Shortwave is working ... sort of. Dial lamps get replaced. Sony CRF-320 restoration Pt.4
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
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There is nothing more frustrating for a restorer than a device that works, but sometimes misbehaves for very short periods. The fact that the fault doesn't stay active for a longer period means that you don't have the time to test for the fault condition, before it jumps back to correct operation.
I will have to give it some time to try and recognise the fault behaviour pattern, and hopefully manage to correct it once and for all.
In the meantime, I have replaced the dial lamps, which were very dim. A common mod made to this model of radio involves replacing the AC dial lamps with LEDs, using a small PCB that rectifies the AC dial lamp signal, filters it, and then drives a green LED. I wanted to avoid adding the board, so opted for a simpler solution that I really liked. Stick around and see what you think.
Hope you enjoy the video.
I will again reference the two videos on this radio that have been invaluable to me so far:
Mr. Carlson's Lab: • SONY CRF-320 Receiver ...
The Radio Shop: • #108 Sony CRF 320 Repair
Enjoy the video.
Other channels mentioned in this video:
@MrCarlsonsLab
@TheRadioShop
#RadioRestoration #SonyCRF #VintageElectronics
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Hi Manuel. She's looking extremely pretty - nice work! Probably through ignorance (as you know I'm much less experienced at this game than you are) but I don't trust tantalum caps much more than I do electrolytics of a certain age, particularly as they can fail shorted. Hybrid aluminum electrolytic capacitors (from Panasonic for example) share the low ESR characteristic of tantalums and might be a suitable alternative if a non-electrolytic capacitor alternative won't fit in the available space? Just a thought...
I’ve been thinking along the same lines. I’ve actually ordered new tantalum caps of the same value to change some if not all. The new ones seem to behave a lot better than the old.
A 1N914 will work as well. I have plenty of both. Each segment of the display is driven separately.
Take a voltage reading when it's suppose to light up.
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Hi Manuel, it looks like there is a deep scratch/ crack on the frequency counter board, you may want to confirm the traces and jumper them if needed.
Otherwise the radio looks great, you did an amazing job.
I checked that, thanks 👍
7:14 pretty sure that shield originaly had a piece of insulating paper or plastic glued to it to prevent it shorting to the pads on the PCB.
That would also explain the glue on it...
Nice radio. Should we guess that the intermitent issue is heat related? 😋
You could hook up wires to testpoints on it and measure while it sits running just to capture the the fault when it happens.
When it fails you dont have time to start hooking up wires, best to do that before.
Probably start with measuring supply voltages.
If you dont read anything wrong there then move the hookup wires to other testpoint (signal path...?) and hope for the best.
Good luck.
You’re right. I need to add some paper to that shield. That was dumb of me. I’m going though the block diagram sections one at a time and doing exactly what you’ve suggested … the problem is that last night it failed for about 5 seconds over a two-hour period 😊 I’ve listened to a LOT of SW stations that I’ve no interest in. Just sitting there staring at the radio 😊
That's one over-engineered radio. Sony sometimes went too far. Hyper-complexity gives you more to go wrong.
True 😊 also makes the challenge more interesting
Hi! It looks like the shield you unsoldered was rubbing against some traces of the pcb.
That’s possible
Be good to your self, pick a simple project next like an "all American five, or crystal set. ha ha
😊 good idea
When I worked for Marconi Instruments a few years ago some of the intermittent faults were due to an integrated circuit. We used a miniature heat gun and freezer spray, which did show up some of the faults, but not all of them. I've swapped bulbs for LEDs on radios and even a Ford Granada car I had, LEDs were quite new at that time and wasn't as bright as they are now. I hope you find that intermittent fault.
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Intermittent faults...a jack in the box..good progress ! I like the led idea..i have some radios with the grain of wheat bulbs 💡
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Besides the Ft-101, I think this is one of the most beautiful radios ever made.
