Happy motoring, fly what ever you want that fits your budget. Low cost motors have improved quite a bit since I started flying just 5 years ago. My goto 5" motors are Xing's, 2207 1855kv motors for a reasonable $21. And they look good too. 😎
They have really come a long way!!! I am always happy to see more budget oriented options on the market so we get that good competition between vendors and drive the quality up for the cost :)
Back in the day when we where tuning our racing carts, we used special bearings on the crankshaft that had actually more tolerance than stock bearings. These 'looser' bearing where better in reducing friction and ran smoother on the very high revs but rattled a bit on the low revs. Totally agree with your conclusion in the motors... you might want to try the Xing Eco's
The Xing E's are darn good motors! I might have to pick up a few more sets of these though and see how consistently they wear. Also, totally true about crank bearings! That extra gap for oil makes a huge difference in smoothness up on the top end even if they are a little rumbly down low.
@@BaconNinjaFPV Have the XIng E's on several of my quads, never a problem with them. There's something to be said for production in higher volumes. Makes them cost effective at high quality. Not afraid to 'ding a few up' at that price ;-)
I have T-Motor F60s on all my 5 inch quads and Pacer 1604s on my Siren F3 split. I've bought cheaper "good" motors before and I've had issues. I've never had an issue with a T-motor motor. maybe Im just lucky but that's why I pay almost $30 per motor for my motors. They fly great every time and I have zero issues anymore. No Desyncs, no smoked motors, and plenty of power when I need it.
Tmotor does make a good motor! :) Having had a ton of motors from all kind of brands, I really do think there is always a luck of the draw in manufacturing no matter the price. I have had expensive ones get ruined within 5 packs, and cheap ones live for months through hundreds of packs. I remember getting a set of expensive ones to try once and the bell literally got off balance within the first 10 packs in a totally non-repairable way though...that was a good time, lol.
Yeah I got it right, I think it was possibly the kv difference. for me they would need to be twice as durable at nearly twice the price. great video dude
My first motors - Racerstar 2207 - worked great but the noisy bearings annoyed me. Both of my 5" builds use Xing-E - and I am very happy with them. Great video as always MBN. Stay greasy. 😎
Sounds like the Hypetrain motors I started out on, lol. The Xing E have always been super quiet for me as well, and I think the little damper ring at the top has a whole lot to do with that!
You are missed sir. I wish you would put more content out.. FPV needs you Bacon.. Everything is better with a little bacon in it.. Respect sir, Respect.
I've had a set of Emax eco 2 2306 motors that were cheaper than some of my whoop motors and have been one of the best performing motors I've used. They aren't as cheap as they were 3 years ago to buy now, but they're still a great budget option.
how is the motor selection down where you are? any difficulties getting some brands vs others? Im always super interested to know how all of this looks in different countries!!!
@@BaconNinjaFPV Well... Yeah, some brands are US only, but for the most part you can buy from China. You know? The more difficult part is for things like certain frames that are cut in the US. You know? 😊
sometimes it is fun to just try something new!!! I think there is a whole lot more change in feel between different KV and stator size than price though, so maybe keep the price reasonable but change up something about the specs if you are feeling like an experiment :)
1st off gre8 video....I love your content, 2nd whatever my opinion is I'll be wrong....because that's how the hobby is....lmao....IMO I say again IMO, I can feel a difference flying with my f-60's.....and they're tuff as nails.....I end up spending the same buying a budget motor because I'm constantly changing them out.......I say the performance is similar on the 1st 10 fights....then that Xtra money starts to pay off. I just like the reliability, ridgedness, and longevity of buying a premium motor.....thanks for the great video
I have 4 different sets of xings but having finnally learned how to solder im rebuilding alot and only one set is being used rn. Even still i just bought my first t motor 2208s at 1950kv for my 70ish gram 5" race frame. A "usmile xsu 220"? Off amazon. Blackbox was good though with the braces.
I shop all my power tools the same way, based off use. The cheap stuff will get it done around the house, but if you’re making a living with it and need it to last then go for the quality.
That's exactly what I was trying to say in my rambling comment hahahaha buy quality and get reliability, durability, and longevity......save yourself replacing over and over
There is a little bit of KV difference for sure! Unfortunately they don't make an exact match on that bit and the RCI motors have just a tad more punch from the difference.
I got it right, I thought the motors lacked punch compaired to first video. felt like I could see it a bit when I knew what was which as well.. But in the end I've flown few different brands, the eco II and NBD flows were some great bashers compair to my smoox. were the smoox worth the extra.. Meh I haven't bought more lol
yeah I figured if any difference it was mostly in the punch just a tad! That 100kv between them really does make some difference when it comes to that on such a light little build. But yeah, I have a fleet of nearly $30 motor quad builds sitting right next to a fleet of $15 ones....and I don't see myself really buying many more of the $30 ones outside of just needing them to test with. If a motor is going to break, then a motor is going to break. There aren't really any novel design differences between most motors from major brands, so its not like one is indestructible while the other breaks every time you look at it wrong, lol. Get outside of those brands though.....and sometimes you are better off with motors made of Play Doh :p
@@BaconNinjaFPV HAHA I couldn't agree more. was same with the xnova 2208's.. they are nice; but when I can bash the crap outta the cheaper motors I don't feel any need to have High $ motors
Great video, The main factor for me is that it finally has a single wrapped core now, i find multi wrapped core like the older versions seem to burn out easier, thats why i always used Brotherhobby Budget motors, but these t-motors definitely appear to be something worth buying
I also have seen emax eco's rattle right out the box, and they hold up just fine for and everyone likes those to, I'm just glad to see they upgraded the velox
That is a really good point!!! I wish the product pages reflected some of the things each specific motor was doing different than the others...its always so hard for people to really know what is going on for the money. I get that vendors don't really want to give away their designs, but sometimes you see two listings with very little info and it is sooooo hard to tell why one costs more than the other...or at least why they think it should, lol.
