...man I would really like to see and hear this engine after it was built...I'm sure it's a screamer! Thank you Mr. Vizard...you are a wealth of knowledge and we all appreciate your sharing it with us!
Yeah I've worn both and they both have issues. The glasses were UVEX ( about as good as you can get) and the goggles were full nose and eyes. The glasses were the best, but if I pulled a face while grinding particles would bounce off my face and into the eye. The goggles has air holes and so would let the dust particles in that way. It all sucks. You just have to hope you don't get a piece of wire lodged in your eye as this has happened to me twice! Now that really sucks and needs to be pulled out by an ophthalmologist using tweezers! Either that and you get some other poor guy to do it for you! But where's the fun in that?
Thanks for the video David, for me the balance and lightening of a crankshaft is a very interesting topic, unfortunately there is very little information about it. Thank you for sharing your knowledge freely. Regards
Really like seeing the little 318 receiving so much love. I've owned from 2.2 - 440's and built quite a few of them. Never with the amount of race expertise you are demonstrating. Kind of on a dare around 2005 I helped do probably the first or one of them, J-head to polyblock builds. It went into a 1964 Dart. The A block 318 and LA 318 are more interchangeable than people would think. The big difference is in waterports. The machine shop we were using threaded the water ports in the J-heads and blocked them off with pipe plugs. Then redrilled the water ports to line up with the A block. We took the cylinders 90 over. Finding a readily made piston proved impossible so went with JE custom made pistons in 10.5.1. On pump gas not in full tune it made 292hp and 272 ft lbs of torque at the rear wheels no power adders. Not the greatest but for an experiment in that time period not too bad. It had a really flat torque curve. In a little Dart setup for drag racing it held its own pretty good against far larger engines. The polyheads wouldn't work in the little Dart but they would in B and C bodies and pickups. It's a shame no one makes an interchangeable aluminum polyhead for the A and LA engines. Wouldn't be very hard to do! The head flow would have to be pretty good. It would turn the little 318 into a monster. Most people don't realize they factory produced a 318 dual quad in I believe in 58 that was 290 hp the same as the 340 six pack.
I was a machinist in race engine shops starting in 1984 (age 31, wish I'd have started earlier) but I truly wish this information and your talents would've been available back then. I was out of the engine business by 2002 & now I'm 69 years old & retired but this fascinates me! Wish I could put even a small part of your knowledge to use on one of my earlier project, Thank You David! (I did work for 4 different current or former professional drag racers, two of whom I'd go out of my ways to even talk to & two I'd still consider friends)
I've always wanted to learn these skills and one day build an engine I can be proud of. Thankyou David for these tutorials. Regards Lachy from Sydney, Australia
On a 1980 Chev 350 Sportsman stockcar we had to run a "stock" crank. We weren't allowed to drill it to lighten it, so I had it cut to small journal 327 specs which not only lightened the crank, it cut the friction due to smaller diameter journals. Grinding the journals smaller allowed a larger radius on the journals, strengthening the crank. Also, the smaller big end of the 327 rods meant even more weight savings. With minimal weight removal from the balance pads and some beam polishing, hung on hypereutectic flat-top pistons, we were at the minimum piston assembly weight allowed. It was assembled with bearing spacers on the mains and we ran it for 11 years at 5,500 to 5,900 RPM with new bearings each year and a full overhaul twice to check guides, cam and cylinders. The oil and filter were changed every weekend. Finally, a crushed air box in front of the radiator overheated it, so we retired it. Cheating is easy, finding ways to stay inside the rules, but right on the line, and win, takes thought. The cheaters hated us because they couldn't understand how we could beat their cheating. I looked at one car and pointed out at least 5 things that he had wrong, that when fixed, would do more than his cheats. Next week, he was legal and faster.
DV, love your videos and the wealth of knowledge you are sharing. I am a firefighter in Australia and would love to know how to purchase your books preferably from you to help increase my level of understanding. Thank you in advance. Clayton.
