Dean O, You're right. It is a big saw. 42 inches of spring steel. But with one tooth per inch it has only 42 teeth to sharpen. That's a lot less than the 26 inch long Disston #12 with ten teeth per inch.
nice! thanks for following up on your crosscut promise! that's exactly why I subscribe: good information presented logically with a dash of humor. jim.
Translated comment. "Interesting hand saws. Haven't seen these. Thanks!" I got interested in them when I bought a two man crosscut. It is hard to use a two man with just one man. The one man is much easier. 😀😎 Translated reply. " Я заинтересовался ими, когда купил поперечную распиловку на двоих. Трудно использовать двух мужчин с одним человеком. Одному мужчине намного легче."
У меня был один знакомый мужчина 1910года рождения, он один справлялся двухручной пилой, у нас её называют поперечной или шутя Дружба -2, потому что была пила для механического пиления, ее называли Дружба, - 4.Этот мужчина, при валке дерева на уровне реза, забивал в землю колышек. Как-то так.
Greetings Mr. Sneelock! I got me a genuine old "H. DIsston&Sons" one man crosscut saw which I sanded most of the rust off of. I got me a genuine Shurley Dietrich saw jointer; (a short one not a long one but that's good enough for me). Plus I got me a genuine old Dunlap Hand Saw Set with a plier-type handle. The saw looks like it hasn't been used very much. It is straight as an arrow with no distortions whatsoever. I ran the jointer over the teeth and it seems to have been already preset to the right depth because nearly all the raker teeth stick out by less than a thousandth of an inch or are perfectly level with the inset for the file. Which is great because I don't have a feeler gauge and I'm not sure what the right setting should be. I'm all ready to joint it, sharpen the teeth and set the teeth. The Dunlap pliers even came with instructions that has a list of kinds of files to use on different saws... but it stops at 5 teeth per inch and this saw is 3 teeth per inch so I'm not sure what are the right files I should use to sharpen it with. Could you please tell me what kind of files I should get? Thank you very much. PS: I already put thumbs up on your videos. The other thing is setting the teeth. The saw as I said looks in fine shape barely used and the set of the teeth look fine as they are. How do I use this tool? It has 2 screws for adjustment but I don't know how to use them. Or what the proper offset of the cutting teeth should be. There are a bunch of numbers on a metal wheel.which are confusing because they don't run in order of size: 10-12-14-16--15-13-11-9-7-5-4-6-8. Any information will be very much appreciated! Thanks again. Yours: Indrek Pringi
Indrekk Pringi Thanks for watching. That will be a great saw. One of the important things to remember is to not take off too much metal with each sharpening. Only a stroke or two per tooth each time. If one tooth looks like it needs another stroke then wait until the whole saw has been hit with two strokes before going back. If more than 3 or 4 teeth need another stroke then go back over the whole saw. If you try to hit one tooth more than the rest it just gets too short to cut. Later in the series I show the file and how I use it. You can find it in this playlist. ruclips.net/p/PLXlq5qGw1pep8oomLzRZsJEArDFDSdBmj When you get it all sharp and shiny show us how it works.
Old Sneelock's Workshop I don't have a video camera so I can't show you, but I will tell you I already sharpened the saw. Next week I'm going up north to cut down some dead trees with it. In 3 or 4 weeks I'll be back and let you know how the saw performs. It's a bucking saw not a felling saw, and since I'm not using it on green wood I don't need to swage the rakers. The steel is incredibly flexible and springy. I tried the Dunlap pliers on it and the steel bounced back to its original position, so I did it again with a shorter adjustment and it still barely had any effect. I might have to use pliers or a vise grip to offset the cutting teeth but I won't know if I have to bend the cutting teeth until I actually start cutting some wood with it because as far as I can see with the naked eye the cutters have already been offset. What I really need to know are the tolerances for a 1-man Disston bucksaw. How much should the offset of the cutting teeth be? That is crucial and I don't know how much I should bend the cutters. If I bend them too much or not enough it will ruin the cutting action. If you can tell me how much the cutting teeth need to be offset I will be very appreciative. Do I need a spider to measure the offset?
Indrekk Pringi The "set" is there just to allow the slicing crosscut teeth to make a mark wide enough to allow the blade to clear the hole. I usually set the teeth on a crosscut .010 to .015 thousands of an inch. That way the blade will cut .020 to .030 thousands of an inch wider than the thickness of the blade. On a panel saw I set them .005". The larger the set the more wood is removed and the more work needed to push or pull the saw through the wood. The spider is a simple device to measure the set and though it is not necessary it is very handy. Any other device I can think of will be more complicated.
Old Sneelock's Workshop Gotcha. Spider, set .010 to ,015 of an inch in both sides. Good to know. Thanks! What I'm amazed at is how soft the steel is compared to a modern saw: it's almost like filing butter.
The steel is a lot softer than the induction hardened throw aways from the Big Box Borg. The saw was meant to be sharpened. The older saws are spring tempered so they will flex and return. Some of the old saws get brittle teeth and the tooth can snap off if you get to aggressive trying to set the teeth. Have you watched the other videos in the playlist? I talk about the set and setting tools in them.
GREAT VIDEO LOVE THESE OLD CROSSCUT SAWS
Dean O, You're right. It is a big saw. 42 inches of spring steel. But with one tooth per inch it has only 42 teeth to sharpen. That's a lot less than the 26 inch long Disston #12 with ten teeth per inch.
nice! thanks for following up on your crosscut promise! that's exactly why I subscribe: good information presented logically with a dash of humor.
jim.
