Thank you so much for making this video. I have to take on this project with an ebay replacement. I hope I have better luck with a used one than you did. Anyway, I have been putting this off and your video is helping to motivate me to finally do it.
I'm part way through this job and this is the best video I've found. Thanks for taking the time to include all the little details like clip removal. 700000km on the car (in Canada) so this is either the end of life for this car, or a DIY job. What's different so far about mine is all the rust! You've kept yours looking great under the hood for a 2006!
Really glad to hear the video could help man. Best wishes on yours. I think climate has a lot to do with it. This vehicle has lived its life in Oregon in the US - not a lot of snow, so not a lot of corrosion as a consequence of the salt that gets put on the roads to help with icy conditions.
Kudos to you, for not giving up on your self, I did the eBay for $200 no warranty, it worked up to no beep and no accumulator often activity, but VSC, brake light, stay on because not knowing how the bleeding procedure correctly, I tried with help but they give up too soon, 20 minutes. 04 prius 212k millage on mine.Then I used the push broom and empty plastic bottle to hold press on pedal, while I bleed brakes. With scanner like yours I was able to clear lights after I did finally seen a vídeo that explained from begin to end, and scanner use to complete job. One year later in my case but i was able to use it during that time. ( When scannner said place relay back in fuse box and do not open doors for 2 minutes! I crawled out trogh window 2 times, other time, trough back hatch I leave open. No help? I had to manage some how? : ). Thanks for detail, not knowing, does cost time and money, but the learning would not be taken away from you, and I have a scanner proven to be useful many times over already . Thanks for sharing. How not to spend too much. A constructive note: taking off wiper assembly makes it a much easier job adding a bit more time.
Glad the used parts worked for you at least for a year or so. Mine has something like 180k miles.. figure the new HV battery and brake actuator will outlive the vehicle. Might get some return on the investment by reselling them if so. I had heard that about taking the wiper assembly off and had it in mind while doing the job, but I guess I didn’t feel like it was in my way at any point so wasn’t worth it to me. FYI: for the step where you wait 2. Minutes without opening the door - I just left my door open the whole time and it wasn’t an issue. No need to crawl through the window (that must have been pretty awkward!). I think the point is that the brake actuator is activated by the door opening. So as long as you don’t close the door then reopen it, there shouldn’t be a problem. Glad you found the video useful, and that all my adventures with this job could benefit others as well!
Man I decided to take on this job with a used one and when putting the last nut on the actuator mount, I broke it 😢 I’m currently letting it cure with JB weld praying to god this actuator is good. The reason I went with it, is because it’s the newer part number (same as yours in the video) so that tells me I got someone’s replacement. It’s from a 2008 so I have high hopes. I appreciate your video, say a prayer for me! 😂
Thanks for very detailed video. I have 2009 Prius. Bought used 6 months ago. Since I bought it, I was hearing abs pump running everytime I press and release brakes. However, brakes were working fine and no abs lights on dash. Recently I got abs light with red triangle and I lost brakes completely. Luckily I was withon my drive way so was not a issue. I replaced abs actuator yesterday, bought a used one from car recycling shop. Replaced abs pump, bleed brakes using scanner, same like you did. Brakes are working fine again and no abs light. However, I still hear that abs pump running almost every 2nd time I press and release brake pedal. Wondering the new used abs pump recycling shop gave me is it faulty or is it that I did not properly bleed brakes ? Please help. Thank you.
@waqarqadeer5217, normal for pump abs to activate when pressed, when you open door does it too. No need to alarm for that. When it activates every 5 minutes or 10 minutes for not pressing brake pedal or opening door? Then, that would be signs your ABS pump is loosing pressure for no reason. Hope it helps. You could take the car to Toyota for engine oil change, then they check car for same/ no extra charge, less than $100. They will do visual inspection and tell you what they see wrong with it, if any, be sure to ask for check brake shoes when they rotate tires if you want to do that? That way you will know. If repairs are recommended? You do not have to do it? You take your time to decide when? And where? But yes, Toyota parts OEM are better to be used for warranty and for durability. They are worth the extra $. In my experience. Red triangle comes on if I go in reverse with door open. Doesn't mean car is broken or battery is bad!?. Just sharing, hope it helps.
