Alternator Decoupler Pulley repair HOW THEY WORK fix
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2023
- Overrunning Pulley Rebuild
Stuff I used in the video:
Decoupler pulley REMOVER kit: amzn.to/3RArgGV
DODGE Chrysler Pulley I bought: amzn.to/3Px9ZM9
FLUX CAPACITOR Delorean owners only: amzn.to/3PUvGXU
After Thoughts about the Video: The part I bought is cheap but that means it's likely cheaply made. I will buy a bearing, rebuild this one and keep it on the shelf for future use.
HOW IT WORKS is slightly different than I said on the video. After looking it over extensively, the thick spring inside only purpose it to dampen the blow from the belt turning the pulley to the alternator's resistance to turning. So this would reduce vibrations and extent belt life. The outside skinny spring is always binding outwards with the pulley; keeping it locked. So default is pulley locked. Reverse rotation coils up that smaller spring and reduces it's size, disengaging the pulley. I looked it over extensively off camera and I came to the conclusion these are dry assemblies. Any lubrication(other than bearing) would hinder it's operation.
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HOW IT WORKS is slightly different than I said on the video. After looking it over extensively, the thick spring inside only purpose it to dampen the blow from the belt turning the pulley to the alternator's resistance to turning. So this would reduce vibrations and extent belt life. The outside skinny spring is always binding outwards with the pulley; keeping it locked. So default is pulley locked. Reverse rotation coils up that smaller spring and reduces it's size, disengaging the pulley. I looked it over extensively off camera and I came to the conclusion these are dry assemblies. Any lubrication(other than bearing) would hinder it's operation.
Stuff I used in the video:
Decoupler pulley REMOVER kit: amzn.to/3RArgGV
DODGE Chrysler Pulley I bought: amzn.to/3Px9ZM9
FLUX CAPACITOR Delorean owners only: amzn.to/3PUvGXU
Awesome! Tnx :)
😂found the short bus rider
Just a classic wrap spring clutch. This is not for MPG but because the engine can decelerate so fast in shifts, the alternator keeps driving the belt and all the belt renstiins reverse and you throw the belt or the belt squeaks at the shift point.
Replaced the alternator on our Dodge as the coupler went bad and it was $100 for the pulley and $160 for a lifetime alternator with the pulley.
It's supposed to increase belt life, but the idlers died and destroyed the belt less than 5000 miles before that.
It's supposed to help reduce rotating mass for shifts, but 3 idlers, a tensioner, water pump, power steering pump, AC compressor all tell me it's BS.
Just another part to replace.
Please document yourself before doing this non-technical videos. For your information, there is a LOT of grease inside and it still works.
Best channel on RUclips!!! Thanks for the great content!!! I grew up kind of poor and had to learn to fix things for my self. Your channel has been such a big help!
Wow, thanks!
Lol
Good bro 😊
Very cool! I always appreciate your inclination to take something apart and figure out a fix or replacement. I’ve come to the conclusion that many times it’s just parts that a human assembled and I can duplicate it if I have the patience to examine it carefully enough to figure out how it goes together.
Very true.
Good bro
I love the clip of you and Ginger trail riding at the end! It is wonderful to see someone love their dog as much as you do.
She's a great co-pilot in life.
Nice bro 😊
Watch for Mo; Stay for Ginger.
Best comment Stans! 👍👍🏁
Nice bro 😊
Super topic for a video! I never had to replace one of these nor have I personally had a issue with one…yet! If I do, I am using your fix idea. $20 vs $300-$1000. It’s a no brainer! Thanks man!
Very cool! Always enjoy breaking down old parts to find what the failure was. I haven't had the joy of seeing or dealing with this style of pulley. Thank you!
Nice
Make sure which way the pulley catches and which way it freewheels BEFORE you disassemble it.
You don't want it freewheeling in the wrong direction when you put the springs in backwards.
That would be a fun one to diagnose.
Always a treat when you post a new video! Haven't worked on modern cars in a while, but if I do, I'm more informed because of your video. Thanks!
Thanks.
Good bro 😊
Man your a good teacher, God Bless You.
