First Hangboard Sesh in over 2 Years!
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- Footage from a recent hangboard session, it was a blast (:
First Hangboard Sesh in over 2 Years! by Mani the Monkey
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Stay strong and healthy somewhere out there!
Nice to see you come back 🫰bro
nice mani! My wife and me also lived in a yurt for almost 2 years. Stay warm there! Great experience
Happy rocktober Mani! Incredible that you can still hang one handed without regular training! The edge is 24mm without inserts, 12mm with two big inserts (6mm each), 4 or 7mm edge radius depending on which side of the slot is facing down 🙌
Thanks for the numbers, hey nice to hear from you man, hope you're fine out there! Happy rocktober too!
Psyched to see you back on the scene Mani
What are your thoughts about static hanging vs. doing pull-ups on medium and smaller edges on the hangboard? So far I've only done static hanging from a 17mm edge and I far outperform pretty much anyone I know at my level (7a/+) on the hangboard, being able to comfortably hang at 150%+ bodyweight (two arms) on my strongest grip (4-finger open), close to 130% on the half-crimp. However, when pulling on actual rock or plastic edges I somehow fail to translate the hangboard-specifc performance into actual pulling on small edges. Several friends who can barely hang off a 20mm can pull harder on crimps than I do. Could doing pull-ups on smaller edges be the missing link?
What do you mean they pull harder then you climbing but less on hangboard passive hang ??? If they can barely hang 20mm that mean that’s not a finger issue but more likely to be grip position and technical body awareness
Not strength related if you can hang more than them it means you have stronger fingers but can not translate into a mouvement chain during climbing
It s a complex movements pattern
As someone said
You are only strong as your weakest points in the chain
That said it means you have room to improve on techniques movements coordinated muscles chain etc ….
I’m the weakest off my friend club but the smartest so I climb harder than them not with strength but technically improved movements and a lot of body awareness 😊 foot techniques , hips positions ,leverage …
I’d guess it’s your footwork. Like they might take more weight of their fingers by using better technique.
Crimps are also multi-dimensional - they are not just about pulling down. Perhaps you dont utilise your strength by also pulling outwards (and putting weight on the feet this way). Either way - it is a technique issue, only problem is that technique is a very wide term
That's why I'm a great fan of doing the whole movement chain, as I said in the video. That's why I always train the whole one armer/pull up, and not only static hangs.
Imagine this scenario:
Person A can hang 100kg statically on an edge but can only fully pull up 70kg on the same edge (super strong fingers, but less brachioradialis, upper arms, shoulders, lats etc.). Person B can hang 90kg statically on the same edge, while being able to pull up 80kg on that edge.
This is possible, because the whole movement chain matters for the full pull up, not only how strong your forearm is (though I'd say forearm strength is by far the most important piece of the movement chain).
The question is, who is the stronger climber on real rock? I'd say depends on the problem.
Hanging protocols don't translates very well to climbing. Rarely you just hang passively when climbing
I recommend Dr. Tyler Nelson channel if you want to learn more about finger training : ruclips.net/video/hNhzF1XsWPs/видео.html
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