Building a Huge Vibratory Tumbler: My Quest for the Perfect Parts Deburrer
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- Опубликовано: 5 окт 2024
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nice work! super handy project; I've alway wanted to build one.
Thanks! You inspired me to get a welder! This is a simple project. Especially compared to your Maho.
I love that Tony watches your videos too. A couple of my favorite makers right here. I appreciate all the work you guys put into sharing your projects with us! Thank you!
OMG fancy that! Running into YOU here!!!
I was going to leave a snide comment about the welds...but.....this is...this is...
Keep on welding, Max!
I’m building one this week it next
Are u interested in selling one
The container won't last long, you need rubber sheet Lining on the inner wall of the container. the same in sand blasting Chamber. 👍👍🙏
Almost everyone else wouldn’t care about fingerprints or burred edges. But that why we have Germans! I love Germans!!!
I'm German, so I thank you for your comment
5:24 This is a German way of doing things. Already in 1984, they knew that they needed to print "subscribe to Max Maker"-long before RUclips and long before even WWW.
Wow :)
A handy hint for welding aluminium is to really sand or wire brush the surface to remove the oxide skin. This will really make it easier.
The oxide skin melts at a higher temperature than the aluminium below it.
Thanks for the tip! I also had to grind off the annodising. Nothing sticks on that.
When you wire brush it, use a stainless brush (sold for this purpose) as normal steel brushes will contaminate the brushed area with iron, which you don't want.
Very nice Max. I admire you're persistence, and the "do it your self", "go for it" approach to this project!
The commercially made ones have a cast urethane tub which helps keep the barrel from wearing through, we ran one for over a decade and the tub only lost 1/4 of it's thickness.. Your tumbler will probably work ok, only point of concern is the wiggling in the middle, it's minor but it's adding stresses to the welds which will normally cause stress cracks to form.. Not really a big deal, just add a bead of weld.. Once you get your first pin hole in the middle replace the drum because it has worn thin.
Hey that’s exactly my experience. I since added a 4mm rubber liner to the inside. That stops rust, protects the steel and dampens the noise considerably.
The middle of the opening gets clamped together with a quick clamp during operation. That firms it up a lot.
I also reinforced the counterweight mounting point to spread out the force over a larger area. Overall I learned a lot. One thing is to make the tub stiffer.
I adore how jank this is. It speaks to a determination to get things done
my experience?
they need to be lined, usually heavy rubber. as soon as theres a hole, its done for.
the one i played with, i didnt like its nylon(?) drain grate. so i grabbed some perfo steel, made a new one.
a week later, the nylon grate was back in place. the steel had basically vanished.
always had a stray bit of steel and carbide floating in it, slowly watching them erode over the years...
the most interesting part on the "tub" type was to play with the balance weights on the vibrator. 90 and 180 degree offsets would produce nice figure of 8 swirling motions in the media. good for polishing. whereas weights with 0 offset would be better for bashing off rust and flux, as the media just thumps up and down.
ours got a hole. from then on, every two weeks or so, patching it up as the case wore through.
i wanted to try the 2pak stuff they line utility beds with...rhinocoat or something.. salesman was all keen to give it a go too... yeah. got over-ridden.
anyway. regards the drain mostly... sump it, a bit of 4" channel or something welded to the base, with a good round inlet to the tub. use a plastic grate... piece of nylon with holes drilled in. make it easily removable. dont attach taps to it... wide bore flexible hose.
they shake taps apart, they destroy any "hard" fittings, and they block up with ceramic debris...
interesting to know how this one held up after two years :)
Well Max, I must hand it to you for your ability to persist and your Problem solving. Very good, excellent actually.
