He's competent and a nice guy. I met him in Chicago as he was staying at the Fairmont Hotel, as I was, for the first Automechanika. Sadly, however, I go to sleep when I watch his videos.
@@GoTechTraining when you recognize that somebody does something way better then you, you send people that direction. In my opinion you folks have the best training classes on RUclips!
He who can turn madness into a method should be well celebrated. Best of all is showing methods of trouble shooting; the starting points or what to tackle first and how to work one's way through the complex technology that has become the modern automobile. Great stuff.
My father's 2003 Town & country had the same codes. I did a quick visual inspection and found the hoses attached to the purge solenoid were brittle/cracked. I also checked the gas cap and the o-ring on the cap was brittle too. $2 worth of vacuum hose and an $18 gas cap fixed it.
You're right. Unplugged the purge valve wire on the 05 Ram hemi and turned the connector so just the engine vac was connected. Checked it and it's pulling some vacuum right through the valve. The service manual says it vibrates 5 times a sec, so it makes sense that the seal inside is bad. Great video, thanks, that saved a lot of time!
Checking the easy thing first paid off for me and my 2015 Dodge Charger (with the mid 5.7) where I could tell the purge valve was open by simply using my finger (while the engine was running of course). Banged the valve on the manifold a few times thinking the solenoid assembly might be stuck, sprayed a tiny bit of WD-40 in there and when I started the engine again, no vacuum! Keep up the good work Eric and Co.
I had a Caravan come in last week with the same codes. Previous shop put in an ldp, replaced most of the rubber hoses, fuel cap and neck, and were looking at the tank or canister next. Total parts cannon. And just as you showed, the purge valve was the problem. It took time but it would intermittently internally leak vac when commanded off. To the shop's credit, they did smoke it and found nothing. I used a simple Mighty Vac with a gauge on the output port, and sometimes after about 5 mins the purge would start to leak down. Sometimes it wouldn't. It seemed to depend on how much vac I applied. 14-16 it would hold all day ( ok, I exaggerate, but for an hr) but above that it couldn't. IMO I would not use aftermarket purge valves on these systems. They just don't last. Buy the Chrysler OEM.
Another clearly explained diagnostic video. You have a gift for simplifying the complicated so anyone can understand it. Thanks for doing these videos...keep 'em coming!
Love all your videos. Been binge watching all of them. I enjoy more the diagnostic side instead of just parts changing or How-to just change parts. I own 5 vehicles, so Im always working on them on the weekends. Watching your stuff has shown me new ways of finding problems. Example, I have a 90' Suburban and its had a O2 sensor code on and off for years. Before I'd just change the sensors out. But this time I broke out the ohm meter and found the ground was pulling 1.7ohm at the ECM and causing the light to trip. I fixed the ground, now reading .2 and the light has been back. Thanks for all the great content!!
I'm a moper man. I've owned 17 Chrysler in my lifetime with 9 currently owned between my dad an I. Every modern Mopar I ever owned have had an issue with the purge valve. The issue with them is cheaply design solenoid will bind in the housing due to gunk build up. They can be cleaned with brake cleaner but that will only last for a few weeks. Since the valve is just $25 bucks pop, it's best to just replace it with a better designed aftermarket unit.
The aftermarket ones are even bigger junk! And if you have a Gen 3 system in a Chrysler, aftermarket purge valves don't even work properly on those systems out of the box. You need to go OEM, or it will continue to set ghost codes and drive you insane.
After changing the CCV filter in a Cummins earlier i am sorely reminded that I much prefer watching you wrench rather than me cuss while hunting an 8mm deep socket. You’re way smarter about vehicles too.
