+Tejas Shenoy They do perform much the same function. Relays are a much older tech, going back to the 1830s, and it's cool to see their uses back then, and still today (I've used them for automatic generator starters in solar systems.) A MOSFET requires very little current to keep the drain to source conducting, whereas a relay requires you to keep a coil energized, which is basically an electromagnet, and so that would require more current. I'm still new to MOSFETs but I've read of frequencies in the hundreds of kilohertz and even megahertz which I'm pretty sure you can get with relays. PS. If you want people to be able to reply to you then you may have to go to your Google+ account settings and set "Who can comment on your public posts?" to Anyone.
Excellent video. I noticed you have the load connected between the drain and the neg rail, usually you would have the load connected between the POS rail and the source of the MOSFET. The way you show clearly works, but usually results in lower voltage across the load and possibly switching problems. I normally use a 100 ohm to 470 ohm resistor on the gate, and from the gate to the source(NEG), I would use a pull down resistor of 270k to 1M for reliable/fast turning off. :-) Keep in mind you can also use a "Logic-Level" MOSFET. They require very low voltage to completely turn on. Some as low as 1.5V.
+electronicsNmore The battery is backward in my circuit diagram; it was an error made when going from paper to computer drawing. The actual working circuit has the load between the battery positive and the drain. I guess not everyone is noticing the "Oops" in the video thumbnail or has annotations on. Maybe I should have uploaded a revised video after all. I tried with a resistor on the gate but it didn't make any noticeable difference, and from my research I couldn't find a reason for it. I ordered new MOSFETs yesterday with lower turn on voltages, though the H-bridge circuit I currently have in mind won't need the lower voltage anyway as it'll be using the drill battery.
+electronicsNmore Between the gate and source I just tried different resistances (1M, 470k, 1k, 220, 27) in place of the 10M and in all cases the it ran when the remote was turned on. It didn't work at all with 10 ohms or dead short between the gate and source, the latter being totally expected. I thought I'd tried 1k between the gate and source last week and could have sworn it hadn't worked. Oh well.
I would not upload a revised video. You did a great job on this one. I must have missed the "oops". The logic level mosfets are super handy to have on hand. Not every mosfet uses gate resistors, but most of the time they do. The purpose is to help prevent interference, voltage spikes, etc for reliable switching. I would definitely use resistors on the gates to balance things out when using mosfets in parallel using one source to trigger them.
Hi, I have been working with the TO-220 packages on breadboards (like your MOSFET here) for decades. A technique I have been using (to greatly improve the TO-220 to breadboard connection)--AND it prevents VERY annoying damage to the breadboard which causes many mysterious malfunctions, After scraping any oxidation off the three pin's surfaces--AND EDGES-- with an exacto knife, I use a pair of needle-nose pliers to bend the pins 90 degrees!! If you are familiar with the inside metal of breadboards, you will appreciate value of this technique. I just thought I should share this: So...hope it helps... --dALE
+dale nassar Thanks for the tip, dALE! Now that you mention it I can see how you can potentially have bad connections with TO-220 and breadboards, especially reused ones like the one I used.
get 2 mosfets make zvs driver and have fun induction heating and arcing with flyback transformer. note everytime you experimentally start the circuit you have to do it trough 12 v headlight bulb in order to make sure the system works. i recommend 4 irf540n in twin groups. they handle hours of mistakes when good heatsinked
I know you're a big fan of recycling and reusing stuff, but this is a case you're creating more work and making the design unreliable in your efforts to salvage parts. This is a really good time to look up the datasheets and find a MOSFET with a turn-on voltage suitable for the truck's signal. You should also look at finding one with less resistance so you don't need that huge heatsink, which probably would not work enclosed inside a BB-8 ball. Also, is the truck giving you an analog signal proportional to speed, or is it a digital on/off signal. If you're doing a digital control then the MOSFET is a good choice, but there are other devices more suitable for analog signals than MOSFETS.Looking forward to the new BB-8 droid.
+USWaterRockets I didn't want to buy MOSFETs until I was sure I knew what to buy, hence this learning experiment. I'll definitely buy them for the next circuit since I don't have enough. From the comments below, I've since learned that this circuit is backward even, so the experiment was a success :). Regarding the heatsink, that was just a precaution. I didn't do a finger test to see if it heats up. The truck puts out flat DC.
+RimstarOrg FWIW, that heatsink was seriously overkill for the transistor and for the load. you could probably have used a much smaller heatsink, or stuck a glob of clay or similar on the transistor (tacky, but it works ok IME). commercial TO-220 heatsinks also exist, but have different properties. FWIW, I often use Darlingtons due to them being cheaper than MOSFETs. like, parts are expensive, one spends prices like several $1 transistors to run an $10 motor. but, sadly, smaller/cheaper motors are really weak...
I've always been kind of confused about the distinction between MOSFETs and BJTs. I think one thing I heard was about current sensitive vs voltage sensitive. Is one better than the other for switching, or do they fill different roles?
+radioactivated the gamer different roles mostly. MOSFETs are voltage controlled, and slightly better for digital switching, as they have a lower voltage-drop and generate a little less heat in this case. however, they are more expensive and are destroyed if the voltage goes too high (even if very briefly). if used for analog, they will generate considerably more heat (you generally do not want to use these for analog, use BJTs instead if you need analog). because of their lower heat, they can be used for switching a fair bit of current (such as using PWM to drive a motor). BJTs are current controlled, and generate a little more heat for digital switching, but less for analog (though, digital switching still generates less heat than using them for analog). generally, they can also take a little more abuse without being permanently damaged. using them may require taking consideration of their base-current and gain behavior (hFE, etc...). essentially, the base current is multiplied by a curve to get the collector current. Darlington BJTs are a compromise, basically with very high gain and behavior more like a digital switch. they generate more heat and are lower power than MOSFETs, but are typically also cheaper. IME, they are more easily damaged by voltage spikes than normal BJTs, but have otherwise generally proven fairly reliable. you can also use normal BJTs in a Darlington configuration, using an NPN main transistor with either a small NPN or PNP transistor to get a high gain.
hi andrew here I was making my am christel radio by watching you videos and I did everything right. and the coils also it still does not work do you have more information on thes problems
I see what looks like 4 mosfets in a two speed RC car. I saw cmos on them. I am looking to use them to turn on a lighting system in an RC plane from servo. Any chance the signal wire straight from servo can activate the bias? Does the first part sound like the correct piece? Where do I look up parts online to match what I salvage? Please and thanks.
how did you manage to handle "HIGH CURRENT" drill motor with a mosfet that have 2.0Ohm Rds(on) and 2.7A Id ? that mosfet was designed for higher voltage,get a mosfet like irf3205 which designed for low voltage
+Tonny Cassidy Good question. It's been pointed out here that I had the MOSFET backward (as I said in the video, I'm new to MOSFETs.) Maybe the answer lies there. Anyway, I'll be uploading a revised video once I've had a chance to redo the circuit.
