Good question! If you look at about 31:59 in the video you can see that there is some gap. That looks like enough to sneak in the head of a caliper or a hook rule (Adam seems to like hook rules, as do I), or you could simply measure each one before mounting them in the chuck and facing like he did at 27:10. You can see he needs to remove about 0.0565" from one and about 0.083" from the other. If he did it that way he probably got them to within +/- 0.005" or better. What surprised me a little is that Adam reamed the 3/8" through hole.
Try looking at the dial gauge in front of the carriage, when he faces the end he sets the dial to zero
Enjoyed thanks for sharing good job
A whole bunch of women just started looking for a machinist to date
🤦♂️
Thanks so much, Adam. I really appreciate these basic machining technique videos. As a wannabe machinist I stop the video and try to imagine how I would do whatever needs to be done, and then watch how you do it. I would never have thought of making the radius with a mill, but I will in the future. Best wishes from Karin, Bruce and Halgrim in Germany.
Eric called. He wants his round miil back...
Hey Adam do you have a vfd brake setup on this mill or are you using the manual brake? Thanks. And nice job.
If you want a bit more of a challenge I could send you the cast direction reversal handle to my Hendey lathe along with the blueprints.
I loved your method for getting the radius on the end. Thanks
I'm learning so much here, not just technique but also about being methodical, patient and clean as you work. Less haste more speed everytime Adam. Brill!
Nice, meticulous work with fairly simple equipment, but dialed in cutting tools. Attention to detail, good focus throughout, calm, deft. It Works!
Hey Adam. I've got a part that I 3d printed for my motorcycle. It's basically a threaded bushing/ adapter to screw into the handle bar end and accept a blinker.
I could send a fusion 360 file, a demo 3d printed object that I know fit. And pictures of application. If that would be interesting for you to do.
I could watch this all day
Nice video Adam. I would appreciate a little more discussion on order of operations when you do a project like this in the future. I'm sure there are many ways to approach the machining of a part, and hearing your thoughts on how to tackle a project is very educational. Thanks
Client's plan was surprinsingly well detailed. Was looking for mistakes and i couldnt find any. 👌👌
Could have used tolerances noted, though the use of fractional measurements generally implies "wood working tolerances" (with Adam proudly targeting aerospace tolerances no matter what's specified)
I am always amazed at your manual machining skills. I wish I knew half of what you know. I'm a CNC vertical lathe machinist.
Nice job Adam they look great👍 And thankx for teaching me🙂
Enjoyed watching how you did this. Very clever indeed. Great job Adam.
As always, awesome. I've learned so much from your channel. Keep up the awesome work!
31:12 On the front of the can, it says nontoxic, but on the side, there is a chestsplosion pictogram. Huh?
Great video. I would have toe clamped, cut my flats on both ends , drilled and reamed and then rotated 180 and milled my other 2 flats. Just me though.
Lots of us don't own a Spindexer...
So, yeah, clamp her down in V-blocks with strap clamps, mill the one side at both ends, the loosen, rotate 180 using a 1-2-3 block, gauge blocks, or a parallel to set the flat face parallel to the table, clamp her down again, and finish off the opposite side.
Thanks for the alternative workflow idea. Would you use the flats to index the 180, say with some parallels?
I would have clamped to the table slots and milled and reamed. Then used my reamer or a dial pin to line up on the holes and milled my other 2 flats.
Scotchbrite wheels are the bomb Abom!
nice touch adding your stamp...thought this was being cnc'd for a second like go ahead now maain!!
Thanks for making these parts for the viewers. Always enjoy these videos
Hey Adam - Thank you for many hours of fine videos and introducing me to machining and what I may do with my lathe. Dudley Toolwright made a surprising point about tightening a six jaw with multiple pinions. Very much worth watching.
I'm very intersted in your comment.
Could you share a link to the video you're referencing or give me more info on how to find it?
Thanks Sir.
@@glenj.taylor2938 Just do a RUclips search for Dudley Toolwright - either of his two latest videos
Nice vid as always Adam :) That project would have been a realy nice training part for your new CNC machine :)
When I saw the first photo of these parts on FB, I thought "Ah, first project on the CNC".
I've followed you ever since the Practical Machinist days! Just one thing, you show a lot of expensive options, in this case, the humble collet block would have been just as good and more affordable for the "home machinist"! Cheers, Matthew
I use collet blocks on my haas cnc machines, it makes it super simple to keep multiple ops clocked in, just move it down a vice crank out parts all day with no tedious indicating.
I don’t think Adam’s channel was ever intended to be what the “home machinist” could afford. He’s a professional machinist with a professional shop. You use the tooling you have.