Been watching all of these videos just back to back, I just to wrench and stopped because of the politics in dealers but this channel is 100% making get back into it and make sourcing a problem fun again!! Thank you
i actually found my evap leak by mistake (sometimes we get lucky). i pulled back a plastic loom thinking it was a mess of wireing and bang there it was. The big tube going to the canister had a hole rubbed in it from a body seam. Wasn't looking for it but found it anyway, lucky me🙌
Always makes my day when an SMA video comes out! Turns a crappy day into a more pleasant one. Well explained. I know you've had a similar analogy with the gas can in a past vid. Hahaha and Vinny coming through seeing who you're talking to again. 😅😂😂
Great video! I used to inspect cars in upstate NY(Plattsburgh) ten years ago and evap failures were a big problem. Especially with all the salt on the roads up there. Of course I could get most of them to pass by clearing the code/codes and running it with a full tank of gas. It would run every monitor except the evap, but would still pass ;)
The only problem with that is you don't fix the car and make zero dollars on a repair and the engine light remains on.... It is similar to people who delete diesels. They only do it because it is easy and they have no idea how to fix them. Don't you think it would be more beneficial to your shop and your customers to just fix the cars the right way?
@@SouthMainAuto @nismo2070 had to move to a state (Oklahoma) where there is absolutely no vehicle safety or emission inspections, since he could not make a living in NY State giving away "repairs" for 1/10th of what it would cost the customer to fix correctly.
@@SouthMainAuto Absolutely! I did that as a last resort for good customers that were strapped for cash. We did end up repairing it properly, just after they got the sticker. Yes, I know it's cheating, but some people just can't afford the repair for months.
@@KCautodoctor I didn't "have" to move anywhere. The cost of living was getting out of hand in NY. My income DOUBLED by doing that and the cost of living is very low here. I make a very HONEST living here as the head tech at a very busy shop. We are very highly rated on all social platforms and have a great BBB rating.
@@nismo2070 amazing what happens when you properly charge a customer for the correct repair and not try to "patch it" just so they can get their legally required emissions inspection sticker. You are the one that was bragging about getting around doing a proper repair.
I used to work at a ski resort and my boss at the time overfilled his Chevy 2500 and since then it wouldn't take only a few pennies worth of fuel. What happened when he over filled his gas tank was the fuel ended up flowing into an evap solenoid (on the back of the gas tank) and blocking it from opening so air couldn't escape when filling the tank. Once the solenoid was replaced he could fill up his tank again.
Thank you for posting that link and for your vid. Even though my vehicle isn’t a van but I’ve been plagued with the EVAP codes for a while. Hard to really see sometimes what’s happening without a good scan tool. Thanks again for this “quick tip”. I’ll give it a try on the Jeep from Hell at the beginning of the week.
I got these two codes on a 2002 Caravan, come to find out, there was a technical service bulletin on this Leak Detection Pump (along with code p0456). Thank you for the video because parts of these bulletins are not for the average person.
BTW, fixed the evap leak on my 2002 Dodgy Caravan by replacing the rotten rubber cap on the canister with a plastic cap. If I put the crappy Chinesium rubber caps on they rotted off in a couple months.
Sometimes when purge solenoids go bad it causes an extended crank time after fueling the car with gas because the fuel vapors go into the intake and create an overly rich condition.
Definitely on GMs..Gross leak check the Purge Solenoid. The pintle does not move even though the coil in the solenoid is "good" (there is voltage drop), so the PCM assumes there is a leak because no fumes are drawn into the intake (no vacuum present)
Some GM models had a purge flow sensor that would detect if there was no purge flow when the purge solenoid was commanded opened. The most important thing is to know the system your troubleshooting. One of the hardest for me is Toyota/Lexus evap systems.
Another common problem on dodge/Chrysler Van's is a evap canister leak code. Those hoses going to the evap canister are held in place by plastic clamps that dry out and become brittle and in the end fail causing a small leak. Cant tell you how many of those I've fixed. I started carrying packs of clamps in assorted sizes just for that reason.
So In this scenario under mode 6 test it would pass the engine running test but fail the key off test..am I correct In this thinking. Thank you for taking the time to explain knowing how exactly the system operates makes it so much easier to understand.
