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How to Test and Replace an Alternator Clutch Pulley
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- Опубликовано: 6 фев 2017
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Removal tool shown in this video amzn.to/2HS2uyZ
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Thank you for the video. the instructions are as clear as they get.
I cannot get why all those thumbs down.
Best narration , best instructions, clear and easy to understand. Best vid on clutch pulley ever❤️👍
It’s 5 years old vid but I appreciative it so much the most clear explanation to follow and the direction on how to remove this pretty hard tight pulley yes I was struggling but this VID helped a lot ! Thank you so much
Great video - Mine was making a really loud noise and was gone at 63,000 miles - very easy to understand tutorial also - well done and thanks.
What a job... My hands are blistered, yet quite satisfying. Thanks!!
Very good explanation and I've been your follower all these years. Thank you so much.
That's funny, I just did this yesterday on my 2003 V70 140 bhp petrol and it was exactly the same procedure. It was becoming noisy and had to be replaced. To get the tool in easier I removed the screw holding the AC pipe bracket. The pipe could then be lifted slightly providing more access for the tool. I had a slightly different inner part of the tool for the alternator axle which meant I had to use a 10 mm spanner, which unfortunately bent in the process of trying to loosen the pulley. Replaced it with a quality 10 mm Kamasa spanner and it came off right away. Thanks for posting. Always enjoying your videos.
+Fly4happiness Thank you for taking the time to comment.
Thank you ever so much for this video (and all the other ones)!!!!!
BE PREPARED to take out the whole alternator! With the small centre tool it was impossible to loosen the pulley (Gedore blue 12mm spanner slipping and bowing, Knipex plier wrench closed with bolts slipping and being damaged)
After taking out the whole alternator (not to difficult to do) i could finally loosen it with the longer tool with the socket adapter and an extended ratched. The outer tool with a 22mm spanner and a metal pipe
Try getting off a meriva b 1.7 cdti 131 bhp alternator off (bloody nightmare)
Very good instruction in all details. Just have reconditioned alternator on my D5 and surprisingly after 290k brushes were still 70% of original lenght.
so what did the reconditoning consist of then?
Thank you, host, this video really helped me as a beginner mecanik, thank you as much as possible
One of the best explanations so far on YT for alternator pulley removal.
For anybody wanting to test their CLUTCH PULLEY or ALTERNATOR OVERRUN PULLEY as it’s also called.....
Open and secure hood.
With the engine running, slightly press the accelerator while out of gear to say a few thousand rpm.
Immediately after accelerating ,turn engine off....and LISTEN for the freewheeling pulley .
If you can hear the alternator still spinning and slowly winding down, then your pulley is good.
Signs of a bad pulley and clutch is excessive serpentine belt rattle and it is NOT the belt tensioner...which is the first thing that comes to ones mind.
Good luck everyone.
I had an issue with my ML chewing through serpentine belts. It turned out that someone mixed organic and synthetic ATF in my power-steering and its pump was getting stuck. While flushing it out, I checked all the pulleys and all seemed fine except my alternator. The alternator's pulley wiggled when I pushed. I hoped to drive the car home but then the alternator wouldn't charge. The car is now at the beach house about 400km from home. I was looking at sourcing a replacement or going back, taking out the old one and having that refurbished at home and taking it the 400km back again. However, after watching this and reading your comment I wonder if this might fix the problem. Is there any other reason why the pulley might be able to wiggle?
I tried this test and it was spot on. The thing I'm a little worried about is that when I rev it up (step on the gas, release and repeat), I can hear the pulley winding down as I release the gas and engine rev goes down. I had the clutch pulley replaced already but I can still hear the winding down sound almost over the noise the engine makes when I do this. Is that normal?
Wish I had found this video before removing the alternator. Thanks for noting the pulley threads are left handed (CW to loosen). I never had a car with this type of pulley. My pulley slips in both directions. Much cheaper fix than the whole alternator.
Glad it helped. The beauty of a lot of these alternators is that the individual components can be changed or cleaned up without wholesale replacement of the alternator.
The brush pack/regulator, slip rings, rectifier and pulley can all be replaced for considerably less.
@@sirobb this video seems to show normal RH threads ? ruclips.net/video/j-RByaWsms4/видео.htmlsi=CeD4va0CSKS7QZRl&t=842
Nice video well done an explained. I'll drop my 2 cents on the way out. That's the perfect time to check the alternator bearings! Usually if one goes, the other ones are not very far. That's close enough to make you work twice to solve a similar problem. So have a look at it while it's convenient. Saving time! Cheers
what part is that ?
great vid and you saved me $500 (cost of new alternator) but one little thing ,when I jammed my alternator as you said ,it did exactly what you said, it locked in one direction and spun in the other but I was pretty sure this clutch was my problem so I jiggled it a few times while trying to turn it and guess what ?? it gave way and spun ,so ,sneaky little bugger was intermittent so dont believe your first test ,try it a few times.