His stock was 1.5" diameter. The "humble collet block" (most humble with 5C collets) has a max capacity of 1-1/8" (1.125"). But yeah, if he had some 1" stock a collet block would be much faster and HSMers are more likely to have one. Or even turn the necessary length of 1.5" stock down to 15/16" (as per the drawing) before.
There are other tricks for the HSM (or anyone really)
1. Use a parallel clamp or V-block clamped to the stock as a temporary reference, align the reference to the table with a square while clamping the work in a vise. Mill one flat. Rotate the work 180 align with square again, mill second flat.
2. Mill a 'referrence notch' somewhere in the middle of the stock. Clamp it in the vise with a square piece of stock in the notch. Mill your flat on the end. Rotate the work 180 and mill the second flat.
3. I can think of at least three more ways to do this that would be in the HSM range of capabilities. I think my first choice would be #2 though as it will also work with tougher materials and one can choke up on the work close to the vise for rigidity... HSM mills tending to be somewhat limber.
@@grntitan1 Adam frequently talks about showing people how to do things.
@@MatthewTinker-au-pont-blanc Showing someone “how to” do something the right way isn’t the same as showing someone how to do something with tools you may have at home.
Love to watch you makin chips. You are so talented. Thanks.
Adam, i have a question about lubrication, how does it work? You put it on the bar stock, but the cutter never touches the lubrication, the edge is "inside"the metal when cutting.
Yet, all machinists do it so it must have some advantages, but how?
The lubrication gets into the cuts, even if it do not look like it. Lubrication gets all over the place. Cools, longer tool life on hard materials, and nicer surface finish. Not used in all cases, but a lot
3rd 👋🏻
ABSOLUTELY BEAUTIFUL JOB ‼️‼️ Vinny 🇺🇸
Nice job Adam did they work out?
Look's like a rolling pin.
nice little project
I'm no ME but I would think they would want an inside radius on each of those half-moon sides (transitioning to vertical post), to avoid that becoming a fracture point.
Thats correct. If this was a part seeing quite som load and dynamic stress, aircraft, motorbike and so on, cracking in these corners could be an issue. There is a small radius on the tool, maybe like 0.4 mm, but not much to talk about. In this case it's just for some camping gear, light use highly likely)
Agree. If this is just a 1:1 replacement of the original part, I wouldn't be surprised if the originals failed from cracking in the sharp corner. Judging by how beefy that part is, either it is highly stressed, or the engineer decided his salary was more expensive than the materials XD.
@@2testtest2 My guess is the original parts were plastic, and these aluminium replacements will last 'forever'
@@Rimrock300 I was thinking the same.
Nice Job !!
You know if you had stopped when both ends were done and rounded in the lathe you would have had a great pastry rolling pin! Thanks for going over the use of the tools as usual! I am using my shop more and more as my very old farm equipment gives up the ghost and needs this part or that. My daily use tractor is almost 50 years old and my bulldozer almost 80 this year! No one sells parts for them anymore so I’m on my own to make most things. Your videos help me keep my farm moving! My next purchase is a DRO for my 48: bed lathe. With farm stuff I rarely turn longer than 30” but it’s nice to have it if I need it. Can you recommend an ‘affordable’ but accurate XYZ DRO?
Hi Abom, I am enjoying your videos from Germany. Great job! Love them! I am learning a lot
I have one question though. At the end after cutting the bar in order to drill and tap on the lathe I would have expected you to use some soft jaws on the lathe. Don’t you scratch the soft Al parts by using regular jaws? Thanks!
I can't speak for Adam but note the 6-jaw vs 3-jaw chuck. These are often higher precision, have more points of contact, and jaw radius exact match to the work-piece is less a thing for a good grip. Thin walled parts are less distorted, too. btw, With ANY work-piece (polymers, alum, 'yellow' metals) or so-so 3/4 jaw (like my imports) powdered rosin dusted/brushed onto clean jaws & parts can enhance grip with less risk of crushing or slipping. (Don't machine 'dry') Cheers!
@@johncmitchell4941 thanks for your answer !
Just aquiered a vertex rotary table. impressive quality
All the chips you make are mixed metals. How does recycling sepeate these metals? What value is the metal by the ton you get paid for it?
Ever heard of magnets?
I think Adam just takes them to the recycle center and lets them deal with it. Any good metal recycling facility will use Magnets and Eddy Current separators.
@@johncoops6897 what about separating brass,bronze and aluminum?
@@jerrydemas2020 - the recycling people know how to separate different metals, if they want to. It's not feasible for a machine shop to stop and 100% clean each machine after every job then to collect perfectly sorted scrap material. The make their $$ money from the parts that they produce, not the scrap chips they remove.