Well, South Main, you failed to mention what you/you tell your customer to do after the new purge valve is installed. The customer may still see an engine light on or may be detected when going to get his inspection sticker (which failed because of the valve/0456 error). What's next to do? What do you tell your customer to do to be able to get the sticker??
I have a 2006 Town & country I had a PO455 code, but the day before the code came on I smelled gas fumes through the AC vents. could smell the fumes when I opened the hood so I tested the purge valve with the vacuum gauge it worked but it did not open all the way with very little vacuum, I hit it with a rubber mallet it opened all the way, put on a new one problem solved.
Could it be caused by not possibility to gas tank on station? It means, that I have to tank very very slowly reducing fuel pressure from the gun. My car is Chrysler Aspen 2008.
I tried this today. I got a vacuum from the purge solenoid. Tried a new part and it did the same thing. Am I doing something wrong? Car was a Caravan just like this video.
Hello Eric, I've been plagued with this po456 for a while now on my 2006 chrysler T&C. Found a broken hose clamp on the charcoal canister. Light went out only to come back on months later .Smoked it and can't find nothing but when I fill this 2006 Chrysler T&C up I got gas leaking out the top of the gas tank sending unit . Could this be where the small evap leak is and if it is why don't I see any smoke coming from there? Hope you or anybody else answers.
Will this code/issue cause engine stalling and shaking? 2016 Dodge Grand Caravan started acting up after the Dodge dealership put a new gas tank in. Gas cap light stays on.
I have that code popping up from time to time but that car has the shakes mine also shakes like that and runs lol like it's missing kinda but after tune up still the same. No other code at all only this sometimes
Have a 2005 Chrysler Pacifica w/a gross leak throwing a Po 455 code. When inspecting, I found the fuel filler tube leak at tube and inlet tube to the gas tank. I have looked and looked for a video on how to replace the fuel filler tube on said vehicle and can not find one. Do you have a video on how it is removed or can you point me in the direction to get a video on how it is done? Thanks. Ps: Have learned a lot from your videos. Thanks again.
I have a ? about getting a obd2 scanner/test for a jeep to do mode6 testing. Mostly misfire data. Looking to get one. Not looking for the most expensive one. But not look at a Cheap one. You seem to know alot and use different ones at time. Looking for your valve on them. Keep up with the good videos
Hey man got a quick question, can you do a video or at least tell me about which headgasket sealer liquid is the best nowadays. My ram 4.7 magnum is on its edge i live in SC and my coldstart has white misty smoke everymorning out of my tailpipe. Any suggestions?
I have a 2005 Chevy Malibu that occasionally throws code P0445 when I start the car, but only if the gas tank is at 75%, 50% or 25% full. Could the root cause of that be the same as what is described in this video? The only potential fix I've had suggested to me is replacing a sensor that sits on top of the fuel tank which would require the tank to be removed to do so. It doesn't seem to affect anything at all so I've just been clearing that code when it pops up, which isn't too often.
Hey just a quick question, I have a 2006 dodge caravan, it is displaying an P0404 (EGR) which was replaced. Would a vacuum issue trigger that code or would it show as 455 and 456? Thanks!
Hi, Eric. I don't know if you reply to viewers or not, but here I go. I have a turbo civic 2018 with 21k miles that sat for a year due to me being overseas. A week after I started driving it, I noticed both p0455 and p0456. I tested the purge solenoid in the engine bay, and that's fine. My next guess is the canister vent valve. The gas tank is capless, so i lubed it well in case the seal wasn't closing. Can you help me out?
Funny enough im in the middle of removing the entire dashboard on an 05 town and country to replace the evaporator. I think your problem is easier to fix than mine i tell you what.
From where you get the wiring diagram and working diagram for any make and model while diagnosing is there any specific website or anything else let every body know through your comments sir kindly rply sir😊😊
Eric..i was checking a ground on the pcm connector. Battery disconnected and all pcm connectors unplugged. Its 0.2ohms...however when the battery is connected it jumps to 12ohms..why is that?
