This is the sort of knowledge you watch and think this is good stuff, but you watch it again in a years time and think wow, this guy is a genius, and you watch it in two years time and think, Alex has given me the keys to the castle. Thank you
Absolutely flipping brilliant. Riveting may be a better word. As you said, watch it to the end. Could not stop until I had. Understood everything you said and am able to do it, even with my home made staking set. Way to go Alex. !!
Low amplitude may be due to several faults ( on the same movement )! not the answer I wanted to hear. If you want a movement which is almost guaranteed to have these faults look no further than Seiko's 7009, warning, working on these movements can be totally deflating. I have nearly changed my hobby as a watch maker to a dealer in watchmakers used tools a couple of times. This channel is by far the best I've found, my tip of the day... watch each video more than once. Thanks Alex.
I can feel the pain. 7002, 7009 and even the 7S variants CAN all give a ton of amplitude issues. So much that it seems that the vast majority of people who work on them regularly will typically settle if they can get around 230-240. Thank you for you kind words Leo, and don't give it up. Let me know how I can help. Alex
Wow, love it, you go into such detail I can only imagine how much work you put into these videos. You are a great tutor btw only just come across your videos mow I can't get enough thanks for uploading them. 👏
My inspection process is not adequate yet. I knew this, but I just don't know all the things I should be looking for. Videos like this really help me in my journey. Thanks.
This series of videos that I’m doing right now is really all about pointing out the different things that can be incorporated into the inspection process. For example, on this movement, if I had done all these things during the disassembly, then I would know that the barrel is fine, so in the troubleshooting process, that would be eliminated as a possibility. As we move through looking for amplitude, all these videos will incorporate things that should be done during the disassembly, so that when the balance wheel goes in it is really just a matter of regulating the watch.
Thanks again Alex. Your videos are so informative and well presented, I am learning a lot from you and am working on an outline for my future procedures and processes. I am only a hobbyist but very detail and knowledge oriented and these help me a lot.
Good to see you again, Tom. The real purpose of the series of videos that I’m doing now is really meant to aid in developing an inspection process that you would use during the disassembly, and in some cases the reassembly. Right so all these things that I just did, if they had of been sorted out during the disassembly and corrected, and you know that this area of the power train is good then, when you do end up having to troubleshoot, you don’t have to go back and redo the barrel like I just did. Ideally, you want to discover these problems during the disassembly, and then, correct, clean, assemble, and regulate.
Awesome video, thank you Alex! One great tip when checking the end shake of the barrel arbor is to screw a pointed piece of pegwood into the arbor to grip it, and then push and pull to feel and see the endshake. I find this a lot easier than trying to grip the arbor with tweezers. I would certainly be interested in a video about closing different types of pivot holes in Watch plates and bridges.
@@watchrepairtutorials I can’t claim credit for the idea, but it does give an excellent and durable grip on the barrel, so you can then feel the side and particularly end shake really well and with good control.
So many great tips! Thank you. On those T brace mainsprings, I always use a slightly smaller winder cup than I need and then leave about 1/4” maybe 3/8” of the mainspring hanging out. I then fit it into the barrel ensuring the tab is in the slot. I then hold the brace down with tweezers with one hand and release the spring with the other. A bit to juggle at once but it usually works the first try.
Marvellous, just completed my first barrel bridge hole shrinking using a freshly acquired Boley staking set - couldn't have done it without your insight. Been gradually seeing amplitude increases in my work thanks to your excellent tutorials, the watch that required shrinking was kicking out a very respectable 230 degrees DD/DU, which for a 7625 Seiko is pretty healthy - sadly it would drop down to the mid 150s after 24 hours. Suspected some excess play in the barrel and it did look excessive on re-examination. Just waiting on the broaches arriving to bring the holes back down to take the arbour and then a polish up with a cocktail stick.
Hi! Do you remember me? After a lot of studying, I can now service my favorite vintage watches myself. Nevertheless, I've been whining for almost half an hour in the process of reuniting the gear chain.. Understanding the mechanism by which the key points of the clock work, pinpointing exactly what's wrong with the vintage movement when it's not working, seems a little bit possible now. I think it's thanks to you who taught me little by little how to clean using IPA, who was confused about what to do first.
Of course I remember you and it’s good to hear from you. The study of serology never ends, and we all have something to learn. As the problems we work on become more complicated the studies also dive deeper into how the movement does what it does. Keep at it.
Thank goodness for this video as I'm working on a Poljot movement that has the 't' bridle and knew that I'd seen something in one of your videos about seating the bridle. Time to turn up a quick tool as I only have 4mm brass rod. This is the beauty of your videos, they are a reference work that I can keep on going back to.
Hey Alex, appreciate the insight and new knowledge as usual!! I did want to also share however a method of installing T-end mainsprings which I read online and tried, which has finally has saved me pushing the mainspring around the inside of the barrel (which I have found often does indeed score the outer wall of the barrel leaving brass shavings floating around inside the barrel). You get the mainspring almost completely wound into the winder drum, but leave 1/4”-3/8” of the tail end of the mainspring not wound into the drum. This way, the T-end is exposed, and you can actually hook the T-end of the mainspring into its slot in the mainspring barrel before fully pushing the mainspring out of the winder into the barrel. The only stipulation then is that the winder drum you use has to be of a small enough diameter to allow the tail end of the mainspring to slip between it and the ID of the barrel wall, but that’s not usually a problem since the mainspring is so thin anyway. Just figured I’d try and give back for all the learning which you’ve provided, thank you!
