I've had the 18x2 for a few years now and it is great. The smaller size and weight of this saw look great but not enough to get me to upgrade. I got lucky and found a deal on this saw lightly used at a pawn shop. Having a track saw is a real game changer!
track and table saw are the most delayed investments in any carpenter workshop due to cost making the circular saw assume more responsibilities than it actually can
Was using the 18x2 last week it was struggling with 40mm solid timer. So I got the xgt same pc of 40mm timber and wow well worth the upgrade thanks for the review as always love vids.👍👍
Something I noticed right away, when you broke both those saws out, and put them side-by-side was how much of a 'foot-print-reduction' has been accomplished with the 40v platform. Makita engineers deserve a good pat on the back for that one. There's nearly no overhang of the base plate on the left side of the saw, maybe 5 to 10cms for you guys, but when compared to the predecessors what looks like a good 2" hanging over the base plate. 'Baby-got-some-back!' Indeed.😎🤠🤓. You have already mentioned this, and I didn't hear, but I'm multitasking. Anyways, great video Brother.
I’ve never used a track saw, don’t have a need for one really. I’ll damn sure watch a tools&stuff video on one though. 40v was shooting out a nice rooster tail in the speed/power side by side.
I have the Makita and hate the depth of cut screw. Was hoping they were gonna fix it. It has the 6-1/2” blade but have a chip guide. Festool’s new TS55K won’t cut 1-1/2” at 45 DEG with the 6-1/4” blade. It has the double battery and struggles in dense wood. Gonna check out the Milwaukee. Good video 👍
Faster speed makes cleaner cuts on panel which the plunge saw is designed for. although the 40v is better designed, I'm sure most people still love the 36v.
The 36v has a lot less torque though, so doesn't maintain higher revs under load, so cuts slower. The xgt maintains higher revs whilst cutting, because of it's extra torque.
Hm the makita 36v kit with track is $560. This 40v is $690. Festool is $800. (Mafell is like $1,500 which I hear is the best but that's out of budget for me.) I'm leaning towards festool for the included dust bag, ability to use only 1 battery, imperial depth measurement which includes the track, and the fact that the tso parallel guides have an easier connection with the festool track. Still undecided though.
Um adding mm on is normal for any builder isn't it. 28mm for a circular saw 22mm for a jigsaw etc. Thinking about this your bob on why don't tools take their own boundaries into account when offering a scale rule. Great video❤
There is a video about this on the gotools channel. The Makita 36v is about twice as fast as the Festool and this video shows you that the 40V is significantly faster than the 36V.
Hi there great video as usual, I love watching them, always very informative 👍 I do have a question though.... What is the blade and kerf thickness of the new 40v ? I have already got the 40v platform for my mitre saw and 190mm circular but I am seriously considering the tsc55keb by festool as I like some of their features, thinner kerf being one of them
Interestingly the Instruction Manual does not mention the AFT feature at all, while for other tools it is advertised on the tool's body and cited in the Instruction Manual as well. I made a call to the distributor and they could not confirm the saw having AFT either. Maybe the anti kickback feature is part of the electric brake or ADT?
Great video, thanks. I just bought the corded version after deliberating on a Festool and noticed the same thing on the depth. It not even correct on either track or not. Also, it's not set at 90degrees either. Bit disappointed as this is my first Makita having always had DeWalt and Festool.
The original Makita is such a perfect saw imo. The 40v being slimmer, 1 pound lighter, more power sounds pretty amazing. I thought the 40v had a riving knife as well, did I make that up?
@@kwiknikkno riving knife, it has "AFT" which is kickback sensing. It will shut off if pinched. Yeah that part sucks, but that's common across the Makita saws.
I just swapped my 36v to the 40v. The thing I noticed is that the saw blade of the 40v extends about maybe half a milimeter outwards and does not cut flush to my existing cut line, although using the same blade. Hence I have readjusted the splinter guard on my 3 tracks. Do you have the same problem?
