What a great voice and manner of delivery. You remind me of a TV dad. I could listen to you talk about nothing, and would follow your soothing tone into an ambush of our own demise. Thanks for sharing the video and showing your thought process through the various stages of the dilemma.
I had to loosen the rack and pinion, slide it up, and the shaft came right out the front. I needed new ball joints, and bushings on the front end anyways so removing the front gearbox was less work than you’d think. Took me about 2 hours to remove the shaft. Including beer breaks, and shewing off a very persistent Labrador retriever that liked my coozie.
Just did mine this past weekend after watching your video. I think you are onto something...seemed much easier to remove the diff and pull it out the front than all the dicking around trying to remove from the rear....way less cussing lol
I removed the clutch cover and the clutch and slid the rear axle out the back left right by the shock came out better than having take all the front end apart
First time I removed my prop shaft I cut out the bottom plate. Then welded it back in after. I have to pull it again to replace cross and yoke. These are a pain in the butt to pull out for sure.
I don't know why people giving you a hard time. This is exactly how the prop shaft comes out according to my shop manual. Gotta take the front gear case out and pull the shaft out the front
So did just replacing the slip yolk take up all the play? Mine is sloppy and the rear transmission shaft is $250 with out bearings and seals. It also requires some special tool and splitting and dissembling the entire trans. (2012 Ranger 500_
Howdy! The U-joints are Moog 338. The splined end is a: 3235501 - YOKE-SLIP. What I'll say is that you need to be very careful with the ball joint press. I used a typical chinesium C-clamp style press. The yokes on both ends of the shaft are kinda flimsy and if they bend in at all, you will blow out the center of the u-joint cap and send it rocketing into oblivion because there won't be enough room to install the c-clip. I junked two u-joints while fixing it. (Luckily, they are very common and the local auto parts store had them in stock.) And I was able to bend out the yokes in my vice. Good luck!
Was there no grease packed into that slip yoke that went onto the spline? I remember reading that it should be repacked with high pressure grease. Or was I dreaming? Lol. Thanks Aaron.
Yup. I saw the previous owner when I was in the middle of that faff. He hadn't realized there was a zerk on the yoke so it was never greased. It's better with the new ujoints, but I'll finish the video when we get home and I can swap to the new yoke. Thanks!
All you had to was to pull off skid plate,knock pin out, push shaft backwards, pull shaft forward off of transmission, and then take the shift cable off and pull the complete shaft out of right side rear. Takes about 45 minutes on a bad day. You did waaaayyy too much work.
I just pulled mine right out of the top side rear. Unbolt front diff, pull front axles, remove front roll pin, slide front diff forward enough for the rear yolk to drop off the shaft and it pulled right out.
Авто/Мото
What a great voice and manner of delivery. You remind me of a TV dad. I could listen to you talk about nothing, and would follow your soothing tone into an ambush of our own demise. Thanks for sharing the video and showing your thought process through the various stages of the dilemma.
Wow, thank you!
I had to loosen the rack and pinion, slide it up, and the shaft came right out the front. I needed new ball joints, and bushings on the front end anyways so removing the front gearbox was less work than you’d think. Took me about 2 hours to remove the shaft. Including beer breaks, and shewing off a very persistent Labrador retriever that liked my coozie.
Just did mine this past weekend after watching your video. I think you are onto something...seemed much easier to remove the diff and pull it out the front than all the dicking around trying to remove from the rear....way less cussing lol
I removed the clutch cover and the clutch and slid the rear axle out the back left right by the shock came out better than having take all the front end apart
First time I removed my prop shaft I cut out the bottom plate. Then welded it back in after.
I have to pull it again to replace cross and yoke. These are a pain in the butt to pull out for sure.
Thanks for posting
I don't know why people giving you a hard time. This is exactly how the prop shaft comes out according to my shop manual. Gotta take the front gear case out and pull the shaft out the front
Yes pull front diff and pull straight out
So did just replacing the slip yolk take up all the play? Mine is sloppy and the rear transmission shaft is $250 with out bearings and seals. It also requires some special tool and splitting and dissembling the entire trans. (2012 Ranger 500_
Prop shaft comes out right rear. You made it really hard on yourself. Even the shop manual tells you this.
Thanks Kevin!
Is that passenger side rear?
Changing out alternator belt
Can you post the part-numbers of what you ordered? I have the same model and getting ready to do the same exact thing.
Howdy! The U-joints are Moog 338. The splined end is a: 3235501 - YOKE-SLIP. What I'll say is that you need to be very careful with the ball joint press. I used a typical chinesium C-clamp style press. The yokes on both ends of the shaft are kinda flimsy and if they bend in at all, you will blow out the center of the u-joint cap and send it rocketing into oblivion because there won't be enough room to install the c-clip. I junked two u-joints while fixing it. (Luckily, they are very common and the local auto parts store had them in stock.) And I was able to bend out the yokes in my vice. Good luck!
@@aaronsrose Thanks
What diesel came with your rig..?
Was there no grease packed into that slip yoke that went onto the spline? I remember reading that it should be repacked with high pressure grease. Or was I dreaming? Lol. Thanks Aaron.
Yup. I saw the previous owner when I was in the middle of that faff. He hadn't realized there was a zerk on the yoke so it was never greased. It's better with the new ujoints, but I'll finish the video when we get home and I can swap to the new yoke. Thanks!
About the way I did it
Cut the back cross member out at the back of the driveshaft and then just weld t back in place,much easier
No need to do this
All you had to was to pull off skid plate,knock pin out, push shaft backwards, pull shaft forward off of transmission, and then take the shift cable off and pull the complete shaft out of right side rear. Takes about 45 minutes on a bad day. You did waaaayyy too much work.
How does that driveshaft come out of the right rear? There is no Room to get it to slide underneath the engine
@@bobtompkins825 with skid plate removed be room then?
You're amazing Thomas (sarcasm)
@@iveneverdonethisbefore8390 start a fan club for Thomas.. yes..you can be the first one to get the the thomas amazing sugar cookie
I just pulled mine right out of the top side rear. Unbolt front diff, pull front axles, remove front roll pin, slide front diff forward enough for the rear yolk to drop off the shaft and it pulled right out.