I was a meter monkey for 8 years and those blocks aren't very good, BG had the bright idea to use them as they "saved time" on new connections, but theres normally inner insulation showing and or the copper doesnt reach both points of contact in the meter/cuttout. For future reference, nippex do a great 3mm hex driver which fits in all of those isolators.
That Knippex is a great tool. The nice thing is that even when you do eventually round it off, you can simply cut off the tip with a grinder or hacksaw and hey presto, brand new tool! I also finf the T-bar style awkward if the henley blocks are near the edge of the meter box.
Fair play Chris they are such a nightmare job to do even if you work with armours every day cheers mate keep up the good work.Are you going to start swinging through the trees Spider sparks
Great shows how it should be done, new builds it would be great to install the switch fuse units as you have done, but it comes down to price, and a lot of the time the accessories fitted is spec'd by the builder not the electrician and that is the same for all trades
As a Swedish spark I can’t wrap my head around how the meter cabinets are done in England. The rules for distribution boxes seems really stringent but the meter cabinets are always a complete mess. How could I be that there’s no regulation demanding a isolator to be installed by the supplier? Swedish meter cabinets are all metal and designed so that all the wiring is hidden and un measured parts of the cabinets are sealed.
Nice tidy job. That’s the sort of thing customers see as a “five minute job”. Keep up the good work. 👍 That could have been a bit easier if they’d used two core SWA to start with. Never understood why people insist on using three core and one of the cores as Earth. Plenty of CSA in the armouring.
Reason for a 3 core is so you can carry your earth into your CU without glanding both ends. Most of the time developers wont allow you to run the SWA on show inside the house meaning you really cant gland the SWA. As long as the SWA is glanded at one side with a banjo its allowed which is where they end up throwing your argument out the window. New builds come with their own set of struggles, you get a lot of folk who slag off tradies on new builds but believe we all struggle to make sense of their wants and needs. You can only recommend and advise but that normally results in a 3 day delay waiting for an answer only for it to declined and then you're 3 days behind schedule.
@@chrisdobbo8938 thanks for the explanation. New builds is one area I never worked in. It sounds like a nightmare but I totally understand what you’re saying. Respect to you and anyone else who does that work. As professionals we want to do what’s right and safe but also get paid. Not an easy thing by the sounds of it.
Nice neat job.... one point I would make, is that technically although hideous as hell, single insulated cable in a meter enclosure isn't a c1 or c2, as it's inside an enclosure only accessible with a tool (the key). But not having a fuse is very naughty
Meter cabinets are to be accessed by the public so the access via a tool doesn’t apply here. Also you cannot hand over a brand new job with any recommendations.
@@TheChipmunk2008 it's a box that's meant to be opened to look at a meter. It's not an electrical enclosure. You 'might' be able to argue your point semantically but you'd still be completely contrary to the intent and all common sense.
@@travoltasbiplane1551 indeed, that was my meaning when saying it TECHNICALLY complies... it was ugly as sin, but i always try to look at it from a devil's advocate point of view. Would I sign it off or be proud of it, HELL NO... could it be argued in court that it technically complied, well.. yes. As a bare minimum. let's not forget, exposed single insulated cores were the norm for decades, which of us hasn't seen a bell transformer from the 1950s wired up with crumbly VIR thats mostly bare copper, and yet nobody's dead in the cupboard. Chris did a DAMNED fine job clearing that lot up and certainly i'd have advised the customer to let us do the same or similar.
@@TheChipmunk2008 yeah but 'technically' it doesn't. It not an enclosure it's a cupboard with electrical stuff in. I just don't like misinformation. If you'd c3 this on an eicr you're mad and should have a think about why you're doing the eicr in the first place.
Loving the videos! This isn’t a negative question but how and when did you get close to overtaking Artisan? The amount of money they must of spent on production and there’s you swinging a GoPro around 😅 loving the content
@@rossmuaythai funny you say that. I could never get into Artisan back when it was just/mostly Jordan. I watched a few videos more recently when their production had improved and most videos focused on their employees. Cory in particular has a lot of chemistry on camera. I found Jordan started to grow on me the more I watched him, nothing wrong with being a bit cringe 😂
You're like me, "I only need a couple of tools" and half that time is spend tidying up😂 I have a stack of DeWalt tough system 2 but never have enough space 😂
Given the 0.2ohm Ze and the 80A fuse you'd have made your life a lot easier using a two core SWA - do the calc and you'll find that unless the cable is 70m long then the armour would more than suffice an earth connection.
