The two common forms of shellac available for sale are shellac that contains wax (unsuitable for watchmaking) and wax free/dewaxed shellac, which is suitable for watchmaking. Being a natural product, batches do vary. I find a good test is heating a flake and attempting to draw a thread by pulling a corner of it away from the rest of the flake. If it will draw a thread and the thread sets up hard when cool, the shellac is good for use. Shellac also has a shelf life, it can go bad in as little as a year, so old shellac is useless and the vintage/antique watchmaker’s shellac often seen on eBay is good only as an ornament. Alex Hamilton’s watchmaking resources are certainly top notch, I’m glad you gave him a shoutout, JD.
Shellac being a natural substance it varies a lot. My understanding is watchmakers shellac is quite a lot different from the various furniture polish shellac, worth experimenting with if unsure of the origins.
I totally agree. The shellac that I got is likely the stuff that you were use for finishing furniture and I don’t know whether it’s got the qualities required to keep an impulse Jewel in place
JD, a quick google search of spirit lamp definition says that a spirit lamp is a lamp burning methylated spirits, which if IIRC, is a British term for what we on this side of the pond call denatured alcohol which produces a hot smokeless blue flame when lit. As Churchill was fond of saying, two peoples separated by a common language😁.
Forgot to add this to my first comment. It is a bit hard to tell (watching this on my phone) if the liquid shellac you are forming is clear or not. The reason I mention this is wax free shellac dissolves in alcohol to give a completely transparent solution. You can get a great idea of how it should look in Alex’s video. If the solution is at all cloudy you are using shellac that has not been dewaxed, and this is unsuitable for watchmaking. Also, be careful with such hot heat sources around bimetallic temperature compensating balance wheels, if you alter the temper of the metal the temperature compensation is ruined. I’ve seen examples that were heated by previous repairmen that expanded very unevenly because one arm had gotten much hotter than the other, presumably when fitting a roller jewel without first removing the roller table. I think this balance should be ok, the flame stayed quite distant and the metal plate you had it on would’ve worked as a heat sink.
That was a trial balance and not the one I will be working on. The shellac I purchased was dark yellow. Will do some strength testing on it a well, when it is cured tomorrow. If it is not transparent, I will purchase the wax freee shellac and make another batch. I have the time and want to do it right.
@@JDRichard One of the things I really appreciate about your work is that you always take the time to do it right. No dodgy shortcuts that I often notice elsewhere.
@@JDRichard Shellac is the dried resin secreted by the female lac beetle and contains waxes to begin with. These waxes can be helpful when used in woodwork finishing, but for the glossiest finish, whilst not interfering with the wood’s natural colour, dewaxed shellac is preferred. Dewaxed shellac is compatible with water based varnish and lacquer, for which it is also preferred.
I was taught when applying heat to melt the shellac that you're supposed to apply the heat from below the brass table to slowly heat up the roller table, impulse jewel, and shellac just until the shellac melts and flows then stop applying heat and let everything cool. Using that Bernzomatic hand torch to apply heat on the top would wreak havoc... wouldn't it?
whats the comment about the shellac needing to be clear ? my vintage watchmakers shellac inst clear. and no watch vie worked on has clear shellac holding jewels in. its all a golden brown color.
So do you let the roller table soak in IPA for an hour first to clean up the old shellac? Also, when you put in the new jewel, do you put the new shellac in the jewel hole first and then push the jewel in from the bottom.
i have good contact with Dayton and Mike maybe in the future a calab i am very active with cronoglide did a live sesion there love the channel.. just ask Dayton or Mike about that crazy Elder and they will know lol thnx for the info... I am a watchmaker from the north of Holland!!
The two common forms of shellac available for sale are shellac that contains wax (unsuitable for watchmaking) and wax free/dewaxed shellac, which is suitable for watchmaking.
Being a natural product, batches do vary. I find a good test is heating a flake and attempting to draw a thread by pulling a corner of it away from the rest of the flake. If it will draw a thread and the thread sets up hard when cool, the shellac is good for use.