I was 12 hours away from buying a cam last week. And then I saw a video on your 128 cam selection. Thank you David. The rabbit hole you have led me down is going to provide me with the dream engine I didn't think I could have. If anyone in Melbourne Australia has recommendations on an amazing machine shop please comment.
Been binging your videos on building race engines. Wish i had the tooling and machinery to do some of things your doing like lightning rods. Bit late to incorporate this new knowledge into my current engine (albeit not a big block engine its a 6g72 3.0l v6) . Definintly interesting stuff and right up my alley since I want to make a killer high revving all-motor build. Definintly see areas of improvement to my current build like all the work you've done blending the crankshaft counterweights and lightning up the rods by quite a lot. 2-3 lbs off the crank will definintly make some improvements in response and horsepower and when your dealing with small displacement engines EVERY single horsepower matters.
@@DavidVizard Greetings from Jamaica David. With the information learned from your videos series my single cylinder, two valve, push rod, 230cc, air-cooled motorcycle is now much quicker and a bit faster. I've ported and polished the head and carburetor. The difference is ABSOLUTELY AMAZING! It still needs some fine tuning so I wont ride it again until I get a wide band AFR gauge. Im a farmer and it's all manual labor. I now see an opportunity to make some money on the side. I've done several porting jobs on these motorcycles so far and people and the demand is increasing. The information you're sharing is changing my life!✊🏽🇯🇲🏁
@@juniorhenderson7512 that's really cool 🙂, great job brother! David really is a treasure trove of knowledge and what a blessing for us all! Thank you David...and thanks for sharing this too our brother from Jamaica 😃👏👏👏may your abilities continue to grow and shine on! 🙏
Thank you for the video. Very interesting. But is it possible to add a hole in a bigend journal of a cast or forged crank that was not manufactured with a hole. If so, can you make a video on how it is done. Thank you.
David u are awesome with motors one of the best I was wondering if u could do a vidio on how to degree a cam if u don't have a card and no writing on cam to know what it is how do I know where to set it thanks you
@@UnityMotorSportsGarage I can't help but believe the amount you're estimating will be multiplied x8 (7/10hp/per cylinder/throw)!! 😁 This engine will indeed be incredible, a Giant SLAYER 💪! I'm so happy and excited to be following this series along; proud to have been able to contribute by sending Charlie an extra 2barrel dual plane intake I had collecting dust too! Certainly the last part I ever believed would be needed for a competition 😅; I've certainly gained a lot of respect and love for the 318 beyond the enduring workhorse I've always come to know. So much to learn and be entertained by these days... thank you Guys for all you're doing Andy! Casper is looking really good too brother
@@MidnightOilsRestoration That would be 56-80 HP....too much. I've heard in his other videos 7 HP. He's also smoothing the bottoms of the cylinder openings to let the air follow the pistons better and I can't wait to see the custom crank scraper and any other pan baffles - - David is pure genius.
@@TIMEtoRIDE900 well when you consider that Dave Dudek gained 15hp just from a crank scraper on his hemi that he runs in the F.A.S.T. class, well let's just say that I'm optimistic! Maximized Rods+Maximized Crankshaft+lightweight Pistons...it's going to be remarkable! Guaranteed!!
Fiatnutz has an old video called "Connecting Rod Weight Reduction" where he tapers the small end into a trapezoidal shape. Is that a viable option with pressed in pins or does it weaken the rod too much? His video is less than 2 minutes long if I wasn't clear in my description of what he did and you want to take a look.
Mr V, Ive heard of shot peening all my life, and I get the general PRINCIPLE of it. But Ive never seen it DONE. Please explain the particulars of the process. HOW are the shot pellets propelled into the rods??