There's a few issues with this suggestion... Firstly the cable was already run by a previous electrician. Chris was simply improving the terminations at one end of it. Secondly, the consumer unit end of the cable was un-glanded, and it would be fairly difficult to fit a gland at that end. Thirdly, table 54.7 requires we use 16xK₁÷K₂ to determine if a protective conductor is big enough in this case. K₁ & K₂ vary depending on if we're using 70° PVC SWA or 90° XLPE SWA, as do the respective CSAs of the steel armour. For 70° PVC, we get 16x115÷51 = 36.1mm² minimum CSA. Luckily this cable has 60mm² of armour so would be adequate. However for 90° XLPE, we get 16x143÷46 = 49.7mm² minimum CSA. 25mm² XLPE SWA only has 42mm² of armour, so wouldn't suffice. Anecdotally, I've found XLPE to be more commonly available than PVC when ordering SWA. It also seems to be specified more often in electrical designs as it can handle higher temperatures.
@@TheMattSturgeon My mistake I thought he’d replaced the cable because the conductors changed to brown-grey-black but he’d just removed the sleeving. Table 54.7 is only relevant if using Reg 543.1.4, but Reg 543.1.1 says you’re allowed to use either Reg .1.3 or .1.4. Reg 543.1.4 doesn’t take into account fault currents and protection - so it simply piggybacks on the CSA of the live conductors, but we know there’s an 80A fuse so almost certainly Reg 543.1.3 is going to give us an easier time. Even if it was a 100A fuse - worse case using the adiabatic equation would be 580A for 5 seconds [See Fig 3A1 ]. We’re given the formula S=sqrt(I^2 *t)/k=sqrt(580^2 *5)/46=28.193mm^2. So your 42mm^2 of armour is more than adequate. In PVC the requirement would be 25.4mm^2 which is also adequate. Not sure what you mean by glanding, he’s fitted a gland and used a banjo to connect to the MET. But my point is that 5 minutes of paperwork nearly always saves more than 5 minutes worth of time in money on cable and a lot of handling because a 3 core is a lot more hard work than a 2 core. Especially in meter boxes.
@@keirstitt8277 thanks for responding. I do agree with your point that a little bit of paperwork can save a lot of material and labour. The main reason for my first reply was to point out that he was re-using an existing cable. Thanks for reminding me about 543.1.3 as that reg is so often forgotten about or not bothered with. What I meant regarding the glanding is that Chris is re-terminating the supply end of the cable, but the load end didn't have any gland fitted by the original electrician, so you couldn't use the SWA for the CPC. Not really relevant if a new cable was being installed, as you would want to gland both ends.
@@TheMattSturgeon yep previous silly bracket was just ridiculous I've seen these a few times - you wonder what goes through people's heads. He's definitely done the right thing putting a switch fuse. For
@@keirstitt8277 I worked for the MEB prior to privatisation and still have a copy of their detailed guidance notes for supply characteristics, PME and LV meter connections.
Nice job I think it is time now that an option was available for a slightly larger meter cabinet to be available for situations where the con unit is going to be installed remote from the meter then everything can live in there in harmony rather than being a tight squeeze or having to install a separate cabinet alongside
I got DNO approval for small metal cabinets that go next to new build foundations and these have more room in them than the rubbish GRP units. We get the heads installed really early. Meter then goes in later when we want power. We then run armoured in a duct under the slab to the CU.
So what happens to the original crap installer? I see this all the time (amongst other shockers) and my local council (Torridge) do nothing. Cowboy electrical / building companies down my way, and they get away with it because the hide behind Part-P.
Why the first electrician do not make it correctly? Why they must pay more £ to have a correct build? Why do you not change this box to a bigger one. It is soooooo small! I know homeowner everytime love to save space.
No he's a scaffolder in the afternoon and doesn't have time to change into the compulsory shorts for the afternoon. Seriously though that is shocking and needs to be picked up on.
Yeah, the US doesn't have any fuse protection, saw a few service burndowns when i was in the states (wisconsin) during ice storms / heavy wind... mast pulls away from the house, cracks at the meter box hub, chafes thru, then continues to melt its way up the mast till the transformer primary fuse goes, or it burns clear!