Great video - Worth mentioning again that the pulley is a left handed thread that undoes in the opposite direction to a normal thread - ie the pulley undoes in a clockwise direction (viewed from the front face). Mine was as tight as SiRobb said it would be - Needs a lot of force to get it undone which is not easy with a small spanner.... Find an extension tube before you start!
my mechanic just changed the very same alternator freewheel pulley... and i have the "faulty existing part" and it is according to the video the pulley is in good condition.. it free turning on one direction and locked on another direction..
got conned by car mechanic ..
andrew
@@andrewyek Better safe than sorry. If that pulley goes while you're driving, you'll be left dead on the road.
VERY EDUCATIVE. THANK YOU
Great stuff in doing this very soon seen as iv been getting vibration in the car so bad you would assume dmf with the noise but after inspection the vibration is the tensioner and belt flapping so clutch pulley is getting done at the same time, thanks for the helpful video.
Informative video my friend, I changed mine at 86k as the recommended service is 60K to 80k.
Thank you for the explanation, it was really helpful.👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks, very good explanation.
Great video,thank you sir!
Thank you so much bro - massively helpful :)
Hendrix wasn’t synonymous with using a Super Reverb, he is known to have owned one that was kept in a studio.
Simon that is a great vid.
My son car had the Pulley come off the Alternator during motion, but when I look at the alternator that I removed it has the 33 splines teeth but seems to have an 6MM Hex head in centre of spindle so it looks as if very similar fitting but not a Torx head its a Denso 9472908
La Chien Hi and thanks for the comment.
Yes the fitting can vary between different alternator makes and there are kits available with a larger range of attachments.
If the clutch mechanism seizes, it can unscrew the pulley completely which sounds like what might have happened with your son's.
great info. don t understand how somebody cannot like it.
A really great explanation. Thanks!
Nice clear video.good work
So the inverter six point star is end of alternator shaft,not a bolt that needs to be removed?
Sadly I just found out on the Euro5 version, there is no room to get a tool in, you have to remove the alternator, and you have to remove the air intake and the oil filter housing just to get barely enough room to pull the alternator out.
Nearly gave up removing the pulley. It took about 5 minutes with a powerful impact wrench to get it off. The back face of the pulley had rusted onto the mating surface
Hey mate, thanks for this. Under advisement I’ve ordered a new pulley. My symptoms on my RAV4 are that I have flickering/intermittent dash lights, battery being one of them. Apparently a tell tale sign with Toyota?
I’m hoping so anyway 🤞🏻
Great video, thanks.
VERY EDUCATIVE. THANK YOU REGARDS
Great video 👍
Thanks rob
good video!!
Great video Si. Thanks! One question though - how did you tighten the pulley to the correct torque after fitting? Can't see how to use a torque wrench whilst also stopping the alternator shaft from turning ...
I've manually torqued up bolts with similar requirements many times so I used my experience to take an educated guess at the required torque for the pulley and 5 years on, all is still well.
If you want absolute certainty and accuracy with a torque wrench, if you can't cobble together a crow's foot spanner arrangement to do it in situ, you'll have to remove the alternator.
@@sirobb Great, thanks! 👍🏻
SiRob is God!
Great tutorial, thanks. I guess you were planning to return the spanner to Halfords afterwards ;o)
Thomas Emmett Your comment could have only been written by someone who has done similar. 👍☺️
Very clear 👍
Thank you for your video it learn me something interesting
very ggod video. i am about to take the belt off and see whats going on. the tensioner pulley is jumping a lot
the volume was fuked...but a good video...explains how to do it really well...thanks
When I turn my alternator the way it charges with the screwdriver blocking the turbine, sometimes it will spin but then lock. Does that mean it’s bad (Honda civic 2019)
Great vid, thanks
thank you for this video. very helpful
Appreciate it
Hi, Changed the pulley, but the serpentine belt doesn't go back on the place, it's to short.
And the new pulley is a bit too big.
How did you fit that part?
How do you know if you must turn the Pully clock or anticlockwise?
how long is that M10 ?
I have one that looks the same,but I cant get it in ...it's 65mm lenght...there is some pipe going exactly in front so it's too tight
I don't know from which car brands you took that pulley, but seems that 'locking the cooling fan trick' doesn't work on Hyundai, there is no bearing into the pulley itself, only the alternator shaft is able to spin.
Hello. Asking if the motor and clutch can be use as curtain motor .. clutch will be use when power or current is not present.
