Great video, thanks for sharing your ideas. This was a straight fordward idea without making things too complicated. Seems to work well with the style you show in the video, where the circles are cut from a glued striped board, not from segments cut in a radiant pattern. Subscribed! Best, Saara
I realise this is an older video, but it might help if you cut a slot in the clamping piece. that way you can slide it on from the side and you don't have to remove the wing nut anymore since the rings can pass over it.
I have been trying to think how to do what you just did there. Because, I knew there had to be an easier way the glue. dry, glue, dry. That is a perfect way to do that. Thank you
I've tried gluing a piece of cardboard across the inside of each ring so that I can drill a hole in the center point and then struggle less trying to get each ring aligned perfectly when gluing.
Rob that is an awesome jig. I do have a suggestion though that could make it a little faster. I use a similar jig to glue up bowls and I use what I call a wobble nut which is a star knob that will slide down a threaded rod at an angle and then when it hits your plywood and straightens up the threads engage and you can tighten it. Let me know and I’ll send you more info on them. I might get back in to segment bowl if I make this jig tho hose clamps make it no fun.
The wobble nut sounds like a time saver. I did some searching but couldn't come up with anything, so any info you can provide would be great. Thanks dude!!!
Just getting started with segmenting. I've built my wedge sled and now got to have one of these. Thanks for the vid. My channel is new and is just starting to build so come visit when you have time.
I did the same thing using finishing nails for the pegs and put a perfect (ha) right angle lip in the corner for cutting board glue ups - I use wedges on the other two sides
Nice way to put the rubber bands on and center your rings for glue up. I have found it is easier and quicker to use industrial sized zip ties to clamp my rings together, all you have to do is use a pick to release the tang on the zip tie to open it up for reuse. A 36" zip tie is good up to 11" for a bowl and a 48" is good for a 16" bowl, if you need to go bigger just daisy chain the zip ties together.
Great jig ! Would it not be easier to release the rubber bands onto the segments by pulling the pins out one by one instead of trying to slide the rubber bands off of the pins. Thanks for your post. I'm going to make one in the near future
Hi. I don't have a problem with the rubber bands holding the rings together for inspection but I would be nervous using them instead of hose clamps. You're right. They are clumsy and tedious but they crank down well. Do you find the rubber bands as clamps give enough clamping force to survive the pressure during turning?
The rubber bands do very well. Of course I have different sizes so that they are always tight enough, and some of my bands are long enough to double. I encourage you to watch this video to see how well it works and see the end product. ruclips.net/video/4dt-CgewKAA/видео.html
Just curious how you lined up the various different color woods you used in the rings you glued up in the video. It didn't look like they were perfectly lined up and, for some pieces that would be absolutely essential.
In my experience, once you have the rings where you want them, they won't move. The clamping pressure comes from the center so tightening doesn't cause movement. Remember I made the base very thick. This keeps the carriage bolt used for the clamp straight up and down - no wobbling.
Like your jig idea very much. Wanted to ask about using 3/8” peg board. Have some left in garage noted holes are predrilled on 1” centers. Could I use this predrilled template on top of the 3/4” plywood sheets? I know it maybe difficult to draw the lines and circles. Appreciate your thoughts. And please continue the tutorials! Thank you.
The issue I see with the pegboard is the thickness. I'm not sure that 3/8" will support the tension of the rubber bands if you are gluing segments together. Plus, pegboard material is soft compared to solid wood, so after a relatively short time, the holes will expand, decreasing the support for the legs even further
Rob, great jig I will have to copy it. Have you had any problems with the layers slipping and sliding while being clamped? I like the simplicity of using 1 jig to accomplish multiple tasks. Thanks for sharing.
They might slip a little, but it is greatly reduced. If you use the drawn circles on the jig to center the first piece, then center the remaining layers based on the first layer, it is incredibly stable. The clamping pressure coming from the exact center makes it easy. That's one reason for the thickness of the jig- it makes the clamping bolt stay in place and not wobble from side to side.
Anyone have a good source to buy thick rubber bands in a variety of sizes? I looked on Amazon and they only sell them in all one size (usually 3.5") and usually you need to by a million bands. Thanks!
Rob, it looks to me like when you drew the lines and divided the square into the wedges all the wedges aren't necessarily equal in size, so that when you drew the circles all the segments in each ring are not equal. Just want some clarification.
