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Very impressed! I am looking to make WHITE chinking mortar for our 95 y.o. Appalachian cabin, and your method seems just perfect. My problem: I just can't find how to make WHITE mortar! Plenty of gray masonry cement options online, type N / S. But no white ones! I am searching for the Lehigh White Masonry Cement that you used - and I don't see any for sale! Even on the company's website it doesn't seem to lead anywhere! Please help!
Spray foam is perfectly acceptable. Reputable products such as Great Stuff applied with a commercial gun are a closed cell formulation. They bond well and repel water. I have seen no problems in jobs where these foams were used. I prefer backer rod, because spray foam cures in a sorta 'lumpy' way, so it's easy to apply too much. But, especially for large gaps, spray foams work well.
We have a very similar project we are working on. We like the method you demonstrated. Can the chinking be painted a different colour? Also do you have a recipe for the mortar you mixed?
Question: for the wall connectimg to the exterior: did you end up putting morter on top of the spray foam? I only ask cause my bedroom walls are all connected to the ecterior of the house and i think the spray foam alone wpuld be ugly, im trying to MAke my bedroom pretty. I was wondering if there is a reason morter cant be used if so,and if it cant be used then what could be used to make it look nicer. Hopefully im not doomed to having an ugly bedroom. Thanks for any tips! Thanks!
Hi Zach, it happened to us as well, we bought a house and discovered that it is a traditional log house. I have a question, do we need to take the old cloth and moss out first? In some places, it comes out but in others, it is nice and firm. Thanks a lot for the reply.
You should take as much of the old stuff out as possible. If it’s really firm, then it’s a good enough base for the new, but anything loose should definitely come out.
@Tom Davies good question. The exterior of the house is wood siding in good condition so there shouldn’t be any bulk water that makes it to the logs, only a bit of atmospheric moisture. Any moisture that the logs soak up can be released the same way it came and the foam won’t hold it in.
I have experienced that of the spray foam breaks or cracks and let’s moisture in... it becomes like a sponge. The dynamic movement in the logs between seasons is a big factor. Also depends where you are, and how acclimated the wood is to the current climate which if it was civil war era logs lol it’s had plenty of time to settle into its climate. But I agree with Tom about the spray foam possibly having the potential for having rot. But if there is siding outside and you feel confident about the seal on the outside then I agree it will most likely be fine. I guess the point I am trying to make is sometimes spray foam is okay to insulate with and sometimes not. Just like each log home project... so many beautiful, irritating and lovely quirks to each individual home.
No, they really shouldn't. Polyurethane spray foam like Great Stuff (and probably the other competing products) are very hydrophobic - it cures as a closed cell, highly water resistant foam, and you really don't need to worry about it causing moisture problems for the logs that would be causing any type of rot issue. It's probably wise to just ensure the inside of the joint is fully dry when you go to spray the stuff in... But yeah, this is pretty much what these foams were made to do.
Shouldn't the chinking be even with the lower log so that rain runs off and doesnt pool and rot the wood at the base of where the chinking meets the wood?
Hi Jonathan. You’re absolutely right. This is an interior wall, so it’s not critical, but for an exterior application there would be a few things done differently.
Oh my gosh, please don't use ANY sprayfoam! Bought my 1939 Tamarack log cabin in Michigan's Upper Peninsula two years ago. This year's project was log replacement. Previous owner used sprayfoam and should have used large backer rod, pipe insulation or even pool noodles for large gaps. Those materials are closed cell foam, not open cell like "spray foam", which will wick any available moisture like a sponge and rot your logs in short order. We found lots of charming things used for chinking on the original structure, like 1930's Montgomery Wards catalog pages, old work gloves and even underwear stuffed between the logs and covered with asphalt roofing compound (tar). The logs where the tar fell apart were filled with sprayfoam, and that's where the rot started. Replaced about 12 full logs with dry northern michigan white cedar and buffed the logs with polycarbide wheels on my 4.5 inch angle grinder.
