I just want to thank you! Your videos are one of my most useful resources for learning if not THE most useful resource. There aren’t many of these types of videos out there and yours are certainly the most thorough. Thank you so much!
Good explanation of creating a frag that has projection and longevity. I've found that it's the combination of notes chosen along with the fixatives you use with those notes. Also, allow what you make to macerate for making a judgment.
It’s true that fragrance/perfume oils are not ideal for making rich-smelling perfume sprays but before I started using synthetic aroma chemicals, I did start off with fragrance oils and found some of them to be of very decent quality for making long-lasting body mists and some of them smelled quite good - but, almost always, there was that richness element missing. I did have other uses for them (making scented lotion, using them in aroma diffusers and wallflowers, as mentioned in the video.) The problem with fragrance/perfume oils is that you have to try and use a lot, and spend a lot of money, to finally find the few of them that can closely perform like proper perfumery ingredients. They also don’t usually age as well as actual perfumery ingredients (when mixed with perfumer’s alcohol.) Once I got into using synthetic aroma chemicals, I found myself creating fragrances that smell like rich perfumes far sooner than I expected, with good sillage and long-lasting power. If a perfume I’ve formulated lasts on my clothes for longer than half a day then I consider it a success 😄.
Perfumery is an expensive pursuit. Buying aroma samples helped me narrow down the scents i like working with. Will expand my scent library once i get more experience :)
Good tip. It can also help us be better consumers even if we don't pursue making perfumes. At this stage, I'm just trying to learn the language--to describe a fragrance or understand someone else's description.
These videos are so good for a new beginner like me 👍🏻 I'm struggling to come up with a way to make a linear odour profile like you said in your older videos but I guess that's part of the learning curve. I've also tried out the spreadsheet and it's super helpful 🔝 After using it I realized why my first "good" smelling fragrance only lasted for like 15 minutes, I only had like 6 percent basenotes haha 😂 keep up the good work dude can't wait to be able to share something good myself 😀
In my experience so far, the only way to create something anything like a perfume that is linear is to use aroma molecules. The top notes don’t last more than an hour on my skin. Sandalwood or myrrh etc. will last a long time, but it’s going to smell like that individual oil. The common absolutes (jasmine, rose, ylang) are so restricted you can’t use enough in a blend to last very long. All the natural blends I have created change every 5 minutes. Even just using hedione and iso e super, have made a huge improvement in creating linear and longer lasting scents. What have you tried in terms of synthetics?
@@wib6044 I've purchased a starterkit with 20 ac's so I've been tinkering around with those. I've got Timbersilk instead of Iso e super and some other cool stuff like Calone, dyhydromircynal (spelling😂), cis 3 hexenol and some other stuff so I'm probably gonna focus on creating something with only the ac's and then back them up with some naturals 😊
Cool! I love calone. Hated DHM out of the bottle, but have been adding in small amounts to existing blends and it seems to be helping with projection. Just ordered cis3. Same with benzyl acetate if you haven’t used it yet. The acetate smells like nail polish remover, but again in small amounts makes the naturals bloom. Look into accords for linear scents. I have been inadvertently creating them in my blends. Instead of bergamot, lavender, then frankincense then sandal wood on the dry down. I’ll get the top notes and then it dries down to one fragrance for the rest of its life. I still don’t have a clue what I’m doing, but the results I’m getting seem to be good so far.
@@wib6044 Me too! I didn't think I would but it adds so much freshness that I really enjoy it for now. Nope haven't used BA but prob will soon enough. I'm at the point now where I'm following bk's advice and just doing 2 materials at a time and so on but I'm also desperate to create a accord of some kind lol 😂 I did the grosjman accord and find it really nice but would like to create something by myself also but hey, like you said, I havent got a clue on what I'm doing either 😁 I really like pink pepper for some reason so Im gonna try create a nice zingy topnote tonight 👍🏻😁
Hey any updates how is it coming along? I finally learned about the grosjman accord you mentioned about 6 months ago or so. Went ahead and ordered Methyl ionone Gamma and man I’ve been missing out. Made something with it at full strength and man just a drop turned the clock back to 1987!😂. It is powerful too. Have since diluted to 10% and it is really helpful in boosting projection.
Best Perfumery Channel 💪🏽 Please do a video explaining maceration of the perfume concentrate on small and large scale please. Will leaving the concentrate to sit for longer produce better end product and should u do it before or after the alcohol is added. Love from london 🙏🏽
Usually agree with you but Natural Perfumes are the best. You have to be patient in your learning curve. I enjoy a lot your lessons but I only make natural perfumes. Not interested in chemicals for a quick fix but whole, sexy well-rounded perfumes are for me. To each's own. Thanks for your awesome videos!.
