I've just started using mine a little in the evenings after I shut down the sawmill. Using a 2" Amana with a 2.25hp Bosch, and it takes FOREVER, though obviously that's not a flaw with the Slab Flattening Mill Pro. I will soon get the 3.5hp Milwaukee, so that should help. I have built mine with BIG slabs and glue-ups in mind, so I bought a 2' extension and used the 76" rails for the carriage, so it's very wide. Building a second table to butt up to it when doing the full 11' length capacity. I will say that I was really impressed with the packaging and instructions from Woodpeckers, though I did take off the skirts since I don't have dust collection and they are really stiff when they're cold (the flattener is in one of the non-heated rooms in the building).
I've been using the original mill for a few years now and love it. Since I have bench dog holes all over my bench (Cut using your template jig), rather than using your clamping dogs, I use my holes and dogs with a couple Festool clamps that fit the holes to lock the work down. Shimming under a couple spots and using duct tape to secure the shims works. Rather than creating a plywood base, I have been using a couple 2x6 boards clamped to my bench which the rails are attached to via the end cap screw holes. That has made setup fast and it stores easy too. The multi-knob trick is definitely in my next order though and the upgrade to the new router base has been tempting for easier major height adjustment as well as better dust collection. Thanks for the video!
You are the masters of unique tools and jigs! That being said, the home woodworkers need something new: A modification of this system to mount a portable planer, (like DeWalt D26676) for slab flattening. This would be so much more productive than flattening with a router. Most of these portable planers already have easy mounting at the front, (edging fence mount), and would only require minor accommodation for mounting the rear of the tool. Had already reached-out to your website contact, and they recommended bringing it up here for further discussion.
Maybe...but many live edge slabs have really crazy grain patterns...crotches, swirls, burls, etc. Even if you could get a planer head mounted in a way that would cut a single plane, you would likely be dealing with pretty serious tear-out.
I love my woodpeckers pro slab mill. I don't use it very often, but when I do, it is a pleasure to use. Little hard on the back though. Much cheaper than a large CNC Machine.
thanks for the deep dive Jeff. Great explanation on setting up and operating. Seems that carriage is crying out for an extension handle of some sort to eliminate reaching so far over the table. That looks like it could be tough on the back after a while. Maybe modify the cross brace or make something that attaches to extend your reach by six or eight inches.
Anything you stick on the end to increase your reach is going be in your way when you're working closer, or force you to move back away from your work. If I were doing this more than once in a while, I would build a table that is just a few inches lower than my outfeed table. That would make the reach easier without adding something that's going to end up in the way.
Why are you even here? I mean, if you don’t like the tools, the videos, the brand, or maybe it’s just this guy in particular, whatever your problem is, why not just move on? Why do you feel the need to spread your little negative attitude around? Can’t afford the tools, so rather than admit that, & look at the real problem that is you’re failures in life, instead jump on RUclips to try & convince everyone else that you don’t have any woodpeckers tools, Not because you are too broke to afford them, but because you chose to never hit the gas in your life to progress far enough to afford high precision measuring instruments and the other various tools they make? Or maybe your trying to convince yourself? You know they aren’t even unique in the high priced high accuracy tool department right? Go take a look at Starrett. A REAL look. They have what appear to basically be framing squares that sell for $3,000, because they are guaranteed accurate to such a crazy degree. See, what those of us in this world who care enough about ourselves that we have made something of ourselves, WE all understand and appreciate that you have to pay premium prices for premium items. And Jeff here? Just happens to be about the best guy for the job of explaining their tools. They have so many that are unique to them. Tools that exist one place only NEED to have videos like this explaining them. Maybe instead of hopping on social media just to spread negativity into the world, you should instead be figuring out how to carve out the type of living for yourself that you look at the Woodpeckers website, and you don’t get sticker shock because you can easily afford any & everything they make. Sounds like a better use of time to ME, but I suppose that’s why I’m where I am, & you are where you are. Sad
Thank you. Please do one on the ODDJOB XL. The tool is a phenomenal shop assist. Has replaced a number of hand tools in shop, easing job flow. Would guess that careful research would reveal broad utility for the tool.
