I always see on DIY videos people running a knife blade down the length of the wire covering risking nicking the insulation on the wires. The safest way to remove the cover is to only cut about an inch of it and then pull on the ground wire to the desired length which will easily split open the cover
Thanks Nick. Many people don't know a GFCI has two sets of screws and incoming power always goes to the line screws (hot and neutral). The load screws are only for feeding & protecting extra outlets downstream from the GFCI. If you connect power to the load screws, there is no shock protection from the GFCI.
Thank you for taking the time and making the effort to help those in need of your experience. I'm not a video producer, nor a master electrician. I haven't made a single video. I'm, most likely, not as smart as you. I just started watching the video, and the first thing I see, after the introduction, is you standing at an unused box, with a blank plate. Now... if I needed instruction on how to do this, chances are... I'm not qualified to do this without your help. And, my first question is gonna be: "Why are you at this box, inside the home, when you're supposed to be showing us how to install an outside receptacle?" Those who need this instruction probably don't know what you're doing. Otherwise, they wouldn't be looking for help. If I didn't know why you were there, I would ask... Why are you standing at THAT box, & testing it for power? Why are you drilling a hole? What's on the opposite side of that hole? Is there anything in the wall that might make drilling through it a bad idea? I don't mean to appear pretentious, snotty, or pretend to be a "know it all". I'm none of those. But if I was standing next to you, trying to understand why you're doing what you're doing... I'd have questions. Rightfully so. And to this point, you haven't mentioned a thing. There are probably some viewers that wondered what they'd do, if that box hadn't conveniently been there. They might even be wondering why that unused box was there, in the first place. My head would be spinning with questions. My entire premise is: Theory, DURING the process of demonstration. The lack of it creates confusion. I haven't seen the entire video, so I don't even know if any of my questions were answered. So... I apologize if I've offended anyone. This gentleman was nice enough to make this video possible, by sharing his experiences. I was not knocking his work ethic, knowledge, nor experience. Just explaining how theory, during the demonstration, could eliminate possible confusion in the future. I just happen to be one of those types of people that look for the "Who, What, When, Where, & Why" of whatever I want to know about.
I mounted my box like you demonstrated, and my kid knocked it right off the wall when he ran past it with a snow ski in his hands. The screws tore right out, with some of the siding. When I reinstalled it, put in larger diameter screws, and long enough to penetrate the sheathing. As another viewer recommended, I also shimmed the lower half, where the box sits further out from the siding. Then I had my kid purposefully run into the box again. There, fixed it for you.
Because I had you explain it slowly, I was able to understand even English me whom I was hard for to deal with. Thank you. Surely you will be a splendid skill person.
I would recommend making sure your wire exits in the center of a shingle then you are guaranteed a flat surface which helps ensure the box is more secure. Also use sheet metal or some type of weather resistant screws.
@@henrypratt3742 Didn't mean to offend you, what i said concerning the screws was sheet metal or some type of weather resistant screws. And for those who think I'm unqualified. I am a 43 year electrical veteran in business for 33 years, teaching at a tech school for 10
First let me say that I have not watched this video. There is s very good reason! This video was produced in 2012! NEC has been revised twice since then. My reason for commenting is that there are lots of comments that are less than 1 year old. The most recent NEC major revision was in 2017. Any work since those revisions requires a WR (weather resistant) receptacle in any outdoor environment! Also new work should include TR (tamper resistant) receptacles. Since neither were required in 2012, you have most likely (see initial sentence) gotten out of date information from this video.
Truly phenomenal! I sincerely appreciated explaining little details like not needing the locknut if the opening is already threaded. Or using needlenose pliers to remove the protective tabs. Thank you so much!
Thanks for the video. I just came to see how to mount the box on an inside wall since it has no holes (did notice the metal tabs with 2 holes and had no idea). Now I know. Thanks again.
Nicely connected, although a piece of cedar should have been installed behind the lower half of the box where it overhangs the siding. Makes for a more secure mount, and just as important, a much nicer looking job.