+RimstarOrg try low voltage mosfet, most high voltage mosfet high Rds(on) which is 2Ohm in this case ,you will lose some power from that,as far as i know ,it will act like having a 2Ohm resistor in series ,try low voltage mosfet like IRFZ44N (which can handle 44A) or IRF3205 (can handle up to 125A) ,using high voltage mosfet in low voltage application is not as efficient as using low voltage mosfet on low voltage,low voltage mosfet usually have low Rds(on) down to 1.7milliohm on some mosfet ,
Is your schematic right? Generally the source connects to the ground for most switching applications, and the drain connects to the device to be powered. (in other words the MOSFET should be on the LOW side, while the load on the HIGH side.) In that case, the MOSFET's resistance is directly controlled by the voltage on the gate relative to the ground. (since the source is connected there.) The way that schematic is laid out right now, the MOSFET will only turn on when the voltage on the gate is about 5V higher than the drill battery in this case, or Vcc. And when it is less than that, the MOSFET does not saturate and actually becomes a crude buffer amplifier (a device which has high input impedance and low output impedance) google "MOSFET source follower" it is sort of analogous to the "emitter follower".
+Power Max I may have it wrong. I knew that the gate had to be higher than source, hence the position of the rc receiver and the bias batteries. It puzzled me that the arrow in the symbol was pointing the way it was and yet the drain was on the negative side. I thought that the circuits I looked at had the drain positive w.r.t. the source, yet I can't seem to find any that have it that way now that I'm looking again! I'll probably be removing this video and revising it. BTW Is the music too loud for you? If not, what kind listening device do you have (high quality, low quality, earbuds, headphones, ...)? A lot of folks have been telling me they weren't aware I even used music so I turned it up this time.
+RimstarOrg Lol I definitely noticed the music was louder. I honestly prefer either a different track or have the volume lowered as I personally found it a bit distracting, but that's just me. :) I know how you feel, I have got a few mean comments on my latest video about the music making people's ears bleed and other peoples head explode :P (the spoiled youtube community expects that the free content they get has to be perfect!) The current configuration *is* valid, but it is generally used where you want to either make a crude voltage regulator or a buffer amplifier. The way it works is simple. Suppose you have a capacitor at 0V, and the MOSFET on the high side, and the MOSFET turn-on voltage is 7V: when 12V Vcc is applied to the drain, and the gate is pulled up also to 12V Vcc, The voltage between the source and the gate (Vgs) is 12V, turning the MOSFET on really hard, which causes the capacitor to charge really quickly. However as it approaches 12V-7V, or 5V, the Vgs voltage gets smaller and smaller, until the MOSFET begins to turn off, or fully off eventually and the capacitor stops charging. You can see how this creates a really basic voltage regulator, as when a load is attached to the capacitor, the capacitor discharges, causing the MOSFET to turn more ON, therefore regulating the voltage to around-about 5V!
+RimstarOrg Also as a general tip, I recommend formatting schematics so that the Vcc connections are higher, and ground or negative connections are lower, as that makes it easier to tell what connects where. Generally it is simpler to draw voltage nodes describing what point connects to what part of the power supply, and eliminates some of the wiring shown in the schematic. (the disadvantage is that this makes it a bit more difficult for people not used to looking at real schematics, preferring a more visual style wiring diagram)
+Power Max I guess I could do a compromise, try to keep Vcc connection on top and ground or negative below but keep all wiring for people not used to looking at real schematics, no terminating ground symbols.
+RimstarOrg taking a look at your circuit a bit more carefully, I realized that actually you just have the 12V drill battery polarity backwards, and no voltage applied to the RC truck! I originally thought you were using the MOSFET in the source follower (common drain) configuration, but if that was the case, then the drain would be connected to +12V and the source to one node on the drill. The way it is configured right now, the motor spin endlessly because the internal parasitic diode is always forward biased. (making it impossible to turn off the MOSFET) www.nlvocables.com/images/solar_project/mosfet_symbol.gif If you do decide to make a revision to the video, I recommend also including a flyback diode on the drill. Afrotechmods has some great documentation on this. The motor is a inductive load, so when you PWM the gate, or turn the motor on and off, you will get enormous voltage spikes which can cause the MOSFET to fail. (generally there failure mode is a puncture in the thin insulating silicon oxide layer on the gate, causing the gate to be shorted to either the drain or source, and the MOSFET itself stuck partially on permanently.) I would also recommend using a different MOSFET, as that one is no where near ideal for high current applications. It has an ON state resistance of 2 ohms, and a maximum current rating of 2A. I think those drill motors can pull upwards to 10A under load :O
great video...I have an old drill and I want to use it for pulling HDMIcable if possible can you explain how to use it? with DPST switch without (remote control ) thanks in advance
It worked, that's my take away from the vid and, certainly congrats are in order when working with new devices. For sound, no problems here, was just general b/ground music. External JBL single speaker (lol different huh). A tip for heat dissipation in the final design - I use a coin superglued to the back. USA 1c for small transistors, up to a quarter for MOSFETs that are not running constantly.
It's impossible for me to say without seeing the schematic for the receiver and doing some measurements to confirm how it works. Personally, after going this approach, I since switched to using a HC-05 bluetooth receiver and a phone for the transmitter - much easier, works better and uses less power, though it depends on your application. Here's my video about it ruclips.net/video/5EuI9lBtC3I/видео.html.
nice informative video again. but your music this time didn't let me hear your narration. so i just muted it. man i believe honestly for such type of videos, we don't need music in the background, just keep it simple :)
+SAMIMY Thanks for letting me know. What kind of headphones do you have (high quality, low quality, earbuds, headphones, ...)? A lot of people have been telling me they didn't even know I had music, so I turned it up this time. With that, and other problems folks are pointing out, I get the feeling I'll be removing this video and reworking it.
+RimstarOrg both, i played your video using my desktop multimedia amplifier it was too loud, then i switched it off and used headphones (audio technica ath-ad700x), still the same problem. the music is distracting. so here is a simple solution: " just don't add music, your narration is fair enough and sounds good with the natural sound of the video"
+SAMIMY Thanks for testing. I guess I remain puzzled at how some people didn't know I used music, with the exception of some recent ones. I use music because I find just the sound of my voice can get dull after a while, especially for "lecture" videos. For short, fun videos, the music just adds to the fun. I'll experiment with it.
+RimstarOrg The reason people didnt know you had music was because it was at the perfect volume. It was just loud enough to keep people engaged but soft enough to not distract from your voice. Music in these type of videos should be used as an ambiance rather than a part you can hear. An analogy could be like dinner music its just there to cover white noise not drown out the conversation.