Great vid Si👍👍
I bought a new alt. clutch pulley and the spline tool for my 2004 XC90 T6 - but realised the clearance is crazy tight - I don't suppose anyone has done this on T6 without removing the alternator itself first? Namo Amituofo
And if i have metal dust near the pulley can i be ok just changing the pulley or should i prepare for all the alternator?It makes stabil 14V like it should make
Great video. many thanks
Good video
Great video. I just discovered, my belt is slipping and making awful noise just when I turn my steering wheel the left lock. I believe there is a lack of spins and revolutions which indicates bad alternator pulley. What would you think? Thank you
Power steering belt not correctly tensioned or power steering pump needs replacing.
My V70 has same problem I swap it by 4 hours my original one has clutch slippage now I got it after one year later I want to fixed it.
Can you rebuild these? Mine locks with the screwdriver test but there is a little bit of give. Wondering if it's going out as I'm having charging problems. Trying to clean connections first before I replace alternator/pulley. The alternator tested good when I took it to auto parts store
A very much doubt they can be rebuilt either easily or economically.
High quality replacements can be had from around £20 brand new.
Thanks for the great video. What could be the cause of the alternator undercharging?
For example - I'm only getting 10.5 volts at the moment
I have 3 alternator testing videos but with such a low voltage output, I would start with the 3 tests shown in this one ruclips.net/video/dhf6IdBbE3Y/видео.html
Read the video description first.
Very good, thank you. I just finished watching that one. I grabbed my multimeter & went to test it as shown in the video. I’m driving a 2009 bwm 335i, and I just changed the battery last week. I have been studying for how to continue fixing it since. The battery I just installed was brand new, but I wasn’t able to start my car just now. It was starting a few days ago however. Since it wasn’t starting now though I wasn’t able to do the tests on the alternator.
I believe it may be an electrical issue also. The car has something called IBS (intelligent battery system), which is contained in the negative terminal cable that connects to the battery. It monitors the battery & provides charging instruction to the alternator based on battery usage. The IBS runs consistently even when the car is off; so it’s drawing power from the battery frequently.
With the car off I just decided to use the multimeter on the battery (w/ the positive & negative terminals connected). I believe that w/ this test I could learn how much voltage the IBS was sending to the battery.
The multimeter read 5.5 volts.
I then did a different test & removed both the positive & negative cables connected on the battery in order to test the battery again w/ the multimeter (the battery wasn’t connected to the car at all at this point).
This time the multimeter gave me 10.5 volts.
I’m still going to need to test the alternator, but I think I’ll need to change the battery again (or charge it) & likely even the IBS cables. I’m currently doing research on how to diagnose the IBS also.
Thank you so much though.
Hope you enjoyed the story a little bit
That is where we are at at the moment :)
No problem. I'd check all of my alternator videos especially part 1 dealing with voltage drop and I have a separate specific parasitic drain test video which will show exactly what the drain is on the battery when the car is shut down.
I'm not overly familiar with BMW cars (I have a bike though) but I also know that some models need the battery monitoring resetting with a diagnostic tool following battery replacement so look into that also.
@@sirobb I will take a look for both of them my friend. And yes, I did use the INPA tool to register the new battery & code it for the difference in CCA, etc. Thank you for the heads up.
So you got replacement from Amazon?
I just recieved an INA pulley and the dust cover was installed already and refuses to come off!
How would you no if it was causing charging issues, what would I look for on the pulley, thanks
I explain in the video.
Hi Sirobb,
I've got a creaking and squealing coming from the area, but it sounds more like it's coming from the power steering pump. Should I be able to move this freely with the belt off and presumably no play? I'm guessing if that's the problem a whole new pump would be required, not just a pulley?
Here's a quick video. Not sure what's normal and what isn't: ruclips.net/video/tv5Hq8fL_f0/видео.html
Late comment... If the pulley tests OK. Why replace it?
Because at more than 10 years old, the pulley won't be ok forever.
Good video but need an expensive tool to do the job. Easier and cheaper to replace the whole alternator
How does the pulley lock in the drive direction? Does it use a pawl to lock on teeth?
I don't know.
hello, i have oil or grease flying around near the alternator pulley, there is oil inside the pulley??
Because the pulley is a bearing, it does contain a small amount of grease but this is well sealed away and wouldn't be enough to cause any noticeable mess if it did leak out.
Your leak will almost certainly be oil or power steering fluid so clean the area thoroughly to help see where the leak may be coming from and what the leaking fluid is.
Without jamming a screwdriver inside the alternator should the pulley be able to free spin in both directions?
Yes
@@sirobb thanks, mine only free spins in the opposite direction of the belt movement, just wanted to confirm the pulley is the problem before I replace it (big pain for my car). Thanks.
Good info cheers:)
Sorry but I'm confused. Are you turning the 12mm clockwise to loosen it while holding the 21mm in place.?
No, exactly the opposite.
Explained from 6:10 and I'm not sure I can add any more detail to what's already in the video.
This is for a *reverse thread* clutch pulley and alternator shaft.