Shellac also has a shelf life, it can go bad in as little as a year, so old shellac is useless and the vintage/antique watchmaker’s shellac often seen on eBay is good only as an ornament.
Alex Hamilton’s watchmaking resources are certainly top notch, I’m glad you gave him a shoutout, JD.
Good stuff for any watchmaker!
The longer this is kept in an airtight container (as not to dry out), the smoother and clearer this will become. Good stuff.
A 24 hour wait is good.
Excellent video; I’ll check in tomorrow and see how it’s going. Your shellac looks sluggish enough now but probably ought to let it set overnight.
Shellac being a natural substance it varies a lot. My understanding is watchmakers shellac is quite a lot different from the various furniture polish shellac, worth experimenting with if unsure of the origins.
I totally agree. The shellac that I got is likely the stuff that you were use for finishing furniture and I don’t know whether it’s got the qualities required to keep an impulse Jewel in place
A thread tied on the end of new wick and first put through the wick tube will assist in getting the new wick past the advance wheel.
I shall try.
JD, a quick google search of spirit lamp definition says that a spirit lamp is a lamp burning methylated spirits, which if IIRC, is a British term for what we on this side of the pond call denatured alcohol which produces a hot smokeless blue flame when lit. As Churchill was fond of saying, two peoples separated by a common language😁.
Thanks Ed. But the new wick I picked up this afternoon also does not fit. Crap!
I have denatured Alcohol coming from the us via Amazon
Forgot to add this to my first comment.
It is a bit hard to tell (watching this on my phone) if the liquid shellac you are forming is clear or not.
The reason I mention this is wax free shellac dissolves in alcohol to give a completely transparent solution. You can get a great idea of how it should look in Alex’s video.
If the solution is at all cloudy you are using shellac that has not been dewaxed, and this is unsuitable for watchmaking.
Also, be careful with such hot heat sources around bimetallic temperature compensating balance wheels, if you alter the temper of the metal the temperature compensation is ruined. I’ve seen examples that were heated by previous repairmen that expanded very unevenly because one arm had gotten much hotter than the other, presumably when fitting a roller jewel without first removing the roller table.
I think this balance should be ok, the flame stayed quite distant and the metal plate you had it on would’ve worked as a heat sink.
That was a trial balance and not the one I will be working on. The shellac I purchased was dark yellow. Will do some strength testing on it a well, when it is cured tomorrow. If it is not transparent, I will purchase the wax freee shellac and make another batch. I have the time and want to do it right.
Why would the have wax in shellac. For wood work?
@@JDRichard One of the things I really appreciate about your work is that you always take the time to do it right. No dodgy shortcuts that I often notice elsewhere.
@@JDRichard Shellac is the dried resin secreted by the female lac beetle and contains waxes to begin with. These waxes can be helpful when used in woodwork finishing, but for the glossiest finish, whilst not interfering with the wood’s natural colour, dewaxed shellac is preferred. Dewaxed shellac is compatible with water based varnish and lacquer, for which it is also preferred.
@mercuriall2810 I bit anal
next day or longer for best results. but dont leave lid off. it will all dry out fast.
Thanks
Thanks for the thanks
I was taught when applying heat to melt the shellac that you're supposed to apply the heat from below the brass table to slowly heat up the roller table, impulse jewel, and shellac just until the shellac melts and flows then stop applying heat and let everything cool. Using that Bernzomatic hand torch to apply heat on the top would wreak havoc... wouldn't it?
whats the comment about the shellac needing to be clear ?
my vintage watchmakers shellac inst clear. and no watch vie worked on has clear shellac holding jewels in. its all a golden brown color.
So do you let the roller table soak in IPA for an hour first to clean up the old shellac? Also, when you put in the new jewel, do you put the new shellac in the jewel hole first and then push the jewel in from the bottom.
i have good contact with Dayton and Mike maybe in the future a calab i am very active with cronoglide did a live sesion there love the channel.. just ask Dayton or Mike about that crazy Elder and they will know lol thnx for the info... I am a watchmaker from the north of Holland!!
Buy a can of shellac at ACE Hardware??
Way too much, plus, want the experience mixing it