Thanks for the video,, just wondering ,,, Do you stamp your small parts with your Logo ?
Nice trick on the rounding end mill in the lathe!
YES!!! :)
👍👍👍👍👏👏👏👏Hope you're having a great weekend Adam, thanks for sharing. Take care
To minimize chatter on alum I mix graphite with lube in equal ammounts.
It worked for me....😎
love these videos Thanks Adam
Some fine, fiddly work compared to most of the industrial stuff you do there, Mr Bom79.
Can see why you like that registering clamp. So easy to set to xx degrees.
Saw you reaching up top cause you're use to the bigger machine and 4-jaw. ;-) Killer vid, as usual.
Hey Adam do you have a vfd brake setup on this mill or are you using the manual brake? Thanks. And nice job.
Always interesting to see a complete project.
Curious why Adam didn't just part the pieces off with a parting tool instead of using the band saw.
He often uses different tools just to demonstrate to us viewers that there are various ways of doing things.
Sometimes it takes even longer to do it the way he shows but I appreciate that he does that for us.
Bandsaws are cheaper to run than parting tools. If you loose a tooth or two on a bandsaw blade, no big deal, but parting inserts and blades are expensive for jobbing shops.
@@rustyanvil51 I'm not on the same page with you. I don't see how using the band saw was "cheaper". From everything I've seen, the savings in time and power and the fact that they can be sharpened when they become worn, sorry, not seeing it.
I find Glen's "content demo" idea far more likely.
@@BigRalphSmith More likely, the band saw is used because Hydmech is a sponsor.
Anytime a cheaper tooling or machine can used, it saves money by reducing ware on more expensive tooling or machine.
Thanks Adam. Another good video.
little boiling in deionized water to anodize them
Nice habit taking that chuck key out of that spacer LOL. Always helps to be consistent!
Leaving the Chuck Key in Lathe or Drill Chuck Is a almost criminal offence in every workshop I have worked in. The rule is the Key only leaves your hand, when returning it to the holder. When I first started my apprenticeship (1959) I was barked at a few times while I just temporarily took my hand off it to do something else on the lathe or drill. And yes I have had my near misses.
@@mikestanley8605 Learned that lesson in HS metal shop! Was standing next to a guy working on the lathe and he left the key in the chuck. Hit the "go" button and WHAM! Drove the key into the way hard! Shop teacher gave him hell about it ...
How much would a job like this cost?
I can see these parts flying off of the new CNC machine as aftermarket replacement parts for something that appears to be load bearing and somewhat unavailable.
Just what I was thinking.
With no live tools and no sub spindle, there's barely any time saving from switching to his CNC lathe. It would be good for making blanks with the correct ball end radius, I suppose.
nice work , it sounded like you had a Cold.
Adam, I really enjoy watching the process you go through in setting up a job and the actual machining. Thanks for bringing us along.
Thanks for sharing! No Abom stamp?
Adam shows a shot at the end with his stamp 😃
ever made a picatinny rail before? i wonder what type of crazy tooling you would need for that type of slot cutting and whatnot
I had to look it up. Doesn't seem too difficult. Lots of standard cuts. The bevels are 45s. So nothing special.
@@firesurfer Yep, the Picatinny Arsenal designed them to be easy to make with an ordinary Bridgeport mill, so that the rails could be sourced anywhere in the world at need.
Their even faster to make using a horizontal mill with ganged cutters...
you make those in notime with standard tooling :)
An end mill..
Why bother when you can simply buy STANAG 2324/MIL-STD 1913 Picatinny rail stock then cut to desired length and drill for mounts as needed? For less money and time than it takes to make it from rectangular cross section stock.
Nice Job. 👍
I noticed on the drawing which the customer supplied to you, that the dimensions did not include tolerances. When you have a dimension given in fractions of an inch...not in decimals....what kind of tolerance do you work to??
For fractions of an inch, the accepted tolerance is usually plus or minus .015 thousands, unless otherwise specified.
Around here, 1/64 (or 0.015) would be implied. Can't speak for every shop though. Abom's going way tighter than that, obviously (even reaming that 3/8 hole).
Every shop I've worked at is +/- 1/32 on fractional dimensions.
With that being said, I still shoot to hit the tolerance as close as possible so I never personally treat that any different than other features
Nice one
Keep the good job up
I need 10 of them, just like that !!
I would suggest contacting Mr. Booth.
What are they for?
@@glenj.taylor2938 i use fittings like that for mounting ham/cb radio gear, using different length shafts between those type mounts, the last 10 i had made cost me 200 from the local shop here !!