I just purchased this saw in March of 2024. I haven't used it very much yet, but so far it seems like a great saw. My previous table saw was a Ridgid TS3612 contractor saw. It worked great, but after my grandfather passed away the family decided they wanted his old shop tools...ok fine, that means I'm buying what I want LOL. So I went from a contractor saw to a hybrid cabinet saw....the Ridgid table saw extension wings weren't solid cast iron, they had crosshatch type holes throughout them, so things would fall through, or get caught in those cutouts. The Grizzly G0771Z has solid cast iron extension wings, making for a very nice smooth table top...plenty of power, although its only 1/4HP more than the Ridgid TS3612's 1.75HP, even it did everything I asked of it, even hardwoods it didn't struggle with...so I doubt the Grizzly will have any issues with the same type of usage. Once I got the saw assembled and setup, I cleaned all the shipping grease off and then I applied a coat of paste wax to the table.
I’ve had the same saw now for about 8 months and love it. You are totally right about it not being a production saw. I’m an experienced hobby woodworker and don’t need all that power. A sharp blade can compensate for the lack of power. I’ve never had a problem with hardwoods like white oak, bloodwood, purpleheart, & bubinga. I do have 2 minor issues ... that plastic push stick should be thrown away. If you’ve ever had a spinning blade hit a plastic push stick ... it shatters. 2nd issue is the rip fence grooves. When cutting a 45° or probably any angle a portion of the cut ends up in the grooves making the measurement scale worthless. What I added was a flip up/down outfeed table which is a fabulous addition. I also put my MLCS router table on the left side to compensate for the U-Turn router lift.
I also broke my push stick in a similar fashion. Plus they really should be used in pairs anyways, so one isn’t enough. I haven’t really encountered the fence groove issue though.
Another nice video. One thing though, when measuring from the miter slot to the blade you need to measure at the same spot on the blade. Reason being, the arbor and or blade can have runout. To eliminate any blade runout in your measurement just use a sharpe and mark a spot on the blade. Only measure at that spot. This will be a true mitre slot to blade measurement.
Yeah, weirdly enough I did it that way albeit via a different method on my first video but didn’t do it here. You’re right, that would be the true accurate measurement.
Thank you for a great review. Well done. One point of interest; when checking alignment of the blade to the miter slots, keep in mind most blades are not perfect and will give an inaccurate reading....I checked about 6 of my blades and none were perfect, plus you are only measuring a few inches. a better system is to attach an arm to the arbor that will swing forward and back giving you a greater distance to check. I like the convenient alignment adjusting on this saw...on my old saw the trunion is bolted to the table underneath which requires some heavy gymnastics. The only thing I DON'T like is the fence; if you push on the end you get some play One last critique; On squaring the fence...Framing squares are not square, always check and adjust your framing square (YT will tell you how). I usually kick out my fence a few thou away from the blade-doesn't affect the cut and helps reduce kickback.Thanks again for a great review!....I'm going buy one!
I hope you didn't chase a couple thousands on the blade alignment. That is very good within a tolerance. It would only make the cut slightly wider and you'd find any saw, Powermatic, Saw Stop or Laguna will have similar number. My measurement showed the two miter slots on my (brand new) G0771 are not perfect. One side is 2 thousands different than the other
Thanks for posting this video. I found it very informative. I have a Dewalt job site saw and have been thinking of upgrading. One of the things that holds me back is the rack and pinion fence. It is bulletproof in terms of being consistent, easy to adjust. I heard you say the fence on your saw requires some attention to TLC. Glad to hear that overall you are happy with your upgrade.
Very nice video. Thanks for the information. I was looking at this saw last week and not including any tax or lift gate fee, it’ll cost $1671.00 delivered. And that’s on sale.
Great videos, i just recvd this saw and wonder what the secret is to getting the fence to slide so easily. Mine drags a bit, and when clamping the back end of the fence slightly pulls left.
Thanks for such a thorough and informative review. You have good insights and clear/accurate explanations. The aluminum fence rail is also a worry of mine, to the point that I've mostly ruled out any saw that has a cam-lever fence that doesn't clamp against steel. You say there's barely any wear on the rail, but have you confirmed that the accuracy of the fence hasn't been affected? If there's really no reason to worry about it, then that could save picky dinguses like me a bit of money when saw-shopping. Cheers!