I'm curious to know how you'd define "natural". One has to be very specific on their definition of "natural" when throwing in such claims like "..the best". Let's not forget that nature itself is the source of MANY synthetic (a material that is synthesized in a lab from a natural source OR completely artificially) ingredients. Googling whatever "natural" material you use for its chemical composition i.e. "grapefruit peel (oil) chemical composition" and you will see a list of ingredients that sounds "chemical". EVERYTHING IS CHEMICAL IN THIS WORLD. We all eat those "chemicals" in our daily lives. So I can make a perfume including benzyl acetate (found in jasmine), linalool (found in many citruses and flowers), eugenol (straight up main material of cloves) and a-santalol (main material of sandalwood) - and call it 100% natural and that would be correct in every sense - technically, scientifically, ethically, you name it. Also, if you pay attention to the bottles of your "natural" essential oils, you will see the crazy "hazard" warnings to the respiratory system, environment/aquatic life with permanent impact. So these essential oils are extremely strong essences of the nature, and nature is NOT our perfume source. Nature has these ingredients to attract, defend, repel whatever. And they are not meant to be friendly. So by using naturals, you are not creating something healthy, or environmentally friendly. Mysore sandalwood forests are almost-extinct, the amount of resources, water needed to produce natural perfumery materials are huge, not even mentioning the labor-intensive aspect. And what about synthetics? You can just replicate the material from a drop of the natural sample, and produce forever in a lab. And we are in 2021 - many synthetics are actually biodegradable, they are non-allergen, and have minimal impact on human health/environment (if any). The only part where a natural material is "best" is when there's currently no way of replicating the exact smell - and you need that natural composition - a popular example being the oakmoss absolute. There's really no need to camp on either side is all I'm trying to say I guess. Oh and if restrictions and bans go at this rate, in few decades there will hardly be any room left for perfumes created only by natural essential oils. And wonder if our environment will cope with the consumption rate too.
I got a decent cheap scale off eBay from a link I found on base notes. Its a digital scale SF-400C. It uses batteries or wall outlet. 500g x 0.01g for under 20 bucks. Pretty good for a cheap one until you're ready to buy a nice pricey scale.
I think everyone starts off using the inexpensive $50 or less scale when they first start into this. But eventually once you get a decent $100+ scale.....there's no turning back, lol
In a perfect world you'd use all natural but with alocholic spray generally 30%, agarwood and vetiver plus galbanum I'll use natural. But even with agarwood the only natural agarwood would be indonesian AAA grade which is quite expensive. I've got tonkin deer musk too which is quite pricy also looking at $85 per 3ml, yep that's a roll on. What I generally do is if its more natural I'll do a perfume oil roll on instead generally a better way to go. Al Haramain does a good variety of alcohol to oil based applications. It's a shame too with some of the fragrance plus essential oils because you can get some good ones.
My man I recently got into this as a hobby, been loving all your videos. Can you tell me the clean musks that you like the most? Skin musks also. I have galaxolide, exaltolide total and im looking for more. Id really appreciate this!
Galaxolide is the most transparent and cleanest. E. brassylate is probably another great clean white musk. Muscenone is a very good all around scented musk that is darker and deeper. I really like Auratouch for it's slight fruity sweetness. I could go on and on....there's so many musk's out there....
You’re videos are the best. Oh I wanted to ask...do you make custom perfumes for other people or just for yourself? I thought I wanted to do this all myself but I think I’d rather learn what I want it to smell like then pay someone to make it lol. I’m super busy and this seems time consuming 😩🥴😂😂 thx 🙏🏽
I’ve learned the hard way that’s it’s very difficult to make a specific one-off custom perfumes for people. Mainly, because most customers don’t really know what they want (have so many ideas for their ideal fragrance desires) and you can make batch after batch, and just go in circles with endless possibilities and tweaks. Each tweak will enforce an new idea or a possible new direction to take the fragrance, and in a whirlwind of a circle you go thus never finishing it because of the endless possibilities and endless choices. So I do not make custom one-off perfumes for people. I do however make a range of perfumes, and they can certainly chose and buy from that selection if they so desire and like one of the already finished fragrances from the line.......but I will not make a custom fragrance specifically for an individual, no.
People seem to be on the edge of their seat waiting for me to post, LOL. Its hard to maintain a "weekly post" video, so its been dialed back to every 2-3 weeks.
@@bkscents7050 Yeah I find perfumery takes up alot of time let alone having to upload a YT video. I feel very intimidated with your 400 plus collection, im at about 170 and it can get overwhelming yet I still want more!
About using perfume oils and turning them into sprays that perform..... you absolutely can. Been making them and selling them for 7 months now. You can add DPG, perfumer's alcohol and then let them macerate for about 3-4 weeks and they work perfectly well.
@@heisenberg6334 They're work just fine...... I sell 10ml bottles and put about 1.5ml oil (more or less depending on the oil,) 0.3ml dpg, and fill it with perfumer's alcohol. I then let it sit in the refrigerator for about 2-4 weeks and they come out great. The longer they sit, the better.
For every note if we use 3:1 ratio of Synthetic:Natural, will it increase the sillage and longevity? Like for every 16 drops of Bergamot, if I use 12 drops of Bergamot Aldehyde and 4 drops of essential oil.
I can see fragrance just like I can see music. I can see the colors in my head and I can smell fragrance people discuss without physically smelling them.
You can make nice natural perfumes but most natural perfumers now use natural isolates to get there. Even Lush cosmetics uses synthetics in their perfumes. Natural is easier to start with to learn Imo but you get bored quickly and want to incorporate synthetics unless you're that obsessed with keeping it natural.
Regarding the natural perfumes question, people often don't realize that "natural" ingredients are mostly harvested in environmentally devastating ways i.e. agarwood, vanilla etc. The reason a lot of synthetics were even created was to avoid the environmental impact of growing/harvesting natural ingredients. And that's even before you consider the cost of purchasing something like Rose de Mai or real sandalwood, which are quite pricey. The desire for things to be "natural" is mostly a marketing technique for beauty companies to get consumers thinking that "natural" is "better". Things like bergamot oil, for example, might be natural/organic but are way more restricted by IFRA and can be deadly allergens compared to their synthetic counterparts. There are some fragrance companies that do all-natural scents; Michelle Pfeiffer's Henry Rose fragrance line comes to mind, but like the video says, they don't have quite the same projection or full-bodied quality of a fragrance which employs synthetic aromachemicals.
