when I used to work in a mechanic shop on flat rate, I never rushed to get a job done even if it took longer then book time, sometimes I could beat book time others were not possible. Like using greasy ass junkyard engines etc. Working on absolute junk sometimes. I just worked through it. I did not want to rush and make mistakes, even then a few slipped through, but it was usually because of parts were not correct, I put a used transmission in a car and the torque converter bolts would not line up, jdm transmission etc. I still do some mech work but its usually my own cars, and some at work, but I work on salary now lmao.
I'm surprised to see a OHV 4.0 worn out enough to smoke. It's the most reliable part of that truck (so long as you don't overheat it and crack the heads like I did). Mine has got 270k on it and when I swapped the heads it still had cross hatching in the cylinders!
Lol ok I wrecked my ranger a couple months ago and bent the frame and totaled it, and I bought my stepdads ranger with a good frame and no cosmetic damage, but the motors weak so I’m taking my original 4.0 out and I’m going to fully rebuild it and swap it into the new truck. So thanks for the help
Cheaper to fix em than it is to buy a new one. I don't need a fancy hot shot high dollar "look et me" truck. I simply need it to be dependable & clean.
Thanks....wife brought home her 2000 Explorer with white smoke gushing from tailpipe. Did a compression test this summer trying to narrow down fuel trim issues finding each bank had one cyl a little low. Let her drive it until the time it would fail.....gonna pull the engine instead of trying to bend over pulling heads only to find it all had to come out anyway. Your vid was a huge help with confidence. I know every wire & hose etc from changing the intake gaskets out twice hunting a vac leak. It has to be a bad valve and now a blown head gasket(s).
@@fastdadgarage-northsouthch4418 LOL...in Texas we just got a cold front and impossible to be outside. It's either to hot or to cold when I need to work on the truck. Maybe nick name it Goldilocks.
The engine harness unplugs with 3 or 4 plugs on the frame to separate it from the body harness. I know it was your first time but you made this job a lot harder than it is. Once you learn what needs to come off and what can stay taking this engine out is literally a 90 minute job
I may to remove my 4.0 out of my 01 explorer sport trac, I assume it's all the same although I haven't did much engine since I was younger it really doesn't appear that difficult, the engines I prefer to work with are the old 327 350s and 400 chevy engines back then they didn't have all these sensors ,but at any rate I believe I can do, great video stay safe and God bless
Just watched your video, thanks for taking the time to film and narrate the removal....... I have one questions. Is there an access plate so that you can unbolt the fly wheel from the torque convertor?
Not sure about that model but on the 2005/6 4.0 SOHC you unbolt the torque converter through the hole where the starter motor is. Remove one bolt, rotate converter, remove 2nd etc
Awesome video explaining how this is done. The one question I have is about the grounding wire that is connected to the wiper motor assembly. Where on the engine is it attached to?
Sorry didn’t see your question earlier. I’m not sure. Seems like it went into the harness that went down towards trans…. But I’m not sure where it terminated. Sorry I couldn’t be more helpful. Thanks for watching
Awesome video, I'm considering pulling the engine on my 03 3.0L ranger. We're you working off a maintenance manual or something, or just pulling stuff out as you saw it needed to go?
Okay, before I watch this, I must comment on your statement about "1st time R&R engine in this vehicle." if it's anything like my 96 explorer, you're going to HATE working on it. There is no room to do anything. Every simple task turns into a fraking nightmare. That being said, carry on then. Hey, no fair. Do you think you could make another video without using a lift?
when I used to work in a mechanic shop on flat rate, I never rushed to get a job done even if it took longer then book time, sometimes I could beat book time others were not possible. Like using greasy ass junkyard engines etc. Working on absolute junk sometimes. I just worked through it. I did not want to rush and make mistakes, even then a few slipped through, but it was usually because of parts were not correct, I put a used transmission in a car and the torque converter bolts would not line up, jdm transmission etc. I still do some mech work but its usually my own cars, and some at work, but I work on salary now lmao.
Thanks for watching! It can be fun….sometimes
I'm surprised to see a OHV 4.0 worn out enough to smoke. It's the most reliable part of that truck (so long as you don't overheat it and crack the heads like I did). Mine has got 270k on it and when I swapped the heads it still had cross hatching in the cylinders!
Interesting. I’m not sure what happened to this one.
Did you remove the engine to change the heads?
