I’ve watched this video so many times & I love it. Thank you for the tutorial, I can’t afford a wind vane in the near future as ive had to buy so much other stuff. Brilliant
Ah! I've used the Letcher system on my boat, but never thought to adjust it's power by moving the line up or down the tiller. So obvious once it's pointed out. Thanks!
Sensational stuff, will certainly use this for sea journeys, thank you Captain! Love the size of your boat too, I've just bought a battered old 25 footer - just the right size to keep life simple! Cheerio!
I will test it for sure. Until now I didn't know how to use this system in down wind, but with your explanation, the elastic conected on both sides plus a rope conected at the genoa, I'm sure I have self-steering for every possibly angle. Thanks for share.
Wonderful and very didactic vídeo. Been searching the internet and youtube for self steering and this is the first vídeo with full explanation. Thank you for sharing SARAH with us!
Thank you for your comment Pedro. These methods work for me on Scallywag, but there are alternatives. Study the John Letcher chapters and try other methods if your deck and cockpit layout does not suit these.
scallywagII Try to add "sheet to tiller" to your video title in order to increase viewers. If you perform a search you will realize this steering method is named as "sheet to tiller".
You Sir have taught invaluable knowledge to me,so much appreciated,best wishes over the Christmas break,stay safe.I have recently purchased a 11m vessel that has the blocks in the same position and I was wondering why being a novice sailor,this sheds light on all of my questions,thank you.
Thank you for your comments. The blocks there may have been for spinnaker sheets, but by all means use them if they provide a clear lead. Sheet tension on an 11m sloop would be too great for this method except in very light winds. Check out STeLLA on my more recent videos for one solution. Many other options are outlined in the John Letcher book
scallywagII I can see the wear on the tiller,those blocks had to be used in the mix some how,she’s a blue water heavy displacement vessel with multiple poles for down wind reaching Im guessing,I’m new to this vessel and have only had 2x21ft light displacement yachts.Financially I don’t want to spend the money on the Hebridean system just yet but may go that way if I can’t master the sheet to tiller system.cheers and happy new year to you young fella from Oz.
Enjoyed yr video picked up yr good tips to improve my existing set up as i have used sheet to helm steering for a while. Have used thin inner bicycle inner tubes and some bungee but cant seem to get bungee with enough tension. Do you know a good source? Interesting yr comments about junkrig as i have another kingfisher 20 im converting to junk rig. Last summer i met Tom Haslar, blondie's son when sailing my sloop kingfisher he noticed my sheet to helm arrangement and i told him i was converting another one to junk after a good chat he gifted me his fathers prototype trim tab stainless steel windvane he built for his junk rig kingfisher " Pilmer". Although not fully complete its minus its servo blade, but its wonderful to own a piece of history!
I have always tide my tiller in this sort of way. The only thing I find is if I move from side to side in the boat it effects this. I also often reverse my tack. Then hove too. My boat is then so stables and more or less carries on the correct way while I rest up or eat.
yes this is more of a problem with smaller boats and lighter winds. If planning to go below for a rest, I found it best to sit on the same side while making adjustments as I would be resting below. I go into more detail about this and other matters on my later videos with EMU.
I got Letcher's book ten years ago, when I started sailing, single handed, and began using these techniques immediately. I try to get other single handers on to the idea, and they just don't get it . . . I think they get confused because its too simple, ha! Reminds me of that expression, "If it was complicated, everybody would be doing it." Thanks for the thorough explanation, im familiar with that subtle "slalom" effect. Ive used it to counter weather helm, and being drawn into shore. Hard to explain, but, one side of the "S" sailing pattern needs to be, longer and more "powered up", after falling off, which pulls the boat, each time, more windward, countering that push towards shore . . .) It's not a symmetrical "S" shape, if that makes sense. . Anyway, its so satisfying to see in action, i get all worked up! : ) . . .Also, remember Joshua Slocum, late 1800s, first solo circumnavigator, hand steered only three hours in 23 days, across the Indian Ocean: ) . . .had the wheel lashed, and boat very well balanced. Cheers!