This comment pretty much nails it! And yes, natural materials (Rose, Tuberorse, orange Blossom, etc) are so terribly expensive...to make an all natural perfume would cost $$$$$$$$$
I often visit a local niche perfume store in my area and since I go there quite often, I know the people who work there pretty well by now. One of the questions they get asked most often by their costumers, is for a "natural" perfume, without "any harmful chemicals". Which is of course ridiculous, but I suppose that people think that at a higher price point, perfumes become more "natural". Because like you said, people associate "natural" with "better". And time and time again, they have to explain to their costumors that even the most expensive brands are almost exclusively synthetic.
I have another question! Why do formulas always add up to 1000? I know it's supposed to represent a kg of concentrate, but whenever I make a formula, I just add whatever amount I feel is necessary. I also work in tiny batches and end up with maybe 300 - 500mg of concentrate on average. In the end, my formula never adds up to 1000 or rarely it's even more. Of course I suppose I could multiple or divide everything by a certain amount to reach 1000, but then the end result would be a very "weird" formula with lots of comma's, while most formulas I find online are very "neat" looking, like e.g. 250 hedione, 100 iso-e-super... You know? Am I missing something? Should I follow some kind of rule or structure?
A formula is simply a percentage ratios. While you can do a formula based on 100 to make it more simple to understand, most people like to use 1,000 so you can see fine details like fraction of percents. An example would be, if a formula that totals 100, one wouldn't be able to see a material that is 0.3% of that formula, because parts 100 doesn't register anything below a single decimal. So most like to do formulas based on parts per 1,000 so you can beging to see the finer details and slight trace amounts added in formulas
Hello, I just found your page and I'm learning a lot. I have a question, where do you source your fragrance notes to formulate your fragrances? And do they ship internationally?
Your the other channel I’ve been watching! Good stuff on there too. Thanks for laudanum dilution video, great tips. I just ordered some, and was hesitant about using it. Btw..you tripped me up with the term kitchen roll, I had to rewind a bunch thinking it was some never heard of perfumery material, until I realized you were talking about what we call paper towels. Lol.
I cant find a website to get all the notes used to make fragrances. Is there a website that has all of the notes for purchase? there are so many im looking for and i cant find them anywhere online.
i have a follow up question to the last question. may be my stupid maths. if you have pre diluted all your ingredients to 5%. how do you then work out how much is needed to make a bottle say of a 20% concentration
If all your materials are prediluted to 5%....the max outcome of the perfume concentration will only be 5%. Have you taken a look at the video I have on the formula spreadsheet calculator? On this it does all the math for you and shows how much of that "5%" material is actually just the raw material (excluding the dilutions) so you can figure out how to make a full 100% strength concentrate using just raw/neat undiluted materials.
One drop is roughly 0.015g to 0.020g depending on the material. You can't control the weight outcome of a single drop ...but you can control the overall final weight of the finished formula. Meaning, you'll have to increase the overall size in weight of the finished formula for accuracy.
Hello Sir.. My name is karan and i am from India... I want to start the perfume business in India with the recreate versions of known brands... Can u help me in teaching me some formulations???
maybe....it depends. The alcohol can be used, but i prefer to use 200 proof Ethanol. The 95% variety may have more of an odor, where the 200 proof is almost odorless. The essential oils will work if you are going for a 100% all natural perfume, but I still feel you will need a few synthetic materials to broaden your material library. But that you have will be a good starting point to start learning from.
If you dont mind i have one more question, do i have to delute each single note of assential oil before i mix in a formula? Or i can just mix the essential oils togheter before i add the fixative ,dpg and alcohol? Thank you
@@fastrunlogistics3560 you dont have to, you can certainly use all the oils 100% strength. But you will find some oils have a stronger odor strength than other, and those you may want to pre-dilute to tame the odor strength to make it easier to dose appropriately. Theres nothing more frustrating when making a blend, and then adding a single drop of one STRONG material and having that single drop ruin your blend. Its those intensely strong ones you will want to pre-dilute so they are not so strong when you dose them
Hey BK! Another great video! I have a question - or rather I’m looking for advice. I have been playing around with musks a fair bit, and am struggling with the animatic musks; I simply cannot understand how or why anyone would want to use them! I feel like I’m missing something, when I smell Tonquitone or Shangralide (my only animalistic musks) all I smell is animal piss LOL. What are your thoughts on these types of materials? How do you use them?
These are great musks, and yes some can be a bit too pissy/animalic.....but that’s not to say they aren’t useful. Generally you can go heavy handed with the cleaner musks (glalaxalide/ethyl brassylate/tonalide/appelide/etc) and use those to do the bulk of the work. But add in some of the more dirty animalic ones in combination with these, but at a much lesser amount. So if you have a formula where you want to have your musks at about 15% of the total perfume concentrate, try it with a musk combo like galaxolide using 10%, and maybe something like Muscenone at 4%, and then toniquitone at 1%.....so the combination of these 3 musks will take up around 15% of your perfumes concentrate. I tend to always blend different musks to fit the perfumes theme....and certainly would never let toniquitone do the bulk of the musk work alone.
I too am also having trouble with Musks. Firstly, I can't smell them (apparently 50% of the population can't smell some musks like Galaxolide and Habanolide). But secondly, I would love to have someone chart out all the different types of white musks with some guidance on which ones are soft or animalic or clean or skin-type. And when to use which for what purpose. A video on Musks types and uses would be super helpful.
