Thank you so much for video. Just bought a ezgo golf cart and wanted to test the motor but didn't have a clue how. But now I do and was successful on testing my motor. Thanks Glenn
thank you so much...I had bought a golf cart for my mom who will be 92 this August and asked my brother for help testing but he did not want to help ran across your post here and was so glad I could check the motor myself everything worked on the motor tires went around thank you so much
Hey man, thanks for the video. This is exactly what I was looking for. I am going to go test my motor now. I got a cool 2002 TXT for $260. If I can get it going I scored.
Hope this can help someone else. I just got a 2006 Yamaha G22E. It had been setting in a barn for 5 or 6 years, so the batteries were shot. Before I spent $700 to $1200 on batteries, I wanted to test the motor to make sure it hadn't died. This video was as close as I could find for my Yamaha, but it contained everything I needed to figure mine out. The Yamaha motor is marked F2 (small post) F1 (small post) A1 (large post) A2 (large post) By jumping A1 to F1 and A2 to F2 then appling 12volts to A1 and A2 (polarity doesn't matter), the motor spun, much to my joy!! Now, Sam's Club has 8volt Duralast batteries for $109 each, I don't know if I'll be using it often enough to warrant more expensive batteries.
Is the motor testing for F&R. Cart only goes in F. Have checked the F&R switch wires to be good.I have traced the wires from the control board and tow switch to be correct. Solenoid resistor heating up when connected to the large post of the solenoid. Thanks
its called a shunt motor, separate excitation , you have a enclosed motor, carbon tracking is happening, you have to tear it down, clean the brush holders, did you check the brushes
Hey Glenn, I have the exact same exhorted golf cart and setup (I.e. controller, f&r switch, etc.). My controller clicks on, but wheels do not turn. Motor is good. What was the problem with yours? I’m still stumped.
Why do you use only 12 volts to test the motor ? Why not use full 6 volts ? Where does the test wiring Schematic come from ? Not to be a pia , just curious.
This will work on a 48v motor I just did it on my bad boy Buggie which is 4WD so it has 2 motors both worked so I know now it’s the controller that’s bad. I was looking for a test on 48v too. So to help anybody else out I just wanted to say that yes it does work on 48V as well.
Hi glenn i have the same ezgo car. Mi cuetion is way never charged if o have new charger an all batteries is newone to the car no used for almost 2 years
Right tire spins in reverse. Left tire doesnt spin at all. I'm hooked up + to F2. And - to A1. On my EZGo(1983) I have A1 A2 F1 F2. If right spins in reverse am I good?
Garbage! This configuration doesn't work on my EZGO TXT. Tie both 1's together and hook the negative jumper cable to them - then do the same for the 2's with the positive cable.
So technically you are just throwing parts at your EZGO golf cart? But . . . . you managed to find out how to test the electric motor which we have to give you kudos for that. But in trying to figure out your problem you changed the solenoid, batteries & other parts? In the same manner that you discovered how to test your electric motor that is the same thing you do with all suspect components. Find out how to test the components before replacing them. Throwing parts at your problem is a mistake and huge waste of time and $$$$$. Finding out how to test your components 1st to eliminate or suspect the bad component is the more proper trouble shooting technique. Eliminating the electric motor as a possible problem by testing it first is the correct troubleshooting method. Imagine if you paid the $700 - $1000 for the electric motor and swapped it out for the one you tested to be good what a waste of time & effort. You already changed up the batteries which was a huge $1000 troubleshooting mistake. Funny that's how most fix their automobiles. Thanks for putting this up.
Youre absolutly correct. I will say i have been guilty of this same thing more than id like to admit..proper testing will save you so much stress and money
Thank you so much for video. Just bought a ezgo golf cart and wanted to test the motor but didn't have a clue how. But now I do and was successful on testing my motor. Thanks Glenn
thank you so much...I had bought a golf cart for my mom who will be 92 this August and asked my brother for help testing but he did not want to help ran across your post here and was so glad I could check the motor myself everything worked on the motor tires went around thank you so much
Good video short and straight to the point very helpful. Thanks friend
Great video. Was wondering how to test my motor. This made it simple and fast. Many thanks
Thank you for this video. My tires started spinning.
Thanks this helped my jump box would only read fault I gave this a try at least I can say my motors not the issue now 😅
Thanks for the info, what did it end up being?
Hey man, thanks for the video. This is exactly what I was looking for. I am going to go test my motor now. I got a cool 2002 TXT for $260. If I can get it going I scored.
Good luck!