I did 2,5 (a half, because my windvane broke halfway) singlehanded Atlantic crossings West to East this way. 28 to 30 days. Though downwind a little more challenging it works. Be patient, accept that you dont go full throttle.
start by reading the John Letcher book which you can download for free from the Jester Challenge site. My later videos on EMU show more detail about how to set up the system for each point of sail, why it works and how to tweak it so that it is reliable when the wind strength changes.
Yes different setups for different wind angles. The 3 newer videos from Jester Challenge 2018 give more details as to how to set up to work effectively and reliably when wind strength changes. The Letcher book is well worth studying.
Check out my later videos on EMU. These show better how I set the lines up. Also read the John Letcher book available for free download from the Jester website.
A multihull would be a challenge, Bill Belcher wrote a bit about it in Build your own wind vane steering. Often available for lots more than it's new price as limited number printed by 2018. Multihulls can accelerate fast hense the apparent wind isn't so good for wind vane steering though I have seen a video using 2 on 2 rudders looking remarkably good. Bill Belcher suggested the use of trailing a rope aft that would provide more usable pull with its increased drag when accelerating. This could stop the boat bearing away ( where the problem manifests) with helm till sheets ease. That's the basic theory.
It might be worth trying jibsheet to tiller on a broadreach with a multihull. The change in sheet loading with change of course is quite dramatic. The low apparent wind should not be a problem if the vane is the size of a genoa, which in this case it is. I have used this method when there was barely enough wind to keep a cruising chute full. It worked perfectly when a vane gear would not work at all. For windward or beam reaches, the change in weatherhelm due to heeling is largely what makes a monohull self-steer. With a multihull I can't see this happening, but it would cost nothing to try it.
@@scallywagII Thanks for your reply. The centre of effort usually determined predominantly by mast rake has I think a similar effect to the healing steering weather helm. A Dutch team from memory have a catamaran sheet steering almost on a run with 2 head sails on RUclips interesting but limited. Next find a multihull owner with a interest ... Another RUclipsing is from a 22ft Wharam Tiki winning the Jester Challenge from Plymouth to Newport. Boat had windvane but above 14 knots of boats peed it apparently stopped working.
@@EdSurridge My understanding is that the centre of effort relative to the centre of lateral resistance has an effect on helm. Weatherhelm can be increased by racking the mast aft or increasing mainsail / reducing headsail area. Under way heeling gives an asymetric underwater shape and this will steer the boat into the wind. This is why weatherhelm will increase with angle of heel. I have reefed the genoa on a long keel yacht and that has reduced weatherhelm, despite moving the centre of effort aft. I have better explained this on my more recent video on another yacht during the Jester Challenge 2018 ruclips.net/video/yKGTv4slZlg/видео.html The other two videos in that series cover different points of sail and show how to set up the bungee so that the self steering will be reliable in differing wind speeds.
@@scallywagII Thanks again, I missed the titles of your films as I binge watched them. They are very good value Sir. The Wharram's are certainly long keeled Catamarans those with specific foil might change maters. You have encouraged me to try finding Cat owners whom might have self steering interest.
Craig Martin Hi, thanks for your interest. About half way down the Jesterinfo start page there is a box with the links. It is just above an artoicle of the Observer Solo Transatlantic race. There is now the whole of John Letcher's book which I would reccommend reading right through.
im confused...so the first setup is with the wind more at your back and the second setup is when you are heading more toward the wind? Thanks in advance
It is much clearer on my 2018 challenge videos which I did in three parts for different points of sail. There is a better explanation of how to set up the system so that it will be reliable when the wind strength changes. It is worth putting in the time to study these in full and read the John Letcher book so that you get this right.
i have crossed the Atlantic using these methods, and not always light winds. See my other videos and the book that is linked to below for details of how to set up the bungee so that it works in all wind strengths.
Going to windward if you get a little weatherhelm, and that increases with more wind, then it may work with a bungee alone or lashed helm. For reaching courses you could use one end of the mainsheet pulling to weather against a bungee centering the tiller. In practice the extra friction and stretch in the multipart sheet means it might not be sensitive enough. Cost you nothing to try it though. I think Blondie Hasler may have developed his wind vane gears because of the difficulty getting sheet to tiller to work on a single sail junk rig. On a broad reach a jib could be set flying and should self steer reliably if set up correctly. Shape is not critical and you could pick up a suitably sized old jib very cheaply. See the more recent videos with Emu for better descriptions of setting up and read the John Letcher book. jesterchallenge.wordpress.com/articles/self-steering/
They may have been for spinnaker sheets, but use the existing arrangements. The arrangements for any particular boat is determined largely by the layout of the cockpit
Hey, do you know anyone who has achieved this with a junk rig? I have tried, but there is not enough force on the sheets to turn the wheel surficently. I used blocks, and as much leverage as practical, but if I increase the leverage too far then the movement is not enough.
