Enjoy your videos and find them very useful.Most of the Abu Cardinal spinning reels sold in this area in the 80s were the rear drag type,i still use 3 of the metal bodied ones and prefer them to a couple of newer reels i have and was still able to get some parts for them.They were built in Korea,Japan or Sweden depending on the model.
These are solid reels, and like their top drag counterparts, will last a long time when properly maintained. The complaint I hear a lot is that the reels are bigger and more bulky than their comparable sized top drag models. I get the same on bait feeders , which need the bigger body to accommodate the design. Thanks - Dennis
The Shimano SSG 7000 I sent you a picture of actually has a huge drag washer right behind the spool. I was surprised to see it. It’s not much of a drag but the schematic calls it the spool drag washer. I tightened the spool down and it did create some light drag. I also found the rear drag had 12 drag washers. It is a very strong drag for a rear drag eel. I’m thinking about replacing the main gear bushings with ball bearings if I can get them in the correct size. That double clip was much easier than the two e-clips on the 7000. The AR was totally located right above the ball bearing/pinions and operated with a long shaft. I worked on a reel recently that was missing that V piece on the main gear shaft to interact with the AR. I successfully bent a spring and created a new spring to serve the same function as that V piece. I was proud of that. Without it the reel was useless. Why don’t manufacturers attach that crosswind block with a screw on these rear drag reels instead of those annoying clips? Is it because a screw I’m guessing it is because the axle shafts are longer in these rear drag reels and a hole higher up that shaft would weaken it. I know my SSG 7000 has the longest axle shaft I’ve ever seen. The reel is nearly 9” long. This is a great video to explain the rear drag. Thanks Dennis!
Max drag is a function of drag area, so a lot of washers adds to the surface area and therefore max drag will increase. Now you know why this one is saltwater capable! Dennis
thank you for this, i was taking apart my shimano fx200 because there was some noise when reeling in at times and i figured maybe it was sand or something and i wanted to give the gear box a cleaning, problem was i took the drag system apart and its similar to the one you are showing with a plastic white cap with some toothed top housing a washer and a spring then came more washers with tabs sandwiching the drag fabric washers but i could not figure out what that toothed metal gear was on the end for as i did not notice any function for it,perhaps it fits into the body inside? anyways after assembling it back i noticed the screw drag adjustment knob was no longer making the clicking sound and i was sure it had something to do with that retaining spring ,tried taking it off and putting it back on many times and the knob was still lose and not clicking, i figured maybe the spring was no longer tight and touching the plastig bears on the cap so i gave it a squeeze and put it back in and now its clicking again :) ,its tricky because there are two slots for the spring ends to fit into but one of them is divided in two and i figured maybe one end needs to be fitted somehow differently but i think in the end i did not bother with that and simply put both ends in the bigger slots ,sure hope i put everything back the right way lol ,also could not remove the main gear and di not want to start unscrewing any further so i just dowsed the box with kerosene to degrease and clean it as well as dw40 and then added grease and machine oil ,could not open the top part where the arbor goes into so i simply droped oil in from the top
Sounds like you did well. Sometimes the arbor gets frozen in place and it is best to leave it alone and not try to remove it, however, it is likely that the arbor bearing is your noise maker - Dennis
@@2ndChanceTackle hmm i think mine only has two bearings and not sure if one of them is on the arbor ,but the noise was like zzzzzsttt zzzzzzzzrsst ,anyways hopefully its cleared up ,ill find out on my next fishing trip,, thank you very much for answering all my calls
Hi Dennis, I can‘t remove the Metal cap that holds the spring. I‘ve removed the retaining clip previously like you did in the Video. I can turn that cap to the left and to the right and when I press it I can feel the Spring underneath the cap. I‘ve pulled very hard on that cap but it will not come off. Can you please give me and Advice? Greetings from Germany.
