Dont get stranded! Top 5 fixes/repairs your Land Cruiser 100 LX470 needs right now
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- Опубликовано: 2 авг 2024
- whats up youtube! the land cruiser 100 is probably one of the most reliable cars on the road, and definately the MOST reliable car offroad. that said, the 100 is 20 years old and lots of parts are starting to fail and will need replacing.
i've put together a list of 5 things to check/replace on the land cruiser 100. these 5 things might just prevent you from getting stranded.
/ thirteensmilespergallon
5 reasons why you shouldnt
• 5 reasons you should N...
5 things to avoid when Land Cruiser shopping
• 5 things you must avoi...
cooling system:
• Heater Hose T replacem...
fuse box:
• 100 series infamous "c...
camera equipment used in this video:
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1:14 Timing Belt & Water Pump
2:16 Cooling System
3:00 Fuse box
4:00 Starter
4:35 Brake Master
Been there, done most of that and A LOT More!
Bought 04 LC 176k mi. one owner all dealer serviced. Wrapping up major service and maintenance, although haven't thought of or looked at Fuse or brake master yet.
You are making some great videos for us LX470/100 series owners. Please keep making them! I hope this channel blows up because a lot of us can benefit from these. Appreciate the effort and happily subscribed!
Thanks!!! I’ll try
Just picked up a 2000 LC with 348,000 and 1 owner. Can’t wait to check into these 5 items. Timing belt/waterpump is probably first for me…
Man, this channel has helped me a great deal since purchasing my LC in 2019. Thanks.
you are always the best
I wish you progress and success
Awesome video! Thanks for the advice!
Good stuff. Just picked up a 1999 LX 470 (98k miles) and this going to be helpful down the road.
So well stated. Thank you so much 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Quality content, thank you for sharing.
Excellent video. I would argue the heater tees are the #1 important. They’re also the easiest! They broke on us in a gas station, and I replaced them in about 20 mins. I’d almost recommend keeping an extra set in the glove box.
Definitely! Very very important
Did you use the plastic ones again or brass
@@ozzie3056 no, we were on the road. Bought some at a nearby Toyota dealer. Lucky they had them.
I think the issue you need to be worried about brakes is that the electric accumulator motor wears out and stops building the pressure in the accumulator bottle. It is great that you rebuilt MC, which comes with a new piston. But you should regularly check for the accumulator motor.
The easiest way to check is to time how long it runs, when you first turn on the car. If it runs for longer than 40sec, you are getting close to needing a replacement soon. It can literally leave you with almost no brakes without much prior warning!
To replace it you can replace the $2300 assembly (like you mentioned here) which includes a new MC OR you can replace the unit which comes with accumulator bottle and motor which costs only about $1000.
good to know ill keep that in mind
Awesome vid. My 2000 LX 470 already had a new Brake Master Cylinder, Starter and Throttle Body replaced when I bought it. I just replaced the Timing belt and did the heater T's right away.
Lucky!! The previous owner hooked you up!
@@chowcares Indeed! Thanks for all the great videos!
Many thanks for all the vids. Imo the heater T-pipes are a top priority. If they failed the engine would overheat, leaving one stranded with severe, expensive damage. Dirt cheap to replace too. Mine were rotten and leaking after 14 years and 264k kms (164k miles). Luckily my post-purchase panic youtube research found a vid mentioning these, and I had them replaced just before a 2000 km trip to Mozambique. Happy 4x4ing!
Oh yes those!!! Mine started leaking soon after I got my 100. One of my earlier videos was changing those out
This is 100% spot on. I bought a 100 series with 175k miles and already needed to fix the cooling hose and brake master. I think I will go ahead and update the fuse box and maybe starter
Starter rebuild kits are available too. The contacts in mine were about gone. Everything seemed in good shape.
