How to Build the BUD Guitar Tube Amplifier
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- Опубликовано: 12 дек 2019
- Josh Phelps guides you through the journey of building your BUD Tube Amp Kit.
2:52 - PCB Construction
15:45 - Chassis Prep
21:51 - PCB Installation
38:30 - Time to Test
46:16 - Cabinet Build
48:25 - Chassis Installation
51:28 - How Does it Sound?
The BUD vacuum tube amp kit, employing a timeless tonal recipe that includes a genuine Class-A, low wattage, all-tube signal path, includes everything you will need to complete the kit in a few hours with astounding results. Made up of two 12AX7 gain stages, tone stack, single-ended EL84, American made iron and a Jensen 10” driver, The BUD is an affordable, fun to build, great sounding amplifier kit that will be a revelation for you and your tone.
tubedepot.com/products/bud-gu... 
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Love the attention to detail of the tech who put the electronics in.
Just wanted to say how much I love the sound of that snare on the interlude music.
Saved this. Great instructions.. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Fascinating, great detail.
Nice work JP
It would be nice if you made a long video like this on testing the tube amp kits tube depot sells I’m having trouble figuring out what I did wrong with my 5e3 build
The stand you're using for your solder spool is a Great idea! Question: What're you using for a soldering iron? I'm guessing my auto parts store cheapie won't do
It would be great if these were in stock.
Great video. Thanks for doing this with this level of detail.
I have a dumb question: does it matter which end of the transformer I connect to the plate and which end I connect to the supply?
I think it doesn't, since the transformer has no positive/negative terminals. But just want to be sure.
Thanks
It looks really nice, and the price really reasonable... But I would be worried about shipping + taxes and customs to europe. However, I have not found a competitor so well documented around here yet!
Those wires that you stripped 2/8’s off of should actually have 4/16’s removed 😉
8/32nd's....for accuracy's sake.
If you want truly precise sound, 16/64ths!
Lol! 😂 It's funny how some of youse say "one fourth" instead of "a quarter".
@@nevillegoddard4966 25%
I would like to know how to get these kits
You should have a load (speaker or dummy load) connected when powering up with tubes in. Even with the volume off it is safer and prevents you accidentally frying your OT.
I usually solder an 8.2ohm 5 watt resistor from the tip to the ground switch of the output jack, just in case, cause I only have an 8ohm speaker cab. 😁
I'm a rookie and that bothered me based on what I know. Glad someone else spotted that. I was about to scour the internet to make sure I wasn't crazy.
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I understand this is a budget build kit but I have two issues. First is the board mounted pots. A weak spot for future failure. Second is the low quality capacitors .
is that a tube mike?
What kind of wire strippers are you using? That thing looks high speed! I need to pick myself up one like that.
These are Knipex Automatic Insulation Strippers. Here's more info: www.knipex.com/index.php?id=1216&L=1&page=group_detail&parentID=1363&groupID=1383
Mr Josh Phelps, i have a question if is it any possibility that you could send me pdf 1:1 size layout instead of me buying brand new pcb on your website, i'll pay different way with money. I really want to do my first DIY project, and i really want to burn the copper on my own. I always wanted to have one those little tubeamps. This is realy good oportunity to learn when you re guiding me this video in process of building. I want to pay for this. Take my money! ^^
R12 is feedback resistor?
why wouldn't you use multi stranded speaker wire?
36:53: Shows both striped wires going to W2, but manual says black+black/white go to W2 (and likewise brown+brown/white to W3). Which is it?
Looked up the specs; video correct. www.classictone.net/40-18111.pdf
Is the shielding tape to make the amp chassis ground better?
Not quite. The chassis is open on one side, so you effectively put a lid on it with that shielding tape.
Interference from that direction will be significantly dampened as opposed to the chassis being open.
I'm just getting into tube amps, but why do they mount the tubes to a flimsy circuit board
was flux unnecessary?
Board mounted Valves? Sorry Tubes?
Why do you have a light bulb plugged into your power outlet?