Thanks to this channel for this high quality video! Some constructive criticism on the outside part of shown installation: @ 8:39 mark, the strip gage is about 11mm (~7/16″). The stripped wire ends ended up being 14mm -ish (~9/16″). When you push the Live and Neutral wires all the way into the holes and fasten them, the stripped parts of wires should not be visible (should barely be visible). Just cut the excessive ~2/16″ away, and you're golden. As is shown @ 10:02 mark, you almost can fit two stripped Ground wires side-by side on the stripped part of the fastened "hot" wire. Should this happen, an RCD switch will cut the power, if RCD switch is present and the wiring is done correctly; or you can create a short circuit and a circuit breaker actuates, again cutting the power. These were the best case scenarios. IMO this particular receptacle isn't designed with the *bare* ground wire in mind - there are "hot" exposed conductive surfaces allover this receptacle. These surfaces could contact any bare wires in the receptacle box, creating a short circuit or making some of the other conductive surfaces "hot". As some of the previous comments mentioned, the boxes need to be mounted tight and level. I'm not a native speaker, sorry for my English! Thank you and stay safe! TL/DR: a) you should have no access to stripped wire ends once they're fastened, else you could burn your house down, b) use modern cables and receptacles, meeting acknowledged standards like IEC, c) fasten the receptacle boxes level and tight!
Regarding stripped wire ends: don't put the unstripped insulation-covered part of the wire inside the receptacle's holes/under the screw either. Else you could burn your house down. The stripped part should not be accessable to wires/tools, but the insulation shouldn't enter the hole either.
@@paulgrim3501 I'm not familiar w/ North America's cables. What I can understand from the Wiki page, the "Romex" trademark cable's ground wire (G) is not insulated. Maybe there are different brands of cables w/ an insulated G? If I absolutely had to use it with the plug similar to the one shown in the video, I'd make sure there would be no chance of G wire touching a "hot" surface by insulating G (e.g. with a green or yellow/green insulation tape, leaving the ~11mm - or whatever the norm is - bare tip under the respected screw/contact), and carefully placing it away from the L and N conductor surfaces/contacts (which are ideally recessed, and only accessible by an electrician's screwdriver/tester, the L/N wire ends themselves & the plug's "hot" parts) & cover these "hot" screws from the Ground wire as well (e.g. with a black insulation tape). The Ground wire is there for cutting the voltage to a faulty device (scenario, where a conductive surface, that shouldn't be "hot" becomes "hot" e.g. due to a current leak). If Ground touches a surface that is intended to be "hot", it'll defeat its purpose. Ideally it'll just trip the Residual-current device as soon as you turn the voltage on (flip the circuit breaker switch on) to this installation. Hope this was helpful. Stay safe!
@@paulgrim3501 There isn't a NM-B (Non-metallic sheathed cable - The generic name for Romex.) Does not come with an insulated ground wire. THHN or THWN is more appropriately used in this situation. An additional safeguard is to tape the sides of the receptacle (around the terminals) with electrical tape in order to insulate them against inadvertent contact with either them bare ground, or the other metal parts of the box.
Very nice. Especially the sealing at the back/cable entry. Went thru numerous videos and that's one critical part not addressed. Aren't there some double compression glands that could do a more robust installation?
Great video. Replacing an old GFCI outside as the old one busted over the summer... 😂 The metal box was grounded but not the outlet! Holly cow 🐮. How has this old house not burned down?
@@HandymanHustle I had one under my tankless unit that leaked and my GFCI faulted and I had to replace it because it got water in it and wouldn't reset. Lesson learned and I put latex caulk on it after installing a new GFCI.
After watching this video, I installed an outdoor outlet with ease! I couldn't believe how easy it was. I bought an outdoor outlet KIT from Home Depot that had everything except the wire clamp, so pick that up while you're there. Thanks again for the great video!
Really good video! I can see this method makes it possible to do all the exterior box wiring prior to mounting the box to the exterior wall making for a quick installation during the winter.
small thing,you can also use the duck seal to seal the anchor wall screws.But great job.I'll refer to this many times.You can tell you've done this a few times.lol.
So this helped me one the outside part and how to set it up, but I do not normally do electrical stuff on my own. After you strip the wires on the inside outlet where do you connect the outdoor wires to? Are you connecting them to the inside outlet and drawing your power from that outlet? I understand this is an extremely old video but I'm hoping somebody will see my comment and be able to help me out lol
The new wire and existing wires (which used to be connected to the outlet inside) get connected together. Then you add a short bit of wire from the existing outlet to the other two wires and use a wire nut to hook all 3 wires together. It's called a pigtail.
I bought an unfinished house where the seller had already drilled the holes to the outside and ran wires through them, but they're just sticking out from the house with caps on the ends but there's no electrical box, so it's basically how 3:10 shows it. Now I know what to do!