I really appreciate your review of this Grizzly, especially the comments on the fence. I don't want to give any fence "...this system needs a lot o TLC to work properly...." gives me considerable pause before purchasing this model. I want a spot-on, dead accurate fence if I'm paying around $1,200 for a table saw. I can deal with blowing out the dust and doing some lubrication if needed from time to time. I am dealing with my Ridgid R4513 crappy fence that causes me to spend tons of time fixing cut drift.
They do give you the size of a hex nut that works in T-slots. If you measure the top and bottom of your fence you will find the top is narrow...aka the fence has a slight taper bottom to top. So you fix the left side and the right will be way off. Mine is 0.025 cm different. So I set it straight and put 3 pieces of tape on my sacrificial fence. My big question is did you have any trouble with the fence? People complain the nylon comes off. OBW cost is now $1500 when you include shipping or by direct from HD and no shipping:). I put bench dog router wing on because I was tired of my home made stuff not having perfect miter slots (even strore bought)
As of today (4/5/22), the sale price is $1,371.70 + $229 Freight. The non-sale price is $1595. Final price with 5% off coupon and lift gate service is $1,681.62. I wish I could go back to 2018!
I am considering buying this saw. Comparing to a Laguna f1 this seems to be the better saw for the money. Unfortunately on sale this saw here in Canada sold under the craftex name will cost me around $2300 to the door. Inflation sucks.
I've had this saw for 3 years too, it was missing all the screws that hold the back panel on right from the factory, but my stickers are all on. My cast iron is pretty thrashed, I've set a lot of things on it and there are a lot of rusty spots, I spray it with some generic ACE brand spray lube that is like boesheild. My blade isn't perpendicular to the table anymore when set to zero degree tilt and it wobbles a bit so I need to adjust that, not sure how it got out of whack.
I have the same saw... I was looking through the manual today because I ran into the same scenario - it states to use M6-1 Nuts with M6 bolts. I called them and they had no idea what to do for the T-Slot solution.
Hi Matt, love your channel. I have similar tastes as you for tool brands. I’m a huge Wen fan as well and a Grizzly tablesaw fan. With that being said. My tablesaw is fairly one year old. Have you any issues with the fence moving when you lock it down? To this day and so frustrating is I cannot rely on just moving the fence to my desired mark to cut without checking each and every time if it is square or not. The blade is square to the slots and fence is square at 90 degrees. Time consuming for sure. I’m just a part time woodworker but would like to use my saw without checking for squareness each time I move the fence. I’m hoping you get to read this comment and if so would give some advice please? Thank you much in advance… Raymond…
Great review. I am about to buy this saw to replace my 30 year old Craftsman. The fence seems crappy like most on saws in this price range. I have a Delta T-Square fence that I will probably move from my Craftsman to this saw. I was also hoping for improved dust collection but I read the duct collection on this and most other hybrid or cabinets is not good.
I think the stock fence is fine, but the Delta fence would def be an upgrade. Dust collection is also fine, but since there are openings under the table where it meets the cabinet, and also an opening for the blade angle crank, the air isn’t sucked straight through the throat plate where the dust is created. I’ve seen a RUclips video where someone CNCd a piece to plug up the blade angle hole, and I’ve also considered plugging up the gaps at the top with styrofoam, but I always forget to do that.
@@NotThatMattNagy Good to know. It is on backorder until June 24, so I am just going wait until they have them in stock before ordering. I think maybe the price went up too, it's now $1150.
How does the fence hold up against deflection? The fence may be parallel to the blade when just sitting there, but of course that's not how a rip fence is used - when cutting, you push a board up againt the fence. Would seem an important measurement is how much, or little, the fence deflects when a side load is applied. Especially so where a fence is supported on only one end.
Remember that the side load is almost always applied against the portion of the fence that is before the blade and close to the clamp. If you have the right amount of clamping pressure, and you aren’t pushing against the fence with all your might, it shouldn’t deflect much at all at that point since the leverage is low. Best I can give you is that I haven’t noticed anything in my cuts that would suggest deflection, like pinching on the blade or cuts with differing widths on either end.
@@NotThatMattNagy Nice to hear. The fence on my old tablesaw deflected some in use, requiring I clamp the back side of the fence. Has me a bit concerned about fences that clamp only on the front. Grizzly & ShopFox fences seem well rated, but nobody ever mentions deflection . . . a flexing fence is the primary reason I'm retiring my 75yr old Craftsman saw.
@@staceyjenkins6242 Amen! I can deal with just about any table saw deficiency EXCEPT problems with fence alignment (consistent distance from blade to fence) and deflection.
disculpa quiero comprara una igual a esa que tienes yo soy de medio y estoy checando como traerla me piden el tañamos de la caja o empaque renquee viene tu podrías ayudarme mas o menos cuanto mide la caja em la que viene empacada?