+ninjakiwi1324 Hmmm... That just might explain it. Thanks. It sure would be good if that's the reason - then that would mean what I was doing was all along was fine.
Seems you are a pro . I’m trying to remote control a 350w brushless Motor Controller with remote controller . I got a 4 channel ppm Receiver . If I connect this receiver to a throttle signal will that work ? What do you think ??
Just a little something I noticed, it looks like the drill battery is connected the wrong way round in the schematic, I don't know if anyone else has pointed that out.
RimstarOrg Might also be a good idea to put a diode 1n5400 series backwards across the motor to quench forward emf. Also you could eliminate the 3 aa cells instead drawing the switching voltage from the battery pack A TTL level low resistance MOSFET from a scrap motherboard may not need any heat sinking. Also add a 100nf capacitor across the motor to suppress radio noise.
+Nick Hill I'm hoping the need for the 3 AA cells will go away once I reverse the battery. I hadn't thought of the cap for suppressing radio noise. Thanks.
+CoolDudeClem I confirmed that the error was in the direction of the drill battery only in the circuit diagram in the video. The actual one that I demonstrate and the paper one on my desk are correct. The error happened when I drew it on the computer somehow.
+RimstarOrg Cool. With battery polarity in diagram, the protection diode in that model of transistor would have been forward biased turning motor on all the time. Someone mentioned a darlington, but that would create a 1.2 volt drop, which a MOSFET will avoid if the gate is driven with sufficient voltage. An IRLI2203G is a great choice since it has 30v Vdss and an on resistance of 0.015 ohm with 5Vgs. This shouldn't need a heatsink. If you want to get rid of the batteries you'd want to make sure the remote control shuts down completely if Vbatt (Vgs) gets below 3.5v since the MOSFET resistnce will increase significantly when the gate voltage is lower than that leading to increased dissipation. If you want to shrink the batteries a couple of coin cells would last since the curent draw is very small and 6v gate voltage is nice.
+Andrew Kimble I see you found my troubleshooting video. Make sure you have a long straight wire as the antenna. The longer it is the better is will work.
Andrew here i put magnet wire around the am loop antenna wood that work for the am loop antenna or no. I went to a yard sale he did not have the wire he only had the am loop what do you think
+Nicholas Lenzo I guess that could be it but I can't be 100% sure unless Steve tells me so I'll settle for your answer unless Steve says otherwise, thanks for the reply though :)
+Brandon Fisher Yup, I disconnected the truck motor. If I end up using that remote control truck in the BB-8 then I'll eventually dig the receiver circuit out from it altogether.
You might be able to. Your DC power source would need to provide the right voltage and enough current to power the motor but you'd also need to make sure that the drill doesn't draw too much current from the power source such that it damages it.
sir can you please tell me what are the various components present on an 30 A brushless ESC whether resistor's, capacitor etc.I cant find it anywhere.please
Yes, that's right. Note that there's an error in the diagram which I mention in the description for the video. The drill battery in the circuit diagram is drawn backwards by accident. The plus sign beside the drill battery should be a minus and the minus sign beside the drill battery should be a plus sign. That also means some of the line colors are wrong.
Could you not just reduce the gate resistor so that the 3v (from the toy) yields the desired 1.4uA gate current...or sufficient drain current from the drill battery to run the drill motor at 2A? --dAlE
+dale nassar I don't have any resistor between the toy/batteries and gate. I do have the 10Mohm resistor between the gate and source though. I just tried different resistances (1M, 470k, 1k, 220, 27) in place of the 10M and in all cases the it ran when the remote was turned on _and_ I had the 3 AA batteries, but not _without_ the 3 AA batteries. It didn't work at all with 10 ohms or dead short between the gate and source, the latter being totally expected.
Sorry for the consecutive messages, but after reading, I think a better way of saying "bend the pins 90 degrees" would be "TWIST the pins 90 degrees" --dALE
+Ballistic RC I don't want to use a lot of current to keep the drill on. A relay requires current in order to keep the switch closed. A MOSFET requires a very tiny amount of current and functions using voltage alone. I prefer voltage with very little current because this will all be enclosed in a BB-8 droid and I don't want to have to replace/recharge batteries frequently.
I have a 18v motor I want to use in my rc rock crawler it has a esc that works off 7-12 v so my question is can the speed controller control the output voltage of the mosfet?
+Andrew Kimble To connect them in parallel connect one side of both capacitors together and connect the other side of both capacitors together. Then treat the whole thing as a single capacitor and connect it to the rest of the circuit.
I didn't test this circuit under a load. After doing this I switched to using H-bridge circuits which now use two drill motors to run my BB-8 droid ruclips.net/video/BCXH4AN2aog/видео.html. The detail for that circuit are here rimstar.org/science_electronics_projects/bb-8_v2_drive_electronics.htm.
So positive goes straight from drill to battery ... And negative goes to the mosfet mid pin > drain... then source out to resistor connected to gate out connected to drill battery with a branch off to AA batteries connected to what ???? input & output ??? on rc car and then branched back to neg drill battery line ...
That depends entirely on your RC car circuit. I should really just delete this video anyway. Here's the warning message in the video description in case you missed it "WARNING - The drill battery in the circuit diagram is drawn backwards by accident. The plus sign beside the drill battery should be a minus and the minus sign beside the drill battery should be a plus sign. That means some of the red and black lines should reverse colors too. The black lines going to and from the drill motor should especially be red for clarity, just as the red line going to the source should be black for clarity. Everything else in the video, including how the circuit is ACTUALLY wired up and the MOSFET explanation is correct."
+skycarl Thanks for letting me know. Can you tell me what type of headphones you use? It would really help to know. I've been hearing from people that they didn't even realize I had music in my videos, whereas I can always hear it loud and clear. The difference may be that I have high quality headphones that block out most external sound, and I guessed most others have lower quality headphones, or earbuds. So I tried an experiment.
mmm the circuit looks fugly. I think it would have been better to just use smal voltage doubler or cuatrupler with a 555 to get enough voltaje to fully turn on the mosfet. No need for biasing and you only use the drill battery instead of needing 3 extra AA. There are even mini step-ups where you put some voltage in and get a higher voltage out. In your case you have ~3V so you'd need one to get 10-12V from 2AA cells.
+RimstarOrg no dont do it. biasing is actually better then voltage doubler or anything stupid like that. my best suggestion is to buy logic level mosfet, those have low gate threshold voltage (some even 1-2V and they are not even close to begin rare or expensive)
+שי מזור Thanks. Why is biasing better? I've since bought some logic level mosfets but it doesn't matter anymore. Since moving on to a full H-bridge circuit, the gate to source voltage is now being supplied by the drill battery, while using a transistor and PWM from an Arduino for on/off and speed control.