Prior to doing this job I would check voltage levels to ensure you have that since there are connectors above the battery area that get corrode and cause issues to the module next to the battery which is the Capacitor bank that retains power for the brakes in event of power failure... Did you not have to program the new accumulator to the BCM/ECM through the dealer?
Didn’t do any sort of programming on the new brake actuator that was installed. Still working just fine for me to date. The dealer here was pretty unhelpful and seemed unwilling to touch anything unless they did the entire job of replacing the actuator themselves. Tried taking it to the dealer to have them do the computer assisted brake bleed after installing the first used actuator which I got on eBay, and they refused. I imagine their response would have been the same after installing the new actuator that I bought from Toyota.
The biggest thing I learned from previous experience is to have the tool to bleed the brakes, if the ecm doesn't get the correct reading it will continue to apply too much pressure and you'll keep blowing out wheel cylinders. Other than that its my understanding that you need to program a new accumulator to the ECM through the dealer. I learned from other videos that if you just change the motor part to affect the repair programming isn't necessary.... Couple tips to help those with this condition.
That last brake bleed step with the fronts and opening the actuators. The one where you said bad directions and helf the pedal down. Did you have a hose on the screw? I read it as its releasing pressure and the hose will block it too much.
Jusy had this job done on my 09 Prius. I also got the part for $1,134 online, from an out of state dealer, cuz a local dealer just couldn't/wouldn't match it. They did install it though. No more annoying buzzing.
Remove cowel, i put marker caps over the brake lines to protect them and tied them back. I also put a latex glove over every plug pigtail. I spent the money and got a snap on 10mm wrench.
So, on the step that you have for the actuator braking... I have gotten to the 30 times pressing down to open solonoids, but after that is done, it says that the air bleeding has failed. What can I do in that case? I have already repeated the steps multiple times and can get to the next step in the procedures for installing the relays back in.
So, I didn't run the entire test as it would not let it proceed. I am driving it after doing the manual brak bleed and the electronic bleed by plugging in the relays and bleeding the rear brakes. So far, no issues besides the common one with the relay abs code. The brake is like the day it rolled off the lot.
Sorry to be seeing this so late - I believe I kept getting that error on my scan tool when the 12v battery was low. It seems to take a lot of juice from the battery to run through the brake bleed - in fact mine discharged to a point where I couldn’t get it to recharge and I ended up needing to install a new one.. so if I didn’t mention it in the video , it’s a good idea to keep the 12v topped off, or even on a charger as you’re working your way through the bleed process.
@ChristopherJeremiahCullen All good! I appreciate you responding and asking questions! So, that's an interesting point because I had a charger hooked up to it, but the power source was a Jumpstart inverter plug that didn't do so well to the point where the Jumpstarter turned itself off due to the watt overload. So, now my hybrid battery states that it is low and the red triangle and check engine came on when it was very hot outside. So, probably need a recharge and tested the cells and they were good. In conclusion, the brakes still work on my Prius without doing that computer test for specifically the brake actuator, but instead did the regular bleed test. No air in the brakes either, feels like driving off the lot. Thank you for such a well organized and detailed video!! This should be the standard for car repair videos. Patience, performance, precision.
Yeah - mines up around 185,000. Evidently it’s a really common failure - Toyota even extended the warranty on that part where people could have it changed free up until 2017 I think
@@ChristopherJeremiahCullen saw a video how they fix these in India and reuse them... well unless it is an internal leak, but the motor itself is not too hard to repair, it is so sad that Toyota charges so much for this part,
First of all, congratulations on tacking such a diffucult issue. I am in the same situation you were in. We bought a used part from ebay the brakes work fine now but we still have the lights on. But ordering the part, installing it etc took about 2 months. He stalled us that long. He said he cant fix it and cant be arsed to buy a new one and install that. So I brought it to another shop and he says he will buy new but he doesnt know which one to buy because the numbers on the part need to match. But I found that a little weird because all the I looked into had different numbers. I have a 2006 prius as you do. Any chance you can englighten me as to how to buy the right part?