Hi U R; Well, I am not Eric but as an electronics engineer I'll take a quick stab at answering your question. When you are using an Ohmmeter on a circuit if you want an accurate reading one of the underlying assumptions is that there is no voltage or current in the circuit other than that supplied by the Ohmmeter itself. Any externally applied voltage or current will upset the reading on the Ohmmeter and make it invalid. Here is something you could try: I assume you are connecting the Ohmmeter between the PCM wiring harness connector ground pin and either the battery negative or a solid chassis ground. Leave the connections the same but set the meter to read DC volts (on a low range if not auto-ranging) and see if there is a small voltage present when you connect the battery. If there is, that explains your observation. If you do see such a voltage it may or may not indicate a problem that needs fixing. Typically such voltages are caused by current flow through the (possibly too high) resistance of a wire that causes a small voltage drop. Even though the PCM is unplugged there could be lots of other things in the vehicle drawing some current when you connect the battery. If any part of the path from the PCM wiring harness ground pin to the chassis ground is shared by some other circuit where there is current flow there can be a voltage drop in the wire that will invalidate your Ohmmeter reading. Pinpointing the location can be difficult and beyond the scope of a quick answer. Detailed and accurate wiring diagrams are your friend here... Good luck...
Go tell Mike B. @NGK that Eric O. sent ya! ruclips.net/video/k4MJ8zy3r_M/видео.html
I wondered if you followed him. I just found him from ngk/wells for my education
He's competent and a nice guy. I met him in Chicago as he was staying at the Fairmont Hotel, as I was, for the first Automechanika. Sadly, however, I go to sleep when I watch his videos.
@Mike B Eric O. sent me regardless
Thanks for sending people my way Eric O!!! Appreciate it a ton!
@@GoTechTraining when you recognize that somebody does something way better then you, you send people that direction. In my opinion you folks have the best training classes on RUclips!
He who can turn madness into a method should be well celebrated. Best of all is showing methods of trouble shooting; the starting points or what to tackle first and how to work one's way through the complex technology that has become the modern automobile. Great stuff.
My father's 2003 Town & country had the same codes. I did a quick visual inspection and found the hoses attached to the purge solenoid were brittle/cracked. I also checked the gas cap and the o-ring on the cap was brittle too. $2 worth of vacuum hose and an $18 gas cap fixed it.
You're right. Unplugged the purge valve wire on the 05 Ram hemi and turned the connector so just the engine vac was connected. Checked it and it's pulling some vacuum right through the valve. The service manual says it vibrates 5 times a sec, so it makes sense that the seal inside is bad. Great video, thanks, that saved a lot of time!
Checking the easy thing first paid off for me and my 2015 Dodge Charger (with the mid 5.7) where I could tell the purge valve was open by simply using my finger (while the engine was running of course). Banged the valve on the manifold a few times thinking the solenoid assembly might be stuck, sprayed a tiny bit of WD-40 in there and when I started the engine again, no vacuum!
Keep up the good work Eric and Co.
Thanks for putting this together...solved my issue on an '08 Caliber. Total cost: $11.00 from junkyard.
I had a Caravan come in last week with the same codes. Previous shop put in an ldp, replaced most of the rubber hoses, fuel cap and neck, and were looking at the tank or canister next. Total parts cannon. And just as you showed, the purge valve was the problem. It took time but it would intermittently internally leak vac when commanded off. To the shop's credit, they did smoke it and found nothing. I used a simple Mighty Vac with a gauge on the output port, and sometimes after about 5 mins the purge would start to leak down. Sometimes it wouldn't. It seemed to depend on how much vac I applied. 14-16 it would hold all day ( ok, I exaggerate, but for an hr) but above that it couldn't. IMO I would not use aftermarket purge valves on these systems. They just don't last. Buy the Chrysler OEM.
Another clearly explained diagnostic video. You have a gift for simplifying the complicated so anyone can understand it. Thanks for doing these videos...keep 'em coming!