Same with me. My wife can smell polycyclic musks, but I can’t. I second the musk video! Seriously BK, set up a PayPal or patreon account and just post the link in description. You don’t have to 🤑solicit for money if you feel weird about it, but you have saved me money with these videos and I can at least pass a few bucks along for the info.
@@wib6044 A musk video will be on the way, i have about 10-11 different ones now, but id like to expand this and get more before I do a full musk video so i dont leave out any big ones. As far as patreon......nah, its not my style. The whole sole purpose of this channel is to pass along info, tips/tricks that's open to the public who are willing to watch and learn along with me. The whole "secrecy" within perfumery kinda bothers me, so im not necessarily trying to break the mold, ...but I am trying to get useful info out there in the public eye and not be so secretive with perfumery info, formulas, how-to's, etc
I am trying to create my first perfume and I am struggling with using essentials oils among ingredients which also include aroma chemicals. I am using about 15% of essentials oils in the mix which includes ylang ylang EO, Cinnamon EO, Bergamot EO. The remaining formula is all aroma chemicals like Iso E Super, Polysantol, Galaxolide and others. When I mix the above with ethanol it turns white in color and oil settles down at bottom after a minute or 2. Can you help me in finding my mistake please?
Without knowing the whole formula, or the 'type' of ethanol alcohol you are using....I'm willing to bet its the ylang ylang oil causing it. Too much ylang will cause cloudiness.
@@bkscents7050 Ingredient Drops Tonka Bean EO 6 Galaxolide 15 Iso E Super 13 Hedione 7 Polysantol 7 Lyral 7 Dihydromyrcenol 10 Ylang Ylang EO 3 Bergamot EO 5 Cinnamon EO 3 to my surprise the end mixture was smelling all Cinnamon.
@@bkscents7050 thank you so much for replying. I'll try another version without ylang ylang. Also I acquired the ethanol (but I suspect it is Iso Propyl Alcohol) from local market in my area. Now I have ordered perfume grade ethanol online and I am waiting for the same. I have given all the ingredients and quantities in previous comment
I can't decipher based on drops....I need to know weight. But yes, even based on drops.... cinnamon Bark is super strong and your gonna need to lower that considerably
@@bkscents7050 Got it! I'll dilute the cinnamon oil before use the next time I plan on using it. Thank you so much for responding. Really needed to get clarity on this one. Cheers :)
Question 1: You really didn't answer the question. If that's not how it works tell us how it does work. If we can't use fragrance oils then what can we use and how do we mix it? Question 2: Simple answer is actually Yes. One word: Fixative.
And why sometimes people sniffing a parfum and detect, this is smell cheap and syntetic ?, I think a good perfume uses essential oils to smell expensive
I'm surprised you didn't mention musk as a single ingredient that can enhance long./proj./sill., it'd be a nice experiment to do an all natural eo perfume, but with a % of galaxolide, would it be enough to transform the hippy juice into a professional quality juice?
Adding Musk alone in an all natural perfume won't enhance projection. Most over the counter Perfumes that you find in retail stores are about 90-95% synthetic. In order to make something from "hippie juice" to designer style.....it takes alot more than just adding galaxolide, lol
There are people out there doing that. Can’t remember the interview perfumer, but basically that is what she did. 95+% naturals and just a dab of basic synthetics like hedione, iso e, musks. I think it was a podcast on American perfumery if I recall correctly.
I just want to thank you! Your videos are one of my most useful resources for learning if not THE most useful resource. There aren’t many of these types of videos out there and yours are certainly the most thorough. Thank you so much!
Thank you for watching! 😃
Thank you for all your teachings. You may think you're rambling but within is a lot of information.
Good explanation of creating a frag that has projection and longevity. I've found that it's the combination of notes chosen along with the fixatives you use with those notes. Also, allow what you make to macerate for making a judgment.
It’s true that fragrance/perfume oils are not ideal for making rich-smelling perfume sprays but before I started using synthetic aroma chemicals, I did start off with fragrance oils and found some of them to be of very decent quality for making long-lasting body mists and some of them smelled quite good - but, almost always, there was that richness element missing. I did have other uses for them (making scented lotion, using them in aroma diffusers and wallflowers, as mentioned in the video.) The problem with fragrance/perfume oils is that you have to try and use a lot, and spend a lot of money, to finally find the few of them that can closely perform like proper perfumery ingredients. They also don’t usually age as well as actual perfumery ingredients (when mixed with perfumer’s alcohol.) Once I got into using synthetic aroma chemicals, I found myself creating fragrances that smell like rich perfumes far sooner than I expected, with good sillage and long-lasting power. If a perfume I’ve formulated lasts on my clothes for longer than half a day then I consider it a success 😄.
Perfumery is an expensive pursuit. Buying aroma samples helped me narrow down the scents i like working with. Will expand my scent library once i get more experience :)
Good tip. It can also help us be better consumers even if we don't pursue making perfumes. At this stage, I'm just trying to learn the language--to describe a fragrance or understand someone else's description.
Your video is amazing! Super useful for any beginner. Please keep on upload new video
These videos are so good for a new beginner like me 👍🏻 I'm struggling to come up with a way to make a linear odour profile like you said in your older videos but I guess that's part of the learning curve. I've also tried out the spreadsheet and it's super helpful 🔝 After using it I realized why my first "good" smelling fragrance only lasted for like 15 minutes, I only had like 6 percent basenotes haha 😂 keep up the good work dude can't wait to be able to share something good myself 😀
In my experience so far, the only way to create something anything like a perfume that is linear is to use aroma molecules.