When you say single wrapped core, is that the difference between motors with thin stator wires and motors with thicker stator wires? I noticed that difference between the v2 and v3 velox. Thanks!
@@executioner7400 There was no difference. They worked the same and lasted the same amount of time. There is no reason to buy expensive motors in my opinion.
Speaking of the Grinderino, i have found that the Skystars koko 1505 with a 40a AIO, i used a ghf411aio, are perfect for a 3.5" as a budget build! i temporarily built it on a cheap JM3.5 frame because they was taking to long to release, i will upgrade as soon as i can get a grinderino, but holy shit is that thing fast! My plan was to use it at parks but it's dang near as fast as a 5"
a 3.5" can really get up and get it when it comes to speed man!!! I see the next couple of years really opening up for options in that size to keep the weight down and the speed up. I realllllllly wanna build a Grinderino though, so much, lol.
T-Motor did an incredible job on the V3! Great job T-Motor!!! The only substantial difference between the two motors here is the KV and appearance, not to put my RCIP down. They are both 7075, they have to be, can’t really use anything else in this application. O-rings feel inconsistent to me, I always remove them if they come with them, I like my motors shimmed a specific way. Also T-Motor will have a price advantage because of order size, even if identical. As you already know, thrust tests and motor testing anything other than ramp up, with a battery is just number jacking. Doesn’t really help anyone in the real world. (It is fun though 😜) Props make a bigger difference than motors most times. On an over 300 gram quad you won’t be able to see a difference between those two KVs, it’s important only on light quads, or smaller props. (I’m doing 4.6” testing currently. ABSOLUTELY LOVING IT!!!) That’s why most freestyle in the KV1800 range (true KV) most KV numbers are inaccurate 😜, but that’s because of the people, it’s their fault! They’ll be like, can I replace my KV1720 with a 1800, YES, yes you can, just send it, you won’t notice a difference!!! 🤣 THUS THE KV BINNING!!! True KV is usually within 100-150 of labelling on a 2207 size. Noisy bearings make no difference, some of the cages are just noisy on some bearing designs, has absolutely nothing to do with tolerance or quality… IF it’s an interface issue, you will see it in blackbox. BTW my favourite NSK Japanese bearings are BY FAR the noisiest (and most expensive) bearings. But they feel the best to me, NMB is my number 2, especially for a basher, I flush out the grease every flight day regardless, that’s what really matters (from testing). And yes I know people are too lazy for 5 minutes of maintenance 😜 Lots of 🥓 love
They really did do a great job on these! I thought about getting a thrust stand for a while....but for the cost of them I just couldn't see myself really impacting my purchasing decisions that much when it comes to getting numbers out of them, lol. Also, absolutely bearing noise does come from a lot of different places! I have had some noisy motors where you could tell it was hands down a tolerance issue, and others where it was just the chase design. I too enjoy a good NSK Japanese bearing when I am spec'ing one for something I am building!
Hi! I think rcinpower bison motors are one of the most remarkable. They are worth paying attention to. I use these on my drone. They are very economical. The Mo1 5 inch drone flies on these motors for 15 minutes with a 6s 1300mah battery
Chris Rosser has done motor testing on his channel, and declared KV isn't always accurate, in fact it seems quite often the kv value is over advertised (surprising - no). RCinpower was best in test and seemed to accurately state their kv values. I am not saying they are worth the price, I don't consider buying them myself. Just saying that the stated kv values aren't always comparable. Some are true, many aren't.
That is absolutely true!! There are lots of cases where the labeled KV is quite a bit off from the actual tested one. Sometimes even two motors made one right after the other one the same manufacturing line will be off between each other in KV more than just the standard degree of error. RCI seems to be pretty accurate though for sure!
I go with xing 2 telling myself iflight will make them for a while so i dont have to change a hole set of motor if i broke one, compare to my Mr Steele V4 motor that are or will be discontinued soon because he has a ''new model''.
the whole discontinuing the older model just because a newer model is out really gets to me, lol. One reason I have never picked up a set of those to try...well that and a motor is a motor is a motor most of the time.
That is absolutely on my list. I really want to show the changes in amp draw, flight time, and what doing a motor output limit to make them similarly RPM limited does for those things!
@@BaconNinjaFPV thank you so much I just got into fpv about 3 or 4 months ago and I've built to drums and it's my favorite thing so far I just wish I had more money it's so expensive I can only afford analog and barely...lol but it's so fun
Very small difference's but will the vellox v3 last as long as the rcin power i run rcinpower motors and they last a long time and i also have the vellox voloce v2 and there good motors but they dont last very long if you fly alot so in fact you dont save money in the long run because you need to buy two sets for the budget motors
That is very true!!! I plan on running these for a good long while to see how they hold up :) Most pilots are going to break either motor in a crash way before the material life span runs out on them, but there are always some that can make a motor last years without breaking in a crash and for them the more expensive one might just make more sense!
Not being a drone pilot I found vid no. 1 snappier and looking like more power (more kv?). Regarding bearings. I once made a DIY project modifying a trackball (CST) to ball bearings and all bearings felt like sandpaper except EZO. Therefore I am going to buy the product with EZO bearings unstead of anything else.
yeah that is where I was at with it. that little bit of KV difference made it just a tad more punchy in spots, and unfortunately the Velox V3 just doesn't have an exact equal equivalent for that. I think RCInpower always just takes their KV numbers up about 100 off of the numbers we usually see to give their motors that little bit of extra punch and make them feel a hair different. Not a bad marketing strategy!
I agree and I’ll probably actually be buying the Velox but there kinda go with common stated things is the difference in price is the bell unibell will be more durable then a 2 piece in theory who knows but the manufacturing of one bell over the other is the difference in price
I did spot the right motors pretty quickly, the first one was visibly closer to sbang in style, pilots who want the same snappy effect from budget motors would often choose higher kv motors.
