Awesome video in all respects!!! Thanks so much for sharing!!! This shark bite slip coupling gave me the wiggle room I needed when I removed and replaced a 37 year old bathtub faucet. A great little piece of engineering. Due to a broken shower arm, I had to fully remove the slip coupling and reinstall it - and it didn't leak - very impressive!!! It was easily installed, removed, and reinstalled. Can't say enough good about it!!!
Almost impossible with the orange clip that comes with them... be prepared to use a lot of elbow grease, or have a second set of hands to hold the pipes
Take a measurement of the overall damage and see if the overall length of a slip coupling as long enough to make up what was cut out, mind you have to subtract insertion depth of each end of the slip coupling which is generally around 1 in on each side if using on 1/2-in pipe
If you are referring to the deburring tool, you need not buy it iid you dont want to. You deburr all types of pipes with all types of connections... copper, PVC... everything gets deburred if you want perfection. The deburring tool is also used on this video to mark how far to push the pipe into the sharkbite... but you dont need that tool ... just make sure that you mark the pipe before you shove it in there How far to shove ? Most connections are for 1/2" pipe.... so in that case, shove it in ⅞". ----- If you are talking about having to buy the 9 dollar tongs, you could instead buy the 1 doller removal clip... not a big investment. In a pinch, you could use channel locks to remove or slide a sharkbite... but its more cumbersome Just letting you know Sharkbites are the way to go for fast work... no soldering, much less tools required, less skill required, less time, they are permanent, and to code for in wall/ below ground use. Sharkbite brand has produced nearly 1 BILLION fittings, and there are other brands as well, including clones on ebay. These are here to stay
You make it look so easy but it it not. I put one on a vertical copper pipe and it was really hard to get it to slide back up to connect to the other part of the pipe. I kept trying and eventually as I lifted up on the orange tool as hard as I could it moved back up. So, I decided to fix the other vertical pipe leak. Same thing. It slipped on, but now it will not push back up to meet the other part of the cut pipe. It is higher up, so I can't pull up like I did with the other one. I have to push up and it is not moving. Is there a trick to get it to slide more easily? It should not be this hard. There seems to be a longer plastic piece, then another closer to the shark bite. Is the one closer the release button? If so, how do you get the tool there to depress it? I cleaned the pipes, deburrred them, did everything you instructed. I bought these because you made it look so easy, so I decided I could do it myself. And I can. It is just the last step that is not working, closing the pipe altogether. One more step and I am done. Just can't get the depression button to enact, so it moves back up to the other pipe. What is the secret?
@James Calitri I finally bought the metal tongs. But it was still hard to move the slip coupler with those. It is not as hard to move as with that stupid orange clip, but it's still hard. I had to make it move little by little along the pipe. Shouldn't be that hard. But I will tell you this, those slip couplers are on now, and they aren't moving!
@@CooleoJankinsI just made a video about this very thing- I was out of options cuz it was deep in the wall, but I managed to mangle a dinner fork as a last resort.
@sdriza How hard as it to get off though? My problem was that even with the metal prong tool they make, it was still a pain to move the dang sharkbite along the pipe.
@@CooleoJankins it didn't move for me until I got something that fit perfectly TIGHT over the pipe and could compress the inner (~flush to pipe sleeve). I was really hard to get it.
Literally the saw blade width. You do not need to cut any extra. You “could” cut probably about 1/4” to 1/2” out but I never do. The pipes look like they are almost touching before I slip this on.
Easy. If you have a pipe that you need to cut and have no room to get a fitting in there. For instance a pipe goes from one side of the room to another. If you need to cut it in half to put a T in there you find as you assemble you cannot get the last portion together because the pipe must be as long as the space you have to put it in. This allows you to slip the shark bite over the pipe, put it in place then slip it back over the cut.