That's a dim bulb tester. A dim bulb tester allows you to put an incandescent light bulb in series with power running into unfamiliar or newly built tube amp. The light bulb acts as a current draw if there is a short in the equipment being tested. Not only is it easy to build, it’s also a dependable way to safely test old and new tube gear while lowering the chances of doing damage in case there is a problem.
where do you buy thoes clamps at 45:38 holding the black wire down and what are they called
Why solder the tube sockets from the tops as well?If the PCB holes are metallised there shouldn't be any need to do so.
That's correct ! There is no need to solder on both sides of the board.
@@bio-techlarry9602 Agreed :-) However, my comment was in relation to a board with metallised (plated through) holes.
I do multi level boards all the time and the solder reaches both.sides without the need to actually solder the top side. I do not and will not use unleaded solder on any board. Unleaded solder causes tin whiskers to the joint. The military still uses only leaded solder and so will I. Heat and a little flux is the key to good soldering. Use a heat control solder station and you will get better results. 73
If you build it they will come, even without sound bites.
Where’s Rob?
Please be aware that not every single step is shown in the video but are in the printed directions.
1.) You need to install a jumper J1 on the PCB.
2.) You will need to install the cleats in the cabinets. In the video they are already glued onto the side boards of the cabinet. You have to measure, mark, then glue them yourself first.
Thank you!!! Totally missed J1 in the instructions. Lucky I read the comments of this video before assembling it, and I remembered your comment.
Yes, thank you for posting this! The problem I'm having now is that I don't know what it means to "Also make sure you have installed your jumper wire at “J1”". J1 seems to label two little holes that are right next to each other but there is no connection between them. When in "install your jumper wire at J1", does that mean you connect those two holes by soldering a wire to each one?
Well, I got impatient I just connected the two J1 holes. I absolutely do not know what the hell I’m doing, so this was a risk. Would it explode and kill me? Would I fry something and destroy my build? The only way to know would be do just try it. Clearly, I survived. And, connecting those holes eliminated a 120 cycle hum I was getting.
That is exactly what that means. You won't blow anything up, I think. After you're done, carefully follow the steps for checking all the voltages. Then go back and do all the tests again. Also, I highly recommend building a current limiter for the first time you actually power up the amp. Uncle Doug has an explanation of how to build one here: ruclips.net/video/wRFRwOnLsZI/видео.html@@paulm.7385
And if any of the tests show that something is wrong, reach out to Tube Depot. Their tech support very quickly helped diagnose that I had missed the jumper. Very good support from them.@@paulm.7385
Keps nut not keep nuts.
Speaker is installed reversed, the baffle should be against the wood. This installation would produce a tinny sound.
Speakers can be loaded from the front or the rear. We opted for a front load on this kit, though the BUD is certainly *not* tinny. More like rich and creamy. The BUD can be also be purchased as a stand alone head (no speaker / no cabinet) and you can plug it into any guitar cabinet you want.
Somehow nobody have reached the "heathkit" level of quality, whatever the price...
It would be nice to hear a sound sample of ACTUAL clean tone. What I hear that you are calling "clean" is not what I consider clean at all. I hear the amp is breaking up a little already - hence, not clean.
Please advise as to where one might be able to hear the amp played truly clean and clear at its best.
Thanks.
Have fun!
A two watt amp has very little headroom.
@@jerrystephenson1172
Hi, Jerry.
Well understood. That means that it is going to start to overdrive the tubes and circuits before it gets very loud at all. But, quiet as it may be, I would still like to hear whatever it is an amp can do while it just at the point before any noticeable breakup is included in the output audio.
He doesn't look happy with SE EL84 output. Fender had or has one with 6V6 sounding better but far from PP.
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It’s pronounced Sodder not solder
Okay, think about this before you start assembling, and I don’t class this as building.…. You should start by installing resistors first. Installing pots in the early stages can lead to accidental damage of repetitive bending while installing other components. Take this from a guy with 44 years of repairing and building tube and solid state amps……!
It’s pronounced quarter inch.
The L in solder is silent unless your babbling Britt .
Too much breakup at low volume. Pass.
It’s pronounced sodder not saulder
If you're in the USA it is but elsewhere in the world like here in UK we say "Solder" and pronounce that way too, just depends where you're from so both ways are correct and neither are wrong.
A bit like US say "Aluminum" and UK say "Aluminium" with the extra "I" and also pronounce the word that way too.