@@ToolsAndStuffOFFICIAL awesome thanks so much for the quick reply gonna order one of these in a kit with some rails tomorrow 🤘 get them shorts framed too 🤣
I don't want to point fingers at anyone but I think someone in this video needs a new pair of shorts for Christmas. Great saw tho! just wish I wasnt so invested into the 18v range :)
A question, I am wanting a saw to go on a rail on the Makita 18v platform. What are the options including and excluding plunge saw, or even with the jig that you can attach to a saw. I have had a look on the Makita website, but it wasn't that clear. However, you seem to know about the Makita products ;)
Hi, I guess this blade is not optimized for rip cuts. I picked up one of Freud with only 12 teeth. Feels way better on the SP6000 (the AC version), but I did not spent much time for comparison. Kind regards, Roman
This holds true for most plunge track saws (sometimes even Mafell). It’s on a track, forcing the blade to not go off on it’s own (albeit tiny) direction. The concept becomes very obvious when you try to run a jigsaw on a track. Thus, they do like more conventional woodworking table-saw practices. Rips blade for rips. Crosscut blade for cross cuts. So on.
I have a 18x2 track saw i use to cut fiber cement sheets. I use a fiber cement sheet blade (has only 4 teeth) a good dust exstraction. Works well. I just make sure to blow any fiber cement dust off so it doesn't get caked onto the saw
@@ToolsAndStuffOFFICIAL always thought it was a great idea that they did 1.5m + 1m rails as you would only need to own two rails to rip a 8ft sheet and still have the benefit of a small rail
In Finland i can get 1000 mm ,1400 mm ,1500 mm ,1900 mm and 3000mm Makita rails , just because some shops deliver from Denmark , Sweden or Baltic countries and even in that area there are difference what you can get ... would be nice to get an answer from Makita why ?
I can't believe Makita would not have depth of cut like a Festool, or the Bosch. That adjustment is the weak point. With Festool you can also calibrate depth of cut with a thumb screw.
Great video. I got the 36V for Christmas and I'm very pleased with it. One thing I'd like your take on: would putting the 6 aH batteries on it be a big improvement over the 5 aH? Thanks
No the 6Ah batteries are nowhere near as good as the 5Ah. They cut out early on many tools. I don't use them for tests anymore as they are too unreliable.
I've read in more than one forum the 6Ah batteries use 20 Amp cells, whereas the 5Ah uses 25 Amp cells. It's a tradeoff between heat vs runtime vs max amperage.
Nice Review. There was an issue with the thin efficutblades, that on some Occassions the Cutline gets wobbly and takes a curve. Especially on thicker/harder material. Did this ever occur to you? I think this may also be a reason why makita lowered the rpm on the new 40v plunge saw. Greetings from another part of the world 😉
Yes cos the efficut are optimised for battery saws (thinner kerf to save battery) you need a thicker blade to manage deflection 2mm+ or increase speed and slow your feed rate but then you can burn your material. Also efficut blades suck to sharpen and chip easily. Just the nature of the beast I just use a thicker Freud blade…
@@ollie9199 and how did that affect your cutting speed and battery lifetime with the thicker blades? One of the major points in which the makita plunge saw is praised is its effortless fast cutting like butter. But one of the keypoints to that is the really thin efficutblades which could tend to produce those wobbly cuts on higher strain. So i'm interested in like how much it changes the performance of the saw with using a "normal" blade over the efficutblades. Greetings
My LS003 has arrived now. Holy s.... is it big. Ok, I never had any kind of mitre saw, only at work. But like half the size. But we have sundy and I'm just back from work an only want to sleep now.
The 18x2 plunge saw is for sure one of the uglier 18x2 ones, but the prize for ugliest and clunkiest goes to the 18x2 angle grinder for me... One look at it was enough for me to go "Nope... I'll use a bloody corded one over that thing" 😂
Well that would probably work. As this tool, along with several other Makita circular blade based tools, has 2 sets of marks on the base indicating different blade sizes.
