How to wire up a NZ plug
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- Опубликовано: 12 июн 2024
- Another of the new 'Basic Skills' family of short videos. Living here in New Zealand I have to 'put up' with the really crappy NZ mains plug, they are quite simply useless and dangerous. In a workshop environment they often get broken or damaged and need to be replaced, so here's a short video showing you how to wire up a new NZ Plug...
These 'Basic Skills' videos are NOT meant to be a decisive, all encompassing, training video on teaching you all the various aspects of professional skills, no, not in the slightest!
Its a short video showing the basics giving you a starting point on how its done, the tools you need and a few tips along the way...
Any questions then please leave them in the comments section below and I'll do my best to get back to you asap...
Andy Mechanic! 
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Thanks for this. I love learning to be self sufficient, i appreciate your reaching style too. ☮️
Hi Andy. Thank you so much for your tutorial... I need to change the plug on my vacuum cleaner. You made it clear to understand.. I am so grateful....
Excellent tutorial Andy. Clear step by step 🙏
Thanks Andy, great video and easy to follow.
great video, thanks Andy
Thanks for teaching me something new. Cheers 👍
Excellent video.
cheers for the video and your right we do need to fix things more ourselves especially simple things like replacing a plug , instead of paying an electrician
Cheers. Thanks for the feedback.
hey mate moving back to kiwi land very helpful video
Meh, I don't think the UK plugs are better. The fuses inside them are the result of a bygone age of wiring standards in the UK, and not essential these days with modern switchboards and wiring standards. All they do is serve to make the plugs big and bulky. As a result, you have to have a big plug, and space around the outlet. NZ/AUS plugs are a lot more compact, and can be plugged directly in, as opposed to the 90* angle of the UK one. Sockets can therefore be compact, in horizontal and vertical orientation. Also, NZ plugs don't need an earth pin. Adding an earth pin to something that doesn't need it does not make it safer, its just again, wasted space. NZ plugs can again be smaller, as UK plugs need to have the earth for the shutters. NZ plugs, the most common brand/model of outlet is the PDL 600 series which has a shutter controlled on the neutral side, so no earth needed for a shutter. Because the pins are thinner, its harder to insert foreign objects into them. About the only argument that can be made is that the pins can be bent easily (and bent back easily), and you can buy some very flimsy feeling plugs. Both NZ and UK require sheathing on the active and neutral pins to prevent a short circuit/ground fault when they are left partially plugged in.
Hi Larry, excellent info & thanks for taking the time to explain why the UK plugs are different (much better design in my opinion).
The 'multi-boards here usually have an overload switch that pops out if too much current. They should trigger at 10 amps but some are quite reluctant to pop out despite excessive load whilst others seem to pop well under the 10 amps - some are also incredibly cheap so quality range is vast. You do hear of fires caused by these so I always buy good quality ones.
Thanks again
Andy
haha.... have you ever experience a faulty main circuit breaker where it stay on and won't trip even over current limit?
yes, the fuse is not needed if everything work fine, you have your MCB protecting
but in case MCB failed, fuse is an extra barrier and fuse hardly fail due to its simplicity
also if you plugged you plug into a 32A MCB circuit, the 32A MCB won't do much for you until things start to melt.
but yeah UK plug certainly is one of the safest plug in the world but yep it is bulky as F*** is undeniable
Cheers Andy
I don’t blame you for using a U.K. plug for your tools and plugging them into an extension block with of course a NZ plug.
If I was ever to emigrate to NZ or Australia and I took my De Walt cordless tools over there,I would do exactly the same thing.
Some appliances have fuses internally instead of in the plug.
Thanks for the video! One thing I really miss is UK plugs. NZ plugs are always falling out of sockets and power boards. It takes very little to jostle them to partly fall out. Something so safety-important should feel big (enough) and solid, not flimsy. I'm no electrician (more IT), and appreciate NZ has switchboards to trip at 10A etc. However, individual appliances in UK are fused to their expected amps, e.g. 3A - so a much finer level of safety than just relying on a whole circuit at 10A to trip etc. Also, just that one device should fail first, rather than take down your whole circuit - potentially important for IT devices etc, especially as the world gets more automated.
Hi Andy. Thanks for your video. Is the process the same with 2 pin plugs?
+TheAbbynz yes, they just don't have an earth. Cheers Andy
Yeah, so having lived in England for 9 years, I prefer the Aussie / Kiwi plugs to the bulky UK plugs, simply because they are compact, plus you can choose between side and back entry style. However, I guess it's what you're used to more than anything else.
Having an internal fuse sounds like a good idea, but the reality is they're not necessary (just don't buy the cheapest Kiwi plug at the hardware store for appliances like heaters & hairdryers - there's a reason they're cheap!)