Here are the CORRECT instructions how to do this DIY procedure. Example. Let's say you have a copper or Pex pipe. Close the MAIN water supply valve. 1. Now cut this pipe at a given location on this pipe (i.e. where you want to place the shark bite) and let the water drain in some bucket. 2. The next Very important thing to do is, NOT to "mark your pipe with a pen" about the depth of pipe that need or should insert inside the pipe (after you post the pipe in shark bit end), ...BUT.... TO actually find out, how much pipe you should cut "IN BOTH DIRECTIONS" from the cut you already made. So, for this, look step 3. 3. Now you, look at your shark bite and place the shall bite's center point, at the first cut you made on the pipe. Now mark, "both edges/ends of shark bite" sitting/aligning on the pipe. Let's call it, left mark and right mark on the pipe. Between these 2 marks you just did, there will be the first CUT you made on the pipe. 4. Now, you use the shark bite depth tool (orange color which has all the sizes 0.5" to 1.5") and insert left end of the pipe to the left side of the shark bite and see how deep it is. Mark this on the left pipe (after first cut) i.e. now it will be marked INSIDE between the LEFT MARK you did in step 3. Let's call it INNER-LEFT-DEPTH mark (i.e mark between the LEFT MARK from step 3 and the cut on the pipe). Do the same procedure, on the right side of the pipe, using right side of the pipe, by inserting it into the right opening of the Shark bite. After inserting that, you will now get INNER-RIGHT-DEPTH-MARK i.e. a mark between the cut of the pipe and the RIGHT MARK you got from step 3. 5. Now, USING a Scale/measurement tape, find what's the depth/measurement of "INNER- LEFT-DEPTH -to-> the cut" ... note down this number/value as LEFT VALUE. ... Let's assume this left value was 1 inch. Do the same procedure by measuring, "cut -to- INNER-RIGHT-DEPTH mark". Note this value as RIGHT value. Lets assume this right value was also 1 inch. 6. Now wipe the INNER left and INNER right marks using a wet cloth or something. 7. Go to LEFT mark (that you made in step 3) and measure "left value" from that left mark and mark it. This "new-inner-left-depth" mark is now measured from the LEFT MARK (i.e. not from the cut/center of the pipe). Do the same procedure, i.e. mark "new-inner-right-depth" mark measuring from the RIGHT mark (you did in step 3). 8. Now, use the cutter, and cut the pipe AT exactly on the "new-inner-left-depth" mark and cut the pipe AT exactly on the "new-inner-right-depth" mark. THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT THING, I THINK NO OTHER VIDEO EXPLAINED AND it really trumps people while putting a shark bite on any plumbing pipe. 9. Using that orange tool that Shark bite company sells for finding depth of shark bite ends (i.e. how much pipe you should insert), it also has a smoothner/cutter in it, i.e. if you insert the end of pipes in that tool and rotate clockwise as listed on the tool, then it will SMOOTHEN the edges of pipe, for the new-left/right-depth end points of the pipe. Basically, what you have to do is, smoothen the edge of the pipe end points which will go inside Shark bite openings and touching the RUBBER washer/seal. 10. Now, ensure if your shark bite has any DRAIN value (that you open and let water fall down especially during winter time for sprinkler water clearing etc) you place the shark bite acc. so the drain value is always down facing. Actually shark bite can rotate 180° on the pipe after fitting it ( so that should not be a problem ). ALSO, check there is no dirt or debri inside the shark bite, after doing all this nano engineering work today first time by you. Well by now you just put the left pipe on left shark bite opening and right side of the pipe, into the right side of the shark bite opening. While inserting, the pipe will go exactly upto the left and right mark, you did in step 3. IMPORTANT: the pipes should be straight if possible like a straight line after you insert both ends in shark bite. Avoid getting any angle more than 5° i.e. after installation, the pipe with shark bite should look like 1 straight pipe, not bending unnecessarily like a bow. Basically there should NOT be any hard tension between shark bite and pipe (that you inserted inside shark bite) giving it any reason to leak water due to a bad angle and high water pressure can leak water from such bad angle. NOW have a bucket ready next to you, open the main water valve slowly, turn on water and see, if the shark bite installation was successful. Is it leaking any water from the end of the shark bite or not. If not, you just saved both TIME AND $$$$ And learned something new today.
Хобби
Fast to the point. Good tutorial.
Awesome video in all respects!!! Thanks so much for sharing!!! This shark bite slip coupling gave me the wiggle room I needed when I removed and replaced a 37 year old bathtub faucet. A great little piece of engineering. Due to a broken shower arm, I had to fully remove the slip coupling and reinstall it - and it didn't leak - very impressive!!! It was easily installed, removed, and reinstalled. Can't say enough good about it!!!
Works for me. Helped me where there was a small gap to fill.
