Here is what happens if your make a mistake on a leaning tree ruclips.net/video/h-x9dThrmwA/видео.html here are my 3 favorite videos on felling a leaning tree: @OutdoorsWithTheMorgans ruclips.net/video/Pfj6DXzeIoU/видео.html @terryhale9006 ruclips.net/video/tGLV4AcyYXw/видео.html @guiltyoftreesoneastsidetre4792 ruclips.net/video/nLIEYvHMS8U/видео.html
What you're teaching here is an older method that has gotten a lot of cutters hurt. Let's hope you haven't gotten anyone hurt using this insane, and completely dangerous method. And to top it off, you even did it wrong. Most living breathing successful modern day fallers use a double face. A double face (bird's mouth, instead of a Humboldt) takes all the tension off the lean, let's the faller control the direction of the fall, and eliminates the need for a bore cut, unless you're using a real short bar. Also, there's a reason pro fallers were short chaps, and "peg" their pants. The first time you get the hems of your pant legs, or those stupid straps on the chaps hung up in the brush, and fall face first into yur bar, you'll catch right on. The other thing is that cap your wearin!! It was designed, and built for a European market, not the American market. Europeans have an entirely different forest, with entirely different harvesting methods, for both hard and soft wood. There's a reason the cutters on the West Coast wear full brim, TIN hats with secure suspensions!!! In fact I had one save my life! The tin will collapse and take the heat instead of remaining rigid and snapping your neck. Same with the full length chaps, they're designed for a European market.
Well done!! Be careful though cutting that one up with the trunk totally off the ground. I got air lifted to Vanderbilt in Nashville 4 years ago bucking a tree like that and I’ve been felling trees for 45 years. I read it wrong and it rolled at me and crushed my right leg ( compartmental syndrome ). Almost lost my leg but thanks to god and the surgeon team I kept it. A year after the accident I was back at it felling timber. Great video today explaining how dangerous a leaning tree is to fell. Keep em coming! Your Channel is the best of its type on RUclips Hands down!
Sorry to hear about your accident. That’s definitely a scary situation and I’m glad you recovered from it Thanks for the kind words about the channel. I agree that the part that is left to do is probably more dangerous than cutting the tree down
Just an FYI, when making a bore cut you can actually get a good general idea of the depth of rot in the inside by monitoring any changes in the wood chips and dust that come out as you cut. Thst is important because it shows you how far the tree is compromised so you can be less likfly to have it crumble on you Nice controlled drop
The first and most important piece of safety gear is a good set of brains. You brought yours and applied them to the problem. This video could save a life. Everybody stay safe out there.
@clairecelestin8437 je sais que c’est la grande mode de ne parler que des épis mais je préfère voir quelqu’un qui connaît son boulot et se sert de son cerveau que d’avoir 1000€ d’épis et de prendre l’arbre sur la tête 😂dans ce cas les épis ne serviront à rien ! Par contre c’est la première fois que je vois faire le perçage avant la charnière. Mais pourquoi pas 😂😂😂
Well executed! I've used straps and chains for a safety net on hard leaners. One suggestion, and it seems others have said it as well, cut the trigger wood from the outside and just below the back cut line. Cut most of the way back as you did, then switch. This reduces the chance of the tree taking your saw with it and can give you just a little more distance from the trunk when you pop it. Stay safe and nice video!
I don't think you should post this to other RUclipsr People as they seem to think they've learnt something useful and could probably die, those rachit straps will do nothing except maybe smack the person's head another wey to die, while you were doing the feling back cut your saw could have been trapped then what do you do, lots ov mistakes mate
When the video rolled in reverse after it fell I thought the tree sprung back up and I thought you were going back to try to cut it again haha it freaked me out alittle. Good job!
Ditto here, I did freak out when he played that video in reverse, I thought the tree was kicking back and he was going to get a dose of tree trunk applied directly to the forehead.
I am no woodcutter, but that looked really well made and very well executed. Shows how to safely cut down a leaning tree with no barberchair. Very impressive
I would have done an open face notch on this one to give as much time as possible before the notch closes. That'll prevent the hinge from breaking off too quickly before the top hits the ground. Once the hinge breaks you lose control of the fall. Worked out in this scenario but can add a bit more safety to the job with an open face. Even a humboldt would be a better choice than a traditional notch here. The only other thing I'd recommend is before cutting through the holding wood on the back cut, pull the bar out and finish the back cut outside-in to prevent a "tail" being pull out of the back strap. It's also easier to pull the saw out if you need to bail quickly.
There's a bunch of possible complications of doing the bore cut first, while the danger can also be mitigated by making a smaller notch, which does not have those risks. Example, if the wood is rotted, hollow there might not be enough holding wood and it might break off unexpectedly while forming the face cut if it is also weakened by a bore. Misalignment of the bore and face cuts, Tear out of the holding wood and root on the back side, yup, just like that 8:04 finish the back cut from back in to meet up with bore. Never know how much root will come up and smack you down.
Time for you to do the video, because the way you wrote is how you do it, not like on a video above. I see no added value doing bore cut before face cut. And I know, what I'm talking, since most of trees I fell, are some kind of leaners (steep terrain).
Face cut first before the bore. The face cut puts the operator in danger, particularly on a forward leaning tree, so you don't want to increase that risk by reducing the holding wood first. Face cut, then bore, then back cut. However, we're taught that the back cut be done coming down from a 45degree angle to meet up with the bore cut, thus giving you added safety from the falling tree. This type of cut we call a Dog's Tooth - beacuse of the remaining wood on the stump after the 45d back cut is completed. (This is what we're taught in the UK.)
Thanks. I'm self taught on the chainsaw and have been cutting my own firewood for 20+ years. There has been a few uncomfortable falls over the years! Thanks to your video, I learned something new today that should help me live longer.
This method is helpful even when the tree isn’t leaning or damaged. It prevents the tree from getting pushed around by wind and also helps prevent the saw getting pinched as the kerf is maintained while cutting. I use this method a lot because it allows me to pause and assess my surroundings until the very last bit of the cutting.
Great vid man, the tree did exactly what you’d planned for it to do without any surprises and in felling, that’s as good as it gets so nothin wrong with that. Appreciate the clear, concise (and accurate) commentary without any bloviating or other various BS (how refreshing!). Plus that plunge cut, dude… putting on a clinic! You’ve obviously stabbed more than a few things with chainsaws. Good technique with strapping the stem as well so nicely done there too (though I tend to go big, using 5/16-3/8 chain with several wraps). I typically keep the back cut a little closer (lower) to the height of the face cut apex both when bore cutting or traditional, and prefer to leave a back strap of holding wood instead of cutting my way out like that. I feel pulling the saw back out of the cut and releasing the trigger from the outside is often a bit safer because the bar isn’t inside the cut as movement begins, and more importantly, it allows you to reposition your body further from the trunk because you no longer need to either dog the saw in or otherwise be close enough to create leverage with your body/arms. Often you can just throttle up and tap the trigger and she’ll release. Lastly, and this usually isn’t a big issue with heavy leaners because typically you’re not going to try to turn them laterally too far away from where they’re already inclined to go (bad idea for plenty of reasons), but a more open face (higher angle) wedge cut keeps the hinge intact through more of the tree’s decent arc, and therefore you’ve got “steering” almost all the way down. While the hinge wood is intact you’ve got control, once it’s not, you don’t. Whatever, not quibbling just throwing it out there. When the trees are on the ground, laying where you intended for them to be, and nobody is hurt or equipment damaged, you’ve done an excellent job. Period. Thanks again, great clip. Cheers.
