The Benefits from having Your tutorials; and the times that you’ve just passed on your passion/ love for Carving are priceless. You and Zed are such Excellent instructors,,, but more than that,, Your Teachers,,!!!!! Iam going to have to make a trip to the UK,, just to see all my Carving icons,,,!!!! His Blessings,,, Joshua
Great and really useful overview. Many thanks. I'm in tbe process of purchasing a saw for spoon carving. I was looking at the Japanese saws. They seem to have a finer tooth and therefore good for making stop cuts etc on billets, but are they capable of sawing through branches/logs the way a Silky folding saw can? Subscribed 👍 Thanks again.
A lot of readily available Japanese saws tend to have finer teeth designed for more precise cuts through dry wood. Silky saws are designed for cutting logs, so they'll be a lot more aggressive, cutting quicker through green logs.
I have the Mora 106 and find it is too much knife. Best to wrap the bottom of the blade with a lot of tape and leave only an inch &1/4 to 1 1/2" edge exposed.
I suppose it depends on the kind of carving you're doing. It's a lot easier to control a shorter blade, so if you're concerned about injuring yourself it sounds like you've found a good solution. For spoon carving, have a long blade is useful for controlled slicing cuts, but those kind of cuts do take a lot of practice to get right. Glad you've found something that works.
Please if anyone see's I'd suggest you just strop your carving tools regularly with chromium oxide on leather as you shouldn't need to actually sharpen your tools if you look after them and keep on top of it and if anything you should go find a good/flat old combination oil stone as they work slower than whetstones and they're like £10-20 for a descent one plus you won't be able to plough a trench into it like a fancy experience whetstone
or better yet, throw the chromium out and use diamond paste. MUCH more effective. Use a 3 to 6 micron diamond paste, and apply to your strop or you can just put it on a wood block as a strop. less chance of rounding the edge over.
The Benefits from having Your tutorials; and the times that you’ve just passed on your passion/ love for Carving are priceless. You and Zed are such Excellent instructors,,, but more than that,, Your Teachers,,!!!!!
Iam going to have to make a trip to the UK,, just to see all my Carving icons,,,!!!! His Blessings,,,
Joshua
Well said!
Just ordered the Green Haven, wouldn't have heard about it if it wasn't for your video.
Glad to be of service!
Thank you for this very informative and insightful video. I enjoy watching you carve, you make it look so easy. Thanks for sharing.
Good advice for anyone wanting to start carving. Have had mora knives for years. Buy the blades and make your own handles.
Nice job Tom.
Cheers mate
Very helpful review.
Thanks for the info!
You're welcome!
Everybody says you shouldn't sand your spoons. I sanded my first two spoons and will probably carry on doing it.
Do whatever works for you.
Great and really useful overview. Many thanks. I'm in tbe process of purchasing a saw for spoon carving. I was looking at the Japanese saws. They seem to have a finer tooth and therefore good for making stop cuts etc on billets, but are they capable of sawing through branches/logs the way a Silky folding saw can? Subscribed 👍 Thanks again.
A lot of readily available Japanese saws tend to have finer teeth designed for more precise cuts through dry wood. Silky saws are designed for cutting logs, so they'll be a lot more aggressive, cutting quicker through green logs.
I have the Mora 106 and find it is too much knife. Best to wrap the bottom of the blade with a lot of tape and leave only an inch &1/4 to 1 1/2" edge exposed.
I suppose it depends on the kind of carving you're doing. It's a lot easier to control a shorter blade, so if you're concerned about injuring yourself it sounds like you've found a good solution. For spoon carving, have a long blade is useful for controlled slicing cuts, but those kind of cuts do take a lot of practice to get right. Glad you've found something that works.
👍👍👍👍
Please if anyone see's I'd suggest you just strop your carving tools regularly with chromium oxide on leather as you shouldn't need to actually sharpen your tools if you look after them and keep on top of it and if anything you should go find a good/flat old combination oil stone as they work slower than whetstones and they're like £10-20 for a descent one plus you won't be able to plough a trench into it like a fancy experience whetstone
or better yet, throw the chromium out and use diamond paste. MUCH more effective. Use a 3 to 6 micron diamond paste, and apply to your strop or you can just put it on a wood block as a strop. less chance of rounding the edge over.
I think I made some mistakes buying my first tools. Not completely wrong, but yes. Great video
I hope the video didn't make you feel too bad about your tool choices!
@@SylvaSpoonvideos it's not too bad. I think it's part of the process too. 😁👍
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