I believe you are going to find your Parts getting absolutely filthy, with all of the Grime, really really stuck to your Parts if you continue to use the Tumbler really Dry like you are doing. You need to have a bunch of Water in there, and add some Detergent to keep your Parts Clean, and to keep the Grime that will be generated, suspended in the Water, instead of building up on your Parts and I’m sure on your Tank as well. I know this from my own bad experience. Distilled Water would be best, as it is completely “Naked” as I put it. (It has nothing in it at all, so it will accept other things into it, Cleaning your Parts very good.) You will need to throw out your Water occasionally, and start with Fresh. Be advised, that probably according to the EPA, the Water will be considered Toxic by then, because of the Aluminum and Stainless Steel, and whatever other Metals you are breaking down into Microscopic Particles and putting into Solution in the Water. You could drain it into a large Area Pan, and let the Water Evaporate, and just start collecting the Crap in a Can or Jar. If you don’t want to use Distilled Water, you will likely have to change it more often. Try using a Product Called Lemi-Shine as well. I believe you will find it at the Dish Washing Detergent Section of the Supermarkets. I would probably try Cascade Dish Washing Detergent to keep your Parts Clean.
As a Welder.... and a Precision R&D Machinist, I cringed at your Welding. I still applaud your efforts, but it would be much better to Practice more than 1 Hr. before Welding what I call “Bird Crap” Welds on something that is going to be shaking it’s entire Life!! You would have been much better off MIG Welding as a Beginner. It takes far less skill than TIG Welding and Stick Welding. In one of your Videos of you Welding, it showed you Stick Welding Downhill, and immediately Welding Uphill, right over what you just Welded on. I don’t think you realize that you are actually supposed to Chip the Glasslike Slag off of a Weld, before you attempt to Weld over or onto, or to continue on from an existing Weld.
I am saying this with Kindness in my Heart: You would do very well to spend a lot of Time on RUclips at least, watching “The Basics Of Aluminum TIG Welding” and “The Basics of Stick Welding”. My Goodness, you bought a Machine with the Modern abilities to Configure the very Wave Form of the Welding Current, Buy you don’t really understand the Basics. With all of my many Years of Experience in the Past, as I am considering Purchasing Machines similar to yours, I have been Educating myself about just where the Technology is Today, so I have been watching many Videos myself, to get up to speed with Today’s Advancements.
You will not further your Skills to any significant abilities, without the Basic Foundations first, that are required, in order to build upon those very SOUND PRINCIPLES OF WELDING FIRST. 🤷🏻♂️ Get your Scrap Metal, in similar Thickness to what you intend on Welding, and in the same Position you plan on Welding, (which should all be FLAT OR 90 DEGREE FILLET WELDS for you.) and Practice Practice Practice, until you are able to make Welds that are 4 times better than you are currently making. The Fact that you have run the Tumbler Several 8 Hr. Shifts, isn’t Proof that it is going hold up unfortunately. 🤷🏻♂️
Please don’t forget all of the POSITIVE PRAISE I GAVE YOU!! 🙌
You are a real Go Getter, and that is what is helping you to be the Businessman that you are! 😉
👍👍👍👍👍
I APPLAUD YOU!! 👏👏👏👏👏
Welding is one of those crafts that takes time and materials to become efficient. And skill to master.
You definitely have the abilities to be a good welder.
My first recommendation is to get rid of that stick and get a wire feed.
And now its time for my next project... a vibration tumbler,
Thanks for the insight and what not notes
Your persistence and ingenuity on this project was inspirational! Great work!
D.J. Mankiewicz Thanks for watching!
you can weld some tubes as the main-frame and then fill concrete inside the tubes to increase their weight, so the energy are not wasted to vibrate the frame.
Once upon a time i was doing turbine overhaul. The trick that works wonders for taking press fits apart that dont want to come apart is differential heating and cooling. Essentially you make a tray that holds a cooling material, like dry ice or liquid nitrogen to shrink the inner part, and then use a torch or induction heater on the outer part to expand it. Ours a was a controlled process with inducation heat and liquid nitrogen and with temperature checks before we pulled to eliminate any galling, but in this case, id be using a torch, dry ice, and already have the joint in tension.