Makita, why why why will you not add the addition of a riving knife, definitely the biggest flaw on this machine, it also can make it very dangerous in certain circumstances, the reason I won’t be purchasing it, looks like I’ll be sticking with TS55. Very disappointing, great reviews dude keep them coming
I was sceptic too, but have to say after hundreds of plunge cuts i never had a problem. Using your head helps a lot, dont ram it in there. Just Eaze it in. A bit easier too without a (fixed) knife and the markings on the side of the casing.
@@joepmeloen3373 I’ve owned the corded makita years ago when they where 1st released and when cutting trespa or cheap building grade ply it would snag when getting closer to the end of the run, I found myself using a wedge to help, the riving knife doesn’t need to be fixed, it could be spring loaded and drop into the cut line, it’s not the plunging that’s the problem, issues start when cutting unstable materials like ply, damp timbers etc, I appreciate its a good machine with stable materials but they can learn a lot from festool, I’ve always been a makita fan but this saw just isn’t their yet, but if it works for you then happy days.
A riving knife will lock you into a specific blade kerf. The Makita opens up a lot of blade options. Plus the Makita has the electronic anti-kickback feature.
@@maltaylor8146 yeah when the material pinches the blade ill use a wedge too. But 99,99% of the time im using the saw on stable sheet goods so its never a problem. For that rougher timber i have other options with a knife.
Their annoying system of wirelessly switching the dust extractors on and off. You pay $50-100 extra for the ability to install the module. And then you still have to buy the module for over $75. Every tool will need it’s own $75 module. Once that’s sorted, it will turn the vacuum on when you turn on the tool. Realistically, routers and sanders and things are going to be corded. So, that leaves you with when using a rotary hammer which you’ll want the vacuum on and not have it tool actuated or the occasional indoor sawing (and most of us have corded track saws…). Long story short: I do what we’ve all been doing for ages…use a remote on off button that’s tied to the hose.
@@alexc.239 I'd rather supper 500 jobs at their UK plant then 500 jobs in their China plant. It doesn't matter to you where it is made until you lose your job to someone in a low cost country.
@@ToolsAndStuffOFFICIAL Yea, different plants for different regions, but so for 40V is China only for Europe. Makita has their UK and Romania and their Germany plant pretty much exclusively supply Europe, but for example the brushless barrel grip jigsaw is made in the UK for all markets. They also export some models from their USA plant.
@ToolsAndStuffOFFICIAL Working time not power 40am from 36 not that big of a difference, it cut faster yes, less space, anti kickback. That's everything so it depends on what you are doing
@@stuartmcarthur795 "Did you even look at the two saws..." I love cryptic questions but tell me did you even understand my query? Also, have you ever looked at other saws? Tell me honestly though Stu, can you even see saws.😂
@@iminabrons Asking if 40v is the same as 36v on a video specifically made to point out the differences... Are you balls deep into the 18v platform? If so I would stay with 18v unless there are specific tool which you feel are lacking from the dual battery 36V If you're planning on upgrading your other tools periodically and care enough about reduced size and weight then maybe it will be worth it to you, I personally will be waiting until prices have reduced once more people adopt the system. At the end of the day there will be people who upgrade for the sake of upgrading just to have the best of the best and it's "worth it" to them. The simple fact that many of the tools will be smaller and lighter with a single battery is reason enough for me to consider the upgrade, you however may have a different view.
@@balazsbanhalmi hi yes this is the one but it doesnt really have a button for it i kinda figured it out by plunging the saw into a workpiece and going a little back. The saw noticed that and stopped. First i thought my battery was flat but that wasnt the case.
This is the best Makita track saw video there is. I've watched 20+ videos, and this one finally answered my questions
Great point with the depth of cut. Something so simple aswell.
I've had the 18x2 for a few years now and it is great. The smaller size and weight of this saw look great but not enough to get me to upgrade. I got lucky and found a deal on this saw lightly used at a pawn shop. Having a track saw is a real game changer!
If you are using it on sheets 18x2 is ok if you are cutting solid wood the 40v is worth the upgrade.
