Center weighted or spot metering will only be of use if you point at the subject and lock-in the exposure (half-shutter press) before recomposing. If you're willing to do that, then any mode might work for you technically. You have to weigh the pros and cons of each type and YOU must do the work to figure out if the final exposure is correct or not. For example, if it's backlit, perhaps none will work and you'll need to manage the exposure manually in "M" mode or by using exposure compensation.
@ramcasty Thanks. There is unfortunately no set formula for a correct exposure and the compensation you need to give varies per scene based on what you're shooting and what you're trying to achieve artistically. There are some starting points that people use like the "Sunny 16" rule. Google that to see what I mean.
hi there! Great DSLR educational video! But is there a way you could give us the average formula on DSLR setting on light metering (eg. how to set on this kind of lightning situation ISO, f-Stops,aperture & etc)? I hope you know what i mean, thanks a lot!
I don't exactly understand the issue where your camera turns the photo of a white paper to grey. Doesn't that seem like a white balance issue ? I understand that white balance issues are caused by the temperature of light. So in this video, is the sensor causing the white paper to show up as grey (assuming you have already adjusted for white balance) ? If so, why do sensors do that ?
phoeNYkx Yes for sure. If you really have to nail the shot (and the space between bracketed shots doesn't create an issue for catching the action), then try bracketing. It's like insurance. You can also merge those shots together manually or with HDR-capable software to create a higher dynamic range in a single photo. I find shooting in RAW gives me enough latitude to adjust exposure so I rarely bracket unless my intention is to combine the exposures during post-processing
It doesn't have an effect if you lock it all in, including ISO. If your camera shows an exposure meter scale in the viewfinder, however, it will still use it to highlight that you might be over or under. If you don't lock ISO it's still used.
Spot metering on the person's face is a good starting point given the light in the scene will just confuse your sensor into underexposing. There's no right or wrong... just look at the results and decide what you like.
Perhaps some insight on lenses? How to choose them, and how to make the best out of them... Maybe you could even cover some optics and explain how the lens is actually built :) Keep it up with your channel, you've got great teaching skills which are really helpful for us beginners!
Thanks. My own knowledge on the deep technical details of lenses is limited for example so I can only go so far. With this series in particular, I looked back at 2 years of self-teaching via web articles and RUclips videos and asked myself what essential knowledge I wish I had early on. The key was not to go too deep while still giving a foundation for true understanding (not just memorizing).
White balance doesn't affect your exposure. Metering is about a camera helping you figure out the right exposure and thus the quantity of light that should be permitted to hit the sensor for a given scene. White balance is about the tint of the photo (warm or cool tones).
From iso.org: "Because 'International Organization for Standardization' would have different acronyms in different languages (IOS in English, OIN in French for Organisation internationale de normalisation), our founders decided to give it the short form ISO. ISO is derived from the Greek isos, meaning equal. Whatever the country, whatever the language, we are always ISO." It's a word 'iso', not an acronym 'I-S-O'. Think isometric or isosceles.
Miley onDisney in his other videos he refers to it as “iso” as well as I.S.O. We all know it’s actually “iso” smarty pants. Quit nitpicking and just enjoy these amazing videos!!
Awesome tutorial. One of the best video on fundamentals of photography.
Thank you very much master for your time. I did try to look on the "Sunny 16" rule and really its a great starting point as you say...
Center weighted or spot metering will only be of use if you point at the subject and lock-in the exposure (half-shutter press) before recomposing. If you're willing to do that, then any mode might work for you technically. You have to weigh the pros and cons of each type and YOU must do the work to figure out if the final exposure is correct or not. For example, if it's backlit, perhaps none will work and you'll need to manage the exposure manually in "M" mode or by using exposure compensation.
thank you so much for the series of tutorial :)
it really helps me to understand more about the basics!
Nice Tutorial! We want more from you on the other expect of Photography.
Beautifully explained ...thank you
thank you for the videos
they are really awesome. i feel like i know much more now.
please make more of them.
You're welcome! I wish I had more time to create more. I might again return to it if there's demand.
@ramcasty Thanks. There is unfortunately no set formula for a correct exposure and the compensation you need to give varies per scene based on what you're shooting and what you're trying to achieve artistically. There are some starting points that people use like the "Sunny 16" rule. Google that to see what I mean.
I'm glad you enjoyed them!
hi there! Great DSLR educational video! But is there a way you could give us the average formula on DSLR setting on light metering (eg. how to set on this kind of lightning situation ISO, f-Stops,aperture & etc)? I hope you know what i mean, thanks a lot!
Heya, Nice Video.. What is the best Metering Mode for Rule of Third Composition?
I don't exactly understand the issue where your camera turns the photo of a white paper to grey. Doesn't that seem like a white balance issue ? I understand that white balance issues are caused by the temperature of light. So in this video, is the sensor causing the white paper to show up as grey (assuming you have already adjusted for white balance) ?
If so, why do sensors do that ?
Is shooting in bracketing mode a good idea to choose a correct exposure later on?
phoeNYkx Yes for sure. If you really have to nail the shot (and the space between bracketed shots doesn't create an issue for catching the action), then try bracketing. It's like insurance. You can also merge those shots together manually or with HDR-capable software to create a higher dynamic range in a single photo. I find shooting in RAW gives me enough latitude to adjust exposure so I rarely bracket unless my intention is to combine the exposures during post-processing
How does metering mode affects exposure in the manual mode, where we determine the aperture, ISO and shutter speed ??
It doesn't have an effect if you lock it all in, including ISO. If your camera shows an exposure meter scale in the viewfinder, however, it will still use it to highlight that you might be over or under. If you don't lock ISO it's still used.
+Philippe Dame So to take a picture of a person standing against a bright background
what would you suggest spot metering and ... ??
Spot metering on the person's face is a good starting point given the light in the scene will just confuse your sensor into underexposing. There's no right or wrong... just look at the results and decide what you like.
+Philippe Dame Thanks a lot :)
will surely going to try this...
I probably should have but beginners rarely have one (or care to get one and use it regularly). I personally don't use one. Thx for the suggestion.
You're such an awesome teacher. Why don't you create more content?
Thanks Ana! What topic would you like covered?
Perhaps some insight on lenses? How to choose them, and how to make the best out of them... Maybe you could even cover some optics and explain how the lens is actually built :)
Keep it up with your channel, you've got great teaching skills which are really helpful for us beginners!
Thanks. My own knowledge on the deep technical details of lenses is limited for example so I can only go so far. With this series in particular, I looked back at 2 years of self-teaching via web articles and RUclips videos and asked myself what essential knowledge I wish I had early on. The key was not to go too deep while still giving a foundation for true understanding (not just memorizing).
Oh, don't worry. I'm sure you know plenty about other stuff to teach. Just be sure to exploit that great talent of yours!
Doesn't custom white balance take care of this? if not, why so?
White balance doesn't affect your exposure. Metering is about a camera helping you figure out the right exposure and thus the quantity of light that should be permitted to hit the sensor for a given scene. White balance is about the tint of the photo (warm or cool tones).
Why didn't you suggest a gray card?
From iso.org: "Because 'International Organization for Standardization' would have different acronyms in different languages (IOS in English, OIN in French for Organisation internationale de normalisation), our founders decided to give it the short form ISO. ISO is derived from the Greek isos, meaning equal. Whatever the country, whatever the language, we are always ISO."
It's a word 'iso', not an acronym 'I-S-O'. Think isometric or isosceles.
Miley onDisney in his other videos he refers to it as “iso” as well as I.S.O. We all know it’s actually “iso” smarty pants. Quit nitpicking and just enjoy these amazing videos!!