Hope this can help someone else. I just got a 2006 Yamaha G22E. It had been setting in a barn for 5 or 6 years, so the batteries were shot. Before I spent $700 to $1200 on batteries, I wanted to test the motor to make sure it hadn't died. This video was as close as I could find for my Yamaha, but it contained everything I needed to figure mine out. The Yamaha motor is marked
F2 (small post) F1 (small post)
A1 (large post) A2 (large post)
By jumping A1 to F1 and A2 to F2 then appling 12volts to A1 and A2 (polarity doesn't matter), the motor spun, much to my joy!!
Now, Sam's Club has 8volt Duralast batteries for $109 each, I don't know if I'll be using it often enough to warrant more expensive batteries.
Thanks. Just what I needed. Now I am on to the controller just like you. Any links to test and troubleshoot controller?
Thank you man hope you have a great day!!!
Is the motor testing for F&R. Cart only goes in F. Have checked the F&R switch wires to be good.I have traced the wires from the control board and tow switch to be correct. Solenoid resistor heating up when connected to the large post of the solenoid. Thanks
La verda muy buen truco me funciono al 100 👏👏👏👏
what ended up being the issue? I'm in the same boat.
we'll never know
its called a shunt motor, separate excitation , you have a enclosed motor, carbon tracking is happening, you have to tear it down, clean the brush holders, did you check the brushes
Its a series motor not a shunt motor, the wiring would be different if it was a shunt
Hey Glenn, I have the exact same exhorted golf cart and setup (I.e. controller, f&r switch, etc.). My controller clicks on, but wheels do not turn. Motor is good. What was the problem with yours? I’m still stumped.
I replaced the motor and updated the solenoid and F/R Switch to heavy duty.
Well my wheels are spinning.so motor is good.😃.. controller might be the issue 😡 .... tanx for vid.. good job
Most of the times its the solenoid or the forward reverse switch
So what was it? Was it your controller? Or?.
It can also be the ITS sensor or micro switch next to the sensor.
Cool idea. Can a guy jump over sensor to test or check continuity?
Is there an ITS sensor in a 1990?
it might be in the reed switch inside the battery charger female plug receptacle
that's a common problem
Why do you use only 12 volts to test the motor ? Why not use full 6 volts ? Where does the test wiring Schematic come from ? Not to be a pia , just curious.
So did you ever figure out the problem?
Do you know if it will be the same procedure with a 48 volt? Thanks
This will work on a 48v motor I just did it on my bad boy Buggie which is 4WD so it has 2 motors both worked so I know now it’s the controller that’s bad. I was looking for a test on 48v too. So to help anybody else out I just wanted to say that yes it does work on 48V as well.
@@offgridcabinaddict6314 I’m have a problem with my bad boy buggy. Anyway to contact you to see if you know what it is? I have done lots of tests.
Hi glenn i have the same ezgo car. Mi cuetion is way never charged if o have new charger an all batteries is newone to the car no used for almost 2 years
Igniting, control box or inductive Throttle sensor
Right tire spins in reverse. Left tire doesnt spin at all. I'm hooked up + to F2. And - to A1. On my EZGo(1983) I have A1 A2 F1 F2. If right spins in reverse am I good?
Release parking brake too
Did you ever find out how to fix it?
Only one of my wheels would spin. Is that normal?
depends on what kind of golf cart you have. Most likely not normal
And the broom...?
Nice tutorial
What was it bud?
I’d connect to the battery posts if possible. Not the threaded attachment bolts. You’re going to mess up the threads.
its fine
Thank you
We are having a problem were it only works in reverse.
I would get a new motor- they run around 400 to 500 bucks...
It started sparking
killer!
I now know my motor controller is dead
8
Garbage! This configuration doesn't work on my EZGO TXT. Tie both 1's together and hook the negative jumper cable to them - then do the same for the 2's with the positive cable.
So technically you are just throwing parts at your EZGO golf cart? But . . . . you managed to find out how to test the electric motor which we have to give you kudos for that. But in trying to figure out your problem you changed the solenoid, batteries & other parts?
In the same manner that you discovered how to test your electric motor that is the same thing you do with all suspect components. Find out how to test the components before replacing them. Throwing parts at your problem is a mistake and huge waste of time and $$$$$. Finding out how to test your components 1st to eliminate or suspect the bad component is the more proper trouble shooting technique. Eliminating the electric motor as a possible problem by testing it first is the correct troubleshooting method. Imagine if you paid the $700 - $1000 for the electric motor and swapped it out for the one you tested to be good what a waste of time & effort. You already changed up the batteries which was a huge $1000 troubleshooting mistake. Funny that's how most fix their automobiles. Thanks for putting this up.
Youre absolutly correct. I will say i have been guilty of this same thing more than id like to admit..proper testing will save you so much stress and money