How to use a laser level for beginners
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- Опубликовано: 25 авг 2024
- In this video I'm showing you how to use a self leveling rotary laser level.
I'm using the laser level to shoot grades on a sub-grade for a concrete floor so I can mark the level of the top of the concrete floor for the next days pour.
I'll show you how to set up the laser, how the receiver works, my grade stick I use, and how to get an average sub-base grade.
Then I'll show you how I mark the concrete walls and snap my chalk lines for the concrete floor pour.
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I actually just ordered the same Topcon laser for my upcoming house build. Glad to see I made the right choice!
Your the best instructor I have seen on UTUBE,
Thank you!
I've watched a few of your videos - very useful - and thanks for making them!
Glad you like them!
Very helpful video, many thanks.
Val - Do you use a Laser Level in your line of work?
Great practical video on using a laser level - thanks
Thank you 👍🏾
You are so welcome
Good video
Thanks
Nice video, I am putting in some ditches and need to shot some levels. Trying to learn how to use a laser. On my job the level is is not very critical.
Shouldn’t you mark it up 4 inches from the highest point so the slab is at least 4 inches thick everywhere?
*Good product*
very cool thank you!
Nice video
Thank you!
So based on using the beginning measurements with the grade being so far off level and taking the average, the final thickness will be some areas less than 4” and some areas more than 4” correct?
Yes
Mike this is tim from Ohio. We're do I get the layserben at an how much do they cost.
Shhnap a chalk line
Question - I just bought a Bosch GLL3-330cg cross line laser level and a Bosch LR8 laser receiver. I do not have a grade stick yet but its not necessarily needed. My question is we are transferring top of joist and/or top of girder elevations to pilings ahead of us that have nothing attached to them yet. So we shoot the laser (horizontal plane) at the pilings (they are too faint to be seen by eye) and we simply raise/lower the receiver while skimming the edge of the piling until it detects the laser, then mark that spot. My question is if you do not have the receiver perfectly level as it detects the laser, how do you know which slot to use to mark? If I do buy a grade rod, do you have to ensure the rod with receiver attached is perfectly plumb before you mark that spot? Just used this today for the first time and I use the marking slot that is right by the laser absorption/detection window that is on the face side of the receiver. Am I doing this right?
Hey Hi. Really it was very helpful all your videos. Thank you so much. I would like to know more about these works. How can I contact you
What do you think of Spectra lasers Mike? Are Topcon lasers better?
What model is that your using, Mike?
Hey mate thanks for your videos, really helpful. I’m curious can you use a laser level for making a flat surface on a slight slope? I’m wanting to lay turf on a prepared slope of top soil but want it dead flat.
For sure you can.
Sorry just realised I didn’t explain myself very well. I need a flat surface but on a slope. So basically what I am after is: how do you set your laser to be on an angle??? I’ll be using a foot path as one side and sloping up to my house.
Thank you for the video. I have a question which may look stupid. Could you please tell us how will you be sure the middle of the slab is also levelled? Will you use this tool when you pour the concrete? How can I be sure the middle of a big slab is also levelled if I don't have such a laser tool? I have seen some workers using big nails in the midle of the slab and alligning the top of the slab to the top of the nails when pouring the concrete. Is there a better method to do this?
Drive stakes on grade spread out so whatever your using to screege can reach
Piece of rebar, pound in ground in center check with laser level. Bring concrete to this level.
Wouldn’t a cross level that shot a line 360 degrees work and then just mark the wall?
First off close to box!
How far above the end of your rod is that receiver target set? And how did you determine that? And how does your instrument height effect that ? What’s their relationship? You said you were “getting 3-1/2 to 5”: What does that mean? For a beginner how-to video, this was not helpful. You assume your viewer knows more than a beginner. You need to explain basic geometry of what your doing.
Agree. I like is videos, and this one too, but not at all for beginners. Sort of the opposite. Mostly shows the end result with no explanation as to how to actually use the stick and measurement device to get the chalk line at the right mark.
He's measuring the elevation of the top of the stone base, and trying to establish a zero reference point, on top of which to add 4 in to get to the top of his concrete. He said he measured between 3.5" to 5.25". All this really means is that there is a 1.75" difference in the top of the stone at its highest points and lowest points. So he took an average of that measurement, and added 4 in, meaning some areas will have more than 4 inches of concrete and some slightly less. But regardless of the sub base not being perfectly level, as long as the concrete is placed with a laser, the top of the concrete will be perfectly level. If the stone base had been placed with a laser level, it would all read level with the same elevation on the rod.
Is there like a name for that rope/line thingy that you snap and there is a red line
It is called a chalk line. Some call it a chalk reel.
I just started a job doing excavating and I have a co worker trying to teach me how to grade and he makes it extremely complicated to understand. Right now we have stakes marked and I don’t really understand what they mean. The stakes look something like 9.48 C- . I know the purpose of grading is to make sure everything is level. Right now we are tying into a sewer line over 6 feet deep. I’m just super confused.
Julian Torres, stay positive, anything you learn that's new to you has a learning curve. It will take you some time to learn the methods they use to grade but you will learn. Take it one step at a time, learn one thing first, understand why you are doing it that way, then learn another thing and so on. Ask questions if you don't understand. You will get it in no time. Cheers!
@@MikeDayConcrete Mike that so inspirational what u said to Julian. I take my hat off to u. From Cyprus
You must have a good laser, our boss is very cheap and has shitty Bosch lasers.
I use Topcon, they're excellent Lasers.
3/4 gravel
Your grade line should be chalked before you put the stone or whatever your using for your base is put in.
You can not just assume that picking the average gravel measurement then just lowering the sensor to 4'' and click you have 4'' top of concrete . You need a reference elevation point from where you have to be 4'' top of concrete related to door entrances and so on. good video but explain because is for beginners
Dude you didn't explain jack to a beginner who has no idea how to use this
That’s not dirt that gravel. Looks good
could u do the same thing when sitting storm drain pipe with an 4in fall with in 200ft
Yes you could. We use the laser to set drainage pipe all the time.
I don't understand what you used as your starting basis for comparison when shooting the grade. You set your receiver on the stick to be level with where the laser is shooting, but that's just based on the height of the tripod so what is going on here
Mike, what are your thoughts on Topcon RL-H5A? Overkill for basic grade work?
I think for basic grade work the H5B is all you need. The two major differences between lasers is H5B is good up to 400m, H5A is good up to 800m. So if distance is a really big deal go with the B. The other difference is the slope setting with the A.
I do slopes all the time with my concrete floors, slabs, sidewalks, driveways all using the B. No problem.
hope this helps
Mike
Sounds like your a Mainer!?
It's flat the earth; )