Love all your videos. Been binge watching all of them. I enjoy more the diagnostic side instead of just parts changing or How-to just change parts. I own 5 vehicles, so Im always working on them on the weekends. Watching your stuff has shown me new ways of finding problems. Example, I have a 90' Suburban and its had a O2 sensor code on and off for years. Before I'd just change the sensors out. But this time I broke out the ohm meter and found the ground was pulling 1.7ohm at the ECM and causing the light to trip. I fixed the ground, now reading .2 and the light has been back. Thanks for all the great content!!
I'm a moper man. I've owned 17 Chrysler in my lifetime with 9 currently owned between my dad an I. Every modern Mopar I ever owned have had an issue with the purge valve. The issue with them is cheaply design solenoid will bind in the housing due to gunk build up. They can be cleaned with brake cleaner but that will only last for a few weeks. Since the valve is just $25 bucks pop, it's best to just replace it with a better designed aftermarket unit.
The aftermarket ones are even bigger junk! And if you have a Gen 3 system in a Chrysler, aftermarket purge valves don't even work properly on those systems out of the box. You need to go OEM, or it will continue to set ghost codes and drive you insane.
Thank you for making these videos. Most of us like all the kinds of videos you make, circuit diag to engine swaps, We love it all!
After changing the CCV filter in a Cummins earlier i am sorely reminded that I much prefer watching you wrench rather than me cuss while hunting an 8mm deep socket.
You’re way smarter about vehicles too.
Been watching all of these videos just back to back, I just to wrench and stopped because of the politics in dealers but this channel is 100% making get back into it and make sourcing a problem fun again!! Thank you
You're a good teacher you make things simple so people can understand
Literally just replaced my Purge Valve/Solenoid this morning!
I think Miss Marie wants some camera time. That's why she's stealth-ing into the background shots.
You noticed that too. I am pretty sure it was intentional.
YOU always explain these problems and fix very well....
Hey Eric! Keep up the great work love your videos!
i actually found my evap leak by mistake (sometimes we get lucky). i pulled back a plastic loom thinking it was a mess of wireing and bang there it was. The big tube going to the canister had a hole rubbed in it from a body seam. Wasn't looking for it but found it anyway, lucky me🙌
Always makes my day when an SMA video comes out! Turns a crappy day into a more pleasant one.
Well explained. I know you've had a similar analogy with the gas can in a past vid. Hahaha and Vinny coming through seeing who you're talking to again. 😅😂😂
Love Mike Becker's vids! He's an awesome instructor. I'm sure he'll appreciate the shout-out!
Great video! I used to inspect cars in upstate NY(Plattsburgh) ten years ago and evap failures were a big problem. Especially with all the salt on the roads up there. Of course I could get most of them to pass by clearing the code/codes and running it with a full tank of gas. It would run every monitor except the evap, but would still pass ;)
The only problem with that is you don't fix the car and make zero dollars on a repair and the engine light remains on.... It is similar to people who delete diesels. They only do it because it is easy and they have no idea how to fix them. Don't you think it would be more beneficial to your shop and your customers to just fix the cars the right way?
@@SouthMainAuto @nismo2070 had to move to a state (Oklahoma) where there is absolutely no vehicle safety or emission inspections, since he could not make a living in NY State giving away "repairs" for 1/10th of what it would cost the customer to fix correctly.
@@SouthMainAuto Absolutely! I did that as a last resort for good customers that were strapped for cash. We did end up repairing it properly, just after they got the sticker. Yes, I know it's cheating, but some people just can't afford the repair for months.
@@KCautodoctor I didn't "have" to move anywhere. The cost of living was getting out of hand in NY. My income DOUBLED by doing that and the cost of living is very low here. I make a very HONEST living here as the head tech at a very busy shop. We are very highly rated on all social platforms and have a great BBB rating.
@@nismo2070 amazing what happens when you properly charge a customer for the correct repair and not try to "patch it" just so they can get their legally required emissions inspection sticker. You are the one that was bragging about getting around doing a proper repair.