Man that saw in the beginning cuts trees like butter. Thank u for helping Doss Farm on their property. After the fire they really needed a hand and God bless u. I can’t wait to see those boys running and playing through the hills of that land. U are the best. 🙏😊❤️
Nice job! I’ve been felling trees for years for firewood, not business, and you taught me new tricks! Thank you. That’s some beautiful wood in that tree. Don’t know why you got so many coulda, woulda, shoulda comments, you did a perfect job.
Nicely done Brock! You are really good at walking us through your evaluation, expectations, and execution. And kudos for the safety equipment! Only thing I might mention is given the risk involved with a leaner I might have had someone with you at least until the tree was on the ground just in case...
@@RockhillfarmYT good job chap, just a word on the trigger release cut. It is always best to set your trigger, then pull your saw out, and cut it from outside of the tree. It just gives you a few extra inches of safety, and with it time, also its a lot easier to bring the saw with you that way. i apprieciate that you could not be totally confident regarding the integeraty of the hood that constituted the trigger. But a lot of information can be gleened from both how the saw is cutting, and how the sawdust looks. stay safe chap, greetings from wales U.K
You created that mess with perfection, sir. Well done. As long as no one gets hurt, and nothing (aside from the tree) is damaged.... SUCCESS! Thanks for posting.
Great video. Appreciate the comprehensive explanation of the plan, followed by the felling. Alot of chainsaw vs tree vids just go at it and can't always see what they are doing and rarely know why! Great job
100% the best example of how to fell a very dangerous tree!!! Hands down the best example I've ever see!!! 30+ years cutting trees, i definitely learned a great lesson, thank you sir!!!!
Good job! You could bring even more safety into this process if you stop your felling cut (when you cut from the bore cut outwards) about 5-6 inches before you get through. Then you pull out your saw and this holding strap of wood that is still holding the tree in place you cut inwards with maximum stretched arms as far away from your body as possible. Why is this safer? Because when the tree starts falling your saw is free and you can exit the danger zone immediately. When you review your video you will notice the time delay to pull your saw out of the cut. This little time delay you can eliminate with cutting a holding strap from outside.
I've considered plunging as my first cut on a leaner but always done the face first. Shall give it a go. Plus I always leave a backstrap when tangled limbs are involved, like to prepare my balance well for that quick retreat! Excellent video, the strapping always a good idea with even slightly rotten trees.
Well done video. Proper PPE. Easy to understand explanation for the cinching straps and the overall plan prior to cutting. Good execution of the saw work. Can’t think of anything negative to mention. Good job.
One way to tell if it was rotten is to bore in from the back with the bar vertical, in the direction you want to fall it. Can be done below the falling cuts to possible preserve your log, if that's an issue. The method you used worked, but there are other options as well. After making the under-cut, make two shallow back-cuts, one on each side that angle and meet at the back. Those 2 cuts would form a triangle with the front, or under-cut. Make sure the 2 angle cuts cut into the hinge area on each side about 10-15% of the tree diameter. This allows you to make the back-cut faster, and cutting into the sides of what will be the hinge also tends prevent barber chairs all by itself. Also, make sure you saw cuts as fast as possible, if not the method you used may be best. Another method is to bore in from the rear and just leave wood on the sides for the final felling cut. Trees barber chair when too much hinge wood is left on hard leaning trees, and one reason too much wood is left is the saw can't cut enough of the wood quick enough, and the hinge is too thick and strong to break off or bend. I spent a lot of years falling timber, and probably have fell a quarter million trees in the NW, we had to deal with the same issues on occasion. I have seen big trees barber chaired 30' or 40' up.
I agree Brock. Constructive criticism in a nice way. Most of us like to learn, and there can be more than one way to get it done safely. An open discussion in the comment section prevails.
I watched this with hopes of being taught something I did not know and you did not disappoint. Thank you for sharing this. I actually learned much more than I expected to.
Actually this is a technique I was not at all familiar with. Personally I feel it was a textbook illustration and result. Fortunately it proceeded perfectly well and as you say predictable. Love it when a plan comes together !!!
I love watching these videos. I often wonder where they learned how drop a tree like is. In the 40 plus years I've run a chain I never did it this way. I always found, that starting cutting my notch on the right side of the tree as I face it made it easier to cut my notch. I start with the saw pointing at a right angle in the area were my notch starts. Then I draw my saw around the tree cutting to the depth I need. When the sight lines are pointing in the same direction I want to tree to got. I repeat by the same method to cut top angle to open the notch. Now I'm ready to do my back cut. I do a plunge parallel to my face cut. I cut toward the back on my face cut. If my bar isn't long enough I go around to the side where I started and insert the saw into the back cut I made from the other side. Lastly when I'm ready I cut the back strap that's holding the tree.
That sounds like what I did. The only difference was that I made the plunge cut first. I normally leave a trigger and cut it from the outside. On this one, I went as little too far
Had a hollow poplar leaning over a walking trail. It was about 30" at the base, and at the crest of a steep hill with no safe place to stand while cutting. I cut a square hole in the trunk, put a sandbag above and below a 6lb can of tannerite. Took care of it safely from 200yd away.
Excellent explanation of your plan. The tree came down beautifully, you are standing upright and talking at the end with no injuries. I think you did it perfectly with zero errors. Congratulations, using your head to work smarter and stay safe.
I learned that trick from Mike Morgan in one of his videos. That’s what I love about RUclips. it allows us to all share ideas and learn from each other Thanks for watching
Good job. And well thought out. Thank you. Just one little thing: At a chainsaw course we were taught never to put on chain break with the rear hand but always by rolling forward the back of the wrist of the front hand while keeping hold of the front grip, so as to prevent the possibility of slipping a hand past the chain break and accidentally touching the chain. So that is a habit I have tried to maintain.
The idea behind using a bore cut is so you can cut the backstrap last from OUTSIDE of the tree…cutting backwards from inside could trap or twist the saw out of your hands
I've never used a bore cut because I'm an inexperienced homeowner but I watch videos to learn and improve safety and I've never seen it cut from the inside out like this.
I have cut a lot of trees and I don't get why you would use a cut like this. You have to strap the tree because it could kick back and kill you. You also spend longer since you have to strap the tree and the cut uses a lot more muscle . I like to make my cuts and use a wedge to pound into the tree to hear it cracking if it's a large tree. That way I don't risk my saw and I can run away faster. Seems like the only reason to make a cut like this is for RUclips but feel free to explain to me why cause I am always willing to learn more.