@@2ndChanceTackle It‘s a no name reel. My father used to fish with it. The rear drag is tight so I wanted to fix it because I wanted to keep the reel as a good memory. The Metal Cap is like the one in your Video. I can send a picture by E-Mail if this is possible. Best regards - Andreas
Usually the answer is that you should not grease the washers in rear drag reels unless they are fabric washers. Most of these reels have hard, non-porous washers and grease will not help those - Dennis
@@2ndChanceTackle hmm well ive seen what looks like greyish grease on mine perhaps some kind of thermal grease and i have seen vids on greasing them both rear and front drags,, anyways i decided to put some silicone grease on mine which is safe on plastics and rubber etc
What reel? On many of these reels you can unscrew the top even though it doesn't come off the outer ring around the button can unscrew. There will be a two finger sling clip under the top that grabs the shaft. You can separate the fingers and remove the spool that way - Dennis
I don't have that reel or. similar one in my shop. You will need to remove the drag cap to get at the washers. It is likely that the drags have adhered to the metal washers as a result of dried grease. The drag cap would be held in by a bottom screw in the cap or a clip once you open up the side plate - Sorry I can't help further - Dennis
Hello, Denis. I am in Panama, Central America, and follow your postings with joy. Quick question: I own 2 Shimano IX4000r that have anti-reverse issues. In one, the thin wire clip is split, and may be the source of the problem. Do you have any advise? I service the reels myself. Cheers and thank you for sharing your knowledge. Ed Jaen
That anti-reverse is controlled by a spring. The long tag end rests inside the post along the back of the A/R dog. The hook end of the spring goes over the outer edge of the dog so that it applies pressure to push the dog inside. put the spring circle under the A/R dog screw first. Position the hook on the side of the dog and tighten the dog screw. Leave the tag end free until every thing is in position. Once they are, set the tag end inside that outer post and you should have a functioning anti-reverse. If you have a broken spring, it will need to be replaced. You can see the schematic by following this link www.mikesreelrepair.com/content/schematics/Shimano_ix_4000r.pdf Dennis
Which reel do you have? There are various tie down methods used with the shaft and crosswind block. Some use small C clips that need to be removed first - Dennis
I am your biggest fan. Keep up the good videos dad.
Thanks Bro. Someday this could all be yours...... : )
@@2ndChanceTackle can I have the business instead
Enjoy your videos and find them very useful.Most of the Abu Cardinal spinning reels sold in this area in the 80s were the rear drag type,i still use 3 of the metal bodied ones and prefer them to a couple of newer reels i have and was still able to get some parts for them.They were built in Korea,Japan or Sweden depending on the model.
These are solid reels, and like their top drag counterparts, will last a long time when properly maintained. The complaint I hear a lot is that the reels are bigger and more bulky than their comparable sized top drag models. I get the same on bait feeders , which need the bigger body to accommodate the design. Thanks - Dennis
Thanks for the reply,they are heavier,close to the Okuma bait feeder i have.
The Shimano SSG 7000 I sent you a picture of actually has a huge drag washer right behind the spool. I was surprised to see it. It’s not much of a drag but the schematic calls it the spool drag washer. I tightened the spool down and it did create some light drag. I also found the rear drag had 12 drag washers. It is a very strong drag for a rear drag eel. I’m thinking about replacing the main gear bushings with ball bearings if I can get them in the correct size. That double clip was much easier than the two e-clips on the 7000. The AR was totally located right above the ball bearing/pinions and operated with a long shaft. I worked on a reel recently that was missing that V piece on the main gear shaft to interact with the AR. I successfully bent a spring and created a new spring to serve the same function as that V piece. I was proud of that. Without it the reel was useless. Why don’t manufacturers attach that crosswind block with a screw on these rear drag reels instead of those annoying clips? Is it because a screw I’m guessing it is because the axle shafts are longer in these rear drag reels and a hole higher up that shaft would weaken it. I know my SSG 7000 has the longest axle shaft I’ve ever seen. The reel is nearly 9” long. This is a great video to explain the rear drag. Thanks Dennis!