Thank you. Always LOVE to see how things work. If we don't know, diagnosing issues is next to impossible. You RoCK!
Cool info.! I retired in 2019 from the auto research industry. This 1-way clutch makes sense for fuel economys sake but reduces longevity & makes things nore complex. I want to build up an old school, carbureted, front engine, middle transmission, driveshaft & rear differential car & keep it simple.... I'll keep dreaming.... Thanks for the tech. & your channel ! Paul
I am old school and retired also. Just fixed mine (Dodge Caravan) by welding the two halves together. Easy Rob
I like the way you think
Thanks for the education on the de-coupler clutch. I've been working on cars since the early 60's and have never run into this failure. I didn't even know the pulley was a clutch. Now I even know that you CAN repair them. You have just shown an old dog a new trick. I'm 76 and still learning. In my life I have re-built engines, auto and manual trannys, rear ends, brakes, drive shafts, alternators, starters, etc - virtually every system in a car or truck, and you just taught me something. I give this video 5 stars, and have subscribed.
Thanks. I had no idea these existed either until a few years ago. Crazy engineering on everything these days.
Good bro 😊
I’ve spent countless hours pulling stuff apart just to see how it works too. I just can’t help myself 😂. You dog is so proud of his stick👍👍
Cheers mate, Stuart 🇦🇺
Nice bro 😊
Excellent explanation & disassembly. I have an '04 VW Passat TDI, that the alternator pulley came off while driving, which allowed the serpentine belt to wrap around the harmonic balancer and stop the crank..... which broke the timing belt (likely causing piston/valve contact). 😒
After this video, it now makes more sense how this could've occurred. Thanks!
DANG. That makes for a good dent in the wallet.
Very helpful video. Keep it up. Love from India.
Thank you for making this video. My Impala's alternator is making a racket and I suspected the stupid pully going bad. Now that I know I can change the bearing I will just do that if it is bad. New Subscriber here🙋♂️ Keep up the great work!
That's exactly how this was diagnosed. With the hood closed it sounded like valve train/ engine ticking.
Great video. My 2002 VW TDI had one of these fail at around 80k. It made a terrible squeak before it finally failed after starting it up one morning. It didn't take out the serpentine belt. I would rather take the fuel economy hit vs. dealing with this.
I think VW was the first to come out with these and everyone followed.
Good bro 😊
You are Best on youtube 🎉🎉🎉
Never seen one of those before. Thanks.
Nice bro 😊
I was explaining the difference between a mechanic and a part swapper the other day when she was talking about brake calipers 👍
Diesel engines produce a very peaky output torque as each power stroke occurs - more that a gas engine at any rate. This means the actual crank speed rises and falls over the span of a single revolution and without the free-run clutch the same shock load would be fed to the serpentine (alternator) belt and to the spinning alternator. The clutch is designed to insulate the belt and attached devices from that short-term variation. I had one of these seize on a VW group diesel car and the first thing I knew about it was when the alternator support bracket casting cracked under the very peaky load...
Good to know. Good video. Great channel.
Great video. What a money saving idea!
The pulley broke on my vw, which needed the special tool which wasn't cheap or available. I went in to the local stealer where the master mech popped it off it in 5 seconds & assured me that vws are no longer the people's car in terms of serviceability
Great way to tell how this alternator works
Excellent. Thank you.
Great video if more people would learn to fix things instead of replacing them would be a lot better place
Thanks for sharing 👍
Love these repair videos. Auto parts have gotten so expensive. These days ppl hold on their cars longer. Pls more power tool repair videos. I want to know how to repair m18 fuel impact wrench gearbox and motor.