Why not walk the carriage and bit the length of the slab vs working back and forth bending over the slab? Does the router need the downward hand force?
Depends on your cutter and your material. 40 sounds pretty coarse. You should only need that if you're getting significant tear out. If you just have ghost tracks like I had in the video, try starting with 100 and see if you can save some time and effort.
I can’t stop using my slab flattening mill pro! I even use it to cut a straight edge on lumber. I don’t have a big jointer so this system helps me with that! Thanks for the tip on using the t-knobs I def need to do that!! Question How do you prevent the router carriage rails (the aluminum rails the carriage sits on) become loose or out square? I agree with some of the statements about reaching over the working area. I do wish there was some sort of mechanism that helps. I really like this system. I wish I could keep it set up permanently but 1.5 car garage real estate is very limited. Right now I set it up on top of 4x8 bora centipede base then store it when not in use.
Great video! Even though I have been using this for about a year, I learned something new. Thank you for taking the time to make this video! I will say that the mill works best with 3 1/4 hp router. I had tried a smaller one and it did not work so well. Upgraded to the Triton 3.25 and it made a world of difference. Can you do a video showing how you use it as a joiner?
I wonder if there's a way to add an extension handle of some sort to make it easier to push across a wide slab and then pull it back? Perhaps something easily removable because it wouldn't be needed for narrower slabs.
That's really darn neat, I don't have any particular reason for slab flattening (I don't do slab tables or anything) but darn if I don't want one anyway after watching this video. I think that Festool router would blow my entire shop budget for a year, though! XD Great explanation of the tool, and fun to watch. :)
Cindi, the red knob is one of our Multi-Knobs. www.woodpeck.com/multi-knob.html The 1/4-20 bolt can be found in any hardware store or home center. You want the length to be the thickness of your base board plus one inch. You'll need 1/4-20 hex nuts, too. The fit into the Multi-Knobs.
Great video. Thanks! I bought woodpeckers slab flattening mill right before the Pro came out. Using a festool 2200 router with CT36 Vacuum. Wasn't impressed. At best, 5% of the dust & shavings went into the Vacuum. Does the Pro capture more than the original flattening mill?
Yes. The integrated dust port is very effective. Did you know there is a conversion kit to put the new sled on your old rails? Check it out at woodpeck.com
I love my slab mill but have this suggestion. Throw the dogs in the trash! Why would you drill a bunch of holes in your top? Makes no sense to me. I coated my top with polyurethane to provide a nice clean surface. I level my slab with shims as Jeff does. Instead of the dogs I use blocks secured strategically around the slab with carpet tape. It works wonderfully and leaves no screw holes in your work surface.
Can you leave the router in position and slide the larger side rails instead to mill with the grain, moving the smaller rails after each pass? That’s how a shop operated a competitor’s unit on my slab. It was easier with two men pushing on both sides of the track
Great video. One thing didn't make sense to me. Can you explain why you adjusted the base height? You said it was right at the height of the board but then you seemed to lower it two notches.
No, I raised it two notches (router higher). That put some space between the bottom of the router carrier and the top of the slab. That lets the curtain work more efficiently.
I've gotten a hold of several larger slabs of walnut, red oak & white oak (2 1/2" - 3 1/2" thick) and I like what I see here. My question is that I also have an older work bench that has sagged in the middle. Can I use the mill to level it up?
How would you level a bench that was already constructed but has slightly warped. The top definitely has to be falttened, I have 2 others I have pruchased and they too are NOT flat. I am new to this type of operation so if my questions seem at beginner level then that is me.
Fix a couple straight 2x6's to the sides of your bench, keeping them straight with each other and creating the plane you want on your benchtop. Mount the Slab Flattening Mill rails to those, adjust the router carriage to match and get after it.
Very nice slab mill. I'm currently using my CNC to flatten my slabs, I have a 25" width capacity on it. If the wife decides she needs to make larger tables I'll have the leverage to either upgrade the CNC, which I really don't have any room for, or I'll be coming back to give this a more serious look. Have you ever thought about laser engraving the rail with 1/2" and/or 1" marks/tics to make alignment for the each pass easier and more accurate? It just seems that graduations would be included in a top-of-the-line mill, especially since you folks have made an empire primarily on making squares with ruled graduations. 🤷♂️
Except...that spacing only works if you're using a 2-1/4" cutter. If you're using a 2" cutter you want the marks at 1-3/4" and 7/8" instead of 2" and 1". If you're using a 1-1/2" cutter, you want them at 1-3/8" and 11/16". And, they really don't need to be precise. I just got tired of guessing...usually wrong. If you set up your tics with a little overlap, you won't leave lines and you won't waste time by not moving as much as you could.