Another terrific video, thank you Alex! I am especially excited to see what you have in store for us with that new ultrasonic cleaner modification. Also, it was great to see Ray's pivot polisher make an appearance -- I remember commenting on it in the subreddit. 👍
It’s always great to see you hear the comments. I’m really excited about showing what I’ve come up with as I think that it is literally a game changer because it adds the element of the spinning basket along with the ultrasonic, which is one of the things that makes the high-end machines so effective. I have a little bit of experimenting to do first but I really think it’s going to elevate the cleaning process for home watchmaker. This is the third or fourth version of the pivot polisher that Ray originally came up with. He has a retired engineer he’s always looking for ways to improve on the design almost to an obsessive level but that’s just the way analytical minds work.
@@watchrepairtutorials Thank you! You hit the nail on the head too, about the high end cleaners. I've thought so many times that there must be some way to just make a spinning basket inside my ultrasonic, so I am very glad to see this concept made real! Eager to see how you did it. The polisher looks improved since I last saw it, Ray has refined it to a very nice state 👍👍
As am I. I found a brand new Oster Stick Mixer, which is a hand blender, while packing up for a move. Now, I'm wondering if this could be repurposed and used in part for a DIY cleaning machine. Maybe alex's next video will answer that question. images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/31Ar9x0cZVL.jpg
I've watched these videos multiple times and every time I pick up details that help me to solve problems I encounter in servicing a warvh movement. Thanks Alex ❤ Is there a video of closing all types of pivot holes?
Not specifically, no. Staking sets are limited in what they can do. Closing holes only will work in a small percentage of cases. Bushing holes is the skill to learn
@@watchrepairtutorials agree. Is am a hobbyists as well. Can I request you make a video about case polishing? How to get the angles. How to get a satin finish. What type of polishing disks work best. Lathe vs bench grinder. Etc etc Thanks.
Another clear and informative instructional video. I have come to expect this level of instruction from Alex. It is terrific that he found an additional use for the the GalaxyPro pivot polisher at 27:10. I recall.polishing arbors by hand which can take quite awhile and is difficult. Alex has managed to cut another process time for repairs. Is there any reason why one could not also lightly burnish an arbor using a burnishing tool?
As you may know from a previous video, I would polish the arbor by holding it in a pin vise and use my rotary tool with the pin polisher to go around the arbor to polish it. This just basically reverses the process. The ultimate way to do it is in a lathe but I don’t have one anymore.
Good morning, deepest respect for sharing your knowledge, it is very useful to me. I would like a video on closing pivot holes, I am learning to repair watches, often pocket watches, and it is a very common problem there. Thank you for all your help 🤝🥇
Thanks, Alex. This is a fantastic video for barrels and sideshake 👍👍. I've done my first sideshake fix using my staking tool thanks to this video. Also, I want to get one of these Galaxy Pro pivot polishers as soon as they become available again. According to his site, your buddy Ray is making some updates and revisions. Perhaps he is going to encase the rotary tool or something?.
Another excellent vid Alex. I have to perform these types of repairs quite often on Seiko 6 Series movements including jeweling the upper and lower arbor ports. I would love to see a vid on how to close pivot holes on the various types of oil sinks. John S
@@watchrepairtutorials im taking apart an 1888 Am Watch Co Waltham. Just old enough to still have the beautiful graving on the balance cock. A two piece balance wheel of bonded brass AND steel. A real pleasure.
This technique only works if the hole is still round. When the hole is struck with the punch, it spreads out the metal evenly around the hole. Then the hole is opened up with a smoothing broach. The hall is opened up only enough for the barrel Arbor to spin freely.
Great channel. I think I watched everything you put out there and some I watched like 5 times (regulation... ). I think its time I get a staking tool and I looked on your web for recommendation but I did not find anything on staking tools. I looked on vintage ones but they are so expensive and not sure if they are complete, bent... so on. I do not know much about China made ones either. I think it would be great if there was a video about staking tool and what to look for when choosing one. Thank you again for your channel
Thank you. Staking hats are worth the investment. If you could find a good one and even the vintage ones are much less expensive than a brand new one. You do have to be careful to make sure that the punches are in good condition. Depending on what you work on the Chinese version might be suitable for replacing balance, enclosing some holes in newer movements, but if you’re gonna be working on vintage watches, specifically older pocket watches that a good vintage staking set will give you all stumps that you need. I probably won’t be doing any staking set lessons on the channel because I’m doing two complete lessons making course on using the staking set, including all the different types of repairs that can be done with it.
Hey Alex, great video on this, I’ve watched it a couple times. Curious of the squeeze alcohol dispenser you used when cleaning the mainspring, it seems quite handy. I’ve done some searching but have not found it. What would it be called?
I haven’t done a video on it, but I will be making some videos on different watches that I’m building. This Hamilton 917 is going to be converted into a wristwatch which I’ll be doing after I get everything regulated.
hi there! I always find your vids very helpful and encouraging. I'm just getting more in depth with watchmaking and you are the best resource for this, in my opinion, so thank you!!! When you mention broaches, what kit size should I get? there seems to be a lot of sizes, but specially one that can help in smoothing out a hole diameter that has been steaked. like in your case the main spring arbor hole, thanks!