It would be difficult with the stretch and friction of your multipart sheets. I think that may be why Blondie Hasler who developed Western Junk Rig also came up with the servo-pendulum vane gear. Going upwind a locked helm or bungee alone could be worth trying. Downwind it is possible to fit a jib flying and use that as the steering sail. Shape is not too important so a budget used sail could do. Alternatively try fitting the lower block of either junk sail sheet to a line with a single block where it would have been fitted, then to a turning block on the windward side. That way you have minimum friction so best chance of success. Post another comment when you have tried it. Good luck.
+stephen Webb Possibly it would work. Wheel adapters are made for some wind vane gears. Wheels introduce extra friction which is the enemy of all wind steering systems, with or without vanes. I have sailed to windward using the bungee around the spokes of a wheel and it kept a better course than an electronic autopilot. I haven't tried it on other points, but give it a go. Read the Letcher book for more ideas. www.kyoa.org.uk/jesterchallenge.htm Find the link about half way down the page.
@@scallywagII I built a horizontal vane with fishing line through plastic tubes going down to an auxiliary rudder with trim tab. Took me from Portugal to The Gambia and back up to Britain via The Canaries and Madeira.
@@scallywagII Before I built the wind vane I crossed Biscay with sheet to tiller, inner jib slightly backed with sheet leading to tiller and bungee compensating. On a Folk Dancer 27.
Study the video. There is no wind vane at all, so no unnecessary weight or windage. No additional expense either. Too good to be true? No these methods have been used long before wind vanes were thought of.
thanks for teaching me the way of a self steering not to use wind vane but to lead sheets from a jib sail. i had not known your way of fittings. but your way may be used when yacht is on running(towards down wind). i dont think your way is worked when more than abeam (windward). i need strong but light wieght wind vane for my dream plan.
Different arrangements for different points of sail. For windward work, the first part of the video, I just use a bungee shock cord around the tiller. Adjust the tension to provide the required angle of helm and it just sails itself. I have many thousands of ocean miles like this. Try it yourself before spending money on a wind vane that you probably don't need. Study the John Letcher book for more details
WIsh I could sail a couple of days with an older seadog to learn some of the tips and tricks. When you are singlehanding, could you go to sleep with this on?
J T the simple answer is yes , not as sensitive as wind vane or autohelm but if you are crossing a body of water is 3 or 4 degrees that important. Fair winds
This sounds a bit pessimistic. I prefer Edward Monkton's Yen Dog: He knows not where he's going, For the ocean will decide It's not the destination, It's the glory of the ride
What kind of boat is it? Any conventional sailing monohull should develop moderate weather helm which increases with wind speed. If that is the case these methods should work. They are guaranteed not to work if you don't try. For larger craft the headsail sheed tension would be too great, so you can use a means of reducing that. See my other videos with EMU for detailsof what worked for me. Read the John Letcher book for explanations of how it works and other methods for larger sails. I had not read that book when I did this trip but had figured out what worked by trial and error. When you have tried it out, come back and comment again.
@@scallywagII Hans 311 with short fin & self tacking jib.Tiller steered. In 18 years from new I am now on my 7th auto pilot as it burns them out or they do not perform properly. For instance the raymarine av100 will not stop the boat broaching through 70 degrees. At that point the autopilot cuts out & the helm stays hard over. If I am below & do not notice the boat suddenly gybes. Not fun in a 2 metre sea coming over the stern quarter in f7. My aeries does not cut out & will bring it back on course eventually, but it does sail an "S" course that means I cannot use it to run down wind I have been experimenting with different steering methods on my boats for 50 years so I do have some experience. I cannot let go of the helm for more than 2 seconds so I find that even trying to set up a tiller to sheet system is extremely difficult. For instance this boat will not heave too like other boats do. so I have to keep sailing all the time.