Those knobs on the bottom, do they come with the Pro slab? If not, what about the bolts that seem to slide into the rails? Did those bolts come with the rails? Where did you get the knob/bolt setup from?
Robert, the hardware that comes with the SFM Pro is for screwing the rails down to a sheet of material. I came up the idea of attaching it using bolts to make it easier to reposition for longer slabs. The bolts are just standard hex heads and the knobs I used are Woodpeckers Multi-Knobs, available from woodpeck.com. Any knob would do, though.
What works for me is a Lie-Nielsen No. 8 jointer plane. It stores on a shelf with my other planes. I get lots of exercise using it, too. A table top does not have to be dead flat unless it's a reference surface; for dining, writing, coffee, card games, etc., visibly flat is fine and a slab of solid wood is going to bow anyway.
Bill, those are our Multi-Knobs. You can make them a male stud or a female nut just by dropping in a hex head bolt or hex nut. They're the best. www.woodpeck.com/multi-knob.html
Seems to me that there is more dust than I would expect with 3 hoses attached. I do know that when you are at each end, due to the construction of the dust shroud, there is a gap where the shroud hangs over an area where the slab does not rest. So the dust just falls down versus get picked up. Any thoughts on that? Maybe make the dust shrouds adjustable in and outwards from the blade? I also noticed that changing the height of the router carriage seems cumbersome. Meaning, it could be made better. Why do we have to take it apart to change the height? Can't woodpecker make some kind of winding arm to self adjust the height? I just bought this setup and have not taken it out of the box yet. I had expected that the adjusting would be so much better than this.
Robert, the vast majority of your depth of cut adjustment will be with the router itself. You'll only need to adjust the plate of the sled if your slab is greatly thicker or thinner than the last one you cut. We didn't make that adjustment more complex in design, because it is not something you have to do often.
I use a 650cfm dust collector instead of a shop vac pulling 100-200 cfm. running the 4" down to the 2 1/4 at 2 or even 3 ports adds even more pressure to collect the dust. i have hardly any dust with this set up
I used Sharpies, which are "permanent" markers, but a dab of acetone will wipe it right off. Nail polish remover will work, too (same stuff just watered down and perfumed).
Not that i would want to increase the price of this, but could you mill light imperial and metric marks on the v rails. maybe like a centering guide and then can be used spacing passes. i hate making marks on my tools especially when it becomes repetitive.
Gary, An actual, complete scale wouldn't be as helpful as your own marks, customized to the cutter you're using -- which might change. These are meant to be "ballpark" guides so you don't waste passes or leave ridges. A complete scale means you have to do math for every movement...not the point at all. If you don't like marking up your tool, use a dry erase marker and just wipe it off when you're through. Even if you use a Sharpie, like I did, a paper towel with a splash of rubbing alcohol cleans the whole thing up in a minute.
Excellent video Jeff, thank you! Question on the Amana 3-blade cutter you used: Since it only has 3 small points of contact when cutting (vs. the Whiteside 4-blade bit for example), couldn't a 2 1/4 hp router be used successfully with the Amana? The Amana looks heavier than the Whiteside and obviously is bigger in diameter, but was thinking that would be offset by the much smaller cutting surface length. It's Monday morning so maybe more coffee is in order, but would appreciate your insights on this. Thanks again for the in depth video!
If it's variable speed, I would be comfortable with a 2-1/4HP router. It would be slower, but if you listen to the tool and don't push it too hard, it will handle it.
Why not just laser engrave the runner rails with a ruler so you don't need to do the marker routine? Also seems like some solid aluminum handles that extended out the side of sled toward the operator about 18 inches would be extremely helpful in keeping the operator from leaning over the workpiece.