I'm assuming inside out is a tree cutting term, but that doesn't make much sense, since it's not physically possible, but that's not important. Also, I know a backstrap as a primal cut in an animal. I'm very confused.
Putting the straps on the tree is not related to the type of cut I made. It’s a pro tip I learned. You can do that as a safety measure when you think the tree might barber chair. A bore cut is the most common way to cut a tree by professional logger. That’s how they all do it. It gives you control of when the tree falls. To understand why they do it this way you need to know what a barber chair is. Here is a good reference for you explaining it How to Safely Cut Down a Big Tree - Traditional Cut VS Bore Cut ruclips.net/video/QfGCDgp5e8A/видео.html
LMAO , you got me with the instant replay , I thought for a second she had bounced. Perfect execution , Plunge cut and straps were the only way to go into the unknown on such a big leaner.
Good morning from a first time viewer. Here is my clinical take on the ratchet strap not being in the locked handled position. If the handle is not in the locked position it can fail at a much lower than rated specification. There are many known failures of ratchet straps being used while the handle is in the position for tightening and clearly not locked. The better safe than sorry heavy leaner bore cut was very well stated, if not entirely executed with poper forestry spec; super good enogh. The bore cut should have alerted you to the nature of the wood in the middle of the tree. Watch the sawdust and feel if the speed of the chain. If the saw goes crazy faster , then the insides are no good. Sucess to you and youre future posting.
Thanks for the feedback You make a good point on the position of the straps. Also, you can tell by the sawdust, but by that point, I had no reason to change the way I was doing it.
Well done! As someone who did commercial tree work for 4 years, I commend you on your preparation. Taking into account the mishaps that may occur, tree work isn’t dangerous it is hazardous though. Had the escape route ready lol
Hazardous escape routes always annoy me while watching bad cutting videos before anything else. So many people focus on the heavy leaning tree weight and don't realize it's the tiny little root sticking out that will end up getting you hurt or killed
@@Scott-fy7fm more often than not I’d take more time clearing my 45 then it took to put the tree over loll I’d use a 562 or 661 they put the chips down haha
Nice how you brought down the tree. As others said before me. With this kind of leaning trees I use the what we call "Sicherheitsfälltechnik mit Halteband" safety felling technique with retaining strap. You do as you did, except the last few inches, you switch pisition and cut the retaining strap from the outside. Said that you did a very good job!
Overall great job. I really liked the bore cut to set up your face cut and straps to help with integrity. The one thing I would have done differently was instead of completing the back cut from the bore is I would have come in more standard from the back an inch or so below the bore cut to release the back. Would prevent that back peel as well as put you in a better cutting position when it fell if it were to twist or do something unexpected. Learned to cut leaning alder and cottonwood that way.
A friend used to say Say what you mean but you don’t have to be mean when you say it. I think you did a good job, now I need to learn the terminology of a tree feller. ? I have cut down a few hundred trees on MY property but nothing weird or too dangerous. And nothing over 30” across. I’m sure I did a lot of stuff wrong, but just was lucky. Now I’m 64 and my health doesn’t permit me to do any tree cutting, but I still like to dream about doing it. I also love watching someone do what they are good at.
that was freaking beautiful and perfect. thanks for the education. im facing almost the exact feat brother and you gave me the push i needed. bless you
That’s great, truly is. I like this video and the guy who made it but please, look into other bore cutting tutorials. This worked here but is fairly different from every other lesson I’ve ever seen. Husqvarna did a fantastic video on the subject.
Who are you talking about? Everything I use in the video is stuff I bought myself. The chainsaw at that time was over a year old and heavily used. Even my helmet had broken straps on it so it wasn’t really protecting me anymore. Sounds like complaining for the sake of complaining
@sc100ott You're right, that side of the tree has poison ivy. He knows the difference and wouldn't grab it like he did the creeper, unless he was going to rinse his hands before spreading it to the saw or take a leak. 🤣
I was thinking lightning or possibly taking heavy physical damage while it was a small tree I love using the rewind effect on something falling. Thanks for watching
@@RockhillfarmYT I liked the strap idea for added safety, had never seen that before. I was thinking that maybe a wedge tapped temporarily into the plunge cut on the far side of the tree would make it easier to line up the notch cut. On a larger tree, it's not visible unless you stop and walk nearly to the other side. Maybe a dumb idea, but I'm just a fellar, not a feller.
@@RockhillfarmYT Not that it matters now but just for the sake of discussion and maybe future observation. That section of the tree where the wound or "rot" was, looks like the scar left from a discarded co-dominate leader. When the tree was younger it looks like it developed two trunks (leaders), the lean on the section that remained was due to the two leaders growing away from each other, which most likely caused the weaker leader to fall at some point and leaving the scar. In the video at about 1:20 you can see how the wood around the scar is a different color and rounded, relatively smooth, that's called wound wood and is a part of compartmentalization, the natural process of a tree sealing off a damaged section of itself. Great video, I liked how you explained your logic and then executed your plan exactly as you predicted, I call that a success.
Not bad. A couple things I would recommend. First, on ANY tree, but especially on hazard trees like this, your back cut (and thus your plunge cut) should always be even with the vertex of your notch, never above it. Second, I would have put the straps (or better yet, a third strap) a lot closer to the top of your notch.
I’m interested to hear why you say that. Every video I’ve ever seen has stated that your back cut needs to be higher than the bottom of the face cut. The reason given makes perfect sense, and I have examples of why. If something goes wrong and the butt tries to kick back at you, it can’t because you’re back cut is higher and it will catch the tree right there. I remember watching one video where a tree got hung up and was stuck up in the air with the butt still on the log and the Feller mentioned that if his bat cut had been parallel that tree could’ve shot off backward
@@RockhillfarmYT if the tree is trying to kick back at you, you did something wrong. The reason you don't cut above the notch is because the tree won't hinge properly. You'll have a greater chance of either barber chairing or of the tree snapping before you're ready. I've been trained to work on dangerous trees. I had to go in and clean up after someone who cut about 6" above the notch, and the wind took the tree exactly the opposite direction they wanted the tree to go, taking out power lines and a pole. I got an emergency call to come fix the problem where someone started to make their cut above the notch, and the tree started to fall back, pinching their saw. He got lucky. If he had cut another inch or so, the tree would have snapped backwards, and it would have flattened the house where the guy's aunt was sitting, watching him work.
@@garrisonaw The problem with making the back cut level with the bottom of the notch is that the tree may break the hinge and slip backward off the trunk as soon as it's cut, especially if the tree leans or gets hung up on other trees. Making the back cut slightly higher prevents this.
@@wizardsuth It's your choice, obviously. I'm just giving you what I learned in professional arborist training. And when I worked for Davey tree service, it was enough of a safety violation to earn you an official warning, but not serious enough to get suspended.
I think there is a reason for both methods. Before the angle of the undercut was tighter. Nowadays the angle should be around 60 degrees so that the tree almost can reach the ground before the undercut nips.