After listening to you, I appreciate mire and more my 100 with 1fz-fe manual transmission
NOW I SEE WHY I SAW AN LAND CRUISER SITTING IN SOME ONE DRIVE WAY. IT LOOKED LIKE IT BEEN THERE FOR AN LONG TIME. THEY COST SO MUCH TO FIX. PEOPLE NEED TO WATCH YOUR VIDEO FOR THE TRUTH ABOUT LAND CRUISER AN THE COST TO KEEP THEM ON THE ROAD
Thanks for the advice
So I think that the fuse box issue for the EFI fuse was actually only relevant for the earliest LCs (98-00) and was remedied after that. However you are correct in that there have been some that have been able to build a bypass relay of sorts to get things working. When/if mine ever starts to have issues I will likely do like you did and just replace the whole box. Simple and easy (so to speak) solution.
For the starter, the entire intake has to come off to be able to access everything. However, the FSM states that first the upper then the lower must be removed. This is not necessarily accurate as all the bolts are available and accessible for the lower intake without special consideration/tools and thus the entire intake manifold can come out as one piece. I argued with my shop when I had this done (based on MUD stuff) and actually sent them the link from the thread that showed how to do it. When I went back after they were done, they actually told me that they were wrong, apologized for arguing with me and actually had found a bunch of other time saving stuff in the thread. Unfortunately there are no more NEW OE/OEM starters out there (unless you get incredibly lucky) so go with a DENSO (OE) rebuilt or better yet, get the Toyota rebuild kit (like $80) and rebuild yourself! I kept my old OE start and plan to purchase the rebuild kit so that I have a spare on hand should I ever need to replace my rebuilt DENSO starter.
TB/WP absolutely should have the entire kit with tensioners, pullies, cam seals done at the same time including the heater ts. If you are on your second or third TB/WP service then it is likely time to throw in the Fan bracket (like you said) as well as the fan clutch. I just had my TB/WP done and found that it was likely the FACTORY belt at 203k. When I purchased the truck I had no service records showing it was done but did have serpentine belt and the radiator looks brand new (but no paperwork). So I took a gamble. Belt was still in decent shape, cracked but no fraying or anything so dodged a bullet with that one (though with these engines the tb going is not the end of the world). Crazy thing was that my drivers side cam was a tooth off timing. So apparently someone had been in there, plus a few bolts that were not OE stuff. Figuring maybe WP when the rad was done and they either threw the old belt back on or said they were putting new one on and didn't.
Really good info, my timing belt was supposedly done right before I got it. Later I found out that yes it was done, but only the timing belt was changed, nothing else. I found out when the waterpump started leaking 😑😑😑
From what I've read the factory Toyota remans have re-build parameters that are more thorough when compared to the denso remans. I'm sure you'd have good luck with either part, just a tidbit I thought i would add to the conversation.
The starter job isn't too bad; take it off in one piece, and its a good Idea to be very careful around the water bypass pipe that connects vertically to the heater T, as they can easily be tweaked and leak - which is only fixable by replacing. Also a good idea to replace the square-shaped water bypass gaskets while you're in there for peace of mind. Be sure to inspect the rubber injector insulators and seals, they don't last forever!
Great video 👍 where would you recommend we buy the fuse box from for a 2000 lx470
When I bought my new to me 100 with 200k miles, I changed the timing belt/water pump and did most of the “while you’re in there” items including hoses/fan clutch/thermostat/etc. Then a month later the alternator went bad and left me stranded lol. So I’d add that to the list if your alternator is of unknown age.
Same here, mine started to make noises and the dash light usually come on when the voltage is low.
Alternator failed on me a few months back. Definitely should be on the list
As someone who is looking to find a 100 Series LC, I really appreciated your insight. After seeing this, however, it's making me wonder what a fair price for an older LC would be when considering all of the things that would need to be replaced to ensure dependability out on the trails. Any recommendations on how to go about attempting to purchase? Should I pay for a Toyota Inspection and Diagnostic test prior? Not being a mechanically-inclined person causes me to wonder what the safest way to go about this might be. Thanks for your videos!