I stated that I used a cartridge roll to remove the parting line flash, I started with a narrow belt sander Did the chevy "pink" rods use different metal? Rod's look nice Do not pay extra for 340 rods
Small ends are 4 grams per 8 rod, so ... 32 grams at hundreds or thousand G's makes tons per revv. Crank is about 15 grams per counterweight and some at throws, I'd say more 100 grams at safe side. It makes a difference at 4k, A big difference at 5k, an enormous difference at 6k ... gigantic difference at 9k...
Thinking about the direction you knife edged the backside of the counterweight, wouldn't that draw oil toward the rod side? The flow will separate at the sharp edge, thus reducing pressure substantially, whereas the curved side might keep the flow attached longer, so you end up with a pressure differential towards the rod side, which would draw the oil in that direction. Your thoughts?
@@theshed8802 British En (26) 4130 equivalents were used by UK engine builders mid 60's Cooper S con rods come to mind higher grades were also used for other parts eg en40b (approx 4340) it also crops up in other places
The gains would be offset by time spent doing it.. industrial engines are built reliable and therefore see no real practical gains from spending weeks polishing and lightening internals for bugger all improvements at 1900rpm.. but it has been done.. the time and dollar cost needs to be asked..
I found the two fellows that said forty-three on the other video and mentioned for them to comment at the top in all caps. The one guy replied to his comment on all caps.
David can you please make a video for dummy's like "me" step by step on the 128 cam formula for picking the right cam for my sbc 400. This engine has a stock dished bottom end with very low mileage. I want to use a set of stock vortec heads on it and i will modify the heads to work with the right cam that matches this engine. I could be wrong about the compression ratio but i was thinking it would be 10.1 with the vortec heads. This engine gets ran a few times a year at two different events and it gets punished a lot. I was thinking a flat tappet solid lift cam but i don't have. any advise is greatly appreciated.
i guessed 43 grams once i think it was for big end i thought.. i cant remember the little end video ill have to go back through the videos . but its ok ether way
It's all common sense.. any rotating assembly from factory is just ugly with a purpose.. fine tuning is understanding fluid and air flow.. bricks don't fly efficiently..😂😂😂
With all that time involved it would be much cheaper, and better, to just buy some Eagle or Scat rods. If you wanna up penny it get some Callies or Oliver rods. Trying to rethink something that doesn't need rethinking is redundant and illogical.
You guys with too much money don't seem to get the premise here. That's why skill sets have been so limited, and guys with know how have etched out a way to get your money lol! Okay..new scenario, were living in the apocalypse and there's no Eagle, Scat, Callies, Oliver, etc... now what, well you've got some time...good luck! Make sure you contribute to these kids!!!
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
...man I would really like to see and hear this engine after it was built...I'm sure it's a screamer! Thank you Mr. Vizard...you are a wealth of knowledge and we all appreciate your sharing it with us!
The first time I tried porting, I wore safety glasses and still got metal in my eye. As you said, "goggles", not glasses. Very important distinction!
Yeah I've worn both and they both have issues. The glasses were UVEX ( about as good as you can get) and the goggles were full nose and eyes. The glasses were the best, but if I pulled a face while grinding particles would bounce off my face and into the eye. The goggles has air holes and so would let the dust particles in that way. It all sucks. You just have to hope you don't get a piece of wire lodged in your eye as this has happened to me twice! Now that really sucks and needs to be pulled out by an ophthalmologist using tweezers! Either that and you get some other poor guy to do it for you! But where's the fun in that?
Thanks for the video David, for me the balance and lightening of a crankshaft is a very interesting topic, unfortunately there is very little information about it.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge freely.