@@KrunchyJD A larger boat is usually faster and more comfortable, but that is not the same as less dangerous. I changed from Scallywag to a slightly larger boat (26') because it had more headroom and could carry more stores. It is also much better to windward with one long keel rather than three shallow ones, but that does not make it any safer. The closest I have been to disaster at sea was on a coastal passage on a 600 ton brig. That was scary.
@@scallywagII Oh okay, I just imagine that the ocean could have huge waves and it would be dangerous. Ok, I stand corrected. I used to sail many years ago, just a dingy, a Lazer actually, so I know the basics of sailing. I have thought about getting a small yaught, if I can afford it. Kind of thought it would be for sailing around the lake, thought it might be dangerous in the ocean, perhaps not..
I was on a high as it had kept a perfect course throughout the day and evening. The stars are always best far offshore and the words of the Bob Dylan song came to me "Sara, Sara glamourous nymph of radiant light. The neumonic came later. Simple And Reliable Automatic Helm. With the bigger boat I needed an arrangement to tame the tension in the jibsheet. Thus the Sheet Tension Lowering Lever Arrangement. It had to have a female name as I was channelling the late James Wharram who advocated sailing with a 2 girl crew. So I need STeLLA and SARAH.
@@scallywagII :) cheers for the recollection. Whilst I've got you! do you think this does away with need for a wind vane entirely or is there still a place for them. I'm very much a novice but looking at a boat now that has a wind vane but I find them ugly things and as I really am not going to be doing these sort of voyages for a while like this clean approach.
@@AthelstanEngland I had such good results on Scallywag that I didn't bother with wind vane or autopilot on my bigger 27' boat. I did though try it out before setting off on a big ocean passage. Hand steering for 1000 miles does not appeal. Wind vanes and also autopilots will usually oversteer more than these methods. More movement of the tiller will slow the boat down, as will the drag of the pendulum rudder, though these might be slight effects. On a small boat, the effect of weight at the extremety of the boat is not helpful for stability. Check out the John Letcher book which you can view on the Jester Challenge website. My later videos on EMU also explain the methods and how to set them up reliably. Wind vane gears may be better in some conditions, particularly running before a storm under bare poles.
@@scallywagII thanks for the detailed reply. Much appreciated... good point too about wind vane and bare poles though - I hadn't even considered that. I'll check out the book. Thanks again.
![Hunxho - Ball Forever [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nki9ZTF9Uls/mqdefault.jpg)
So brilliant in its simplicity, this shows that you don't need to bother with costly accessories!
@William Crew Sounds like she has a real winner on her hands. Let us know how your court case(s) go. (and how her parents handle their loss).
I’ve watched this video so many times & I love it. Thank you for the tutorial, I can’t afford a wind vane in the near future as ive had to buy so much other stuff. Brilliant
Ah! I've used the Letcher system on my boat, but never thought to adjust it's power by moving the line up or down the tiller. So obvious once it's pointed out. Thanks!
Sensational stuff, will certainly use this for sea journeys, thank you Captain! Love the size of your boat too, I've just bought a battered old 25 footer - just the right size to keep life simple! Cheerio!
We have used sheat-to-tiller stearing quite a lot on our 20t gaff cutter and it has been mostly successful and is a good help on long passages.
What a stunningly simple solution!
Thank you, good sir!
I will test it for sure. Until now I didn't know how to use this system in down wind, but with your explanation, the elastic conected on both sides plus a rope conected at the genoa, I'm sure I have self-steering for every possibly angle. Thanks for share.
A rope connected ? lol
Thank you for the video, and the link to Letcher's book, just what I needed!
Wonderful and very didactic vídeo. Been searching the internet and youtube for self steering and this is the first vídeo with full explanation. Thank you for sharing SARAH with us!
Thank you for your comment Pedro. These methods work for me on Scallywag, but there are alternatives. Study the John Letcher chapters and try other methods if your deck and cockpit layout does not suit these.
scallywagII Try to add "sheet to tiller" to your video title in order to increase viewers. If you perform a search you will realize this steering method is named as "sheet to tiller".
@@pgpinto2000 glad you said that. Now I know a something new as well.
Best explanation of jib self steering I've seen! Thanks!