Lightly used in a pawn shop sounds very stolen to me.
track and table saw are the most delayed investments in any carpenter workshop due to cost making the circular saw assume more responsibilities than it actually can
Was using the 18x2 last week it was struggling with 40mm solid timer. So I got the xgt same pc of 40mm timber and wow well worth the upgrade thanks for the review as always love vids.👍👍
Great to hear!
Did you have 2x 6Ah batteries on the 36v, or was it 2x3Ah? 2x5Ah? Etc.
I only use 5ah
Literally no better tester than a damp R.S 8x2 rip. Love your content mate
I have the 2x18v for several years now and I absolutely love the thing
I absolutely agree. I have mine 36v track saw for years and I'm not planning to change for 40v.
Waste of the money.
Something I noticed right away, when you broke both those saws out, and put them side-by-side was how much of a 'foot-print-reduction' has been accomplished with the 40v platform. Makita engineers deserve a good pat on the back for that one. There's nearly no overhang of the base plate on the left side of the saw, maybe 5 to 10cms for you guys, but when compared to the predecessors what looks like a good 2" hanging over the base plate. 'Baby-got-some-back!' Indeed.😎🤠🤓.
You have already mentioned this, and I didn't hear, but I'm multitasking.
Anyways, great video Brother.
Best reviews on the interwebs bar none!!! 🤘🏽🤘🏽🔥🔥🔥
I assume both will cut standard 18mm all day long?
Best makita reviews on RUclips!
Cheers!
I’ve never used a track saw, don’t have a need for one really. I’ll damn sure watch a tools&stuff video on one though. 40v was shooting out a nice rooster tail in the speed/power side by side.
40V looking the goods. Can’t wait for the HS004G comparison.
The LXT track saw also seems to have AFT, it behaves the same when kickback happens.
Also the 40v dust extractor has become available in NZ
good tip about which saw to buy at the end of the of the video.
You said "track" 127 times in this video
You missed one.
U really need a hobby man
@@Jimmyc1807 no chance he did so many, that was the joke you missed.
@@ToolsAndStuffOFFICIAL in future can you keep the numbers even not odd, on another note, great video ! Always look forward to watching :):)
They were even... he missed one 😉
Can u do a review comparing the xgt with the milwaukee m18 track saw?
Milwaukee might pay him not to.
Does the 18v x2 also have AFT? Wish you tested the kickback on that saw as well.
I have the Makita and hate the depth of cut screw. Was hoping they were gonna fix it. It has the 6-1/2” blade but have a chip guide. Festool’s new TS55K won’t cut 1-1/2” at 45 DEG with the 6-1/4” blade. It has the double battery and struggles in dense wood. Gonna check out the Milwaukee. Good video 👍
*Makita Doesnt have a chip guide *
Cheers dude, made my mind up now 40v all the way 👍🏻
Faster speed makes cleaner cuts on panel which the plunge saw is designed for. although the 40v is better designed, I'm sure most people still love the 36v.
The 36v has a lot less torque though, so doesn't maintain higher revs under load, so cuts slower. The xgt maintains higher revs whilst cutting, because of it's extra torque.
Hm the makita 36v kit with track is $560. This 40v is $690. Festool is $800. (Mafell is like $1,500 which I hear is the best but that's out of budget for me.) I'm leaning towards festool for the included dust bag, ability to use only 1 battery, imperial depth measurement which includes the track, and the fact that the tso parallel guides have an easier connection with the festool track. Still undecided though.
What's the biggest amp hr battery the 40v will take?
Um adding mm on is normal for any builder isn't it. 28mm for a circular saw 22mm for a jigsaw etc. Thinking about this your bob on why don't tools take their own boundaries into account when offering a scale rule. Great video❤
Nice review and strawbyte has some nice 3D printed cover plates for the hole😉
An interesting comparison for sheer speed of cut would be new festool cordless plunge with 1.8 kerf versus new 40v plunge makita, verrrry interesting
There is a video about this on the gotools channel. The Makita 36v is about twice as fast as the Festool and this video shows you that the 40V is significantly faster than the 36V.