Good vid. With the brake master you can have to motor re-wound as this is usually the part that fails. Also in the shots of your master cylinder your brake fluid is over filled. the level should be at max after you have emptied the accumulator by pumping the pedal 40 times with the ignition off. Yours is about an inch over max.
awesome observation
Nice looking 100, mate. 👍
Here in Aus it's fairly common for the lower control arms to crack apart where the torsion bar mounts. We weld up the bolt-on strength brackets that come with some suspension kits, it's a must do for heavy cruisers with bullbar and winch, same goes for the adjusters for the rear of the torsion bars.
Another issue you may not be aware of, if you're still running the OME shocks in the front, these shocks are the same length as factory shocks. This means you cannot lift the IFS more than about 1" above factory hight before running out of droop. You must maintain around 70mm of droop if you want the front suspension to work correctly. ARB have been very wrong on this for years, and should never advertised these for a 2.5" lift. You must find longer front shocks that are at least 15mm longer than factory for even a mild 2 inches of lift. The good news about that is, because it's around the 2:1 ratio of movement you end up with around 30mm more down travel at the tyre. As you can understand, this makes a big advantage off road. Bad news is, not much shock choice other than Icon and Dobinson.
Just wondering if you still have the toyota part number for the brake master rebuild kit?
Thanks for great video it will help a lot, I owned LC100 2005 I have a problem with master cylinder please share rebuild kit information I can rebuild it☺️
Awesome video. Other considerations.... 1) ignition rod (mine snapped) left me stranded, no prior signs at all. 2) alternator (although battery indicator will come on, maybe intermittently) also leaves you stranded.
Granted my 100 has 294k miles on it.
Ive done all things except for brake master, which has to be done. I also had the crank no start, but I changed my fuse and it’s been good for months now, so I am a little baffled, but prob need to get that fuse box as suggested regardless I guess.
Just keep a couple new fuses with you. It will happen more and more frequently towards the end of the life of the fuse box
@@chowcares appreciate the tip! New box should be done at some point. The brake master is what I’m dreading most. $$$
I replaced my rack pinion 2x, I replaced the tie end rods 4x, I replaced the ball joints both upper and lower 3x, I replaced the alternator 2x. But I live in the wilderness areas of NE AZ, I drive on dirt roads and road conditions are subjected to weather. I experienced steering related issues like power steering pumps, hoses and seals. I never experienced your problems.
In terms of the brakes, probably worth at least changing out your brake fluid once every year or two. The cleaner the fluid the better it will be on all the seals and the lower your chances of needing a full rebuild. Easy and cheap to do.
I wonder if you can perform a drag test at the fuse connection. Inserting a correct size fuse blade into each individual female connector and checking for proper clearance, should feel a slight drag when slowly pulling out to avoid excessive air gap that may lead to arching.
My wife's 99' 100 would crank, but not start, she switched the 20 amp EFI fuse with another and it started! both fuses were good? Thanks for the info, good to know about fuse box.
Thanks heaps for this, I have been considering selling my gen 4 pajero and buying a 100 series but I'm not so sure now, my pajero has been flawless to date.......oh and by the way I love the FC Rx7 in the background, I have a Mk 3 supra and they remind me of each other....not engine wise obviously but body shape and pop ups etc.
great job man!
4/5 of the things you have listed I already took care off. Now just waiting for the the brake master to fail :( haha
Lol don’t wait too long!
Chowcares anyway I can pm you?
Bennett ig @dear_landcruiser
Mine failed. 2300, about 850-900 to rebuild. (Master cylinder seals, new accumulator, abs box thing rebuild by some company, it's been a long time) orrrr swap in a fj80 brake booster and master cylinder like me for about 100 bucks. Ditch that annoying abs.
There's another weird one on the 100 that has me slightly worried. The ignition barrel. I've had mine not catch once and it's a known problem that the internals break. It's on my list to replace for peace of mind.
I haven’t heard of that one, what are the symptoms?
