Killian Jornet's Hypoxic Generator Pre-Acclimatization to Climb Everest in Record Time

We discuss the use of hypoxic generators to pre-acclimatize for 8000 meter mountains by Everest Climbers (without supplemental Oxygen) Killian Jornet, Adrian Ballinger, and Emily Harrington. We discuss the academic evidence for pre-acclimatization and why the published studies are lagging industry practice.
Emily Harrington on her Rapid Ascent of Cho Oyu
www.ukclimbing...
International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance, 2019, 14, 1438-1441
doi.Org/10.112...
On Top to the Top-Acclimatization Strategy for the “Fastest Known Time” to Mount Everest
Gregoire P. Millet and Kilian Jornet
High Altitude Medicine & Biology VOL. 11, NO. 1
Training in Normobaric Hypoxia and Its Effects on Acute Mountain Sickness after Rapid Ascent to 4559 m Kai Schommer, Neele Wiesegart, Elmar Menold, Ute Haas, Katrin Lahr, Hermann Buhl, Peter Bärtsch, and Christoph Dehnert
doi.org/10.108...
We talk about why pre-acclimatization with normabaric hypoxic generators makes sense for high-altitude mountaineering above 5,000 meters or 16,000 fee for people who have jobs. Most of the folks that can attempt high-altitude summits live far below 8,000 feet or 2,500 meters and have to acclimatize for weeks to attempt Aconcagua 6961 meters or 22,837 feet or months to attempt Mount Everest.
Use our Amazon affiliate link #ad to monitor your heart rate and blood oxygen percent using a generator.
Zacurate Pro Series 500DL Fingertip Pulse Oximeter Blood Oxygen Saturation Monitor with Silicone Cover, Batteries and Lanyard (Royal Black)
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Your blood ox % should fall while in the tent or on the mask and your pulse rate should rise. Pulse ox meters are key to measuring the effectiveness of simulated altitude training.
Acclimatization stimulates the production of red blood cells and reduces the risks of developing symptoms of acute mountain sickness (AMS) on your ascent of a high to extreme altitude peak. AMS symptoms are headache, nausea, shortness of breath, difficulty breathing, and dizziness. More sever AMS are high altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE) and high altitude cerebral edema (HACE) which can be life threatening if the climber cannot descend quickly.
We translate the settings into simulated altitude and suggest an acclimatization plan. This IS NOT medical or exercise advice. These are just the opinions of someone who has NO medical or exercise training. You should consult a physician and do your own readings of the academic research. Two studies we liked were
Burtscher, M., Millet, G.P. & Burtscher, J. Hypoxia Conditioning for High-Altitude Pre-acclimatization. J. of SCI. IN SPORT AND EXERCISE 4, 331-345 (2022). doi.org/10.100...
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This is great ! Again , best information I can find on RUclips about this