Hey Matt, great review! Have you cut any relatively thick hardwoods (i.e. Walnut) with this saw? How has the performance and cuts been? Also do you think this would be possible to use outside assuming you have the right voltage to run it? My sheds a bit small which is what got me thinking about a mobile hybrid saw in the first place. Thanks again!
I'm leaning toward this saw or either the Shop Fox W1837, which appears to be a little more mobile. I will have to move the saw pretty much every time I use it due to limited space. Any thoughts or advice? Thanks! And great job on both of these videos!
I think I may have replied to another commenter with this same question but I think the Shop Fox is a good choice, the specs are more or less the same as the Grizzly, plus it is a few bucks cheaper than the Grizzly with a built in mobile base
Can you tell me the exact table height I just ordered this table saw and would like to build a catch bench for it? Thank you for the video that made up my mind.
I don’t know offhand but I think that information is in the manual, which should be available online. Also, mine is on a mobile base which makes it higher.
It’s 1250 + 179 shipping + taxes. Looking at 1500 hundred for a saw that was 1k two years ago. Inflation, covid, politicians are screwing everything up.
I have the predecessor to this saw (G0715P) that I bought in about 2011. It has steel rails and doesn't have the track fence, but otherwise the "same." Once I dialed in the fence, it held very well. I am still very happy with my choice, over 10 years later.
This fence absolutely blows. It's so easy to send it out of alignment. That bearing that runs along parallel to the tape measure, is god awful. I hate this fence. Why on earth when I'm spending 1500 on a table saw is it not rack and pinion? That's the only acceptable option for all table saws over 1000. If they can do it on 300 dollar portable ones, they can do it here too. I love mine too, but the fence drives me nuts.
I just purchased this saw in March of 2024. I haven't used it very much yet, but so far it seems like a great saw. My previous table saw was a Ridgid TS3612 contractor saw. It worked great, but after my grandfather passed away the family decided they wanted his old shop tools...ok fine, that means I'm buying what I want LOL. So I went from a contractor saw to a hybrid cabinet saw....the Ridgid table saw extension wings weren't solid cast iron, they had crosshatch type holes throughout them, so things would fall through, or get caught in those cutouts. The Grizzly G0771Z has solid cast iron extension wings, making for a very nice smooth table top...plenty of power, although its only 1/4HP more than the Ridgid TS3612's 1.75HP, even it did everything I asked of it, even hardwoods it didn't struggle with...so I doubt the Grizzly will have any issues with the same type of usage.
Once I got the saw assembled and setup, I cleaned all the shipping grease off and then I applied a coat of paste wax to the table.
I’ve had the same saw now for about 8 months and love it. You are totally right about it not being a production saw. I’m an experienced hobby woodworker and don’t need all that power. A sharp blade can compensate for the lack of power. I’ve never had a problem with hardwoods like white oak, bloodwood, purpleheart, & bubinga. I do have 2 minor issues ... that plastic push stick should be thrown away. If you’ve ever had a spinning blade hit a plastic push stick ... it shatters. 2nd issue is the rip fence grooves. When cutting a 45° or probably any angle a portion of the cut ends up in the grooves making the measurement scale worthless.
What I added was a flip up/down outfeed table which is a fabulous addition. I also put my MLCS router table on the left side to compensate for the U-Turn router lift.
I also broke my push stick in a similar fashion. Plus they really should be used in pairs anyways, so one isn’t enough. I haven’t really encountered the fence groove issue though.
this saw must be huge, look how small that lawnmower looks sitting beside it
These are the best kind of comments😅
Another nice video. One thing though, when measuring from the miter slot to the blade you need to measure at the same spot on the blade. Reason being, the arbor and or blade can have runout. To eliminate any blade runout in your measurement just use a sharpe and mark a spot on the blade. Only measure at that spot. This will be a true mitre slot to blade measurement.
Yeah, weirdly enough I did it that way albeit via a different method on my first video but didn’t do it here. You’re right, that would be the true accurate measurement.
Thank you for a great review. Well done. One point of interest; when checking alignment of the blade to the miter slots, keep in mind most blades are not perfect and will give an inaccurate reading....I checked about 6 of my blades and none were perfect, plus you are only measuring a few inches. a better system is to attach an arm to the arbor that will swing forward and back giving you a greater distance to check. I like the convenient alignment adjusting on this saw...on my old saw the trunion is bolted to the table underneath which requires some heavy gymnastics. The only thing I DON'T like is the fence; if you push on the end you get some play One last critique; On squaring the fence...Framing squares are not square, always check and adjust your framing square (YT will tell you how). I usually kick out my fence a few thou away from the blade-doesn't affect the cut and helps reduce kickback.Thanks again for a great review!....I'm going buy one!