I'm a little confused by the question. Are you asking about the drawn ring on the jig not matching the actual rings being glued? Or the holes not lining up? The jig has two functions, gluing the segments into rings, and gluing rings together to form a crude bowl ready for turning. The holes are for pegs that I use to hold large rubber bands. Once I get glue on my wedges (placed within pegs that are just a bit larger than the ring will actually be, then I systematically release the rubber band and the wedges should pretty much center themselves. Once the rings are dry and sanded, I use the rings drawn on the jig to center the largest ring, and place the other rings pretty much just using my eye. But starting the largest ring centered on the jig allows for even clamping pressure from the center bolt. Does this answer your question?
@@FranklinWoodWorks2016 my question is that when you drew the lines dividing the square into the pizza slices the angular separation of some of the lines don't all look identical, thus affecting some of the segment widths. Maybe my old eyes are just off. It is a great jig and obviously works well.
@@braytonbailey3782 I get it now. Those lines were just rough lines for the placement of the holes for the pegs. They should have no bearing on the wedges at all.
why not make the top clamping block as big as the baseplate, then drill each corner so you can add a coachbolt on the corners. Then after clamping the dentre bolt, additional clamping pressure could be added st the corners to add more even pressure on the glued segments resulting in a better bond.
Great video and I'm making that same jig right now. One question I have, though, is how do I center the rings when I am doing something that is not just large to small? For example, I want to do some bowls that kind of wave a bit, but can't figure out how to get them centered. Any thoughts?
Well, lining things up perfect is on the user. The jig gives you enough reference to do it very well. If the rings slide sideways during clamping, then the rings are not uniform thickness - again this goes back to the user.
I have an idea for that. When you get ready to start stacking the rings, but before gluing, insert short dowels into the widest holes that will fit inside the ring to be glued. Use ever longer dowels as the bowl or vase increase in hight. That should keep everything pretty close even if they aren't tight it will minimize the amount of sliding.
Centering is important, starting with the base, trace the first ring equality to the base, once all segments are of equal distances to the round base, I glue,dry, etc. Until all the rings are stacked. Thanks. Chuck
Interesting approach. I currently use hose clamps and so far have had good luck with them but may give your method a try. For clamping I use a Longworth type fixture and Dennis Edwards Stomper. Check out WoodworkersPro.com. BTW, your production is quite good. Excellent video and audio. Good narration. Thanks for sharing.
Simplicity and intelligence, mahe it looks easy to do, bravo !
Great video, thanks for sharing your ideas. This was a straight fordward idea without making things too complicated. Seems to work well with the style you show in the video, where the circles are cut from a glued striped board, not from segments cut in a radiant pattern. Subscribed! Best, Saara
GREAT JIG! I drilled 1/8" holes 1/2' deep, cut pins 1" long. Rubber bands roll off the pins and center on 1" thick rings!
Thanks for that A1+ video. Heading for my shop to build one
As a beginner this has saved me so much hassle. Thank you.
That’s a great idea and a really simple jig. Need to make one now..... Thank you.
I realise this is an older video, but it might help if you cut a slot in the clamping piece. that way you can slide it on from the side and you don't have to remove the wing nut anymore since the rings can pass over it.
Great idea!
Very sime and straight forward. Thanks.
Man that is a ingenious idea. Great job and great video.
Just starting to research segmented turning. Thanks for the vid
Fantastic idea, makes sense whichever way you look at it. I’m going to make one definitely. Cheers, Sean
Now that is a great, simple jig. Thanks for sharing.
I have been trying to think how to do what you just did there. Because, I knew there had to be an easier way the glue. dry, glue, dry. That is a perfect way to do that. Thank you
I've tried gluing a piece of cardboard across the inside of each ring so that I can drill a hole in the center point and then struggle less trying to get each ring aligned perfectly when gluing.
Thank you! prior to drilling the peg holes, suggest adding a clear piece of plastic or lexan. One screw in each corner should keep plastic in place
That is a great idea! Thank you!
A top piece in formica solves a lot of problems too.
Rob that is an awesome jig. I do have a suggestion though that could make it a little faster. I use a similar jig to glue up bowls and I use what I call a wobble nut which is a star knob that will slide down a threaded rod at an angle and then when it hits your plywood and straightens up the threads engage and you can tighten it. Let me know and I’ll send you more info on them. I might get back in to segment bowl if I make this jig tho hose clamps make it no fun.