Regards
Absolutely the best build series on RUclips!! Thank you David
Really like seeing the little 318 receiving so much love. I've owned from 2.2 - 440's and built quite a few of them. Never with the amount of race expertise you are demonstrating. Kind of on a dare around 2005 I helped do probably the first or one of them, J-head to polyblock builds. It went into a 1964 Dart. The A block 318 and LA 318 are more interchangeable than people would think. The big difference is in waterports. The machine shop we were using threaded the water ports in the J-heads and blocked them off with pipe plugs. Then redrilled the water ports to line up with the A block. We took the cylinders 90 over. Finding a readily made piston proved impossible so went with JE custom made pistons in 10.5.1. On pump gas not in full tune it made 292hp and 272 ft lbs of torque at the rear wheels no power adders. Not the greatest but for an experiment in that time period not too bad. It had a really flat torque curve. In a little Dart setup for drag racing it held its own pretty good against far larger engines.
The polyheads wouldn't work in the little Dart but they would in B and C bodies and pickups. It's a shame no one makes an interchangeable aluminum polyhead for the A and LA engines. Wouldn't be very hard to do! The head flow would have to be pretty good. It would turn the little 318 into a monster. Most people don't realize they factory produced a 318 dual quad in I believe in 58 that was 290 hp the same as the 340 six pack.
I was a machinist in race engine shops starting in 1984 (age 31, wish I'd have started earlier) but I truly wish this information and your talents would've been available back then. I was out of the engine business by 2002 & now I'm 69 years old & retired but this fascinates me! Wish I could put even a small part of your knowledge to use on one of my earlier project, Thank You David! (I did work for 4 different current or former professional drag racers, two of whom I'd go out of my ways to even talk to & two I'd still consider friends)
I've always wanted to learn these skills and one day build an engine I can be proud of. Thankyou David for these tutorials. Regards Lachy from Sydney, Australia
Sydney has got to be one of my favorite city's. Awesome place to live!
Those rods are looking like $1,500 per set of custom rods. Beautiful!
still cast metallurgy and not homogeneous.
This engine is going to be a work of art!
The chances of me building an engine like this are slim to none. But I really enjoy learning how. Thank you.
You definitely have amazing free hand metal removal. Everything looks well blended and finished on heads / rods / crank etc. skills !
His finish not as good as mine.
My crank almost looks like a Winberg crank. Check it out.
Thank u David for all ur contributions to all of us gearheads that share ur passion, God Bless
Thats some really fine hand work, superb blending!
On a 1980 Chev 350 Sportsman stockcar we had to run a "stock" crank. We weren't allowed to drill it to lighten it, so I had it cut to small journal 327 specs which not only lightened the crank, it cut the friction due to smaller diameter journals. Grinding the journals smaller allowed a larger radius on the journals, strengthening the crank. Also, the smaller big end of the 327 rods meant even more weight savings. With minimal weight removal from the balance pads and some beam polishing, hung on hypereutectic flat-top pistons, we were at the minimum piston assembly weight allowed. It was assembled with bearing spacers on the mains and we ran it for 11 years at 5,500 to 5,900 RPM with new bearings each year and a full overhaul twice to check guides, cam and cylinders. The oil and filter were changed every weekend. Finally, a crushed air box in front of the radiator overheated it, so we retired it.
Cheating is easy, finding ways to stay inside the rules, but right on the line, and win, takes thought. The cheaters hated us because they couldn't understand how we could beat their cheating. I looked at one car and pointed out at least 5 things that he had wrong, that when fixed, would do more than his cheats. Next week, he was legal and faster.
The moment I watched one of your videos, I instantly recognized you as one of my heroes.
Beautiful, you're a true artist on top of incredible knowledge.
Great stuff to grasp. Thank you Mr. David Vizard, you're an engine builder Wizard 😊
Forming and working metal in ways it would be very challenging to copy with modeling clay. Well done!
DV, love your videos and the wealth of knowledge you are sharing. I am a firefighter in Australia and would love to know how to purchase your books preferably from you to help increase my level of understanding.
Thank you in advance.
Clayton.
Thank you for the great content.
You Sir are one fine craftsman!
Always A pleasure to watch and learn ...thank you for all you do sir .
still the best technical youtube channel . more please
Like your rood modifications , did something similar to my Studebaker 259 rods. Thank you DV.