I have done some work with trees and logs . And yes , that was a very dangerous tree to cut . I think you done everything right . Good job. I had a buddy cut a tree like that couple years ago , and he had a trip to the emergency room , and stitches . He was very lucky , cause the trunk exploded on him . Good job .
I never look for poison ivy or pay attention to it because 41 years living in the country and I’ve never gotten a rash from it I guess you can be somewhat immune to it
@@RockhillfarmYT out here in California we have poison oak. Same "active ingredient" but looks a little different. Some people never get for many years and then one day they do. Just FYI.
Brock the good thing about you & your antics is that you do your best to get & keep our interest. I feel that you would do well explaining paint drying, Just get a quick drying paint.
Well that was kind of cool. Never saw anyone cut a tree from the center back. Like the way you did the hinge. I am still impressed with the bar on your saw. You could almost sit on your tractor seat and cut from there. Two thumbs up.
90% of trees can be cut with the standard procedure but in certain situations you need a trick or two up your sleeve The first time I used that 36 inch bar it was intimidating but now it doesn’t seem like a big deal Thank you for watching Rod
@@RockhillfarmYT love watching your videos. Had my 1025r out yesterday. Dugout some old tree stumps. Put about 5 hours on it playing in the dirt. Had a good time untill a massive rain storm ended my digging..
Thank u for a good explanation, i just bought 7000 square meters of forest and put it down , and i need to educate me in all ways because i have a lot of respect for the danger of cutting trees,
1 you cut too close to the trigger point. You should have left about 2 inches at the end of the back cut, pulled the saw and used the tip of the bar to cut the trigger. Also you could have used the hammer and whacked the tree to to test the tree for a hollow spot. All in all you did a good job on a dangerous tree and I'm glad it worked out safely for you. One more tip. Personally I would have used a chain for strength instead of straps just in case it tried to split
I almost always bore cut unless the tree needs wedged over. Just start the Saw at parallel and then rotate it in so it doesn’t kick back How to Safely Cut Down a Big Tree - Traditional Cut VS Bore Cut ruclips.net/video/QfGCDgp5e8A/видео.html
Great video. I liked your dialog. Explaining everything you’re doing really helps. I’m no professional saw man but I understand what some of the other people in the comments are saying about cutting the back instead of going from the inside out. I do believe that if you’re not rushing things, you’ll be just fine with an inside out trigger cut. Great job!
Great video and super explanation. Every time i started to wonder of you were going to address or explain something, lo and behold you stopped and made sure to talk about it. Thanks for making and sharing this!
I like the way it bounced right back up again the first time. But then you jumped right in there and showed it who's boss. A lot of nice dark heartwood in there!
each technique, including the amount of holding wood, looked perfect and went according to plan. safety first. your reward is a healthy body with no injuries. i use bore cuts on all large trees with lean or signs of decay.
Here is what happens if your make a mistake on a leaning tree
ruclips.net/video/h-x9dThrmwA/видео.html
here are my 3 favorite videos on felling a leaning tree:
@OutdoorsWithTheMorgans
ruclips.net/video/Pfj6DXzeIoU/видео.html
@terryhale9006
ruclips.net/video/tGLV4AcyYXw/видео.html
@guiltyoftreesoneastsidetre4792
ruclips.net/video/nLIEYvHMS8U/видео.html
Thanks for showing how to do this dangerous cut
@@uprightfossil6673 now go and and watch how it should be done Buckin' Billy Ray Smith
What you're teaching here is an older method that has gotten a lot of cutters hurt. Let's hope you haven't gotten anyone hurt using this insane, and completely dangerous method. And to top it off, you even did it wrong.
Most living breathing successful modern day fallers use a double face. A double face (bird's mouth, instead of a Humboldt) takes all the tension off the lean, let's the faller control the direction of the fall, and eliminates the need for a bore cut, unless you're using a real short bar.
Also, there's a reason pro fallers were short chaps, and "peg" their pants. The first time you get the hems of your pant legs, or those stupid straps on the chaps hung up in the brush, and fall face first into yur bar, you'll catch right on.
The other thing is that cap your wearin!! It was designed, and built for a European market, not the American market. Europeans have an entirely different forest, with entirely different harvesting methods, for both hard and soft wood.
There's a reason the cutters on the West Coast wear full brim, TIN hats with secure suspensions!!! In fact I had one save my life! The tin will collapse and take the heat instead of remaining rigid and snapping your neck. Same with the full length chaps, they're designed for a European market.
That reverse footage right as you finished the cut freaked me out! 😂
I enjoy that effect
Thanks for watching
@@sherrickcampbell9054 Me too, and he just put the saw back in to clean up the cut! I had to watch it twice to see what he did with the video!
It was a very nice cut and know one way hart good work
Very resilient tree. Almost hopped back up on the stump. 🤔
Yeah! For a second there, I started doubting all I know about physics! 😂
Well done!! Be careful though cutting that one up with the trunk totally off the ground. I got air lifted to Vanderbilt in Nashville 4 years ago bucking a tree like that and I’ve been felling trees for 45 years. I read it wrong and it rolled at me and crushed my right leg ( compartmental syndrome ). Almost lost my leg but thanks to god and the surgeon team I kept it. A year after the accident I was back at it felling timber. Great video today explaining how dangerous a leaning tree is to fell. Keep em coming! Your Channel is the best of its type on RUclips Hands down!
Sorry to hear about your accident. That’s definitely a scary situation and I’m glad you recovered from it
Thanks for the kind words about the channel. I agree that the part that is left to do is probably more dangerous than cutting the tree down
Just an FYI, when making a bore cut you can actually get a good general idea of the depth of rot in the inside by monitoring any changes in the wood chips and dust that come out as you cut. Thst is important because it shows you how far the tree is compromised so you can be less likfly to have it crumble on you
Nice controlled drop
Yep took the words right out my mouth.
Good work and video. Thanks :-)
The first and most important piece of safety gear is a good set of brains. You brought yours and applied them to the problem. This video could save a life. Everybody stay safe out there.
@clairecelestin8437 je sais que c’est la grande mode de ne parler que des épis mais je préfère voir quelqu’un qui connaît son boulot et se sert de son cerveau que d’avoir 1000€ d’épis et de prendre l’arbre sur la tête 😂dans ce cas les épis ne serviront à rien ! Par contre c’est la première fois que je vois faire le perçage avant la charnière. Mais pourquoi pas 😂😂😂
Well executed! I've used straps and chains for a safety net on hard leaners. One suggestion, and it seems others have said it as well, cut the trigger wood from the outside and just below the back cut line. Cut most of the way back as you did, then switch. This reduces the chance of the tree taking your saw with it and can give you just a little more distance from the trunk when you pop it. Stay safe and nice video!
Somewhere a bar in the future thanks you for remaining unbent
Nice job!