Hey there - Thanks! Sorry to hear you’re having some trouble with the mechanics getting yours fixed. For what it’s worth, one shop I brought mine to locally said the same thing: that they were willing to install a used part, but they couldn’t offer any guarantee on it and if it was defective I would be out the cost of labor. Here’s a link to the toyota dealer that I ordered my new brake actuator through (although there are a number of different toyota dealers that carry them. I just google searched “06 Prius brake actuator, and quite a few options come up.) * I would be sure to get one with a new resister included (most of the new ones do - this part installs inside the vehicle up above the e-brake pedal) - as the actuator and the resister are paired with each other, and you could run into issues if you replace one without the other. www.lithiatoyotaparts.com/oem-parts/toyota-2006-2009-toyota-prius-modulator-valve-4450047141?origin=pla&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgO2Q6P2agwMVyBitBh2mfwSEEAQYAyABEgIL3_D_BwE The part number on the new one I installed was: 44510-47051 (can be seen clearly in the video at 26:20), and it seemed this was the only brake actuator the dealer carries for that year and model. However… it does look like the part number on at least one of the bad eBay actuators I installed was slightly different: 44510-47050. (Can be seen at 17:07). Not sure whether or not that made a difference… and now I’m not 100% what the part number for the original one on my vehicle was. Also, do you have a scan tool to see if there are any ABS codes? There’s a trick to use a jump wire in the OBDII port of your car to reset the lights… if there are codes or issues with your actuator, they will just come right back on.. but might be worth a shot clearing them just to be sure? …or if you happen to live in Oregon I could help!
Going to Toyota dealer parts department, bring your vin#, they would know the correct part and print a page to you, no charge if you ask? Then you can decide? New or used. I would share an experience: only one key/one transponder, couldn't find it. Only chance to me? Was I've locked it inside the car?( Had unplugged the 12 volt battery to prevent it from draining while park for more than 2 weeks, does drain and make these 12 volt batteries go bad when parked too long)⁸. I called dealer, they said: if you bring the proof you own the car? We can make you a key. I did bring my registration on my name, and they made a physical key it is used just to open driver door /(not transponder) that fit perfectly $54 out the door in 2022, went to my car key worked to open door, got in, after connecting 12 volt battery and press car on, car started. Meaning, my transponder was inside, I found it between console and seat. Knowing this? Hope it helps someone . Point is, they made exact key based on just vin#. ( I didn't know they could do that) "Now, your brakes work fine but: issue to lights abs,VSC ,parking brake light on" Toyota could do a brake fluid replacement that could get your lights to go away. I do not think you have a faulty abs pump ask for price on that?, just because of the lights on, just that with a "scanner special function" could fix those lights. Side note, learn how to open trunk/hutch door from inside to get to 12 volt easier). Hope some of this help you or someone?
This has put me off getting one of these cars . Lots of videos on RUclips says how reliable Prius are and easy to maintain this is obviously not the case .
So it’s my understanding that this system is brake by wire with no physical connection between the brake pedal and the actuator; like in a conventional car with a master cylinder. So, pumping the pedal with the power disconnected is not doing anything…it only sends an electrical signal to the actuator telling it to activate…
Not sure why I was still able to bleed brakes with power disconnected then. Pressure was definitely building with pumping the pedal and releasing when the bleeder valve was opened
Was pressure building and releasing on all 4 wheels or just the fronts? I’m in the middle of doing this on a 2006 Highlander and procedure says to only bleed the front manually. I discovered this AFTER I posted my above reply. First problem I ran into is the plastic locking mechanism on the wiring pigtail to the actuator was so brittle in broke upon removal. It did seem to make good contact when I reinstalled it but I think I need to either clamp it somehow OR replace the entire pigtail connector. Not aware if that is even available from Toyota. So was the actuator bled when you bled the brakes manually?? Did you use an Alldata subscription for the procedure or another service or shop manual??
So it seems that only the rear brakes are electronically controlled by the actuator. There is a master cylinder which allows manual bleeding of the front brakes...my bad...hybrid repairs are a learning experience!!!@@ChristopherJeremiahCullen
Thank you so much for making this video. I have to take on this project with an ebay replacement. I hope I have better luck with a used one than you did. Anyway, I have been putting this off and your video is helping to motivate me to finally do it.
I'm part way through this job and this is the best video I've found. Thanks for taking the time to include all the little details like clip removal. 700000km on the car (in Canada) so this is either the end of life for this car, or a DIY job. What's different so far about mine is all the rust! You've kept yours looking great under the hood for a 2006!
Really glad to hear the video could help man. Best wishes on yours.