Old vid, but I’m an old school fpv guy, Fly whatever is in your budget. I got on the podium many times running the 2207.5 pyro hyperlite e-series motors and xilo 2207’s. Sure there are some small differences with more expensive motors but skill will take you much further than “premium” parts will. Plus if your like I was when I was heavy into fpv the cheaper parts make you push harder bc your not 100% worried about killing your quad. That said I do have some all premium race quads and freestyle quads but the tune can help cheap parts feel better. Hell I still have some all flightone setups that I haven’t destroyed yet, I’ve tried to kill my arc ones and somehow they won’t die, must be some unicorn parts I wound up with before he who shall not be named decided to screw everyone without Vaseline 😅 #sendit
I still fly my racestar2207 2500kv occasionally. And that thing still rips. I have velox v3, rcin gtsv2 and i really dont see much of difference. And am not pro so i guess minor details might go unnoticed
Bacon I called it wrong, dangit I was so sure to lol now I buy premium only and maybe you can’t tell too much but I want the premium materials and silky smooth performance….. sorry I don’t do budget…..
At the 2:00 mark, I can’t tell the difference, to be honest, after watching it three times, I feel like the second motor has more pop. I’ll reply to this after the video is done.
They really were a super close feel! The first one felt like it had just a hair more thrust, but that really came down to the KV difference between them.
I wonder if anyone has tried ceramic ball bearings in their motors. I was curious so I started looking around and I can buy either full ceramic or hybrid ceramic 4x9x4 684 ZZ bearings which is the size for the Velox V2 motors. Ceramic is supposed to be harder, have less friction, less heat and capable of higher speeds than steel ball bearings. $2.90 each bearing, so a $13 motor would be $16 and possibly have the best bearings possible and still be far less expensive than hyped up pro motors.
The wasp major was always super interesting! One of the places where I will for sure spend a little more to try something is in stator size combinations.
@@BaconNinjaFPV I have an extra set laying around if you want to try them without spending the money. They are used but still amazingly awesome, change because of a color scheme change.
Interestingly the Velox 2207 v3 is not 22 x 7 mm in size. Gal Kremer has measured them and they are 22,5 x 7,5 in size. So larger stator volume. I have purchased an exact same one (1950 kv) to "feel it", having it in the hand and rotating the bell. It is much less cogging torque than the F60 PRO V, which is not 2207 either. That one is 22 x 7,8 mm approximately, I have measured them. The F60 PRO has nearly same cogging as the XNOVA 2207 Hard Line, but the XNOVA 2207 Lite Racing has even harder cogging. If you want ultimate cogging I recommend the FPV Cycle 1606 motor, that one has insane cogging torque.... :-)
you should try running in the bearings. when you mount new motors and fire it at max rpm 30k+? without running in there is not distributed lubricant properly and you propably destroy bearing tracks because there are microscopic fabrication marks from factory. maybe only difference is that more expensive motors are runned in at factory :)
I personally noticed a difference in the performance, your moves looked crispier, probably has do with how quickly that GTSv4 motor brakes, did anyone else notice this?
I think most of that difference was the tad higher KV on the GTSv4. Since there really isn't an exact KV across the board between them, the RCI ones had just a hair more punch for sure. As far as flight feel though, it really was a wash.
That is very true, there are some small differences in those two aspects of a motor! Realy though, all motors are going to break in realistically all the same circumstances outside of just usual wear and tear. Now if you are one of those pilots who never flys in a spot or a way that would break motors in a crash, a more expensive one that lasts a bit longer on wear totally makes sense!! If you are likely to destroy them in crashes before their life span is over anyway though, the savings add up during replacements. On efficiency, a prop change has a ton more impact than motor design does, but you are absolutely correct that if you are doing something where you need at extra 3% a motor can do for efficiency above the bigger change a prop has then the price may be worth it!
@@BaconNinjaFPV yeah, we don't have a lot of bandos here, so is mostly park flying, I have been running 2207 xings, the classic ones, never wrecked one, but ended up changing because after 2 years they were totally unbalanced. Swapped for the cheaper xing-e, and my flight time was reduced, I checked on the bench and the cheaper ones consume about 15% more amps (maybe because newer magnets, don't know). I can't feel the difference, but I know they will last less than the others. BTW, I've been flying for about 7 years, and never bought top of the line expensive motors, so I really don't have the experience of flying a $30 one.
So long as the cheaper motor doesnt crap out over a lake or over a building, I will buy cheap motors all day and replace them as needed. Im quick to replace them if i have any thoughts they might fail mid flight.
I agree! If you are putting the quad in spots that would be a nightmare for crashing then maybe the extra cost is a little peace of mind if nothing else. In reality most of the time you are just as likely to have an issue with either as long as you are using well known brands, but still it at least "feels" like more reliability...lol. Cheaper motors are at least cheaper to replace when you inevitably mangle them in a crash, and no matter how expensive the motor is that can always happen!
@@BaconNinjaFPV assuming the extra $ prevents mid flight failure. The point I was driving at, I will swap a motor if I have any thoughts it might be less than 100% making the cheaper motor easier to stomach. I have ECO2 motors all over the place with zero fails
I would still recommend a motor output limit there for sure, lol. If you have a super great ESC then mayyyyyybe, but there is a high risk of letting the smoke out of whatever ESC you drive that high of a KV with on 6S voltage.
Difference in price between 7075 and 6063 aluminium is not that hig. Maximum 30 cents per motor. But 7075 is much easier to mill. So I think even cheaper motor have same material quality.
That is a good point! the increased ductility of 6063 does make it a bit gummy when you go to mill it. Really the shaft is the only place where you could change it up I suppose. Titanium vs. stainless vs. standard steel...and even then at the size of the parts I bet the cost isn't "that" much different. Well not as different as the prices, lol.