I wonder what kind of spray foam they used if it's been improved since then, this Great Stuff in the can is water proof its not open cell, you can look at and see there's no water getting in it, I use alot of it around my windows and doors, sure looks pretty darn waterproof.
Hi Shane, I'll see if I can get a hold of this for you. It might be a long shot as the homeowner hired a separate painting contractor for the staining.
Zach Fields, wow, that would be wonderful. I’ve got a screenshot of that wall that I’ve taken to Lowe’s twice and they’ve messed it up both times with a baby sh#t brown once and an opaque brownish mess the other. I tried asking you a couple weeks ago but you must have missed it with all the other comments. I sure would appreciate any help. I’m remodeling my home I bought two years ago here in the smoky mountains. I bought 3000 board feet of 1x10 white pine to do my walls, that’s the exact perfect color I’d love to have. My wife and I fell in love with it when we watched your video. Thanks sir.
@Shane K I was able to dig up some info. They just used a clear coat over the bare logs, I think two coats. This area had a lot of Chestnut back around the time that the house was built. I believe that’s what the wood is. It was also well weathered from being covered in plaster all these years. Maybe look for a stain in a dark chestnut color?
Could you please tell me what color stain you used on those old logs? It’s the perfect color but I’ve tried twice and can’t match it. Thanks for any help.
Good question. The short answer is because of cost. The long answer is that the two main advantages of Permachink are its sealing abilities and that it is very durable to the elements. In this case there is painted wood siding on the exterior of the house and we were only chinking the interior, so weathering the elements isn’t a huge concern. The issue of sealing is covered by the expanding foam that we used on the exterior walls. Permachink, on the other hand, is most often used in modern log house kits where the gaps are small and even. The material cost on this job would have been exorbitant for no significant gain in performance.
@@ZachFields It cost me $750 to Permachink my 18' x 20' log cabin, but the expected lifespan of the synthetic material is much better than anything else we have used, including LogJam.
1badtubeman ....Permachink is JUNK! It shrinks plain and simple. Log Jam is the way to go - been chinking since 1991 in northern Michigan for a living.
@@defleppard-lover6298 Um....no. Permachink products are excellent, and I'd say 90% of log homes around here (central B.C.) use them. Durable, easy to work with, readily available in many colors.
It's interesting how something that is considered "right" in one part of the world, is considered rightout offensive to craft tradition in other parts. This for example is known as a "cowboy movie" log house in Scandinavia 😊
Nothing about chunking an exterior wall, how to provide a drip edge w/ mortar, allow for rain to shed, etc. you referred to an exterior wall in the video but it was clearly inside! ??
Hey Jim, You're right, there is definitely stuff that we just couldn't cover in one video. Also, I could have been more clear; the outside of the house is covered in wood siding. The wall you are referring to is an exterior wall that we were working on the inside of so we didn't have to worry as much about free water management.
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Marshalltown margin trowel: amzn.to/2Syb2iY
Marshalltown disposable grout bags: amzn.to/37gBTE9
Disclaimer: Zach Fields may earn an affiliate commission when you buy through the links here.
Very impressed! I am looking to make WHITE chinking mortar for our 95 y.o. Appalachian cabin, and your method seems just perfect. My problem: I just can't find how to make WHITE mortar! Plenty of gray masonry cement options online, type N / S. But no white ones! I am searching for the Lehigh White Masonry Cement that you used - and I don't see any for sale! Even on the company's website it doesn't seem to lead anywhere! Please help!
Spray foam is perfectly acceptable. Reputable products such as Great Stuff applied with a commercial gun are a closed cell formulation. They bond well and repel water. I have seen no problems in jobs where these foams were used. I prefer backer rod, because spray foam cures in a sorta 'lumpy' way, so it's easy to apply too much. But, especially for large gaps, spray foams work well.
Finally some one doing this right!!!
We have a very similar project we are working on. We like the method you demonstrated. Can the chinking be painted a different colour? Also do you have a recipe for the mortar you mixed?
I like this Method. 👌👍👍
Thanks!
