Posting this comment in case any Honda Element owners find this video. You will need a T30 Torx for the two bolts on the sides. Newer Elements may use a T27, I have read some conflicting info. At 4:00 where the spacer is being placed on the car's steering shaft, you will need to remove the spacer's shaft piece by removing the four 5mm hex bolts. Then, fasten the spacer to the car's steering shaft with the original bolt (torque to 29 ft/lb). This will trap the bolt head in the spacer and ensure that the spacer can't come loose from the steering shaft. Next, reinstall the spacer's shaft piece with the four hex bolts. I suggest using some blue thread locker (Loctite) on these so they can't vibrate loose. Finally, install the wheel onto the spacer's shaft and torque the nut to 29 ft/lb and reassemble the rest of the steering wheel components as in this video.
Installed. Some minor issues, and how I dealt with them: Cars with cruise control have an additional plug to deal with. A grey plug that fits into a slot above the center bolt. Wire too short for it to nest back in this location. So I plugged them back together, then tucked the connector to the left just below its left side wire guide (connector not lives directly left of center bolt). I placed the wire that used to go into right side wire guide into left side wire guide. I have photos I sent to your email address on website. I didn't realize from the video that the yellow airbag connector now no longer lives in its previous nest next to airbag bolt. It now gets tucked into cavity of the spacer. Video shows doing this, its just wasn't said and I had to watch again to realize. My '06 ap2 uses a different type of yellow airbag plug, which requires different method to unplug. Found this video on how its done: ruclips.net/video/BJJ-SYJPzi4/видео.html The new long center bolt comes with a single washer. But because the splined shaft of spacer doesn't end up flush or even near flush with level washer rest on steering wheel, washer bends and distorts as blot tightened. I paired it upnwith a second washer I had. The stock bolt has a very beefy flange, and two washers needed to work like flange. The center bolt is an 8mm hex. The airbag bolts are a torx bolt size T30. Make sure you have these sockets. If you need to tighten the 4 hex bolts inside spacer that mount spacer splaed shaft to spacer housing, these are 5mm hex heads. Mine were all loose (bought my spacer used). I also used blue loctite on these. The spacer makes a huge difference! I sit very tall. Already have the bys seat rails, but still rearview mirror blocks my view out the windshield. Before this spacer, I couldn't recline seat any further as arms wouldn't reach wheel. Now I can recline further, and put seat back further, and now I sit lower! Its a loooong reach to stalks now. Signal and wipers. I can just reach them with hands still on wheel, but have to rotate my grip as I do. Wear size Large gloves. If high beams on, then its a real stretch to blinker. But thumb still on wheel. At some point I'll take the stalk housing off, and try to bend them with a heat gun. I know it'll be tricky, but if I can get 1 inch more (about 2.5cm), stalks will be much more reasonable to use. I ski and bike and hike, so thick thighs and hips. Its a lot more difficult to get in and out now, as wheel gets in the way. I have to contort to get past. Depending how far vack you put seat, this may not be issue. I'm probably worst case scenario. Can't put seat back very far (short arms and legs), need lots of entry exit clearance (wide hips). At first I was worried about the airbag being closer to driver. But now I realize so long as any driver adjusts seat to make arm angle correct, they'll automatically be safe distance from it. I almost wish spacer was more like 4cm instead of 6cm, as that would solve distance to stalks and hip clearance. But then it wouldn't be as good at allowing more recline and seat farther back, which is what improves headroom.
Nice video, installing this later today. Some tips for others: The horn and airbag wires are clipped into guides on the wheel. Remove those and unplug horn to create slack in wires before you start trying to pry wheel off. When trying to break steering wheel free, leave the center bolt in place, loose, so when you're pulling on wheel and it finally comes free, it doesn't yank out all at once, damaging those wires. Once wheel is loose you can remove bolt and gently guide wires through slot while carefully pulling wheel rest of way off. You may need to resort to using a puller. Can rent one free from many autopart stores in USA. Looks like they forgot to reconnect the horn in video. Don't forget that step! The center bolt torque for wheel mentioned in video is wrong. They say its 60nm. Its actually 39nm, which is 29 lb ft. There is a more comprehensive video on steering wheel removal done by LHT. Lots of useful info. That video is about replacing wheel with a rebuilt one with new leather. So includes steps you won't need (moving stuff from old wheel to new). But the steps for remove wheel and install is very useful. Skip to 3:10 where removal instructions start: m.ruclips.net/video/mvvJ6bllgVo/видео.html
Hi Russell, thanks a lot for your huge contribute. When I recorded this video I was in a big workshop, pretty crowded, with a terrible audio capturing. I spoke over in English months and months later and I did it so and so. Thanks again :) p.s: you have an important Surname
Posting this comment in case any Honda Element owners find this video.
