2 days ago I was in the Emergency ward at the local hospital for a cut I got when playing around in my shop. While waiting(4 1/2 hrs) on the television was a St. Judes commercial! I live in Canada!!
I don't know how many people are actually paying attention, but the level of KNOWLEDGE and EXPERIENCE to achieve these kind of results is almost unequaled. I will cry actual tears when these titans of automotive excellence are no longer passing along their knowledge. Thank you.
Excellent! Been reading your books for 40 years, and I always have really appreciated your thoughtful approach to using factory components, massaged as needed ! This series has lots of useful concepts that apply equally well to a very different engine I am working on as an oddball, yet promising project. Thanks for the Decades of inspiration!!
I am going through this episode for the second time.I now understand that just asking a machinist to “lighten my flywheels, rods, pulleys, pistons or wrist pins is insufficient, until I clean up and polish the surfaces of each component and address the obvious casting flashes and machining ‘plateaux’ before I give the components to them for the accurate lightening process. Wow, I never knew what I didn’t know until this broadcast! Thanks so much.
my grandfather always said. if u are going to spend the money, u might as well go all out and do it right. i couldn't see myself not balancing everything after spending thousands. love hearing your wisdom on engines.
I am absolutely loving these series now that I found them or they found me. Moral of the story of this man is absolutely look for horsepower where it is not where you want it to be.
It would be awesome if when you gotten crank is mill, use a catch can, with vacuum, to catch the shavings. With a scale under it, you could get close to the needed weight. Then check the balance and sneak up on the precise weight, maybe remove some weight from the rod journal ends aswell, to allow more to be removed! You could have that crank whittled down looking as if it were a billet crank! 😆. Have an awesome day! ✌️
Watch the series he shows what he removed from Both ends of the rod and he took a lot off it from what I seen. That Mopar rod was beefy when he started.
Looking forward to seeing the next part of this exercise. I suspect that it will be similar to your previous crankshaft lightning video, but with a few tweaks. Going to be very interested in what the tweaks are.
Would this apply to big block Chrysler as well anything that I could apply to big block Chrysler would be greatly appreciated as well sir again thank you so much.
Mission impossible: take a stock engine , stock parts and make x Hp. It sure seems it took a turn somewhere along the way. I suspect it was when the goal was determined to be unattainable
Im pretty sure they planned on buying pistons in the beginning knowing that the block needed to be bored. It was discussed in an earlier video. It was also noted that he wanted it to be durable for the lucky winner
The interesting thing here is while you are removing more weight from the crank by pulling it at the lobes, you're not reducing inertia as much. The formula for moment of inertia is some form of I=amr^2 with a being a constant. I don't really feel like doing the integral to figure out the constant for a crank, but I'm sure it's out there. The question then is, are we trying to reduce mass, or inertia? Because for every bit of mass you remove at the largest radius, you remove much more inertia than removing it from a shorter radius. I'm genuinely curious to hear your response. Thanks for making such great content!
If I was going to custom machine these pistons, I'd go with : point .8 MM, ( .0314 inch ) top and second, and 2 MM oil, ( .0787 inch ) rings . Even for street / strip . Well I've only made mods like this with semi finished piston blanks . Btw, you might need some type of intern to finish those other 7 rods .
I watched a Driving4Answers video recently about offsetting cylinders in relation to the crankshaft and I'd be interested to know what Mr. Vizard thought of it since he offset an engine's bores long ago.
Perhaps offset grind the crank and gain a little stroke, trim piston crown to remove more weight and coat the piston crown... I'm considering this, any comments?
In this case they are going for HP relative to displacement so they wouldn't be gaining much going that route. I would consider it myself rather than decking the block on a budget build.
From what I have seen on Hypereutectic pistons you need more ring butt end clearance on the top ring or you will blow the top ring land apart. Either use a cast piston or a forged piston. I have just seen to many problems with Hypereutectic pistons in the real world use. They seem to heat up the rings after the engine is good and warm shut down and when you restart you get a backfire and when you take the head off you will find the top rind land broken or cracked and sticking up higher than normal. If you get lucky it will not wreck the cylinder bore.
Can you go into more depth on this subject? I am wanting to do this on a 5.9 magnum, but I don't want to cause problems for the machinist who balances it. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge!