Question: for the wall connectimg to the exterior: did you end up putting morter on top of the spray foam? I only ask cause my bedroom walls are all connected to the ecterior of the house and i think the spray foam alone wpuld be ugly, im trying to MAke my bedroom pretty. I was wondering if there is a reason morter cant be used if so,and if it cant be used then what could be used to make it look nicer. Hopefully im not doomed to having an ugly bedroom. Thanks for any tips!
Thanks!
very good boss
Good job Martin Masonry....that particular gap looked to be 5 or 6 inches
What is the "recipe" for the chinking mortar? Thank you!
Does spray foam soak up water ? I know someone who spray foamed a hole in his truck and it was soaked and rotted .
Hi Zach, it happened to us as well, we bought a house and discovered that it is a traditional log house. I have a question, do we need to take the old cloth and moss out first? In some places, it comes out but in others, it is nice and firm. Thanks a lot for the reply.
You should take as much of the old stuff out as possible. If it’s really firm, then it’s a good enough base for the new, but anything loose should definitely come out.
@@ZachFields thanks a Lot Zach. What you suggest we place instead of the moss and wood dust that falls out?
Won't plastic spray foam cause the logs to rot? Shouldn't you be using a breathable material??
@Tom Davies good question. The exterior of the house is wood siding in good condition so there shouldn’t be any bulk water that makes it to the logs, only a bit of atmospheric moisture. Any moisture that the logs soak up can be released the same way it came and the foam won’t hold it in.
I have experienced that of the spray foam breaks or cracks and let’s moisture in... it becomes like a sponge. The dynamic movement in the logs between seasons is a big factor. Also depends where you are, and how acclimated the wood is to the current climate which if it was civil war era logs lol it’s had plenty of time to settle into its climate. But I agree with Tom about the spray foam possibly having the potential for having rot. But if there is siding outside and you feel confident about the seal on the outside then I agree it will most likely be fine. I guess the point I am trying to make is sometimes spray foam is okay to insulate with and sometimes not. Just like each log home project... so many beautiful, irritating and lovely quirks to each individual home.
No, they really shouldn't. Polyurethane spray foam like Great Stuff (and probably the other competing products) are very hydrophobic - it cures as a closed cell, highly water resistant foam, and you really don't need to worry about it causing moisture problems for the logs that would be causing any type of rot issue. It's probably wise to just ensure the inside of the joint is fully dry when you go to spray the stuff in... But yeah, this is pretty much what these foams were made to do.
Shouldn't the chinking be even with the lower log so that rain runs off and doesnt pool and rot the wood at the base of where the chinking meets the wood?
Jonathan G that wall was inside the house. There’s painted siding on the exterior. Cheers
barney Sorry, was that specified? Title just says chinking done right. If someone does this on an exterior it will rot the wood.
Hi Jonathan. You’re absolutely right. This is an interior wall, so it’s not critical, but for an exterior application there would be a few things done differently.
@@ZachFields What would be done differently? I am looking to do this. Do you have another video for exterior walls? Thank you!
Unfortunately I don’t have a video for the exterior.
Oh my gosh, please don't use ANY sprayfoam! Bought my 1939 Tamarack log cabin in Michigan's Upper Peninsula two years ago. This year's project was log replacement. Previous owner used sprayfoam and should have used large backer rod, pipe insulation or even pool noodles for large gaps. Those materials are closed cell foam, not open cell like "spray foam", which will wick any available moisture like a sponge and rot your logs in short order. We found lots of charming things used for chinking on the original structure, like 1930's Montgomery Wards catalog pages, old work gloves and even underwear stuffed between the logs and covered with asphalt roofing compound (tar). The logs where the tar fell apart were filled with sprayfoam, and that's where the rot started. Replaced about 12 full logs with dry northern michigan white cedar and buffed the logs with polycarbide wheels on my 4.5 inch angle grinder.
I wonder what kind of spray foam they used if it's been improved since then, this Great Stuff in the can is water proof its not open cell, you can look at and see there's no water getting in it, I use alot of it around my windows and doors, sure looks pretty darn waterproof.