@@julianweiser9985 cheers, how good is this 40v stuff
8:44 whoa the 40V is much smaller (narrower)?
Hi there great video as usual, I love watching them, always very informative 👍 I do have a question though.... What is the blade and kerf thickness of the new 40v ? I have already got the 40v platform for my mitre saw and 190mm circular but I am seriously considering the tsc55keb by festool as I like some of their features, thinner kerf being one of them
You can put thin kerf blades on any of them. If you want to know the perfect of the Makita blades, then it's 1.4mm.
@ToolsAndStuffOFFICIAL thanks very much for the info, much appreciated 👍 keep up the great videos
Interestingly the Instruction Manual does not mention the AFT feature at all, while for other tools it is advertised on the tool's body and cited in the Instruction Manual as well. I made a call to the distributor and they could not confirm the saw having AFT either. Maybe the anti kickback feature is part of the electric brake or ADT?
Hm, I wonder if you could grab a fine tip marker and add a line?
Dude I'm going through a divorce and your videos lighten my day
Glad it helps.
why is the depth wrong with the track on. u think it would be linked with the track
Does the dsp601z work with one battery?
No.
@ToolsAndStuffOFFICIAL thank you for replying, I see plenty comments in other videos claiming it can work with one battery
The Festool can, the Makita can not.
@@ToolsAndStuffOFFICIAL* tnx for clarifying
Question: Do you know if Makita planning on releasing a Left handed Blade version of the XGT HS004G?
My 18x2 aws plunge saw also has a anti kickback feature I found that out the hard way.
I called makita and was told by them that the 40v motor is more powerful than the 2x18v and the corded versions. Can you speak to that?
it is, nothing complicated about it :)
I have mostly Makita tools 90% but my plunge saw is mafell best in the business
The Mafell is sweet, but most of us are on one battery system.
Great video, thanks. I just bought the corded version after deliberating on a Festool and noticed the same thing on the depth. It not even correct on either track or not. Also, it's not set at 90degrees either. Bit disappointed as this is my first Makita having always had DeWalt and Festool.
Nice! Looks like makita just replaced the battery system and kept the saw the same. A bit disappointing bc I expected functional improvements.
The original Makita is such a perfect saw imo. The 40v being slimmer, 1 pound lighter, more power sounds pretty amazing. I thought the 40v had a riving knife as well, did I make that up?
They haven't thought. The 40v is a different saw. It has some of the same features, but the motor and the saw itself are different products.
@@kwiknikkno riving knife, it has "AFT" which is kickback sensing. It will shut off if pinched. Yeah that part sucks, but that's common across the Makita saws.
Why doesn’t Makita offer a dust bag for the plunge saws?
None of their circular saws come with one. But you can buy them.
The Maffel one fits but waste of money, I already broke 2 in a month, the plastic tab is very weak and breaks easily.
They do, it is called 126559-8
Good review, Thanks
I just swapped my 36v to the 40v. The thing I noticed is that the saw blade of the 40v extends about maybe half a milimeter outwards and does not cut flush to my existing cut line, although using the same blade. Hence I have readjusted the splinter guard on my 3 tracks. Do you have the same problem?
Did you try adjusting the bottom plate on the saw?
That happened on my hkc. I ended up just doing new splinter guards
Hi can i use this on metal and thick 20mm metals?
not even close, how did you even get that idea?
Hey matey, what are your thoughts between the new festool ts55keb v the makita 40v plunge saw?
Which is your preference and why?
Thank you in advance
I have the circular saw, and with a track it's great, never used a dedicated track saw so can't compare, but Tools & Stuff could.
Next week
@@ToolsAndStuffOFFICIAL nice one, I look forward to seeing it.
Love your reviews!! Helped me so much on my purchases. Are the rails the same for both twin 18v and 40v?
Yes. Same for all Makita plunge saws and festool and a bunch of other brands.