I'm workimg in the altenator and starter repair industry and advising every customer to step away from this type and with a simple trick find its INA (Volkswagen) equivalent, because the factory spiral pullies not even lasts 80,000 km in most cases, and I was tought by my senior car mechanic that the good parts must last minimum the altenators lifespan which is in general at 200,000 kilometers. The INA counterparts can last even more than 200k and are tenth of the price of factory pulleys. The replacement trick works very well, if you have a bunch of old ina brand pulleys as a comparison set, so you can place the spiral and INA roller type probe pullies side to side on a flat table outer face up and you can find the same pulley in height and diameter from the INA brand series if the shaft has the M16 thread on it. Then you look at the INA number on the face and can order a new INA pulley for the altenator. In many cases you can buy spacers under the pulley with the thickness of 0.5 or 1 mm or you can stack more up to reach the height of the old pulley, but avoid to use more than 3 mm because the pulley's centering bore step (facing inward) will not seat on the altenator shaft. Important thing is that you have to check the used thread lenght within the INA pulley, so it wont tie just on the tip of the shaft thread, then you can use it, otherwise you must find another INA geometry. 3 or more whole rotations from the thread beginning are the absolute minimum requirements for a strong mechanical fitment.
About the factory spiral pulleys: these arent dry but filled with PTFE-like thermal grease and can not be repaired, in the video you can see at 6:48 that the grease dries and flies out with time and the internal shaft get severely worn down, so is with the white centering teflon rings, and even if you replace bearings, the pulley wont ever run centered anymore, and that could damage the entire drivetrain, tensioners, etc.
Recenly the manufacturers began to use 14 mm threaded pullies (japaneese altenators mostly) using this terrible spiral spring type, these unfortunately can't be replaced with INA pullies, but in this case aftermarket ones can do the job if high price is deterring customers, but these chinese pulleys must be the last resort.
INA uses its scary spline instert wrench, but if you repair the altenators everyday, its not a big thing to buy it, and this wrench desing works well too.
Good working bro 😊
Very nice.
I had no idea they were doing this... Very good information. Thank you.
Thanks for watching.
.👍20 this is good to know. A much less expensive part on my Blazer went, I looked over the old part after replacing it and all it needed was a new bearing.
Stay well, Joe Z
Puppy scored .. that was a nice stick
It lasted nearly an hour before another "better" stick came into our life.
Interesting, thank you
That “spring” is the clutch. Same thing GM used for the 4 wheel drive automatic hubs. Not a long life item. Depends on how a person drives. And prying the seal from the bearing and squirting in some synthetic grease makes it bullet proof. Same for tensioner and idler bearings.
I had no idea those had dual springs. I assumed some type of roller/ramp clutch for sure. Great video thanks for sharing!
Thanks, Moe. Ginger is just awesome!
I think so too!
Great video. I have been suspicious of these things since I saw the first one probably 20 years ago. I love your easy cheap fixes. How about a video on c-clamps. I bet I have 20 that are missing the little swivel pad.
I have an entire tool drawer devoted just to C-Clamps. I'm sure a few are in need of attention.
Mercedes Benz tech here. I've replaced a few alternators because of the one way clutch. I've only seen them on diesels and you can tell when they fail because the belt will chirp loudly at idle due to a diesels crankshaft speed fluctuating at idle. The one way clutch allows to pulley to slip during the rapid deceleration of crank speed as the next cylinder in the firing order is coming up on its compression stroke. Once the engine is off idle the belt doesn't chirp since the engine speed is more consistent.
Good bro 😊
I've wondered how these work hadn't seen these in person yet.
Great video
So much fun. I can't wait until you get to experience one. This one was on my inlaws 08 Chrysler. He called me and said the car was making noise and then checked the oil and nothing was in it. I went over and there was oil, it was just super clean. He's in his 80's these slip ups seam to be coming much more frequently. Started it up and it sounded like valve clatter. Nope, just this silly pulley.
@@sixtyfiveford lol me neither haha
Good catch
Excellent information. I can wonder of the free wheel of modern alternator last longer as it's not being dropped in RPM with the engine shift as sharply this taking wear and tear of inside bearings. Less electric sudden change and less stress from all the charging changes on the entire system.
It has to be easier on the whole system so I would think so.
Great video
Thanks!
Slick fix!
GOOD INFO
Next time I’m told it’s three weeks and $400 for another alt.replacement, I will be pulling the bearing out. Thanks for that.
Please do!