You really pegged me there! I'm just building an engine for a pulling truck! I want to keep my RPMs low, and my pulling torque high. I want something to move a load of hay up and down mountains, not making good ET's.
if you drill holes in the bottom of the piston on Mission Impossible then Andy mite win next year against Uncle Tony when it burns a hole through it = Mission Accomplished ?
David, can you please do an update video on BMC B series 1800 engine builds for us? Would love to know how you would apply today’s knowledge to get the most out of these engines.. specially for rally/race engines… thanks :)
Hello Mr. Vizard . Beautiful work on the Crank and Rods . In my minds eye imagine the RPM winding quickly . Sucking airflow faster and faster easily reaching 318 h.p. @5000 rpm. When ?😊
I ran .100 wall thickens pins in my 340 to save a bunch of weight. Bushing the lifter bores is a worthwhile mod on a sb Mopar because the factory geometry is so far off
want to help head cooling for some tolerance for maximum squeeze 12:1 plug the rear deck passage and feed the coolant to the rear of the heads , via twin hoses through the rear of the intake flange . many of the aftermarket intake manifolds offer access to the coolant charge , with plugged ports in the front crossover Cooler Heads Will Pervale
What are the considerations if you were working on an externally balance crank as in a 360? Can they be converted to internally balanced ? What would need to be done? Thanks for another awesome video!
Ok. I have a lot of questions. Haha. I have rebuilt many engines but have not modified much on any of them. So i understand the concept of grinding the crank bobweights more toward the center. But i am struggling with the weight formula. So the formula for the bobweights you quoted is for a typical " V " style engine with a "standard" not a 180 style crank. correct?? So on the formula it is, twice the big end including the bearings dipped in the weight of oil you plan to use. because they are two rods per journal. So why then only calculate for1 piston, ring, pin, locks, dipped in oil and small end per journal?? Does the " V " of the reciprocating mass cancel out half the weight?? So on an inline engine would you use the entire weight instead of splitting it between the two as on the v engine?? and on an opposed engine you would not add any of the reciprocating mass, as they counter act each other?? Also Am i correct in saying that it does not matter how many counterweights are cast or machined into the crank, We are instead finding the " BOBWIEGHT" amount for the engine dividing the rotating and reciprocating weight by the number ""rod journals"" on the crank?? so in a v8 then 4. On a 4cyl. 4. On an inline6, 6. I would think that the more counterweights you have they more accurately you could balance on each side of each rod journal?? How then do you offset between say an Odd fire Buick v6 and an even fire with offset rod journals?? I would assume that the Odd fire engine is easier to balance. And how does all of this grinding affect an externally balanced engine. If the crank is just lightened with stock parts. you would need to add even more external weight further extending the harmonics of the crank I would assume. and if the rod piston combo is lightened enough to reduce or eliminate the weight of the external wrights. then would you just keep the external weights but grind off the crank whatever that stock External weight added up to??? Or would it be better to by a heavier crank with more counterweights so it becomes an internally balanced engine at that point so you could grind off and shape the crank as normal?? and if using a stock crank, you could add heavy metal in the same areas that you described to grind from in order to get even MORE heavy metal into the crank, and therefore leave yourself more room to grind away later?? Also, when using different stock cranks into other blocks how do you know the mass of one crank to the next. and when buying an aftermarket crank, are they almost always heavier that you need so that you can choose to modify them? This is all so intriguing to me; I have watched all of your videos on what makes a super crank and have read ""Rick Voegelin's"" engine blueprinting book" many times. It is just Such an involved subject. and I am just not grasping all of it yet. Are there any great books or other videos you can recommend that would take me further down this rabbit hole? or would you be willing to do another series of videos to tackle these questions?? Thank you so much for all of your great work and sharing your knowledge. Tom Brown in ND.