I think climate has a lot to do with it. This vehicle has lived its life in Oregon in the US - not a lot of snow, so not a lot of corrosion as a consequence of the salt that gets put on the roads to help with icy conditions.
Kudos to you, for not giving up on your self, I did the eBay for $200 no warranty, it worked up to no beep and no accumulator often activity, but VSC, brake light, stay on because not knowing how the bleeding procedure correctly, I tried with help but they give up too soon, 20 minutes. 04 prius 212k millage on mine.Then I used the push broom and empty plastic bottle to hold press on pedal, while I bleed brakes. With scanner like yours I was able to clear lights after I did finally seen a vídeo that explained from begin to end, and scanner use to complete job. One year later in my case but i was able to use it during that time. ( When scannner said place relay back in fuse box and do not open doors for 2 minutes! I crawled out trogh window 2 times, other time, trough back hatch I leave open. No help? I had to manage some how? : ). Thanks for detail, not knowing, does cost time and money, but the learning would not be taken away from you, and I have a scanner proven to be useful many times over already . Thanks for sharing. How not to spend too much. A constructive note: taking off wiper assembly makes it a much easier job adding a bit more time.
Glad the used parts worked for you at least for a year or so. Mine has something like 180k miles.. figure the new HV battery and brake actuator will outlive the vehicle. Might get some return on the investment by reselling them if so.
I had heard that about taking the wiper assembly off and had it in mind while doing the job, but I guess I didn’t feel like it was in my way at any point so wasn’t worth it to me.
FYI: for the step where you wait 2. Minutes without opening the door - I just left my door open the whole time and it wasn’t an issue. No need to crawl through the window (that must have been pretty awkward!). I think the point is that the brake actuator is activated by the door opening. So as long as you don’t close the door then reopen it, there shouldn’t be a problem.
Glad you found the video useful, and that all my adventures with this job could benefit others as well!
Man I decided to take on this job with a used one and when putting the last nut on the actuator mount, I broke it 😢 I’m currently letting it cure with JB weld praying to god this actuator is good. The reason I went with it, is because it’s the newer part number (same as yours in the video) so that tells me I got someone’s replacement. It’s from a 2008 so I have high hopes. I appreciate your video, say a prayer for me! 😂
What's the update on this?
@@SeanBaker it works! I’m currently on vacation and took the Prius :)
Which resistor you added there ?
Thanks for very detailed video. I have 2009 Prius. Bought used 6 months ago. Since I bought it, I was hearing abs pump running everytime I press and release brakes. However, brakes were working fine and no abs lights on dash. Recently I got abs light with red triangle and I lost brakes completely. Luckily I was withon my drive way so was not a issue.
I replaced abs actuator yesterday, bought a used one from car recycling shop. Replaced abs pump, bleed brakes using scanner, same like you did. Brakes are working fine again and no abs light. However, I still hear that abs pump running almost every 2nd time I press and release brake pedal. Wondering the new used abs pump recycling shop gave me is it faulty or is it that I did not properly bleed brakes ? Please help. Thank you.
@waqarqadeer5217, normal for pump abs to activate when pressed, when you open door does it too. No need to alarm for that. When it activates every 5 minutes or 10 minutes for not pressing brake pedal or opening door? Then, that would be signs your ABS pump is loosing pressure for no reason. Hope it helps. You could take the car to Toyota for engine oil change, then they check car for same/ no extra charge, less than $100. They will do visual inspection and tell you what they see wrong with it, if any, be sure to ask for check brake shoes when they rotate tires if you want to do that? That way you will know. If repairs are recommended? You do not have to do it? You take your time to decide when? And where? But yes, Toyota parts OEM are better to be used for warranty and for durability. They are worth the extra $. In my experience. Red triangle comes on if I go in reverse with door open. Doesn't mean car is broken or battery is bad!?. Just sharing, hope it helps.
Prior to doing this job I would check voltage levels to ensure you have that since there are connectors above the battery area that get corrode and cause issues to the module next to the battery which is the Capacitor bank that retains power for the brakes in event of power failure... Did you not have to program the new accumulator to the BCM/ECM through the dealer?
Didn’t do any sort of programming on the new brake actuator that was installed. Still working just fine for me to date. The dealer here was pretty unhelpful and seemed unwilling to touch anything unless they did the entire job of replacing the actuator themselves. Tried taking it to the dealer to have them do the computer assisted brake bleed after installing the first used actuator which I got on eBay, and they refused. I imagine their response would have been the same after installing the new actuator that I bought from Toyota.