I guessed 40 grams reduction per rod three months ago, pretty dog gone close.
Thanks for all the videos. You are the best tech guy ever! Well done my friend.
David, thank you so much for the invaluable info!!!
I was 12 hours away from buying a cam last week. And then I saw a video on your 128 cam selection.
Thank you David. The rabbit hole you have led me down is going to provide me with the dream engine I didn't think I could have.
If anyone in Melbourne Australia has recommendations on an amazing machine shop please comment.
What a great informative video !
you are welcome on the books, thank you
I love seeing things done correctly
Nicely done David 😎
You have no idé how I am waiting for an opportunity to buy your FORD book. :) We are talking years here.
Thanks for your racewinning infos !
hi david thank you for another great one
Been binging your videos on building race engines. Wish i had the tooling and machinery to do some of things your doing like lightning rods. Bit late to incorporate this new knowledge into my current engine (albeit not a big block engine its a 6g72 3.0l v6) . Definintly interesting stuff and right up my alley since I want to make a killer high revving all-motor build. Definintly see areas of improvement to my current build like all the work you've done blending the crankshaft counterweights and lightning up the rods by quite a lot. 2-3 lbs off the crank will definintly make some improvements in response and horsepower and when your dealing with small displacement engines EVERY single horsepower matters.
Thanks!
Also how were the winners of the contest notified
This is guna be one well balanced engine when it's finished, thanks for sharing, all the best to you and your loved ones
Thank you David!
We need DV to take on the LS/LT platform.
Personally, I think that the poly or the y-block would be much more interesting. Everyone does LS.
You mean like the 4.8 in his truck?
Great episode, but WE WANT POLYQUAD! WE WANT POLYQUAD! WE WANT POLYQUAD!
It's coming, it's coming, it's coming etc.
I'm looking forward to that! I have the book, but a more in-depth explanation would be great!
It's going to be a great surprise! I promise that
@@DavidVizard Greetings from Jamaica David. With the information learned from your videos series my single cylinder, two valve, push rod, 230cc, air-cooled motorcycle is now much quicker and a bit faster. I've ported and polished the head and carburetor. The difference is ABSOLUTELY AMAZING! It still needs some fine tuning so I wont ride it again until I get a wide band AFR gauge. Im a farmer and it's all manual labor. I now see an opportunity to make some money on the side. I've done several porting jobs on these motorcycles so far and people and the demand is increasing. The information you're sharing is changing my life!✊🏽🇯🇲🏁
@@juniorhenderson7512 that's really cool 🙂, great job brother! David really is a treasure trove of knowledge and what a blessing for us all! Thank you David...and thanks for sharing this too our brother from Jamaica 😃👏👏👏may your abilities continue to grow and shine on! 🙏
👍👍👍👍👍 thank you sir
Anytime you reduce weight from rotational mass equals horsepower gains.🤘🏻
I can't even find the episode for the guessing of the weight! Link? Some people have comment replies turned off. I definitely do.
Thank you for the video. Very interesting. But is it possible to add a hole in a bigend journal of a cast or forged crank that was not manufactured with a hole. If so, can you make a video on how it is done. Thank you.
Good question! 👏👏👏
You wouldn't waste our time with a cast crank.
I would really love to see the rest of crank project i have a factory gm 1 piece rear main forged crank im using in my lt4 that i want to do this to
Thank you sir, i been learning making, my engine builds better, thsnk you again
Thanks David
David u are awesome with motors one of the best I was wondering if u could do a vidio on how to degree a cam if u don't have a card and no writing on cam to know what it is how do I know where to set it thanks you
What reciprocating weight balance factor are you going to use in this engine?
What rpm value will you use to establish the above balance factor?
J
This is the super interesting info I'm hoping for the most!
Who was the winner, tried to find the video
Beautiful work
I was wondering why you radiused the trailing edge. It would be better to do a straight taper, and leave a sharp edge. Look at Kamm back cars.