A ruler would just be confusing. Your adjustment each step is completely dependent on the size of your router bit. It needs to be just a little less than the total width for roughing cuts and a bit less than half the width for finishing cuts. I was using a 2-1/4" bit, so I spaced my tic marks 2" apart for brown marks and then black marks 1" between each of those. Roughing cuts on brown marks finish cuts on all marks. BUT if I was using a 1-1/2" cutter the math would be different.
@@WoodpeckersLLC Amana does not list a 2 1/4 3-wing fly cutter on their website as an available option. They have a 2 1/2 and a 2 3/4. I wonder if you wouldn't mind providing the model number of your bit in case my search capabilities are insufficient.
Sorry, it's 2-1/2" , not 2-1/4". Here's the link to it on our web site and the Amana part number is there, too. www.woodpeck.com/amana-tool-carbide-insert-3-cutter-spoilboard-bit.html
Not necessarily. The rails have to be parallel to the table, and the table has to be flat, but the table does not have to be level and plumb. It certainly wouldn't hurt anything, but it is not required to work properly.
@Woodpeckers my question answered! I have a saw log that got out of flat because the u-bolt vibrated loose during the first cut (and this user's first cut). I've debated whether to just redo the first cut, wasting kerf plus a bit, or using the slab flattener to bring it into flat. The trick is setting up a stable, sloping AND flat floating frame on soil surface around a huge saw log. Got any practical guidance?
Another easy way might be to attach an apron of ridgid, straight flat stock to the sides of the saw log (imagine a swimming pool surround, or a picture frame). Have to consider if the marks left from mounting are making waste or would be an easy repair.
I've always thought a clever manufacturer would come up with something that doesn't use a router but a powered hand planer. It's takes forever to use the router to flatten a large slab.
I'm just now starting to get things together to build my own shop and would absolutely sell someone else's kidney's for one. Not mine...I need them....but someone else's would do nicely.
I was going to get this, but at $1k shippings to Australia you totally lost me on your BS pricing policy. So I ended up building a very strong and reliable alternative from 3D printed materials, linear rails, a router table insert, a stack of nuts and bolts and aluminium angle, all for about AU$600, way cheaper than you outlandish and exorbitant price point.
![Oscar Maydon x Fuerza Regida - Tu Boda [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/_ymicn0_GYc/mqdefault.jpg)
I've just started using mine a little in the evenings after I shut down the sawmill. Using a 2" Amana with a 2.25hp Bosch, and it takes FOREVER, though obviously that's not a flaw with the Slab Flattening Mill Pro. I will soon get the 3.5hp Milwaukee, so that should help. I have built mine with BIG slabs and glue-ups in mind, so I bought a 2' extension and used the 76" rails for the carriage, so it's very wide. Building a second table to butt up to it when doing the full 11' length capacity. I will say that I was really impressed with the packaging and instructions from Woodpeckers, though I did take off the skirts since I don't have dust collection and they are really stiff when they're cold (the flattener is in one of the non-heated rooms in the building).
Nicely explained. Instead of using the dogs and drilling holes in my bench I use shims and hot glue. It works great.
Do you glue both sides of the shim?
After watching this video, I am so happy I went with another design.
Why so.. and what design did you go with?
I've been using the original mill for a few years now and love it. Since I have bench dog holes all over my bench (Cut using your template jig), rather than using your clamping dogs, I use my holes and dogs with a couple Festool clamps that fit the holes to lock the work down. Shimming under a couple spots and using duct tape to secure the shims works. Rather than creating a plywood base, I have been using a couple 2x6 boards clamped to my bench which the rails are attached to via the end cap screw holes. That has made setup fast and it stores easy too. The multi-knob trick is definitely in my next order though and the upgrade to the new router base has been tempting for easier major height adjustment as well as better dust collection. Thanks for the video!
Great video, I have been thinking about buying one of these mills, your video makes my decision a little closer.
I just ordered this, can’t wait to try it out! These tips will be extremely helpful.
You are the masters of unique tools and jigs! That being said, the home woodworkers need something new: A modification of this system to mount a portable planer, (like DeWalt D26676) for slab flattening. This would be so much more productive than flattening with a router. Most of these portable planers already have easy mounting at the front, (edging fence mount), and would only require minor accommodation for mounting the rear of the tool. Had already reached-out to your website contact, and they recommended bringing it up here for further discussion.