Running is stock class we could blueprint the rods but not lighten them much, slightly lighter piston and pin, rod bushed to max legal length I am concerned that if you stroke the crank .030 and deck the block you may have the piston to far out of the block even with a fel pro (or thicker Marine gaskets) What heads? if open chamber you can get some quench and flycut the chambers if necessary (equalize each end of the head on the 399 piston you can use grove spacers Is the 399 the step dome? build tight quench I'd still start with a 360 crank
Out of interest David, is there any negative effect on secondary imbalances (eg. like in an inline 4) that arise by taking material from the counterweight sides rather than the extreme end? I can't quite visualise it for myself. Is this another time there are compromises or are we better off regardless because it's the whole assembly still being balanced? Thankyou for all the info, very grateful and a big G'day from Australia 👍
@@cravenmoorehead5636 UTG piston pin offset debate. Yamaha and Kawi do it and i know F-1 does it ( my fav series) also David mentioned it. Like moving parts in manifolds also like Sterling Marlin. How about extreme cooling? Its just what im into right now🤷♂️. Building a stroker this may be alot If the idea comes from mother nature and i can apply it all good to me too. So can you use an offset piston pin or do you have to move the bore or both. Tony joked about “leaning” on the bore when getting it bored out im thinking this was the reason
I thought tony was worried over nothing but this project is supposed to be using factory parts to see what you can get everything else is kosher the pistons should be at least off the shelf
Not sure how to use this input in our little FIAT 899/903 OHV engine. But lighting the pistons and the crackshaft is a good idea. Another good idea might be, but I'm guessing now, to make dimples like a golf ball into the side of the pistons to keep oil to lubricate better (?). And thus causing less friction. Or holes. Big holes, tiny holes, more or less? And probeably the position of these dimples or holes plays an important role. For the grooves as shown in this video you'll need a machine. Most of the viewers don't have that option.
You can use a cam with more duration and get more horsepower without any loss of low speed torque or you will have an engine with excellent low speed torque and throttle response. I imagine your MPG would improve too.
If you check this topic has been absolutely covered already his partner did the video on his channel he was able to get a 600 hp race cam from 13 to 18 miles per gallon 35% increase go over there and you can do the same thing yourself.
2 days ago I was in the Emergency ward at the local hospital for a cut I got when playing around in my shop. While waiting(4 1/2 hrs) on the television was a St. Judes commercial!
I live in Canada!!
I don't know how many people are actually paying attention, but the level of KNOWLEDGE and EXPERIENCE to achieve these kind of results is almost unequaled. I will cry actual tears when these titans of automotive excellence are no longer passing along their knowledge. Thank you.
No one more generous, that I have found, in these circles would share this much, just so we can have fun with it ourselves.
No sir. Thank you for sharing your knowledge it is a privilege to learn what took you 60+ years to learn look forward to every video you put out 💪☝️👍👌
Excellent! Been reading your books for 40 years, and I always have really appreciated your thoughtful approach to using factory components, massaged as needed ! This series has lots of useful concepts that apply equally well to a very different engine I am working on as an oddball, yet promising project. Thanks for the Decades of inspiration!!
I am going through this episode for the second time.I now understand that just asking a machinist to “lighten my flywheels, rods, pulleys, pistons or wrist pins is insufficient, until I clean up and polish the surfaces of each component and address the obvious casting flashes and machining ‘plateaux’ before I give the components to them for the accurate lightening process. Wow, I never knew what I didn’t know until this broadcast! Thanks so much.
I can't wait for the first Polyquad video...
Same here!
Me too!!! I'm really curious how to work the bowl and how they should be biased
Same here. It's mentioned in one of his books, but not much detail.
I’d be overjoyed with a mention of the poly!
MOPAR for the win!
Of course, valve cutouts are a wee bit more demanding on a poly (A block).
Hastings Piston Rings! Hastings MI. Still pumping out rings in the original 100+ year old building!
Thanks for all your videos Mr Vizard!! Been watching for a few year while rebuilding my own engine!
Good morning Mr. V! I hope that you have a great day today!
my grandfather always said. if u are going to spend the money, u might as well go all out and do it right. i couldn't see myself not balancing everything after spending thousands. love hearing your wisdom on engines.
Wow I never seen anyone as acknowledged about motors as you I have a new idol now I donate to st. Jude's all the time God bless and thank you sir
Overflowing with technical knowledge. Awesome series! Thanks!
I am absolutely loving these series now that I found them or they found me.
Moral of the story of this man is absolutely look for horsepower where it is not where you want it to be.
Lucky me I'm building a 318
Thanks David!!!
great viedeo.
also the formula to take off weight while don't over/underbalance the crank.
Thanks DV.
This is unparalleled quality information a real golf clap.
Thank you David I really appreciate your time and knowledge.
I wish I had the money to use your techniques. The only thing I'll be able to do is maybe some head work
I been learning and did this all to a vw diesel
Awesome
Good title since you are removing mass, this lightening is indeed massive.