Alex, this was super terrific. Would you consider making a video about how to close pivot holes in all different situations? Also, I've spent more money than I want to admit buying two Moseley Staking Sets in wooden boxes. The first was fairly complete (punch and stakes), but lacked any of the 20-something stumps. The second (less than half the price of the other, only about $150) had no punch, but had a full set of stumps, 3/4ths of the stakes, and a nice box with an unfortunate non-matching handle (also an ancient and browning pamphlet/booklet by Moseley showing sizes, etc., probably hard to get). I'm thinking, between the two sets, maybe I will have a nice representation of stakes and stumps. One or two are broken. I've also bought an ultrasound cleaner like yours, so I'm preparing to clean these up and to refinish the boxes (which deserve refinishing).The punch has no moving, upper handle; it just has a hole! I want to learn how to use these stakes/stumps and how to put in rivots. I'm using the transcrips of your presentations, editing them in Word to correct formatting and grammar so that they match exactly what you said with how you said it, and creating a book (several books, before I'm done). This helps me to absorb every word you say, every concept you give out. I guess I've spent (besides the staking sets) $1000 (besides the microscope, barlow lens, light, ultrasound machine). Oils and grease alone is shockingly expensive. Now I've got to produce something, some sales somehow on eBay, before my wife divorces me over all I've bought. She is understanding, as understanding as a wife can be who doesn't understand anything I'm talking about when I describe something exciting to me regarding watches and clocks. Yes, I love vintage clocks too! You're my teacher. You're the best! Your tutorials are the best! With so much appreciation, David Lee
Just remember, my friend, I’m always here if you need something, a question, advice, whatever you need. Just remember everything matters and watchmaking. The smallest details have a big impact. take your time, practice what you learn and you will do great.
Hi Alex, great video... Learning a lot with you. Suggestion, maybe make a video on how to manage screws. I think what i do is not effective. Also what to do when you loose a screw...
What problems are you having exactly. I don't really loose too many screws these days. I have some screw assortments and jars of screws that I can pull from.
@@watchrepairtutorials hi Alex. Thanks for answering. In my case the problem, or annoyance is to keep the screws for the component i am disassembling together with the actual component. I feel that if i mix the screws i can't pick them a part when the times cone to assemble
@@michaelmmontuori one of the things that I do when I wash my parts is to group systems of parts together. In other words, I put the setting lever in their screws, and one small part container the motion work parts together the pallet bridge, and it screws together the train wheel and the screws for the bridge together, so that when you finish drying them and you dump them back into your part tray, everything should be correct
@@watchrepairtutorials thanks Alex. So, there is not special way to identify the screws, it's better not to mix them during the wash. Great to know that I was not too much off...
@@michaelmmontuori well, there are some identifying factors that you can look at when you’re taking screws out. Many times bridge screws will all be the same. Some screws can be identified by the part being screwed down. The screw hole in the part might have a chamfer in it telling you that the screw head is beveled so that it sits flat when it’s in the hole. One of that you just have to pay attention to what the screw looks like when you’re taking it out.
One question for you Alex, I don't expect this to be easy..., I noticed my desire for perfection is ever increasing (I discarded this concept a long time ago, you know perfection not attainable, 70% of effort waisted trying to achieve it etc., often ends in a F up) So, question - how do you decide when the amplitude is going to be as good as you can get it? Noticed comments about some Seiko being lower. I can verify that but am I possibly overlooking an issue? I, for example, do not yet polish pivots. Have seen your tool to do this. Is there a % lost with a yet to be polished pivot? I do only work on vintage so I guess I can spin this question another way. Can a hobbyist get a 50-60 year old watch back to manufactured specification? Or say, within 10%? Hmm, as I type I realise this is just going to have to be my own call on this. I also noticed that 270 is a nice number to attain. Could I ever hope to get a Moeris 10 1/2 CD movement, 17 jewel operating at say 250 (that's within -10%)?
One of the first things that I learned is that I watch is what it is. In other words you can’t gold plate, a pig. I was taught that as a watchmaker the number one goal was for the watch to keep an accurate time on the wrist. We never worried about a watch being in perfect poise because watch, you can still keep time without being perfect. We only strive for perfection with the movement warranted that type of service. One of the major factors is obviously the quality of the movement itself. So for example, you can’t expect a Seiko 7002 to perform at the same level as any American made railroad watches. It’s not so much the age of the watch as the quality of the manufacturing when it was made. I have had, and worked on many railroad grade watches that ran at a higher standard than modern Rolex watches. They had to because peoples lives were on the line. 270° minimum allows the watch to run at peak isochronism. This is the Swiss standard. It is based off of math and physics so it’s not really a debatable concept. Second watch collectors have accepted the fact that older movements require too much work to get amplitude up to that level so it has somehow become the norm but if they’re happy with that and the watch keeps decent time on the wrist, then it really doesn’t matter right? I would say to just do the best you can with what you have to work with, and don’t kill yourself trying to goldplate a pig. Save that for the movements that deserve the attention. Alex
Hey Alex, Once again, just wanted to say thanks for great content. The value I get from both these videos and your course, which I'm working my way through, is tremendous. I actually have a question regarding the specific target number for amplitude. Why 270? My assumption is that given that the slope of the power delivery curve for a coiled spring is steepest at the beginning and end of its wind respectively, that 270 or above puts you in the stablest position of adequate power delivery for the longest period of time, thereby minimizing isochronism (hopefully using that term correctly) and positional variation. However, that's just reasoning from a background in physics, and I don't actually know if that's correct, or if there is some other reason this is an ideal target number in the watchmaking space. Very interested to hear the actual reasoning behind this. Hope you having a wonderful holiday season with family and friends, and thank you again. Dave
270 I kind of the minimum for amplitude for isochronism. When a movement runs at 270 in the horizontal position and then goes to a vertical position, amplitude naturally drops 30-40 degrees right. That puts the vertical amplitude around 220-230 which is the sweet spot for amplitude because it cancels out or at the least minimizes any poise error that may be present.