I've tried 25$+ motors... not worth it. Maybe more durable. But not enough to justify double the price. I can buy 5 eco's and still save money and keep a backup on hand
most of the time the motors are going to get mangled in a crash no matter what they cost, lol...and being able to live out their life span without a crash getting them has such a low chance of happening.
the idea is to isolate it down to one variable so that you can identify the specifics of just that one thing :) If I tuned each one to get the absolute most out of each motor, then I really wouldn't be looking at either of them in their native state....it would make for a tad better performance in each direction for sure, but wouldn't really be all that transparent since I could hide quite a bit of deficiency that most pilots won't take the time to work out when buying either of these things. It is a good point though!!!
@@HoRNET_FPV I really did want to smash them into concrete!!! I've been trying to think through a repeatable way to do that consistently so I can do exactly that, but so far the slingshot method isn't panning out :p maybe some day I can get that one worked out and test crash damage!
@@BaconNinjaFPV The PID loop controls everything until it hits a wall, both motors will perform the exact same while the PID values stays within what is possible for both. ( acceleration / braking ) When by example "P" gets too high for one of them, the other will "reach setpoint" faster.
yeah bando bashing is one of those things where maybe you spend more to have it hold up better? but at the same time, if you do its probably going to break anyway so then you are just replacing more expensive parts...it all breaks in the end, lol. I will say though, for bandos a tough frame is a must!
Bogus test. Best test is to put 2 motors on the left side of the quad and 2 of the other motors on the right side and see which side of the quad flies better. 😮🤣
Just my😅 two cents. I want a motor that I can't bend the damn bell or prop shaft. I don't know how many times I've replaced a motor only to out burn 5 packs, crash and f the same motor up. I go with the cheapest motors now.
for sure! They are all going to break if you get unlucky in a crash, so unless you plan on never crashing (which some people certainly do plan on) then making a bigger investment in something with a longer life span doesn't always make sense.
I thought my motors may have gotten fucked up and I decided on the Tmotor due to the price and testing stats according to Chris' testing. It ended up not being the motors but my ESC. But if it ever need motors it will be the Tmotor.
Hi Iv got RCInPower GTS V4 2207 2100KV MCK Edition Motors Has 3 blk wires Which wire is red,black and other wire color ?? Thanks 👍 Glen Victoria Australia 👍
I was on the Xing 2207 1855kv. But I just built an analog 5" with the Velox. The velox are way faster than the xing. They pair amazingly with the prop profile of the Ethics PB & J props. It punches off the ground like a rocket
@@sigterm15 y ive now switched to Rosser's AOS supernovas and they are the best motors I have ever used., You want numbers for those? Go to chris rossers page. He has all the numbers you need. the main thing I have noticed is the throttle response between 0 and 50% throttle . They spin up smoother and you can beat the balls off them and they dont get hot.
Budget motors in the KV you want, you would not feel a difference
except for how depressed you wouldnt be getting when you check your bank account, lol.
@@BaconNinjaFPV haha yeah
Happy motoring, fly what ever you want that fits your budget. Low cost motors have improved quite a bit since I started flying just 5 years ago. My goto 5" motors are Xing's, 2207 1855kv motors for a reasonable $21. And they look good too. 😎
They have really come a long way!!! I am always happy to see more budget oriented options on the market so we get that good competition between vendors and drive the quality up for the cost :)
Back in the day when we where tuning our racing carts, we used special bearings on the crankshaft that had actually more tolerance than stock bearings. These 'looser' bearing where better in reducing friction and ran smoother on the very high revs but rattled a bit on the low revs. Totally agree with your conclusion in the motors... you might want to try the Xing Eco's
The Xing E's are darn good motors! I might have to pick up a few more sets of these though and see how consistently they wear. Also, totally true about crank bearings! That extra gap for oil makes a huge difference in smoothness up on the top end even if they are a little rumbly down low.
@@BaconNinjaFPV Have the XIng E's on several of my quads, never a problem with them. There's something to be said for production in higher volumes. Makes them cost effective at high quality. Not afraid to 'ding a few up' at that price ;-)
I have T-Motor F60s on all my 5 inch quads and Pacer 1604s on my Siren F3 split. I've bought cheaper "good" motors before and I've had issues. I've never had an issue with a T-motor motor. maybe Im just lucky but that's why I pay almost $30 per motor for my motors. They fly great every time and I have zero issues anymore. No Desyncs, no smoked motors, and plenty of power when I need it.
Tmotor does make a good motor! :) Having had a ton of motors from all kind of brands, I really do think there is always a luck of the draw in manufacturing no matter the price. I have had expensive ones get ruined within 5 packs, and cheap ones live for months through hundreds of packs. I remember getting a set of expensive ones to try once and the bell literally got off balance within the first 10 packs in a totally non-repairable way though...that was a good time, lol.
Yeah I got it right, I think it was possibly the kv difference. for me they would need to be twice as durable at nearly twice the price. great video dude
I totally agree! also yeah that little difference in KV made juuuust enough difference in the punch to be visible, lol.
My first motors - Racerstar 2207 - worked great but the noisy bearings annoyed me.
Both of my 5" builds use Xing-E - and I am very happy with them.
Great video as always MBN. Stay greasy. 😎
Sounds like the Hypetrain motors I started out on, lol. The Xing E have always been super quiet for me as well, and I think the little damper ring at the top has a whole lot to do with that!
You are missed sir. I wish you would put more content out.. FPV needs you Bacon.. Everything is better with a little bacon in it.. Respect sir, Respect.
I've had a set of Emax eco 2 2306 motors that were cheaper than some of my whoop motors and have been one of the best performing motors I've used. They aren't as cheap as they were 3 years ago to buy now, but they're still a great budget option.
I am constantly impressed with the Eco II's! I have them in a few sizes now and they have always been way more solid than their price point.
All my E-Max motors are great TBH, red bottoms, LS2207, ECO's
Bro , interesting topic! your flying skills are insane btw.!