Non-fused Aussie / Kiwi plugs are not dangerous and badly designed and they don't often result in fires. The Grenfell Tower fire in London was caused by a faulty fridge, which had both a UK fused plug and a separate fused switch in the kitchen ring-main circuit, but it still caught fire...
If you find the plugs are falling out of the wall sockets, it's time to change the wall sockets.
A helpful mnemonic I use when wiring UK equipment to Kiwi plugs is Black & Blue for Neutral, Brown & Red for Active (live).
Otherwise, a useful explainer video for someone who has very limited experience with electrical stuff.
The UK plug is the size it is to cater to arthritic fingers, that's also why it has grip channels moulded into the side
It has the distinction of being pretty much the only plug in the world that was entirely designed by an industrial designer (Caroline Haslett) who had both elderly parents and young children, rather than a committee of electrical workers and the design considerations reflect the difference - safety and durability is first, with manufacturability following, rather than the other way around
Yes, the fuse is a product of ring-mains (which are deprecated for new UK installations in the latest electrical regulations and were discouraged for the last 15 years or so), but the shutters, pins, earth-up configuration etc were all considerations for ensuring small children couldn't easily hurt themselves(*) and the lack of rear entry is _specifically_ to ensure that plugs aren't removed by yanking on the cord (rear entry plugs are no longer permitted in New Zealand for the same reason)
(*) Many years ago, my 3-year-old brother plugged a device in, realised he wasn't allowed to do so and couldn't pull the plug out, so attempted to lever it out using a knife. Luckily for him the knife had a rubber handle, but my parents kept it for decades in order to demonstrate the chunks that had been bitten out of it to their primary school pupils - finger protection is one thing but very few plugs had protection against this kind of removal attempt until the 1970s
@alanbrown397 Interesting back story & really helps validate why the UK plugs are so well designed. I wish we had them here in NZ, so often I have to straighten bent pins on the lightweight NZ plugs, plus they just don't stay in the socket very well either.
Appreciate the info, Thank You. Andy
@@alanbrown397 - that's interesting the UK plug was designed for people with arthritis etc. and makes sense why they're chunky.
Rear-entry plugs have not been banned in NZ. Nearly every appliance, power board and extension cord sold have rear-entry plugs and they have to be molded to the cable, which is for safety reasons in case they are pulled out of the socket by the cable.
Like the UK, the active and neutral pins require some insulated shielding, which wasn't always the case - don't ask me how I know 😆
Honestly, since I wrote the original post, I've come to appreciate how well both UK plugs and sockets are designed, even if I prefer the smaller size of the Oz / Kiwi plug.
@@richardbaron7106 You can't buy a rear entry plug to attach to bare cable (which is what I was referring to) and there are moves afoot to remove moulded rear-entry from the market too. Moulded side-entry have existed for over 55 years and usually have hand grip lines moulded into them (or tapers, which serve the same purpose)
Shielded pins only became mandatory in the 2000s - I left New Zealand before that rule was passed. The incident involving my brother happened in 1969 and he somehow managed to trigger a neighbourhood-wide blackout as it took out a pole fuse (the plug involved was a moulded side entry one, which is how I know they existed back then)
If you have a socket where the plugs are pulling out easily then it needs changing as it's a fire hazard. They have a design lifespan in any case (Ancient (1960s-70s) PDL outlets with a tiny toggle are particularly dangerous and should be replaced on sight)
New Zealands maritime climate results in all socket contacts eventualy going green(oxidisation) and nasty internally - even in the mountains you can't get away from the salty air - and any outlet more than 30 years old should be regarded with suspicion (outlets sold during protectionist days of the 1950s-late 1980s weren't very good and had poor quality control). There are contact pressure specs which can be tested but it's simpler to just replace anything which feels "off"
Interestingly, a British plug _CAN_ be disconnected by whipping the cable, but they usually don't come out of the socket
The UK plug is the only one in common use worldwide that was designed after WW2. The AU/NZ one was adopted/adapted from a Hubbell design around 1927(+) in Sydney by a consortium of manufacturers and formalised in 1936. European ones all have a common ancestor but were tweaked for market captivity(*) until the Shuko came along
The NZ (and USA) plug was originally "earth up" for falling object safety but rotated to "earth down" in the late 1930s to ensure that earth was the last pin to detach if tugged downwards
the Museum of Plugs and Sockets is worth looking at - plugsocketmuseum dot nl
(*) Locking customers into "local" manufacturers. It's a form of non-tarriffed protectionist barrier
(+) There's some argument on the exact date. I'm working from a 1980s Electronics Australia article which interviewed people who were involved in the process. It took about 6 years for all local manufacturers to agree but the design was used by the 3 largest from a very early point in the process
Where best (cheapest) to buy 3 or 4 of those NZ mains plugs? Thanks in advance
My understanding of code of compliance is that the earth conductor should always be longer than phase and neutral, this ensures that this is the last conductor remaining in the event flex is forceably removed with AC supply still on to the appliance - this is why the earth pin is longer. This ensures that any earthed appliance remains so at all times up until disconnect from AC supply.