The meter box is your property purchased by yourself when building the house and has nothing to do with the DNO, when I'm on site I make sure the DNO and meter fitter put there stuff well out of the way.
If you build your own house you purchase the meter box yourself from jewsons and fit it, the DNO don't provide the meter boxes, the box is yours and and I usually find the DNO lads are very helpful when you explain your installing a switch fuse, obviously you may not get the same cooperation on sites like wimpey sites.
The first fuse belongs to the DNO and protects the supply cable. The DNO require that a smaller (and/or faster blowing) fuse be installed when the cable through the house to the DB is longer than 3m. I believe the idea is that if you damage your extra-long-cable at some point, you're less likely to blow the DNO's fuse since you'll blow yours first.
@@TheMattSturgeon They require a fuse (though it's not a BS 7671 issue assuming that the meter tails are adequately protected by it) - however I have never heard of a stipulation that it have a lower current rating or fast blow. It's more common to have them of the same rating. Pointless I know, but such is life.
Yes but only if you're installing it. It's existing so you don't need to poke your nose in and change stuff. I see stuff like this every day, he must be so stuck for work to be dicking around with stuff like this. It's not a safety issue.
Client wanted it changing. They have spent a considerable amount of money on the house and just want it right. I’m actually booked up with work until June next year. 🤷🏻♂️
I stopped subbing about a year as it seemed like you were constantly complaining. This video was a breath of fresh air and glad it’s back to the old ways and your more positive
Sometimes one just gets fed up and burnt out, it's absolutely normal. I'd much rather see a real lad having a real day than a load of false positivity.
Would have cut the meter seal. Going on about tightening after except you’ve likely manipulated the tails out the meter to the point there slack. Cutting the meter seal with allowing you to check terminal tightness after pissing about with it would have also allowed you to not needlessly join tails. You already cut the fuse seal 🤷🏻♂️
@@robintodd3901 Look up meter security block and youll see its all fixed and potted and theres nothing to check or even get at if you wanted to. The only thing he moved was the tail ends that went into the isolator and that he redid into the henley blocks.
The jubilee clip & earthing plate are actually designed for making off an armoured cable, believe it or not... They normally get used in street-lighting cutouts. But it's not really suitable for use in a meter cupboard because you end up with single-insulated cables exposed outside a proper enclosure.
@@sidperry7748 good question. Essentially because it's accessible to non-electrically "skilled" persons. Live conductors need two layers of protection. Usually this is "basic insulation" and "double insulation". Aka the inner insulation and the outer sheath on a cable. When you strip off the outer sheath you're left with just the basic insulation, so to maintain two layers of protection the cables should be contained within an enclosure. Usually we use the term "tooled enclosure" because the rule-of-tumb is that it counts as an enclosure if you need a tool (cutters, screwdriver, etc) to open it. I'd argue that the meter box key isn't enough to make the meter box an enclosure suitable for enclosing basic insulation because it's intended to be accessed by ordinary persons.
@@TheMattSturgeon yes I agree but it is a purpose made key , you could argue that an outdoor socket is the same that only needs a screw driver to take the front off and the cables are not double insulated inside the socket back box. Thanks for the reply 👍
Great job Chris,quality tradesman 👍👏
A most superb job chris,well done sir
You done well there with the swa, difficult to manipulate in such a small space.
🕷 spider crawling on you at the end when you're sat in the van 😅🤣🤣
Did not even notice till you pointed it out
2:45 I like to pop out the DIN rail when drilling the box. Metal filings can really create a disaster in a meter box
yep i always drop the din rail out, most enclosures use keyhole slots for the din rail mounting to allow that. Makes mounting them easier too :)
Well done fantastic workmanship as always miss James tho 😎🇮🇪👏
This is happening everywhere mate, something needs to happen about it and they need stopping!
Great work mate! quick question.. you need downsize the fuse if the run is over 3 meteres?
Makes me smile........ I had a similar project and DNO wouldn't liven up cos I'd installed switch fuse in there box. Work that out DNO was SSE
Great video Chris thanks
When told that using a hose clamp was BS, someone got their acronyms mixed.
I always seal the Henley blocks myself just to guard against Joe DIY.
Wait, no James?
That spider wouldn't have passed QC if he was there 😂
As always, safety first. 👍
I recommend you should not put two black couplings. it's okay.. Great work!!!!! Thumbs up! Cheers!
