Hey jumperman great videos I’m currently at the tail end of my HVACR program and I have to say your videos are very help and gives a good insight on what day to day service calls look like. Thanks
Thx for the confirmation. I've guessed from the start that it could be the capacitor when you mentioned that the compressor was trying to start. Right now, im in school for hvac and subscribed and definitely going to watch your service call videos to learn some more 😊.
The proper and ( SAFE ) way to discharge a capacitor is to set your meter on D/C voltage and put your probes on cap, and It will slowly start to drain it. I won 50 bucks off a guy one time when I told him I could OHM out a capacitor and find out if it's good or not. He goes I don't give a fk who taught you refrigeration you can't ohm out a cap. So we go to his van he get's out a cap I take his meter set to DC and drain it. Then I go NOW I am going to set your meter to Ohms and use your 9 volt battery in your meter to charge this capacitor If it's good you will start to see the readings rise which it did because it was new. After he picked his jaw up off the ground and handed me 50 bucks he drove off highly upset.
I noticed at the 4:22 time stamp you stated even though the system was marked as R-12, it was actually using R-134a. I understand that your reasoning for that statement was the phaseout of R-12 many years ago. However, if that system was actually using R-134a as you stated, it should have been CLEARLY remarked by the contractor that did the work with R-134a identifiers to indicate a refrigerant retrofit took place on the system. That is standard procedure for all refrigerant retrofits. Since that wasn't done, many technicians would think that was an old R-12 system that never went through a retrofit. Also, the low pressure switch setpoints would tell a technician if the cut-in and differential setpoints were set on the correct setpoints for the refrigerant type being used. I would look at those setpoints to see if they were truly set up for R-134a or if the setpoints were set up for R-12 pressure/temperature. That system could just be an old system that has stood the test of time and still has R-12 in it. I use the phrase "stood the test of time" until now that you were dispatched on to this service call where it has obviously finally shut down.
Good job with fault finding, and you are right wires not looking good. Wiring must be neat and easy to follow. Please share your follow up video links.. Thank you.
Electronic leak detector or ultrasonic leak detector - Small system easy to find in my opinion. Water regulating valve notorious for leaking as well as service valves. Bad electrical connections at the compressor can cause voltage fluctuations, overheating, and arcing, leading to capacitor failure. Low refrigerant levels may result in overheating, increased start/stop cycles, and excessive strain on the capacitors. Voltage issues, such as surges or low voltage, also stress capacitors by forcing the motor to draw higher amperage. Additionally, environmental factors like high temperatures, moisture, and vibrations can accelerate wear. Age-related degradation and frequent hard starts further contribute to capacitor failure. I believe the capacitor failure is secondary to other issues. Start by checking for refrigerant leaks using an electronic leak detector and repair any leaks. Replace the liquid line filter drier and the contactor or relays to ensure reliable operation. It’s intriguing to see a water-cooled condenser still in use-evaluate whether the system is worth repairing. During the repair process, check the water inlet and outlet temperatures to ensure a 10°F temperature split across the coil, which indicates proper heat transfer and water flow. Sell them an air-cooled condensing unit. However air-cooled condenser, require a better location verify for adequate air circulation. While some may comment on capacitor discharge procedures, they are not putting themselves out there in videos. (for the most part),
You too man. I was looking for this kind of explanation and demonstration that is very rare. Hope to see the video when you did the work on this unit. Well done bro.
Hey Boss excellent breakdown, i have a question, I'm studying for a test which type of cartridge fuse used in a industrial refrigeration one time fuse, time delay fuse, tube fuse with reset or plug fuse with reset?
Are they using a boiler for heat add for the loop? Anytime i work on a coaxial system i always do a quick backflush, unless its glycol. It takes a few minutes and very little amount of tools ( i don't disagree with your methods at all ) that unit needs some help
Thanks for pointing that out & for watching! Stay tuned for new videos every week🔧⚡️ Follow up video link (Refrigerant Leak Repair) ruclips.net/video/7sICT9-0nAQ/видео.html
Thank you! Haha I always use the M12 cordless drop light but it went missing so I went with the cord! Lol. Hate using a cord😂 Stay tuned for new videos every week 🔧⚡
I am interested in learning more about this walk in freezers. I like the way you explained it. What of brad and kind of tools you use to check the high and low on the compressor?