RimstarOrg voltage multiplier \ doubler work only on AC. if you use a transformer it might be ok for you application. you might want to use chrage pump for this but really if you use something else use it. also for speed control with pwm you might want to show of using 555 timer as it is better if you want to solder it on a perfboard or etch pcb. if you are going to do a video about it dont forget to mention gate capacitance and how it can effect pwm frequency and maybe how to calculate power losses that convert to heat. :D
שי מזור the idea of the 555 was to generate an square wave AC signal going from 0 to VCC. Then with some caps and diodes you can double the voltage and then adding more stages using the same signal you can get 4x 8x and all the powers of 2 as far as the caps and diodes can withstand the tension. It needs AC but it doesnt mean it has to be sinusoidal.
ohh soory i ment to say i got the loop without the antenna wire that go's around the loop at the yard sale I got it from. that came with hiss am fm radio that he had
+Andrew Kimble I depends on the dimensions. As I said in my reply on the other video, mine was around 18" x 18". If it's around that size then it should be good, assuming you have some radio stations nearby.
+smellycat249 Thanks! I hadn't seen that yet. It was great seeing the Sphero BB-8 in a clear ball. I wish they'd shown inside Mike Senna's BB-8 too. I've looked on his blog and there are no details yet.
+Nicholas Lenzo nevermind possible debate about the "cheapness" of a boost converter, a few AAs will not be able to supply enough amperage to run a drill motor that size. generally, you would need either several parallel banks of AAs, or using larger C or D cell batteries. drill motors generally require about 4A to spin up, and about 2A to free-spin. driving a load generally requires around 5-10A or more. IME, AAs can generally only supply around 500mA to 1A before the voltage drops off. D cells can supply a fair bit more current.
+Brendan Bohannon I could be wrong but I think +Nicholas Lenzo was referring to get rid of the 3 AA batteries I'd used to bias the voltage of the remote control truck by having the output of the truck go to a boost converter and from there to the MOSFET's gate. I don't think he was suggesting replacing the drill battery. Of course, I could be misunderstanding what you're saying too :).
RimstarOrg oh, ok. a few resistors and some small (TO-92) transistors could also do this (use them to drive the MOSFET's gate off the drill battery). (I had somehow misread the original comment, thinking he meant to get rid of the drill battery).
+RimstarOrg +Brendan Bohannon Yes Rimstar, you are correct. But Brendan actually makes a valid point, the drill battery could also serve to activate the gate. You would just need a TO-92 2N9304 & 2N3906 transistor to hook it to the gate of the mosfet. I used this same method to control high voltage to my Nixie Clock with high voltage transistors. Although, if you could switch up the circuit a bit, and put the drill motor on the positive side, you could throw out the 2N3906(PNP) transistor and just use a PNP mosfet with a 2N9304(NPN) transistor at the gate.
Nicholas Lenzo yeah. a lot of my motor drivers boards also work this way, though generally with inverting outputs to save on transistors (say, so I only need a 3904 or 2N2222 or 2N5401 or similar per half-bridge), and I often use TIP122/TIP127 rather than MOSFETs (cheaper, and 5A is often sufficient, and I can go over 18V without fear of blowing up the transistors).
+zigmaex Thanks for letting me know. Can you tell me what kind of headphones you have (high quality, low quality, earbuds, headphones, ...)? It would really help me to know. I was trying an experiment because many people have been telling me they didn't even know I had music in my videos. Though I didn't expect it to be a problem.
+RimstarOrg in response to the "they didn't even know I had music in my videos" I find it extremely easy to selectively zone out the music and only focus on what you are saying. Since the music is repetitive it might aid in being able to zone it out easily. When people say they didn't know you had music in your videos, I doubt it is a volume issue. And if you do listen to it, I could see how some people find the music annoying because it is repetitive. Just my opinion. (edit) I tried listening to the video with my fairly good headphones, default apple earpods and cheap earbuds. I really didn't hear a difference. A suggestion would be to lower the volume of the music as it might make it easier for other people to understand you. I find the music to be a little loud
+Cole H Thanks! I very much appreciate you'd feedback on this. Looks like I'll be doing a new version of this video and I'll lower the sound volume where I do.
+zigmaex I only heard the last tones of the music (when the video was over), meaning I followed every word that was said. I think it is known our brains filter out things we don't want to hear. I even heard the motor running just perfectly. But I can imagine other people with other brains and other equipment (speakers, headphones) could have problems. I think it is time RUclips would start offering tracks. That would enable users to switch on and off a track! Well, suppose I want to get a CEO at RUclips to listen to me, where do I go?
dud, the drug music could be used by the investigators. it would make anybody confess! it makes your video almost pointless, why are you doing this? are you doing drugs?
+Tejas Shenoy They do perform much the same function. Relays are a much older tech, going back to the 1830s, and it's cool to see their uses back then, and still today (I've used them for automatic generator starters in solar systems.) A MOSFET requires very little current to keep the drain to source conducting, whereas a relay requires you to keep a coil energized, which is basically an electromagnet, and so that would require more current. I'm still new to MOSFETs but I've read of frequencies in the hundreds of kilohertz and even megahertz which I'm pretty sure you can get with relays.
PS. If you want people to be able to reply to you then you may have to go to your Google+ account settings and set "Who can comment on your public posts?" to Anyone.
Excellent video. I noticed you have the load connected between the drain and the neg rail, usually you would have the load connected between the POS rail and the source of the MOSFET. The way you show clearly works, but usually results in lower voltage across the load and possibly switching problems. I normally use a 100 ohm to 470 ohm resistor on the gate, and from the gate to the source(NEG), I would use a pull down resistor of 270k to 1M for reliable/fast turning off. :-) Keep in mind you can also use a "Logic-Level" MOSFET. They require very low voltage to completely turn on. Some as low as 1.5V.
+electronicsNmore The battery is backward in my circuit diagram; it was an error made when going from paper to computer drawing. The actual working circuit has the load between the battery positive and the drain. I guess not everyone is noticing the "Oops" in the video thumbnail or has annotations on. Maybe I should have uploaded a revised video after all.
I tried with a resistor on the gate but it didn't make any noticeable difference, and from my research I couldn't find a reason for it.
I ordered new MOSFETs yesterday with lower turn on voltages, though the H-bridge circuit I currently have in mind won't need the lower voltage anyway as it'll be using the drill battery.
+electronicsNmore Between the gate and source I just tried different resistances (1M, 470k, 1k, 220, 27) in place of the 10M and in all cases the it ran when the remote was turned on. It didn't work at all with 10 ohms or dead short between the gate and source, the latter being totally expected. I thought I'd tried 1k between the gate and source last week and could have sworn it hadn't worked. Oh well.