5:20: I assume that the 80 fuse is for selectivity not because the tails are over 3 metres long. ? Am I correct.
I was a meter monkey for 8 years and those blocks aren't very good, BG had the bright idea to use them as they "saved time" on new connections, but theres normally inner insulation showing and or the copper doesnt reach both points of contact in the meter/cuttout.
For future reference, nippex do a great 3mm hex driver which fits in all of those isolators.
That Knippex is a great tool. The nice thing is that even when you do eventually round it off, you can simply cut off the tip with a grinder or hacksaw and hey presto, brand new tool! I also finf the T-bar style awkward if the henley blocks are near the edge of the meter box.
Third vote for the Knipex 3mm hex driver... @black fingers, nice tip about angle grinder
Fair play Chris they are such a nightmare job to do even if you work with armours every day cheers mate keep up the good work.Are you going to start swinging through the trees Spider sparks
Great shows how it should be done, new builds it would be great to install the switch fuse units as you have done, but it comes down to price, and a lot of the time the accessories fitted is spec'd by the builder not the electrician and that is the same for all trades
As a Swedish spark I can’t wrap my head around how the meter cabinets are done in England. The rules for distribution boxes seems really stringent but the meter cabinets are always a complete mess.
How could I be that there’s no regulation demanding a isolator to be installed by the supplier?
Swedish meter cabinets are all metal and designed so that all the wiring is hidden and un measured parts of the cabinets are sealed.
Incy Wincy Spider steals the show at the end ;)
35mm gland ?
Drilling with the switch and fuse carrier still in the enclosure? Where do the shards of metal go?
in time you will all figure it out😉
I also flinched slightly on that. Upside down, shaky shaky…. Now in the dogs paws.
I have a new magnet that helps
I'd have been tempted to leave the 2 pole isolator to use as a joint instead of the Henley blocks nice tidy job though
Could have been an option but it was shagged due to whoever fitted it poorly previously. Impact gun springs to mind
@@Cjrelectrical what? A meter fixer messing things up that's unheard of!!
@@Cjrelectrical those isolators are useless if you have a slightly worn hex , thats what knackers up the head.
Nice tidy job. That’s the sort of thing customers see as a “five minute job”.
Keep up the good work. 👍
That could have been a bit easier if they’d used two core SWA to start with. Never understood why people insist on using three core and one of the cores as Earth. Plenty of CSA in the armouring.
Reason for a 3 core is so you can carry your earth into your CU without glanding both ends. Most of the time developers wont allow you to run the SWA on show inside the house meaning you really cant gland the SWA. As long as the SWA is glanded at one side with a banjo its allowed which is where they end up throwing your argument out the window. New builds come with their own set of struggles, you get a lot of folk who slag off tradies on new builds but believe we all struggle to make sense of their wants and needs. You can only recommend and advise but that normally results in a 3 day delay waiting for an answer only for it to declined and then you're 3 days behind schedule.
@@chrisdobbo8938 thanks for the explanation. New builds is one area I never worked in. It sounds like a nightmare but I totally understand what you’re saying. Respect to you and anyone else who does that work. As professionals we want to do what’s right and safe but also get paid. Not an easy thing by the sounds of it.
Nice neat job.... one point I would make, is that technically although hideous as hell, single insulated cable in a meter enclosure isn't a c1 or c2, as it's inside an enclosure only accessible with a tool (the key). But not having a fuse is very naughty
Meter cabinets are to be accessed by the public so the access via a tool doesn’t apply here. Also you cannot hand over a brand new job with any recommendations.
@@Cjrelectrical i'd argue with you on the meter key on an eicr, but good point re new install
@@TheChipmunk2008 it's a box that's meant to be opened to look at a meter. It's not an electrical enclosure. You 'might' be able to argue your point semantically but you'd still be completely contrary to the intent and all common sense.
@@travoltasbiplane1551 indeed, that was my meaning when saying it TECHNICALLY complies... it was ugly as sin, but i always try to look at it from a devil's advocate point of view. Would I sign it off or be proud of it, HELL NO... could it be argued in court that it technically complied, well.. yes. As a bare minimum.
let's not forget, exposed single insulated cores were the norm for decades, which of us hasn't seen a bell transformer from the 1950s wired up with crumbly VIR thats mostly bare copper, and yet nobody's dead in the cupboard. Chris did a DAMNED fine job clearing that lot up and certainly i'd have advised the customer to let us do the same or similar.