Thank you!!! I really appreciate you checking it out :)
Won't catch me dead buying a motor for more than $20! Those velox v3s look really good, I'll be buying those the next time I pick up motors.
Awesome flying and review, dude! 😃
Yeah, I've seen absolutely no difference! 😂
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
how is the motor selection down where you are? any difficulties getting some brands vs others? Im always super interested to know how all of this looks in different countries!!!
@@BaconNinjaFPV Well... Yeah, some brands are US only, but for the most part you can buy from China. You know? The more difficult part is for things like certain frames that are cut in the US. You know? 😊
awesome video, im running the v2 velox at the moment was able to buy 10 for the price of of 5 Xing motors.
That is a pretty sweet deal!!!
thanks man, i was actually wondering if i ever want to upgrade from cheap xing to expensive ones lol
sometimes it is fun to just try something new!!! I think there is a whole lot more change in feel between different KV and stator size than price though, so maybe keep the price reasonable but change up something about the specs if you are feeling like an experiment :)
1st off gre8 video....I love your content, 2nd whatever my opinion is I'll be wrong....because that's how the hobby is....lmao....IMO I say again IMO, I can feel a difference flying with my f-60's.....and they're tuff as nails.....I end up spending the same buying a budget motor because I'm constantly changing them out.......I say the performance is similar on the 1st 10 fights....then that Xtra money starts to pay off. I just like the reliability, ridgedness, and longevity of buying a premium motor.....thanks for the great video
I have 4 different sets of xings but having finnally learned how to solder im rebuilding alot and only one set is being used rn. Even still i just bought my first t motor 2208s at 1950kv for my 70ish gram 5" race frame. A "usmile xsu 220"? Off amazon. Blackbox was good though with the braces.
thats a whooooooooole lotta powah on a 5" racing quad! lol...but I like it that way
I shop all my power tools the same way, based off use. The cheap stuff will get it done around the house, but if you’re making a living with it and need it to last then go for the quality.
I was actually thinking about that exact thing! I originally thought I would go with "do you buy your tools at harbor freight?" Lol.
Same... Harbor Freight for the cheap tools if you're just doing stuff around the house😂
That's exactly what I was trying to say in my rambling comment hahahaha buy quality and get reliability, durability, and longevity......save yourself replacing over and over
Exactly
For me who is old and learning cheap doesn’t hurt to break
All your 2023 motor predictions are coming true! with that being said I got me a set of the new v3 velox too!
lol, well I guess that prediction didn't take too much forethought anyway.
Good test. Thanks 👍
Thank you buddy! :)
I can definitely tell that the Velox are not as powerful! You can see it and hear it! Thanks Bacon!
There is a little bit of KV difference for sure! Unfortunately they don't make an exact match on that bit and the RCI motors have just a tad more punch from the difference.
Great Video, love you bro!
Thank you!!! Much love buddy :)
good video friend! I wanted to ask you if 2306 1750kv or 2306 1950kv is worth it for a smoother flight. what difference is there?
I love your content. What motors would you suggest (KV?) for a custom cinewhoop 3.5 inch where I want a lot of flight time. Thanks.
I got it right, I thought the motors lacked punch compaired to first video. felt like I could see it a bit when I knew what was which as well.. But in the end I've flown few different brands, the eco II and NBD flows were some great bashers compair to my smoox. were the smoox worth the extra.. Meh I haven't bought more lol
yeah I figured if any difference it was mostly in the punch just a tad! That 100kv between them really does make some difference when it comes to that on such a light little build. But yeah, I have a fleet of nearly $30 motor quad builds sitting right next to a fleet of $15 ones....and I don't see myself really buying many more of the $30 ones outside of just needing them to test with. If a motor is going to break, then a motor is going to break. There aren't really any novel design differences between most motors from major brands, so its not like one is indestructible while the other breaks every time you look at it wrong, lol. Get outside of those brands though.....and sometimes you are better off with motors made of Play Doh :p
@@BaconNinjaFPV HAHA I couldn't agree more. was same with the xnova 2208's.. they are nice; but when I can bash the crap outta the cheaper motors I don't feel any need to have High $ motors
Great video, The main factor for me is that it finally has a single wrapped core now, i find multi wrapped core like the older versions seem to burn out easier, thats why i always used Brotherhobby Budget motors, but these t-motors definitely appear to be something worth buying
I also have seen emax eco's rattle right out the box, and they hold up just fine for and everyone likes those to, I'm just glad to see they upgraded the velox
That is a really good point!!! I wish the product pages reflected some of the things each specific motor was doing different than the others...its always so hard for people to really know what is going on for the money. I get that vendors don't really want to give away their designs, but sometimes you see two listings with very little info and it is sooooo hard to tell why one costs more than the other...or at least why they think it should, lol.
When you say single wrapped core, is that the difference between motors with thin stator wires and motors with thicker stator wires? I noticed that difference between the v2 and v3 velox. Thanks!
I bought a set of Blackbird motors to compare them to my Velox v2 motors. Those Blackbirds were the last set of expensive motors I'll ever buy.
sometimes the hype is just the hype :o
Not good enough,right?
@@executioner7400 There was no difference. They worked the same and lasted the same amount of time. There is no reason to buy expensive motors in my opinion.
Speaking of the Grinderino, i have found that the Skystars koko 1505 with a 40a AIO, i used a ghf411aio, are perfect for a 3.5" as a budget build! i temporarily built it on a cheap JM3.5 frame because they was taking to long to release, i will upgrade as soon as i can get a grinderino, but holy shit is that thing fast! My plan was to use it at parks but it's dang near as fast as a 5"
a 3.5" can really get up and get it when it comes to speed man!!! I see the next couple of years really opening up for options in that size to keep the weight down and the speed up. I realllllllly wanna build a Grinderino though, so much, lol.
T-Motor did an incredible job on the V3! Great job T-Motor!!!