I don't think you should post this to other RUclipsr People as they seem to think they've learnt something useful and could probably die, those rachit straps will do nothing except maybe smack the person's head another wey to die, while you were doing the feling back cut your saw could have been trapped then what do you do, lots ov mistakes mate
My comment was for the vidio creator
@@johngibson3837the ratchet straps at to help prevent the tree from barber chairing
I always enjoy seeing a sharp saw in action! And your dialog was great... straight to the point without any unnecessary rambling. Thank you!
Thank you
Yea no rambling that's nice
When the video rolled in reverse after it fell I thought the tree sprung back up and I thought you were going back to try to cut it again haha it freaked me out alittle. Good job!
I never get tired of using that effect. It looks like I stuck the saw in there just in time
Same exact thing I thought when I watched it.
Ditto
Ditto here, I did freak out when he played that video in reverse, I thought the tree was kicking back and he was going to get a dose of tree trunk applied directly to the forehead.
Same😂
I am no woodcutter, but that looked really well made and very well executed. Shows how to safely cut down a leaning tree with no barberchair. Very impressive
My thoughts as well
I would have done an open face notch on this one to give as much time as possible before the notch closes. That'll prevent the hinge from breaking off too quickly before the top hits the ground. Once the hinge breaks you lose control of the fall. Worked out in this scenario but can add a bit more safety to the job with an open face. Even a humboldt would be a better choice than a traditional notch here. The only other thing I'd recommend is before cutting through the holding wood on the back cut, pull the bar out and finish the back cut outside-in to prevent a "tail" being pull out of the back strap. It's also easier to pull the saw out if you need to bail quickly.
There's a bunch of possible complications of doing the bore cut first, while the danger can also be mitigated by making a smaller notch, which does not have those risks.
Example, if the wood is rotted, hollow there might not be enough holding wood and it might break off unexpectedly while forming the face cut if it is also weakened by a bore.
Misalignment of the bore and face cuts, Tear out of the holding wood and root on the back side, yup, just like that 8:04 finish the back cut from back in to meet up with bore. Never know how much root will come up and smack you down.
Time for you to do the video, because the way you wrote is how you do it, not like on a video above. I see no added value doing bore cut before face cut. And I know, what I'm talking, since most of trees I fell, are some kind of leaners (steep terrain).
Face cut first before the bore. The face cut puts the operator in danger, particularly on a forward leaning tree, so you don't want to increase that risk by reducing the holding wood first. Face cut, then bore, then back cut. However, we're taught that the back cut be done coming down from a 45degree angle to meet up with the bore cut, thus giving you added safety from the falling tree. This type of cut we call a Dog's Tooth - beacuse of the remaining wood on the stump after the 45d back cut is completed. (This is what we're taught in the UK.)
That's how I would have done it so you can cut the stump low & your final cut can be done standing up allowing you get away safely.
Exactly this guy is clueless doing that crap
Thanks. I'm self taught on the chainsaw and have been cutting my own firewood for 20+ years. There has been a few uncomfortable falls over the years! Thanks to your video, I learned something new today that should help me live longer.
Great job and I enjoy your sense of humor! “Nothing wrong with being nice about it” That was awesome😀
Thanks
Yehp! I was gonna comment on that too. A little civility on RUclips goes a long way.
This method is helpful even when the tree isn’t leaning or damaged. It prevents the tree from getting pushed around by wind and also helps prevent the saw getting pinched as the kerf is maintained while cutting. I use this method a lot because it allows me to pause and assess my surroundings until the very last bit of the cutting.
Same. I bore cut unless I need to wedge the tree against its lean or something like that
Well yes but if its a straight tree it will sit back on your bar when you cut through the back unless you use wedges or make the face cut deeper
Great vid man, the tree did exactly what you’d planned for it to do without any surprises and in felling, that’s as good as it gets so nothin wrong with that. Appreciate the clear, concise (and accurate) commentary without any bloviating or other various BS (how refreshing!). Plus that plunge cut, dude… putting on a clinic! You’ve obviously stabbed more than a few things with chainsaws. Good technique with strapping the stem as well so nicely done there too (though I tend to go big, using 5/16-3/8 chain with several wraps). I typically keep the back cut a little closer (lower) to the height of the face cut apex both when bore cutting or traditional, and prefer to leave a back strap of holding wood instead of cutting my way out like that. I feel pulling the saw back out of the cut and releasing the trigger from the outside is often a bit safer because the bar isn’t inside the cut as movement begins, and more importantly, it allows you to reposition your body further from the trunk because you no longer need to either dog the saw in or otherwise be close enough to create leverage with your body/arms. Often you can just throttle up and tap the trigger and she’ll release. Lastly, and this usually isn’t a big issue with heavy leaners because typically you’re not going to try to turn them laterally too far away from where they’re already inclined to go (bad idea for plenty of reasons), but a more open face (higher angle) wedge cut keeps the hinge intact through more of the tree’s decent arc, and therefore you’ve got “steering” almost all the way down. While the hinge wood is intact you’ve got control, once it’s not, you don’t. Whatever, not quibbling just throwing it out there. When the trees are on the ground, laying where you intended for them to be, and nobody is hurt or equipment damaged, you’ve done an excellent job. Period. Thanks again, great clip. Cheers.
Clever approach.
Never thought about the hazard of a hollow leaning tree being able to do unpredictable things.
Man that saw in the beginning cuts trees like butter. Thank u for helping Doss Farm on their property. After the fire they really needed a hand and God bless u. I can’t wait to see those boys running and playing through the hills of that land. U are the best. 🙏😊❤️
Nice job! I’ve been felling trees for years for firewood, not business, and you taught me new tricks! Thank you. That’s some beautiful wood in that tree. Don’t know why you got so many coulda, woulda, shoulda comments, you did a perfect job.
Thank you
I have been cutting trees for 52 years and love watching someone who has learned great techniques and applies them well be safe god bless
Thanks
Well done. Did you think about releasing the tree after the bore cut by cutting the trigger from the outside of the tree?
Yeah, I should’ve done that
Thanks for watching
Yes I would have put a wedge on each side them cut the trigger from the back
@@lesleyboeder1798 are you putting wedges into the bore cut then cutting slightly beneath missing your wedge?
@@lesleyboeder1798 That tree had a severe lean. It didn't need any wedges to push it over.
There is nothing wrong with you. You are a polite person who deserves to be honored for who you are and your excellent video. Thank you.
Thanks
Nicely done Brock! You are really good at walking us through your evaluation, expectations, and execution. And kudos for the safety equipment! Only thing I might mention is given the risk involved with a leaner I might have had someone with you at least until the tree was on the ground just in case...
That would be smart
At least a cell phone in your pocket. But a person with you is best.
@@RockhillfarmYT good job chap, just a word on the trigger release cut. It is always best to set your trigger, then pull your saw out, and cut it from outside of the tree. It just gives you a few extra inches of safety, and with it time, also its a lot easier to bring the saw with you that way. i apprieciate that you could not be totally confident regarding the integeraty of the hood that constituted the trigger. But a lot of information can be gleened from both how the saw is cutting, and how the sawdust looks. stay safe chap, greetings from wales U.K
ummmm, who was holding the camera?
