Quick tip, as it took me a few tries for the cut. When importing the puzzle cut SVG, you want to right click and select "Release compound Vector" which will separate all the lines. Then select the horizontal lines and assign them to a layer, select the vertical lines and assign them to a different layer, and finally give a layer to the box outline. Then through the layer menu, arrange them in order such as horizontal layer first, then vertical layer, and finish up with the box. Then click the three dots next to Process, Process path set to "User defining" and set By Layer to on, and Scanning way to "From top to bottom". I have an xtool P2s with slates, and without doing that the box is cut first, then the vertical, which results in the vertical lines to be cut with no support, then fall through before the horizontal could be cut. Anyway. Thank for the tutorial! For some reason my sublimation needs more work and improvement since the picture is not as bright and colorful as yours, but I suspect that I just need a better poly :) still more learning to be done!
This is a great tip and thanks for sharing. I’ve edited a few of my SVG so far and will be doing exactly this for my next puzzle, if your making puzzles generally the same size you can save the edited SVG for all the next ones. The birch plywood I use is great quality and brush on a light even coat. Make sure you have good even pressure and aim for around 80 seconds, I think going to much longer could warp the plywood even more. Good luck & stay creative 🤙🏻
@@XtraMoreCreations Maybe using Temu wood is not the greatest of ideas ;p I also was using spray instead of liquid. Will try it your way once I have appropriated some liquid poly :)
@ yes better quality wood and poly will hell you achieve greater colours. I have not ordered anything from Temu yet. They were actually tossing a bunch of shipping boxes in the ditch around where I live before Christmas. People would find a dozen Temu boxes just laying in a random ditch few locations.
That looks great, i definitely wanna convert one of those eco printers for sublimation, been on my (ever-growing) list of things to do for a few years lol. One suggestion....after you've sublimated the picture onto the wood, do your coat of polycrylic before you put it in the laser. I do this with anything i paint before lasering, and the char wipes off soooo easy with baby wipes. I've found that words much better than masking.
It’s amazing how well and beautifully sublimation can work. Converting the printer was easy and lots of materials to sub on. I also love the polycrylic and will try coating again after the sublimation vs after cuts. Less clean up and work at the end always nice. I’ll be making a 3rd puzzle this weekend with an actual picture.
nice i used to do this the hard way from years ago when i used to make my own transfers. i would suggest a faster cut but with multiple passes it will give a cleaner cut.. and i used to mask both sides saves cleaning up... but now back into my stonework at the moment..
It was my first time masking the whole puzzle and probably should have left it xtool cut setting or maybe a bit faster then cut twice. I agree the cuts would be cleaner specially masking both sides. So my next puzzle I’ll probably try that so clean up and charring very minimal. The turn around time and sale price for these puzzles is great. I love working with slate.
@@XtraMoreCreations i just managed to get the f1 ultra.. i have been embossing jade.. but you have to be careful as it fractures a lot.. and is costly.. i only had a small part to test on..
With the right amount of heat and still pressure it could be possible but highly recommend a heat press like in the video. Any movement could blur the image so maybe try small trying this method.
@XtraMoreCreations there are multiple types of that, oil, water, fast dry... in the vidwo, the o ly part that shows the can is not in english, and there is no link in your description. Can you please put what you used exactly
Glad you enjoy the videos. I have a small DJI one that I usually use. I really should set up my large one for my laser level then I could show myself with the project more 🙃
Maybe one day I can add it to the workshop. Definitely would be super handy, nice to be able to combine these two. I use sublimation for hoodies, shirts, tumblers and lots more.
Quick tip, as it took me a few tries for the cut. When importing the puzzle cut SVG, you want to right click and select "Release compound Vector" which will separate all the lines. Then select the horizontal lines and assign them to a layer, select the vertical lines and assign them to a different layer, and finally give a layer to the box outline. Then through the layer menu, arrange them in order such as horizontal layer first, then vertical layer, and finish up with the box. Then click the three dots next to Process, Process path set to "User defining" and set By Layer to on, and Scanning way to "From top to bottom".