It would be awesome if when you gotten crank is mill, use a catch can, with vacuum, to catch the shavings. With a scale under it, you could get close to the needed weight. Then check the balance and sneak up on the precise weight, maybe remove some weight from the rod journal ends aswell, to allow more to be removed! You could have that crank whittled down looking as if it were a billet crank! 😆. Have an awesome day! ✌️
Watch the series he shows what he removed from Both ends of the rod and he took a lot off it from what I seen. That Mopar rod was beefy when he started.
Brilliant David.
Very nice! Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for sharing, all the best to you and your loved ones
I really am enjoying this build and the details you are covering. Most apply to ANY engine not just this 318.
been learning from you for 25 years!!
Thanks David.
Looking forward to seeing the next part of this exercise. I suspect that it will be similar to your previous crankshaft lightning video, but with a few tweaks. Going to be very interested in what the tweaks are.
I’ve been following along on this project and really appreciate all your hard work on putting together the videos!
Can't wait to see what kind of power the build produces.
Great vidja DV 🤙🏼
Well Done Wizard 😊
Would this apply to big block Chrysler as well anything that I could apply to big block Chrysler would be greatly appreciated as well sir again thank you so much.
awesome, awesome, awesome!
Please do a video on gapless top rings (I think you may have quickly mentioned using some in this video)
Mission impossible: take a stock engine , stock parts and make x Hp.
It sure seems it took a turn somewhere along the way. I suspect it was when the goal was determined to be unattainable
You haven't watched all the videos
Im pretty sure they planned on buying pistons in the beginning knowing that the block needed to be bored. It was discussed in an earlier video. It was also noted that he wanted it to be durable for the lucky winner
@@briantayes2418 According to Tony "...replacement pistons will have stock compression height."
@@briantayes2418 I watched enough to see the perimeters change to suit the goal.
Pickle sniffers
Love the videos, thank you
turns the skirt into a hydrostatic machine way, and cuts friction, I'll be sending something to DV in the future to look at.
The interesting thing here is while you are removing more weight from the crank by pulling it at the lobes, you're not reducing inertia as much. The formula for moment of inertia is some form of I=amr^2 with a being a constant. I don't really feel like doing the integral to figure out the constant for a crank, but I'm sure it's out there. The question then is, are we trying to reduce mass, or inertia? Because for every bit of mass you remove at the largest radius, you remove much more inertia than removing it from a shorter radius.
I'm genuinely curious to hear your response. Thanks for making such great content!
I am sure that is the angle he’s going for maximizing inertia reduction
I've got to say I was wondering something similar, although you showing the formulas is a help 😅
I'm really interested to get an opinion on this too 👍
Great vidja 🤙🏼
If I was going to custom machine these pistons, I'd go with : point .8 MM, ( .0314 inch ) top and second, and 2 MM oil, ( .0787 inch ) rings . Even for street / strip . Well I've only made mods like this with semi finished piston blanks . Btw, you might need some type of intern to finish those other 7 rods .
Great Knowledge
Great Cause DV
I watched a Driving4Answers video recently about offsetting cylinders in relation to the crankshaft and I'd be interested to know what Mr. Vizard thought of it since he offset an engine's bores long ago.
Perhaps offset grind the crank and gain a little stroke, trim piston crown to remove more weight and coat the piston crown...
I'm considering this, any comments?
In this case they are going for HP relative to displacement so they wouldn't be gaining much going that route.
I would consider it myself rather than decking the block on a budget build.
From what I have seen on Hypereutectic pistons you need more ring butt end clearance on the top ring or you will blow the top ring land apart. Either use a cast piston or a forged piston. I have just seen to many problems with Hypereutectic pistons in the real world use. They seem to heat up the rings after the engine is good and warm shut down and when you restart you get a backfire and when you take the head off you will find the top rind land broken or cracked and sticking up higher than normal. If you get lucky it will not wreck the cylinder bore.
Looking forward to see that crank
Can you go into more depth on this subject? I am wanting to do this on a 5.9 magnum, but I don't want to cause problems for the machinist who balances it. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge!
Will you make a video showing the mods on the block for extra power? Amazing videos. Thanks David.
You really pegged me there!
I'm just building an engine for a pulling truck!
I want to keep my RPMs low, and my pulling torque high.
I want something to move a load of hay up and down mountains, not making good ET's.
if you drill holes in the bottom of the piston on Mission Impossible then Andy mite win next year against Uncle Tony when it burns a hole through it = Mission Accomplished ?