Wow. One of the best videos out there and didn't think of the clay like material for the hole . Done two before this video but for some reason this just made me more comfortable with it
I am enjoying your video. One question you are installing a GFCI outside outlet. Why a GFCI, is it because there are no other GFCI's on this circuit or do all outside outlets need to be on a GFCI?
Good video. It did not show that you tightened the top and bottom plugs very tight and the box looked loose. Did you put a screw in the bottom bracket?
How did you secure the other mounting screw for the box? You did one & what about the big gap between the house & the other mounting tab? Us newbies need to know this stuff.
Noticed that both leads were not pushed in completely, a bit of the copper was exposed. This also needs a insulation tape wound around the leads so as to avoid any shorting when using the outlet.
imagine my surprise when I reconnected my pool and the gfci wouldn't work. Turns out the licensed electrician didn't seal the box and water got in. The box he used was a piece of crap, probably used some spare gfci he had lying around, he caulked it badly, only one screw was holding the thing. Nice to see how it's properly done here
I listen to all the opinions from two legged creatures when someone is nice enough to post a video to show some on how to do small jobs and these people that have words downing someone post probably dont know how to change a spark plug..
Len Ricupero commas and periods help. I’m two years late, but oh well. Btw someone doesn’t know how to change a sparkplug... there is something seriously wrong there
Do they sell those mounting brackets separately? I have the same box. Just cant find the brackets. What are they called and the specific size? So I know what to look for or ask for.
Never mind I just drilled through the box. Ran out of time trying to find them. Guess its better to be electrocuted then the whole house to burn down lol
Not sure about your state but some states do NOT allow back to back outlets in wall. But I believe it is an International Building Code not NEC regarding fire resistant walls.
Thanks for the video. That outlet you installed is a GFCI. You need to be careful because these can be strung together with regular outlets. It provides protection for downstream outlets. The hot and neutral terminals on the top and bottom are not the Same. You wired the hot and neutral next to the ground wire. On the leviton boxes I bought, these are the downstream terminals. The outlet very well may work, but I imagine the GFCI is completely bypassed if your outlet is like mine. Does your GFCI test shut off the outlet?
Thank you for the great video. I have a question, is that plastic conduit next to the oulet running electrical wires? My house is 100+ years old and I want to run two new lines to the attic to update the wiring in the 2nd floor. I was thinking about using 1/2" metal conduit to bring the new lines up.
I an installing a fan under a deck. I added patio roofing under deck to catch rain, that dumps into a gutter. I also added a cover over were the fan will be installed. They way when it rains, it will catch the water run it away from fan box. Now, I have a power source. A exterior outlet in the wall that is 30ft away. How do I get the power. I need to keep the outlet and add a switch to fan. How do I change box to exterior box . Can I add this type of box right over the exisistng box hole?
I'm trying to install an outside plug for Christmas lights. Should I connect to wires to the "line" side not the "load" right? What happens if I do the opposite? Also, on the original plug inside my house, can I connect two wires (black inside and black going outside as well as white already connected on inside plug to white going outside) on each screw?
Did you end up putting a screw on the bottom right corner of the box? You don't show it in the video so I was just curious. I'm trying to avoid spending the extra $$ on a vinyl siding mounting block.
What is the argument between using the external J-box like you did versus recessing a box into the house? The latter is a more flush fit but probably also required some sealing tape and insulation around the box. Thoughts?
And also keep in mind that you pretty much can't do the recess version unless you're working with a completely flat surface. Otherwise, imagine how that would mount while trying to keep rain away. No bueno.
I noticed, at 10:03, that there was a bit of pultruding bare wire left on both, black and white wires after inserting them in the outlet. Isn’t that a hazardous thing?
People, please leave constructive criticism. Your negative comments don’t help anyone. Grow up, at least he is trying to help.
Dang man 11 years old and still the best video about doing this out there
I always see on DIY videos people running a knife blade down the length of the wire covering risking nicking the insulation on the wires. The safest way to remove the cover is to only cut about an inch of it and then pull on the ground wire to the desired length which will easily split open the cover
I agree completely. As an EMT, I was cringing as I watched him drag that knife toward his hand.
