Thank you for being educational and humble!! Zach, could you, would you do a short show about how to stow a 14 ft Sotar on the trailer, ready to go, yet ready for winter, that would be very appreciated. I don't want to deflate my boat and stow it in the shed. I've covered it to protect from UV, yet the tarp ends up looking like a swimming pool after a heavy rain. No saying what to do when it's freezing. Please advise and thank you for doing what you do! JB from Vancouver Washington
Build two small stands on each end of the trailer and tie a rope between lengthwise (rigid pole works better) and make the top of the tarp more like a tent with a ridge and not a bathtub.
@@kirk2459 Thank you Kirk, I used the old pool ladder stands and a 20 foot rail for a chain link fence and did what you suggested and made a tent. Appreciate you insight!
Great information on oars and setup . I was running the square top and liked them on my Clakacraft Eddie but changed to cataract X wound . I like the idea of swapping blades and knowing that if you break an oar or blade ( which most of have done ) you can just replace that part . I also use the convertible oar rights and can’t believe the grief I get for using them . Like you I use them when I have to reef on the oars and don’t have to think or feel where my oars are at , plus when I anchor up they streamline and keep the boat from swinging back and forth. They particularly work good when floating big rivers when I have my 5hp motor on the boat , I just fire up the engine leave the oars in the water and when I take off they just sweep back and streamline by there selves . Thanks for sharing
Another great episode, thanks! One note on the cotter pin - those only work well when the oar tower leaves enough clearance for a full rotation of the pin. DRE oar towers do not, for example, and in that case a 360 rotation of the oar lock will bend and eventually break off the cotter pin. I went through 4 this year before I realized what was happening!
Great video piece. I love your candid recommendations like this. Any thoughts on running springs under the oar lock post as show by NRS? Seems like they're shock absorbers when beating the oars on rocks.
Hey Zach, do you have any thoughts or advice about the amount of play between the neck of the oar lock, and the tower hole? Running neoprene washers vs just metal on metal? Specifically, my question is about the oar locks rattling around when there's play, or it's metal on metal, if that's a bad idea, or if there's a loss of stroke efficiency or anything notable like that? Also what about greasing it vs just leaving it alone with no lubricant. Thanks man!
Thanks for another great video. I have a similar setup, but I use the big plastic blades. They're a little heavier than the Dynalites, but they grab more water and are less expensive. Also, what do you think about springs on the oar lock shafts? They're supposed to keep the locks tighter in place, but do they really add anything?
New boater here, but in a former life I rowed competitively at a fairly high level for a long time. As someone who is putting everything together for the first time, I'm a little confused when I see all this measuring with oar length and where the oar stop is, but then see all sorts of people rowing with the oar stop really far from the oarlock and the oars pulled in, which would be a huge no no in the world that I come from. It's even in this video at the beginning. Any insight into this? I'm looking to figure out the right distance that my handles should be from the oarlock, setting my rubber oar stop there, then never ever letting them lose contact with the oarlock unless I'm pulling them in to stop rowing. Am I crazy? Another question, with oar rights, I still see the rubber oar stop on. Is that just because they're hard to take off? I feel like I could throw everything together poorly and go for a row tomorrow, but I'm interested in at least having the setup right so I only have myself to blame. Thanks!
Some experienced rowers prefer not using the oar stops. Most people do use the oar stops. You generally want the oar handles around and inch from each other when the oars are parallel to the ground.
Very informative. Is there a reason you leave both the rubber oar stopper and oar-right on each oar? Seems like extra weight and clutter, even if only marginal.
How does the weight of Polecat shafts compare to the weight of the MXSs? I assume the Polecats are more flexible? I'm looking for a pair of light weight, flexing oars with the component options of Sawyer's carbon shafts to replace the pair of heavy, stiff Carlisles that came with my Clacka when I bought it used seven years ago.
Thank you for being educational and humble!!
Zach, could you, would you do a short show about how to stow a 14 ft Sotar on the trailer, ready to go, yet ready for winter, that would be very appreciated. I don't want to deflate my boat and stow it in the shed. I've covered it to protect from UV, yet the tarp ends up looking like a swimming pool after a heavy rain. No saying what to do when it's freezing. Please advise and thank you for doing what you do!
JB from Vancouver Washington
Unfortunately I don’t have any good answers for you. I roll my boat and store it in the garage.
Build two small stands on each end of the trailer and tie a rope between lengthwise (rigid pole works better) and make the top of the tarp more like a tent with a ridge and not a bathtub.