Maybe...but many live edge slabs have really crazy grain patterns...crotches, swirls, burls, etc. Even if you could get a planer head mounted in a way that would cut a single plane, you would likely be dealing with pretty serious tear-out.
I love my woodpeckers pro slab mill. I don't use it very often, but when I do, it is a pleasure to use. Little hard on the back though. Much cheaper than a large CNC Machine.
thanks for the deep dive Jeff. Great explanation on setting up and operating. Seems that carriage is crying out for an extension handle of some sort to eliminate reaching so far over the table. That looks like it could be tough on the back after a while. Maybe modify the cross brace or make something that attaches to extend your reach by six or eight inches.
Anything you stick on the end to increase your reach is going be in your way when you're working closer, or force you to move back away from your work. If I were doing this more than once in a while, I would build a table that is just a few inches lower than my outfeed table. That would make the reach easier without adding something that's going to end up in the way.
ridiculously convoluted as usual👍
Why are you even here? I mean, if you don’t like the tools, the videos, the brand, or maybe it’s just this guy in particular, whatever your problem is, why not just move on? Why do you feel the need to spread your little negative attitude around? Can’t afford the tools, so rather than admit that, & look at the real problem that is you’re failures in life, instead jump on RUclips to try & convince everyone else that you don’t have any woodpeckers tools, Not because you are too broke to afford them, but because you chose to never hit the gas in your life to progress far enough to afford high precision measuring instruments and the other various tools they make? Or maybe your trying to convince yourself? You know they aren’t even unique in the high priced high accuracy tool department right? Go take a look at Starrett. A REAL look. They have what appear to basically be framing squares that sell for $3,000, because they are guaranteed accurate to such a crazy degree. See, what those of us in this world who care enough about ourselves that we have made something of ourselves, WE all understand and appreciate that you have to pay premium prices for premium items. And Jeff here? Just happens to be about the best guy for the job of explaining their tools. They have so many that are unique to them. Tools that exist one place only NEED to have videos like this explaining them. Maybe instead of hopping on social media just to spread negativity into the world, you should instead be figuring out how to carve out the type of living for yourself that you look at the Woodpeckers website, and you don’t get sticker shock because you can easily afford any & everything they make. Sounds like a better use of time to ME, but I suppose that’s why I’m where I am, & you are where you are. Sad
Thank you. Please do one on the ODDJOB XL. The tool is a phenomenal shop assist. Has replaced a number of hand tools in shop, easing job flow. Would guess that careful research would reveal broad utility for the tool.
Why not walk the carriage and bit the length of the slab vs working back and forth bending over the slab? Does the router need the downward hand force?
Excellent tutorial, the best ! Agustino J. Napoli ,Master Violinmaker.
☆Hey Jeff.
Excellent demonstration!
That 3rd bit, the 3 tip from armana, would that clean cut an epoxy river?
Thanks much!
It will cut the epoxy well, but it will still need successive grades of abrasives and polishes to finish clear and shiny.
@@WoodpeckersLLC Excellent!!! Thanks so much for replying 🙏.
Great video. Thank you. I get the same run marks can't feel them but I use 40 or 80 grit and it takes forever!! Should I be using a higher grit??? TiA
Depends on your cutter and your material. 40 sounds pretty coarse. You should only need that if you're getting significant tear out. If you just have ghost tracks like I had in the video, try starting with 100 and see if you can save some time and effort.
I can’t stop using my slab flattening mill pro! I even use it to cut a straight edge on lumber. I don’t have a big jointer so this system helps me with that!
Thanks for the tip on using the t-knobs I def need to do that!!
Question
How do you prevent the router carriage rails (the aluminum rails the carriage sits on) become loose or out square?
I agree with some of the statements about reaching over the working area. I do wish there was some sort of mechanism that helps.
I really like this system. I wish I could keep it set up permanently but 1.5 car garage real estate is very limited. Right now I set it up on top of 4x8 bora centipede base then store it when not in use.
The T-knob mount will help you quite a bit if your rails are moving on your. Short of that, I would recommend using bolts instead of screws.