@@sirobb OK, I got confused at 4.38. I messed up and striped the shaft by turning the 12mm clockwise. My car is an opel corsa.
What size is the tool that locks the alternator shaft please
Everything is in the video.
I want this special. What isa the name how to order online?
Did you disconnect the negative cable on the battery before working on the alternator?
No not in this video because I wasn't working on or near any live components.
If you are ever unsure of the risk, you should err on the side of caution and remove the battery negative lead.
It's T50 torx 50
not an M10..... I'm curious what it says on the socket part the silver headed part.
3:43 It really couldn't be any more clearer that I use an M10
Sorry I zoomed in now...
I can see that it's 12 point spline which is M not T like you say 👍
I've got a euro 3 D5 xc70. Mine won't turn either way with the screwdriver in. Is it gubbed?
If it doesn't turn one way as shown in the video, it's knackered.
@@sirobb cheers. Add that to the ever increasing list lol
THANK YOU! Great video!
Hi Simon, great video. Can you clarify if you have to remove the aux belt or not (D5244T engine)?
dickonprior Hello again Dickon.
Yes the auxiliary belt tensioner must be locked off and the belt removed.
In my list of videos, there's a specific D5 auxiliary belt change/removal video.
abviously he dd
HI Simon! What is difference between M10 and T50?
The noise in my Volvo XC60 seems to be coming from the alternator area. I can't verify it, but I am glad to know that the pulley might be what's wrong.
Can you tell me what the sounds were like that prompted you to repair it? Mine is a squealing that does it at idle, but goes away as I accelerate? Does that sound like a pulley?
Doug Moody A chirping noise at idle which disappears at higher revs can be a sign of a failing pulley but it's not definitive and it certainly doesn't tell you which pulley is failing.
As shown in the video, you need to get the belt off and inspect more closely.
That happened on my Bmw 335i I replaced all pulleys and motor band but the squeaky sound still there so I hope it’s the alternator pulley good video
What is a ''motor band" ? 4 Oct 18; adriansnare@gmail.com
I don't know about 20lbs British but the one I'm changing costs over $220.00 american
£20 not lbs 😂
Bravo
l want the same box from whan to get at
hi , ive watched a few of your vids very good , would like to know if you do servicing etc
I do sometimes. Depends on location, availability and what needs doing.
@@sirobb thanks for swift reply , ive only just got my v70 nothing really needs doing at present , im based in bolton but could travel to you maybe a service in summer
why are you replacing it if its ok ?
He said it still worked but felt rough .
The alternator rotate counterclockwise right?
It depends on your car so look at yours spinning.
If car turns off when disconnecting battery cable the alternator is bad and that's what happen to my car.
After watching your video I forced the pulley clockwise trying to undo it. Now cant even get it off. I should have tried to watch other videos before moving forward fml
Lol its because that one ran opposite. You should have checked what way yours rotated before you took the belt off
Whats the point of that clutch, never seen that before, engine rotates same direction anyways
On the car in this video, the crank pulley rotates clockwise and the alternator rotates counter clockwise so they don't rotate the same way.
@@sirobb That is because of the belt path, and has nothing to do with OAP
Yes I know. I was replying to the comment saying that the engine and alternator run in the same direction.
The overrunning/clutch mechanism is there to smooth out the differences in rotational speeds between the crank and alternator.
Must have expressed my thoughts wrong, i see your point
How much strength do u need to remove the pulley? I tried removing it and the m10 cracked inside the pulley. What can I do now?
pascal garcia by now I hope you have it off just been through the same process without using the inside tool with only the outside tool I gave it a quick zap with a (impact gun) air tool it come off like you I broke the 10 mm bit so had to do something and it worked
I also broke T50 tip inside the pulley when trying to remove it. Will try the impact gun.
Simon, where did you get the pulley from for £20?
Tim Haynes Autodoc in Germany. Takes about a week to arrive but I plan ahead with my maintenance so no problem.
Thanks, will take a look. Need one for our d5 xc90.
Tim Haynes This is the page and it's currently £23.62 m.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/generator-alternator-parts-10452/volvo/s60/s60-i/16110-2-4-d5
Their pricing structure is a little bizarre with lesser quality makes priced higher but obviously check with your specific vehicle details.
With a little effort, you can save a small fortune and having Vida definitely helps as it contains every part number for your car so cross referencing is straightforward.
Yes, seems to be same part number as comes up for the xc90. Many thanks.
what kind of car is it???
Why is the car type relevant?
Volvo with D5 engine?
Pulley cost plus the pulley tools are about the same as a new alternator .🤔
You must be buying some sh**ty quality alternators then. 😊
J
Hey si what model and year is that
S60 2002
@@sirobb i was wondering if it was the same sealey pulley tools to use for my 2004 v70
@@ericsanimeshorts Yes, the same tool. 👍🏾
@@sirobb Thanks Si top man