Interesting & makes complete sense too. Thanks for this info. Cheers Andy
Yes Geoff you are correct. However not all plugs have an Earth plug especially if the appliance is double insulated
yep , you are right, the Earth pin is a bit longer than L and N and many UK style socket use it to open the protected cover for L and N pin as extra safety
what wire did you use? and were did u get it?
Same plugs/sockets in China (or close enough to the same that NZ plugs will fit into Chinese sockets) except (a) sockets are typically mounted with the earth pin at the top rather than the bottom and (b) the socket may have a safety interlock on the earth pin. The latter is a pain if trying to plug in a USB cell phone charger that has only two pins. In that case, a good work around is to have a 3-pin NZ plug to US socket adaptor and a US charger. Or better yet, since Chinese sockets often also have a US style socket in addition to the NZ socket (albeit at 240 v rather than 120 !) just plug your US cell phone charger into that, saving the 3-pin socket for your laptop.
In my job I'm always having to replace those weak flimsy NZ plugs and wall sockets because they get smashed off and sometimes the pin will break off inside the wall socket.
Very true. I'm always bending the pins straight. Crappy in my opinion. Plus the Mig just melts them! Lol
Hey Andy, i have a question, how would you go about changing a 3 phase plug to a plug shown here in your video? The 3 phase plug powers a 12' jointer.I think its a commercial plug??.Hope you can help.Thank you.
Hi Lincoln, if the jointer has a 3 phase plug then it requires a 3 phase supply. You cant just change the plug to a single phase 240v as it won't work.
If possible you will need to change the electric motor to a single phase one - you'll need to speak to an electrician
Andy
"A" is for Active (phase) for the record.
When twisting the strands do so in a clockwise direction using your right hand preferably, this is the direction it is twisted throughout the cable.
Also make sure you give the wire a tug to check if it's secure after each termination, including when you have it all reassembled.
(Not condoning rewiring anything yourself)
Thanks Steve for your input on this. Cheers Andy
Three more points:
1: Cut the earth wire half an inch longer than the other two.
You want it to break _last_ and be the last wire to exit the plug if it does.
2: Fold the end of the twisted wire over, so that the screw bites into the folded over end of the wire.
That way when the end of the screw breaks strands (and it _will_ break strands), they're not the ones carrying current (not a problem if the screw doesn't bite into the wire, as in some saddle clamp designs)
3: NEVER solder the ends of wires going into a screw clamp (or any other kind of clamp connection).
The solder will deform over time, leading to the clamping becoming loose, then resistance forming and the joint getting hot, which causes more solder deformation and more heat, usually going intermittent eventually - and then either falling out or catching fire - they burn up more often than falling out.
If you ever encounter soldered ends in a clamped wire, do yourself a favour and cut them off before reterminating them properly (this applies as much to signalling wires as power ones, but that's because solder oxidises more readily than copper and will eventually cause the joint to go intermittent even without high currents.
It's not just mains where this is a problem and supposedly professional equipment often gets done like this, so never assume it's ok.
In the 1980s, NEC supplied and installed a satellite station in Wellington, near Mt Crawford prison. The japanese techs soldered all the wire ends before inserting them into the terminations (48V and mains 3phase). 3 weeks after completion the wiring caught fire and the entire inside of the building was gutted.
Great tips Steve thank you for sharing...
Hi there, love this video a big help! But a lot of my uk wiring doesnt have an earth! Why is that do you know? Feeling very nervous!
Hmmmm...do you mean the appliance only has the live & neutral or are you referring to the house wiring?
@@AndyMechanic oops i meant the appliance! Come over from the uk in the container just the other week. House is about a year old.
Ah, okay. Not a problem at all. Many appliances are double insulated so do not require an earth.
Just wire up a NZ plig with the live & natural only, leaving the earth terminal empty & you'll be just fine :-)
All the best. Andy
@Andy Mechanic thank you! All the best for 2023!
Excellent tutorial Andy. I am in Australia and our plugs are identical to NZ. and I agree with you, the plugs are crappy, most of them are made in China.
We share our plug design/ standard with Australia so lets blame them.