The top notes don’t last more than an hour on my skin. Sandalwood or myrrh etc. will last a long time, but it’s going to smell like that individual oil.
The common absolutes (jasmine, rose, ylang) are so restricted you can’t use enough in a blend to last very long.
All the natural blends I have created change every 5 minutes.
Even just using hedione and iso e super, have made a huge improvement in creating linear and longer lasting scents.
What have you tried in terms of synthetics?
@@wib6044 I've purchased a starterkit with 20 ac's so I've been tinkering around with those. I've got Timbersilk instead of Iso e super and some other cool stuff like Calone, dyhydromircynal (spelling😂), cis 3 hexenol and some other stuff so I'm probably gonna focus on creating something with only the ac's and then back them up with some naturals 😊
Cool! I love calone. Hated DHM out of the bottle, but have been adding in small amounts to existing blends and it seems to be helping with projection. Just ordered cis3.
Same with benzyl acetate if you haven’t used it yet. The acetate smells like nail polish remover, but again in small amounts makes the naturals bloom.
Look into accords for linear scents. I have been inadvertently creating them in my blends. Instead of bergamot, lavender, then frankincense then sandal wood on the dry down. I’ll get the top notes and then it dries down to one fragrance for the rest of its life.
I still don’t have a clue what I’m doing, but the results I’m getting seem to be good so far.
@@wib6044 Me too! I didn't think I would but it adds so much freshness that I really enjoy it for now. Nope haven't used BA but prob will soon enough. I'm at the point now where I'm following bk's advice and just doing 2 materials at a time and so on but I'm also desperate to create a accord of some kind lol 😂 I did the grosjman accord and find it really nice but would like to create something by myself also but hey, like you said, I havent got a clue on what I'm doing either 😁 I really like pink pepper for some reason so Im gonna try create a nice zingy topnote tonight 👍🏻😁
Hey any updates how is it coming along? I finally learned about the grosjman accord you mentioned about 6 months ago or so.
Went ahead and ordered Methyl ionone Gamma and man I’ve been missing out. Made something with it at full strength and man just a drop turned the clock back to 1987!😂. It is powerful too.
Have since diluted to 10% and it is really helpful in boosting projection.
Ambrette is a plant musk replacement that works well with essential oils
Thanks for sharing your experience and information. Plus the Perfume Fragrance spreadsheet 😀👍🏼
Very good and useful video. Those like us who love PERFUMES and try to make it, are interested in watching more videos like this.
Best Perfumery Channel 💪🏽 Please do a video explaining maceration of the perfume concentrate on small and large scale please. Will leaving the concentrate to sit for longer produce better end product and should u do it before or after the alcohol is added. Love from london 🙏🏽
love the fact you have playing two of my fav tracks by John Mayer Love on the Weekend & Waiting on the world to change👍🏾
Who gives a F??
All natural spray may be not, but attar for sure. But traces of synthetics are still needed
Usually agree with you but Natural Perfumes are the best. You have to be patient in your learning curve. I enjoy a lot your lessons but I only make natural perfumes. Not interested in chemicals for a quick fix but whole, sexy well-rounded perfumes are for me. To each's own. Thanks for your awesome videos!.
I'm curious to know how you'd define "natural". One has to be very specific on their definition of "natural" when throwing in such claims like "..the best". Let's not forget that nature itself is the source of MANY synthetic (a material that is synthesized in a lab from a natural source OR completely artificially) ingredients. Googling whatever "natural" material you use for its chemical composition i.e. "grapefruit peel (oil) chemical composition" and you will see a list of ingredients that sounds "chemical". EVERYTHING IS CHEMICAL IN THIS WORLD. We all eat those "chemicals" in our daily lives. So I can make a perfume including benzyl acetate (found in jasmine), linalool (found in many citruses and flowers), eugenol (straight up main material of cloves) and a-santalol (main material of sandalwood) - and call it 100% natural and that would be correct in every sense - technically, scientifically, ethically, you name it.
Also, if you pay attention to the bottles of your "natural" essential oils, you will see the crazy "hazard" warnings to the respiratory system, environment/aquatic life with permanent impact. So these essential oils are extremely strong essences of the nature, and nature is NOT our perfume source. Nature has these ingredients to attract, defend, repel whatever. And they are not meant to be friendly. So by using naturals, you are not creating something healthy, or environmentally friendly. Mysore sandalwood forests are almost-extinct, the amount of resources, water needed to produce natural perfumery materials are huge, not even mentioning the labor-intensive aspect.
And what about synthetics? You can just replicate the material from a drop of the natural sample, and produce forever in a lab. And we are in 2021 - many synthetics are actually biodegradable, they are non-allergen, and have minimal impact on human health/environment (if any).
The only part where a natural material is "best" is when there's currently no way of replicating the exact smell - and you need that natural composition - a popular example being the oakmoss absolute.
There's really no need to camp on either side is all I'm trying to say I guess.
Oh and if restrictions and bans go at this rate, in few decades there will hardly be any room left for perfumes created only by natural essential oils. And wonder if our environment will cope with the consumption rate too.
@@emrego873 An excellent and informed comment emrego, thank you. You do a service to objectivity in a world full of unicorns and fairy tales.