Almost impossible with the orange clip that comes with them... be prepared to use a lot of elbow grease, or have a second set of hands to hold the pipes
Take a measurement of the overall damage and see if the overall length of a slip coupling as long enough to make up what was cut out, mind you have to subtract insertion depth of each end of the slip coupling which is generally around 1 in on each side if using on 1/2-in pipe
So you are saying go back to the store and buy another tool,.
If you are referring to the deburring tool, you need not buy it iid you dont want to. You deburr all types of pipes with all types of connections... copper, PVC... everything gets deburred if you want perfection.
The deburring tool is also used on this video to mark how far to push the pipe into the sharkbite... but you dont need that tool ... just make sure that you mark the pipe before you shove it in there
How far to shove ?
Most connections are for 1/2" pipe.... so in that case, shove it in ⅞".
-----
If you are talking about having to buy the 9 dollar tongs, you could instead buy the 1 doller removal clip... not a big investment.
In a pinch, you could use channel locks to remove or slide a sharkbite... but its more cumbersome
Just letting you know
Sharkbites are the way to go for fast work... no soldering, much less tools required, less skill required, less time, they are permanent, and to code for in wall/ below ground use.
Sharkbite brand has produced nearly 1 BILLION fittings, and there are other brands as well, including clones on ebay.
These are here to stay
Great information, I just wish I knew how to slow down the video to read the caption.
press the gear in the bottom right and press on the playback speed option
You make it look so easy but it it not. I put one on a vertical copper pipe and it was really hard to get it to slide back up to connect to the other part of the pipe. I kept trying and eventually as I lifted up on the orange tool as hard as I could it moved back up.
So, I decided to fix the other vertical pipe leak. Same thing. It slipped on, but now it will not push back up to meet the other part of the cut pipe. It is higher up, so I can't pull up like I did with the other one. I have to push up and it is not moving.
Is there a trick to get it to slide more easily? It should not be this hard. There seems to be a longer plastic piece, then another closer to the shark bite. Is the one closer the release button? If so, how do you get the tool there to depress it?
I cleaned the pipes, deburrred them, did everything you instructed.
I bought these because you made it look so easy, so I decided I could do it myself. And I can. It is just the last step that is not working, closing the pipe altogether. One more step and I am done. Just can't get the depression button to enact, so it moves back up to the other pipe. What is the secret?
Having the same issue!
@James Calitri I finally bought the metal tongs. But it was still hard to move the slip coupler with those. It is not as hard to move as with that stupid orange clip, but it's still hard. I had to make it move little by little along the pipe. Shouldn't be that hard. But I will tell you this, those slip couplers are on now, and they aren't moving!
@@CooleoJankinsI just made a video about this very thing- I was out of options cuz it was deep in the wall, but I managed to mangle a dinner fork as a last resort.
@sdriza How hard as it to get off though? My problem was that even with the metal prong tool they make, it was still a pain to move the dang sharkbite along the pipe.
@@CooleoJankins it didn't move for me until I got something that fit perfectly TIGHT over the pipe and could compress the inner (~flush to pipe sleeve). I was really hard to get it.
how much do you cut away ???? If pipes cannot be moved - how much do you cut away of the old pipe???? So simple to answer but nobody does !!!
Right looking on website and online and no answer
Literally the saw blade width. You do not need to cut any extra. You “could” cut probably about 1/4” to 1/2” out but I never do. The pipes look like they are almost touching before I slip this on.
"Cut a 2" section away from the pipe" according to the instructions that are printed on the plastic bag containing the coupler.
@@peterjens316 thank you not sure how I missed that.
Lousey video! Can't tell where he slides the fitting to the mark
I feel like I'd lose sleep
You will (I know firsthand)
I still don't understand the purpose of the "slip fitting". How is this any better than a traditional shark bite?
Easy. If you have a pipe that you need to cut and have no room to get a fitting in there.
For instance a pipe goes from one side of the room to another. If you need to cut it in half to put a T in there you find as you assemble you cannot get the last portion together because the pipe must be as long as the space you have to put it in. This allows you to slip the shark bite over the pipe, put it in place then slip it back over the cut.
Here are the CORRECT instructions how to do this DIY procedure.
Example. Let's say you have a copper or Pex pipe.
Close the MAIN water supply valve.