Nice bro 😊
Jay the Florida pool pump motor repair guy. When Service Calls Longwood approved ! that was good info 2 see👨🔧good job !! How did they work? LOL
Cool how they work, makes sense to replace the bearing rather than the whole thing
I'm surprised how many shops replace the entire alternator. I guess they need to make money, but...
It reminds me of the clutches on an old OMC stern drive, which has one for forward and another for reverse. If you shift through neutral too quickly, the tang at the end of a spring would break and after that it just slips.
Decouplers were introduced due to the pulses of acceleration and deceleration of the crankshaft in a direct injection diesel engine. The snatch of the auxiliary belt could not be moderated by the tensioner and the alternator bearings were collapsing prematurely. The dual mass flywheel was developed for the same reason to smooth the power delivery into the transmission. Vehicles which had a solid flywheel conversion could run into problems with the 1st motion shaft bearing having excessive play and breaking up. Ball bearings and gears together does not end well....
When these came out on Dodge/Cummins they were supposed to cure belt squawk and wear upon shutdown. Apparently the crankshaft accelerated and decelerated sharply as it bumped over a few compressions after injectors cutoff.
Great job, I always wanted to do that. It makes sense that the pulley disengages when the engine suddenly decelerates, to allow the momentum of the alternator shaft to freewheel and get a tiny extra benefit from stacking electrons as the alternator momentum is converted to power. Does the engine and pulley on your car rotate clockwise as you stand facing the belt side of the engine? I'm assuming one spring will dampen the jerking force of positive acceleration, and the second spring disengages the clutch during deceleration. I'm a little unclear as to how the second mechanism works. In a patent I found online they describe a torsion spring and a clutch spring, wound in opposite directions. As you say below the clutch spring expands into gripping engagement when the pulley has more rotational torque than the hub. Then when the engine decelerates the hub becomes the source of rotational torque and the spring contracts, allowing freewheeling.
How it works is slightly different than I said on the video. After looking it over extensively, the thick spring inside only purpose it to dampen the blow from the belt turning the pulley to the alternator's resistance to turning. So this would reduce vibrations and extent belt life. The outside skinny spring is always binding outwards with the pulley; keeping it locked. So default is pulley locked. Reverse rotation coils up that smaller spring and reduces it's size, disengaging the pulley. I looked it over extensively off camera and I came to the conclusion these are dry assemblies. Any lubrication(other than bearing) would hinder it's operation.
I just ordered one for my Rav4 from Continental. It comes with the tool it's just a 17mm insert for a socket.
Long time no see Moe 👍👍
I know. Busy with life and fixing other peoples junk.
Awesome!!!
Thanks!!
I put a decoupler pulley on my 96 tdi, it didn't come with one from the factory. Before I put it on the belt tensioner would bounce like crazy, supposedly that can cause crankshaft damage in the long run
The alternator has enough inertia and the engine rpm fluctuates enough at idle to cause a problem with this 4 cyl diesel
I installed an overrunning pulley and now the tensioner stays perfectly still when idling!
I can see this. I like the idea, but think a sprag clutch would be more reliable. There would be more parts, likely though.
Good bro 😊
Just learning about these when the one on my 2015 Kia Sportage failed at 236k miles. The one on my 2011 Kia Forte started rattling at 190k mile. So these OADs seem to last awhile at least.
The question I wished you had answered is how to tell that if the problem is with the pulley bearing or the alternator itself. Nice work. I think I could do that.
This one was diagnosed because it was making an awful racket. The alternator charging system was actually working just fine. It just sounded like there was major engine damage.
Very interesting. I was looking for the 24k gold part in that pulley, making it worth up to $100.
Right!
Off subject ,,, EBay has a bench top hydraulic hose crimper for under $200 . Is it suitable to do crimps on backhoe hydraulic lines. Thought it might make good content to review one.
Thanks goodness lol I’ve been Jonesing for a video😂
Do you think you could weld the inner and outer parts of the pulley to remove the clutch "function?"
Do you think a guy could also just true that whole mess up and weld it solid? I really do like taking out the complications manufactures place on us.
I bet you could and never notice the difference.