Max drag is a function of drag area, so a lot of washers adds to the surface area and therefore max drag will increase. Now you know why this one is saltwater capable! Dennis
thank you for this, i was taking apart my shimano fx200 because there was some noise when reeling in at times and i figured maybe it was sand or something and i wanted to give the gear box a cleaning, problem was i took the drag system apart and its similar to the one you are showing with a plastic white cap with some toothed top housing a washer and a spring then came more washers with tabs sandwiching the drag fabric washers but i could not figure out what that toothed metal gear was on the end for as i did not notice any function for it,perhaps it fits into the body inside? anyways after assembling it back i noticed the screw drag adjustment knob was no longer making the clicking sound and i was sure it had something to do with that retaining spring ,tried taking it off and putting it back on many times and the knob was still lose and not clicking, i figured maybe the spring was no longer tight and touching the plastig bears on the cap so i gave it a squeeze and put it back in and now its clicking again :) ,its tricky because there are two slots for the spring ends to fit into but one of them is divided in two and i figured maybe one end needs to be fitted somehow differently but i think in the end i did not bother with that and simply put both ends in the bigger slots ,sure hope i put everything back the right way lol ,also could not remove the main gear and di not want to start unscrewing any further so i just dowsed the box with kerosene to degrease and clean it as well as dw40 and then added grease and machine oil ,could not open the top part where the arbor goes into so i simply droped oil in from the top
Sounds like you did well. Sometimes the arbor gets frozen in place and it is best to leave it alone and not try to remove it, however, it is likely that the arbor bearing is your noise maker - Dennis
@@2ndChanceTackle hmm i think mine only has two bearings and not sure if one of them is on the arbor ,but the noise was like zzzzzsttt zzzzzzzzrsst ,anyways hopefully its cleared up ,ill find out on my next fishing trip,, thank you very much for answering all my calls
Hi Dennis, I can‘t remove the Metal cap that holds the spring. I‘ve removed the retaining clip previously like you did in the Video. I can turn that cap to the left and to the right and when I press it I can feel the Spring underneath the cap. I‘ve pulled very hard on that cap but it will not come off. Can you please give me and Advice? Greetings from Germany.
Which reel are you working on? These come out differently depending on the model and manufacturer - Dennis
@@2ndChanceTackle It‘s a no name reel. My father used to fish with it. The rear drag is tight so I wanted to fix it because I wanted to keep the reel as a good memory. The Metal Cap is like the one in your Video. I can send a picture by E-Mail if this is possible. Best regards - Andreas
Yes - my email is 2ndchancetackle@gmail.com. Please send the picture
did you not forget to put the bushing ir bearing on the main gear before closing the box?
The busing was in the cast (box)
@@2ndChanceTackle ok yes
the drag system should not have any oil or greas in it right? should juts be wiped cleaned?
Usually the answer is that you should not grease the washers in rear drag reels unless they are fabric washers. Most of these reels have hard, non-porous washers and grease will not help those - Dennis
@@2ndChanceTackle hmm well ive seen what looks like greyish grease on mine perhaps some kind of thermal grease and i have seen vids on greasing them both rear and front drags,, anyways i decided to put some silicone grease on mine which is safe on plastics and rubber etc
should all reels be sea or salt water proof with no rusting anywhere?
Should they be? Ideally, yes, but that adds expense to the reel and may make them unaffordable - Dennis
@@2ndChanceTackle so there are salt water reels n rods then, we can use fresh water equipemtn too but it must be washed down i guess
How to remove spool if button doesn't work ..i press it and it wont come off
What reel? On many of these reels you can unscrew the top even though it doesn't come off the outer ring around the button can unscrew. There will be a two finger sling clip under the top that grabs the shaft. You can separate the fingers and remove the spool that way - Dennis
@@2ndChanceTackle zebco 40 classic with thr duel lever
hello i have a silstar cx 80 and the drag is stuck can you help me?
I don't have that reel or. similar one in my shop. You will need to remove the drag cap to get at the washers. It is likely that the drags have adhered to the metal washers as a result of dried grease. The drag cap would be held in by a bottom screw in the cap or a clip once you open up the side plate - Sorry I can't help further - Dennis
Hello, Denis. I am in Panama, Central America, and follow your postings with joy. Quick question: I own 2 Shimano IX4000r that have anti-reverse issues. In one, the thin wire clip is split, and may be the source of the problem. Do you have any advise? I service the reels myself.
Cheers and thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Ed Jaen
That anti-reverse is controlled by a spring. The long tag end rests inside the post along the back
of the A/R dog. The hook end of the spring goes over the outer edge of the dog so that it applies pressure to push the dog inside. put the spring circle under the A/R dog screw first. Position the hook on the side of the dog and tighten the dog screw. Leave the tag end free until every thing is in position. Once they are, set the tag end inside that outer post and you should have a functioning anti-reverse. If you have a broken spring, it will need to be replaced. You can see the schematic by following this link www.mikesreelrepair.com/content/schematics/Shimano_ix_4000r.pdf Dennis
my shaft wont come out
Which reel do you have? There are various tie down methods used with the shaft and crosswind block. Some use small C clips that need to be removed first - Dennis