@@ToolsAndStuffOFFICIAL awesome thanks so much for the quick reply gonna order one of these in a kit with some rails tomorrow 🤘 get them shorts framed too 🤣
I set them on fire in a RUclips video for patreon.
Well, you already know what I’m going to say 😀: Mafell and Festool have had that dual depth stop sorted since day one. 😂
I don't want to point fingers at anyone but I think someone in this video needs a new pair of shorts for Christmas.
Great saw tho! just wish I wasnt so invested into the 18v range :)
Finally! I've been wearing these shorts in videos for a loooong time trying to get a reaction. Thank you, now I can move on with my life.
A question, I am wanting a saw to go on a rail on the Makita 18v platform. What are the options including and excluding plunge saw, or even with the jig that you can attach to a saw. I have had a look on the Makita website, but it wasn't that clear. However, you seem to know about the Makita products ;)
In 4 minutes I will be releasing a video that may help.
XGT £400 for two batteries I went with LXT. Maybe 40v is better in the long run.
Hi,
I guess this blade is not optimized for rip cuts. I picked up one of Freud with only 12 teeth. Feels way better on the SP6000 (the AC version), but I did not spent much time for comparison.
Kind regards,
Roman
This holds true for most plunge track saws (sometimes even Mafell). It’s on a track, forcing the blade to not go off on it’s own (albeit tiny) direction. The concept becomes very obvious when you try to run a jigsaw on a track. Thus, they do like more conventional woodworking table-saw practices. Rips blade for rips. Crosscut blade for cross cuts. So on.
I failed to mention, these saws usually don’t have the biggest motors in the world for whatever reason. So that plays into it.
You can get an aftermarket bolt on in the uk that fits on the depth gauge to show track and no track,great video I ll stick to my old 36v
Search for: Blade Depth Gauge Offset 40v makita
Have you tried using this to cut Fibre cement?
No.
I use mine to cut fc all the time.
@@kizzjd9578 is it any good or just stick to the corded version?
I have a 18x2 track saw i use to cut fiber cement sheets. I use a fiber cement sheet blade (has only 4 teeth) a good dust exstraction. Works well. I just make sure to blow any fiber cement dust off so it doesn't get caked onto the saw
How about review on your Robinson Crusoe shorts? It looks like you've had them long enough to give an informed opinion 👍
I 3d printed a part to change the depth number readout on my 18x2
Hi Leith do you sale those 3d printed depth number readout parts?
This guy is the besttt
my makita rail is 1500mm. Are the new zealand rails only 1400?
Different countries use Different lengths. They used to sell. 1.5 and 1.9 here, but now I think it is just 1.4 and 3.0
@@ToolsAndStuffOFFICIAL always thought it was a great idea that they did 1.5m + 1m rails as you would only need to own two rails to rip a 8ft sheet and still have the benefit of a small rail
In Finland i can get 1000 mm ,1400 mm ,1500 mm ,1900 mm and 3000mm Makita rails , just because some shops deliver from Denmark , Sweden or Baltic countries and even in that area there are difference what you can get ... would be nice to get an answer from Makita why ?
Great review. Thanks 😁
Hey Tools, hanging out for the LXT heat gun for sure!
I can't believe Makita would not have depth of cut like a Festool, or the Bosch. That adjustment is the weak point. With Festool you can also calibrate depth of cut with a thumb screw.
I'm waiting on a speed control that goes to 11.
Thank you so so so much! Nice video.
Why would you ever cut something without the track
@boogiedahomey cringe 🤦♂
Great video. I got the 36V for Christmas and I'm very pleased with it. One thing I'd like your take on: would putting the 6 aH batteries on it be a big improvement over the 5 aH? Thanks
No the 6Ah batteries are nowhere near as good as the 5Ah. They cut out early on many tools. I don't use them for tests anymore as they are too unreliable.
I've read in more than one forum the 6Ah batteries use 20 Amp cells, whereas the 5Ah uses 25 Amp cells. It's a tradeoff between heat vs runtime vs max amperage.