Thanks Nick. Many people don't know a GFCI has two sets of screws and incoming power always goes to the line screws (hot and neutral). The load screws are only for feeding & protecting extra outlets downstream from the GFCI. If you connect power to the load screws, there is no shock protection from the GFCI.
That’s evidence that some owners will tamper with wiring without reading the directions. Gives diy a bad name.
an Old Electrician of 35 yrs in 1975 told me. when installing and outlet or wall switch Remember"Black on Brass will save your a**"
Thank you for taking the time and making the effort to help those in need of your experience.
I'm not a video producer, nor a master electrician. I haven't made a single video. I'm, most likely, not as smart as you.
I just started watching the video, and the first thing I see, after the introduction, is you standing at an unused box, with a blank plate.
Now... if I needed instruction on how to do this, chances are... I'm not qualified to do this without your help. And, my first question is gonna be:
"Why are you at this box, inside the home, when you're supposed to be showing us how to install an outside receptacle?"
Those who need this instruction probably don't know what you're doing. Otherwise, they wouldn't be looking for help. If I didn't know why you were there, I would ask...
Why are you standing at THAT box, & testing it for power? Why are you drilling a hole? What's on the opposite side of that hole? Is there anything in the wall that might
make drilling through it a bad idea?
I don't mean to appear pretentious, snotty, or pretend to be a "know it all". I'm none of those. But if I was standing next to you, trying to understand why you're doing what
you're doing... I'd have questions. Rightfully so. And to this point, you haven't mentioned a thing. There are probably some viewers that wondered what they'd do, if that box
hadn't conveniently been there. They might even be wondering why that unused box was there, in the first place. My head would be spinning with questions.
My entire premise is: Theory, DURING the process of demonstration. The lack of it creates confusion. I haven't seen the entire video, so I don't even know if any of my questions
were answered. So... I apologize if I've offended anyone. This gentleman was nice enough to make this video possible, by sharing his experiences. I was not knocking his work
ethic, knowledge, nor experience. Just explaining how theory, during the demonstration, could eliminate possible confusion in the future. I just happen to be one of those
types of people that look for the "Who, What, When, Where, & Why" of whatever I want to know about.
Thank you so much for taking the time to share your expertise and skills in correctly installing an outside GFCI. Really appreciate it,
I mounted my box like you demonstrated, and my kid knocked it right off the wall when he ran past it with a snow ski in his hands. The screws tore right out, with some of the siding. When I reinstalled it, put in larger diameter screws, and long enough to penetrate the sheathing. As another viewer recommended, I also shimmed the lower half, where the box sits further out from the siding. Then I had my kid purposefully run into the box again. There, fixed it for you.
Because I had you explain it slowly, I was able to understand even English me whom I was hard for to deal with. Thank you. Surely you will be a splendid skill person.
This is exactly what I was looking for. This looks like it will work for new construction with vinyl rectangle boxes as well.
I would recommend making sure your wire exits in the center of a shingle then you are guaranteed a flat surface which helps ensure the box is more secure. Also use sheet metal or some type of weather resistant screws.
Sheet metal screws into wood siding?
@@henrypratt3742 Didn't mean to offend you, what i said concerning the screws was sheet metal or some type of weather resistant screws. And for those who think I'm unqualified. I am a 43 year electrical veteran in business for 33 years, teaching at a tech school for 10
I agree. I don't like how that box wasn't fully secured to the house.
Thanks!! I watched about six of these until I got to this one. Excellent quality video and sound . More importantly very well explained. Good job!!
On an uneven surface like the siding on this house he should have installed screws at all 4 corners of the box along with a spacer at bottom.
Absolutely!
definitely.
First let me say that I have not watched this video. There is s very good reason! This video was produced in 2012! NEC has been revised twice since then. My reason for commenting is that there are lots of comments that are less than 1 year old. The most recent NEC major revision was in 2017. Any work since those revisions requires a WR (weather resistant) receptacle in any outdoor environment! Also new work should include TR (tamper resistant) receptacles. Since neither were required in 2012, you have most likely (see initial sentence) gotten out of date information from this video.
Coy Patton He uses a weather resistant and child resistant outlet... :x
And I’m sure what may not have changed is that a electrical permit is required by the local Authority Having Jurisdiction(AHJ).
I wish all youtube videos were done by professionals like you rather than 15 y.o. kids. It was indeed useful.