I would not upload a revised video. You did a great job on this one. I must have missed the "oops". The logic level mosfets are super handy to have on hand. Not every mosfet uses gate resistors, but most of the time they do. The purpose is to help prevent interference, voltage spikes, etc for reliable switching. I would definitely use resistors on the gates to balance things out when using mosfets in parallel using one source to trigger them.
Hi, I have been working with the TO-220 packages on breadboards (like your MOSFET here) for decades. A technique I have been using (to greatly improve the TO-220 to breadboard connection)--AND it prevents VERY annoying damage to the breadboard which causes many mysterious malfunctions, After scraping any oxidation off the three pin's surfaces--AND EDGES-- with an exacto knife, I use a pair of needle-nose pliers to bend the pins 90 degrees!! If you are familiar with the inside metal of breadboards, you will appreciate value of this technique. I just thought I should share this: So...hope it helps...
--dALE
+dale nassar Thanks for the tip, dALE! Now that you mention it I can see how you can potentially have bad connections with TO-220 and breadboards, especially reused ones like the one I used.
get 2 mosfets make zvs driver and have fun induction heating and arcing with flyback transformer. note everytime you experimentally start the circuit you have to do it trough 12 v headlight bulb in order to make sure the system works. i recommend 4 irf540n in twin groups. they handle hours of mistakes when good heatsinked
I know you're a big fan of recycling and reusing stuff, but this is a case you're creating more work and making the design unreliable in your efforts to salvage parts. This is a really good time to look up the datasheets and find a MOSFET with a turn-on voltage suitable for the truck's signal. You should also look at finding one with less resistance so you don't need that huge heatsink, which probably would not work enclosed inside a BB-8 ball. Also, is the truck giving you an analog signal proportional to speed, or is it a digital on/off signal. If you're doing a digital control then the MOSFET is a good choice, but there are other devices more suitable for analog signals than MOSFETS.Looking forward to the new BB-8 droid.
+USWaterRockets I didn't want to buy MOSFETs until I was sure I knew what to buy, hence this learning experiment. I'll definitely buy them for the next circuit since I don't have enough. From the comments below, I've since learned that this circuit is backward even, so the experiment was a success :). Regarding the heatsink, that was just a precaution. I didn't do a finger test to see if it heats up. The truck puts out flat DC.
+RimstarOrg FWIW, that heatsink was seriously overkill for the transistor and for the load. you could probably have used a much smaller heatsink, or stuck a glob of clay or similar on the transistor (tacky, but it works ok IME). commercial TO-220 heatsinks also exist, but have different properties.
FWIW, I often use Darlingtons due to them being cheaper than MOSFETs.
like, parts are expensive, one spends prices like several $1 transistors to run an $10 motor.
but, sadly, smaller/cheaper motors are really weak...
Interesting video, however what power rating is your drill motor at 12V as the Mosfet IRF614 data sheet drain current is 2.7A max?
Thanks. And sorry, but I don't know. I didn't measure it and not longer have the drill motor.
I've always been kind of confused about the distinction between MOSFETs and BJTs. I think one thing I heard was about current sensitive vs voltage sensitive. Is one better than the other for switching, or do they fill different roles?
+radioactivated the gamer different roles mostly.
MOSFETs are voltage controlled, and slightly better for digital switching, as they have a lower voltage-drop and generate a little less heat in this case. however, they are more expensive and are destroyed if the voltage goes too high (even if very briefly). if used for analog, they will generate considerably more heat (you generally do not want to use these for analog, use BJTs instead if you need analog). because of their lower heat, they can be used for switching a fair bit of current (such as using PWM to drive a motor).
BJTs are current controlled, and generate a little more heat for digital switching, but less for analog (though, digital switching still generates less heat than using them for analog). generally, they can also take a little more abuse without being permanently damaged. using them may require taking consideration of their base-current and gain behavior (hFE, etc...). essentially, the base current is multiplied by a curve to get the collector current.
Darlington BJTs are a compromise, basically with very high gain and behavior more like a digital switch. they generate more heat and are lower power than MOSFETs, but are typically also cheaper. IME, they are more easily damaged by voltage spikes than normal BJTs, but have otherwise generally proven fairly reliable.
you can also use normal BJTs in a Darlington configuration, using an NPN main transistor with either a small NPN or PNP transistor to get a high gain.
Great video! Good info on MOSFET's, there're fun little devices. Thanks
hi andrew here I was making my am christel radio by watching you videos and I did everything right. and the coils also it still does not work do you have more information on thes problems
I see what looks like 4 mosfets in a two speed RC car. I saw cmos on them. I am looking to use them to turn on a lighting system in an RC plane from servo. Any chance the signal wire straight from servo can activate the bias? Does the first part sound like the correct piece? Where do I look up parts online to match what I salvage? Please and thanks.
how did you manage to handle "HIGH CURRENT" drill motor with a mosfet that have 2.0Ohm Rds(on) and 2.7A Id ? that mosfet was designed for higher voltage,get a mosfet like irf3205 which designed for low voltage
+Tonny Cassidy Good question. It's been pointed out here that I had the MOSFET backward (as I said in the video, I'm new to MOSFETs.) Maybe the answer lies there. Anyway, I'll be uploading a revised video once I've had a chance to redo the circuit.
+RimstarOrg try low voltage mosfet, most high voltage mosfet high Rds(on) which is 2Ohm in this case ,you will lose some power from that,as far as i know ,it will act like having a 2Ohm resistor in series ,try low voltage mosfet like IRFZ44N (which can handle 44A) or IRF3205 (can handle up to 125A) ,using high voltage mosfet in low voltage application is not as efficient as using low voltage mosfet on low voltage,low voltage mosfet usually have low Rds(on) down to 1.7milliohm on some mosfet ,
Is your schematic right? Generally the source connects to the ground for most switching applications, and the drain connects to the device to be powered. (in other words the MOSFET should be on the LOW side, while the load on the HIGH side.) In that case, the MOSFET's resistance is directly controlled by the voltage on the gate relative to the ground. (since the source is connected there.)
The way that schematic is laid out right now, the MOSFET will only turn on when the voltage on the gate is about 5V higher than the drill battery in this case, or Vcc. And when it is less than that, the MOSFET does not saturate and actually becomes a crude buffer amplifier (a device which has high input impedance and low output impedance) google "MOSFET source follower" it is sort of analogous to the "emitter follower".
+Power Max I may have it wrong. I knew that the gate had to be higher than source, hence the position of the rc receiver and the bias batteries. It puzzled me that the arrow in the symbol was pointing the way it was and yet the drain was on the negative side. I thought that the circuits I looked at had the drain positive w.r.t. the source, yet I can't seem to find any that have it that way now that I'm looking again! I'll probably be removing this video and revising it.