I'd like to see the info on the "wobble nut" too. Sounds like it could be very useful in many applications.
The wobble nut sounds like a time saver. I did some searching but couldn't come up with anything, so any info you can provide would be great. Thanks dude!!!
@@FranklinWoodWorks2016 Rockler carries one in three sizes, called quick-release nuts.
This jig is a good idea. One issue it does not address: the rings must be flat. Maybe there is another jig to get the rings flat ?
Not exactly a jig. If you'll take a look at this video, at 5:11 you'll see how I get them flat. ruclips.net/video/oIkPX_S2XQI/видео.html
Such an awesome jig...love it!
Just getting started with segmenting. I've built my wedge sled and now got to have one of these. Thanks for the vid. My channel is new and is just starting to build so come visit when you have time.
I did the same thing using finishing nails for the pegs and put a perfect (ha) right angle lip in the corner for cutting board glue ups - I use wedges on the other two sides
Very well thought out... Great Job
GREAT VIDEO. Thanks for sharing. I am motivated to make the jig.
Great job!😎
I will shurly use your idea!
Thanks so much for share this, very helpful.
Brilliant!
Great video
Simple and beautiful!
Nice way to put the rubber bands on and center your rings for glue up. I have found it is easier and quicker to use industrial sized zip ties to clamp my rings together, all you have to do is use a pick to release the tang on the zip tie to open it up for reuse. A 36" zip tie is good up to 11" for a bowl and a 48" is good for a 16" bowl, if you need to go bigger just daisy chain the zip ties together.
What a great idea!
Great job Rob. I need one of those. Now what do I do with all of the hose clamps I have. :-)
Très bonne idée 👍👍👍
I had same issues with hose clamps segments where hard to keep lined up thanks for this post subbed
Good and educational video. You have a thumps up !!
Whats the make of that drill press?
Great jig ! Would it not be easier to release the rubber bands onto the segments by pulling the pins out one by one instead of trying to slide the rubber bands off of the pins. Thanks for your post. I'm going to make one in the near future
Thumbs up just because you're my superman and the shirt proves it.
Ken
This is a good idea for a 16 pc ring. If you want a 24 pc ring do you need to build another jig?
Hi. I don't have a problem with the rubber bands holding the rings together for inspection but I would be nervous using them instead of hose clamps. You're right. They are clumsy and tedious but they crank down well. Do you find the rubber bands as clamps give enough clamping force to survive the pressure during turning?
The rubber bands do very well. Of course I have different sizes so that they are always tight enough, and some of my bands are long enough to double. I encourage you to watch this video to see how well it works and see the end product. ruclips.net/video/4dt-CgewKAA/видео.html
Just curious how you lined up the various different color woods you used in the rings you glued up in the video. It didn't look like they were perfectly lined up and, for some pieces that would be absolutely essential.
Interesting, I'm probably going to have to make one of these. Thanks for the info.
A counter top sink cutout would be perfect for something like this.
Great idea, but how do you keep the rings
from sliding out of perfect position?
In my experience, once you have the rings where you want them, they won't move. The clamping pressure comes from the center so tightening doesn't cause movement. Remember I made the base very thick. This keeps the carriage bolt used for the clamp straight up and down - no wobbling.
OK, I will build this jig, I already use the rubber bands, but I still have trouble with centering, which is critical. Thanks Chuck
@@chuckbell2949 I had the same question, Wondering as you stack the rings, how you keep them centered.
@@FranklinWoodWorks2016 After putting the glue on the rings, sprinkle salt on the glue and the rings won't move.
Like your jig idea very much. Wanted to ask about using 3/8” peg board. Have some left in garage noted holes are predrilled on 1” centers. Could I use this predrilled template on top of the 3/4” plywood sheets? I know it maybe difficult to draw the lines and circles. Appreciate your thoughts. And please continue the tutorials! Thank you.
The issue I see with the pegboard is the thickness. I'm not sure that 3/8" will support the tension of the rubber bands if you are gluing segments together. Plus, pegboard material is soft compared to solid wood, so after a relatively short time, the holes will expand, decreasing the support for the legs even further
Rob, great jig I will have to copy it. Have you had any problems with the layers slipping and sliding while being clamped? I like the simplicity of using 1 jig to accomplish multiple tasks. Thanks for sharing.