Not true and potentially unsafe advice not knowing the application. I had a one way clutch pulley which when it went bad it seized the clutch and acted like a solid pulley. It is noticeable chirping the belt, turning the car on, off and shifting. There are one way clutch, over running alternator decouplers and solid pulleys. This is a decoupler which also dampers shock to the other pulleys and components on the belt. On some cars if they had an OAD stock they may also have a different belt tensioner than had they been equipped with a solid pulley. These are on engines because on some the rotor in the alternator can over run the speed of the belt. Which then chirps causing wear and vibration in extreme conditions you can throw the belt. This was why ford added them only to the interceptor model crown victoria with the larger Mitsubishi alternator. It can like almost everything technically have an effect on fuel economy though that usually was not the reason they began becoming common place. It had more to do with vehicles using more electricity and having much more powerful alternators. Many factory alternators now are outputting what people with large audio systems used to need to upgrade to.
I just replaced the clutched alternator on my 2004 Ford Focus, today (9/30/23), with a non-clutched alternator; because I didn't know the car had a clutched alternator. But, from what you're saying; the clutch is a piece of junk and doesn't really matter (which is what I figured out, after reading a few articles on them).
Man...I wish this dude was my neighbor!!
I need some more good neighbors!
MM77 Approved 👍🏼👍🏼
I have read that these pulleys are to extend belt life and reduce vibration. Engines don't rotate at a constant velocity throughout the revolution. And this is supposed to reduce belt oscillation
Belts are cheap. This is just over engineering for dumb sake.
A good belt nearly always wear out well before they break.
In my experience, belts & hoses are parts you shouldn't ever skimp on - buy high quality belts & hoses and have the peace of mind that they won't crap out on you thus leaving you stranded. They'll also last over time, giving you the most bang for the buck - you're correct in saying that they'll wear out before they break. I've yet to suffer from a broken belt or hose that I've personally replaced in my entire life! Best wishes!
- Max Giganteum
@@MaxGiganteum Mitsuboshi belts I have found to the best in the world. In 30 yrs working on heavy trucks I found the component gave up before those belts.
@@JonathanWhoever At first, I assumed that you meant "Mitsubishi" belts... but then I looked it up on the WWW and NO!, you did mean to say Mitsuboshi... LOL. I'm glad I looked as I've never heard of Mitsuboshi to the best of my recollection. My traditional go-to outfit for belts and hoses in the past was Gates or Goodyear for my personal vehicles though I couldn't tell you the last time I actually had to replace a belt or hose for myself, it has probably been 15 years! Work was always a different story as they seemingly bought whatever was the cheapest for the equipment they were running... and let me tell you all firsthand that buying the cheapest parts certainly cost the company far more money over the long run due to failed parts not long after they were installed. I won't mention the cost of machine down time plus having to pay a tech to go back and replace the same parts again! I'll admit that sometimes the cheapest parts did pan out... but when your techs tell you that the parts you buy are often bad right out of the box, that should tell you buying those parts isn't a good idea! I'll give you three guesses as to the usual origin of those parts but you should only need one. Peace & good vibes to all! ✌🏻🛻🔩
- Max Giganteum
Can a overrunning pulley be retrofitted to an alternator that never had one.....I have a 2001 Dodge Ram V8 and it doesnt come with an OAD pulley.
I'm not sure about other applications but the 200 Amp Mitsubishi alternator on crown vic interceptor models the one way clutch or decoupling has nothing to do with fuel economy. With the rotor size and a standard pulley it can throw belts and chirps on shifts, startup and shut down. The decoupler over a one way clutch adds dampening which saves on the belt and the other components.
The 33-spline is not just WV, it's used by every European car manufacturer. Here you can find aftermarket pulleys for €50 for almost any car and for less than €30 for most cars.
Some "premium" aftermarket brands are crazy expensive too and I've no idea about dealership prices.
You can find the socket for only €5 if you can use an impact wrench, otherwise you will also need a torx bit to prevent the shaft from rotating and they are usually sold together in a kit starting at about €12
Can you do a video on a DIY wheel alignment?