Good biggner & basics questions & good Answer are U Sir💌🌿 thanx U Sir
Good video
I got a decent cheap scale off eBay from a link I found on base notes. Its a digital scale SF-400C. It uses batteries or wall outlet. 500g x 0.01g for under 20 bucks. Pretty good for a cheap one until you're ready to buy a nice pricey scale.
I think everyone starts off using the inexpensive $50 or less scale when they first start into this. But eventually once you get a decent $100+ scale.....there's no turning back, lol
In a perfect world you'd use all natural but with alocholic spray generally 30%, agarwood and vetiver plus galbanum I'll use natural. But even with agarwood the only natural agarwood would be indonesian AAA grade which is quite expensive. I've got tonkin deer musk too which is quite pricy also looking at $85 per 3ml, yep that's a roll on. What I generally do is if its more natural I'll do a perfume oil roll on instead generally a better way to go. Al Haramain does a good variety of alcohol to oil based applications. It's a shame too with some of the fragrance plus essential oils because you can get some good ones.
My man I recently got into this as a hobby, been loving all your videos. Can you tell me the clean musks that you like the most? Skin musks also. I have galaxolide, exaltolide total and im looking for more. Id really appreciate this!
Galaxolide is the most transparent and cleanest. E. brassylate is probably another great clean white musk. Muscenone is a very good all around scented musk that is darker and deeper. I really like Auratouch for it's slight fruity sweetness. I could go on and on....there's so many musk's out there....
@@bkscents7050 thank you very much!! I’ll be trying all of them. Regards from the caribbean 👍🏼
Great channel!
You’re videos are the best. Oh I wanted to ask...do you make custom perfumes for other people or just for yourself? I thought I wanted to do this all myself but I think I’d rather learn what I want it to smell like then pay someone to make it lol. I’m super busy and this seems time consuming 😩🥴😂😂 thx 🙏🏽
I’ve learned the hard way that’s it’s very difficult to make a specific one-off custom perfumes for people. Mainly, because most customers don’t really know what they want (have so many ideas for their ideal fragrance desires) and you can make batch after batch, and just go in circles with endless possibilities and tweaks. Each tweak will enforce an new idea or a possible new direction to take the fragrance, and in a whirlwind of a circle you go thus never finishing it because of the endless possibilities and endless choices. So I do not make custom one-off perfumes for people. I do however make a range of perfumes, and they can certainly chose and buy from that selection if they so desire and like one of the already finished fragrances from the line.......but I will not make a custom fragrance specifically for an individual, no.
How you been BK, literally been waiting for you to upload haha
People seem to be on the edge of their seat waiting for me to post, LOL. Its hard to maintain a "weekly post" video, so its been dialed back to every 2-3 weeks.
@@bkscents7050 Yeah I find perfumery takes up alot of time let alone having to upload a YT video. I feel very intimidated with your 400 plus collection, im at about 170 and it can get overwhelming yet I still want more!
About using perfume oils and turning them into sprays that perform..... you absolutely can. Been making them and selling them for 7 months now.
You can add DPG, perfumer's alcohol and then let them macerate for about 3-4 weeks and they work perfectly well.
Do you have a site ? I heard using any oil is the wrong way to go
@@heisenberg6334 They're work just fine...... I sell 10ml bottles and put about 1.5ml oil (more or less depending on the oil,) 0.3ml dpg, and fill it with perfumer's alcohol. I then let it sit in the refrigerator for about 2-4 weeks and they come out great.
The longer they sit, the better.
For every note if we use 3:1 ratio of Synthetic:Natural, will it increase the sillage and longevity? Like for every 16 drops of Bergamot, if I use 12 drops of Bergamot Aldehyde and 4 drops of essential oil.
Oooooh! I like this idea. I think it probably will. Also it will decrease the cost without sacrificing the quality.
I can see fragrance just like I can see music. I can see the colors in my head and I can smell fragrance people discuss without physically smelling them.
I know exactly what you mean!!!
You can make nice natural perfumes but most natural perfumers now use natural isolates to get there. Even Lush cosmetics uses synthetics in their perfumes. Natural is easier to start with to learn Imo but you get bored quickly and want to incorporate synthetics unless you're that obsessed with keeping it natural.
If you mix 4ml of essential oils with 16ml of carrier oil, it becomes a natural perfume. You don't want to put essential oils directly over your skin.
This is a great vid..thanks so much BK :D
Thank you
Regarding the natural perfumes question, people often don't realize that "natural" ingredients are mostly harvested in environmentally devastating ways i.e. agarwood, vanilla etc. The reason a lot of synthetics were even created was to avoid the environmental impact of growing/harvesting natural ingredients. And that's even before you consider the cost of purchasing something like Rose de Mai or real sandalwood, which are quite pricey.
The desire for things to be "natural" is mostly a marketing technique for beauty companies to get consumers thinking that "natural" is "better". Things like bergamot oil, for example, might be natural/organic but are way more restricted by IFRA and can be deadly allergens compared to their synthetic counterparts.
There are some fragrance companies that do all-natural scents; Michelle Pfeiffer's Henry Rose fragrance line comes to mind, but like the video says, they don't have quite the same projection or full-bodied quality of a fragrance which employs synthetic aromachemicals.