You Sir have taught invaluable knowledge to me,so much appreciated,best wishes over the Christmas break,stay safe.I have recently purchased a 11m vessel that has the blocks in the same position and I was wondering why being a novice sailor,this sheds light on all of my questions,thank you.
Thank you for your comments. The blocks there may have been for spinnaker sheets, but by all means use them if they provide a clear lead. Sheet tension on an 11m sloop would be too great for this method except in very light winds. Check out STeLLA on my more recent videos for one solution. Many other options are outlined in the John Letcher book
scallywagII I can see the wear on the tiller,those blocks had to be used in the mix some how,she’s a blue water heavy displacement vessel with multiple poles for down wind reaching Im guessing,I’m new to this vessel and have only had 2x21ft light displacement yachts.Financially I don’t want to spend the money on the Hebridean system just yet but may go that way if I can’t master the sheet to tiller system.cheers and happy new year to you young fella from Oz.
Love the simplicity and many thanks for the link to the book! I'll be looking to experiment with this on my C&C 24 based out of Vancouver Canada
I just bought a c&c 24 Niagara!.. can't wait to sail it. Greetings from Ontario
Freaking awesome, man. Autopilot was going to be my next B.O.A.T. expense. Thanks for this!
Oh yes, I really like this. Brilliantly demonstrated, thanks.
Great information, thanks That's how I did some or some sailing very long voyages .Greetings from the tropical paradise island 🏝of Kauai ! ⛵
Enjoyed yr video picked up yr good tips to improve my existing set up as i have used sheet to helm steering for a while. Have used thin inner bicycle inner tubes and some bungee but cant seem to get bungee with enough tension.
Do you know a good source?
Interesting yr comments about junkrig as i have another kingfisher 20 im converting to junk rig.
Last summer i met Tom Haslar, blondie's son when sailing my sloop kingfisher he noticed my sheet to helm arrangement and i told him i was converting another one to junk after a good chat he gifted me his fathers prototype trim tab stainless steel windvane he built for his junk rig kingfisher " Pilmer". Although not fully complete its minus its servo blade, but its wonderful to own a piece of history!
I have always tide my tiller in this sort of way. The only thing I find is if I move from side to side in the boat it effects this. I also often reverse my tack. Then hove too. My boat is then so stables and more or less carries on the correct way while I rest up or eat.
yes this is more of a problem with smaller boats and lighter winds. If planning to go below for a rest, I found it best to sit on the same side while making adjustments as I would be resting below. I go into more detail about this and other matters on my later videos with EMU.
I got Letcher's book ten years ago, when I started sailing, single handed, and began using these techniques immediately. I try to get other single handers on to the idea, and they just don't get it
. . . I think they get confused because its too simple, ha!
Reminds me of that expression, "If it was complicated, everybody would be doing it."
Thanks for the thorough explanation, im familiar with that subtle "slalom" effect. Ive used it to counter weather helm, and being drawn into shore. Hard to explain, but, one side of the "S" sailing pattern needs to be, longer and more "powered up", after falling off, which pulls the boat, each time, more windward, countering that push towards shore . . .) It's not a symmetrical "S" shape, if that makes sense. .
Anyway, its so satisfying to see in action, i get all worked up! : )
. . .Also, remember Joshua Slocum, late 1800s, first solo circumnavigator, hand steered only three hours in 23 days, across the Indian Ocean: )
. . .had the wheel lashed, and boat very well balanced.
Cheers!
thanks for your precious indications, i ve used a similar system , but this is very intelligent. best regards
you just know second chance sailings going to love this it don't involve money lol
It's great how simple things work just fine. No need to spend thousands on a fancy autopilot when a simple bungee does the job. Happy sailing!
I did 2,5 (a half, because my windvane broke halfway) singlehanded Atlantic crossings West to East this way. 28 to 30 days.
Though downwind a little more challenging it works. Be patient, accept that you dont go full throttle.
Nice can't wait to give this a try!
I love this and would love to find out more information from you as in a newbie sailor
start by reading the John Letcher book which you can download for free from the Jester Challenge site. My later videos on EMU show more detail about how to set up the system for each point of sail, why it works and how to tweak it so that it is reliable when the wind strength changes.
Does this work for all wind angles or just upwind/downwind.
Yes different setups for different wind angles. The 3 newer videos from Jester Challenge 2018 give more details as to how to set up to work effectively and reliably when wind strength changes. The Letcher book is well worth studying.