@@TheChipmunk2008 yeah but 'technically' it doesn't. It not an enclosure it's a cupboard with electrical stuff in. I just don't like misinformation. If you'd c3 this on an eicr you're mad and should have a think about why you're doing the eicr in the first place.
Loving the videos! This isn’t a negative question but how and when did you get close to overtaking Artisan? The amount of money they must of spent on production and there’s you swinging a GoPro around 😅 loving the content
Subscriber count means nothing
Artisan lost some of my views to øy electrical and this channel. And I hate their clickbait titles.
@@oskar6747yep can’t stand that bollocks
@@oskar6747 I personally stopped watching artisan due to Jordan I feel myself cringe watching and listening to him
@@rossmuaythai funny you say that. I could never get into Artisan back when it was just/mostly Jordan.
I watched a few videos more recently when their production had improved and most videos focused on their employees. Cory in particular has a lot of chemistry on camera.
I found Jordan started to grow on me the more I watched him, nothing wrong with being a bit cringe 😂
7:10 You've got a passenger.
Nice one
Hope you got that spider off before you started driving 😮..
You're like me, "I only need a couple of tools" and half that time is spend tidying up😂
I have a stack of DeWalt tough system 2 but never have enough space 😂
Surely a 35mm grommet would have been suitable and easier than the gland at the bottom?
Where's Jim? Has he got his own channel now?
So please explain why James is missing
Given the 0.2ohm Ze and the 80A fuse you'd have made your life a lot easier using a two core SWA - do the calc and you'll find that unless the cable is 70m long then the armour would more than suffice an earth connection.
There's a few issues with this suggestion...
Firstly the cable was already run by a previous electrician. Chris was simply improving the terminations at one end of it.
Secondly, the consumer unit end of the cable was un-glanded, and it would be fairly difficult to fit a gland at that end.
Thirdly, table 54.7 requires we use 16xK₁÷K₂ to determine if a protective conductor is big enough in this case. K₁ & K₂ vary depending on if we're using 70° PVC SWA or 90° XLPE SWA, as do the respective CSAs of the steel armour.
For 70° PVC, we get 16x115÷51 = 36.1mm² minimum CSA. Luckily this cable has 60mm² of armour so would be adequate.
However for 90° XLPE, we get 16x143÷46 = 49.7mm² minimum CSA. 25mm² XLPE SWA only has 42mm² of armour, so wouldn't suffice.
Anecdotally, I've found XLPE to be more commonly available than PVC when ordering SWA. It also seems to be specified more often in electrical designs as it can handle higher temperatures.
@@TheMattSturgeon My mistake I thought he’d replaced the cable because the conductors changed to brown-grey-black but he’d just removed the sleeving.
Table 54.7 is only relevant if using Reg 543.1.4, but Reg 543.1.1 says you’re allowed to use either Reg .1.3 or .1.4. Reg 543.1.4 doesn’t take into account fault currents and protection - so it simply piggybacks on the CSA of the live conductors, but we know there’s an 80A fuse so almost certainly Reg 543.1.3 is going to give us an easier time. Even if it was a 100A fuse - worse case using the adiabatic equation would be 580A for 5 seconds [See Fig 3A1 ]. We’re given the formula
S=sqrt(I^2 *t)/k=sqrt(580^2 *5)/46=28.193mm^2.
So your 42mm^2 of armour is more than adequate. In PVC the requirement would be 25.4mm^2 which is also adequate.
Not sure what you mean by glanding, he’s fitted a gland and used a banjo to connect to the MET.
But my point is that 5 minutes of paperwork nearly always saves more than 5 minutes worth of time in money on cable and a lot of handling because a 3 core is a lot more hard work than a 2 core. Especially in meter boxes.
@@keirstitt8277 thanks for responding. I do agree with your point that a little bit of paperwork can save a lot of material and labour. The main reason for my first reply was to point out that he was re-using an existing cable.
Thanks for reminding me about 543.1.3 as that reg is so often forgotten about or not bothered with.
What I meant regarding the glanding is that Chris is re-terminating the supply end of the cable, but the load end didn't have any gland fitted by the original electrician, so you couldn't use the SWA for the CPC. Not really relevant if a new cable was being installed, as you would want to gland both ends.