This comment pretty much nails it! And yes, natural materials (Rose, Tuberorse, orange Blossom, etc) are so terribly expensive...to make an all natural perfume would cost $$$$$$$$$
I often visit a local niche perfume store in my area and since I go there quite often, I know the people who work there pretty well by now. One of the questions they get asked most often by their costumers, is for a "natural" perfume, without "any harmful chemicals". Which is of course ridiculous, but I suppose that people think that at a higher price point, perfumes become more "natural". Because like you said, people associate "natural" with "better". And time and time again, they have to explain to their costumors that even the most expensive brands are almost exclusively synthetic.
Don't you need carrier oil in alcohol based perfume to mix the essential oils because the essential oil can irritate the skin if applied directly.
Can you pls share a best perfume formula which can be easy to make
I have another question! Why do formulas always add up to 1000? I know it's supposed to represent a kg of concentrate, but whenever I make a formula, I just add whatever amount I feel is necessary. I also work in tiny batches and end up with maybe 300 - 500mg of concentrate on average. In the end, my formula never adds up to 1000 or rarely it's even more. Of course I suppose I could multiple or divide everything by a certain amount to reach 1000, but then the end result would be a very "weird" formula with lots of comma's, while most formulas I find online are very "neat" looking, like e.g. 250 hedione, 100 iso-e-super... You know? Am I missing something? Should I follow some kind of rule or structure?
A formula is simply a percentage ratios. While you can do a formula based on 100 to make it more simple to understand, most people like to use 1,000 so you can see fine details like fraction of percents. An example would be, if a formula that totals 100, one wouldn't be able to see a material that is 0.3% of that formula, because parts 100 doesn't register anything below a single decimal. So most like to do formulas based on parts per 1,000 so you can beging to see the finer details and slight trace amounts added in formulas
Hello, I just found your page and I'm learning a lot. I have a question, where do you source your fragrance notes to formulate your fragrances? And do they ship internationally?
My main sources are perfumersapprentice.com, perfumersupplyhouse.com, and libterynatural.com. I do believe they ship internationally too.
Can you post this video on my channel as well 😂? Great job 👏
Hahahha....you get me and know exactly what I mean.
Your the other channel I’ve been watching! Good stuff on there too. Thanks for laudanum dilution video, great tips. I just ordered some, and was hesitant about using it.
Btw..you tripped me up with the term kitchen roll, I had to rewind a bunch thinking it was some never heard of perfumery material, until I realized you were talking about what we call paper towels. Lol.
@@wib6044 Hahaha 😂😂😂. And thanks dude.
Do you think brand name houses using higher end materials than we can buy??
Good day! Sir what are the type of fixative use in perfume making,
nice video
I cant find a website to get all the notes used to make fragrances. Is there a website that has all of the notes for purchase? there are so many im looking for and i cant find them anywhere online.
good channel, subscribed. i think you should improve the audio on your channel. cheers from indonesia
Thank you 🙂
I'm making a room spray of peppermint, lemon and lavender essential oils, which fixative can i use?..i need it long lasting and beautiful smelling
When do you use a carrier essential oil’s ?
i have a follow up question to the last question. may be my stupid maths. if you have pre diluted all your ingredients to 5%. how do you then work out how much is needed to make a bottle say of a 20% concentration
If all your materials are prediluted to 5%....the max outcome of the perfume concentration will only be 5%. Have you taken a look at the video I have on the formula spreadsheet calculator? On this it does all the math for you and shows how much of that "5%" material is actually just the raw material (excluding the dilutions) so you can figure out how to make a full 100% strength concentrate using just raw/neat undiluted materials.
Nice channel and good info. > subscribed
If you now really need a scale, and one drop is 0,5g and another 0,8 how do you controll they weight outcome??? The drops is different anyway
One drop is roughly 0.015g to 0.020g depending on the material. You can't control the weight outcome of a single drop ...but you can control the overall final weight of the finished formula. Meaning, you'll have to increase the overall size in weight of the finished formula for accuracy.
Nice video .How many days we have to wait for aging after mixing perfume oil and ethanol ?
78
Sir. How bursting my agarbati parfium
Wheb you make a bigger batch in a jar of your fragrance u made do you use a bigger s scale??
Nah....my scale has 300g max capabilities, which is enough to make a decent amount of concentrate to make many EDT or EDP bottles of Perfume
Can you mak me 500ml Dior fahrenheit i or similar f so how much??
Hello Sir..
My name is karan and i am from India...
I want to start the perfume business in India with the recreate versions of known brands...
Can u help me in teaching me some formulations???
What's your ratio natural to synthetic
67:5
It would be great if you can recreate this video 🙌🏼
Do you own ambroxan? I never hear you mention it
I sure do.....I have the Kao version, ambrox super, cetalox.....
@@bkscents7050 thanks
I bought essential oils from amazon and ethanol alcohol 95%, fixative and dpg,,did i get the right stuff?
maybe....it depends. The alcohol can be used, but i prefer to use 200 proof Ethanol. The 95% variety may have more of an odor, where the 200 proof is almost odorless. The essential oils will work if you are going for a 100% all natural perfume, but I still feel you will need a few synthetic materials to broaden your material library. But that you have will be a good starting point to start learning from.
@@bkscents7050 thank you
If you dont mind i have one more question, do i have to delute each single note of assential oil before i mix in a formula? Or i can just mix the essential oils togheter before i add the fixative ,dpg and alcohol? Thank you
@@fastrunlogistics3560 you dont have to, you can certainly use all the oils 100% strength. But you will find some oils have a stronger odor strength than other, and those you may want to pre-dilute to tame the odor strength to make it easier to dose appropriately. Theres nothing more frustrating when making a blend, and then adding a single drop of one STRONG material and having that single drop ruin your blend. Its those intensely strong ones you will want to pre-dilute so they are not so strong when you dose them
@@bkscents7050 makes sense, appreciate your time and videos, thanks again
Hey BK! Another great video! I have a question - or rather I’m looking for advice. I have been playing around with musks a fair bit, and am struggling with the animatic musks; I simply cannot understand how or why anyone would want to use them! I feel like I’m missing something, when I smell Tonquitone or Shangralide (my only animalistic musks) all I smell is animal piss LOL. What are your thoughts on these types of materials? How do you use them?