The less than “perfect” welding is what motivates beginners. Nice video
FunScientifix I totally got hooked on welding. Its so satisfying! Adding a screw is just labour, but when I weld something, every seam is a new challenge.
Max Maker I can see why welding can be so satisfying. I was on the fence about getting a welder, now I’m gonna get one cuz of this project. ☺️😃
FunScientifix This old tony motivated me. I went for TIG so I can weld steel and aluminium. It can also weld stick, so its very versatile.
Great build. I really need one for plasma cut parts. You have inspired me; mine will be about 1/4 this size.
Good luck!
That forklift does look really great. As does that universal joint, interesting the instructions say to subscribe to Max Maker.
"Let's hope for good vibrations" - You might talk to Mark Maker about that.
Great design. Your bearing may fail prematurely tho. When you false arced on the shaft the current ran through the bearing and most likely damaged them. Just something to watch out for in the future. Nice build!
This is the most batshit build I’ve ever seen on RUclips and I love it so much. 🎉
Max Maker's monstrous mangled metal marvel. Good stuff, thanks for the video. Cheers, David
Great title!
Cool project and I very like it. May I suggest that after you 3dprint parts, make a mold out of molding silicone and cast the parts out of hi-quality (non brittle) polyurethane resin. They will be much durable and easily machinable.
That works great for intricate parts like gears, but in this case I only printed things to save some time. I could make most brackets out of plywood. It just requires more sawing and drilling.
@@MaxMakerChannel thank you for the reply, I think your channel deserves more visitors and views. I'll share :)
Thank you!
Just a little sad that you welded those profiles instead of regular, cheaper, square ones. I could have used those :P But I understand why and it turned out great!
tm i hear that often. I buy so much of this stuff that It is cheaper to use profiles instead of getting a few meters of box section. If you need cheap profiles I recommend buying a used production cell and disassembling it. Lots of good parts to get that way.
Cool build! We posted this video on our homemade tools forum this week :)
Cool!
I hear you say temporarily a thousand times, I guess it's still running the same way. Great job. Should build one myself.
Hey, it worked fine until the last day. I recently build a new one though with a integrated motor, a steel frame and a stainless tub that is much stiffer as well. Overall the shape is completeley the same though.
Interesting. Nice to see the evolutionary process.
Man this is so exciting!!!! Thanks for the inspiration and trial & error!!!!
Aus Itemprofilen kann man so viel bauen. Poliertrommel, Regale, Fertigungsstraßen, Autos, Häuser, Kinder. Einfach alles. Das Wunderprodukt schlechthin
Tomekgv Ist schon gut, aber insgesamt bin ich kein risen Fan davon. Die Nuten nutze ich so gut wie nie. Nur die Gewinde in den Enden.
@@MaxMakerChannel Auf Verpackungsanlagen oder Förderbändern sind die Teile ein Segen. Die Anlage ist dadurch so variabel gestaltbar und wenn eine Anlage nicht mehr gebraucht wird, kann man die Neue mit alten Komponenten bauen. Ist schon was feines. Aber ja, jeder hat halt sein eigenes Anwendungsgebiet. Metallbauer können damit auch wenig anfangen. Die können alle Schweißen, die brauchen sowas halt nicht. Aber trotzdem cooles Projekt!
Ach cool. Verpackungsanlagen für was?
@@MaxMakerChannel Für Medikamente z.B. Da man mit den Profilen so flexibel ist, kann man verschiedene Abmaße formen. Die kommen erstmal auf ein Rollenband und werden danach von pneumatischen Zylindern gefaltet. Durch diese Modularität kann man z.B. zusätzliche Zylinder Montieren bzw. bei nicht Gebrauch demontieren. Saugnäpfe, Greifarme etc. Es gibt so gut wie keine Industriefirma die nicht mind. ein Itemprofil in ihrer Anlage verbaut hat, würde ich jetzt mal so sagen. Bei den ganzen Automobilherstellern bestehen die ganzen Produktionsanlagen aus den Profilen, kannst dir ja mal Videos dazu angucken.