BTW Is the music too loud for you? If not, what kind listening device do you
have (high quality, low quality, earbuds, headphones, ...)? A lot of folks have been telling me they weren't aware I even used music so I turned it up this time.
+RimstarOrg Lol I definitely noticed the music was louder. I honestly prefer either a different track or have the volume lowered as I personally found it a bit distracting, but that's just me. :) I know how you feel, I have got a few mean comments on my latest video about the music making people's ears bleed and other peoples head explode :P (the spoiled youtube community expects that the free content they get has to be perfect!)
The current configuration *is* valid, but it is generally used where you want to either make a crude voltage regulator or a buffer amplifier. The way it works is simple. Suppose you have a capacitor at 0V, and the MOSFET on the high side, and the MOSFET turn-on voltage is 7V: when 12V Vcc is applied to the drain, and the gate is pulled up also to 12V Vcc, The voltage between the source and the gate (Vgs) is 12V, turning the MOSFET on really hard, which causes the capacitor to charge really quickly. However as it approaches 12V-7V, or 5V, the Vgs voltage gets smaller and smaller, until the MOSFET begins to turn off, or fully off eventually and the capacitor stops charging. You can see how this creates a really basic voltage regulator, as when a load is attached to the capacitor, the capacitor discharges, causing the MOSFET to turn more ON, therefore regulating the voltage to around-about 5V!
+RimstarOrg Also as a general tip, I recommend formatting schematics so that the Vcc connections are higher, and ground or negative connections are lower, as that makes it easier to tell what connects where. Generally it is simpler to draw voltage nodes describing what point connects to what part of the power supply, and eliminates some of the wiring shown in the schematic. (the disadvantage is that this makes it a bit more difficult for people not used to looking at real schematics, preferring a more visual style wiring diagram)
+Power Max I guess I could do a compromise, try to keep Vcc connection on top and ground or negative below but keep all wiring for people not used to looking at real schematics, no terminating ground symbols.
+RimstarOrg taking a look at your circuit a bit more carefully, I realized that actually you just have the 12V drill battery polarity backwards, and no voltage applied to the RC truck! I originally thought you were using the MOSFET in the source follower (common drain) configuration, but if that was the case, then the drain would be connected to +12V and the source to one node on the drill. The way it is configured right now, the motor spin endlessly because the internal parasitic diode is always forward biased. (making it impossible to turn off the MOSFET) www.nlvocables.com/images/solar_project/mosfet_symbol.gif
If you do decide to make a revision to the video, I recommend also including a flyback diode on the drill. Afrotechmods has some great documentation on this. The motor is a inductive load, so when you PWM the gate, or turn the motor on and off, you will get enormous voltage spikes which can cause the MOSFET to fail. (generally there failure mode is a puncture in the thin insulating silicon oxide layer on the gate, causing the gate to be shorted to either the drain or source, and the MOSFET itself stuck partially on permanently.)
I would also recommend using a different MOSFET, as that one is no where near ideal for high current applications. It has an ON state resistance of 2 ohms, and a maximum current rating of 2A. I think those drill motors can pull upwards to 10A under load :O
great video...I have an old drill and I want to use it for pulling HDMIcable if possible can you explain how to use it? with DPST switch without (remote control ) thanks in advance
It worked, that's my take away from the vid and, certainly congrats are in order when working with new devices. For sound, no problems here, was just general b/ground music. External JBL single speaker (lol different huh).
A tip for heat dissipation in the final design - I use a coin superglued to the back. USA 1c for small transistors, up to a quarter for MOSFETs that are not running constantly.
+slider2732 Cool. Thanks for the feedback and tip.
My aeg drill pst mosfet overheating momentaly .handle became hot fast.why
Will these work for other rc cars as well with a transmitter and receiver operating at a low voltage(say 4.8v)??
It's impossible for me to say without seeing the schematic for the receiver and doing some measurements to confirm how it works. Personally, after going this approach, I since switched to using a HC-05 bluetooth receiver and a phone for the transmitter - much easier, works better and uses less power, though it depends on your application. Here's my video about it ruclips.net/video/5EuI9lBtC3I/видео.html.
RimstarOrg
Anyway thanks for your reply
Sir any video on RC Circuit's Explaining how the data transmission takes place from transmitter to receiver ,which controls the dc motor of the RC car
nice informative video again.
but your music this time didn't let me hear your narration. so i just muted it.
man i believe honestly for such type of videos, we don't need music in the background, just keep it simple :)
+SAMIMY Thanks for letting me know. What kind of headphones do you have (high quality, low quality, earbuds, headphones, ...)? A lot of people have been telling me they didn't even know I had music, so I turned it up this time. With that, and other problems folks are pointing out, I get the feeling I'll be removing this video and reworking it.
+RimstarOrg
both, i played your video using my desktop multimedia amplifier it was too loud, then i switched it off and used headphones (audio technica ath-ad700x), still the same problem. the music is distracting.
so here is a simple solution:
" just don't add music, your narration is fair enough and sounds good with the natural sound of the video"
+SAMIMY Thanks for testing. I guess I remain puzzled at how some people didn't know I used music, with the exception of some recent ones. I use music because I find just the sound of my voice can get dull after a while, especially for "lecture" videos. For short, fun videos, the music just adds to the fun. I'll experiment with it.
+RimstarOrg The reason people didnt know you had music was because it was at the perfect volume. It was just loud enough to keep people engaged but soft enough to not distract from your voice. Music in these type of videos should be used as an ambiance rather than a part you can hear. An analogy could be like dinner music its just there to cover white noise not drown out the conversation.
+ninjakiwi1324 Hmmm... That just might explain it. Thanks. It sure would be good if that's the reason - then that would mean what I was doing was all along was fine.
Your videos are great! Keep it up!
Seems you are a pro . I’m trying to remote control a 350w brushless Motor Controller with remote controller . I got a 4 channel ppm Receiver . If I connect this receiver to a throttle signal will that work ? What do you think ??
Nope, not a pro when it comes to remote controls, especially not multi-channel remotes. Maybe someone else here can help?
Just a little something I noticed, it looks like the drill battery is connected the wrong way round in the schematic, I don't know if anyone else has pointed that out.
+CoolDudeClem Yup, it's been pointed out. I'll be uploading a revised video. Too many useful comments here already to just delete this video. :)
RimstarOrg Might also be a good idea to put a diode 1n5400 series backwards across the motor to quench forward emf. Also you could eliminate the 3 aa cells instead drawing the switching voltage from the battery pack A TTL level low resistance MOSFET from a scrap motherboard may not need any heat sinking. Also add a 100nf capacitor across the motor to suppress radio noise.