They might slip a little, but it is greatly reduced. If you use the drawn circles on the jig to center the first piece, then center the remaining layers based on the first layer, it is incredibly stable. The clamping pressure coming from the exact center makes it easy. That's one reason for the thickness of the jig- it makes the clamping bolt stay in place and not wobble from side to side.
Anyone have a good source to buy thick rubber bands in a variety of sizes? I looked on Amazon and they only sell them in all one size (usually 3.5") and usually you need to by a million bands. Thanks!
I got mine on Amazon. I just did a search for long rubber bands (not LARGE rubber bands) and several things came up. Hope this helps!
@@FranklinWoodWorks2016 Cool Thank you! I already made my jig!
Rob, it looks to me like when you drew the lines and divided the square into the wedges all the wedges aren't necessarily equal in size, so that when you drew the circles all the segments in each ring are not equal. Just want some clarification.
I'm a little confused by the question. Are you asking about the drawn ring on the jig not matching the actual rings being glued? Or the holes not lining up? The jig has two functions, gluing the segments into rings, and gluing rings together to form a crude bowl ready for turning. The holes are for pegs that I use to hold large rubber bands. Once I get glue on my wedges (placed within pegs that are just a bit larger than the ring will actually be, then I systematically release the rubber band and the wedges should pretty much center themselves. Once the rings are dry and sanded, I use the rings drawn on the jig to center the largest ring, and place the other rings pretty much just using my eye. But starting the largest ring centered on the jig allows for even clamping pressure from the center bolt. Does this answer your question?
@@FranklinWoodWorks2016 my question is that when you drew the lines dividing the square into the pizza slices the angular separation of some of the lines don't all look identical, thus affecting some of the segment widths. Maybe my old eyes are just off. It is a great jig and obviously works well.
@@braytonbailey3782 I get it now. Those lines were just rough lines for the placement of the holes for the pegs. They should have no bearing on the wedges at all.
Where would you purchase rubber-bands large enough to go around a 16 inch ring. I have looked on Amazon to no avail.
Go to Amazon and search in Office Products for "Alliance Rubber 08994 SuperSize Bands." You'll find everything you need.
Outstanding! How did you get those rings so thin though toward the end of the video? Were they that thin as segments first?
No sir, I glued up several 1" thick rings and sliced them with a band saw.
@@FranklinWoodWorks2016 Sliced them with a band saw? Man, you must have a large saw AND calibrated perfectly. Very impressive sir! Very nicely done.
awesome jig ill be making one tomorrow. has anyone ever said you sound like jeff bridges?
About a 100 times. It's either Jeff Bridges or Billy Bob Thornton. No one ever comments that I look like Brad Pitt. Go figure.
unrelated but how do you get such thin rings?
Great looking jig Friend! looks like it works good! Thanks for sharing the video with us. 👍😎JP
why not make the top clamping block as big as the baseplate, then drill each corner so you can add a coachbolt on the corners. Then after clamping the dentre bolt, additional clamping pressure could be added st the corners to add more even pressure on the glued segments resulting in a better bond.
FranklinWoodWorks
Very good !!!
Great video and I'm making that same jig right now. One question I have, though, is how do I center the rings when I am doing something that is not just large to small? For example, I want to do some bowls that kind of wave a bit, but can't figure out how to get them centered. Any thoughts?
Glueing the rings on top of one another won’t line up perfect the rings will be offset & slide to one side ??????
Well, lining things up perfect is on the user. The jig gives you enough reference to do it very well. If the rings slide sideways during clamping, then the rings are not uniform thickness - again this goes back to the user.
I have an idea for that. When you get ready to start stacking the rings, but before gluing, insert short dowels into the widest holes that will fit inside the ring to be glued. Use ever longer dowels as the bowl or vase increase in hight. That should keep everything pretty close even if they aren't tight it will minimize the amount of sliding.
You sound like the voiceover guy for Home Depot.
Centering is important, starting with the base, trace the first ring equality to the base, once all segments are of equal distances to the round base, I glue,dry, etc. Until all the rings are stacked. Thanks. Chuck
Interesting approach. I currently use hose clamps and so far have had good luck with them but may give your method a try. For clamping I use a Longworth type fixture and Dennis Edwards Stomper. Check out WoodworkersPro.com. BTW, your production is quite good. Excellent video and audio. Good narration. Thanks for sharing.
The link you gave didn't work, and typing it in manually doesn't work either. Can you try again?
woodturnerpro.com/
Great video will be making one for sure!