Do you sell the extrusion on its own? It would be handy to make jigs that I could reuse my carriage with.
Great video! Even though I have been using this for about a year, I learned something new. Thank you for taking the time to make this video! I will say that the mill works best with 3 1/4 hp router. I had tried a smaller one and it did not work so well. Upgraded to the Triton 3.25 and it made a world of difference. Can you do a video showing how you use it as a joiner?
Glad you enjoyed it Leh. I'll put the edge jointing technique on the list for future Deep Dives.
Muito bom!
Adorei o seu trabalho!
Abraços!
@@WoodpeckersLLC - I’d love to see that edge-jointing deep dive!
I wonder if there's a way to add an extension handle of some sort to make it easier to push across a wide slab and then pull it back? Perhaps something easily removable because it wouldn't be needed for narrower slabs.
I’ve used a long bar clamp. Put it on the black cross brace on the carriage sled.
Like the marking technique very nice makes me want it even more
That's really darn neat, I don't have any particular reason for slab flattening (I don't do slab tables or anything) but darn if I don't want one anyway after watching this video. I think that Festool router would blow my entire shop budget for a year, though! XD
Great explanation of the tool, and fun to watch. :)
What exactly and where to buy the 1/4 20 bolt with red knob to secure the v track, please? I love this idea!
Cindi, the red knob is one of our Multi-Knobs. www.woodpeck.com/multi-knob.html The 1/4-20 bolt can be found in any hardware store or home center. You want the length to be the thickness of your base board plus one inch. You'll need 1/4-20 hex nuts, too. The fit into the Multi-Knobs.
Great video. Thanks! I bought woodpeckers slab flattening mill right before the Pro came out. Using a festool 2200 router with CT36 Vacuum. Wasn't impressed. At best, 5% of the dust & shavings went into the Vacuum. Does the Pro capture more than the original flattening mill?
Yes. The integrated dust port is very effective. Did you know there is a conversion kit to put the new sled on your old rails? Check it out at woodpeck.com
I love my slab mill but have this suggestion. Throw the dogs in the trash! Why would you drill a bunch of holes in your top? Makes no sense to me. I coated my top with polyurethane to provide a nice clean surface. I level my slab with shims as Jeff does. Instead of the dogs I use blocks secured strategically around the slab with carpet tape. It works wonderfully and leaves no screw holes in your work surface.
Can you leave the router in position and slide the larger side rails instead to mill with the grain, moving the smaller rails after each pass?
That’s how a shop operated a competitor’s unit on my slab. It was easier with two men pushing on both sides of the track
That absolutely works, but as you said, it's best with two people.
Great video. One thing didn't make sense to me. Can you explain why you adjusted the base height? You said it was right at the height of the board but then you seemed to lower it two notches.
No, I raised it two notches (router higher). That put some space between the bottom of the router carrier and the top of the slab. That lets the curtain work more efficiently.
I've gotten a hold of several larger slabs of walnut, red oak & white oak (2 1/2" - 3 1/2" thick) and I like what I see here. My question is that I also have an older work bench that has sagged in the middle. Can I use the mill to level it up?
Sorry I missed this question, Bruce. I think it would work great to resurface your workbench.
How would you level a bench that was already constructed but has slightly warped. The top definitely has to be falttened, I have 2 others I have pruchased and they too are NOT flat. I am new to this type of operation so if my questions seem at beginner level then that is me.
Fix a couple straight 2x6's to the sides of your bench, keeping them straight with each other and creating the plane you want on your benchtop. Mount the Slab Flattening Mill rails to those, adjust the router carriage to match and get after it.
Hi. You should use a woodpecker rule for measuring. Better than that tape measure. ❤
sorry, I forgot table measurements: 32" wide X 56" long. Thanks again for the excellent video.
That will fit just fine.