1. Now cut this pipe at a given location on this pipe (i.e. where you want to place the shark bite) and let the water drain in some bucket.
2. The next Very important thing to do is, NOT to "mark your pipe with a pen" about the depth of pipe that need or should insert inside the pipe (after you post the pipe in shark bit end), ...BUT.... TO actually find out, how much pipe you should cut "IN BOTH DIRECTIONS" from the cut you already made. So, for this, look step 3.
3. Now you, look at your shark bite and place the shall bite's center point, at the first cut you made on the pipe. Now mark, "both edges/ends of shark bite" sitting/aligning on the pipe. Let's call it, left mark and right mark on the pipe. Between these 2 marks you just did, there will be the first CUT you made on the pipe.
4. Now, you use the shark bite depth tool (orange color which has all the sizes 0.5" to 1.5") and insert left end of the pipe to the left side of the shark bite and see how deep it is. Mark this on the left pipe (after first cut) i.e. now it will be marked INSIDE between the LEFT MARK you did in step 3. Let's call it INNER-LEFT-DEPTH mark (i.e mark between the LEFT MARK from step 3 and the cut on the pipe). Do the same procedure, on the right side of the pipe, using right side of the pipe, by inserting it into the right opening of the Shark bite. After inserting that, you will now get INNER-RIGHT-DEPTH-MARK i.e. a mark between the cut of the pipe and the RIGHT MARK you got from step 3.
5. Now, USING a Scale/measurement tape, find what's the depth/measurement of "INNER- LEFT-DEPTH -to-> the cut" ... note down this number/value as LEFT VALUE. ... Let's assume this left value was 1 inch.
Do the same procedure by measuring, "cut -to- INNER-RIGHT-DEPTH mark". Note this value as RIGHT value. Lets assume this right value was also 1 inch.
6. Now wipe the INNER left and INNER right marks using a wet cloth or something.
7. Go to LEFT mark (that you made in step 3) and measure "left value" from that left mark and mark it. This "new-inner-left-depth" mark is now measured from the LEFT MARK (i.e. not from the cut/center of the pipe).
Do the same procedure, i.e. mark "new-inner-right-depth" mark measuring from the RIGHT mark (you did in step 3).
8. Now, use the cutter, and cut the pipe AT exactly on the "new-inner-left-depth" mark and cut the pipe AT exactly on the "new-inner-right-depth" mark. THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT THING, I THINK NO OTHER VIDEO EXPLAINED AND it really trumps people while putting a shark bite on any plumbing pipe.
9. Using that orange tool that Shark bite company sells for finding depth of shark bite ends (i.e. how much pipe you should insert), it also has a smoothner/cutter in it, i.e. if you insert the end of pipes in that tool and rotate clockwise as listed on the tool, then it will SMOOTHEN the edges of pipe, for the new-left/right-depth end points of the pipe. Basically, what you have to do is, smoothen the edge of the pipe end points which will go inside Shark bite openings and touching the RUBBER washer/seal.
10. Now, ensure if your shark bite has any DRAIN value (that you open and let water fall down especially during winter time for sprinkler water clearing etc) you place the shark bite acc. so the drain value is always down facing. Actually shark bite can rotate 180° on the pipe after fitting it ( so that should not be a problem ). ALSO, check there is no dirt or debri inside the shark bite, after doing all this nano engineering work today first time by you.
Well by now you just put the left pipe on left shark bite opening and right side of the pipe, into the right side of the shark bite opening. While inserting, the pipe will go exactly upto the left and right mark, you did in step 3.
IMPORTANT: the pipes should be straight if possible like a straight line after you insert both ends in shark bite. Avoid getting any angle more than 5° i.e. after installation, the pipe with shark bite should look like 1 straight pipe, not bending unnecessarily like a bow. Basically there should NOT be any hard tension between shark bite and pipe (that you inserted inside shark bite) giving it any reason to leak water due to a bad angle and high water pressure can leak water from such bad angle.
NOW have a bucket ready next to you, open the main water valve slowly, turn on water and see, if the shark bite installation was successful. Is it leaking any water from the end of the shark bite or not.
If not, you just saved both TIME AND $$$$ And learned something new today.
Lies. It takes great leverage to move the slip joint onto the second piece. Not at all the way it appears in the video.
terrible video