@@jukeseyable good information! Do you know my friend Tim from the UK? He lives near Cornwall!🇬🇧🇺🇸☮✌🏻
You created that mess with perfection, sir. Well done. As long as no one gets hurt, and nothing (aside from the tree) is damaged.... SUCCESS! Thanks for posting.
Great video. Appreciate the comprehensive explanation of the plan, followed by the felling. Alot of chainsaw vs tree vids just go at it and can't always see what they are doing and rarely know why! Great job
Arborist here. For preventing the barber chair, you want to put that lower strap a lot lower than that, basically a few inches above your cut.
Watching the video again after a year and it even makes more sense now. VERY WELL DONE!
DOUG out
One of the best examples of this type of cut I have ever seen. Good job Hoss!
Thank you
You did a good job of explaining the bore cut. I understand why you placed it where you did. Thanks friend.
Thanks
100% the best example of how to fell a very dangerous tree!!! Hands down the best example I've ever see!!! 30+ years cutting trees, i definitely learned a great lesson, thank you sir!!!!
Good job! You could bring even more safety into this process if you stop your felling cut (when you cut from the bore cut outwards) about 5-6 inches before you get through. Then you pull out your saw and this holding strap of wood that is still holding the tree in place you cut inwards with maximum stretched arms as far away from your body as possible. Why is this safer? Because when the tree starts falling your saw is free and you can exit the danger zone immediately. When you review your video you will notice the time delay to pull your saw out of the cut. This little time delay you can eliminate with cutting a holding strap from outside.
Yeah, I generally do that, but I went too far on this one.
I've considered plunging as my first cut on a leaner but always done the face first.
Shall give it a go.
Plus I always leave a backstrap when tangled limbs are involved, like to prepare my balance well for that quick retreat!
Excellent video, the strapping always a good idea with even slightly rotten trees.
I never even considered strapping the tree a safety measure to combat a barber chair. Learn something new every day! Smart 👍🏾
I've seen it done with chains when straps aren't an option.
Done it many times with a chain and load binder.@@alankott3129
I would never in a million years thought to bore cut, then work the saw inside out on final cut. Very interesting and well produced video, thanks.
Well done video. Proper PPE. Easy to understand explanation for the cinching straps and the overall plan prior to cutting. Good execution of the saw work. Can’t think of anything negative to mention. Good job.
What a relief Negative Bob had nothing negative to say.
Today, I learned something that may save my life next year when I start cleaning up my estate! Thanks man!
One way to tell if it was rotten is to bore in from the back with the bar vertical, in the direction you want to fall it. Can be done below the falling cuts to possible preserve your log, if that's an issue. The method you used worked, but there are other options as well.
After making the under-cut, make two shallow back-cuts, one on each side that angle and meet at the back. Those 2 cuts would form a triangle with the front, or under-cut. Make sure the 2 angle cuts cut into the hinge area on each side about 10-15% of the tree diameter. This allows you to make the back-cut faster, and cutting into the sides of what will be the hinge also tends prevent barber chairs all by itself.
Also, make sure you saw cuts as fast as possible, if not the method you used may be best. Another method is to bore in from the rear and just leave wood on the sides for the final felling cut. Trees barber chair when too much hinge wood is left on hard leaning trees, and one reason too much wood is left is the saw can't cut enough of the wood quick enough, and the hinge is too thick and strong to break off or bend. I spent a lot of years falling timber, and probably have fell a quarter million trees in the NW, we had to deal with the same issues on occasion. I have seen big trees barber chaired 30' or 40' up.
I agree Brock. Constructive criticism in a nice way. Most of us like to learn, and there can be more than one way to get it done safely. An open discussion in the comment section prevails.
I love the tree bouncing back up that’s classic.
I watched this with hopes of being taught something I did not know and you did not disappoint. Thank you for sharing this. I actually learned much more than I expected to.
Glad to hear it
Actually this is a technique I was not at all familiar with. Personally I feel it was a textbook illustration and result. Fortunately it proceeded perfectly well and as you say predictable. Love it when a plan comes together !!!
Thanks.
I love watching these videos. I often wonder where they learned how drop a tree like is. In the 40 plus years I've run a chain I never did it this way. I always found, that starting cutting my notch on the right side of the tree as I face it made it easier to cut my notch. I start with the saw pointing at a right angle in the area were my notch starts. Then I draw my saw around the tree cutting to the depth I need. When the sight lines are pointing in the same direction I want to tree to got. I repeat by the same method to cut top angle to open the notch. Now I'm ready to do my back cut. I do a plunge parallel to my face cut. I cut toward the back on my face cut. If my bar isn't long enough I go around to the side where I started and insert the saw into the back cut I made from the other side. Lastly when I'm ready I cut the back strap that's holding the tree.
That sounds like what I did. The only difference was that I made the plunge cut first. I normally leave a trigger and cut it from the outside. On this one, I went as little too far
Had a hollow poplar leaning over a walking trail. It was about 30" at the base, and at the crest of a steep hill with no safe place to stand while cutting. I cut a square hole in the trunk, put a sandbag above and below a 6lb can of tannerite. Took care of it safely from 200yd away.
sounds like that was a blast!!!
That joke was the Bomb.
@Fred the 47th Shut up Fred, it was in the middle of the bush, ya goof.
Yeah baby
Excellent explanation of your plan. The tree came down beautifully, you are standing upright and talking at the end with no injuries. I think you did it perfectly with zero errors. Congratulations, using your head to work smarter and stay safe.
Thanks
I’ve never seen the ratchet strap technique before but it makes sense. Great Video!
I learned that trick from Mike Morgan in one of his videos.
That’s what I love about RUclips. it allows us to all share ideas and learn from each other
Thanks for watching
Good job. And well thought out. Thank you.
Just one little thing: At a chainsaw course we were taught never to put on chain break with the rear hand but always by rolling forward the back of the wrist of the front hand while keeping hold of the front grip, so as to prevent the possibility of slipping a hand past the chain break and accidentally touching the chain. So that is a habit I have tried to maintain.
The idea behind using a bore cut is so you can cut the backstrap last from OUTSIDE of the tree…cutting backwards from inside could trap or twist the saw out of your hands
I've never used a bore cut because I'm an inexperienced homeowner but I watch videos to learn and improve safety and I've never seen it cut from the inside out like this.
Me neither .
Have a large leaning Poplar to do very soon. Obvs plan to use this cut to drop it . Not the way round he did it though.
I have cut a lot of trees and I don't get why you would use a cut like this. You have to strap the tree because it could kick back and kill you. You also spend longer since you have to strap the tree and the cut uses a lot more muscle . I like to make my cuts and use a wedge to pound into the tree to hear it cracking if it's a large tree. That way I don't risk my saw and I can run away faster. Seems like the only reason to make a cut like this is for RUclips but feel free to explain to me why cause I am always willing to learn more.