Very nice slab mill. I'm currently using my CNC to flatten my slabs, I have a 25" width capacity on it. If the wife decides she needs to make larger tables I'll have the leverage to either upgrade the CNC, which I really don't have any room for, or I'll be coming back to give this a more serious look. Have you ever thought about laser engraving the rail with 1/2" and/or 1" marks/tics to make alignment for the each pass easier and more accurate? It just seems that graduations would be included in a top-of-the-line mill, especially since you folks have made an empire primarily on making squares with ruled graduations. 🤷♂️
Except...that spacing only works if you're using a 2-1/4" cutter. If you're using a 2" cutter you want the marks at 1-3/4" and 7/8" instead of 2" and 1". If you're using a 1-1/2" cutter, you want them at 1-3/8" and 11/16". And, they really don't need to be precise. I just got tired of guessing...usually wrong. If you set up your tics with a little overlap, you won't leave lines and you won't waste time by not moving as much as you could.
Those knobs on the bottom, do they come with the Pro slab? If not, what about the bolts that seem to slide into the rails? Did those bolts come with the rails? Where did you get the knob/bolt setup from?
Robert, the hardware that comes with the SFM Pro is for screwing the rails down to a sheet of material. I came up the idea of attaching it using bolts to make it easier to reposition for longer slabs. The bolts are just standard hex heads and the knobs I used are Woodpeckers Multi-Knobs, available from woodpeck.com. Any knob would do, though.
What works for me is a Lie-Nielsen No. 8 jointer plane. It stores on a shelf with my other planes. I get lots of exercise using it, too. A table top does not have to be dead flat unless it's a reference surface; for dining, writing, coffee, card games, etc., visibly flat is fine and a slab of solid wood is going to bow anyway.
I have the base model and wondered if I can buy the pro router carriage to use on the base system?
You most certainly can. www.woodpeck.com/woodpeckers-slab-flattening-mill-pro.html
do i need or should i need a collet extension when using this mill? Or is it dependent on the router and bit i am using?
Eric, you do not need a shaft extension.
You need to do a video on the Craftsman 6" planer you have in the background.
Watch my personal RUclips Channel. Shop tour and machine profiles coming soon.
Where did you get those nice red locking grips you used to lock down the main rails onto the table surface?
Bill, those are our Multi-Knobs. You can make them a male stud or a female nut just by dropping in a hex head bolt or hex nut. They're the best. www.woodpeck.com/multi-knob.html
Why does everybody who makes/uses a router sled go across the grain vs lengthwise with the grain? Seems like you'd get a better initial cut?
Much better going with the grain 👍
You do. Going with the grain is much better and a lot quicker.
Fantastická hračka ❤️
Seems to me that there is more dust than I would expect with 3 hoses attached. I do know that when you are at each end, due to the construction of the dust shroud, there is a gap where the shroud hangs over an area where the slab does not rest. So the dust just falls down versus get picked up. Any thoughts on that? Maybe make the dust shrouds adjustable in and outwards from the blade?
I also noticed that changing the height of the router carriage seems cumbersome. Meaning, it could be made better. Why do we have to take it apart to change the height? Can't woodpecker make some kind of winding arm to self adjust the height? I just bought this setup and have not taken it out of the box yet. I had expected that the adjusting would be so much better than this.
Robert, the vast majority of your depth of cut adjustment will be with the router itself. You'll only need to adjust the plate of the sled if your slab is greatly thicker or thinner than the last one you cut. We didn't make that adjustment more complex in design, because it is not something you have to do often.
I use a 650cfm dust collector instead of a shop vac pulling 100-200 cfm. running the 4" down to the 2 1/4 at 2 or even 3 ports adds even more pressure to collect the dust. i have hardly any dust with this set up
Amazing video.
What markers are you using so that the marks on the extrusion aren't permanent?
I used Sharpies, which are "permanent" markers, but a dab of acetone will wipe it right off. Nail polish remover will work, too (same stuff just watered down and perfumed).
Could someone tell me what the name of the clamps used is, or a link please. Thank you.
Slab Clamping Dogs. Last SKU on this page: www.woodpeck.com/woodpeckers-slab-flattening-mill-pro.html
Not that i would want to increase the price of this, but could you mill light imperial and metric marks on the v rails. maybe like a centering guide and then can be used spacing passes. i hate making marks on my tools especially when it becomes repetitive.