My accumulator has been making noises for about a year now. I feel like it’s nearing my time to change the part out soon. No warning lights yet.
The biggest thing I learned from previous experience is to have the tool to bleed the brakes, if the ecm doesn't get the correct reading it will continue to apply too much pressure and you'll keep blowing out wheel cylinders. Other than that its my understanding that you need to program a new accumulator to the ECM through the dealer. I learned from other videos that if you just change the motor part to affect the repair programming isn't necessary.... Couple tips to help those with this condition.
Thank you for the vid. Great job. Chris why didn't you remove the wipers plate/shield it would make your life much easier.
That last brake bleed step with the fronts and opening the actuators. The one where you said bad directions and helf the pedal down. Did you have a hose on the screw? I read it as its releasing pressure and the hose will block it too much.
I'm considering doing this job myself. Can you tell me what model scan tool that is. Cheers
I used the xTool - bought off of Amazon. It seemed a little buggy though, there are probably better ones you could use
Jusy had this job done on my 09 Prius. I also got the part for $1,134 online, from an out of state dealer, cuz a local dealer just couldn't/wouldn't match it. They did install it though. No more annoying buzzing.
How much did the dealer charge you for installation and bleeding labor?
@@purozapopan101 $810 for labor and fluid. Every place quoted four hours, so the price would vary depending on where you got it done.
Remove cowel, i put marker caps over the brake lines to protect them and tied them back. I also put a latex glove over every plug pigtail.
I spent the money and got a snap on 10mm wrench.
So, on the step that you have for the actuator braking...
I have gotten to the 30 times pressing down to open solonoids, but after that is done, it says that the air bleeding has failed.
What can I do in that case?
I have already repeated the steps multiple times and can get to the next step in the procedures for installing the relays back in.
So, I didn't run the entire test as it would not let it proceed.
I am driving it after doing the manual brak bleed and the electronic bleed by plugging in the relays and bleeding the rear brakes.
So far, no issues besides the common one with the relay abs code.
The brake is like the day it rolled off the lot.
Sorry to be seeing this so late -
I believe I kept getting that error on my scan tool when the 12v battery was low.
It seems to take a lot of juice from the battery to run through the brake bleed - in fact mine discharged to a point where I couldn’t get it to recharge and I ended up needing to install a new one.. so if I didn’t mention it in the video , it’s a good idea to keep the 12v topped off, or even on a charger as you’re working your way through the bleed process.
@ChristopherJeremiahCullen
All good!
I appreciate you responding and asking questions!
So, that's an interesting point because I had a charger hooked up to it, but the power source was a Jumpstart inverter plug that didn't do so well to the point where the Jumpstarter turned itself off due to the watt overload.
So, now my hybrid battery states that it is low and the red triangle and check engine came on when it was very hot outside.
So, probably need a recharge and tested the cells and they were good.
In conclusion, the brakes still work on my Prius without doing that computer test for specifically the brake actuator, but instead did the regular bleed test.
No air in the brakes either, feels like driving off the lot.
Thank you for such a well organized and detailed video!!
This should be the standard for car repair videos.
Patience, performance, precision.
What about the status right now with the car.? How long did you drive after fixing this one.?
Still working fine for me without issues to date
How many miles you got on that... I think I have to go down this path soon but at only 130K miles! 2005
Yeah - mines up around 185,000. Evidently it’s a really common failure - Toyota even extended the warranty on that part where people could have it changed free up until 2017 I think
@@ChristopherJeremiahCullen saw a video how they fix these in India and reuse them... well unless it is an internal leak, but the motor itself is not too hard to repair, it is so sad that Toyota charges so much for this part,
First of all, congratulations on tacking such a diffucult issue. I am in the same situation you were in. We bought a used part from ebay the brakes work fine now but we still have the lights on. But ordering the part, installing it etc took about 2 months. He stalled us that long. He said he cant fix it and cant be arsed to buy a new one and install that. So I brought it to another shop and he says he will buy new but he doesnt know which one to buy because the numbers on the part need to match. But I found that a little weird because all the I looked into had different numbers. I have a 2006 prius as you do. Any chance you can englighten me as to how to buy the right part?