I used to work at a ski resort and my boss at the time overfilled his Chevy 2500 and since then it wouldn't take only a few pennies worth of fuel. What happened when he over filled his gas tank was the fuel ended up flowing into an evap solenoid (on the back of the gas tank) and blocking it from opening so air couldn't escape when filling the tank. Once the solenoid was replaced he could fill up his tank again.
Thank you for posting that link and for your vid. Even though my vehicle isn’t a van but I’ve been plagued with the EVAP codes for a while. Hard to really see sometimes what’s happening without a good scan tool. Thanks again for this “quick tip”. I’ll give it a try on the Jeep from Hell at the beginning of the week.
Excellent tip Eric!
I’m a diesel guy and I struggle with evap systems , great explanation ty!!
I got these two codes on a 2002 Caravan, come to find out, there was a technical service bulletin on this Leak Detection Pump (along with code p0456). Thank you for the video because parts of these bulletins are not for the average person.
BTW, fixed the evap leak on my 2002 Dodgy Caravan by replacing the rotten rubber cap on the canister with a plastic cap. If I put the crappy Chinesium rubber caps on they rotted off in a couple months.
I remember someone else chasing a difficult leak and demonstrated it really well. I think it was Paul Danner? 🤔👍
using soapy water at the canister hose with small leak, smoke would not go through such as a small leak...
'O family produces some of the better videos on RUclips. Love "day in the shop". Thanks!
Great explanation, Eric, as always. You should become a teacher. There's something the way you explain things. Love it.
You were the first channel I supported on the Patriots thing. Or Patreon thing. Anyway, love your videos. 👍👍 Best teacher ever!!
Thankyou for that quick description and quick diagnose.
Sometimes when purge solenoids go bad it causes an extended crank time after fueling the car with gas because the fuel vapors go into the intake and create an overly rich condition.
That happens when they stick wide open, usually. In this case it's more like a tiny leak in the valve.
Thanks for the tip Eric O. Will definitely check out his video and tell him SMA sent me.Have a good weekend 👍
Very well explained. Thank you, Eric.
Inhance inhance inhance inhance..... IDK why that makes me laugh... Love the video dude. Keep em coming.
Miss Marie likes to give the boss a WIDE berth when he's talking to himself!
@Dirty Harry
or just crazy.....
@Dirty Harry
Men do end up pushing lotsa buttons....
When the boss is a yackin', don't come a knockin' :)
Thank you Eric. Good job. Have a blessed and safe week.
At least Chryslers fail predictably. 😁
Great info, Eric. Thanks! 👍👍🍻
Definitely on GMs..Gross leak check the Purge Solenoid. The pintle does not move even though the coil in the solenoid is "good" (there is voltage drop), so the PCM assumes there is a leak because no fumes are drawn into the intake (no vacuum present)
Some GM models had a purge flow sensor that would detect if there was no purge flow when the purge solenoid was commanded opened. The most important thing is to know the system your troubleshooting. One of the hardest for me is Toyota/Lexus evap systems.
1st thing I check on anything Purge valve
love your videos Eric and company
a Chrylser product with an evap leak, who'd have ever guessed that :))
I don't get it.
Barry Chrysler’s are total junk.
@@beezertwelvewashingbeard8703 Some people like to trash Chrysler products. They're wrong, but, heh - it is what it is.
@@zachwulf6961 Why?
Barry poor quality
Good diag and quick explanation and demonstration
Add the TIPM to the equation and you got yourself a mighty fine vehicle to drive.
Don't forget Chrysler's infamous bad grounds and poorly located PCMs.
_"Enhance, enhance..."_
That's what SHE said! 😜
Purge is usually where i go first on all chrysler evap codes. So quick and easy to test to rule out. But most likely source of problem lol
Clear, concise, well explained. Just WOW!
These are great. Your explanation was perfect. Oh yeah, Mike kicks butt over there.
Another common problem on dodge/Chrysler Van's is a evap canister leak code. Those hoses going to the evap canister are held in place by plastic clamps that dry out and become brittle and in the end fail causing a small leak. Cant tell you how many of those I've fixed. I started carrying packs of clamps in assorted sizes just for that reason.