I've always done all the work on my cars before besides swapping and balancing tires and alignments. I know they have camber/caster/toe plates for sale and there's the string box method but would love to see you do it in a vid!
I do have a video on it and I do it all the time. ruclips.net/video/Dl0pCDpZYwQ/видео.html
When you add up all of the complicated, prone-to-breakage, difficult and expensive to repair "fuel saving" features on a modern car, you'd probably need to drive it at least 750k miles to pay for the increased price of the car with that fuel savings, and replace every piece of that fuel -saving engineering wizardry along the way. But very few of these vehicles make it past 150-200k miles, so they need to be replaced with the latest tech wonders---at what cost to "the environment"?
So this is where we are with transportation in 2023, after 60+ years of this Washington D.C. inspired bull excrement. Thanks for a job well done, you benevolent, omniscient Washington D.C. people. You've really delivered on all that money you've sucked out of us.
So hey. Let’s say I have an alternator and I’m certain that what I hear are shard of one of those rollers drifting throughout the internals as the pulley spins. What would have the best odds paying off for the longest: 1) removing the shards and assembling, or 2) leaving the shards and sending it?
I mean duh, fix it, but in the hypothetical realm what would do you think?
seems like the better they get at making things that are complicated , the worse they get at making things that are durable .
Planned obsolescence... has been... and remains... a reality for all sorts of products that we buy and use - especially with products that we've come to rely on day to day and seemingly cannot live without, such as the average automobile. Enough said!
- Max Giganteum
This device is not about economy, (poly-v belt is) but for damping belt vibrations at idle that is hursh for those poly-v belts and noisy. Works only at idle and as a side effect on very rapid engine deceleration like when using the brakes. Actually does reduce idling noises and extends belt life.
Thanks all ways wanted to see inside of one. But that's why I will not buy a newer car for
One of these "brilliant pain in the neck" kind of inventions.
Annoyed and impressed at the same time.
i think this is for exstending the life of brushes and commutator assembly, the inner shaft spins less over time while the outer pulley spins with crankshaft rpm. wait till they go brushless alternators on gas cars !!!! ive seen some brushless used on hybrid vehicles.
Yes, the spring is called a Bendix clutch.
I agree Mo…the minuscule amount of gas savings wouldn’t anywhere near pay for the life of that design. That coupler has more parts than a piano…but as rusty and dry as it looks the bearing suffered from immense heat from its related components not getting any type of lube- lotsa dry friction.
I was thinking that too, but I wonder if that would mess with the ability of the clutch to lock up. It seems to rely upon friction
I looked it over extensively off camera and I came to the conclusion these are dry assemblies. Any lubrication(other than bearing) would hinder it's operation.
@@sixtyfiveford true enough…maybe Graphite for less wear ??…I like the principle of the idea,just not the wear design. I’m curious if this application would have more benefit off the engine’s crankshaft ?
@@Mr.Innovator961 How it works is slightly different than I said on the video. After looking it over extensively, the thick spring inside only purpose it to dampen the blow from the belt turning the pulley to the alternator's resistance to turning. So this would reduce vibrations and extent belt life. The outside skinny spring is always binding outwards with the pulley; keeping it locked. So default is pulley locked. Reverse rotation coils up that smaller spring and reduces it's size, disengaging the pulley. So any lube inside at all would cause the small outside spring to slip under load.
@@sixtyfiveford yea…I’ll buy that explanation it makes sense then why it couldn’t have any sort of lubricant. It’s sorta loosely designed on the centrifugal clutch principle, since you’ve figured it out and found a inexpensive repair solution you’ll probably have more business repairing these alternators than you’d probably want- be a good side hustle.
New line of sixty five ford t-shirts "just give it some wacks"
Who designed that Briggs & Stratton ..they always claim it's for fuel economy..i think it's to sell more parts..glad i don't have anything like that in any of my vehicles ..but if i run across it i know what to do..thanks ..i see ginger is having fun on the trail..she's cool..see you on the next one cheers 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
My thoughts exactly
only... those springs may become weak with time, so it is really wiser to replace the whole thing.....