Simple, plain, no tricks...very useful! Thanks, bro!!!
i like to put teflon tape around the "knockout seal". i find water always finds a way in if i don't
Me too! But I also drill a couple of small holes in the box and before I close it, i also dust the inside with ant or bugs killer
@@ip5232 you mean like drain holes in the bottom??…
@@Kenny_K2323 you can say that
Truly phenomenal! I sincerely appreciated explaining little details like not needing the locknut if the opening is already threaded. Or using needlenose pliers to remove the protective tabs. Thank you so much!
Thanks for the video. I just came to see how to mount the box on an inside wall since it has no holes (did notice the metal tabs with 2 holes and had no idea). Now I know. Thanks again.
Nick Excellent video clear, concise and complete nothing left out!
Nicely connected, although a piece of cedar should have been installed behind the lower half of the box where it overhangs the siding. Makes for a more secure mount, and just as important, a much nicer looking job.
strip guide on back of GFCI...Wow, never noticed. Thank you for video!
Really appreciate your guide! Just finished installing mine. Followed your instructions step by step.
Nice video, easy to understand but I did increase the speed of the video and didn't miss anything by this. Thanks.
Thanks CJ,I just bought one to install outside,same thing,great information and instructions.
Thanks to this channel for this high quality video!
Some constructive criticism on the outside part of shown installation: @ 8:39 mark, the strip gage is about 11mm (~7/16″). The stripped wire ends ended up being 14mm -ish (~9/16″). When you push the Live and Neutral wires all the way into the holes and fasten them, the stripped parts of wires should not be visible (should barely be visible). Just cut the excessive ~2/16″ away, and you're golden. As is shown @ 10:02 mark, you almost can fit two stripped Ground wires side-by side on the stripped part of the fastened "hot" wire. Should this happen, an RCD switch will cut the power, if RCD switch is present and the wiring is done correctly; or you can create a short circuit and a circuit breaker actuates, again cutting the power. These were the best case scenarios.
IMO this particular receptacle isn't designed with the *bare* ground wire in mind - there are "hot" exposed conductive surfaces allover this receptacle. These surfaces could contact any bare wires in the receptacle box, creating a short circuit or making some of the other conductive surfaces "hot".
As some of the previous comments mentioned, the boxes need to be mounted tight and level.
I'm not a native speaker, sorry for my English!
Thank you and stay safe!
TL/DR:
a) you should have no access to stripped wire ends once they're fastened, else you could burn your house down,
b) use modern cables and receptacles, meeting acknowledged standards like IEC,
c) fasten the receptacle boxes level and tight!
Regarding stripped wire ends: don't put the unstripped insulation-covered part of the wire inside the receptacle's holes/under the screw either. Else you could burn your house down.
The stripped part should not be accessable to wires/tools, but the insulation shouldn't enter the hole either.
@@xbxlxexhx Thank you. Nice tips. Regarding the "bare ground wire". Is there a romex cable with insulated ground wire?
@@paulgrim3501
I'm not familiar w/ North America's cables. What I can understand from the Wiki page, the "Romex" trademark cable's ground wire (G) is not insulated. Maybe there are different brands of cables w/ an insulated G?
If I absolutely had to use it with the plug similar to the one shown in the video, I'd make sure there would be no chance of G wire touching a "hot" surface by insulating G (e.g. with a green or yellow/green insulation tape, leaving the ~11mm - or whatever the norm is - bare tip under the respected screw/contact), and carefully placing it away from the L and N conductor surfaces/contacts (which are ideally recessed, and only accessible by an electrician's screwdriver/tester, the L/N wire ends themselves & the plug's "hot" parts) & cover these "hot" screws from the Ground wire as well (e.g. with a black insulation tape).
The Ground wire is there for cutting the voltage to a faulty device (scenario, where a conductive surface, that shouldn't be "hot" becomes "hot" e.g. due to a current leak). If Ground touches a surface that is intended to be "hot", it'll defeat its purpose. Ideally it'll just trip the Residual-current device as soon as you turn the voltage on (flip the circuit breaker switch on) to this installation.
Hope this was helpful. Stay safe!
@@xbxlxexhx Thank you!
@@paulgrim3501 There isn't a NM-B (Non-metallic sheathed cable - The generic name for Romex.) Does not come with an insulated ground wire. THHN or THWN is more appropriately used in this situation.
An additional safeguard is to tape the sides of the receptacle (around the terminals) with electrical tape in order to insulate them against inadvertent contact with either them bare ground, or the other metal parts of the box.