1/11/24 Great Material!! Wondering how far I am behind?
Good 👍
Great tech content. How much power do you think you will save just from the windage?
Bryan we are thinking around 7-10hp since we aren't going to be spinning it very high the gains won't be as much if we were going to 8000 rpm
Andy
Still, that's nothing to sneeze at.
@@UnityMotorSportsGarage I can't help but believe the amount you're estimating will be multiplied x8 (7/10hp/per cylinder/throw)!! 😁 This engine will indeed be incredible, a Giant SLAYER 💪! I'm so happy and excited to be following this series along; proud to have been able to contribute by sending Charlie an extra 2barrel dual plane intake I had collecting dust too! Certainly the last part I ever believed would be needed for a competition 😅; I've certainly gained a lot of respect and love for the 318 beyond the enduring workhorse I've always come to know. So much to learn and be entertained by these days... thank you Guys for all you're doing Andy! Casper is looking really good too brother
@@MidnightOilsRestoration That would be 56-80 HP....too much. I've heard in his other videos 7 HP. He's also smoothing the bottoms of the cylinder openings to let the air follow the pistons better and I can't wait to see the custom crank scraper and any other pan baffles - -
David is pure genius.
@@TIMEtoRIDE900 well when you consider that Dave Dudek gained 15hp just from a crank scraper on his hemi that he runs in the F.A.S.T. class, well let's just say that I'm optimistic! Maximized Rods+Maximized Crankshaft+lightweight Pistons...it's going to be remarkable! Guaranteed!!
Fiatnutz has an old video called "Connecting Rod Weight Reduction" where he tapers the small end into a trapezoidal shape. Is that a viable option with pressed in pins or does it weaken the rod too much? His video is less than 2 minutes long if I wasn't clear in my description of what he did and you want to take a look.
Sadly John Edwards passed away some years ago. Though of course his videos are still on both of his channels.
@@g0fvt I am aware that he passed away but as you mention he lives on through his videos.
Do it with caution and only on floating pins.
@@DavidVizard 👍
Awesome!
Are there any David Vizard trained engine shops in the PNW? (pacific northwest) 🤔
Mr V, Ive heard of shot peening all my life, and I get the general PRINCIPLE of it. But Ive never seen it DONE. Please explain the particulars of the process. HOW are the shot pellets propelled into the rods??
Same here, I've never seen it done either.
Love your videos do u build motors I need a stock 350 Chevy rebuilt for my dirt track car
What are the details of this series and giveaway? He is selling tickets?
I stated that I used a cartridge roll to remove the parting line flash, I started with a narrow belt sander
Did the chevy "pink" rods use different metal? Rod's look nice Do not pay extra for 340 rods
I want to know the total comes off the rods and the crank!
Small ends are 4 grams per 8 rod, so ... 32 grams at hundreds or thousand G's makes tons per revv. Crank is about 15 grams per counterweight and some at throws, I'd say more 100 grams at safe side. It makes a difference at 4k, A big difference at 5k, an enormous difference at 6k ... gigantic difference at 9k...
Good example @cmte.brazinazzo2061
Yep l brought your books in the early 90s l learnt throw Cleveland rods away they didn't like going over 5000 rpm with high compression
I wish there was some attention to the vintage BMW M10 motor...beyond general principles.
Thinking about the direction you knife edged the backside of the counterweight, wouldn't that draw oil toward the rod side? The flow will separate at the sharp edge, thus reducing pressure substantially, whereas the curved side might keep the flow attached longer, so you end up with a pressure differential towards the rod side, which would draw the oil in that direction. Your thoughts?
Is the keyway in the snout still usable?
wonder if these principles can be implemented on 4cylinder motors.
Thanks
Is there an ideal hole diameter in the big end journal based on journal diameter ?
hey David, where do you get your parts shot peened? is it somewhere in NC?
