Aren't they supposed to leak? ;-) The plastic covers seem to leak the worst. Most people cause the leaking by over tightening them. What I would do is pull the valve cover, clean the old gasket off, put a bead of rtv on the cover and put on a new gasket. Let this set up on a flat area with a little bit of weight - just enough to help it set up and seal. Next, make sure your head area is clean where the gasket will be seated. Smear a fine layer of grease around the base of your new gasket and put it back into place. This allows for a good seal and it won't stick to your motor. Then bolt it back down - but not too tightly - just snug. After they are all snug give each one about a quarter turn. Fire it up, drive it, get it good and warm and look for any leaks. Hope this helps.
The important part is ow did you get the gauges to come out ? And what gauges did you replace with ? Looks like you used crown ? And then did they work ?
The fuel and temp gauges are held in by the wire connectors on the rear of the gauge. Remove the brass nuts and the gauge will separate - the plastic retainer on the rear and the gauge inside the case. The replacement gauges I used were Stewart Warner - Mopar upgrade kit #4740791 #835878 Fuel #835879 Temp
Thanks for the video. What are the advantages of upgrading the Temp and Fuel gauges? UPDATE: I tried looking up the part numbers and found out these gauges are discontinued. >:(
The issue I'm experiencing is when I fill my tank the gauge only goes halfway. From what I read it may be a ground. So I cleaned up the sending unit ground and used a new bolt to fasten it to the frame. I tried to read the ohms but I wasn't able to get any readings. It's either my crappy Harbor Freight multimeter or I just don't know how to take an ohm reading. A posting on a Jeep forum said their new sending unit float arm position wasn't at the correct level. Once they bent the arm all was good. There was a new tank installed before I bought the Jeep and the new tank is 5 gallons more. So maybe...it is the float arm level!
Geonious from personal experience I can tell you that you will never be sure until you drop the tank and check things out. Doing this allows you to check gauge function and the sending units reliability. The “someone” who did the work before you may not have done it right or installed the wrong parts. I have found many problems due to poor grounds. Redundant grounds are almost a necessity on a CJ. If you haven’t found him yet, a great resource for help is John Strenk (I think that’s right). I know this stuff is frustrating. Stick with it and you’ll get it figured out.
Thanks TCF. I was trying to avoiding having to drop the tank but I think it's inevitable. The ground from the sending unit to the frame is good. I cleaned it up. I didn't fill up the tank because if I'm going to drop it down it's best to do it near empty. Is John Strenk a RUclips channel or a website?
Geonious good thinking. Here is a John Strenk link I found to get you familiar. He has written a great troubleshooting guide - just can’t find it at the moment - www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/using-john-strenks-basic-troubleshooting-cj-gauges-verification-please-2268633/
Searched and searched and cannot find the gauges you found from Mopar. Just the cheap Chinese knockoffs which are terrible. I want to rebuild my original cluster with quality gauges but not having any luck. The Chinese replacement cluster I installed a couple of years ago is junk.
![Digital Circus Episode 4 [TRAILER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/abZtsmMUbJo/mqdefault.jpg)
I’m glad somebody finally put a video on that shows the right way to do it
Thank you. Watching people bend them apart was painful to watch.
Good work showing the disassemble of the speedometer.
Thank you.
Can you adjust the odometer while the face is off? It would be cool to restart the counter after a restoration.
No
Awesome video!! Really needed that information!! Thank you!
Thanks. Glad it helped. I ran into a LOT of bad tips and info.
Great video!!! Please make more CJ videos!!
Greg Drinkwater thanks. Most of my CJ repairs/mods were not videoed. What type of CJ videos are you looking for? Might be something I need to do.
Thanks for the reply good Sir!!!! Had you ever had a leaky valve cover on a 4.2 inline 6? I cant get mine to stop leaking? Thanks in advance!!
Aren't they supposed to leak? ;-) The plastic covers seem to leak the worst. Most people cause the leaking by over tightening them. What I would do is pull the valve cover, clean the old gasket off, put a bead of rtv on the cover and put on a new gasket. Let this set up on a flat area with a little bit of weight - just enough to help it set up and seal. Next, make sure your head area is clean where the gasket will be seated. Smear a fine layer of grease around the base of your new gasket and put it back into place. This allows for a good seal and it won't stick to your motor. Then bolt it back down - but not too tightly - just snug. After they are all snug give each one about a quarter turn. Fire it up, drive it, get it good and warm and look for any leaks. Hope this helps.
The important part is ow did you get the gauges to come out ?
And what gauges did you replace with ? Looks like you used crown ?
And then did they work ?
The fuel and temp gauges are held in by the wire connectors on the rear
of the gauge. Remove the brass nuts and the gauge will separate - the plastic retainer on the rear and the gauge inside the case.
The replacement gauges I used were Stewart Warner -
Mopar upgrade kit #4740791
#835878 Fuel
#835879 Temp
Thank you kind sir
Thanks for the video. What are the advantages of upgrading the Temp and Fuel gauges? UPDATE: I tried looking up the part numbers and found out these gauges are discontinued. >:(
Geonious that stinks. I’ll be in the same boat as you are if mine go out again.
The issue I'm experiencing is when I fill my tank the gauge only goes halfway. From what I read it may be a ground. So I cleaned up the sending unit ground and used a new bolt to fasten it to the frame. I tried to read the ohms but I wasn't able to get any readings. It's either my crappy Harbor Freight multimeter or I just don't know how to take an ohm reading. A posting on a Jeep forum said their new sending unit float arm position wasn't at the correct level. Once they bent the arm all was good. There was a new tank installed before I bought the Jeep and the new tank is 5 gallons more. So maybe...it is the float arm level!
Geonious from personal experience I can tell you that you will never be sure until you drop the tank and check things out. Doing this allows you to check gauge function and the sending units reliability. The “someone” who did the work before you may not have done it right or installed the wrong parts. I have found many problems due to poor grounds. Redundant grounds are almost a necessity on a CJ. If you haven’t found him yet, a great resource for help is John Strenk (I think that’s right). I know this stuff is frustrating. Stick with it and you’ll get it figured out.
Thanks TCF. I was trying to avoiding having to drop the tank but I think it's inevitable. The ground from the sending unit to the frame is good. I cleaned it up. I didn't fill up the tank because if I'm going to drop it down it's best to do it near empty. Is John Strenk a RUclips channel or a website?
Geonious good thinking. Here is a John Strenk link I found to get you familiar. He has written a great troubleshooting guide - just can’t find it at the moment - www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/using-john-strenks-basic-troubleshooting-cj-gauges-verification-please-2268633/
Thank you sir! Great video.
Larry Cox Jr. u appreciate that. Hope you found it useful.
Searched and searched and cannot find the gauges you found from Mopar. Just the cheap Chinese knockoffs which are terrible. I want to rebuild my original cluster with quality gauges but not having any luck. The Chinese replacement cluster I installed a couple of years ago is junk.
Brian K Kinney that’s a shame. Mine were bought years ago.
Thanks, need to change out my fuel gauge
Bill Graham thanks. Good luck!
Just watch a video Where the gay bent the face of the speedometer