+Nick Hill I'm hoping the need for the 3 AA cells will go away once I reverse the battery. I hadn't thought of the cap for suppressing radio noise. Thanks.
+CoolDudeClem I confirmed that the error was in the direction of the drill battery only in the circuit diagram in the video. The actual one that I demonstrate and the paper one on my desk are correct. The error happened when I drew it on the computer somehow.
+RimstarOrg Cool. With battery polarity in diagram, the protection diode in that model of transistor would have been forward biased turning motor on all the time. Someone mentioned a darlington, but that would create a 1.2 volt drop, which a MOSFET will avoid if the gate is driven with sufficient voltage. An IRLI2203G is a great choice since it has 30v Vdss and an on resistance of 0.015 ohm with 5Vgs. This shouldn't need a heatsink. If you want to get rid of the batteries you'd want to make sure the remote control shuts down completely if Vbatt (Vgs) gets below 3.5v since the MOSFET resistnce will increase significantly when the gate voltage is lower than that leading to increased dissipation. If you want to shrink the batteries a couple of coin cells would last since the curent draw is very small and 6v gate voltage is nice.
I tried my metal bed frame and the outside watter pipe for all ground connections it still does not work so what do you think
+Andrew Kimble I see you found my troubleshooting video. Make sure you have a long straight wire as the antenna. The longer it is the better is will work.
Andrew here i put magnet wire around the am loop antenna wood that work for the am loop antenna or no. I went to a yard sale he did not have the wire he only had the am loop what do you think
+Andrew Kimble I already answered you in another of my video's comments. Why are you asking the same questions under different videos?
always enjoying your videos man... keep it up
How do you keep the truck's wheels from moving?
+Brandon Fisher He probably disconnected the Motor to it.
+Nicholas Lenzo I guess that could be it but I can't be 100% sure unless Steve tells me so I'll settle for your answer unless Steve says otherwise, thanks for the reply though :)
+Brandon Fisher Yup, I disconnected the truck motor. If I end up using that remote control truck in the BB-8 then I'll eventually dig the receiver circuit out from it altogether.
when to use a MOSFET and when to use a relay? arent they used to perform the same function? +rimstarorg
Can i connect directly dc voltage to the drill without the mosfet, i am going to use my old drill for a project and i need it to activate with relays
You might be able to. Your DC power source would need to provide the right voltage and enough current to power the motor but you'd also need to make sure that the drill doesn't draw too much current from the power source such that it damages it.
@@RimstarOrg thanks for you reply, battery pack says 12v 1.4A, im going to use a 12v 5A charger
sir can you please tell me what are the various components present on an 30 A brushless ESC whether resistor's, capacitor etc.I cant find it anywhere.please
Vaibhav sharma an ESC has an 5volt Output and an pwm input ---> more Electronic parts
can I use a metal bed frame for a ground or no
those wires coming out from rc car are battery wires or wires for drive motor.
Good info! I like it.
can you add more then one am turner capisters to you're am radio
I followed the diagram but I assumed the wires coming from the transmitter were the legs of the preexisting drive motor.?!?
Yes, that's right. Note that there's an error in the diagram which I mention in the description for the video. The drill battery in the circuit diagram is drawn backwards by accident. The plus sign beside the drill battery should be a minus and the minus sign beside the drill battery should be a plus sign. That also means some of the line colors are wrong.
No wonder my stuff is catching on firehaha
Could you not just reduce the gate resistor so that the 3v (from the toy) yields the desired 1.4uA gate current...or sufficient drain current from the drill battery to run the drill motor at 2A?
--dAlE
+dale nassar I don't have any resistor between the toy/batteries and gate.
I do have the 10Mohm resistor between the gate and source though. I just tried different resistances (1M, 470k, 1k, 220, 27) in place of the 10M and in all cases the it ran when the remote was turned on _and_ I had the 3 AA batteries, but not _without_ the 3 AA batteries. It didn't work at all with 10 ohms or dead short between the gate and source, the latter being totally expected.
Sorry for the consecutive messages, but after reading, I think a better way of saying "bend the pins 90 degrees" would be "TWIST the pins 90 degrees"
--dALE
why didn't you use a relay they are much smaller then a mosfet with a heatsink on it?
+Ballistic RC I don't want to use a lot of current to keep the drill on. A relay requires current in order to keep the switch closed. A MOSFET requires a very tiny amount of current and functions using voltage alone. I prefer voltage with very little current because this will all be enclosed in a BB-8 droid and I don't want to have to replace/recharge batteries frequently.
Cool thanks later on could you make a MOSFET video were you show how to use them and how they work
I have a 18v motor I want to use in my rc rock crawler it has a esc that works off 7-12 v so my question is can the speed controller control the output voltage of the mosfet?
can you have more then one am tuner capacitors yes or no
+Andrew Kimble Yes. Just connect them in parallel.
Will this work with rc receiver signal
I'm not sure what you mean. Do you mean using the signal directly from the rc receiver circuitry somehow? I'm using the rc receiver's output.
Yeah is it possible somehow? With the wires that go to the servo?
I don't know what's going out on those wires so I can't say if it would work.
so how do you connect them in parallel do u know?.
+Andrew Kimble To connect them in parallel connect one side of both capacitors together and connect the other side of both capacitors together. Then treat the whole thing as a single capacitor and connect it to the rest of the circuit.
does the drill gave the same output???
I didn't test this circuit under a load. After doing this I switched to using H-bridge circuits which now use two drill motors to run my BB-8 droid ruclips.net/video/BCXH4AN2aog/видео.html. The detail for that circuit are here rimstar.org/science_electronics_projects/bb-8_v2_drive_electronics.htm.
So positive goes straight from drill to battery ... And negative goes to the mosfet mid pin > drain... then source out to resistor connected to gate out connected to drill battery with a branch off to AA batteries connected to what ???? input & output ??? on rc car and then branched back to neg drill battery line ...
That depends entirely on your RC car circuit. I should really just delete this video anyway. Here's the warning message in the video description in case you missed it "WARNING - The drill battery in the circuit diagram is drawn backwards by accident. The plus sign beside the drill battery should be a minus and the minus sign beside the drill battery should be a plus sign. That means some of the red and black lines should reverse colors too. The black lines going to and from the drill motor should especially be red for clarity, just as the red line going to the source should be black for clarity. Everything else in the video, including how the circuit is ACTUALLY wired up and the MOSFET explanation is correct."
Crystal Clear Style of Explanation.
Music is a little intense. Made it hard to follow what you were saying.