Hello Sir, Trust you are doing fine. For checking amplitude, most watch mskers use Weishi machine which is very expensive, I understand. Any other alternative to this? Please advise. Thank you Sir.
Yes, I use the eTimer. It is similar to the more expensive Weishi software but comes in around 400 US . It runs on a PC and has many of the same functions with the exception of scope functions and some of the more specialized functions. One thing I like about the eTimer is that you can calibrate it from the atomic clock so it is very accurate.
Thank you, Sir, for your prompt response. You are a true professional to the core. I'm glad I got in touch with you through your videos. Take care and stay safe. God bless.
Hi Alex i'm chasing lost amplitude on a seiko NH35 Movement .whilst taking it apart i did not release all the tension on the mainspring when i removed the pallet fork and the escapement went flying around so fast the it made a hell of a noise and obviously the mainspring unwound unattended would this bad practice be the reason my Amplitude has basically halved cheers in advance
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...yes, used up my two practice movement hairsprings practicing techniques to get spacings correct, aligned so during regulation there is always a gap along the spring, installing ensures spring is parallel to wheel, and beat error minimised, but biggest fail for me was the kink up or down. Found a old old video on using pyth (pith) wood to lay spring so kink is up. Then firm grip with perfect honed tweezers push vertically down into wood. Hey presto, only putting pressure in exact place of the kink. I still will approach hairspring and balance wheel disassembly and reassembly with a lot, a lot of care and respect. I work on vintage so no room for error.
Ok I watched one vid and commented that you did not show putting the watch back in beat. Then I watch another one that shows you doing it. Yikes I have to stop commenting and just watch more
The BE should always be under 0.9 ms. Period. I’ll be more careful in the future when I service and movement not to leave any steps out so there’s no confusion.
Thanks a lot!! Sus videos son extraordinarios, magnificamente explicados, con ejemplos muy clarificadores…de lo mejor que se puede encontrar en internet! Felicidades.
This is the sort of knowledge you watch and think this is good stuff, but you watch it again in a years time and think wow, this guy is a genius, and you watch it in two years time and think, Alex has given me the keys to the castle. Thank you
Mr. O’Donnell, 😊
Thank you for validating what I am trying to do here on the channel. Good luck with your work and let me know how I can help.
Absolutely flipping brilliant. Riveting may be a better word. As you said, watch it to the end. Could not stop until I had. Understood everything you said and am able to do it, even with my home made staking set. Way to go Alex. !!
Awesome Sauce> Thanks for the update Ross.
Low amplitude may be due to several faults ( on the same movement )! not the answer I wanted to hear.
If you want a movement which is almost guaranteed to have these faults look no further than Seiko's 7009, warning, working on these movements can be totally deflating. I have nearly changed my hobby as a watch maker to a dealer in watchmakers used tools a couple of times. This channel is by far the best I've found, my tip of the day... watch each video more than once. Thanks Alex.
I can feel the pain. 7002, 7009 and even the 7S variants CAN all give a ton of amplitude issues. So much that it seems that the vast majority of people who work on them regularly will typically settle if they can get around 230-240.
Thank you for you kind words Leo, and don't give it up. Let me know how I can help. Alex
Wow, love it, you go into such detail I can only imagine how much work you put into these videos. You are a great tutor btw only just come across your videos mow I can't get enough thanks for uploading them. 👏
Thanks for recognizing the effort. Most people will not believe how much time it takes, so thank you.
My inspection process is not adequate yet. I knew this, but I just don't know all the things I should be looking for. Videos like this really help me in my journey. Thanks.
This series of videos that I’m doing right now is really all about pointing out the different things that can be incorporated into the inspection process. For example, on this movement, if I had done all these things during the disassembly, then I would know that the barrel is fine, so in the troubleshooting process, that would be eliminated as a possibility. As we move through looking for amplitude, all these videos will incorporate things that should be done during the disassembly, so that when the balance wheel goes in it is really just a matter of regulating the watch.
Thanks again Alex. Your videos are so informative and well presented, I am learning a lot from you and am working on an outline for my future procedures and processes. I am only a hobbyist but very detail and knowledge oriented and these help me a lot.