Thanks for the video. Content flow well, very easy to understand with level of technical details not many people cover.
Very nice. Especially the sealing at the back/cable entry. Went thru numerous videos and that's one critical part not addressed. Aren't there some double compression glands that could do a more robust installation?
This was the question I was wondering and wanted answer ed
Great video. Replacing an old GFCI outside as the old one busted over the summer... 😂 The metal box was grounded but not the outlet! Holly cow 🐮. How has this old house not burned down?
Great video Nick. Very informative video! Thank you
Don't forget to silicone or latex caulk the conduit plug at the top. Those leak even when tightened.
Don't these also often have plastic plugs? Some might want to upgrade to metal plugs if they're not included.
@@HandymanHustle I had one under my tankless unit that leaked and my GFCI faulted and I had to replace it because it got water in it and wouldn't reset. Lesson learned and I put latex caulk on it after installing a new GFCI.
Thank you. I needed a quick refresher on this. Now I can go to the project with minimal fumbling around.
Great video! Doing this today and appreciate the boost of confidence this video gives me. Thank you.
After watching this video, I installed an outdoor outlet with ease! I couldn't believe how easy it was. I bought an outdoor outlet KIT from Home Depot that had everything except the wire clamp, so pick that up while you're there. Thanks again for the great video!
Really good video! I can see this method makes it possible to do all the exterior box wiring prior to mounting the box to the exterior wall making for a quick installation during the winter.
Thank you! Exactly what I needed.
Clear and concise.People should model their how-to vids after this video.
Thank you. Gave me a good idea where and how to start. The rest can be easily figured out.
Great video. When mounting on brick or concrete I like to screw in the Romex strain relief from inside the box.
thanks - used your video to assist with my surface mounted outdoor weather-proof GFCI
small thing,you can also use the duck seal to seal the anchor wall screws.But great job.I'll refer to this many times.You can tell you've done this a few times.lol.
Absolutely Excellent Video Sir !
Thank you for your video
Thank you for this video. So well put together.
So this helped me one the outside part and how to set it up, but I do not normally do electrical stuff on my own. After you strip the wires on the inside outlet where do you connect the outdoor wires to? Are you connecting them to the inside outlet and drawing your power from that outlet? I understand this is an extremely old video but I'm hoping somebody will see my comment and be able to help me out lol
The new wire and existing wires (which used to be connected to the outlet inside) get connected together. Then you add a short bit of wire from the existing outlet to the other two wires and use a wire nut to hook all 3 wires together. It's called a pigtail.
I bought an unfinished house where the seller had already drilled the holes to the outside and ran wires through them, but they're just sticking out from the house with caps on the ends but there's no electrical box, so it's basically how 3:10 shows it. Now I know what to do!
Really nicely shown and explained - good pace!
Great job! I actually learned a lot by watching this video. Thanks
Wow. One of the best videos out there and didn't think of the clay like material for the hole . Done two before this video but for some reason this just made me more comfortable with it
Clear instructions and demonstration....Great video all around!
Excellent video and presentation!!!!
I am enjoying your video. One question you are installing a GFCI outside outlet. Why a GFCI, is it because there are no other GFCI's on this circuit or do all outside outlets need to be on a GFCI?
Great electrical outlet video.. calm voice!! Thanks
Good video. It did not show that you tightened the top and bottom plugs very tight and the box looked loose. Did you put a screw in the bottom bracket?
Wonderful job. Nice and patient, calm voice, great instructions. I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge. Thank you.
Nice now I can install one when building outdoor kitchens
Very Helpful ….thanks !
This is all well and good for wood or vinyl siding, but what if you want to repeat the process on a home made of brick?
You sound like Charles Bronson.
Good info! Thank you!
How did you secure the other mounting screw for the box? You did one & what about the big gap between the house & the other mounting tab? Us newbies need to know this stuff.
Nicely done and thanks!!
Just Stumbling on this! Thank You, Thank,Thank You! Made this so easy!
I just did it with my kid, So gloss to see this video, thanks 😊
Thank you! Super helpful and clear informative presentation
Thanks nick. I bought the exact box today
Noticed that both leads were not pushed in completely, a bit of the copper was exposed. This also needs a insulation tape wound around the leads so as to avoid any shorting when using the outlet.
