Huakko APS 3005D 30V 5A Power Supply - Review Part 2 Teardown and Repair of this DoA Unit
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- Опубликовано: 15 сен 2024
- This video is the 2nd part of my review of the "Huakko APS 3005D" power supply. I tear down the power supply to take a closer look at the internals and the build quality. Afterwards i take a guess at it's internal functions.
All the while I'm looking for a reason why this power supply isn't working. After identifying the failure mode I'm trying to repair this DoA power supply.
All in all, I can't recommend this power supply, it has too many weaknesses.
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Exactly the same problem - thanks very much for sharing your experience - much appreciated
I'm glad it was useful, thank you for watching
Thanks K-Tech. I have also recently received one of these damaged. Again, it was a broken pot. Also the display board had separated from the front panel, with all four mounting posts broken off. This is ignoring the severely distorted frame resulting presumable from a drop somewhere during shipping.
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I have bought a similar power supply, it used to make those clicks which I don't even know what they represent, and now it has stopped making those clicks when I raise the voltage, and it doesn't go above 15V even though it should go to 30V. Does anyone know what the problem is?
Hello, I also have the 3005D my problem now is that there is a deviation in the voltage from the display to the output. The higher I set the voltage, the greater the deviation. Can you help me with that?
hi... i have loadstar LP3005D (30V 5A) dc supply machine.. the problem is Voltage is increasing up to 12V only.. changed potentiometer and relays still same issue.. kindly help
Excellent, subscribed.
I have a different problem.my dc power supply voltage goes 0 to 60v that wasn't like that before when I was using it.so i have to replaced the mosfet transistor on the voltage side just one i hope it works again when I fix it.i have a question can you change the transformer to 50v transformer.
Sir i'm from indonesia,
i've same problem with my aps 3005 too "VOLTAGE can not On",
But few different with your video,,, i mean my APS3005 The RED LIGHT on Current LED always show RED,
although i try to rotate the potensio voltage, and the current LED still show RED. The Voltage not coming.
i try to replace the L7812CV transistor and the two of power transistor, all of Potensio.. and The Voltage still not coming
The RED LED current still shiny.
I think my PSU short on the componen,
Can you tell me, where the spesific problem if RED light current always ON ??,
I have a large transformer (3.8 Kg) with 40-0-40 VAC output at 6 A. I would like to put it to good use. My problem is that when bridge rectified and filtered, that becomes 60-0-60 DC and my front end DP30V5A programmable display/regulator only takes 40 VDC as an input. I didn't understand power supplies enough to know that it would go higher in DC volts after filtering, not the same or lower.
How would I correctly reduce my filtered 60 VDC to 40 VDC and still allow 5 A current? A solution for just one 60 volt rail, not both, would be OK.
You probably measured the AC output of the transformer with a multimeter, which usually use TRMS (True Root Mean Square) or RMS to measure the AC voltage, which represents the DC equivalent of the work it can do, not the actual peak AC voltage! The actual peak AC voltage is roughly square root of 2 higher, so 40V * 1,4142 = 57V so roughly the 60V you measured after rectifying. But this is only the open circuit voltage of the transformer! Transformers are usually specified under load conditions not open circuit. Under full load the DC voltage will go down to 40V. You need to figure out what the specified maximum input voltage of the regulator is and clamp the DC output of your transformer down to that, but this will be inefficient.
Hello Sir, Do you have schematic of this power supply? if not can i have clear photo of both side ?
I think you should design your own power supply, so don’t have to many issues like this.
I have the same Problem now
bevor was the cement Ressitance at my Power supplay has touched the alumenium plate
display was on jumping between 30-40v and has made (clack) sounds all the time
I fixed that
but now I have the same problem as you
If the Huakko power supply doesn't react to input, you should definitely check out the trimmers. One of them might be broken. This power supply has a lot of issues and I'm sorry to hear of your continuous troubles with you unit.
Thanks for your video
I have solved my Problem
was the same as yours
exactly the same Poti Broken
K TECH i got the 1503DD+ 15v 3amp model. it said in the description that it was for mobile phone repair but i wanted it for zinc plating but it doesn't work for that it just bleeps & flashes if i try to use it for zinc plating but it does work for like powering bulbs moters anything that runs on electricity but it wont for zinc plating could you tell me why this could be please? ? ? Its like if i touch the both wire's together thats how it is acting if i use it for zinc plating i just get no power but if i disconnect it from the zinc plating bath i can get it too power bulbs or anything but it wont work for what i bought it for in the first place zinc plating bike parts ? ? ? i dont get it anyone no why this could be please & that little plug that was bent on the back of the lcd display mine was like that too buddy
Hi, making a correct diagnosis from afar is nearly impossible, but lets give it a try anyway. If you say that the power supply works fine with other electronic loads, I'm assuming it is in good working order. These power supplies usually have two operating modes C.V. for constant voltage and C.C. for constant current. Make sure that the power supply is turned all the way up to 3A in C.C. Since electroplating requires a lot of current, your application might simply be overloading the power supply, try reducing the plated area and/or dilute the electrolyte solution. Try coating a small piece first, see if that works. Check the data sheet of your zinc electrolyte for the required specs. A power resistor and a cheap PC ATX power supply might be a good alternative, since they can easily output 30A on the 3,3V rail. There are a lot of instructional videos on electroplating on youtube, give them a try.
@@k-tech796 ok thanks for reply buddy i will try some of the option's you said
Can you tell me how much is it??
Hallo! du sprichst doch Deutsch oder!? Bin auf der suche nach einem günsigen Labornetzteil. Da mein Wissen aktuell im Elektonik bereich noch in den anfängen liegt, suche ich ein NT das ich auch irrgent wann mal selbst reparieren kann. Lineare Netzteile auf Basis Lm317 oder dem LM723 habe ich relativ gut verstanden vom Aufbau und Funktion. SMPS dagegen sind mir noch nicht 100% klar, verstehe zwar den groben aufbau aber viel mehr auch nicht. Ich will damit anfangen kleiner Projekt im Audio bereich zu realisieren und mich im bereich Elektronik weiter entwickeln. Ich habe mit dem Gedanken gespielt ein NT selbst zubauen auf Basis LM723, allerdings kostet alleine ein Standart 1 tab 24v 100VA Trafo schon 30-35 Euro. Wenn dann noch der Rest dazu kommt ist man alleine mit teilen ohne Gehäuse schon bei 45-50 euro. Das APS 3005D gibts für 38 euro!! Würde davon dann 2 zusammen schalten wollen für +-0-30V . Kann man das NT dafür bzw meinen bereich empfehlen?
German by chance? Never give a German a cheap Chinese product to review 😁 Whatever the case I can feel your frustration.
You would be better off replacing the potentiometer rather than repairing it
Yes!
Wow.. this look very bad built...