+skycarl Thanks for letting me know. Can you tell me what type of headphones you use? It would really help to know. I've been hearing from people that they didn't even realize I had music in my videos, whereas I can always hear it loud and clear. The difference may be that I have high quality headphones that block out most external sound, and I guessed most others have lower quality headphones, or earbuds. So I tried an experiment.
I'm watching on a Kindle Fire, no headphones. Hope this helps. Vids are always good.....
Thanks........
Carl
Best Video ich saw 4 long time! Thanks!
AWESOME, BUT GET RID OF MUSIC!
mmm the circuit looks fugly. I think it would have been better to just use smal voltage doubler or cuatrupler with a 555 to get enough voltaje to fully turn on the mosfet. No need for biasing and you only use the drill battery instead of needing 3 extra AA. There are even mini step-ups where you put some voltage in and get a higher voltage out. In your case you have ~3V so you'd need one to get 10-12V from 2AA cells.
+Laharl Krichevskoy Oh, neat idea.
+RimstarOrg
no dont do it.
biasing is actually better then voltage doubler or anything stupid like that.
my best suggestion is to buy logic level mosfet, those have low gate threshold voltage (some even 1-2V and they are not even close to begin rare or expensive)
+שי מזור Thanks. Why is biasing better? I've since bought some logic level mosfets but it doesn't matter anymore. Since moving on to a full H-bridge circuit, the gate to source voltage is now being supplied by the drill battery, while using a transistor and PWM from an Arduino for on/off and speed control.
RimstarOrg voltage multiplier \ doubler work only on AC. if you use a transformer it might be ok for you application.
you might want to use chrage pump for this but really if you use something else use it.
also for speed control with pwm you might want to show of using 555 timer as it is better if you want to solder it on a perfboard or etch pcb.
if you are going to do a video about it dont forget to mention gate capacitance and how it can effect pwm frequency and maybe how to calculate power losses that convert to heat.
:D
שי מזור the idea of the 555 was to generate an square wave AC signal going from 0 to VCC. Then with some caps and diodes you can double the voltage and then adding more stages using the same signal you can get 4x 8x and all the powers of 2 as far as the caps and diodes can withstand the tension. It needs AC but it doesnt mean it has to be sinusoidal.
i took a two radio coils out of old am fm radios that plugs into the wall and also i was useing can. you use them what's what's you're input on that
ohh soory i ment to say i got the loop without the antenna wire that go's around the loop at the yard sale I got it from. that came with hiss am fm radio that he had
+Andrew Kimble I depends on the dimensions. As I said in my reply on the other video, mine was around 18" x 18". If it's around that size then it should be good, assuming you have some radio stations nearby.
hey rimstar check out the "tested" channel bb8 droid teardown
+smellycat249 Thanks! I hadn't seen that yet. It was great seeing the Sphero BB-8 in a clear ball. I wish they'd shown inside Mike Senna's BB-8 too. I've looked on his blog and there are no details yet.
+RimstarOrg anytime
Try a different mosfet instead of adding more batteries
+ChadHHC86 Sounds like a good long term solution. This was the only MOSFET I had on hand for this test. But I should mention that in the video.
Use a boost converter instead of the batteries. Theyre really cheap.
+Nicholas Lenzo nevermind possible debate about the "cheapness" of a boost converter, a few AAs will not be able to supply enough amperage to run a drill motor that size. generally, you would need either several parallel banks of AAs, or using larger C or D cell batteries.
drill motors generally require about 4A to spin up, and about 2A to free-spin. driving a load generally requires around 5-10A or more.
IME, AAs can generally only supply around 500mA to 1A before the voltage drops off. D cells can supply a fair bit more current.
+Brendan Bohannon I could be wrong but I think +Nicholas Lenzo was referring to get rid of the 3 AA batteries I'd used to bias the voltage of the remote control truck by having the output of the truck go to a boost converter and from there to the MOSFET's gate. I don't think he was suggesting replacing the drill battery. Of course, I could be misunderstanding what you're saying too :).
RimstarOrg oh, ok. a few resistors and some small (TO-92) transistors could also do this (use them to drive the MOSFET's gate off the drill battery). (I had somehow misread the original comment, thinking he meant to get rid of the drill battery).
+RimstarOrg +Brendan Bohannon Yes Rimstar, you are correct. But Brendan actually makes a valid point, the drill battery could also serve to activate the gate. You would just need a TO-92 2N9304 & 2N3906 transistor to hook it to the gate of the mosfet. I used this same method to control high voltage to my Nixie Clock with high voltage transistors.
Although, if you could switch up the circuit a bit, and put the drill motor on the positive side, you could throw out the 2N3906(PNP) transistor and just use a PNP mosfet with a 2N9304(NPN) transistor at the gate.
Nicholas Lenzo yeah. a lot of my motor drivers boards also work this way, though generally with inverting outputs to save on transistors (say, so I only need a 3904 or 2N2222 or 2N5401 or similar per half-bridge), and I often use TIP122/TIP127 rather than MOSFETs (cheaper, and 5A is often sufficient, and I can go over 18V without fear of blowing up the transistors).
Annoying background music.
+zigmaex Thanks for letting me know. Can you tell me what kind of headphones you have (high quality, low quality, earbuds, headphones, ...)? It would really help me to know. I was trying an experiment because many people have been telling me they didn't even know I had music in my videos. Though I didn't expect it to be a problem.
+RimstarOrg in response to the "they didn't even know I had music in my videos" I find it extremely easy to selectively zone out the music and only focus on what you are saying. Since the music is repetitive it might aid in being able to zone it out easily. When people say they didn't know you had music in your videos, I doubt it is a volume issue.
And if you do listen to it, I could see how some people find the music annoying because it is repetitive. Just my opinion.
(edit) I tried listening to the video with my fairly good headphones, default apple earpods and cheap earbuds. I really didn't hear a difference.
A suggestion would be to lower the volume of the music as it might make it easier for other people to understand you. I find the music to be a little loud
+Cole H Thanks! I very much appreciate you'd feedback on this. Looks like I'll be doing a new version of this video and I'll lower the sound volume where I do.
+zigmaex I only heard the last tones of the music (when the video was over), meaning I followed every word that was said. I think it is known our brains filter out things we don't want to hear. I even heard the motor running just perfectly. But I can imagine other people with other brains and other equipment (speakers, headphones) could have problems. I think it is time RUclips would start offering tracks. That would enable users to switch on and off a track! Well, suppose I want to get a CEO at RUclips to listen to me, where do I go?
biasing，i learn this before in uni
dud, the drug music could be used by the investigators. it would make anybody confess! it makes your video almost pointless, why are you doing this? are you doing drugs?
I like it many many
I'm the first one!
Great video! Good info on MOSFET's, there're fun little devices. Thanks
Great video! Good info on MOSFET's, there're fun little devices. Thanks