Good to see you again, Tom. The real purpose of the series of videos that I’m doing now is really meant to aid in developing an inspection process that you would use during the disassembly, and in some cases the reassembly. Right so all these things that I just did, if they had of been sorted out during the disassembly and corrected, and you know that this area of the power train is good then, when you do end up having to troubleshoot, you don’t have to go back and redo the barrel like I just did. Ideally, you want to discover these problems during the disassembly, and then, correct, clean, assemble, and regulate.
Awesome video, thank you Alex! One great tip when checking the end shake of the barrel arbor is to screw a pointed piece of pegwood into the arbor to grip it, and then push and pull to feel and see the endshake. I find this a lot easier than trying to grip the arbor with tweezers.
I would certainly be interested in a video about closing different types of pivot holes in Watch plates and bridges.
It’s a good tip. I might have to try that one.
@@watchrepairtutorials I can’t claim credit for the idea, but it does give an excellent and durable grip on the barrel, so you can then feel the side and particularly end shake really well and with good control.
So many great tips! Thank you. On those T brace mainsprings, I always use a slightly smaller winder cup than I need and then leave about 1/4” maybe 3/8” of the mainspring hanging out. I then fit it into the barrel ensuring the tab is in the slot. I then hold the brace down with tweezers with one hand and release the spring with the other. A bit to juggle at once but it usually works the first try.
Not bad not bad I may have to try that. The only issue I would see might be in the spring filling up the winder too tightly.
Chasing amplitude is a constant challenge for me. Your videos really help with that. Thanks so much!
Then you are really going to like this series.
Marvellous, just completed my first barrel bridge hole shrinking using a freshly acquired Boley staking set - couldn't have done it without your insight.
Been gradually seeing amplitude increases in my work thanks to your excellent tutorials, the watch that required shrinking was kicking out a very respectable 230 degrees DD/DU, which for a 7625 Seiko is pretty healthy - sadly it would drop down to the mid 150s after 24 hours. Suspected some excess play in the barrel and it did look excessive on re-examination.
Just waiting on the broaches arriving to bring the holes back down to take the arbour and then a polish up with a cocktail stick.
Man, Yan, I love hearing this kind of stuff. Good job I hope to hear from you in the future as you progress.
The attention to detail is a dying skill, you're very good sir👏👏👏🙏
Drake, in watchmaking everything matters. Thank you my friend. Hope to see you here again.
@@watchrepairtutorials I can see that! I enjoy detail oriented subjects, so I'll be back you can bet on it!
A fantastic video crammed full of great gems! I’m always chasing the big A!
Same here Boyd, same here. 😏
Excellent commentary making the whole process easily understandable....thanks for your time and efforts, quality tuition.👍
I hope you find some use for the information. I know my style is not for everyone, so I appreciate your kind words.
@@watchrepairtutorials I already have, a 7009A with a little too much arbor side shake. The tips to check the barrel and lid holes were great..👍👍
Hi! Do you remember me?
After a lot of studying, I can now service my favorite vintage watches myself.
Nevertheless, I've been whining for almost half an hour in the process of reuniting the gear chain..
Understanding the mechanism by which the key points of the clock work, pinpointing exactly what's wrong with the vintage movement when it's not working, seems a little bit possible now.
I think it's thanks to you who taught me little by little how to clean using IPA, who was confused about what to do first.
Of course I remember you and it’s good to hear from you. The study of serology never ends, and we all have something to learn. As the problems we work on become more complicated the studies also dive deeper into how the movement does what it does. Keep at it.
I've left a link below my comment, but it seems the youtube automatic system has erased it. 😂
so much knowledge , and so good presented , bravo !
Glad you liked it! Thank you so much
Thank goodness for this video as I'm working on a Poljot movement that has the 't' bridle and knew that I'd seen something in one of your videos about seating the bridle. Time to turn up a quick tool as I only have 4mm brass rod. This is the beauty of your videos, they are a reference work that I can keep on going back to.
Thanks, TGM. These type of videos are evergreen and good for many years to come.
Hey Alex, appreciate the insight and new knowledge as usual!! I did want to also share however a method of installing T-end mainsprings which I read online and tried, which has finally has saved me pushing the mainspring around the inside of the barrel (which I have found often does indeed score the outer wall of the barrel leaving brass shavings floating around inside the barrel). You get the mainspring almost completely wound into the winder drum, but leave 1/4”-3/8” of the tail end of the mainspring not wound into the drum. This way, the T-end is exposed, and you can actually hook the T-end of the mainspring into its slot in the mainspring barrel before fully pushing the mainspring out of the winder into the barrel. The only stipulation then is that the winder drum you use has to be of a small enough diameter to allow the tail end of the mainspring to slip between it and the ID of the barrel wall, but that’s not usually a problem since the mainspring is so thin anyway. Just figured I’d try and give back for all the learning which you’ve provided, thank you!
That technique definitely works well. Thanks for detailing it out so well in the comments. Alex
Thank you sir. Extremely informative. Great tutorial as with all of your vids.
Thank you kindly my friend
Thank you again for an excellent tutorial Alex!
My pleasure John
Fantastic teacher, thanks for all your videos.Great chanel !