I could think of a few more. But this is definitely in the top 3 of my list. 👌🏻
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Intermittant faults are the worst!
True
The LEDs look great Manuel 👍🙂
Thanks 👍
Great job on choosing those LEDs, they look stunning. I'm getting quite a bit of Cold War vibes here.
If the issue is really due to flaky ICs, you might try debugging with freeze spray or (very carefully) with hot air. That might trigger the fault condition.
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Really like the neat approach you have used for those LEDs.
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Looks great. The led conversion with buffed lense is a good idea. Ver clever
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That's one beautiful radio. As usual there is always something new I learn from each video. I plan on using your LED replacement method next time I need an old bulb replacement. Thanks.
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Happy 2024, Manuel! Nice Sony all band radio! These intermittent faults are a nightmare to catch, good luck! I like the LED approach. Just running them from filtered DC often will keep them alight a while as long as the caps are discharging, not quite ideal. I have done like you with scouring the LED, and a back connected diode in parallel, running from AC. I often have used amber LEDs in dials, looks nearly like the colour of lamps I find
Yes, I think I’ll use these LEDs in the future. I really like the result.
It's getting there! 🙂I've watched Mr Carlsons Lab and The Repair Shop videos (which are great) but, dare I say, your LED solution is so much better than theirs. I didn't like the PCBs being stuck in the radio in the way they did and what you have done is genius and so so unobtrusive. I love it. Well done!!
Thanks 😊
Manoel um ótimo trabalho parabéns vai ficar novo top demais uma boa noite…
👍 a luta continua 😊
I normally do not like LED "upgrades" because I think the light looks too cold and they don't tend to throw an even beam. However, you did a really nice job here and the glow is warm, pretty, and even. I like the idea of having a supporting diode. Well done!
Thanks
You could have add rectifying diodes and current limiting resistors for the 6.3V AC to all lamps on the circuit board where they originate than you could just solder bare led where they were used.
Yes, I could. However, I wanted to make this mod as unobtrusive (and reverseable) as possible.
If you had room as you said you could have used 2 leds bach to back so each one protects the other one and very, little flashing.
Yes, but the two would not fit into the hole, so one would face backwards.
I've been thinking about putting a flat on the end and then a small bit of foil to reflect the light back in and also sanding the sides to try and give a nice side illumination. From a cheap and easy to get LED.@@electronicsoldandnew
Believe it or not, 4 x 1N4148 fit exactly behind a 5mm LED when you direct them in the same direction as the LED, like cigarette's in a package. Only you cannot use pig tales then, takes to much space.But.. then there's no flicker at all.
True, but really not necessary. This one isn’t flickering at all.
@@electronicsoldandnew You are the first not notice then, for me 100Hz and nothing less. When I move my eyes with such LED even in the corner of my eyes I get a shiver 🤩
Oh I forgot: the row of 35 resistors behind the LED's tell you that they are individually driven. Just put the frequency so that it shows a 1 at the end (e.g. 8881), and use a wire to connect one of the working segments with the one that is not working, simply by trying. Does it not light, then the LED digit is broken or shorted to ground, if it does light the drive line to the chip is gone or the chip. It is often possible to run a wet finger over these contacts, and that will show faintly that it is working or not.
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Start by replacing all caps as possible ...then look a the voltage levels ,Then measure all clocks and see how clean they look ..Then replace MOS cirtuits if ther are available.. You may have corrected something by chance but something else must be going bad ...Sorry 40 years repairing all sorts of thing make you have automatic reflex
Thanks for the good advice. Will keep at it until it reveals its secrets 😊
Hello Manuel I have a very similar Sony receiver (ICF-6800-W) with a very similar intermittent drop out on shortwave. I haven't fixed it definitely yet but I am thinking it has to do with the rf preamp stage . Retuning that, it seams to bring it back in at times. But it could be as you said a chip in the tuning board causing maybe the agc to cut in and out. Good luck, I will be following you closely on this endeavor.
👍 thanks