@@TheMattSturgeon yep previous silly bracket was just ridiculous I've seen these a few times - you wonder what goes through people's heads.
He's definitely done the right thing putting a switch fuse. For
@@keirstitt8277 I worked for the MEB prior to privatisation and still have a copy of their detailed guidance notes for supply characteristics, PME and LV meter connections.
Craftsmanship and amazing engineering.
Nice job I think it is time now that an option was available for a slightly larger meter cabinet to be available for situations where the con unit is going to be installed remote from the meter then everything can live in there in harmony rather than being a tight squeeze or having to install a separate cabinet alongside
You can buy meter boxes for 3 phase installations that are bigger
I got DNO approval for small metal cabinets that go next to new build foundations and these have more room in them than the rubbish GRP units. We get the heads installed really early. Meter then goes in later when we want power. We then run armoured in a duct under the slab to the CU.
So what happens to the original crap installer? I see this all the time (amongst other shockers) and my local council (Torridge) do nothing. Cowboy electrical / building companies down my way, and they get away with it because the hide behind Part-P.
Nice upgrade, I personally would have sealed up the Henley blocks, the cabinet is at kid height and kids love exploring.
Give them a flat blade screwdriver and a meter key for Christmas
@@Cjrelectrical don't be silly, put them on a fast track 6 week electrical course first.
@@stuartthespark looks like the original installer pulled out at week 4.
You can’t be serious ( kids height ? ) Jesus so what is a socket then ? Perhaps we should seal sockets in the house 🤔
Screw caps and glue 😉
Great video ...Where's James?
At least they used swa and not just tails dragged up the cavity and then laid across the ceiling running over to the other side of the house.
Good old pablo 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Its that age old saying, integrity is doing the right thing when nobody is watching. Unfortunately loads don't give a rats ass
Did the spider take James?
Yeah
Nobody saw that spider on his jacket😂
When we find swa not properly terminated at tails end.👀🔥🤓🔨👨🔧😣😣
Why the first electrician do not make it correctly? Why they must pay more £ to have a correct build? Why do you not change this box to a bigger one. It is soooooo small! I know homeowner everytime love to save space.
Прикольный ручной паук с тобой ездит на заявки 🤣 его зовут James
Good job nice to see somebody put this type of rubbish right. Seen this before very poor…
Very brave to work with shorts in this weather LOL🥶
He's nuts ... in Belgium we had -2 this week ... no way i would work in shorts outside 🙂
No he's a scaffolder in the afternoon and doesn't have time to change into the compulsory shorts for the afternoon. Seriously though that is shocking and needs to be picked up on.
Chris & 8 legged friend
looks a bit different that the SoCal meter mains.. sparky
Yeah, the US doesn't have any fuse protection, saw a few service burndowns when i was in the states (wisconsin) during ice storms / heavy wind... mast pulls away from the house, cracks at the meter box hub, chafes thru, then continues to melt its way up the mast till the transformer primary fuse goes, or it burns clear!
I’m pretty sure you can’t fit that Sw fuse in the meter box. It should be in separate box above. 🤷🏼♂️
The meter box is your property purchased by yourself when building the house and has nothing to do with the DNO, when I'm on site I make sure the DNO and meter fitter put there stuff well out of the way.
@@lansdorf I beg to differ.
@@lansdorf Can the occupant or you legally cut the seal? Nope, so you own what?
If you build your own house you purchase the meter box yourself from jewsons and fit it, the DNO don't provide the meter boxes, the box is yours and and I usually find the DNO lads are very helpful when you explain your installing a switch fuse, obviously you may not get the same cooperation on sites like wimpey sites.
@@lansdorf The ENA say you can’t fit any other item in the meter box. If you do they can remove the cut out fuse until the new item fitted is removed.
Why does it require two fuses?
The first fuse belongs to the DNO and protects the supply cable. The DNO require that a smaller (and/or faster blowing) fuse be installed when the cable through the house to the DB is longer than 3m.
I believe the idea is that if you damage your extra-long-cable at some point, you're less likely to blow the DNO's fuse since you'll blow yours first.
@@TheMattSturgeon They require a fuse (though it's not a BS 7671 issue assuming that the meter tails are adequately protected by it) - however I have never heard of a stipulation that it have a lower current rating or fast blow. It's more common to have them of the same rating. Pointless I know, but such is life.
