According to the Comp Cams video they used no oil during the cutting process. Also with the head being angled using a drill press would be difficult because the drill press table does not tilt.
With all of modern tools today I didn’t know. I use to work in an industrial machine shop 20 years ago and things change. Thanks for getting back to me about it. I learn something every time I watch your videos.
I would use LS6 beehive springs which fit unmodified heads and never cut away that much support for the valve, those guides will be done in no time. My 2c.
That is what my local machine shop said. They refused to cut the valve guides down. Said he could crack. But even with beehive springs you won’t get but .530” lift. Most cams are .550” or better.
@@deviantrebel6326 They most likely are talking about Small Block Chevy heads like a 305, 327 or 350. LS6 springs come on stock heads, so do LS2, GM doesn't do any special machining on them and they will fit any stock Gen3 & 4 heads unmodified to just over .550" lift, with Comp retainers and locks they will go to over .600" lift with stock heads. PAC 1218 springs are also good. I set the heads up often with just those parts and my favorite cam that I put in all my engines is the Texas Speed Stage 2 Truck cam or the Sloppy Mechanics Stage 1 cam, they are .550" and .560" respectively and I've never had a problem, there might even be a little more there room there. Never touch the guides or bosses, they are fine but it sounds like your machine shop needs a lesson on parts combinations.
Why not just change the springs to beehive style ls 3 or 6 springs and save yourselfe the trouble of cutting the bottom ,by changing the retainers to a set with less lower protrusion ?? That will provide enough space to run up to 580 lift ??the studs will hold that .or pin them ,way esier ,,oil them threads man !!!use some heat !!and a drill press and make an angle jig to hold the head ,,those poor guide holes !!
With a little hard work and dedication, this man took the best flowing small block head and made a boat anchor out of them. I've ran 0.550" lift cam and only needed to take the valve guides down 0.085". There's also no reason to cut the stud bosses down. I just hope Sling Blade here goes back to lawn mowers and quits fucking up decent forced heads!
@@donkedik7793 I’m doing the same a set if vortec 906 head’s I thought you only needed to cut stud bosses down when adding guide plates? I may be wrong since I’m still Learning on these heads and that’s why I’m here! I’m doing LS6 blue valve springs comp cams 787-16 retainer’s and not sure if I want to use my +.50 offset keepers are just cut my spring Bosses down to get me there but may be wrong.. I know I’m going to run scorpion narrow body self - aligning roller rockers, going with a 26H cam with 600 carb
@@cdpperformance2613 you'll have plenty of clearance for that cam using LS6 springs as long as you stay with 1.5 ratio ratio rocker arms. If you go to 1.6 rocker arms, your total lift will be .484". In that case, I'd recommend trimming the valve guide. You'd only need to trim them about .030" to .050" at the most.
@@donkedik7793 thanks for the info I got a set of scorpion 1.5 narrow body self - aligning roller rockers coming.. wow didn’t know there was this Many to pick from! Lol and the cost it’s crazy
You cut too much off of the guide, got to leave enough of the guide boss because the bottom of it is used as a spring locator without it the spring will walk around.. These heads are basically ruined.
Learning all the time here , valve seals are quite a modern fitment really ,i remember old garage work no seals on many , new carbon deposits are harder these days and can score bores to my horror , better with seals !!
I'm not real smart but shoulda probably cut new threads in the first hole first!!! If you yank both studs at the same time I hope you can pretend real good where them studs belong in relation to the guide. Oh yeah dry fucking these parts is always the way to go. Hmmm the drill is melting in his hand. Always a sure sign things are going properly lol!!!
You would have an easier time if you used some oil for the cutter and stud hardware and please use an impact socket on an impact gun. Chrome sockets will shatter and send shrapnel everywhere.
Cool tools.That guide cutter might be a little happier with some lube on it.
He said.
Drill itself is too fast for that cutter
Always lube the guide when using an arbor, without oil it significantly wears and can gaul the guide. JD
YEAH MAN!!!! I was watching this and about halfway through went AAAAAAANNNNNNDDDDD he burnt it up!
Oil on cutting and heat on stud removal???????
Good job. I don’t know what the instructions are with the cutting tool but would some type of cutting oil help it perform better. Thanks for sharing.
Fire9986 7834 : I was just thinking the same thing, and maybe a drill press . Come on Scott
According to the Comp Cams video they used no oil during the cutting process. Also with the head being angled using a drill press would be difficult because the drill press table does not tilt.
With all of modern tools today I didn’t know. I use to work in an industrial machine shop 20 years ago and things change. Thanks for getting back to me about it. I learn something every time I watch your videos.
@@delrayjyd9676 The tool MUST be turned much slower with more pressure. A drill press or mill is required, unless you're Hercules.
Need way more pressure less speed and some lube you destroyed that cutter with one valve guide 😢
I would use LS6 beehive springs which fit unmodified heads and never cut away that much support for the valve, those guides will be done in no time. My 2c.
That is what my local machine shop said. They refused to cut the valve guides down. Said he could crack. But even with beehive springs you won’t get but .530” lift. Most cams are .550” or better.