I hope you didn't chase a couple thousands on the blade alignment. That is very good within a tolerance. It would only make the cut slightly wider and you'd find any saw, Powermatic, Saw Stop or Laguna will have similar number. My measurement showed the two miter slots on my (brand new) G0771 are not perfect. One side is 2 thousands different than the other
Thanks for posting this video. I found it very informative.
I have a Dewalt job site saw and have been thinking of upgrading. One of the things that holds me back is the rack and pinion fence. It is bulletproof in terms of being consistent, easy to adjust. I heard you say the fence on your saw requires some attention to TLC. Glad to hear that overall you are happy with your upgrade.
Very nice video. Thanks for the information. I was looking at this saw last week and not including any tax or lift gate fee, it’ll cost $1671.00 delivered. And that’s on sale.
Great videos, i just recvd this saw and wonder what the secret is to getting the fence to slide so easily. Mine drags a bit, and when clamping the back end of the fence slightly pulls left.
Great video review, just like the other! I was thinking about this saw but will purchase now thanks to the info ive gleamed from you.
Thanks for such a thorough and informative review. You have good insights and clear/accurate explanations. The aluminum fence rail is also a worry of mine, to the point that I've mostly ruled out any saw that has a cam-lever fence that doesn't clamp against steel. You say there's barely any wear on the rail, but have you confirmed that the accuracy of the fence hasn't been affected? If there's really no reason to worry about it, then that could save picky dinguses like me a bit of money when saw-shopping. Cheers!
I really appreciate your review of this Grizzly, especially the comments on the fence. I don't want to give any fence "...this system needs a lot o TLC to work properly...." gives me considerable pause before purchasing this model.
I want a spot-on, dead accurate fence if I'm paying around $1,200 for a table saw. I can deal with blowing out the dust and doing some lubrication if needed from time to time. I am dealing with my Ridgid R4513 crappy fence that causes me to spend tons of time fixing cut drift.
They do give you the size of a hex nut that works in T-slots. If you measure the top and bottom of your fence you will find the top is narrow...aka the fence has a slight taper bottom to top. So you fix the left side and the right will be way off. Mine is 0.025 cm different. So I set it straight and put 3 pieces of tape on my sacrificial fence. My big question is did you have any trouble with the fence? People complain the nylon comes off. OBW cost is now $1500 when you include shipping or by direct from HD and no shipping:). I put bench dog router wing on because I was tired of my home made stuff not having perfect miter slots (even strore bought)
As of today (4/5/22), the sale price is $1,371.70 + $229 Freight. The non-sale price is $1595. Final price with 5% off coupon and lift gate service is $1,681.62. I wish I could go back to 2018!
I am considering buying this saw. Comparing to a Laguna f1 this seems to be the better saw for the money. Unfortunately on sale this saw here in Canada sold under the craftex name will cost me around $2300 to the door. Inflation sucks.
I've had this saw for 3 years too, it was missing all the screws that hold the back panel on right from the factory, but my stickers are all on. My cast iron is pretty thrashed, I've set a lot of things on it and there are a lot of rusty spots, I spray it with some generic ACE brand spray lube that is like boesheild. My blade isn't perpendicular to the table anymore when set to zero degree tilt and it wobbles a bit so I need to adjust that, not sure how it got out of whack.
I have the same saw... I was looking through the manual today because I ran into the same scenario - it states to use M6-1 Nuts with M6 bolts. I called them and they had no idea what to do for the T-Slot solution.
Maybe if enough people bitch about it to them, they’ll break down and start manufacturing some t slot bolts.
For the best saw blades you will ever use try Matsushita. Most likely have to order them but there is no substitute.
Hi Matt, love your channel. I have similar tastes as you for tool brands. I’m a huge Wen fan as well and a Grizzly tablesaw fan. With that being said. My tablesaw is fairly one year old. Have you any issues with the fence moving when you lock it down? To this day and so frustrating is I cannot rely on just moving the fence to my desired mark to cut without checking each and every time if it is square or not. The blade is square to the slots and fence is square at 90 degrees. Time consuming for sure. I’m just a part time woodworker but would like to use my saw without checking for squareness each time I move the fence. I’m hoping you get to read this comment and if so would give some advice please? Thank you much in advance… Raymond…
Great review. I am about to buy this saw to replace my 30 year old Craftsman. The fence seems crappy like most on saws in this price range. I have a Delta T-Square fence that I will probably move from my Craftsman to this saw. I was also hoping for improved dust collection but I read the duct collection on this and most other hybrid or cabinets is not good.