We have 3 sailboats we are fixing up. To learn on we got a small aqua cat.
i want to cross the atlantic ocean to south america. please explain clearly how to attach the cables or ropes and where on the boat and or the sail?
Check out my later videos on EMU. These show better how I set the lines up. Also read the John Letcher book available for free download from the Jester website.
This is great... i am going to try that thanks
A multihull would be a challenge, Bill Belcher wrote a bit about it in Build your own wind vane steering. Often available for lots more than it's new price as limited number printed by 2018.
Multihulls can accelerate fast hense the apparent wind isn't so good for wind vane steering though I have seen a video using 2 on 2 rudders looking remarkably good.
Bill Belcher suggested the use of trailing a rope aft that would provide more usable pull with its increased drag when accelerating. This could stop the boat bearing away ( where the problem manifests) with helm till sheets ease. That's the basic theory.
It might be worth trying jibsheet to tiller on a broadreach with a multihull. The change in sheet loading with change of course is quite dramatic. The low apparent wind should not be a problem if the vane is the size of a genoa, which in this case it is. I have used this method when there was barely enough wind to keep a cruising chute full. It worked perfectly when a vane gear would not work at all.
For windward or beam reaches, the change in weatherhelm due to heeling is largely what makes a monohull self-steer. With a multihull I can't see this happening, but it would cost nothing to try it.
@@scallywagII Thanks for your reply. The centre of effort usually determined predominantly by mast rake has I think a similar effect to the healing steering weather helm.
A Dutch team from memory have a catamaran sheet steering almost on a run with 2 head sails on RUclips interesting but limited.
Next find a multihull owner with a interest ...
Another RUclipsing is from a 22ft Wharam Tiki winning the Jester Challenge from Plymouth to Newport. Boat had windvane but above 14 knots of boats peed it apparently stopped working.
@@EdSurridge My understanding is that the centre of effort relative to the centre of lateral resistance has an effect on helm. Weatherhelm can be increased by racking the mast aft or increasing mainsail / reducing headsail area.
Under way heeling gives an asymetric underwater shape and this will steer the boat into the wind. This is why weatherhelm will increase with angle of heel. I have reefed the genoa on a long keel yacht and that has reduced weatherhelm, despite moving the centre of effort aft. I have better explained this on my more recent video on another yacht during the Jester Challenge 2018 ruclips.net/video/yKGTv4slZlg/видео.html
The other two videos in that series cover different points of sail and show how to set up the bungee so that the self steering will be reliable in differing wind speeds.
@@scallywagII Thanks again, I missed the titles of your films as I binge watched them. They are very good value Sir.
The Wharram's are certainly long keeled Catamarans those with specific foil might change maters. You have encouraged me to try finding Cat owners whom might have self steering interest.
Very interesting - Thank you
Hi! Does anyone sell a pack with all needed?
Hello,
I couldn't find the chapters you referenced on the website. Is there another location for these (Letcher and Dijkstra). Thank you.
Craig Martin Hi, thanks for your interest. About half way down the Jesterinfo start page there is a box with the links. It is just above an artoicle of the Observer Solo Transatlantic race. There is now the whole of John Letcher's book which I would reccommend reading right through.
im confused...so the first setup is with the wind more at your back and the second setup is when you are heading more toward the wind? Thanks in advance
It is much clearer on my 2018 challenge videos which I did in three parts for different points of sail. There is a better explanation of how to set up the system so that it will be reliable when the wind strength changes. It is worth putting in the time to study these in full and read the John Letcher book so that you get this right.
So the white line basically becomes your mainsheet. I would only think this would work in light wind.
i have crossed the Atlantic using these methods, and not always light winds. See my other videos and the book that is linked to below for details of how to set up the bungee so that it works in all wind strengths.
Thanks for sharing.an excellent and easy-to-follow tutorial.
Very cool, can you do similar with wheel steering?
Sorry, should have read the other comments...
Any system for a junk rig. They don't use Genoas or head sails much as it tends to interfere with the rigging. Great video, very clear.
Going to windward if you get a little weatherhelm, and that increases with more wind, then it may work with a bungee alone or lashed helm.