Thank you! 😃
Another terrific video, thank you Alex! I am especially excited to see what you have in store for us with that new ultrasonic cleaner modification. Also, it was great to see Ray's pivot polisher make an appearance -- I remember commenting on it in the subreddit. 👍
It’s always great to see you hear the comments. I’m really excited about showing what I’ve come up with as I think that it is literally a game changer because it adds the element of the spinning basket along with the ultrasonic, which is one of the things that makes the high-end machines so effective. I have a little bit of experimenting to do first but I really think it’s going to elevate the cleaning process for home watchmaker.
This is the third or fourth version of the pivot polisher that Ray originally came up with.
He has a retired engineer he’s always looking for ways to improve on the design almost to an obsessive level but that’s just the way analytical minds work.
@@watchrepairtutorials Thank you! You hit the nail on the head too, about the high end cleaners. I've thought so many times that there must be some way to just make a spinning basket inside my ultrasonic, so I am very glad to see this concept made real! Eager to see how you did it. The polisher looks improved since I last saw it, Ray has refined it to a very nice state 👍👍
As am I.
I found a brand new Oster Stick Mixer, which is a hand blender, while packing up for a move.
Now, I'm wondering if this could be repurposed and used in part for a DIY cleaning machine.
Maybe alex's next video will answer that question.
images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/31Ar9x0cZVL.jpg
I've watched these videos multiple times and every time I pick up details that help me to solve problems I encounter in servicing a warvh movement. Thanks Alex ❤
Is there a video of closing all types of pivot holes?
Not specifically, no. Staking sets are limited in what they can do. Closing holes only will work in a small percentage of cases.
Bushing holes is the skill to learn
as a hobbyist I find these so helpful
Thank you so much. You are the reason I make these.
@@watchrepairtutorials agree. Is am a hobbyists as well. Can I request you make a video about case polishing?
How to get the angles. How to get a satin finish. What type of polishing disks work best. Lathe vs bench grinder. Etc etc
Thanks.
@@marcn8750 I will try to work some in. I try to focus primarily on the mechanical aspects of watchmaking and service.
@@watchrepairtutorials appreciate it
Another clear and informative instructional video. I have come to expect this level of instruction from Alex.
It is terrific that he found an additional use for the the GalaxyPro pivot polisher at 27:10.
I recall.polishing arbors by hand which can take quite awhile and is difficult. Alex has managed to cut another process time for repairs. Is there any reason why one could not also lightly burnish an arbor using a burnishing tool?
As you may know from a previous video, I would polish the arbor by holding it in a pin vise and use my rotary tool with the pin polisher to go around the arbor to polish it. This just basically reverses the process.
The ultimate way to do it is in a lathe but I don’t have one anymore.
Good morning, deepest respect for sharing your knowledge, it is very useful to me. I would like a video on closing pivot holes, I am learning to repair watches, often pocket watches, and it is a very common problem there.
Thank you for all your help 🤝🥇
We are definitely going to dive into the subject deeper. Thank you.
@@watchrepairtutorials I appreciate it very much🤝🤝
Awesome!!! Thanks for your tutorials 😀 Very helpful indeed!
First, I love your screen name. And secondly, I hope to see you hear more often Alex.
Some great information. Thank you
I hope you find some of it useful my friend. Thank you for stopping by.
Thanks, Alex. This is a fantastic video for barrels and sideshake 👍👍.
I've done my first sideshake fix using my staking tool thanks to this video.
Also, I want to get one of these Galaxy Pro pivot polishers as soon as they become available again. According to his site, your buddy Ray is making some updates and revisions. Perhaps he is going to encase the rotary tool or something?.
Yeah man they’re awesome. You’ll have to check back with Ray or send him a note to see when he’ll be releasing the next version.
Another excellent vid Alex. I have to perform these types of repairs quite often on Seiko 6 Series movements including jeweling the upper and lower arbor ports. I would love to see a vid on how to close pivot holes on the various types of oil sinks. John S
Always good to see you here Supercruze. I’ll be doing that in an upcoming video.
Yet another great video👍
There he is. What’s happening man. Thanks
@@watchrepairtutorials im taking apart an 1888 Am Watch Co Waltham. Just old enough to still have the beautiful graving on the balance cock. A two piece balance wheel of bonded brass AND steel. A real pleasure.
@@bolgerguide sounds like it is going to be a fun project for sure
Hi Alex, thank you for creating amazing content! How do you make sure the closed hole's center is at where it was?
This technique only works if the hole is still round. When the hole is struck with the punch, it spreads out the metal evenly around the hole. Then the hole is opened up with a smoothing broach. The hall is opened up only enough for the barrel Arbor to spin freely.
Great video btw
Hey buddy. Got one coming out tomorrow you might be interested in. Let me know what you do.
Here is a link to the Galaxy Pro Pivot Polisher, pivotpolisher.com/
Great video !!!!!
Glad you enjoyed it
Great channel. I think I watched everything you put out there and some I watched like 5 times (regulation... ). I think its time I get a staking tool and I looked on your web for recommendation but I did not find anything on staking tools. I looked on vintage ones but they are so expensive and not sure if they are complete, bent... so on. I do not know much about China made ones either. I think it would be great if there was a video about staking tool and what to look for when choosing one. Thank you again for your channel
Thank you. Staking hats are worth the investment. If you could find a good one and even the vintage ones are much less expensive than a brand new one. You do have to be careful to make sure that the punches are in good condition.