I think the stock fence is fine, but the Delta fence would def be an upgrade. Dust collection is also fine, but since there are openings under the table where it meets the cabinet, and also an opening for the blade angle crank, the air isn’t sucked straight through the throat plate where the dust is created. I’ve seen a RUclips video where someone CNCd a piece to plug up the blade angle hole, and I’ve also considered plugging up the gaps at the top with styrofoam, but I always forget to do that.
@@NotThatMattNagy Good to know. It is on backorder until June 24, so I am just going wait until they have them in stock before ordering. I think maybe the price went up too, it's now $1150.
How does the fence hold up against deflection? The fence may be parallel to the blade when just sitting there, but of course that's not how a rip fence is used - when cutting, you push a board up againt the fence. Would seem an important measurement is how much, or little, the fence deflects when a side load is applied. Especially so where a fence is supported on only one end.
Remember that the side load is almost always applied against the portion of the fence that is before the blade and close to the clamp. If you have the right amount of clamping pressure, and you aren’t pushing against the fence with all your might, it shouldn’t deflect much at all at that point since the leverage is low. Best I can give you is that I haven’t noticed anything in my cuts that would suggest deflection, like pinching on the blade or cuts with differing widths on either end.
@@NotThatMattNagy Nice to hear. The fence on my old tablesaw deflected some in use, requiring I clamp the back side of the fence. Has me a bit concerned about fences that clamp only on the front. Grizzly & ShopFox fences seem well rated, but nobody ever mentions deflection . . . a flexing fence is the primary reason I'm retiring my 75yr old Craftsman saw.
@@staceyjenkins6242 Amen! I can deal with just about any table saw deficiency EXCEPT problems with fence alignment (consistent distance from blade to fence) and deflection.
It's about $1400 nowadays....Would you consider putting a Biesemeyer fence and rail on this saw?
disculpa quiero comprara una igual a esa que tienes yo soy de medio y estoy checando como traerla me piden el tañamos de la caja o empaque renquee viene tu podrías ayudarme mas o menos cuanto mide la caja em la que viene empacada?
Hey Matt, great review! Have you cut any relatively thick hardwoods (i.e. Walnut) with this saw? How has the performance and cuts been?
Also do you think this would be possible to use outside assuming you have the right voltage to run it? My sheds a bit small which is what got me thinking about a mobile hybrid saw in the first place. Thanks again!
I'm leaning toward this saw or either the Shop Fox W1837, which appears to be a little more mobile. I will have to move the saw pretty much every time I use it due to limited space. Any thoughts or advice? Thanks! And great job on both of these videos!
I think I may have replied to another commenter with this same question but I think the Shop Fox is a good choice, the specs are more or less the same as the Grizzly, plus it is a few bucks cheaper than the Grizzly with a built in mobile base
Good info, Thx!
Can you tell me the exact table height I just ordered this table saw and would like to build a catch bench for it?
Thank you for the video that made up my mind.
I don’t know offhand but I think that information is in the manual, which should be available online. Also, mine is on a mobile base which makes it higher.
Thank you for the reply. I wanted to build a table before mine got here. Thank you for the response. Great work by the way.
i was just wandering if you still had this saw and if not which kind of saw would you perfer
Still have this saw, still happy with it.
It’s 1250 + 179 shipping + taxes. Looking at 1500 hundred for a saw that was 1k two years ago.
Inflation, covid, politicians are screwing everything up.
I have the predecessor to this saw (G0715P) that I bought in about 2011. It has steel rails and doesn't have the track fence, but otherwise the "same." Once I dialed in the fence, it held very well. I am still very happy with my choice, over 10 years later.
This fence absolutely blows. It's so easy to send it out of alignment. That bearing that runs along parallel to the tape measure, is god awful. I hate this fence. Why on earth when I'm spending 1500 on a table saw is it not rack and pinion? That's the only acceptable option for all table saws over 1000. If they can do it on 300 dollar portable ones, they can do it here too. I love mine too, but the fence drives me nuts.
How is it that the same saw has gone up another $600 in less than a year? That is way above the already bad inflation rates... what's going on here?
This saw is now above $1.3k
tax freight & lift gate 1,234. 2022 nov