The only substantial difference between the two motors here is the KV and appearance, not to put my RCIP down. They are both 7075, they have to be, can’t really use anything else in this application. O-rings feel inconsistent to me, I always remove them if they come with them, I like my motors shimmed a specific way. Also T-Motor will have a price advantage because of order size, even if identical.
As you already know, thrust tests and motor testing anything other than ramp up, with a battery is just number jacking. Doesn’t really help anyone in the real world. (It is fun though 😜)
Props make a bigger difference than motors most times. On an over 300 gram quad you won’t be able to see a difference between those two KVs, it’s important only on light quads, or smaller props. (I’m doing 4.6” testing currently. ABSOLUTELY LOVING IT!!!) That’s why most freestyle in the KV1800 range (true KV) most KV numbers are inaccurate 😜, but that’s because of the people, it’s their fault! They’ll be like, can I replace my KV1720 with a 1800, YES, yes you can, just send it, you won’t notice a difference!!! 🤣 THUS THE KV BINNING!!! True KV is usually within 100-150 of labelling on a 2207 size.
Noisy bearings make no difference, some of the cages are just noisy on some bearing designs, has absolutely nothing to do with tolerance or quality… IF it’s an interface issue, you will see it in blackbox.
BTW my favourite NSK Japanese bearings are BY FAR the noisiest (and most expensive) bearings. But they feel the best to me, NMB is my number 2, especially for a basher, I flush out the grease every flight day regardless, that’s what really matters (from testing). And yes I know people are too lazy for 5 minutes of maintenance 😜
Lots of 🥓 love
They really did do a great job on these! I thought about getting a thrust stand for a while....but for the cost of them I just couldn't see myself really impacting my purchasing decisions that much when it comes to getting numbers out of them, lol. Also, absolutely bearing noise does come from a lot of different places! I have had some noisy motors where you could tell it was hands down a tolerance issue, and others where it was just the chase design. I too enjoy a good NSK Japanese bearing when I am spec'ing one for something I am building!
Where do you think the ECOii fits into the mix?
hmmmmm, I would say it is somewhere south of these Vellox motors. Not too far south, but just a tad.
Hi! I think rcinpower bison motors are one of the most remarkable. They are worth paying attention to. I use these on my drone. They are very economical. The Mo1 5 inch drone flies on these motors for 15 minutes with a 6s 1300mah battery
Chris Rosser has done motor testing on his channel, and declared KV isn't always accurate, in fact it seems quite often the kv value is over advertised (surprising - no). RCinpower was best in test and seemed to accurately state their kv values. I am not saying they are worth the price, I don't consider buying them myself. Just saying that the stated kv values aren't always comparable. Some are true, many aren't.
That is absolutely true!! There are lots of cases where the labeled KV is quite a bit off from the actual tested one. Sometimes even two motors made one right after the other one the same manufacturing line will be off between each other in KV more than just the standard degree of error. RCI seems to be pretty accurate though for sure!
I go with xing 2 telling myself iflight will make them for a while so i dont have to change a hole set of motor if i broke one, compare to my Mr Steele V4 motor that are or will be discontinued soon because he has a ''new model''.
the whole discontinuing the older model just because a newer model is out really gets to me, lol. One reason I have never picked up a set of those to try...well that and a motor is a motor is a motor most of the time.
Can you show the difference between the 2207 1750kv and the 2050kv...of the same brand 🤔 just wondering what the difference is in kv
That is absolutely on my list. I really want to show the changes in amp draw, flight time, and what doing a motor output limit to make them similarly RPM limited does for those things!
@@BaconNinjaFPV thank you so much I just got into fpv about 3 or 4 months ago and I've built to drums and it's my favorite thing so far I just wish I had more money it's so expensive I can only afford analog and barely...lol but it's so fun
I actually got the blind test wrong. Been running the velox V2’s for ages. No probs.
Personally I passed on the v2 in favor of the Xing E-pro, but the v3 really has me wanting a few more of them in the fleet!
I decided to just use Xing-E Pro 1800kv cheapos on all my quads when starting out. So far haven't regretted that.
Those are a solid choice!
I do the same. Those motors are so cheap in comparison and just perform great.
Very small difference's but will the vellox v3 last as long as the rcin power i run rcinpower motors and they last a long time and i also have the vellox voloce v2 and there good motors but they dont last very long if you fly alot so in fact you dont save money in the long run because you need to buy two sets for the budget motors
That is very true!!! I plan on running these for a good long while to see how they hold up :) Most pilots are going to break either motor in a crash way before the material life span runs out on them, but there are always some that can make a motor last years without breaking in a crash and for them the more expensive one might just make more sense!
I was excited when I saw these. Not exited for pink. Still on 4s
I know I am weird and like the brighter colors, lol.
Do they not have a way to lubricate the bearings?
Not being a drone pilot I found vid no. 1 snappier and looking like more power (more kv?).
Regarding bearings. I once made a DIY project modifying a trackball (CST) to ball bearings and all bearings felt like sandpaper except EZO. Therefore I am going to buy the product with EZO bearings unstead of anything else.
Right. First looked like higher KV.
yeah that little bit of KV difference gave them just a taaad more punch in some spots.
i think i noticed the higher kv, but if they had identical kv im not sure i would have noticed anything
yeah that is where I was at with it. that little bit of KV difference made it just a tad more punchy in spots, and unfortunately the Velox V3 just doesn't have an exact equal equivalent for that. I think RCInpower always just takes their KV numbers up about 100 off of the numbers we usually see to give their motors that little bit of extra punch and make them feel a hair different. Not a bad marketing strategy!
I agree and I’ll probably actually be buying the Velox but there kinda go with common stated things is the difference in price is the bell unibell will be more durable then a 2 piece in theory who knows but the manufacturing of one bell over the other is the difference in price
I’m still gonna send it and still probably gonna wreck it haha 😅 new to the sport so imma go through a few
I did spot the right motors pretty quickly, the first one was visibly closer to sbang in style, pilots who want the same snappy effect from budget motors would often choose higher kv motors.