So In this scenario under mode 6 test it would pass the engine running test but fail the key off test..am I correct In this thinking. Thank you for taking the time to explain knowing how exactly the system operates makes it so much easier to understand.
Well done sir. Thanks Dr. O!
Your video's are awesome and a great help for the backyard mechanic
WOW’ Thanks Buddy That Was The Simplest Explanation I’ve Ever Seen🤙
Been driving my van for the last 3 1/2 years with an evap code. Runs and drives perfectly fine. I just turn off the engine light each time.
Well, South Main, you failed to mention what you/you tell your customer to do after the new purge valve is installed. The customer may still see an engine light on or may be detected when going to get his inspection sticker (which failed because of the valve/0456 error). What's next to do? What do you tell your customer to do to be able to get the sticker??
I have a 2006 Town & country I had a PO455 code, but the day before the code came on I smelled gas fumes through the AC vents. could smell the fumes when I opened the hood so I tested the purge valve with the vacuum gauge it worked but it did not open all the way with very little vacuum, I hit it with a rubber mallet it opened all the way, put on a new one problem solved.
Could it be caused by not possibility to gas tank on station? It means, that I have to tank very very slowly reducing fuel pressure from the gun. My car is Chrysler Aspen 2008.
Enhanced Tip Saturday
Thanks!
I tried this today. I got a vacuum from the purge solenoid. Tried a new part and it did the same thing. Am I doing something wrong? Car was a Caravan just like this video.
Watching from las Vegas Thanks I not mecanic all do I have great respect for the knowledge you are shering
Wish you were in Arizona. Thank you for the great video. I replaced that and it won’t start, again.
Hello Eric, I've been plagued with this po456 for a while now on my 2006 chrysler T&C. Found a broken hose clamp on the charcoal canister. Light went out only to come back on months later .Smoked it and can't find nothing but when I fill this 2006 Chrysler T&C up I got gas leaking out the top of the gas tank sending unit . Could this be where the small evap leak is and if it is why don't I see any smoke coming from there? Hope you or anybody else answers.
Another class video, with footnotes if we need to go deeper. Thank you.
Will this code/issue cause engine stalling and shaking? 2016 Dodge Grand Caravan started acting up after the Dodge dealership put a new gas tank in. Gas cap light stays on.
Hey that's just like my van! Mine was the NVLD itself. It was a PITA to change.
Can Miss Marie do a "Day in the Life of Marie at SMA"?
I have that code popping up from time to time but that car has the shakes mine also shakes like that and runs lol like it's missing kinda but after tune up still the same. No other code at all only this sometimes
I'm checking the ac for a friend, 2005 dodge grand caravan the ac clutch fuse keeps blowing
When you used the vacuum gauge, you unhooked the bottom hose and placed the vacuum gauge there? Sorry if its a stupid question?
south main auto.so was it the purge control valve?????
I have the 0456 code and a 0072 which ambient temperature code. What do you think it might be the issue
Have a 2005 Chrysler Pacifica w/a gross leak throwing a Po 455 code. When inspecting, I found the fuel filler tube leak at tube and inlet tube to the gas tank. I have looked and looked for a video on how to replace the fuel filler tube on said vehicle and can not find one. Do you have a video on how it is removed or can you point me in the direction to get a video on how it is done? Thanks. Ps: Have learned a lot from your videos. Thanks again.
I have a ? about getting a obd2 scanner/test for a jeep to do mode6 testing. Mostly misfire data. Looking to get one. Not looking for the most expensive one. But not look at a Cheap one. You seem to know alot and use different ones at time. Looking for your valve on them. Keep up with the good videos
Thanks for the video.
Bought a 98 GMC Sierra no key replaced with auto zone cylinder lock and key no start and the security light is on solid...need some help plz
Very informative
Purge solenoid .. tick tick .. tick tock
I'd love to see a video with an interview with Vinnie. Seems like he has some stories to tell.