These are great musks, and yes some can be a bit too pissy/animalic.....but that’s not to say they aren’t useful. Generally you can go heavy handed with the cleaner musks (glalaxalide/ethyl brassylate/tonalide/appelide/etc) and use those to do the bulk of the work. But add in some of the more dirty animalic ones in combination with these, but at a much lesser amount. So if you have a formula where you want to have your musks at about 15% of the total perfume concentrate, try it with a musk combo like galaxolide using 10%, and maybe something like Muscenone at 4%, and then toniquitone at 1%.....so the combination of these 3 musks will take up around 15% of your perfumes concentrate. I tend to always blend different musks to fit the perfumes theme....and certainly would never let toniquitone do the bulk of the musk work alone.
I too am also having trouble with Musks. Firstly, I can't smell them (apparently 50% of the population can't smell some musks like Galaxolide and Habanolide). But secondly, I would love to have someone chart out all the different types of white musks with some guidance on which ones are soft or animalic or clean or skin-type. And when to use which for what purpose. A video on Musks types and uses would be super helpful.
Same with me. My wife can smell polycyclic musks, but I can’t.
I second the musk video!
Seriously BK, set up a PayPal or patreon account and just post the link in description. You don’t have to 🤑solicit for money if you feel weird about it, but you have saved me money with these videos and I can at least pass a few bucks along for the info.
@@wib6044 A musk video will be on the way, i have about 10-11 different ones now, but id like to expand this and get more before I do a full musk video so i dont leave out any big ones.
As far as patreon......nah, its not my style. The whole sole purpose of this channel is to pass along info, tips/tricks that's open to the public who are willing to watch and learn along with me. The whole "secrecy" within perfumery kinda bothers me, so im not necessarily trying to break the mold, ...but I am trying to get useful info out there in the public eye and not be so secretive with perfumery info, formulas, how-to's, etc
@@bkscents7050 amazing! Can’t wait to see it!
I am trying to create my first perfume and I am struggling with using essentials oils among ingredients which also include aroma chemicals.
I am using about 15% of essentials oils in the mix which includes ylang ylang EO, Cinnamon EO, Bergamot EO. The remaining formula is all aroma chemicals like Iso E Super, Polysantol, Galaxolide and others.
When I mix the above with ethanol it turns white in color and oil settles down at bottom after a minute or 2.
Can you help me in finding my mistake please?
Without knowing the whole formula, or the 'type' of ethanol alcohol you are using....I'm willing to bet its the ylang ylang oil causing it. Too much ylang will cause cloudiness.
@@bkscents7050
Ingredient Drops
Tonka Bean EO 6
Galaxolide 15
Iso E Super 13
Hedione 7
Polysantol 7
Lyral 7
Dihydromyrcenol 10
Ylang Ylang EO 3
Bergamot EO 5
Cinnamon EO 3
to my surprise the end mixture was smelling all Cinnamon.
@@bkscents7050 thank you so much for replying. I'll try another version without ylang ylang.
Also I acquired the ethanol (but I suspect it is Iso Propyl Alcohol) from local market in my area. Now I have ordered perfume grade ethanol online and I am waiting for the same.
I have given all the ingredients and quantities in previous comment
I can't decipher based on drops....I need to know weight. But yes, even based on drops.... cinnamon Bark is super strong and your gonna need to lower that considerably
@@bkscents7050 Got it! I'll dilute the cinnamon oil before use the next time I plan on using it.
Thank you so much for responding. Really needed to get clarity on this one. Cheers :)
How can i contact you personally
hi, that small speakers behind you are Avanton...?
Old pair of Event BAS 20/20s.....good catch!
@@bkscents7050 hello actually I am sound engineer that's why and learning perfumery also...
Music and Perfumery are the same joys....you get to create and be free with your creations
are you a smoker I've noticed your throat you're having issues may wanna get a checkup
just looking out for you
Question 1: You really didn't answer the question. If that's not how it works tell us how it does work. If we can't use fragrance oils then what can we use and how do we mix it?
Question 2: Simple answer is actually Yes. One word: Fixative.
And why sometimes people sniffing a parfum and detect, this is smell cheap and syntetic ?, I think a good perfume uses essential oils to smell expensive
Honestly don't understand anything you say
I'm surprised you didn't mention musk as a single ingredient that can enhance long./proj./sill., it'd be a nice experiment to do an all natural eo perfume, but with a % of galaxolide, would it be enough to transform the hippy juice into a professional quality juice?
Adding Musk alone in an all natural perfume won't enhance projection. Most over the counter Perfumes that you find in retail stores are about 90-95% synthetic. In order to make something from "hippie juice" to designer style.....it takes alot more than just adding galaxolide, lol
@@bkscents7050 I think it's still worth a try, it would make a nice video!
There are people out there doing that. Can’t remember the interview perfumer, but basically that is what she did. 95+% naturals and just a dab of basic synthetics like hedione, iso e, musks. I think it was a podcast on American perfumery if I recall correctly.