Your UK plugs are rated at 13A, ours are 10A. So any higher current items will overload your circuits, good luck with your insurance company!
there are 10A plug with 10A fuse inside and a bit bulky like the UK plug,
plus if your circuit breaker doesn't do anything when thing is over 10A
i guess the chance of getting $$ from insurance company is damn low anyway
13Amp maximum for that type of U.K. plug.But over here most people vary the fuses they put in the plug depending on the appliances.
I hear you re NZ plugs. The number of times I have heard arcing from one in a multi way socket because they don't push in correctly is alarming.
Exactly
What about wiring UK 2pin into NZ 3pin, how do you get around that?
Hi Clare, the 2 pin will just be Live & Neutral, there won't be an Earth wire
Hope this helps
Cheers Andy
@@AndyMechanic thanks Andy, I eventually figured it out. Often UK plugs have a plastic pin and NZ has nothing for 2-pin, wondered if I had to remove the third 'metal' (NZ) pin but you don't need to. So I fired ahead and successfully replugged hair dryer!
Woohoo! Hair back under control then :-)
Cheers Andy
smart
Mine is an old plug. Red green black. Assume red green are earth?
A (Phase) = Hot
Blue (Neutral) = Common
Earth = Ground
Here in the US we don't use the internal clamps in plugs or outlets. We put half a loop on the end of the wire, wrap it around the screw and tighten it down. Internal clamps as well as push-in holes for wires have a tendency to come loose and cause an arc and possibly a fire.
Would it work if I did that for an Australian plug?
+Thomas Plows Hi Thomas, sorry, I'm not sure about an Australian plug. I'm sure you'll find some info on Google.
Thanks Andy
Andy Mechanic ok thanks anyway
+Scott Breuer Hi crew, since making the video I have now been to Australia and can confirm the plugs are the same. Cheers Andy
Andy Mechanic brilliant many thanks
I'd rather not. Best to put the wires into the labelled connections.
Pissed off with nothing that I am searching for, how can this be miniature electrical connections.
I have no idea, just the way RUclips works I suppose?
You should see the plugs they use in Canada and USA. You don't like the NZ ones? North American plugs are TWICE as flimsy. Most NZ & English plugs sit sort of flat, with the cord coming out the bottom (or slightly diagonaled). The N.A. cords poke out straight from the back of the plug, with makes them "longer" and more unbalanced. They also have straight prongs which makes them more prone to sliding loose. And the earth prong is VERY susceptible to breaking off.
+Kauwhaka Damn. Do your plugs have an internal fuse like the English ones?
No.
Unfortunately not. Nz plugs are extremely badly designed and because they aren't fused they often cause problems like fires!
were did you buy the plugs. The ones in the Waouse are pretty shit
I think they came from Mitre10 from memory. Agreed, there are better plugs around than those from the Warehouse. Cheers Andy
Thanks, Andy.
When I returned to New Zealand recently from London I brought back several power tools with UK plugs including a table saw, Planer and Mitre Saw. Your video was the first one I've found which actually addresses the matter of converting UK plugs to NZ plugs. I now feel confident enough to change them over.
Any suggestions where I can get decent plugs? Or can I just cut them off some old appliances?
Cheers.
+Adrian Edhouse there are some good NZ black rubber type plugs available at Mitre10. Not cheap but they do last :-)
Thanks Andy. I'll check them out tomorrow.
Thanks Andy. I'll check them out tomorrow.
Result! Popped down to both Mitre10 and Bunnings and noticed Bunnings happened to have a greater range right now so grabbed a couple of different plugs.
Ended up using a straight through type rubber type (Not side entry) as I was rewiring a Dewalt Planer and will likely need to use an extension cord with it. Didn't want plastic parted dragging around on the worksite. Will save the plastic types for the table and mitre saws.
Thanks for your help Andy.
By the way, I happen to be competing a CAT Carpentry course at Unitec right now. Small world.
I don’t see why Australia and New Zealand and other countries don’t use the U.K. plug.I think the U.K. plug is far more secure.
I completely agree, the plugs here are seriously crappy
Cheers Andy
I think that is a bit disrespectful to the country you live in to assume that the UK does things better. Modern switch boards mean that you don't need fuses in your plugs...
Disrespectful? he is only stating an opinion, calm down
Your intro is way too long. but other than that good video.
+supercheekykiwi Thanks. Yes, sorry
I was going to skip the intro to get to the action, but then decided better watch the whole thing. Glad I did. Would've missed the bit about the ouchy brown wire if touched when plugged in! Good to know. Thanks for the tutorial. Will save me the Electrician bill, but worse the call out fee on top of that 😊
11 min bit long how to fit a plug
Sorry I take that back great knowledge And facts thanks
UK plugs suck...
In what way?