Hey jumperman great videos I’m currently at the tail end of my HVACR program and I have to say your videos are very help and gives a good insight on what day to day service calls look like. Thanks
Same here
I just started my program but im excited
Same here 💪🏽🙌🏼👌🏽
Thx for the confirmation. I've guessed from the start that it could be the capacitor when you mentioned that the compressor was trying to start. Right now, im in school for hvac and subscribed and definitely going to watch your service call videos to learn some more 😊.
fantastic job!! I really appreciate how thorough you are w your craft & make sure you do it RIGHT & CLEAN & WELL. TY JMT🌟
Thank you! Stay tuned for new videos every week🔧
The proper and ( SAFE ) way to discharge a capacitor is to set your meter on D/C voltage and put your probes on cap, and It will slowly start to drain it. I won 50 bucks off a guy one time when I told him I could OHM out a capacitor and find out if it's good or not. He goes I don't give a fk who taught you refrigeration you can't ohm out a cap. So we go to his van he get's out a cap I take his meter set to DC and drain it. Then I go NOW I am going to set your meter to Ohms and use your 9 volt battery in your meter to charge this capacitor If it's good you will start to see the readings rise which it did because it was new. After he picked his jaw up off the ground and handed me 50 bucks he drove off highly upset.
Damn bro thanks for the tip. gonna try me to score 50 bucks as well
Love it man. I would be one of those guys to double check to make sure if the part is 100% bad but love your trouble shooting process
I noticed at the 4:22 time stamp you stated even though the system was marked as R-12, it was actually using R-134a. I understand that your reasoning for that statement was the phaseout of R-12 many years ago. However, if that system was actually using R-134a as you stated, it should have been CLEARLY remarked by the contractor that did the work with R-134a identifiers to indicate a refrigerant retrofit took place on the system. That is standard procedure for all refrigerant retrofits. Since that wasn't done, many technicians would think that was an old R-12 system that never went through a retrofit. Also, the low pressure switch setpoints would tell a technician if the cut-in and differential setpoints were set on the correct setpoints for the refrigerant type being used. I would look at those setpoints to see if they were truly set up for R-134a or if the setpoints were set up for R-12 pressure/temperature. That system could just be an old system that has stood the test of time and still has R-12 in it. I use the phrase "stood the test of time" until now that you were dispatched on to this service call where it has obviously finally shut down.
Very good points
Good job with fault finding, and you are right wires not looking good. Wiring must be neat and easy to follow. Please share your follow up video links.. Thank you.
Electronic leak detector or ultrasonic leak detector - Small system easy to find in my opinion. Water regulating valve notorious for leaking as well as service valves. Bad electrical connections at the compressor can cause voltage fluctuations, overheating, and arcing, leading to capacitor failure. Low refrigerant levels may result in overheating, increased start/stop cycles, and excessive strain on the capacitors. Voltage issues, such as surges or low voltage, also stress capacitors by forcing the motor to draw higher amperage. Additionally, environmental factors like high temperatures, moisture, and vibrations can accelerate wear. Age-related degradation and frequent hard starts further contribute to capacitor failure. I believe the capacitor failure is secondary to other issues. Start by checking for refrigerant leaks using an electronic leak detector and repair any leaks. Replace the liquid line filter drier and the contactor or relays to ensure reliable operation. It’s intriguing to see a water-cooled condenser still in use-evaluate whether the system is worth repairing. During the repair process, check the water inlet and outlet temperatures to ensure a 10°F temperature split across the coil, which indicates proper heat transfer and water flow. Sell them an air-cooled condensing unit. However air-cooled condenser, require a better location verify for adequate air circulation. While some may comment on capacitor discharge procedures, they are not putting themselves out there in videos. (for the most part),
You too man.
I was looking for this kind of explanation and demonstration that is very rare.
Hope to see the video when you did the work on this unit.
Well done bro.
Top man
Great move, turning the meter off and then verifying.
Hey Boss excellent breakdown, i have a question, I'm studying for a test which type of cartridge fuse used in a industrial refrigeration one time fuse, time delay fuse, tube fuse with reset or plug fuse with reset?
You are really good man. I watch this several time.
I would have fixed it on the spot.. Id have found the leak, fixed the leak, reclaimed the system, and recharged it. No need for a second service call.
Most people would reclaim it then repair and recharge it instead of repairing it, reclaiming it then recharging it.
If it were me, I'm built different, so it wouldn't be problem
Oh okay, u should make some videos too!
Good video. When you have a potential relay there should be a bleed resister on the start capacity.