Hey there -
Thanks!
Sorry to hear you’re having some trouble with the mechanics getting yours fixed. For what it’s worth, one shop I brought mine to locally said the same thing: that they were willing to install a used part, but they couldn’t offer any guarantee on it and if it was defective I would be out the cost of labor.
Here’s a link to the toyota dealer that I ordered my new brake actuator through (although there are a number of different toyota dealers that carry them. I just google searched “06 Prius brake actuator, and quite a few options come up.)
* I would be sure to get one with a new resister included (most of the new ones do - this part installs inside the vehicle up above the e-brake pedal) - as the actuator and the resister are paired with each other, and you could run into issues if you replace one without the other.
www.lithiatoyotaparts.com/oem-parts/toyota-2006-2009-toyota-prius-modulator-valve-4450047141?origin=pla&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgO2Q6P2agwMVyBitBh2mfwSEEAQYAyABEgIL3_D_BwE
The part number on the new one I installed was: 44510-47051 (can be seen clearly in the video at 26:20), and it seemed this was the only brake actuator the dealer carries for that year and model. However… it does look like the part number on at least one of the bad eBay actuators I installed was slightly different: 44510-47050. (Can be seen at 17:07). Not sure whether or not that made a difference… and now I’m not 100% what the part number for the original one on my vehicle was.
Also, do you have a scan tool to see if there are any ABS codes? There’s a trick to use a jump wire in the OBDII port of your car to reset the lights… if there are codes or issues with your actuator, they will just come right back on.. but might be worth a shot clearing them just to be sure?
…or if you happen to live in Oregon I could help!
Going to Toyota dealer parts department, bring your vin#, they would know the correct part and print a page to you, no charge if you ask? Then you can decide? New or used. I would share an experience: only one key/one transponder, couldn't find it. Only chance to me? Was I've locked it inside the car?( Had unplugged the 12 volt battery to prevent it from draining while park for more than 2 weeks, does drain and make these 12 volt batteries go bad when parked too long)⁸. I called dealer, they said: if you bring the proof you own the car? We can make you a key. I did bring my registration on my name, and they made a physical key it is used just to open driver door /(not transponder) that fit perfectly $54 out the door in 2022, went to my car key worked to open door, got in, after connecting 12 volt battery and press car on, car started. Meaning, my transponder was inside, I found it between console and seat. Knowing this? Hope it helps someone . Point is, they made exact key based on just vin#. ( I didn't know they could do that) "Now, your brakes work fine but: issue to lights abs,VSC ,parking brake light on" Toyota could do a brake fluid replacement that could get your lights to go away. I do not think you have a faulty abs pump ask for price on that?, just because of the lights on, just that with a "scanner special function" could fix those lights. Side note, learn how to open trunk/hutch door from inside to get to 12 volt easier). Hope some of this help you or someone?
This has put me off getting one of these cars . Lots of videos on RUclips says how reliable Prius are and easy to maintain this is obviously not the case .
Yeah, it seems like this job and the hybrid battery going out are the two major ones that people run into
So it’s my understanding that this system is brake by wire with no physical connection between the brake pedal and the actuator; like in a conventional car with a master cylinder. So, pumping the pedal with the power disconnected is not doing anything…it only sends an electrical signal to the actuator telling it to activate…
Not sure why I was still able to bleed brakes with power disconnected then. Pressure was definitely building with pumping the pedal and releasing when the bleeder valve was opened
Was pressure building and releasing on all 4 wheels or just the fronts? I’m in the middle of doing this on a 2006 Highlander and procedure says to only bleed the front manually. I discovered this AFTER I posted my above reply. First problem I ran into is the plastic locking mechanism on the wiring pigtail to the actuator was so brittle in broke upon removal. It did seem to make good contact when I reinstalled it but I think I need to either clamp it somehow OR replace the entire pigtail connector. Not aware if that is even available from Toyota.
So was the actuator bled when you bled the brakes manually?? Did you use an Alldata subscription for the procedure or another service or shop manual??
So it seems that only the rear brakes are electronically controlled by the actuator. There is a master cylinder which allows manual bleeding of the front brakes...my bad...hybrid repairs are a learning experience!!!@@ChristopherJeremiahCullen
It would be so much easier if you take the windshield wipers and tray off
Am having code c1252. C1256,