This video has the exact information I needed. I just put my vortec heads on my engine with screw in studs to discover that the pushrods didn't reach by nearly a half inch. Thanks for the great info
If you use the studs that don't have a shank. The studs that basically replace a stock press in stud that pulled out. You don't need to mill the bosses. You just have to pull the press in stock studs and thread the holes,screw in the threaded stock type stud. If you're worried about the stock studs pulling out. You can also just leave them in. Drill a small hole through the boss and the stock studs and pin them in using roll pins.
Great video thanks you saved me the trouble you had i had concerns about that and almost assembled it anyway due to lack of info i ran across this video and it confirmed my concern thanks you saved me a shitload of time
Thanks for the info. I might add you can also mill down enough for guild plates while you are doing it. Then you have the option of the non self aligning rockers. If you don't want the guide plates, add a head bolt washer as a spacer to bring the stud back where it would be. I believe the self centering tap is a starter tap. Just putting it there, not trying to be negative.
Nice video. Well done. I just wanted to chime in on the small radius you had to chamfer for on the bottom of the hex head. ARP's fasteners are rolled, not turned, which hardens them as well as makes them much more uniform. The radius is there to relieve a stress riser that would otherwise be the weak point in the stud. Keep up the good work! Thanks for posting.
Set a sine plate on 11 1/2 degrees. Tilt the head of your mill to about 11 degrees. Put indicator in the spindle. Mount sine plate square on mill table. Sweep the sine plate with indicator to get the head on 11 1/2 degrees. Clamp heads flat and square on table. The rest is easy.
If you have the tooling, there are for sure much better ways to jig up than a stack of shims and eyeballing it.... I did debate on tipping the mill head, but opted for shiming my head up due to a .010 walk in worn out mill bed.
I understand. I wasn't trying to criticize your work. Just giving my 2 cents worth. You have to work with what you have. I have a suburban sine plate but it's not big enough to bolt the head to. That's why I tilted the head.
good info thank you. wondering if you wouldnt have to machine down the guide or put a chamfer if you were using the threaded studs without a hex flange... ive seen some just a straight stud with threads on both ends
if they are straight threaded studs with no base, and you have proper clearance for your rocker, you likely would not need to machine it... my worry with that type of stud is if you don't use thread lock on it, it could thread out... they also could not be used to retain a push rod guide plate... but for sure they are an upgrade from the push in studs that were stock.
Vortec heads have a different bolt pattern for the intake manifold than the late 80s to mid 90s TBI intake did... and the TBI intake had the same bolt pattern as the early carb manifolds, except the center bolts by the exhaust cross over stood upright, rather than sitting at the 45 degree angle to match the head.... short answer, no, the vortec head is all on own... I am not sure if the early LS head and the vortec head share the same bolt pattern or not... I have not had a LS engine apart yet to see... Thanks for the question.
I cut my guide bosses down with a angle grinder worked well for me didn’t buy no tool or anything there all leveled atleast the screw in studs seem like it but I did buy the tool for the valve seals
This video has the exact information I needed. I just put my vortec heads on my engine with screw in studs to discover that the pushrods didn't reach by nearly a half inch. Thanks for the great info
If you use the studs that don't have a shank. The studs that basically replace a stock press in stud that pulled out. You don't need to mill the bosses. You just have to pull the press in stock studs and thread the holes,screw in the threaded stock type stud. If you're worried about the stock studs pulling out. You can also just leave them in. Drill a small hole through the boss and the stock studs and pin them in using roll pins.
Great video thanks you saved me the trouble you had i had concerns about that and almost assembled it anyway due to lack of info i ran across this video and it confirmed my concern thanks you saved me a shitload of time
Thanks for the info. I might add you can also mill down enough for guild plates while you are doing it. Then you have the option
of the non self aligning rockers. If you don't want the guide plates, add a head bolt washer as a spacer to bring the stud back
where it would be. I believe the self centering tap is a starter tap. Just putting it there, not trying to be negative.
You are welcome. Glad to help.
Nice video. Well done. I just wanted to chime in on the small radius you had to chamfer for on the bottom of the hex head. ARP's fasteners are rolled, not turned, which hardens them as well as makes them much more uniform. The radius is there to relieve a stress riser that would otherwise be the weak point in the stud. Keep up the good work! Thanks for posting.
Exactly, just like a fillet on a crank journal.
Thanks for the vid!
Nice video. Do you have a link for that centering tap?
Set a sine plate on 11 1/2 degrees. Tilt the head of your mill to about 11 degrees. Put indicator in the spindle. Mount sine plate square on mill table. Sweep the sine plate with indicator to get the head on 11 1/2 degrees. Clamp heads flat and square on table. The rest is easy.
If you have the tooling, there are for sure much better ways to jig up than a stack of shims and eyeballing it.... I did debate on tipping the mill head, but opted for shiming my head up due to a .010 walk in worn out mill bed.
thanks
I understand. I wasn't trying to criticize your work. Just giving my 2 cents worth. You have to work with what you have. I have a suburban sine plate but it's not big enough to bolt the head to. That's why I tilted the head.
good info thank you. wondering if you wouldnt have to machine down the guide or put a chamfer if you were using the threaded studs without a hex flange... ive seen some just a straight stud with threads on both ends
if they are straight threaded studs with no base, and you have proper clearance for your rocker, you likely would not need to machine it... my worry with that type of stud is if you don't use thread lock on it, it could thread out... they also could not be used to retain a push rod guide plate... but for sure they are an upgrade from the push in studs that were stock.
oh okay yeah i see how the guideplate would need it. and yeah the head would help from spinning out... thank you
Good video. Cuestión. I can put my old intake rpm in vortec heads??? Thanks.
Vortec heads have a different bolt pattern for the intake manifold than the late 80s to mid 90s TBI intake did... and the TBI intake had the same bolt pattern as the early carb manifolds, except the center bolts by the exhaust cross over stood upright, rather than sitting at the 45 degree angle to match the head.... short answer, no, the vortec head is all on own... I am not sure if the early LS head and the vortec head share the same bolt pattern or not... I have not had a LS engine apart yet to see...
Thanks for the question.
@@galenkoeckeritz8488 thanks for answer.
If it's the eldebrock performer then yes u can use that intake for the 906 062 vtec heads
@@dewaynebraley2820 ok thank you. Very much.
Or you could just have a machine shop do it on the correct machine a Seat and guide machine
it isnt necessary for this application but thanks
Not a comment I thought I'd ever read from @Myvintageiron7512 Dissapointing.
You had to machine them because you bought the wrong studs... They do make them without the hex head...
When the studs that you are referring to break they break flush with the boss. These will break above the six sided part making the replacement easy.
I cut my guide bosses down with a angle grinder worked well for me didn’t buy no tool or anything there all leveled atleast the screw in studs seem like it but I did buy the tool for the valve seals