Glad I was able to finally get back to saw sharpening. I'm also glad my faint attempts at humor are appreciated. :-)
+Old Sneelock's Workshop 2nd that!
Интересные ручные пилы. Такие не видел. Спасибо!
Translated comment. "Interesting hand saws. Haven't seen these. Thanks!"
I got interested in them when I bought a two man crosscut. It is hard to use a two man with just one man. The one man is much easier. 😀😎
Translated reply. " Я заинтересовался ими, когда купил поперечную распиловку на двоих. Трудно использовать двух мужчин с одним человеком. Одному мужчине намного легче."
У меня был один знакомый мужчина 1910года рождения, он один справлялся двухручной пилой, у нас её называют поперечной или шутя Дружба -2, потому что была пила для механического пиления, ее называли Дружба, - 4.Этот мужчина, при валке дерева на уровне реза, забивал в землю колышек. Как-то так.
😁😎
That was awesome information
Greetings Mr. Sneelock!
I got me a genuine old "H. DIsston&Sons" one man crosscut saw which I sanded most of the rust off of.
I got me a genuine Shurley Dietrich saw jointer; (a short one not a long one but that's good enough for me).
Plus I got me a genuine old Dunlap Hand Saw Set with a plier-type handle.
The saw looks like it hasn't been used very much. It is straight as an arrow with no distortions whatsoever. I ran the jointer over the teeth and it seems to have been already preset to the right depth because nearly all the raker teeth stick out by less than a thousandth of an inch or are perfectly level with the inset for the file. Which is great because I don't have a feeler gauge and I'm not sure what the right setting should be.
I'm all ready to joint it, sharpen the teeth and set the teeth. The Dunlap pliers even came with instructions that has a list of kinds of files to use on different saws... but it stops at 5 teeth per inch and this saw is 3 teeth per inch so I'm not sure what are the right files I should use to sharpen it with.
Could you please tell me what kind of files I should get? Thank you very much.
PS: I already put thumbs up on your videos.
The other thing is setting the teeth. The saw as I said looks in fine shape barely used and the set of the teeth look fine as they are. How do I use this tool? It has 2 screws for adjustment but I don't know how to use them. Or what the proper offset of the cutting teeth should be. There are a bunch of numbers on a metal wheel.which are confusing because they don't run in order of size:
10-12-14-16--15-13-11-9-7-5-4-6-8.
Any information will be very much appreciated! Thanks again.
Yours: Indrek Pringi
Indrekk Pringi Thanks for watching. That will be a great saw. One of the important things to remember is to not take off too much metal with each sharpening. Only a stroke or two per tooth each time. If one tooth looks like it needs another stroke then wait until the whole saw has been hit with two strokes before going back. If more than 3 or 4 teeth need another stroke then go back over the whole saw. If you try to hit one tooth more than the rest it just gets too short to cut.
Later in the series I show the file and how I use it. You can find it in this playlist. ruclips.net/p/PLXlq5qGw1pep8oomLzRZsJEArDFDSdBmj
When you get it all sharp and shiny show us how it works.
Old Sneelock's Workshop
I don't have a video camera so I can't show you, but I will tell you I already sharpened the saw. Next week I'm going up north to cut down some dead trees with it. In 3 or 4 weeks I'll be back and let you know how the saw performs.
It's a bucking saw not a felling saw, and since I'm not using it on green wood I don't need to swage the rakers. The steel is incredibly flexible and springy. I tried the Dunlap pliers on it and the steel bounced back to its original position, so I did it again with a shorter adjustment and it still barely had any effect. I might have to use pliers or a vise grip to offset the cutting teeth but I won't know if I have to bend the cutting teeth until I actually start cutting some wood with it because as far as I can see with the naked eye the cutters have already been offset.
What I really need to know are the tolerances for a 1-man Disston bucksaw. How much should the offset of the cutting teeth be? That is crucial and I don't know how much I should bend the cutters. If I bend them too much or not enough it will ruin the cutting action. If you can tell me how much the cutting teeth need to be offset I will be very appreciative. Do I need a spider to measure the offset?
Indrekk Pringi The "set" is there just to allow the slicing crosscut teeth to make a mark wide enough to allow the blade to clear the hole. I usually set the teeth on a crosscut .010 to .015 thousands of an inch. That way the blade will cut .020 to .030 thousands of an inch wider than the thickness of the blade. On a panel saw I set them .005". The larger the set the more wood is removed and the more work needed to push or pull the saw through the wood.
The spider is a simple device to measure the set and though it is not necessary it is very handy. Any other device I can think of will be more complicated.
Old Sneelock's Workshop
Gotcha.
Spider, set .010 to ,015 of an inch in both sides. Good to know. Thanks!
What I'm amazed at is how soft the steel is compared to a modern saw: it's almost like filing butter.
The steel is a lot softer than the induction hardened throw aways from the Big Box Borg.
The saw was meant to be sharpened.
The older saws are spring tempered so they will flex and return. Some of the old saws get brittle teeth and the tooth can snap off if you get to aggressive trying to set the teeth.
Have you watched the other videos in the playlist? I talk about the set and setting tools in them.
That's a lot of saw to sharpen