@@kenb6144 6ah pack use 15a rated, 5ah use 20a rated. xgt 2.5ah use 25a rated
Xgt track saw is a weapon
Nice Review. There was an issue with the thin efficutblades, that on some Occassions the Cutline gets wobbly and takes a curve. Especially on thicker/harder material. Did this ever occur to you? I think this may also be a reason why makita lowered the rpm on the new 40v plunge saw. Greetings from another part of the world 😉
Yes cos the efficut are optimised for battery saws (thinner kerf to save battery) you need a thicker blade to manage deflection 2mm+ or increase speed and slow your feed rate but then you can burn your material.
Also efficut blades suck to sharpen and chip easily.
Just the nature of the beast
I just use a thicker Freud blade…
@@ollie9199 and how did that affect your cutting speed and battery lifetime with the thicker blades? One of the major points in which the makita plunge saw is praised is its effortless fast cutting like butter. But one of the keypoints to that is the really thin efficutblades which could tend to produce those wobbly cuts on higher strain. So i'm interested in like how much it changes the performance of the saw with using a "normal" blade over the efficutblades. Greetings
My LS003 has arrived now.
Holy s.... is it big. Ok, I never had any kind of mitre saw, only at work. But like half the size.
But we have sundy and I'm just back from work an only want to sleep now.
Mine has been sitting here for 3 weeks. But I've injured my back and can't get it out of the box! Maybe tomorrow...
Why there is no table saw tool on Makita???
Milwaukee and Dewalt did it but makita no!!! :(
best review
4 amp 40volt is $200 last time i checked home depots site. Whut?
The 18x2 plunge saw is for sure one of the uglier 18x2 ones, but the prize for ugliest and clunkiest goes to the 18x2 angle grinder for me... One look at it was enough for me to go "Nope... I'll use a bloody corded one over that thing" 😂
когда у Макита выйдет повербанк 220 вольт как у Дэволт на 4 батареях.
I wish Makita would put riving knives on their saws. DeWalt, Mafell, Festool and several others do.
Would you be able to fit a bigger saw blade to get a few more mm?
What size blade are you thinking?
@@ToolsAndStuffOFFICIAL 170mm but not sure if there is enough room up top and so that it doesn't stick past the bottom
And you can get a 170mm blade?
@@ToolsAndStuffOFFICIAL bosch 170mm 48t with 20mm bore
Well that would probably work. As this tool, along with several other Makita circular blade based tools, has 2 sets of marks on the base indicating different blade sizes.
Are both made in China?
Makita, why why why will you not add the addition of a riving knife, definitely the biggest flaw on this machine, it also can make it very dangerous in certain circumstances, the reason I won’t be purchasing it, looks like I’ll be sticking with TS55. Very disappointing, great reviews dude keep them coming
I was sceptic too, but have to say after hundreds of plunge cuts i never had a problem. Using your head helps a lot, dont ram it in there. Just Eaze it in.
A bit easier too without a (fixed) knife and the markings on the side of the casing.
@@joepmeloen3373 I’ve owned the corded makita years ago when they where 1st released and when cutting trespa or cheap building grade ply it would snag when getting closer to the end of the run, I found myself using a wedge to help, the riving knife doesn’t need to be fixed, it could be spring loaded and drop into the cut line, it’s not the plunging that’s the problem, issues start when cutting unstable materials like ply, damp timbers etc, I appreciate its a good machine with stable materials but they can learn a lot from festool, I’ve always been a makita fan but this saw just isn’t their yet, but if it works for you then happy days.
Mafell doesn’t have a riving knife. Festool doesn’t anymore either.
A riving knife will lock you into a specific blade kerf. The Makita opens up a lot of blade options. Plus the Makita has the electronic anti-kickback feature.
@@maltaylor8146 yeah when the material pinches the blade ill use a wedge too. But 99,99% of the time im using the saw on stable sheet goods so its never a problem.
For that rougher timber i have other options with a knife.
What is AWS ?