I'm assuming inside out is a tree cutting term, but that doesn't make much sense, since it's not physically possible, but that's not important. Also, I know a backstrap as a primal cut in an animal. I'm very confused.
Putting the straps on the tree is not related to the type of cut I made. It’s a pro tip I learned. You can do that as a safety measure when you think the tree might barber chair.
A bore cut is the most common way to cut a tree by professional logger. That’s how they all do it. It gives you control of when the tree falls.
To understand why they do it this way you need to know what a barber chair is. Here is a good reference for you explaining it
How to Safely Cut Down a Big Tree - Traditional Cut VS Bore Cut
ruclips.net/video/QfGCDgp5e8A/видео.html
You clearly know what you are doing. An excellent job safely done. You make it look easy.
Nothing wrong, gave me some great ideas yet again for some dangerous trees on my property. Thank you
Thanks for watching
LMAO , you got me with the instant replay , I thought for a second she had bounced. Perfect execution , Plunge cut and straps were the only way to go into the unknown on such a big leaner.
You are a kind and polite dude. You did an awesome job. Thanks for posting this.
Thanks
I agree.
Good morning from a first time viewer. Here is my clinical take on the ratchet strap not being in the locked handled position. If the handle is not in the locked position it can fail at a much lower than rated specification. There are many known failures of ratchet straps being used while the handle is in the position for tightening and clearly not locked. The better safe than sorry heavy leaner bore cut was very well stated, if not entirely executed with poper forestry spec; super good enogh. The bore cut should have alerted you to the nature of the wood in the middle of the tree. Watch the sawdust and feel if the speed of the chain. If the saw goes crazy faster , then the insides are no good. Sucess to you and youre future posting.
Thanks for the feedback
You make a good point on the position of the straps. Also, you can tell by the sawdust, but by that point, I had no reason to change the way I was doing it.
I've used timber fallers for decades but never saw a man make a back cut like that. Please stay safe brother!
Well done! As someone who did commercial tree work for 4 years, I commend you on your preparation. Taking into account the mishaps that may occur, tree work isn’t dangerous it is hazardous though. Had the escape route ready lol
Hazardous escape routes always annoy me while watching bad cutting videos before anything else. So many people focus on the heavy leaning tree weight and don't realize it's the tiny little root sticking out that will end up getting you hurt or killed
@@Scott-fy7fm more often than not I’d take more time clearing my 45 then it took to put the tree over loll I’d use a 562 or 661 they put the chips down haha
Nice how you brought down the tree. As others said before me. With this kind of leaning trees I use the what we call "Sicherheitsfälltechnik mit Halteband" safety felling technique with retaining strap. You do as you did, except the last few inches, you switch pisition and cut the retaining strap from the outside. Said that you did a very good job!
Great job Brock, you did a good job thinking through this one then executing, still nerve racking not knowing the innards of an ole tree.
Thanks. I thought it was going to be more rotten on the inside
"There is nothing wrong with being polite..." LOL What a polite way of putting that. Nicely done
Overall great job. I really liked the bore cut to set up your face cut and straps to help with integrity.
The one thing I would have done differently was instead of completing the back cut from the bore is I would have come in more standard from the back an inch or so below the bore cut to release the back. Would prevent that back peel as well as put you in a better cutting position when it fell if it were to twist or do something unexpected. Learned to cut leaning alder and cottonwood that way.
ageed..Buckin Billy Ray would not approve of this method eh
A friend used to say
Say what you mean but you don’t have to be mean when you say it.
I think you did a good job, now I need to learn the terminology of a tree feller. ?
I have cut down a few hundred trees on MY property but nothing weird or too dangerous. And nothing over 30” across. I’m sure I did a lot of stuff wrong, but just was lucky. Now I’m 64 and my health doesn’t permit me to do any tree cutting, but I still like to dream about doing it. I also love watching someone do what they are good at.
Awesome! I learned a few things here, carefully and logically plan the cut. A safe felling is the goal. Good job!
Outstanding! Great job. Great explanations. Great use of physics.
Those leaning trees tend to have too much stress to be a good saw log for the mill. Nice job.
that was freaking beautiful and perfect. thanks for the education. im facing almost the exact feat brother and you gave me the push i needed. bless you
That’s great, truly is. I like this video and the guy who made it but please, look into other bore cutting tutorials. This worked here but is fairly different from every other lesson I’ve ever seen. Husqvarna did a fantastic video on the subject.
@@gwmgbwi thankyou. i will.
I always wonder about demonstrators with brand new equipment.
Who are you talking about? Everything I use in the video is stuff I bought myself. The chainsaw at that time was over a year old and heavily used. Even my helmet had broken straps on it so it wasn’t really protecting me anymore.
Sounds like complaining for the sake of complaining
Nice explanation and walkthrough of your planned cut. Looked like a perfect execution (of the tree...) Thanks for bringing us along.
"There's nothing wrong about being polite"... should be at the top of every comment section on youtube!
I hope you didn't get poison ivy from the vines at 9:08. When it drops like that, you did things right. I was surprised it wasn't partly rotted.
That wasn't poison ivy. It's Virgina creeper, and is not poisonous.
The old saying is:
Leaves of five, let it thrive
Leaves of three, turn and flee
@@throngcleaver At 6:50, I see both. I saw him wipe his face, and had to rewind to make sure it wasn’t the same hand that brushed the PI.😅
@sc100ott You're right, that side of the tree has poison ivy. He knows the difference and wouldn't grab it like he did the creeper, unless he was going to rinse his hands before spreading it to the saw or take a leak. 🤣
Watcher from Doss Farms, thank you for helping Chad and Rae.
It looks like that tree may have been hit by lightning at some point. Your cuts lined up perfectly, and great editing btw!
I was thinking lightning or possibly taking heavy physical damage while it was a small tree
I love using the rewind effect on something falling.
Thanks for watching
@@RockhillfarmYT I liked the strap idea for added safety, had never seen that before. I was thinking that maybe a wedge tapped temporarily into the plunge cut on the far side of the tree would make it easier to line up the notch cut. On a larger tree, it's not visible unless you stop and walk nearly to the other side. Maybe a dumb idea, but I'm just a fellar, not a feller.
Anything to help you see the cut is good
Love the feller jokes😂
My daughter isn’t finding them funny
@@RockhillfarmYT The tree feller gets the big bucks, the tree fellar gets to run the wood chipper.
@@RockhillfarmYT Not that it matters now but just for the sake of discussion and maybe future observation. That section of the tree where the wound or "rot" was, looks like the scar left from a discarded co-dominate leader. When the tree was younger it looks like it developed two trunks (leaders), the lean on the section that remained was due to the two leaders growing away from each other, which most likely caused the weaker leader to fall at some point and leaving the scar. In the video at about 1:20 you can see how the wood around the scar is a different color and rounded, relatively smooth, that's called wound wood and is a part of compartmentalization, the natural process of a tree sealing off a damaged section of itself.
Great video, I liked how you explained your logic and then executed your plan exactly as you predicted, I call that a success.