I don't think he is much of a talker. But would be interesting if he is.
Hey man got a quick question, can you do a video or at least tell me about which headgasket sealer liquid is the best nowadays. My ram 4.7 magnum is on its edge i live in SC and my coldstart has white misty smoke everymorning out of my tailpipe. Any suggestions?
Super Tip Saturday Dr. O.
Lol @ "The money light is on" 😂😂😂 that's exactly what it is.
We're did he put vacuum hose ,did someone see it
evap system integrity module esim... works the same an nvld
Great explanation! Nicely done!
I have a 2005 Chevy Malibu that occasionally throws code P0445 when I start the car, but only if the gas tank is at 75%, 50% or 25% full. Could the root cause of that be the same as what is described in this video? The only potential fix I've had suggested to me is replacing a sensor that sits on top of the fuel tank which would require the tank to be removed to do so. It doesn't seem to affect anything at all so I've just been clearing that code when it pops up, which isn't too often.
Hey just a quick question, I have a 2006 dodge caravan, it is displaying an P0404 (EGR) which was replaced. Would a vacuum issue trigger that code or would it show as 455 and 456? Thanks!
Great video Eric O
Thanks, I had ask for you to explain this lvld in an older video. Thx alot again
Hi, Eric. I don't know if you reply to viewers or not, but here I go. I have a turbo civic 2018 with 21k miles that sat for a year due to me being overseas. A week after I started driving it, I noticed both p0455 and p0456. I tested the purge solenoid in the engine bay, and that's fine. My next guess is the canister vent valve. The gas tank is capless, so i lubed it well in case the seal wasn't closing. Can you help me out?
Speaking of Chrysler products.. would you buy a 2019 Wrangler with the pentastar and automatic trans?
Nope!
Funny enough im in the middle of removing the entire dashboard on an 05 town and country to replace the evaporator. I think your problem is easier to fix than mine i tell you what.
Did you hook the vacuum guage to the tank port. Your hand was in the way.
From where you get the wiring diagram and working diagram for any make and model while diagnosing is there any specific website or anything else let every body know through your comments sir kindly rply sir😊😊
Eric..i was checking a ground on the pcm connector. Battery disconnected and all pcm connectors unplugged. Its 0.2ohms...however when the battery is connected it jumps to 12ohms..why is that?
Hi U R; Well, I am not Eric but as an electronics engineer I'll take a quick stab at answering your question. When you are using an Ohmmeter on a circuit if you want an accurate reading one of the underlying assumptions is that there is no voltage or current in the circuit other than that supplied by the Ohmmeter itself. Any externally applied voltage or current will upset the reading on the Ohmmeter and make it invalid. Here is something you could try: I assume you are connecting the Ohmmeter between the PCM wiring harness connector ground pin and either the battery negative or a solid chassis ground. Leave the connections the same but set the meter to read DC volts (on a low range if not auto-ranging) and see if there is a small voltage present when you connect the battery. If there is, that explains your observation. If you do see such a voltage it may or may not indicate a problem that needs fixing. Typically such voltages are caused by current flow through the (possibly too high) resistance of a wire that causes a small voltage drop. Even though the PCM is unplugged there could be lots of other things in the vehicle drawing some current when you connect the battery. If any part of the path from the PCM wiring harness ground pin to the chassis ground is shared by some other circuit where there is current flow there can be a voltage drop in the wire that will invalidate your Ohmmeter reading. Pinpointing the location can be difficult and beyond the scope of a quick answer. Detailed and accurate wiring diagrams are your friend here... Good luck...
How about be EVAP leak on 2011 F-150 and I have replaced EVAP Sel and fuel gauge still don't work
Scrap it and get a Chevy
Roadkill, hmmmm... and they are always driving a SCRAPLER!?! Seems appropriate.
Replaced my leaking purge with one from dodge ... new one leaks...
Yeah but what was actually broken?
Two thumbs way up! Thanks for that -