Wow that looks like it's alien
Will there be photos of the finished crank?
Is this process to be completed on every counterweight?
David, what material are those con rods made from? Loving this video series. Regards Greg
Original forged steel
@Ryan Stinson there are many different grades of steel, that is why I am asking the question
@@theshed8802 Likely but not guaranteed 4130
@David Mizen personally I'd be very surprised if a standard factory rod for a low performance motor was made from 4130
@@theshed8802 British En (26) 4130 equivalents were used by UK engine builders mid 60's Cooper S con rods come to mind higher grades were also used for other parts eg en40b (approx 4340) it also crops up in other places
David, do you think this type of work would be beneficial for a caterpillar engine? Much slower rpms, generally 1900 max.
IMO, it would be beneficial. No much though.
The gains would be offset by time spent doing it.. industrial engines are built reliable and therefore see no real practical gains from spending weeks polishing and lightening internals for bugger all improvements at 1900rpm.. but it has been done.. the time and dollar cost needs to be asked..
Once all this work is done to the crank and it is balanced, how is crank balanced to preserve ll the work that has been done?
Who got it right?
Where do I get the Torque Master Cam Program?
How will you balance it all?
With great skill!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
@@DavidVizard Jolly good show.
I found the two fellows that said forty-three on the other video and mentioned for them to comment at the top in all caps. The one guy replied to his comment on all caps.
Ben - just open the videos I mention in this one.
Wasn't me lol i was dreaming and never made a comment
It's new to me to shot peen a cast crank. Does it actually do anything?
Helps remove stress points on the surface of the part..
👍💪
Is Roughness Average "RA" Just incorrectly used term then?
David can you please make a video for dummy's like "me" step by step on the 128 cam formula for picking the right cam for my sbc 400. This engine has a stock dished bottom end with very low mileage. I want to use a set of stock vortec heads on it and i will modify the heads to work with the right cam that matches this engine. I could be wrong about the compression ratio but i was thinking it would be 10.1 with the vortec heads. This engine gets ran a few times a year at two different events and it gets punished a lot. I was thinking a flat tappet solid lift cam but i don't have. any advise is greatly appreciated.
I don't have to run a solid flat tappet cam, i was trying to get the most performance that i could get from this combination
Thanks DV! v/r wh
Are you planning on writing a book about mission impossible.
Hell no! I am committed to RUclips video's.
Will you magnaflux them?
Hopefully all the parts were thoroughly inspected before doing hours of hand-grinding, per part.
Alreay done.
I’m pretty sure I said 45 grams how do I find out if I won?
@Mr. Vizard: your books are hard and just impossible to get in the Netherlands. Not good. Bad. Really bad.
Uncle Byran lol
No thank you for showing us
Uncle Brian?
Old Brian Cabral deleted his channel after I made a video about him being a fake 😂
i guessed 43 grams once i think it was for big end i thought.. i cant remember the little end video ill have to go back through the videos . but its ok ether way
im going to get your holley tuning book soon personally caught that holley tuning bug
I’m going on a limb, the HP is 375
looks like alot of wotk for very little gain
Will you shot peen them?
EDIT ok yes
Yes!
It's all common sense.. any rotating assembly from factory is just ugly with a purpose.. fine tuning is understanding fluid and air flow.. bricks don't fly efficiently..😂😂😂
With all that time involved it would be much cheaper, and better, to just buy some Eagle or Scat rods.
If you wanna up penny it get some Callies or Oliver rods.
Trying to rethink something that doesn't need rethinking is redundant and illogical.
You guys with too much money don't seem to get the premise here. That's why skill sets have been so limited, and guys with know how have etched out a way to get your money lol! Okay..new scenario, were living in the apocalypse and there's no Eagle, Scat, Callies, Oliver, etc... now what, well you've got some time...good luck! Make sure you contribute to these kids!!!
Now I'm thinking my Initial rough out would be all 8 ganged on a rod. Nice to
Know