Well done! Had never seen or heard of cutting down a tree using a bore-cut like that. Fell perfectly. Thank you for the detailed walk-through.
Not bad. A couple things I would recommend. First, on ANY tree, but especially on hazard trees like this, your back cut (and thus your plunge cut) should always be even with the vertex of your notch, never above it. Second, I would have put the straps (or better yet, a third strap) a lot closer to the top of your notch.
I’m interested to hear why you say that.
Every video I’ve ever seen has stated that your back cut needs to be higher than the bottom of the face cut.
The reason given makes perfect sense, and I have examples of why. If something goes wrong and the butt tries to kick back at you, it can’t because you’re back cut is higher and it will catch the tree right there.
I remember watching one video where a tree got hung up and was stuck up in the air with the butt still on the log and the Feller mentioned that if his bat cut had been parallel that tree could’ve shot off backward
@@RockhillfarmYT if the tree is trying to kick back at you, you did something wrong.
The reason you don't cut above the notch is because the tree won't hinge properly. You'll have a greater chance of either barber chairing or of the tree snapping before you're ready.
I've been trained to work on dangerous trees.
I had to go in and clean up after someone who cut about 6" above the notch, and the wind took the tree exactly the opposite direction they wanted the tree to go, taking out power lines and a pole.
I got an emergency call to come fix the problem where someone started to make their cut above the notch, and the tree started to fall back, pinching their saw. He got lucky. If he had cut another inch or so, the tree would have snapped backwards, and it would have flattened the house where the guy's aunt was sitting, watching him work.
@@garrisonaw The problem with making the back cut level with the bottom of the notch is that the tree may break the hinge and slip backward off the trunk as soon as it's cut, especially if the tree leans or gets hung up on other trees. Making the back cut slightly higher prevents this.
@@wizardsuth It's your choice, obviously. I'm just giving you what I learned in professional arborist training. And when I worked for Davey tree service, it was enough of a safety violation to earn you an official warning, but not serious enough to get suspended.
I think there is a reason for both methods. Before the angle of the undercut was tighter. Nowadays the angle should be around 60 degrees so that the tree almost can reach the ground before the undercut nips.
Good job and I liked the way you explained your reasoning for cutting the way you did.It showed up nicely in the way it fell.
Good morning Rock. That was a very intelligent explanation of a successful project. Love it 🇯🇲🇯🇲🙏🙏
Thank you sir
Great Cutting,,, Like how you STOPPED and showed exactly what was going on with the hinge...
Thanks
I have done some work with trees and logs . And yes , that was a very dangerous tree to cut . I think you done everything right . Good job. I had a buddy cut a tree like that couple years ago , and he had a trip to the emergency room , and stitches . He was very lucky , cause the trunk exploded on him . Good job .
Thanks for sharing
Outstanding strategic approach to felling that tree. Great job.
The only problem I have is at the 8min mark you are touching what looks like poison ivy, lol!!!
I saw that too... heck I even look at poison ivy and I seem to get it! Tends to make the ivy jump out at you when you see it lol
I never look for poison ivy or pay attention to it because 41 years living in the country and I’ve never gotten a rash from it
I guess you can be somewhat immune to it
@@RockhillfarmYT out here in California we have poison oak. Same "active ingredient" but looks a little different. Some people never get for many years and then one day they do. Just FYI.
Brock the good thing about you & your antics is that you do your best to get & keep our interest. I feel that you would do well explaining paint drying, Just get a quick drying paint.
Thanks
Well that was kind of cool. Never saw anyone cut a tree from the center back. Like the way you did the hinge. I am still impressed with the bar on your saw. You could almost sit on your tractor seat and cut from there. Two thumbs up.
90% of trees can be cut with the standard procedure but in certain situations you need a trick or two up your sleeve
The first time I used that 36 inch bar it was intimidating but now it doesn’t seem like a big deal
Thank you for watching Rod
@@RockhillfarmYT love watching your videos. Had my 1025r out yesterday. Dugout some old tree stumps. Put about 5 hours on it playing in the dirt. Had a good time untill a massive rain storm ended my digging..
Sounds fun
Thank u for a good explanation, i just bought 7000 square meters of forest and put it down , and i need to educate me in all ways because i have a lot of respect for the danger of cutting trees,
1 you cut too close to the trigger point. You should have left about 2 inches at the end of the back cut, pulled the saw and used the tip of the bar to cut the trigger. Also you could have used the hammer and whacked the tree to to test the tree for a hollow spot. All in all you did a good job on a dangerous tree and I'm glad it worked out safely for you. One more tip. Personally I would have used a chain for strength instead of straps just in case it tried to split
Thanks. I will definitely use this technique the next time I take down a leaner. Which is pretty often recently with all this heavy winds and rain.
I almost always bore cut unless the tree needs wedged over.
Just start the Saw at parallel and then rotate it in so it doesn’t kick back
How to Safely Cut Down a Big Tree - Traditional Cut VS Bore Cut
ruclips.net/video/QfGCDgp5e8A/видео.html
Well, that was a joy to watch. And I learned something new about the straps!
Thanks for sharing!
Thank you for the great explanation of this. I don't cut much down but I seek knowledge of all types. You did a great job!
Great video. I liked your dialog. Explaining everything you’re doing really helps. I’m no professional saw man but I understand what some of the other people in the comments are saying about cutting the back instead of going from the inside out. I do believe that if you’re not rushing things, you’ll be just fine with an inside out trigger cut. Great job!
The tree is down, you ain't bleeding, and the saw still works. I'd say you did great!
Thank for sharing! I did exactly what you explained with a leaning old fruit tree in south of France, and it worked well.
That looked so well executed and safe too! Most important thing!
Awesome video buddy
I have 52 acres I’m slowly clearing, lots of leaning & dying trees.
3:14 Tree Hugger! Good video. Interesting, thoughtful approach to felling this hazardous tree. Worked really well.
Good job! Thank you for the solid instruction. Like your reminder for ppl to provide their opinions in a nice way.
Great video and super explanation. Every time i started to wonder of you were going to address or explain something, lo and behold you stopped and made sure to talk about it. Thanks for making and sharing this!
Thanks
Nice to see a pro talking sense and doing a proper job on RUclips
Thank you
Nice job, will apply this next time I have a hard leaner, thanks.
I like the way it bounced right back up again the first time. But then you jumped right in there and showed it who's boss.
A lot of nice dark heartwood in there!
Cut it as many times as needed
Good info, thanks for posting. I have a lot of trees to fell this year and some are leaners.
I really appreciate your instructions. I've learned good things from you and the comments. Thankyou for posting. Stay safe out there everybody
I love the anti barber chair strap strategy. First time seeing it but it makes a lot of sense!
each technique, including the amount of holding wood, looked perfect and went according to plan. safety first.
your reward is a healthy body with no injuries.
i use bore cuts on all large trees with lean or signs of decay.
Thanks for the feedback
I know nothing about arborist stuff, but it seems like a good reasonable plan, I liked that you strapped the tree
Thanks