David, can you please do an update video on BMC B series 1800 engine builds for us? Would love to know how you would apply today’s knowledge to get the most out of these engines.. specially for rally/race engines… thanks :)
Hello Mr. Vizard . Beautiful work on the Crank and Rods . In my minds eye imagine the RPM winding quickly . Sucking airflow faster and faster easily reaching 318 h.p. @5000 rpm. When ?😊
I ran .100 wall thickens pins in my 340 to save a bunch of weight. Bushing the lifter bores is a worthwhile mod on a sb Mopar because the factory geometry is so far off
want to help head cooling for some tolerance for maximum squeeze 12:1
plug the rear deck passage and feed the coolant to the rear of the heads , via twin hoses through the rear of the intake flange .
many of the aftermarket intake manifolds offer access to the coolant charge , with plugged ports in the front crossover
Cooler Heads Will Pervale
What are the considerations if you were working on an externally balance crank as in a 360? Can they be converted to internally balanced ? What would need to be done?
Thanks for another awesome video!
Not much there, and I wouldn't do it unless I was going over 7 thou RPM .
Ok. I have a lot of questions. Haha. I have rebuilt many engines but have not modified much on any of them. So i understand the concept of grinding the crank bobweights more toward the center. But i am struggling with the weight formula. So the formula for the bobweights you quoted is for a typical " V " style engine with a "standard" not a 180 style crank. correct?? So on the formula it is, twice the big end including the bearings dipped in the weight of oil you plan to use. because they are two rods per journal. So why then only calculate for1 piston, ring, pin, locks, dipped in oil and small end per journal?? Does the " V " of the reciprocating mass cancel out half the weight?? So on an inline engine would you use the entire weight instead of splitting it between the two as on the v engine?? and on an opposed engine you would not add any of the reciprocating mass, as they counter act each other??
Also Am i correct in saying that it does not matter how many counterweights are cast or machined into the crank, We are instead finding the " BOBWIEGHT" amount for the engine dividing the rotating and reciprocating weight by the number ""rod journals"" on the crank?? so in a v8 then 4. On a 4cyl. 4. On an inline6, 6. I would think that the more counterweights you have they more accurately you could balance on each side of each rod journal??
How then do you offset between say an Odd fire Buick v6 and an even fire with offset rod journals?? I would assume that the Odd fire engine is easier to balance.
And how does all of this grinding affect an externally balanced engine. If the crank is just lightened with stock parts. you would need to add even more external weight further extending the harmonics of the crank I would assume. and if the rod piston combo is lightened enough to reduce or eliminate the weight of the external wrights. then would you just keep the external weights but grind off the crank whatever that stock External weight added up to??? Or would it be better to by a heavier crank with more counterweights so it becomes an internally balanced engine at that point so you could grind off and shape the crank as normal?? and if using a stock crank, you could add heavy metal in the same areas that you described to grind from in order to get even MORE heavy metal into the crank, and therefore leave yourself more room to grind away later??
Also, when using different stock cranks into other blocks how do you know the mass of one crank to the next. and when buying an aftermarket crank, are they almost always heavier that you need so that you can choose to modify them?
This is all so intriguing to me; I have watched all of your videos on what makes a super crank and have read ""Rick Voegelin's"" engine blueprinting book" many times. It is just Such an involved subject. and I am just not grasping all of it yet. Are there any great books or other videos you can recommend that would take me further down this rabbit hole? or would you be willing to do another series of videos to tackle these questions?? Thank you so much for all of your great work and sharing your knowledge.
Tom Brown in ND.
Has it been said how much weight was saved off of the rods yet?
Running is stock class we could blueprint the rods but not lighten them much, slightly lighter piston and pin, rod bushed to max legal length I am concerned that if you stroke the crank .030 and deck the block you may have the piston to far out of the block even with a fel pro (or thicker Marine gaskets) What heads? if open chamber you can get some quench and flycut the chambers if necessary (equalize each end of the head
on the 399 piston you can use grove spacers Is the 399 the step dome? build tight quench I'd still start with a 360 crank
Out of interest David, is there any negative effect on secondary imbalances (eg. like in an inline 4) that arise by taking material from the counterweight sides rather than the extreme end? I can't quite visualise it for myself. Is this another time there are compromises or are we better off regardless because it's the whole assembly still being balanced?