If your happy that's all that matters keep the positivity flowing looking good from a British Engineer 👌 😉
edit gusseted mounts would help when not quite best welds just for a tip reinforce when unsure if strong enough welds etc can't go wrong aswell as soft /hard bushings can help
Woow. thank you for sharing! It works marvelously
Welding just takes practice- the more you do, the better you become- good effort for your first attempt, and the best bit is ... it works fine!
“Huge motor” hahahaha…… you’d fall out then if you saw the 15 Hp 3 phase industrial motor powering mine.
Nice work and what a cute lil lathe. Awe!
The idea with the shielded cable is shielding for electromagnetic interference, you would need a cable gland designed for EMC, not a plastic one.
Very nice project thanks for taking us through it with you 👍😊
Thanks for watching!!!
Aluminium is prone to stress concentrations which may cause your welds to break, I reckon you would be better off with a bit of cheap steel angle or box section, it's also cheaper.
Use a plastic barrel for the trough if you can and it will be less susceptible to abrasion and corrosion which could pollute/contaminate the process.
A simple piece of rubber heater hose should make an accepable flexible drive coupling and eliminate the need for a great many of those bearings.
Overall it looks overly complex but thanks all the same for showing us the the video.
Might be a stupid question but can you polish metal using a tumbler? I guess using very fine sand?
You can! There are a ton of materials, even some that give a mirror surface.
@@MaxMakerChannel Thanks!
Well done!
Nice Set up!!
You only need to shield the motor cable from a VFD to motor if the cable is very long.
I went to school for welding. So those welds hurt to see but at the same time I have never done aluminium as weird as that is. They dont teach that at the school I went to. They dont have to be pretty as long as they work but they looked a little cold.
I turned a escentric clamping weight x2 out of some 4' Dia 1018 with 4 set screws.
Hammer! Hier wäre die Schlauch-Wellenverbindungsmethode aus dem Müll-Zug-Video ziemlich cool als zusätzliche Entkopplung, anstatt dem 3D gedruckten coupler zwischen Motor und der DDR-Welle. Edit: hab natürlich zu frühzeitig geschrieben. Die Riemen enkoppeln sicher auch ganz gut.
Well doen. I would put a rubber sheet on the insid, where the grindingstones are contackting. Otherwise i gusse the box will grind throu over time wher the "action" is going on. Or replaceable wearpannels... idnk
First I tried rubber with contact adhesive, but that BBC didn’t hold up. On the second try I used truckbed liner. That worked for about a year. Next I will screw rubber to the tub.
Wouldn't loctite potentially increase the resistance of the connection (depending on where it got wicked in)?
Great project and great video! 😊
As an electrician, I have to point out that soldering has no place in live wiring. It can melt very easily and break the connection. I know this is just the shield but still, bad practice begets bad practice. Always use mechanical joints.
I learned from that!
Great Video
Thanks for shareing
Great video my friend, can I use this machine to remove rust from bolts, nuts and small pieces?
Yes sure. Easier is vinegar.
just a little top if you ever 3D PRINT ANYTHING THAT YOU WOULD NEED TO BE RIGID YOU SHOULD USE PETG (caps were a mistake)
Thanks Max, great vid. BTW why did you buy "proper" abrasive media (so expensive), why not granite chips like before?
Hey, if I filled that tub with grannite it would probably take 300kg of that stuff. Instead I used plastic abbrasive to reduce the load on all the parts involved.
Awsome job bro
Is Uni-Strut available in EU? I think you would like that much better than T-slot for projects like this
Nice job. If yoy use an ecentric disk to connect for rotation all the thinks could be more easy! Think the old (steam moving) trains and basically their weels ....
Oh you mean instead of the v-belts on the left? Thats a really cool idea!