Sweet video
Old vid, but I’m an old school fpv guy, Fly whatever is in your budget. I got on the podium many times running the 2207.5 pyro hyperlite e-series motors and xilo 2207’s. Sure there are some small differences with more expensive motors but skill will take you much further than “premium” parts will. Plus if your like I was when I was heavy into fpv the cheaper parts make you push harder bc your not 100% worried about killing your quad. That said I do have some all premium race quads and freestyle quads but the tune can help cheap parts feel better. Hell I still have some all flightone setups that I haven’t destroyed yet, I’ve tried to kill my arc ones and somehow they won’t die, must be some unicorn parts I wound up with before he who shall not be named decided to screw everyone without Vaseline 😅 #sendit
I still fly my racestar2207 2500kv occasionally. And that thing still rips. I have velox v3, rcin gtsv2 and i really dont see much of difference. And am not pro so i guess minor details might go unnoticed
Bacon I called it wrong, dangit I was so sure to lol now I buy premium only and maybe you can’t tell too much but I want the premium materials and silky smooth performance….. sorry I don’t do budget…..
In video the pink ones are smoother with response.. the t motors have a quicker..jerkyer responce..
At the 2:00 mark, I can’t tell the difference, to be honest, after watching it three times, I feel like the second motor has more pop. I’ll reply to this after the video is done.
They really were a super close feel! The first one felt like it had just a hair more thrust, but that really came down to the KV difference between them.
@@BaconNinjaFPV yeah that’s shocking because I assumed off Rip; it being a more powerful motor, it was the expensive one
I wonder if anyone has tried ceramic ball bearings in their motors. I was curious so I started looking around and I can buy either full ceramic or hybrid ceramic 4x9x4 684 ZZ bearings which is the size for the Velox V2 motors. Ceramic is supposed to be harder, have less friction, less heat and capable of higher speeds than steel ball bearings. $2.90 each bearing, so a $13 motor would be $16 and possibly have the best bearings possible and still be far less expensive than hyped up pro motors.
Those are the best budget motors on the market. Even though they are only 15 dollars. My buddy bashes the shit out of those.
They punch above their weight class for sure!
Look into the 2107 1980kv RCinpower. Nasty nasty motors compared the the 22.6x6.5 wasp major.
The wasp major was always super interesting! One of the places where I will for sure spend a little more to try something is in stator size combinations.
@@BaconNinjaFPV I have an extra set laying around if you want to try them without spending the money. They are used but still amazingly awesome, change because of a color scheme change.
Cool 😎
Interestingly the Velox 2207 v3 is not 22 x 7 mm in size. Gal Kremer has measured them and they are 22,5 x 7,5 in size. So larger stator volume. I have purchased an exact same one (1950 kv) to "feel it", having it in the hand and rotating the bell. It is much less cogging torque than the F60 PRO V, which is not 2207 either. That one is 22 x 7,8 mm approximately, I have measured them. The F60 PRO has nearly same cogging as the XNOVA 2207 Hard Line, but the XNOVA 2207 Lite Racing has even harder cogging.
If you want ultimate cogging I recommend the FPV Cycle 1606 motor, that one has insane cogging torque.... :-)
you should try running in the bearings. when you mount new motors and fire it at max rpm 30k+? without running in there is not distributed lubricant properly and you propably destroy bearing tracks because there are microscopic fabrication marks from factory. maybe only difference is that more expensive motors are runned in at factory :)
I personally noticed a difference in the performance, your moves looked crispier, probably has do with how quickly that GTSv4 motor brakes, did anyone else notice this?
I think most of that difference was the tad higher KV on the GTSv4. Since there really isn't an exact KV across the board between them, the RCI ones had just a hair more punch for sure. As far as flight feel though, it really was a wash.
Definitely a difference in the sound
For sure there is!
Yeah, the difference between cheap and expensive motors is not in feel, but in efficiency, and durability.
That is very true, there are some small differences in those two aspects of a motor! Realy though, all motors are going to break in realistically all the same circumstances outside of just usual wear and tear. Now if you are one of those pilots who never flys in a spot or a way that would break motors in a crash, a more expensive one that lasts a bit longer on wear totally makes sense!! If you are likely to destroy them in crashes before their life span is over anyway though, the savings add up during replacements. On efficiency, a prop change has a ton more impact than motor design does, but you are absolutely correct that if you are doing something where you need at extra 3% a motor can do for efficiency above the bigger change a prop has then the price may be worth it!
@@BaconNinjaFPV yeah, we don't have a lot of bandos here, so is mostly park flying, I have been running 2207 xings, the classic ones, never wrecked one, but ended up changing because after 2 years they were totally unbalanced. Swapped for the cheaper xing-e, and my flight time was reduced, I checked on the bench and the cheaper ones consume about 15% more amps (maybe because newer magnets, don't know). I can't feel the difference, but I know they will last less than the others. BTW, I've been flying for about 7 years, and never bought top of the line expensive motors, so I really don't have the experience of flying a $30 one.
Well for a beginner like my self t-motors is a great choice, especially when you know you are going crash anyways 😜
Lol, it hurts a whole lot less when they get mangled up...and no matter how expensive they are they eventually get demolished!
So long as the cheaper motor doesnt crap out over a lake or over a building, I will buy cheap motors all day and replace them as needed. Im quick to replace them if i have any thoughts they might fail mid flight.
I agree! If you are putting the quad in spots that would be a nightmare for crashing then maybe the extra cost is a little peace of mind if nothing else. In reality most of the time you are just as likely to have an issue with either as long as you are using well known brands, but still it at least "feels" like more reliability...lol. Cheaper motors are at least cheaper to replace when you inevitably mangle them in a crash, and no matter how expensive the motor is that can always happen!