You will need a T30 Torx for the two bolts on the sides. Newer Elements may use a T27, I have read some conflicting info.
At 4:00 where the spacer is being placed on the car's steering shaft, you will need to remove the spacer's shaft piece by removing the four 5mm hex bolts. Then, fasten the spacer to the car's steering shaft with the original bolt (torque to 29 ft/lb). This will trap the bolt head in the spacer and ensure that the spacer can't come loose from the steering shaft.
Next, reinstall the spacer's shaft piece with the four hex bolts. I suggest using some blue thread locker (Loctite) on these so they can't vibrate loose.
Finally, install the wheel onto the spacer's shaft and torque the nut to 29 ft/lb and reassemble the rest of the steering wheel components as in this video.
Installed. Some minor issues, and how I dealt with them:
Cars with cruise control have an additional plug to deal with. A grey plug that fits into a slot above the center bolt. Wire too short for it to nest back in this location. So I plugged them back together, then tucked the connector to the left just below its left side wire guide (connector not lives directly left of center bolt). I placed the wire that used to go into right side wire guide into left side wire guide. I have photos I sent to your email address on website.
I didn't realize from the video that the yellow airbag connector now no longer lives in its previous nest next to airbag bolt. It now gets tucked into cavity of the spacer. Video shows doing this, its just wasn't said and I had to watch again to realize.
My '06 ap2 uses a different type of yellow airbag plug, which requires different method to unplug. Found this video on how its done:
ruclips.net/video/BJJ-SYJPzi4/видео.html
The new long center bolt comes with a single washer. But because the splined shaft of spacer doesn't end up flush or even near flush with level washer rest on steering wheel, washer bends and distorts as blot tightened. I paired it upnwith a second washer I had. The stock bolt has a very beefy flange, and two washers needed to work like flange.
The center bolt is an 8mm hex. The airbag bolts are a torx bolt size T30. Make sure you have these sockets.
If you need to tighten the 4 hex bolts inside spacer that mount spacer splaed shaft to spacer housing, these are 5mm hex heads. Mine were all loose (bought my spacer used). I also used blue loctite on these.
The spacer makes a huge difference! I sit very tall. Already have the bys seat rails, but still rearview mirror blocks my view out the windshield. Before this spacer, I couldn't recline seat any further as arms wouldn't reach wheel.
Now I can recline further, and put seat back further, and now I sit lower!
Its a loooong reach to stalks now. Signal and wipers. I can just reach them with hands still on wheel, but have to rotate my grip as I do. Wear size Large gloves. If high beams on, then its a real stretch to blinker. But thumb still on wheel.
At some point I'll take the stalk housing off, and try to bend them with a heat gun. I know it'll be tricky, but if I can get 1 inch more (about 2.5cm), stalks will be much more reasonable to use.
I ski and bike and hike, so thick thighs and hips. Its a lot more difficult to get in and out now, as wheel gets in the way. I have to contort to get past. Depending how far vack you put seat, this may not be issue. I'm probably worst case scenario. Can't put seat back very far (short arms and legs), need lots of entry exit clearance (wide hips).
At first I was worried about the airbag being closer to driver. But now I realize so long as any driver adjusts seat to make arm angle correct, they'll automatically be safe distance from it.
I almost wish spacer was more like 4cm instead of 6cm, as that would solve distance to stalks and hip clearance. But then it wouldn't be as good at allowing more recline and seat farther back, which is what improves headroom.
Nice video, installing this later today.
Some tips for others:
The horn and airbag wires are clipped into guides on the wheel. Remove those and unplug horn to create slack in wires before you start trying to pry wheel off.
When trying to break steering wheel free, leave the center bolt in place, loose, so when you're pulling on wheel and it finally comes free, it doesn't yank out all at once, damaging those wires. Once wheel is loose you can remove bolt and gently guide wires through slot while carefully pulling wheel rest of way off.
You may need to resort to using a puller. Can rent one free from many autopart stores in USA.
Looks like they forgot to reconnect the horn in video. Don't forget that step!
The center bolt torque for wheel mentioned in video is wrong. They say its 60nm. Its actually 39nm, which is 29 lb ft.
There is a more comprehensive video on steering wheel removal done by LHT. Lots of useful info. That video is about replacing wheel with a rebuilt one with new leather. So includes steps you won't need (moving stuff from old wheel to new). But the steps for remove wheel and install is very useful.
Skip to 3:10 where removal instructions start:
m.ruclips.net/video/mvvJ6bllgVo/видео.html
Hi Russell, thanks a lot for your huge contribute. When I recorded this video I was in a big workshop, pretty crowded, with a terrible audio capturing. I spoke over in English months and months later and I did it so and so. Thanks again :) p.s: you have an important Surname