💯 safety first! Thank you! Stay tuned for new videos every week🔧
Watched this video in my tech school. Thank you for sharing.
Interesting and helpful video. Great job as always.
Thank you! Appreciate your comment & support 🙌🔧⚡
Should have slugged some refrigerant in it to keep their food cold till the next weekday then come back and do a leak search
That’s probably what he did off camera. It’s illegal to do that if you know there’s a leak in the system.
It's illegal? Really?
@stangaloski4208 its most definitely illegal in Europe anyway as if you know its leaking you might aswel vent refrigerant out to atmosphere
In the United States it needs to exceed a leak rate for it to need to be condemned
Ur not supposed to do dat goofy
You the man bro keep knocking them down
Thank you! Stay tuned for new videos every week🔧⚡️
Always great content my man!
Thank you brother! Stay tuned for new videos every week🔧⚡️🤙
Bro unbelievable 😂 u on all the systems 👏
As always excellent content
Thank you Musa! Appreciate you! 🙌🔧⚡
Great work tech 👍
Thank you dude! Appreciate it🤙🔧⚡
Are they using a boiler for heat add for the loop? Anytime i work on a coaxial system i always do a quick backflush, unless its glycol. It takes a few minutes and very little amount of tools ( i don't disagree with your methods at all ) that unit needs some help
I didn't see the link in the description for the follow-up video.
Thanks for pointing that out & for watching! Stay tuned for new videos every week🔧⚡️
Follow up video link (Refrigerant Leak Repair)
ruclips.net/video/7sICT9-0nAQ/видео.html
Nice Video, I enjoyed it. But seriously?? A light with a cord and plug.
Thank you! Haha I always use the M12 cordless drop light but it went missing so I went with the cord! Lol. Hate using a cord😂 Stay tuned for new videos every week 🔧⚡
Great video
Thank you! Appreciate the feedback🙏Stay tuned for new videos every week 🔧⚡
Good vid ... Thx for posting ...
Thank you Eddy! Appreciate the comment🙏
Stay tuned for new videos every week 🔧⚡
Thank you for the videos Jumperman Tech , i would some videos on BMS 💯
Nice and precise good work
Thank you! Appreciate the feedback🙏 Stay tuned for new videos every week 🔧⚡
I like your get it down right work. Thanks for sharing
Thank you! Stay tuned for new videos every week🔧
What refrigerant was that system using?
Good details in describing everything
Great job my friend lots to learn share ...❤
I am interested in learning more about this walk in freezers. I like the way you explained it. What of brad and kind of tools you use to check the high and low on the compressor?
Jumper man,are jumper man tech cause you are a master jump roper?
Why no 409a?
Right on man great job
Very informative
Nice man , i wanna put my foot in a field may i work with you couple times for free just to learn more ?
I got freezer room but it does not go less than 10 degrees.
You need to cover or remove the food products below.
Good advice. Thank you! Stay tuned for new videos every week🔧⚡️
Nice job
Thank you! Stay tuned for new videos every week🔧⚡️
What's the cost of job like that
Jump man where you located
Follow up on this?
Those compressors are not cheap to put a titen 2.60 $ instead of usa hd for $6.00 I would not take the chance.thanks for the vid,keep posting.
To the wall next fly please and thank you
Just a question have you been doing this long? or are you a rookie
If you would like to learn something about refrigeration, you can ask.
after hours heading to a wine cellar not working, first time working on one 😅
Just another day in paradise 🥂😂 Stay tuned for new videos every week🔧
W video!
What can you earn as a technician
0:01 light switch
You should use R422B is compatible with R 22 mineral oil. R134A is POE OIL
This was not a R22 system. It was a R12 system and the replacement is R134a👍Thanks for watching!
@@JumpermanTech only with an oil change kiddo. If you're not replacing the oil then you should use 209 and not 134
Prefer jobs that are routine
This industry it’s always a different thing
change all 3
The last thing a tech should do is open up the system, even to just hook up a probe
Yeah, unless that's what the problem is. Then it should be the first thing.
Where was leak.i bet it was on evap
134a
you should never discharge a start cap like that...use your meter or a resistor.
💪🇺🇸👍❄
Thank you! 🙏🙌🇺🇲🔧⚡
Real techs don’t use shitwaukee tools
Checking pressures is not the first thing you should do buddy
I recon that both caps got destroyed because of the compressor was short cycling constantly.
Should have top off with refrigerant . Full siteglass. 134 a tefrigerant. Discharged the compacitor with a screw driver on both terminals.