@@chowcares turn the key and nothing happens. There's a little piece on the aluminum ignition barrel (rod inside) that breaks so it doesn't catch. The solution seems to be buying a new rod replacement. There's a few vids on it and write ups on Mud.
I can confirm this broke on my 99 LC, and stranded my wife and kid. It was tricky, but there is good documentation on RUclips and the LC forums. I ended up getting a replacement/aftermarket from eBay. The oem part isn’t available without buying the entire key mechanism from toyota for several hundred dollars. The repair itself wasn’t super hard, but does require standing on your head in the floorboard.
I was also able to start and drive the car home using a pair of long needle nose pliers.
@@charlesamoshorn Did you buy the whole assembly on Ebay? Or just replace the rod inside. I haven't looked at the solution for a couple months, but I thought I remember watching a vid on replacing just the rod inside the barrel. And it did look like a bit of a contortionist job
Have you opted to beef up the front diff? I hear the are pretty fragile
Is the brake master of the V8 petrol engine the same as the Diesel engine?
I forgot to do my water pump when I got my timing belt done yikes and did my starter that was expensive too I didn't do them myself now I'm currently working on fan bracket myself and that sucks nothings easy in this cruiser but I still love it and I'm learning a lot
Timing belt but not water pump? 😐 going back in for the fan bracket? 😐 you might as well do the waterpump at the same time lol, you’re almost there
@@chowcares I know I didn't know about the water pump way back when
I had the same problem. The previous owner said he changed the timing belt and I assumed the waterpump was changed too. A few thousand miles later the water pump starts to leak. I take it all apart and he did change the timing belt, but only the timing belt 🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️. Needless to say, I changed EVERYTHING to new oem parts. From what I remember the fan bracket was expensive but the best time to do it was during the timing belt because soooooo much stuff has to come out. Anywayssssss.... I’m glad you’re enjoying your 100, both driving and maintaining 😁
@@chowcares yeah it looks like I'm almost ready to take out the bracket it's just frustrating sometimes fixing little stuff I well tho it's what it is
How many of these items are the same on the 4.2 turbo Diesel motor in the 100 series?
I have been through 4 starters on my LX470. Each time they replaced it the fuel injection rails had to be removed. The front spacer for the hood has been destroyed because people think it is bulky enough to step on. Take my advice and get a brand new starter and not a rebuild. Because of the location of the starter on the LC and LX it just makes better sense to get a brand new starter and save yourself the headache I have gotten over the last 5 years. Each time it has been 1500.00 to replace for me. The new starter sound and quick response also is a plus. This versus the tired rebuilds they are selling out there. Hope that helps someone.
i had a problem with the fuse box as you did then i took it toyota they could not find it it was there for 10 days i got it back home after paying heaps for nothing still not working. in the end it was the fuel pump i changed it all good now
Did the engine crank at all while trying to start?
Great truck, I just got one also. Can you go over your roof rack up grade? thx
Gobi
What is the failure of the fuse box? If i remove and clean each fuse and spray deoxit 5 contact cleaner on every fuse holder that might be good for ten years.
Depends on the actual failure that happens .
I've been having a starting issue on my 100 for a couple years where it cranks for a few seconds before turning over. The thing is, if you hold it long enough, it will start every time. This has made me think that it's not an EFI issue. The starter turns quickly too. Do you think this could be caused by a bad connection in the fuse box, or does it sound more like a fuel pressure/pump issue?
This is common on 2uz engines and as far as I know it is normal
dont forget about the front diff failures. I've exploded two on my POS 99. still love her tho
Hmm starter - recently my landy delays before start. I turn the key, and nothing - I hold it for 15-30 seconds and all of the sudden it starts, as if nothing happened (year old proper battery). Brake Master? I gotta check that - everything else done.
Does the brake master cylinder cause you to lose all breaking even when you are driving? Any warning signs? Mines been making a loud humming noise!
Your abs pump is going out.