@@kirk2459 Thank you Kirk, I used the old pool ladder stands and a 20 foot rail for a chain link fence and did what you suggested and made a tent. Appreciate you insight!
Wow, good info as I learn and prepare to eventually purchase and set up a 2 person cataraft. Thank you.
Great information on oars and setup . I was running the square top and liked them on my Clakacraft Eddie but changed to cataract X wound . I like the idea of swapping blades and knowing that if you break an oar or blade ( which most of have done ) you can just replace that part . I also use the convertible oar rights and can’t believe the grief I get for using them . Like you I use them when I have to reef on the oars and don’t have to think or feel where my oars are at , plus when I anchor up they streamline and keep the boat from swinging back and forth. They particularly work good when floating big rivers when I have my 5hp motor on the boat , I just fire up the engine leave the oars in the water and when I take off they just sweep back and streamline by there selves . Thanks for sharing
Another great episode, thanks! One note on the cotter pin - those only work well when the oar tower leaves enough clearance for a full rotation of the pin. DRE oar towers do not, for example, and in that case a 360 rotation of the oar lock will bend and eventually break off the cotter pin. I went through 4 this year before I realized what was happening!
Thanks for the info!
Great video piece. I love your candid recommendations like this.
Any thoughts on running springs under the oar lock post as show by NRS? Seems like they're shock absorbers when beating the oars on rocks.
I don’t think you need those springs
The pin you are holding is called a linchpin...cotter pins look like a heavy duty hair pin
Hey Zach, do you have any thoughts or advice about the amount of play between the neck of the oar lock, and the tower hole? Running neoprene washers vs just metal on metal? Specifically, my question is about the oar locks rattling around when there's play, or it's metal on metal, if that's a bad idea, or if there's a loss of stroke efficiency or anything notable like that? Also what about greasing it vs just leaving it alone with no lubricant. Thanks man!
I run metal on metal and don't worry about lubricant
Thanks for another great video. I have a similar setup, but I use the big plastic blades. They're a little heavier than the Dynalites, but they grab more water and are less expensive. Also, what do you think about springs on the oar lock shafts? They're supposed to keep the locks tighter in place, but do they really add anything?
I've always wondered about what the springs are for. I think gravity does a pretty good job of keeping the locks in place.
New boater here, but in a former life I rowed competitively at a fairly high level for a long time. As someone who is putting everything together for the first time, I'm a little confused when I see all this measuring with oar length and where the oar stop is, but then see all sorts of people rowing with the oar stop really far from the oarlock and the oars pulled in, which would be a huge no no in the world that I come from. It's even in this video at the beginning. Any insight into this? I'm looking to figure out the right distance that my handles should be from the oarlock, setting my rubber oar stop there, then never ever letting them lose contact with the oarlock unless I'm pulling them in to stop rowing. Am I crazy?
Another question, with oar rights, I still see the rubber oar stop on. Is that just because they're hard to take off?
I feel like I could throw everything together poorly and go for a row tomorrow, but I'm interested in at least having the setup right so I only have myself to blame.
Thanks!
Some experienced rowers prefer not using the oar stops. Most people do use the oar stops. You generally want the oar handles around and inch from each other when the oars are parallel to the ground.
The oar stops are hard to get on and off so leaving them on is a good idea.
What do you use as a lubricant between the lock and the tower?
Nothing
Where are you getting high quality pins and clips
I don't need to buy more so I haven't looked for a while. I think Recretec manufactures some of the old school ones with the ball on top.
Very informative. Is there a reason you leave both the rubber oar stopper and oar-right on each oar? Seems like extra weight and clutter, even if only marginal.
I don't always use the oar right. It's nice to have the rubber stopper ready to go in case I take the oar right off.
And you've just answered a question I just asked.
Can you tell me about the hat behind you to your left?
It's a straw hat from Jaxonbilt Hat Company in Salmon, Idaho jaxonbilthats.com/
@@GearGarageTV thank you. I think I saw one of your videos where you were rowing with it. It looked liked it provided great shade.
How does the weight of Polecat shafts compare to the weight of the MXSs? I assume the Polecats are more flexible? I'm looking for a pair of light weight, flexing oars with the component options of Sawyer's carbon shafts to replace the pair of heavy, stiff Carlisles that came with my Clacka when I bought it used seven years ago.
I’d suggest asking Sawyer these questions