@@deviantrebel6326 They most likely are talking about Small Block Chevy heads like a 305, 327 or 350. LS6 springs come on stock heads, so do LS2, GM doesn't do any special machining on them and they will fit any stock Gen3 & 4 heads unmodified to just over .550" lift, with Comp retainers and locks they will go to over .600" lift with stock heads. PAC 1218 springs are also good. I set the heads up often with just those parts and my favorite cam that I put in all my engines is the Texas Speed Stage 2 Truck cam or the Sloppy Mechanics Stage 1 cam, they are .550" and .560" respectively and I've never had a problem, there might even be a little more there room there. Never touch the guides or bosses, they are fine but it sounds like your machine shop needs a lesson on parts combinations.
Why not just change the springs to beehive style ls 3 or 6 springs and save yourselfe the trouble of cutting the bottom ,by changing the retainers to a set with less lower protrusion ?? That will provide enough space to run up to 580 lift ??the studs will hold that .or pin them ,way esier ,,oil them threads man !!!use some heat !!and a drill press and make an angle jig to hold the head ,,those poor guide holes !!
Shouldn’t you cut the threads for the first stud, before removing the second, as second stud is used as guide for the first threaded stud?
The tool comes with a dowel that inserts in the hole to guide the threads on the next hole. I will be posting another video showing this.
You got to cut down the stud boss to get the screw in stud to be in the same area the press in stud was before you start threading the bosses
@@79tazman not if you use non-shouldered or non hex headed studs
@@delrayjyd9676 can you tell me what #’s you used on each cutter? I purchased the pan for .530 with #11 arbor but think I need another also
Updated title- “How to completely destroy a Vortec head in under 13 minutes”
Lmfao 🤣
With a little hard work and dedication, this man took the best flowing small block head and made a boat anchor out of them.
I've ran 0.550" lift cam and only needed to take the valve guides down 0.085". There's also no reason to cut the stud bosses down.
I just hope Sling Blade here goes back to lawn mowers and quits fucking up decent forced heads!
@@donkedik7793 I’m doing the same a set if vortec 906 head’s I thought you only needed to cut stud bosses down when adding guide plates? I may be wrong since I’m still
Learning on these heads and that’s why I’m here! I’m doing LS6 blue valve springs comp cams 787-16 retainer’s and not sure if I want to use my +.50 offset keepers are just cut my spring Bosses down to get me there but may be wrong.. I know I’m going to run scorpion narrow body self - aligning roller rockers, going with a 26H cam with 600 carb
@@cdpperformance2613 you'll have plenty of clearance for that cam using LS6 springs as long as you stay with 1.5 ratio ratio rocker arms. If you go to 1.6 rocker arms, your total lift will be .484". In that case, I'd recommend trimming the valve guide. You'd only need to trim them about .030" to .050" at the most.
@@donkedik7793 thanks for the info I got a set of scorpion 1.5 narrow body self - aligning roller rockers coming.. wow didn’t know there was this Many to pick from! Lol and the cost it’s crazy
All you gotta do it cut a hundred thousands off the seal bosses
I was thinking the same thing why cut the boss all the way off what's going to keep the spring seats from jumping around good luck with that bud
I was shaking my head thinking why is he taking so much off? .100"-.150" is plenty. Need to leave some at the base to keep the spring centered.
that tool in a drill press at proper angle and some oil be badass cutting
You can never have too much lube he said.
You cut too much off of the guide, got to leave enough of the guide boss because the bottom of it is used as a spring locator without it the spring will walk around.. These heads are basically ruined.
Learning all the time here , valve seals are quite a modern fitment really ,i remember old garage work no seals on many , new carbon deposits are harder these days and can score bores to my horror , better with seals !!
leave some meat so valve springs dont flop around
No lube or nothing? Asking cause I know its cast but still seems dry and rough lol is wd40 or ok to help cut and cool
That was pretty nice tool for that.
oil would be nice!😮
I'm not real smart but shoulda probably cut new threads in the first hole first!!! If you yank both studs at the same time I hope you can pretend real good where them studs belong in relation to the guide. Oh yeah dry fucking these parts is always the way to go. Hmmm the drill is melting in his hand. Always a sure sign things are going properly lol!!!
Good grief, you're burning up the guide cutter. It's trash after one attempt. It should only take a few seconds to do each guide.
You would have an easier time if you used some oil for the cutter and stud hardware and please use an impact socket on an impact gun. Chrome sockets will shatter and send shrapnel everywhere.
A drill press worked wonders on my vortec heads. It's slow and you add the press yourself.
Thanks for sharing this.
And please take this constructively-oil is your friend.
Would love to see the engine you use these on too.
Gota slow that cutter down to arnd 550 -650 rpm and oil while. Cutting !! Sheesh
Love it Love all the comments I always wanted to know how it's done
spray some oil on it while cutting
Got a part number for that sweet cutter?
Will this bit stay sharp enough to do multiple heads
The way he's using/abusing it, it won't make it through one guide.
How did u cut the boss down where the stud goes did u use the same tool u used to cut the guides down ?