Gary, An actual, complete scale wouldn't be as helpful as your own marks, customized to the cutter you're using -- which might change. These are meant to be "ballpark" guides so you don't waste passes or leave ridges. A complete scale means you have to do math for every movement...not the point at all. If you don't like marking up your tool, use a dry erase marker and just wipe it off when you're through. Even if you use a Sharpie, like I did, a paper towel with a splash of rubbing alcohol cleans the whole thing up in a minute.
Excellent video Jeff, thank you! Question on the Amana 3-blade cutter you used: Since it only has 3 small points of contact when cutting (vs. the Whiteside 4-blade bit for example), couldn't a 2 1/4 hp router be used successfully with the Amana? The Amana looks heavier than the Whiteside and obviously is bigger in diameter, but was thinking that would be offset by the much smaller cutting surface length. It's Monday morning so maybe more coffee is in order, but would appreciate your insights on this. Thanks again for the in depth video!
If it's variable speed, I would be comfortable with a 2-1/4HP router. It would be slower, but if you listen to the tool and don't push it too hard, it will handle it.
Thank you sir!
Can you tell me where I can get those clamping dogs you used to secure the wood slab?
www.woodpeck.com/woodpeckers-slab-flattening-mill-pro.html Last item in the product list.
Love it!!!
i use a 3 1/4 triton router
Why not just laser engrave the runner rails with a ruler so you don't need to do the marker routine? Also seems like some solid aluminum handles that extended out the side of sled toward the operator about 18 inches would be extremely helpful in keeping the operator from leaning over the workpiece.
A ruler would just be confusing. Your adjustment each step is completely dependent on the size of your router bit. It needs to be just a little less than the total width for roughing cuts and a bit less than half the width for finishing cuts. I was using a 2-1/4" bit, so I spaced my tic marks 2" apart for brown marks and then black marks 1" between each of those. Roughing cuts on brown marks finish cuts on all marks. BUT if I was using a 1-1/2" cutter the math would be different.
@@WoodpeckersLLC Amana does not list a 2 1/4 3-wing fly cutter on their website as an available option. They have a 2 1/2 and a 2 3/4. I wonder if you wouldn't mind providing the model number of your bit in case my search capabilities are insufficient.
Sorry, it's 2-1/2" , not 2-1/4". Here's the link to it on our web site and the Amana part number is there, too.
www.woodpeck.com/amana-tool-carbide-insert-3-cutter-spoilboard-bit.html
Where do you get the shims?
Lowe's, Home Depot or the Home Center of your choice.
@@WoodpeckersLLC door shims, cheap wood or upgrade plastic and sorta reusable.
Excellence
Wow great vid???
Obviously it all starts with a massive level and plumb bench top for the Slab Flattening Mill to work properly.
Not necessarily. The rails have to be parallel to the table, and the table has to be flat, but the table does not have to be level and plumb. It certainly wouldn't hurt anything, but it is not required to work properly.
@Woodpeckers my question answered! I have a saw log that got out of flat because the u-bolt vibrated loose during the first cut (and this user's first cut). I've debated whether to just redo the first cut, wasting kerf plus a bit, or using the slab flattener to bring it into flat. The trick is setting up a stable, sloping AND flat floating frame on soil surface around a huge saw log. Got any practical guidance?
An easy way might be to use two adjustable saw horses, set perpendicular to the main guide rails at each end of the saw log.
Another easy way might be to attach an apron of ridgid, straight flat stock to the sides of the saw log (imagine a swimming pool surround, or a picture frame). Have to consider if the marks left from mounting are making waste or would be an easy repair.
I've always thought a clever manufacturer would come up with something that doesn't use a router but a powered hand planer. It's takes forever to use the router to flatten a large slab.
Wow what a price hike 😲😪
The price goes up year to year and from 2022 to 2023 the price increased 100 dollars. I waited for the “sale” price which was just 2022 pricing.
I'm just now starting to get things together to build my own shop and would absolutely sell someone else's kidney's for one.
Not mine...I need them....but someone else's would do nicely.
I was going to get this, but at $1k shippings to Australia you totally lost me on your BS pricing policy. So I ended up building a very strong and reliable alternative from 3D printed materials, linear rails, a router table insert, a stack of nuts and bolts and aluminium angle, all for about AU$600, way cheaper than you outlandish and exorbitant price point.