Great Stuff is closed cell. It will not wick water.
@@NeedsMoreToys "great stuff" will hold 10x it's weight in water. Spray a ball and put in a bowl of water. Report back
MountainMan304 so you’re saying it’s open cell and don’t use it?
@@chordle1605 Total BS
Should have used stainless crown staples. The iron in those nails will stain theorrar and cause it to break down.
Can you tell me about the stone you put in there behind the mesh?
just literally some rocks they found, lol... They were just to fill in the gap.
Can you please tell what color you stained the wood with? It’s perfect and I can’t match it, thank you
Hi Shane, I'll see if I can get a hold of this for you. It might be a long shot as the homeowner hired a separate painting contractor for the staining.
Zach Fields, wow, that would be wonderful. I’ve got a screenshot of that wall that I’ve taken to Lowe’s twice and they’ve messed it up both times with a baby sh#t brown once and an opaque brownish mess the other. I tried asking you a couple weeks ago but you must have missed it with all the other comments. I sure would appreciate any help. I’m remodeling my home I bought two years ago here in the smoky mountains. I bought 3000 board feet of 1x10 white pine to do my walls, that’s the exact perfect color I’d love to have. My wife and I fell in love with it when we watched your video. Thanks sir.
@Shane K
I was able to dig up some info. They just used a clear coat over the bare logs, I think two coats. This area had a lot of Chestnut back around the time that the house was built. I believe that’s what the wood is. It was also well weathered from being covered in plaster all these years. Maybe look for a stain in a dark chestnut color?
Could you please tell me what color stain you used on those old logs? It’s the perfect color but I’ve tried twice and can’t match it. Thanks for any help.
My bet is no color, just clear. Wood darkens as it oxidizes over time. UVL changes wood color, too.
Lindo.
Why didn't you use Permachink?
Good question. The short answer is because of cost. The long answer is that the two main advantages of Permachink are its sealing abilities and that it is very durable to the elements. In this case there is painted wood siding on the exterior of the house and we were only chinking the interior, so weathering the elements isn’t a huge concern. The issue of sealing is covered by the expanding foam that we used on the exterior walls.
Permachink, on the other hand, is most often used in modern log house kits where the gaps are small and even. The material cost on this job would have been exorbitant for no significant gain in performance.
@@ZachFields It cost me $750 to Permachink my 18' x 20' log cabin, but the expected lifespan of the synthetic material is much better than anything else we have used, including LogJam.
1badtubeman ....Permachink is JUNK!
It shrinks plain and simple.
Log Jam is the way to go - been chinking since 1991 in northern Michigan for a living.
@@defleppard-lover6298 Um....no. Permachink products are excellent, and I'd say 90% of log homes around here (central B.C.) use them. Durable, easy to work with, readily available in many colors.
Лес на венцы знатный, Зак!
What is chinking? What is it made of? Is it waterproof? How long does does it last? What tools did the pioneers use? Your missing alot 😪😪😪
It's interesting how something that is considered "right" in one part of the world, is considered rightout offensive to craft tradition in other parts. This for example is known as a "cowboy movie" log house in Scandinavia 😊
Nothing about chunking an exterior wall, how to provide a drip edge w/ mortar, allow for rain to shed, etc. you referred to an exterior wall in the video but it was clearly inside! ??
Hey Jim,
You're right, there is definitely stuff that we just couldn't cover in one video. Also, I could have been more clear; the outside of the house is covered in wood siding. The wall you are referring to is an exterior wall that we were working on the inside of so we didn't have to worry as much about free water management.
Why did I think chniking a house was buying a bunch of black lacquer furniture and paper changing screens with flowers painted on them?
I don't think you'd like the answer.
@@irqzero IDK. I think I'd love to hear your answer.
@Dale Robertson Does your husband know you're speaking on the internet? I'm sure he'd prefer you,d be making his sandwich right now .
Those are not hand hewn logs. That's a shame.
Wow he's so cute...he can chink my logs any day! No pun intended...I'm building a cabin in Virginia.