Is the fuseBox still available from Toyota?
Or is it necessary to source a used one and beef up the internals?
It should be, make sure you give the dealer your vin to confirm fitment. Different years had slight differences
Anybody have the part number on the rebuild kit
You can buy the booster separate, $772 from McGeorge.
Also don't forget the ignition rod!!!!
Oooo I didn’t know that, gotta look into it
@@chowcares I did the whole master cylinder and it was $2100 from Mc George, the original lasted 520000 miles so I can't complain! Doing the whole unit at least was an easy job if spendy. The brake lines need watched for corrosion depending on geographic area. They rot out behind the front wheel area and cause total failure. (400000miles for me)
Great videos!
Just a friendly FYI. Your brake fluid level is too high. The level after it sits for a while and the accumulator is drained or when you depress the brake pedal 20-30 times with the ignition off is when you set the level. My reservoir was overfilled by the dealer and it caused a horrible, spongy, sticky brake pedal feel. After siphoning out some fluid it was perfect. It's printed on the reservoir to drain the accumulator before setting the level.
Man that fc rx7 in the back tho😮
Nice rx7
Show us some content on the FC.
No one cares lol
Talk about the FC that's casually sitting behind ya
It’s a work in progress but I’ll try to put something together soon
I have a 03, when the weather is under 55 degrees if it's in drive but sitting still (Stop light) something starts to rattle ( sounds like a metal fan hitting something), stops if you put it in neutral or push on the gas??? Has the serpentine belt replaced last week, still makes the noise but not nearly as loud.🤷
Honestly it could be a million things. If you changed the belt and it got a bit better you might wanna check the idler pulley and tensioner pulley. Mine weren’t too bad but they made some noise too. After changing, they’re super quiet now. I have a video on changing them just search my channel
@@chowcares thank you
@@Paige3_ Mine 99 lx does something very similar, it's an exhaust hanger in my case.
@@dbergreen I will keep that in mind & mention it to my mechanic the next time I have it serviced, thank you! He has looked it over and thinks a cover on something could be loose but can't find anything.
The fuse box might explain my oil light coming on for no reason, I simply turn on and off the heat and the oil light goes off. I have an 80 tho...
I’m not too sure on the 80, but you might want to check the oil pressure
Brake master just went in mine. Toyota want 4K for the replacement unit, excluding labour, in Australia. Reconditioned unit with a warranty was less than half
Any of these issues carry over to the 200 series?
Just changed the water pump, thermostat, and driver belt on my 2016 Lexus LX570 with 94K, cost $1,200. Plan to flush/change all fluids when 100K hits.
@Overlander2022 I ended up getting a 2008 LC 200 a few months ago and so far so good...time will tell
Hey chow, thanks for your videos. Do you think a 2005 land cruiser with 350k miles is still worth it?
Just picked up 350k mile one. Seems fine to me. Just beat up
Same here. Swapped an 07 ls460 with 104,000 miles for a 05 LC with 314,000. Even trade. Most people think I am stupid but I love the LC and this is my second one as I regret selling my 99 at 160,000
battery drain power?
That’s a tough one, you just gotta check all the fuses and see what’s drawing power
Although I had horrible fuse box issues, I would put timing belt + as if that goes we are talking BIG $$$
I feel like timing belt is a known item, like you know it’s coming and can prepare your wallet for it. Where as the fuse box hits you from outta nowhere!
@@chowcares it sure did.
Don’t forget about the AHC system. If neglected it could fail, if it fails your not going anywhere.
Very true!!
So would you suggest we take the LC100 to a Dealer to have the Fuse box checked ?
There probably isn’t a test for a faulty fuse box. If you’ve experienced crank but no start, that’s probably the early signs of the fuse box going iut
@@chowcares Thank you Sir,your greatly appreciated. Also is there a Suspension shop you trust, because I want to upgrade my 100
Just got my fuse box.. $700.00 part
Aisin is pronounced Ice-In