Depending on what you work on the Chinese version might be suitable for replacing balance, enclosing some holes in newer movements, but if you’re gonna be working on vintage watches, specifically older pocket watches that a good vintage staking set will give you all stumps that you need.
I probably won’t be doing any staking set lessons on the channel because I’m doing two complete lessons making course on using the staking set, including all the different types of repairs that can be done with it.
Thank you for your super quick response and good advice. It gives me some idea. 👍 @@watchrepairtutorials
Hey Alex, great video on this, I’ve watched it a couple times. Curious of the squeeze alcohol dispenser you used when cleaning the mainspring, it seems quite handy. I’ve done some searching but have not found it. What would it be called?
Hey Man,
There is a link in the video description.
Thank you for educating, 30:23 in the edit you refer to hamilton homage w PT-5000 ,is there a link to that build? , regards
I haven’t done a video on it, but I will be making some videos on different watches that I’m building. This Hamilton 917 is going to be converted into a wristwatch which I’ll be doing after I get everything regulated.
thanks for sharing
It is my pleasure
hi there! I always find your vids very helpful and encouraging. I'm just getting more in depth with watchmaking and you are the best resource for this, in my opinion, so thank you!!! When you mention broaches, what kit size should I get? there seems to be a lot of sizes, but specially one that can help in smoothing out a hole diameter that has been steaked. like in your case the main spring arbor hole, thanks!
I use the Bergeon Set 30543-AP. I have never been able to find any others that work as well.
Awesome info
Thanks brother
Alex, this was super terrific. Would you consider making a video about how to close pivot holes in all different situations? Also, I've spent more money than I want to admit buying two Moseley Staking Sets in wooden boxes. The first was fairly complete (punch and stakes), but lacked any of the 20-something stumps. The second (less than half the price of the other, only about $150) had no punch, but had a full set of stumps, 3/4ths of the stakes, and a nice box with an unfortunate non-matching handle (also an ancient and browning pamphlet/booklet by Moseley showing sizes, etc., probably hard to get). I'm thinking, between the two sets, maybe I will have a nice representation of stakes and stumps. One or two are broken. I've also bought an ultrasound cleaner like yours, so I'm preparing to clean these up and to refinish the boxes (which deserve refinishing).The punch has no moving, upper handle; it just has a hole! I want to learn how to use these stakes/stumps and how to put in rivots. I'm using the transcrips of your presentations, editing them in Word to correct formatting and grammar so that they match exactly what you said with how you said it, and creating a book (several books, before I'm done). This helps me to absorb every word you say, every concept you give out. I guess I've spent (besides the staking sets) $1000 (besides the microscope, barlow lens, light, ultrasound machine). Oils and grease alone is shockingly expensive. Now I've got to produce something, some sales somehow on eBay, before my wife divorces me over all I've bought. She is understanding, as understanding as a wife can be who doesn't understand anything I'm talking about when I describe something exciting to me regarding watches and clocks. Yes, I love vintage clocks too! You're my teacher. You're the best! Your tutorials are the best! With so much appreciation, David Lee
Just remember, my friend, I’m always here if you need something, a question, advice, whatever you need. Just remember everything matters and watchmaking. The smallest details have a big impact. take your time, practice what you learn and you will do great.
THANKS,,,,GOOD INFO
You got it buddy
Hi Alex, great video... Learning a lot with you. Suggestion, maybe make a video on how to manage screws. I think what i do is not effective. Also what to do when you loose a screw...
What problems are you having exactly. I don't really loose too many screws these days. I have some screw assortments and jars of screws that I can pull from.
@@watchrepairtutorials hi Alex. Thanks for answering. In my case the problem, or annoyance is to keep the screws for the component i am disassembling together with the actual component. I feel that if i mix the screws i can't pick them a part when the times cone to assemble
@@michaelmmontuori one of the things that I do when I wash my parts is to group systems of parts together. In other words, I put the setting lever in their screws, and one small part container the motion work parts together the pallet bridge, and it screws together the train wheel and the screws for the bridge together, so that when you finish drying them and you dump them back into your part tray, everything should be correct
@@watchrepairtutorials thanks Alex. So, there is not special way to identify the screws, it's better not to mix them during the wash. Great to know that I was not too much off...
@@michaelmmontuori well, there are some identifying factors that you can look at when you’re taking screws out. Many times bridge screws will all be the same. Some screws can be identified by the part being screwed down. The screw hole in the part might have a chamfer in it telling you that the screw head is beveled so that it sits flat when it’s in the hole. One of that you just have to pay attention to what the screw looks like when you’re taking it out.
Id be very interested to see your train wheel pivot hole punching technique
Will be doing one for sure. Thanks Shaun
🤙Great video a video about closing a oil sink pivot hole would be !!!!!
It’s a coming Amanda, it’s coming.
Why don't you polish the main plate and the bridge after resizing like you do with the barrel?
You caught that. I forgot to add that in, but it certainly is good practice.