Why no James?
Sacked
Spider
Why did you change it? It's technically inside an enclosure so it really wasn't that bad.
I think you'll need an extra fuse when the meter tails are longer than 3m but I am not a sparky so Not sure 100%
Tails over 3m so needed protected with a fuse
Yes but only if you're installing it. It's existing so you don't need to poke your nose in and change stuff. I see stuff like this every day, he must be so stuck for work to be dicking around with stuff like this. It's not a safety issue.
Client wanted it changing. They have spent a considerable amount of money on the house and just want it right. I’m actually booked up with work until June next year. 🤷🏻♂️
@@Cjrelectrical Wanted it changing after you made a big fuss about it?
Jubilee clips replacing SWA glands ? Nothing new, seen that done in lamp posts that were installed 20 years ago. Clips all rusted up.
Where's James gone?
Gone to work for a proper electrician 😂😂
Where's James
Maybe he's dead 🤔
Sacked
What happened to James lol
Got sacked for putting the jubilee clip on the swa. Watch the last video all is explained there
Where in the last video does it say about James..
.
Chris doesnt actually say it but you can see it in his eyes
@@funhaus_crew oh dear
@@funhaus_crew James didn't do that. The original installer did it.
I stopped subbing about a year as it seemed like you were constantly complaining. This video was a breath of fresh air and glad it’s back to the old ways and your more positive
Sometimes one just gets fed up and burnt out, it's absolutely normal.
I'd much rather see a real lad having a real day than a load of false positivity.
Wheres James too ?
Sacked
Would have cut the meter seal. Going on about tightening after except you’ve likely manipulated the tails out the meter to the point there slack. Cutting the meter seal with allowing you to check terminal tightness after pissing about with it would have also allowed you to not needlessly join tails. You already cut the fuse seal 🤷🏻♂️
It’s an anti tamper block buddy it’s got solid twisted copper cores inside the resin block!
Even if the power's off, the meter will record tampering if you remove the cover.
@@Monkeh616 tamper or not I feel I’m justified and duty bound after moving the tails about to make sure the connection are adequately tight.
I haven’t moved the tails it’s a solid block of resin with solid copper.
@@robintodd3901 Look up meter security block and youll see its all fixed and potted and theres nothing to check or even get at if you wanted to. The only thing he moved was the tail ends that went into the isolator and that he redid into the henley blocks.
Would not please me before or after.
Piss poor installation by dno , no phase disc or pme label
Pronounce your tees.
Cup of ea?
Oh no where is James you sold him to arabs for a fiver. Nice that you went back to fic the issue
No James! Unsubscribe
Seriously, no more James? You’ll have to get yourself another stooge then because it makes everything just so much better.
Do it
Lol Chris. Its a shame you can not take a joke. Subscribe.👍🏻
Andrew when was my birthday?
@@Cjrelectrical are house bashers allowed to celebrate birthdays?
Seriously, a jubilee clip. FFS.
The jubilee clip & earthing plate are actually designed for making off an armoured cable, believe it or not... They normally get used in street-lighting cutouts.
But it's not really suitable for use in a meter cupboard because you end up with single-insulated cables exposed outside a proper enclosure.
@@TheMattSturgeon I'm not an electrician but why isn't the meter cupboard a proper enclosure?
@@sidperry7748 good question. Essentially because it's accessible to non-electrically "skilled" persons.
Live conductors need two layers of protection. Usually this is "basic insulation" and "double insulation". Aka the inner insulation and the outer sheath on a cable. When you strip off the outer sheath you're left with just the basic insulation, so to maintain two layers of protection the cables should be contained within an enclosure.
Usually we use the term "tooled enclosure" because the rule-of-tumb is that it counts as an enclosure if you need a tool (cutters, screwdriver, etc) to open it.
I'd argue that the meter box key isn't enough to make the meter box an enclosure suitable for enclosing basic insulation because it's intended to be accessed by ordinary persons.
@@TheMattSturgeon yes I agree but it is a purpose made key , you could argue that an outdoor socket is the same that only needs a screw driver to take the front off and the cables are not double insulated inside the socket back box.
Thanks for the reply 👍
Not a lot wrong alothough it's shit?
That well know gland size 35mm