Great job but I have a question. Do you have to put the ground wire to the box and the receptacle too or could it just be screwed onto the box?
imagine my surprise when I reconnected my pool and the gfci wouldn't work. Turns out the licensed electrician didn't seal the box and water got in. The box he used was a piece of crap, probably used some spare gfci he had lying around, he caulked it badly, only one screw was holding the thing. Nice to see how it's properly done here
An Arlington 4181 box with the 1/2" lap would have looked a whole lot better!
Good stuff, now just need to find the materials in this small town, thanks.
I really watching all of the videos and they are going to improve my carreer
I listen to all the opinions from two legged creatures when someone is nice enough to post a video to show some on how to do small jobs and these people that have words downing someone post probably dont know how to change a spark plug..
Len Ricupero commas and periods help. I’m two years late, but oh well. Btw someone doesn’t know how to change a sparkplug... there is something seriously wrong there
If this guy taught the correct way to install an outlet I'd agree. But he half assed it and is giving dangerous advice.
In the UK, we have gaskets where the cable knockouts are for the leads going into it.
Oh wow, I never knew about the strip guide on the GFCI lol
This video was a huge help while installing one of these
Thank you Sir, great video.
Hi Nick this was really a great video. Very informative.
great demo, tx!
Great video. Helped me out a ton! Thank you!
The box does not look property secure to the outside of the wall (wobbly ) it looks like you used drywall screw, which is not weatherproof.
Right? This guys work looks like shit
Very nice professional job!!!!!!
Do they sell those mounting brackets separately? I have the same box. Just cant find the brackets. What are they called and the specific size? So I know what to look for or ask for.
Never mind I just drilled through the box. Ran out of time trying to find them. Guess its better to be electrocuted then the whole house to burn down lol
good video. good explanations. thank you.
Not sure about your state but some states do NOT allow back to back outlets in wall. But I believe it is an International Building Code not NEC regarding fire resistant walls.
Thanks for the video.
That outlet you installed is a GFCI. You need to be careful because these can be strung together with regular outlets. It provides protection for downstream outlets. The hot and neutral terminals on the top and bottom are not the Same.
You wired the hot and neutral next to the ground wire. On the leviton boxes I bought, these are the downstream terminals. The outlet very well may work, but I imagine the GFCI is completely bypassed if your outlet is like mine. Does your GFCI test shut off the outlet?
Thank you for the great video. I have a question, is that plastic conduit next to the oulet running electrical wires? My house is 100+ years old and I want to run two new lines to the attic to update the wiring in the 2nd floor. I was thinking about using 1/2" metal conduit to bring the new lines up.
Super great video
I an installing a fan under a deck.
I added patio roofing under deck to catch rain, that dumps into a gutter.
I also added a cover over were the fan will be installed. They way when it rains, it will catch the water run it away from fan box.
Now, I have a power source. A exterior outlet in the wall that is 30ft away.
How do I get the power.
I need to keep the outlet and add a switch to fan.
How do I change box to exterior box .
Can I add this type of box right over the exisistng box hole?
What was the sealant you used? Duct seal? Like for HVAC?
great educational video well spoken
Thanks for the tips.
Thank you for your tutorial sir. Very well explained.
Video very nicely done, exactly what I wanted to see.
I'm trying to install an outside plug for Christmas lights. Should I connect to wires to the "line" side not the "load" right?
What happens if I do the opposite? Also, on the original plug inside my house, can I connect two wires (black inside and black going outside as well as white already connected on inside plug to white going outside) on each screw?
Did you end up putting a screw on the bottom right corner of the box? You don't show it in the video so I was just curious. I'm trying to avoid spending the extra $$ on a vinyl siding mounting block.
Well done, thanks!
Great commentary and direction. Thank you for your help.
thanks..the perfect instructional video for my little project
good, thorough/careful overview
Is there a video that shows the complete interior install?
That’s what I need. The outlet doesn’t work at this point. He left the job unfinished.
What is the argument between using the external J-box like you did versus recessing a box into the house? The latter is a more flush fit but probably also required some sealing tape and insulation around the box. Thoughts?
And also keep in mind that you pretty much can't do the recess version unless you're working with a completely flat surface. Otherwise, imagine how that would mount while trying to keep rain away. No bueno.
I noticed, at 10:03, that there was a bit of pultruding bare wire left on both, black and white wires after inserting them in the outlet. Isn’t that a hazardous thing?