One question for you Alex, I don't expect this to be easy..., I noticed my desire for perfection is ever increasing (I discarded this concept a long time ago, you know perfection not attainable, 70% of effort waisted trying to achieve it etc., often ends in a F up) So, question - how do you decide when the amplitude is going to be as good as you can get it? Noticed comments about some Seiko being lower. I can verify that but am I possibly overlooking an issue? I, for example, do not yet polish pivots. Have seen your tool to do this. Is there a % lost with a yet to be polished pivot? I do only work on vintage so I guess I can spin this question another way. Can a hobbyist get a 50-60 year old watch back to manufactured specification? Or say, within 10%? Hmm, as I type I realise this is just going to have to be my own call on this. I also noticed that 270 is a nice number to attain. Could I ever hope to get a Moeris 10 1/2 CD movement, 17 jewel operating at say 250 (that's within -10%)?
One of the first things that I learned is that I watch is what it is. In other words you can’t gold plate, a pig. I was taught that as a watchmaker the number one goal was for the watch to keep an accurate time on the wrist. We never worried about a watch being in perfect poise because watch, you can still keep time without being perfect. We only strive for perfection with the movement warranted that type of service.
One of the major factors is obviously the quality of the movement itself. So for example, you can’t expect a Seiko 7002 to perform at the same level as any American made railroad watches. It’s not so much the age of the watch as the quality of the manufacturing when it was made. I have had, and worked on many railroad grade watches that ran at a higher standard than modern Rolex watches. They had to because peoples lives were on the line. 270° minimum allows the watch to run at peak isochronism. This is the Swiss standard. It is based off of math and physics so it’s not really a debatable concept. Second watch collectors have accepted the fact that older movements require too much work to get amplitude up to that level so it has somehow become the norm but if they’re happy with that and the watch keeps decent time on the wrist, then it really doesn’t matter right?
I would say to just do the best you can with what you have to work with, and don’t kill yourself trying to goldplate a pig. Save that for the movements that deserve the attention.
Alex
@@watchrepairtutorials Thanks Alex, thoughtful response. I wondered why wife, who is English, uses the term "lipstick on a pig". I think I understand.
Hey Alex,
Once again, just wanted to say thanks for great content. The value I get from both these videos and your course, which I'm working my way through, is tremendous.
I actually have a question regarding the specific target number for amplitude. Why 270? My assumption is that given that the slope of the power delivery curve for a coiled spring is steepest at the beginning and end of its wind respectively, that 270 or above puts you in the stablest position of adequate power delivery for the longest period of time, thereby minimizing isochronism (hopefully using that term correctly) and positional variation.
However, that's just reasoning from a background in physics, and I don't actually know if that's correct, or if there is some other reason this is an ideal target number in the watchmaking space. Very interested to hear the actual reasoning behind this.
Hope you having a wonderful holiday season with family and friends, and thank you again.
Dave
And by minimizing, I mean maximizing isochronism (still not sure I'm using the term correctly)
270 I kind of the minimum for amplitude for isochronism. When a movement runs at 270 in the horizontal position and then goes to a vertical position, amplitude naturally drops 30-40 degrees right. That puts the vertical amplitude around 220-230 which is the sweet spot for amplitude because it cancels out or at the least minimizes any poise error that may be present.
@@watchrepairtutorials Awesome, thank you!
Hello Sir, Trust you are doing fine. For checking amplitude, most watch mskers use Weishi machine which is very expensive, I understand. Any other alternative to this? Please advise. Thank you Sir.
Yes, I use the eTimer. It is similar to the more expensive Weishi software but comes in around 400 US . It runs on a PC and has many of the same functions with the exception of scope functions and some of the more specialized functions.
One thing I like about the eTimer is that you can calibrate it from the atomic clock so it is very accurate.
Thank you, Sir, for your prompt response. You are a true professional to the core. I'm glad I got in touch with you through your videos. Take care and stay safe. God bless.
Hi Alex i'm chasing lost amplitude on a seiko NH35 Movement .whilst taking it apart i did not release all the tension on the mainspring when i removed the pallet fork and the escapement went flying around so fast the it made a hell of a noise and obviously the mainspring unwound unattended would this bad practice be the reason my Amplitude has basically halved cheers in advance
I’m sure it is. It’s possible that a pivot was bent among many other things that could’ve happened.
@@watchrepairtutorials cheers Alex ill check/replace the mainspring and check the pivots cheers Michael
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Hairspring is my biggest pain.
You’re not the only one brother
...yes, used up my two practice movement hairsprings practicing techniques to get spacings correct, aligned so during regulation there is always a gap along the spring, installing ensures spring is parallel to wheel, and beat error minimised, but biggest fail for me was the kink up or down. Found a old old video on using pyth (pith) wood to lay spring so kink is up. Then firm grip with perfect honed tweezers push vertically down into wood. Hey presto, only putting pressure in exact place of the kink. I still will approach hairspring and balance wheel disassembly and reassembly with a lot, a lot of care and respect. I work on vintage so no room for error.
Omega speed master triple date
Nice one.
Ok I watched one vid and commented that you did not show putting the watch back in beat. Then I watch another one that shows you doing it. Yikes I have to stop commenting and just watch more
The BE should always be under 0.9 ms. Period.
I’ll be more careful in the future when I service and movement not to leave any steps out so there’s no confusion.
Hamilton forever
I am a fan of their watches as well. 😊
Thanks a lot!!
Sus videos son extraordinarios, magnificamente explicados, con ejemplos muy clarificadores…de lo mejor que se puede encontrar en internet!
Felicidades.
Gracias mi amiga