For reaching courses you could use one end of the mainsheet pulling to weather against a bungee centering the tiller. In practice the extra friction and stretch in the multipart sheet means it might not be sensitive enough. Cost you nothing to try it though. I think Blondie Hasler may have developed his wind vane gears because of the difficulty getting sheet to tiller to work on a single sail junk rig.
On a broad reach a jib could be set flying and should self steer reliably if set up correctly. Shape is not critical and you could pick up a suitably sized old jib very cheaply. See the more recent videos with Emu for better descriptions of setting up and read the John Letcher book. jesterchallenge.wordpress.com/articles/self-steering/
Now i know what though extra block on my stern are for. The first owner of the boat probably knew these tricks.
They may have been for spinnaker sheets, but use the existing arrangements. The arrangements for any particular boat is determined largely by the layout of the cockpit
Hey, do you know anyone who has achieved this with a junk rig? I have tried, but there is not enough force on the sheets to turn the wheel surficently. I used blocks, and as much leverage as practical, but if I increase the leverage too far then the movement is not enough.
It would be difficult with the stretch and friction of your multipart sheets. I think that may be why Blondie Hasler who developed Western Junk Rig also came up with the servo-pendulum vane gear.
Going upwind a locked helm or bungee alone could be worth trying. Downwind it is possible to fit a jib flying and use that as the steering sail. Shape is not too important so a budget used sail could do. Alternatively try fitting the lower block of either junk sail sheet to a line with a single block where it would have been fitted, then to a turning block on the windward side. That way you have minimum friction so best chance of success. Post another comment when you have tried it. Good luck.
I wonder if it could work with a wheel and a some sort of drum to wind the bungee around. what do you think?
+stephen Webb Possibly it would work. Wheel adapters are made for some wind vane gears. Wheels introduce extra friction which is the enemy of all wind steering systems, with or without vanes. I have sailed to windward using the bungee around the spokes of a wheel and it kept a better course than an electronic autopilot. I haven't tried it on other points, but give it a go. Read the Letcher book for more ideas. www.kyoa.org.uk/jesterchallenge.htm Find the link about half way down the page.
+scallywagII Thank you
What's the boat here? I have Letcher's book in hardback and prize it.
Scallywag II is a Robert Tucker T23+. Do you also use Letcher's methods?
@@scallywagII I built a horizontal vane with fishing line through plastic tubes going down to an auxiliary rudder with trim tab. Took me from Portugal to The Gambia and back up to Britain via The Canaries and Madeira.
@@scallywagII Before I built the wind vane I crossed Biscay with sheet to tiller, inner jib slightly backed with sheet leading to tiller and bungee compensating. On a Folk Dancer 27.
Great to sea that sometimes HIGH tech is not the only solution. Humans are marvellous creatures...
Could you set something like that with wheel helm also ?
I imagine it would, provided you had a suicide knob protruding perpendicular to the elastic bands at the top of the wheel.
Thanx, so much for sharing.👍😎
Thank you, very well done
Is there light weight brand wind vane good for 22foot to 25foot,sloop? if its heavy, sterns down, so the light one
Study the video. There is no wind vane at all, so no unnecessary weight or windage. No additional expense either. Too good to be true? No these methods have been used long before wind vanes were thought of.
thanks for teaching me the way of a self steering not to use wind vane but to lead sheets from a jib sail. i had not known your way of fittings. but your way may be used when yacht is on running(towards down wind). i dont think your way is worked when more than abeam (windward). i need strong but light wieght wind vane for my dream plan.
Different arrangements for different points of sail. For windward work, the first part of the video, I just use a bungee shock cord around the tiller. Adjust the tension to provide the required angle of helm and it just sails itself. I have many thousands of ocean miles like this. Try it yourself before spending money on a wind vane that you probably don't need. Study the John Letcher book for more details
amazing i going try on my grampian 26
Brilliant!!
Thank you man
WIsh I could sail a couple of days with an older seadog to learn some of the tips and tricks. When you are singlehanding, could you go to sleep with this on?
J T the simple answer is yes , not as sensitive as wind vane or autohelm but if you are crossing a body of water is 3 or 4 degrees that important. Fair winds
I love hi tec solutions lol
I bet all the companies selling all there electric gear. Would not like this set up
Knowledge.....