Thanks for the thorough step by step guide, that looks really tight, they sure didn’t leave a lot of room for your knuckles 👊🏼
Looks like pulling the hood gave you a lot more light! 💡
I should’ve done it sooner
Great help. At 75 years old I am going to try it. If I can't get it done I will burn trash in the back. LOL
Alright that’s great! Take your time and be careful. Thanks for watching
Take your time and if needed they make aftermarket replacement heads that solve the stock head cracking issues.
Lol ok I wrecked my ranger a couple months ago and bent the frame and totaled it, and I bought my stepdads ranger with a good frame and no cosmetic damage, but the motors weak so I’m taking my original 4.0 out and I’m going to fully rebuild it and swap it into the new truck. So thanks for the help
Awesome, keep it alive.
@@fastdadgarage-northsouthch4418 I’m going to try lol
Cheaper to fix em than it is to buy a new one. I don't need a fancy hot shot high dollar "look et me" truck. I simply need it to be dependable & clean.
Thanks for sharing this video with this information.....
Thanks for watching! Hope it was helpful
Thanks....wife brought home her 2000 Explorer with white smoke gushing from tailpipe. Did a compression test this summer trying to narrow down fuel trim issues finding each bank had one cyl a little low. Let her drive it until the time it would fail.....gonna pull the engine instead of trying to bend over pulling heads only to find it all had to come out anyway. Your vid was a huge help with confidence. I know every wire & hose etc from changing the intake gaskets out twice hunting a vac leak. It has to be a bad valve and now a blown head gasket(s).
So glad it helped some,sounds like your on your way to success
@@fastdadgarage-northsouthch4418 LOL...in Texas we just got a cold front and impossible to be outside. It's either to hot or to cold when I need to work on the truck. Maybe nick name it Goldilocks.
The engine harness unplugs with 3 or 4 plugs on the frame to separate it from the body harness. I know it was your first time but you made this job a lot harder than it is. Once you learn what needs to come off and what can stay taking this engine out is literally a 90 minute job
Thanks for the input, I always find out I could save time after doing a job.
could you refer me to where these are?
@@walkerknicely9940 if your asking about the 3 plugs. I don’t know. Sorry, maybe @kennethbouch7796 could help
I may to remove my 4.0 out of my 01 explorer sport trac, I assume it's all the same although I haven't did much engine since I was younger it really doesn't appear that difficult, the engines I prefer to work with are the old 327 350s and 400 chevy engines back then they didn't have all these sensors ,but at any rate I believe I can do, great video stay safe and God bless
Glad it helped, thanks for watch)g
Just watched your video, thanks for taking the time to film and narrate the removal....... I have one questions. Is there an access plate so that you can unbolt the fly wheel from the torque convertor?
Honestly I don’t remember seeing one.
Not sure about that model but on the 2005/6 4.0 SOHC you unbolt the torque converter through the hole where the starter motor is. Remove one bolt, rotate converter, remove 2nd etc
Good Job...I think my 2001 needs another engine after overheating ..blown head gasket. 😮
Best video I've found for guidance on this. Do you have an install video?
Thanks for watching, sorry I didn’t do any additional videos on the ranger.
Awesome video explaining how this is done. The one question I have is about the grounding wire that is connected to the wiper motor assembly. Where on the engine is it attached to?
Sorry didn’t see your question earlier. I’m not sure. Seems like it went into the harness that went down towards trans…. But I’m not sure where it terminated.
Sorry I couldn’t be more helpful. Thanks for watching
Awesome video, I'm considering pulling the engine on my 03 3.0L ranger. We're you working off a maintenance manual or something, or just pulling stuff out as you saw it needed to go?
Just pulling things as I went, if you can get a service manual that would be a good idea.
Thanks for watching
Do you need to cut off the Exhaust to be able to pull it out. I can't get the exhaust bolts to come off
I’d try anything before cutting.
Do you have to remove the torque converter from the flywheel to remove the engine?
You don’t need to but you will spill/leak trans fluid if you don’t. In the end I think it’s the better way to do it
Okay, before I watch this, I must comment on your statement about "1st time R&R engine in this vehicle." if it's anything like my 96 explorer, you're going to HATE working on it. There is no room to do anything. Every simple task turns into a fraking nightmare.
That being said, carry on then.
Hey, no fair. Do you think you could make another video without using a lift?
Yes it is. Many cuts and abrasions on my hands. Bellhousing bolts were tough to get to.
In 2000 ford switched 4.0 and gave it SOHC yours must be late 1999