So, I actually put a 100 amp Scion Alternator on my Yaris, and it has one of these pulleys on it. Unfortunately, it doesn't seem to be enough for my amp/sub, so I've been toying with trying to get a Ford 3G to fit in there. Now I'm wondering if I ought to look at this pulley and see if it has issues. Thanks for the great videos!
If a hundred amps is not enough for a sound system in a Yaris, you need to get your ears looked at by a doctor
@Phantom-mk4kp my lights dim. There's no way it's putting out 100A. That was what I was getting at. It's just a "900W" Pioneer amp. I have much bigger setups in my Mustangs, and the 3G is a much better alternator.
You need a big capacitor or "cap."
@@ProleDaddy do you have a size you'd recommend?
I just did the 3G alternator upgrade in my 78 Ford about a month ago(130amps from a Taurus). It blows my 1g away and will squeal the belt at idle. Nothing dims anymore.
At 1000rpm the
-1g(60amp) put out around 30amps
-3g(130amp) puts out around 110amps
-2g(75amp) would do around 40amps
Info found online
👍
I knew those alternators could be fixed and it doesn't look too difficult for even the tool inclined to fix either
Prob saves the modules from voltage spikes
The purpose is to keep the engine from spinning the alternator to fast because until recently when turbo engines took off the engine hardly ever got above about 5k rpms now with them turning 7 & 8k the decoupler disengages around 4500 keeping the alternator alive
weld it up and go on with your day.
My understanding is that these pulleys are used on high current alternators to keep the mass of the alternators rotor from throwing the serpentine belt off during rapid deceleration events.
Possibly. This was only a 115amp alternator, though. I have a bigger one adapted into my 78 Ford.
Is there any reason I can't buy a decoupler pulley to replace the standard pulley on my Jeep? Logically I see no reason why it would be a bad idea, but I have searched high and low and even tried emailing the Litens Automotive Group (owner of the patent on the OAD pulley) to ask, but they never replied.
I need to replace my alternator pulley and I have a 5-speed manual transmission, and I'd love to have the benefits that come from an OAD pulley, but nervous about trying this upgrade until someone more knowledgeable than me confirms it can't hurt anything.
The benefits are minute. These have a high failure rate and will likely leave you stranded. They were originally designed just for diesel engines. This is because when a diesel engine shuts down it's very abrupt and the belt would chirp. This is not ideal when you're trying to sell a new car that has belt squeal/chirp.
The way that works was very interesting, thanks for showing us. The one on my VW locked up at about 150k miles. Since the alternator was still working, I drove it another 200k miles before the it stopped charging the battery. I then just replaced the whole thing. I have put 100k miles on the replacement alternator, so it might be near the end of its' life. At least I now know how to fix the clutch if it dies.
Ginger is as cute as ever, we need more Ginger. 😊👍
How many miles you have on your VW?
2002 jetta wagon, 450k miles, ALH engine with manual transmission. Other than normal maintenance, like tires, batteries, and glow plugs, the only things that have been replaced on the engine are the a/c compressor and the alternator.
I just encountered my first one with this stupid concept on a dodge journey. Didn't notice or check clutch when OG alt failed on lady's car. 2 weeks and I get a call they are stranded. Discovered weird clutch thing issue as removed it.the rebuilt orileys failed in 2 weeks. 2nd one failed in 10 minutes. Hope 3rd lasts because I got screwed on labor.
I thought they were used on diesels to stop belt squeak when the motor shut off.
Can you add these pulleys to normal alternators, could there be any benefits?
Yes, they're swappable. If you had something like a 10-speed transmission, you might see a gain of 1% fuel mileage. That would be city driving. Highway driving you wouldn't see anything. So if you got 15 MPG City you would get 15.15mpg possibly.
I guess they were originally invented for small 4 cylinder diesels. Diesels when they shut down because of such high compression abruptly stop unlike gas that coast. This abrupt stopped can cause the alternator belt to chirp. This obviously would be a concern from consumers on a brand new car.
What engineer was out riding a BMX and had the idea to incorporate a freewheel sprocket into vehicles ?
So true.
Another part of our wonderful perfect disposable society
Just saying
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