@@BaconNinjaFPV assuming the extra $ prevents mid flight failure. The point I was driving at, I will swap a motor if I have any thoughts it might be less than 100% making the cheaper motor easier to stomach. I have ECO2 motors all over the place with zero fails
@@Mupshot replacements definitely hurt less when they are half as expensive!
So my 6s 2600kv build is good to go then 👍😁
I would still recommend a motor output limit there for sure, lol. If you have a super great ESC then mayyyyyybe, but there is a high risk of letting the smoke out of whatever ESC you drive that high of a KV with on 6S voltage.
love real world testing
me too! charts and graphs are cool, but sometimes you just have to send it and see what it does.
facts brother@@BaconNinjaFPV
Difference in price between 7075 and 6063 aluminium is not that hig. Maximum 30 cents per motor. But 7075 is much easier to mill. So I think even cheaper motor have same material quality.
That is a good point! the increased ductility of 6063 does make it a bit gummy when you go to mill it. Really the shaft is the only place where you could change it up I suppose. Titanium vs. stainless vs. standard steel...and even then at the size of the parts I bet the cost isn't "that" much different. Well not as different as the prices, lol.
I've tried 25$+ motors... not worth it. Maybe more durable. But not enough to justify double the price. I can buy 5 eco's and still save money and keep a backup on hand
most of the time the motors are going to get mangled in a crash no matter what they cost, lol...and being able to live out their life span without a crash getting them has such a low chance of happening.
I bought a set of 2205 motors for $18 ;-)
Vellox Veloce is one piece bell and titanium shaft for just 2 dollars more than v3
yeah i guessed right. number two just looked way looser, not as crisp and tight
I got it right.
Got it right, gtsv4 have more top end power, and i Can see that.
yeah that little bit of KV difference made them a tad more punchy in some spots for sure.
the first one is the cheaper one!
So close man! :)
tbh, no point in testing without tuning for each motor...
the idea is to isolate it down to one variable so that you can identify the specifics of just that one thing :) If I tuned each one to get the absolute most out of each motor, then I really wouldn't be looking at either of them in their native state....it would make for a tad better performance in each direction for sure, but wouldn't really be all that transparent since I could hide quite a bit of deficiency that most pilots won't take the time to work out when buying either of these things. It is a good point though!!!
sorry, I just feel if ever there is differences, they will show after tuning to their limit or smashed into concrete, much love
@@HoRNET_FPV I really did want to smash them into concrete!!! I've been trying to think through a repeatable way to do that consistently so I can do exactly that, but so far the slingshot method isn't panning out :p maybe some day I can get that one worked out and test crash damage!
@@BaconNinjaFPV The PID loop controls everything until it hits a wall, both motors will perform the exact same while the PID values stays within what is possible for both. ( acceleration / braking ) When by example "P" gets too high for one of them, the other will "reach setpoint" faster.
Yeah i'm not puting rcinpower on my bando bashers but you got have a tricked out quad.
yeah bando bashing is one of those things where maybe you spend more to have it hold up better? but at the same time, if you do its probably going to break anyway so then you are just replacing more expensive parts...it all breaks in the end, lol. I will say though, for bandos a tough frame is a must!
Answering the survey: I believe the first is the cheapest...
Bogus test. Best test is to put 2 motors on the left side of the quad and 2 of the other motors on the right side and see which side of the quad flies better. 😮🤣
Man, I am constantly amazed at the way your brain works :p
Just my😅 two cents. I want a motor that I can't bend the damn bell or prop shaft. I don't know how many times I've replaced a motor only to out burn 5 packs, crash and f the same motor up. I go with the cheapest motors now.
Are you flying 3D??
They all break the same in a crash, so there's no point in buying expensive motors or frames.
for sure! They are all going to break if you get unlucky in a crash, so unless you plan on never crashing (which some people certainly do plan on) then making a bigger investment in something with a longer life span doesn't always make sense.
just had to pause and type my answer there was something about motor two that i liked better. havent watched the rest yet, now i click play again.
hey you picked the cheaper ones!!! That is an interesting result isn't it :)
@@BaconNinjaFPV absolutely! Now I know i gotta those next!
T motor sales is shady is hells. Good product, but their sales department doesn’t even try to hide their crookedness.
2 hours later..... 😀
I had to, it was the perfect place for it!
lol you should hear the motors on the potato lol they sound shocking!
lol, I bet the motors on that rig are one of the places where DJI didn't over engineer :p
@@BaconNinjaFPVyou’ve heard it’s start up? They over engineered it lol. Fun to fly, just don’t crash it.
Emax Eco II gang
#forlife!
Any tick out of a bearing is not good….
Motor 2 $14
Yay! I got it right! and I'm a total noob at this, but I am an engineer so the speed via the frame rate told the story.
Haha bud light
or coors if you preffer :p
Worst hobby since Lawn Darts
I thought my motors may have gotten fucked up and I decided on the Tmotor due to the price and testing stats according to Chris' testing. It ended up not being the motors but my ESC. But if it ever need motors it will be the Tmotor.
Hi
Iv got RCInPower GTS V4 2207 2100KV MCK Edition Motors
Has 3 blk wires
Which wire is red,black and other wire color ??
Thanks 👍 Glen Victoria Australia 👍
I was on the Xing 2207 1855kv. But I just built an analog 5" with the Velox. The velox are way faster than the xing. They pair amazingly with the prop profile of the Ethics PB & J props. It punches off the ground like a rocket
nice. some numbers?
@@sigterm15 y ive now switched to Rosser's AOS supernovas and they are the best motors I have ever used., You want numbers for those? Go to chris rossers page. He has all the numbers you need. the main thing I have noticed is the throttle response between 0 and 50% throttle . They spin up smoother and you can beat the balls off them and they dont get hot.
T motor is having a sale right now for the 2207 v3 motors got 4 motors for less then 12.99 shipped