"If one does not know to which port one is sailing, no wind is favorable." ~ Seneca the Elder
This sounds a bit pessimistic. I prefer Edward Monkton's Yen Dog:
He knows not where he's going,
For the ocean will decide
It's not the destination,
It's the glory of the ride
I aggree with scallywag here as sailing is about the journey, not the destination.
There is no way my boat would steer with those set ups.
What kind of boat is it? Any conventional sailing monohull should develop moderate weather helm which increases with wind speed. If that is the case these methods should work. They are guaranteed not to work if you don't try. For larger craft the headsail sheed tension would be too great, so you can use a means of reducing that. See my other videos with EMU for detailsof what worked for me. Read the John Letcher book for explanations of how it works and other methods for larger sails. I had not read that book when I did this trip but had figured out what worked by trial and error. When you have tried it out, come back and comment again.
@@scallywagII Hans 311 with short fin & self tacking jib.Tiller steered. In 18 years from new I am now on my 7th auto pilot as it burns them out or they do not perform properly. For instance the raymarine av100 will not stop the boat broaching through 70 degrees. At that point the autopilot cuts out & the helm stays hard over. If I am below & do not notice the boat suddenly gybes. Not fun in a 2 metre sea coming over the stern quarter in f7. My aeries does not cut out & will bring it back on course eventually, but it does sail an "S" course that means I cannot use it to run down wind
I have been experimenting with different steering methods on my boats for 50 years so I do have some experience. I cannot let go of the helm for more than 2 seconds so I find that even trying to set up a tiller to sheet system is extremely difficult.
For instance this boat will not heave too like other boats do. so I have to keep sailing all the time.
Small boat to be going into the ocean with
Bigger horizons are more important than a bigger boat
@@scallywagII Fair enough, just thought it would be more dangerous with a small boat. If you can do it, great..
@@KrunchyJD A larger boat is usually faster and more comfortable, but that is not the same as less dangerous. I changed from Scallywag to a slightly larger boat (26') because it had more headroom and could carry more stores. It is also much better to windward with one long keel rather than three shallow ones, but that does not make it any safer. The closest I have been to disaster at sea was on a coastal passage on a 600 ton brig. That was scary.
@@scallywagII Oh okay, I just imagine that the ocean could have huge waves and it would be dangerous. Ok, I stand corrected. I used to sail many years ago, just a dingy, a Lazer actually, so I know the basics of sailing. I have thought about getting a small yaught, if I can afford it. Kind of thought it would be for sailing around the lake, thought it might be dangerous in the ocean, perhaps not..
Ha ha took me over half the video to work out why it's called SARAH!! Thought it was named after an ex lover who always insisted on being in control!
I was on a high as it had kept a perfect course throughout the day and evening. The stars are always best far offshore and the words of the Bob Dylan song came to me "Sara, Sara glamourous nymph of radiant light. The neumonic came later. Simple And Reliable Automatic Helm.
With the bigger boat I needed an arrangement to tame the tension in the jibsheet. Thus the Sheet Tension Lowering Lever Arrangement. It had to have a female name as I was channelling the late James Wharram who advocated sailing with a 2 girl crew. So I need STeLLA and SARAH.
@@scallywagII :) cheers for the recollection. Whilst I've got you! do you think this does away with need for a wind vane entirely or is there still a place for them. I'm very much a novice but looking at a boat now that has a wind vane but I find them ugly things and as I really am not going to be doing these sort of voyages for a while like this clean approach.
@@AthelstanEngland I had such good results on Scallywag that I didn't bother with wind vane or autopilot on my bigger 27' boat. I did though try it out before setting off on a big ocean passage. Hand steering for 1000 miles does not appeal.
Wind vanes and also autopilots will usually oversteer more than these methods. More movement of the tiller will slow the boat down, as will the drag of the pendulum rudder, though these might be slight effects. On a small boat, the effect of weight at the extremety of the boat is not helpful for stability.
Check out the John Letcher book which you can view on the Jester Challenge website. My later videos on EMU also explain the methods and how to set them up reliably.
Wind vane gears may be better in some conditions, particularly running before a storm under bare poles.
@@scallywagII thanks for the detailed reply. Much appreciated... good point too about wind vane and bare poles though - I hadn't even considered that. I'll check out the book. Thanks again.
Hi there skipper how can I message you