My only critique would be.. I would secure the weight a little if not completely more rigid on the shaft
I changed it since then. The weight is bolted on with 4 bolts and then there is a climbing rope wrapped about the weight and the shaft. So even if the bolts fail, the weight would be held by the climbing rope. If all of that fails there is now a polycabonate housing around the weight.
What are the pros and cons, is it able to handle this much mass
What about cross contamination? do your parts rust? Because if you do stainless in non stainless vessel you have to cross contaminate, because the steel does tumble too, solution is probably rubber coating, i highly recommend using 3M spray adhesive (high strength) and gluing rubber sheets over your vessel because it will wear out.
I would like some kind of lining. At the moment the tub rusts. Can you recommend a 3m glue? It would be good to line the entire surface to avoid rust all together.
@@MaxMakerChannel Just look up "3M spray adhesives" on RUclips and find your solution. I use 77 for sandpaper on my disc sander. Your choice is the 3M 80 for rubber and vinyl. I highly recommend their products, they are more expensive than anything else on the market, but its worth it and actually mine 77 is holding up really well and its almost full even if i used it on more than 50 sheets of sandpaper. Good luck and Im waiting for an update. Also one thing, I think that the motor separate from the tank is not worth the work, look up on vibratory annealing, they use around 3 - 7kw motors and vibrate from 1ton to 10ton easily. The bearings your size withstand more than you would probably generate. Just crank up the speed and lower the weight of imbalance, you are looking for vibration, not shakiness. Maybe it would be good to revisit this project ;) Good luck and i will try to share my take on building tumbler.
Thanks. I always get 3M when I can. Its always good quality. The amplitude vs frequency is an interesting subject. I maxed out the frequency at the moment and suspect that I could add more weight. But first I want to enclose the weight for safety.
@@MaxMakerChannel well i think it depends on design, springs, rpm and the weight of the counterbalance x amount of media, for that i would take industrial design from someone who made one and just copy the specifications, but we are dealing with such nuances that its not really the issue it seems to work good so the only part that bugs me is rust and the construction, lets be honest, its really monster for that bosch extrusion :D
Haha. It totally is! Had so get rid of scrap extrusions and didn’t want to invest more mobey on it. Ill probably coat it with an epoxy paint and then glue thin rubber to that.
All in all a very cool project, however I'm really heartbroken you welded some pieces to V-slot profiles. Probably would've saved you a great deal of welding if you used T-slot nuts. Either way, keep it up, would love to see you make more tools like that!
I used to use those T-Slot connections for a product that I am selling. However I didn´t like them and phased them out. They are incredibly fiddly to install and they always lack racking stiffness with these small profiles. I guess that is why they use 60x60 profiles in bigger machines. Making diagonals is difficult and the hardware is very expensive.
This was kinda the prototype version and now I had a new tumbler built from 40x80mm Steel tubing and a stainless steel tub with lots of webbing. The motor is all enclosed and there is no more mechanical linkage. You can check out my Instagram feed for Pictures.
maybe i should get a welder and just try ... but i want the one with just the gun, seems like a nifty solution
Get a welder!
How do you remove the parts from the tumbler? If you put a bunch of small parts in, how would you find them all?
If you only have 10 parts they are hard to find. If there are hundreds you keep going through it. A sieving mechanism would be nice.
I would consider adding a lid of some kind maybe? Seems like it could start kicking off a lot of dust after a few parts.
Yeah ultimately you need to water everything while it runs and to clean the parts as well.
The "SH"-letter, children!
ShIngineering
ShWelding
:D
How are you Max, what's the size of your tumbler, and how much media the green triangles did you just pour in
Its about 400l and 150kg of media.
@@MaxMakerChannel thank you so much now I know how much to buy
If the welds for the bearings break later I would just bolt them through the tub as added security.