I have an xtool P2s with slates, and without doing that the box is cut first, then the vertical, which results in the vertical lines to be cut with no support, then fall through before the horizontal could be cut. Anyway. Thank for the tutorial! For some reason my sublimation needs more work and improvement since the picture is not as bright and colorful as yours, but I suspect that I just need a better poly :) still more learning to be done!
This is a great tip and thanks for sharing. I’ve edited a few of my SVG so far and will be doing exactly this for my next puzzle, if your making puzzles generally the same size you can save the edited SVG for all the next ones. The birch plywood I use is great quality and brush on a light even coat. Make sure you have good even pressure and aim for around 80 seconds, I think going to much longer could warp the plywood even more. Good luck & stay creative 🤙🏻
@@XtraMoreCreations Maybe using Temu wood is not the greatest of ideas ;p I also was using spray instead of liquid. Will try it your way once I have appropriated some liquid poly :)
@ yes better quality wood and poly will hell you achieve greater colours. I have not ordered anything from Temu yet. They were actually tossing a bunch of shipping boxes in the ditch around where I live before Christmas. People would find a dozen Temu boxes just laying in a random ditch few locations.
Temu ships in white plastic bags@@XtraMoreCreations
That looks great, i definitely wanna convert one of those eco printers for sublimation, been on my (ever-growing) list of things to do for a few years lol.
One suggestion....after you've sublimated the picture onto the wood, do your coat of polycrylic before you put it in the laser. I do this with anything i paint before lasering, and the char wipes off soooo easy with baby wipes. I've found that words much better than masking.
It’s amazing how well and beautifully sublimation can work. Converting the printer was easy and lots of materials to sub on. I also love the polycrylic and will try coating again after the sublimation vs after cuts. Less clean up and work at the end always nice. I’ll be making a 3rd puzzle this weekend with an actual picture.
I came here to ask if you could do that. Is it safe to put the polycrylic through the laser? I mean does it give of toxic fumes?
@@anastasiagarside474 no toxic fumes just make sure nice and dry and you have good venting as always with these cuts and engraves
You can buy wide mask. After you sublimate, put a 12 by 12 tile on it, and something heavy on it and let it cool. Will keep it flat
Super thanks
Welcome
Loved it.
nice i used to do this the hard way from years ago when i used to make my own transfers. i would suggest a faster cut but with multiple passes it will give a cleaner cut.. and i used to mask both sides saves cleaning up... but now back into my stonework at the moment..
It was my first time masking the whole puzzle and probably should have left it xtool cut setting or maybe a bit faster then cut twice. I agree the cuts would be cleaner specially masking both sides. So my next puzzle I’ll probably try that so clean up and charring very minimal. The turn around time and sale price for these puzzles is great. I love working with slate.
@@XtraMoreCreations i just managed to get the f1 ultra.. i have been embossing jade.. but you have to be careful as it fractures a lot.. and is costly.. i only had a small part to test on..
Stupid question. Can you sublimate images using an iron?
With the right amount of heat and still pressure it could be possible but highly recommend a heat press like in the video. Any movement could blur the image so maybe try small trying this method.
Hi, thanks a lot for your video. I didnt catch what you used on the wood before sublimation. Can you tell me what it was?
The birch was pre coated with polycrylic and brushed on, takes about 24hrs to fully dry.
@XtraMoreCreations there are multiple types of that, oil, water, fast dry... in the vidwo, the o ly part that shows the can is not in english, and there is no link in your description. Can you please put what you used exactly
Enjoy your videos. You really need a tripod!! 😂😂
Glad you enjoy the videos. I have a small DJI one that I usually use. I really should set up my large one for my laser level then I could show myself with the project more 🙃
Nice work, sell your s1 and buy m1 ultra 4 in 1 :D
Maybe one day I can add it to the workshop. Definitely would be super handy, nice to be able to combine these two. I use sublimation for hoodies, shirts, tumblers and lots more.