Thankyou for all the info, very grateful and a big G'day from Australia 👍
Does that 'X' groove on piston skirt affect small end oiling ?
How do you rebalance after reducing the weight?
David can you comment on bore offset ( in relation to crank centerline) Looking for ANY advantages Thank You
Driving 4 answers huh? Lol
He's said something obliquely concerning this, but it was for a race team and didn't comment any more.
@Craven Moorehead that's who I was going to mention
@@cravenmoorehead5636 UTG piston pin offset debate. Yamaha and Kawi do it and i know F-1 does it ( my fav series) also David mentioned it. Like moving parts in manifolds also like Sterling Marlin. How about extreme cooling? Its just what im into right now🤷♂️. Building a stroker this may be alot If the idea comes from mother nature and i can apply it all good to me too. So can you use an offset piston pin or do you have to move the bore or both. Tony joked about “leaning” on the bore when getting it bored out im thinking this was the reason
Ever tested leaving the second comp ring out?
I thought tony was worried over nothing but this project is supposed to be using factory parts to see what you can get everything else is kosher the pistons should be at least off the shelf
Piston are off-the-shelf!
@@DavidVizard so are aluminum rods and superchargers.
Pickle sniffers
Not sure how to use this input in our little FIAT 899/903 OHV engine. But lighting the pistons and the crackshaft is a good idea.
Another good idea might be, but I'm guessing now, to make dimples like a golf ball into the side of the pistons to keep oil to lubricate better (?). And thus causing less friction.
Or holes. Big holes, tiny holes, more or less?
And probeably the position of these dimples or holes plays an important role.
For the grooves as shown in this video you'll need a machine. Most of the viewers don't have that option.
I've got a set of forged wiseco flat tops with valve reliefs how do you think it'd work on a twin turbo 318
What happens if you have too much low lift flow?
Can you have too much low lift flow?
You can use a cam with more duration and get more horsepower without any loss of low speed torque or you will have an engine with excellent low speed torque and throttle response. I imagine your MPG would improve too.
There is no such thing as too much low lift flow
4 valves have great low lift flow, back cut valves have great low lift flow. It doesn't seem like they're combined often.
Yo Super D-give me a ring
Knife edging is the secret
Dave!!! 5 pounds!! I can’t wait to hear this thing run . The free revving of this motor is going to be insane. What kind of rpm are you looking for?
For this low initial buck build I doubt we will turn more than 6750. However when we have a decent cam in if we will be looking at as much as 7500.
this engine has gone way off script. mission impossible has become mission creep.
I agree. Although there is still a lot good info to be gained by watching this series I really wish they would have stuck to the original plan.
Yes it has but isn't it unique how David uses his expertise on how to improve those stock parts on a budget for more hp .fascinating
That’s true, but the 318 2bbl is never going to make close to 318 hp with out these mods
Guys,
The only stuff I have bought so far that is essential is the pistons and they were in the original plan!
According to Tony "...replacement pistons will have stock compression height."
George - George - George - Tony is the one talking about it. I am the one doing it!
Pickle sniffers
Não tem legenda...
Tank,s
You need to call out youtube. I've had to unsub and resub for many channels recently to get my feed.
👍👍💪💪
can you make it faster to long winded
No - I am only getting the speed you see here due to skilled editing. Since my brain surgery I have a job getting to the end of a sentence.
I thought lightning the reciprocating and rotating Mass only helped with acceleration and not with actual horsepower
It needs more power to keep a greater weight in motion, so less weight equals more power. A viscous fan can get you 20 free hp.
There's a reduction in windage loss and an increase in acceleration power. The same as if you lightened your car.
👍
Personally I blame squirrels
Personally, I blame Uncle Squirrel
That's nuts
That squirrel had to die. Dixie chicks lol
If you hate squirrels so much, come to Holley NY. We have a squirrel slam once a year to see who can get the most squirrels.
@@bennyboyy7 i bet that is NUTS!!!! Lol
I wish someone would cover best gas saving secrets .. vapour carburetor// water injection..,,!!!
One of the biggest variables in fuel economy is the driver.
If you check this topic has been absolutely covered already his partner did the video on his channel he was able to get a 600 hp race cam from 13 to 18 miles per gallon 35% increase go over there and you can do the same thing yourself.
Hope it dosent run anything like your truck did lol That was pathetic
Personally i blame Sanford