But the tub needs to be watertight!
ow man, thats good . 11:22
Very nice work will u sell one
I am actually in the process of making another one but now professionaly welded by a steel fabricator. Its almost done and much more sturdy. The tub has a ton of bracing and is stainless. The tubes are 40x80mm steel. Instead of 20x40mm Aluminium. It has strong 200mm wheels. The motor is all integrated into one unit now. The price would be roughly €11,000 if you would like to buy one.
Hello there, is there any update? I want to make this one
Nice ToT style "subscribe" slipped in there..... ;)
hi
you use silicon carbide for polishing??
whats this material??
and how much this material??
I don’t know whats inside. It was 1200€ for 150kg.
Tell me about that Manual forklift
Ganz großes Kino. Aber ich sehe nicht ein einzigen Aufkleber von Werkzeug Mania.
Timon Hab keinen.
what is in the bag that you use for polishing ?
Its a polymer mixed with sanding grit.
Hi Max! How loud would you say this machine is? I'm looking at building my own too. But considering trying to get some sound dampening solutions to it.
Its incredibly loud. There is no question about it. But you could build a fully insulated Box around it.
@@MaxMakerChannel Thanks for the answer :D Do you know what you run RPM wise on the output shaft?
1700
What is the name of the stone you use?
Wouldn't pneumatic vibrators work better
How would that look like?
@@MaxMakerChannel just Google pneumatic industrial vibrator and you'll see many different options you can even get them on Amazon they're cheap lightweight run off air. No need for heavy weights large motor or linkages Justin vibrator Pneumatic Air Lines controller and their compressor check out AVE he talk about them on his channel
Great job ! What is the media you are using ?
Thanks. Its A polymer based medium grit from Avatec in Germany. Send them my greetings!
Try an error, ah? Young man. You make something, although there is a margin to improve, it works and you still have two eyes and ten fingers, hey, ultimate goal achieve!
Now we can talk about improvements, at first when you pull out the aluminum intrusion, i thought you are going with screws, then you weld it, everybody knows that aluminum is difficult to weld if you don't have the right tools and setting on your machine, you can use angle iron instead to make that box frame, it is a lot cheaper and more suitable to weld. You can save may be a 100 euro there, then it is the gear, car scrap yard do have stock pile of gears and with a couple of six pack and some reasonable price, you can get some pretty good fit gears and future relation, which you may need in the future when you make some other machines. Yes, not ebay, not ali, you don't need to wait a month for shipping, those metal parts sell on internet, guess where they come from? If you are lucky, you can buy hugh chunk of pretty good metal stock for your next project if you know the right person in those place.
Thank you. I followed that cheap strategy for a long time, but now it doesn’t work anymore. I have more work on my schedule than I can complete. So spending two hours to get parts from the scrapyard and making them fit ends up costing me more than just buying them. Apart for the U-joint which was a great find. The extrusions are very cheap for me because I buy them in bulk for a good price. If I bought any other tube I would end up paying more. These were the last of my profile scraps and next up I would also get steel tubes for welding.
How is this Holding up after close to a year?
Very good. It works fine. I only had two welds that cracked but I repaired them. My welding was just a bit bad. Also I only use it two days a month. If I did it again I would use a vibratory motor where all is internal. They exist, but I didn’t know back then what size I would need. I would also make the frame out of 40x80 steel.
Great effort, but you're going about this the wrong way. You don't need a shaft with counter weight. Only a pulley or disc mounted to the motor shaft with an offset shaft and crank arm. The small offset shaft should be close to the motor shaft so the vibrate frequency is high. The crank arm should have bearings on both ends (at the motor and connected to the tub. hth.
Do you have a drawing of that? I don’t quite understand, but it sounds interesting!
Aluminum is one of the hardest metals to weld. 😢
What media did you use? Do you have a name or part number?
Neither unfortunately.
Won’t the tub be penetrated due to constant wear ?
Yes over time. However I coated the tub with truckbed liner and it held up for about a year so far.
You should order a vibratory finishing machine from a country like India. We build good quality vibratory finishing machines at economical prices.