Their annoying system of wirelessly switching the dust extractors on and off. You pay $50-100 extra for the ability to install the module. And then you still have to buy the module for over $75. Every tool will need it’s own $75 module. Once that’s sorted, it will turn the vacuum on when you turn on the tool. Realistically, routers and sanders and things are going to be corded. So, that leaves you with when using a rotary hammer which you’ll want the vacuum on and not have it tool actuated or the occasional indoor sawing (and most of us have corded track saws…). Long story short: I do what we’ve all been doing for ages…use a remote on off button that’s tied to the hose.
The 40 volt is a fantastic track saw, extremely smooth. Depth of cut know is nob is not a issue, very accurate.
Clamping the top of n he track? Why not use clamps that fit in the track?
For Europe the 2x18V model is made in the UK so I'd easily take that over the 40V, I think all 40V models come from China currently.
It doesn't matter where its made
@@alexc.239 I prefer my track saws made in russia. It'll make the cut lines just disappear!
@@alexc.239 I'd rather supper 500 jobs at their UK plant then 500 jobs in their China plant. It doesn't matter to you where it is made until you lose your job to someone in a low cost country.
Bothe saws in this video were made in China. My 40v Impact Driver was made in Japan.
@@ToolsAndStuffOFFICIAL Yea, different plants for different regions, but so for 40V is China only for Europe. Makita has their UK and Romania and their Germany plant pretty much exclusively supply Europe, but for example the brushless barrel grip jigsaw is made in the UK for all markets. They also export some models from their USA plant.
I wish they would stop painting the blades.
Try the Flourine coated blades, they are way better.
@@ToolsAndStuffOFFICIAL Does the flourine come off on the cut edge?
Nope.
@@ToolsAndStuffOFFICIAL good to know, quite like the diablo blades but they make a proper mess
Keeps the rust off in shipping.
If you use the track clamps they make for the track you don't have any issues with the saw hitting the clamp. They clamp the track from below.
Love ya content as always but the shortcomings and gripes I have with Makita saws have irreversibly converted me to Mafell…
Maybe
Who needs to read manual when you have Mr Tools to the rescue. Thanks mate
40v cut faster because it comes with a thinner kerf blade
Exactly the same blades.
I think the 2 × 18 is only 10% less than the XGT! So it depends on how and why you are using it...
Much more with the BL4040F
@ToolsAndStuffOFFICIAL Working time not power 40am from 36 not that big of a difference, it cut faster yes, less space, anti kickback. That's everything so it depends on what you are doing
No, you are incorrect. The 4F battery puts out 35% more watts than the standard 4. You seem to be comparing volts and Ah, not Amps and Watts.
Celine Highway
???
😎👌👍
Isn't 40v the same as 36v but just with marketing BS.
Did you even look at the two saws...
@@stuartmcarthur795
"Did you even look at the two saws..."
I love cryptic questions but tell me did you even understand my query?
Also, have you ever looked at other saws? Tell me honestly though Stu, can you even see saws.😂
@@iminabrons Asking if 40v is the same as 36v on a video specifically made to point out the differences...
Are you balls deep into the 18v platform? If so I would stay with 18v unless there are specific tool which you feel are lacking from the dual battery 36V
If you're planning on upgrading your other tools periodically and care enough about reduced size and weight then maybe it will be worth it to you, I personally will be waiting until prices have reduced once more people adopt the system.
At the end of the day there will be people who upgrade for the sake of upgrading just to have the best of the best and it's "worth it" to them.
The simple fact that many of the tools will be smaller and lighter with a single battery is reason enough for me to consider the upgrade, you however may have a different view.
I have to convert.... I bet most of your view is Americans. Might be worth it to mention imperial measurement too.
My 18x2 aws plunge saw also has a anti kickback feature I found that out the hard way.
I'm trying to figure out which Makita tools has it. Is yours the DSP601ZU by chance?
@@balazsbanhalmi hi yes this is the one but it doesnt really have a button for it i kinda figured it out by plunging the saw into a workpiece and going a little back. The saw noticed that and stopped. First i thought my battery was flat but that wasnt the case.