Pratik Ramaiya Got a link?
There's probably the "India price" and the "other country price"
A setup like that in America would easly cost $7,500. Even though material would be less than $1,000 - and thats premium pricing.
China or India would probably cost $300-$400 to build. Another $60 for shipping. I'm not trying to internationally bash, quality from India has increased alot, but I'd still take made in 🇺🇸 USA 🇺🇸
Our quality of ore and refinery procedures add to the strength.
Great work, where did you buy the media.
Bought it from Avatec in Germany.
@@MaxMakerChannel Appreciate the information.
Max, nice people. Thank you for the lead.
Who cares about the welds, you made something that none of us could ever dream of building and you did it. The only suggestion for the tub is i would have had that made out of stainless steel and you wouldnt have to coat it from rust
Thanks for your comment! I had the Tub and frame rebuilt by a professional since then. Its now made from stainless steel and the frame is super sturdy. However, my weld have improved dramatically since then. I can now weld pretty much anything. It doesn´t always look great, but it works!
Im thinking a 200$ jackhammer would do the job too.
I didn't know you could weld aluminium?
You can. With lots of practice.
what do you use for sand?
7:07 Ball bearings RIP :D
what is the little parts that polish??
Polishing media.
Nice work.
Grüße aus Berlin.
Also einiges tut schon weh zu sehen, aber ich kenn das ja von mir auch😅🙈
Aber coole feine Sache!👍🏼
Was ist den das für ein Schleifmaterial? Warum so grob und nicht feiner?🤔
Lg
Danke. Das war so ein Medium Material. Ich wollte schon zügig den Grat entfernen, aber nicht zu rau werden. Ich glaube die Profis haben 2 Bäder.
@@MaxMakerChannel mhhm du weißt doch sicher was das chemisch ist oder? Korund, siliciumcarbid?🤔😅
Oh keine Ahnung. Kann gut sein.
@@MaxMakerChannel hast du nen link Produktnamen oder irgendwas?🙈
Ja! www.avatec.de/de/verfahrensmittel/kunststoffschleifkoerper/kegel/ks-ke-42-5-10-in-25kg-saecken
dein name erinnert mich an makers muse, aber cooles projekt mit ddr qualität :)
Vielen Dank!
Warum hast du nicht gleich einen Rüttelmotor fest an der Wanne verschraubt? Die bekommt man doch schon ab 100€ aufwärts in allen Drehzahlen.
Rüttelmotoren mit der Größe kosten eher 1100€ und da ich noch keine Erfahrungswerte hatte wusste ich auch nicht welche Größe ich bräuchte.
@@MaxMakerChannel gebraucht gibts die billiger. Oft verbauen die Profis 2 bis 3 solcher Motoren, verstellbar, aber das muss ich für dich nicht erwähnen. Ist aber ein schönes Projekt was dir gelungen ist.
Nice, but those welds are making my eyes bleed
I got better since then : )
die schweißnähte sind wirklich schrecklich. ich denke aber mal das sich das bis heute geändert hat.
hat sich der bau gelohnt? ich denke schon eine weile über sowas nach....
Why not weld it? Its gonna fall apart
I welded most of it. It did´t fall apart, but a lot of people told me it would : )
Having metal braided cable I don't think I'd be comfortable with.
Because of the vibrations? Never thought about that.
about welding... whatever you do, don't give up.
Брат , ты сделал какую то херню , 1)крепление эксцентрика нужно было сделать болтовым ,2) кардан тут явно излишен , ты мог сделать ременной привод просто напечатав шестерню шириной в 3 размера ширины ремня и поставить натяжительный ролик , тем самым напрямую передав момент от мотора на вал эксцентрика и даже если ремень проскочит , то это не испорти результат - Удачи , твой друг из центра России
before welding aluminuim learn to weld on steele it's easier to learn so fsr your weld looks like crap
I did by now : )