i'm in the states so my dryer is a 240 volt one (most in the states are) so instead of a energy monitoring device i used a smartthings multipurpose sensor that i had back when i was using smartthings hub. It works great in HA and it has both a vibration sensor and a contact sensor built into it. This way i can monitor the small vibrations when the dryer is running plus i can tell when someone opens the door on the dryer. For the washer i used a sengled smart plug with energy monitoring built into it. These work great with the right automations in HA. Also have my google assistant tell us when the washer or dryer is done but i am using espresense (esp32's) so it can tell who started the washer/dryer and when either one is done it can locate which room that person is in and just target that google assistant. If the person isn't home it sends a notification to that persons phone letting them know.
Not wanting to rain on anyone’s parade here but the folks in the UK need to be VERY careful connecting the Shelly 1PM as suggested in this video. Unless the socket outlet is verifiably on a radial circuit backed by a 16A circuit breaker or fed from a 13A fused spur, 99% chance the socket will be on a ring final circuit. Socket “ring mains” are backed by 32A circuit breakers, Shelly 1PM terminals are rated at 16A, if both legs of the ring is connected to each of the feed through terminals on the Shelley (marked L and N), you will create a serious risk of overload through those terminals and potentially a fire. Bear in mind, folks will watch this and potentially go “ah, this is a cheap way to automate all my sockets in my house.” Great big massive no no and somewhat irresponsible.
Hi Brahm! Thanks for raising this important point, get this checked by an electrician based on your own setup at home. One thing to note the n does not feed from the Shelly into the socket, n feeds from the main wire as it was before
This was exactly my thought & why there is no info on how to integrate a 1PM into a UK ring main. However, my drier & washing machine are as you said on a 13a fused spur so I think Im ok to proceed as in this video. Need to double check the power stated on the appliances but they are clearly under 3.1kw or the 13amp spur fuse would always be blowing. Good comment though hoping it saves someone a fire
Thanks for this information. I have used this on my coffee machine. Icon changes to indicate 'off', 'Heating' and 'Ready'. When ready the Google mini announces the machine is ready and time to make some coffee.. 🙂
I see some folks are worried that this Shelly smart switch may not work because the amp draw is too high for his application. Most Americans are not aware that European voltage is single phase 240 volts and not two legs of 120 volts (180 degrees out of phase because the transformer on the power pole outside your home is center taped). In USA this is what we have in our homes. We don't use a neutral when we use 240 here because of the center tap, just a ground for short circuit protection. When you measure the voltage between two phases 180 out of phase you get 240 volts here in the USA. If you measure one phase to ground or neutral you would get 120 volts. If the incoming single phase to neutral is 240 or ground, then you have 240 volt incoming power. Of course whether or not the switch will work will depend on the amp draw of the dryer through the Shelly switch contacts. The controls in the dryer are 240 (I assume since I have not seen the schematics or the dryer specifications) (not 120 volts like the US) The heater element would also be 240 (I assume), this could also be a heat pump dryer that would use much less amperage than an American dryer.
This was great, now I have to add icons to my dryer template. BTW, my dryer has a light inside, so I also have... {% elif states("sensor.dryer_power")|float
I am a Shelly beginner and have acquired the following devices for learning purposes: - Shelly 1PM - Shelly Plus 1 - Shelly Plus 2PM - Shelly Dimmer 2 I want to intercept the signal coming into the kitchen, which is connected to a (220 V AC) doorbell (only powered when the bell is pressed), with a Shelly device, in order to signal the ringing at the front door in the rooms on the upper floor via Home Assistant. For powering the Shelly, I have installed a seperate 220 V AC connection near the doorbell. As soon as the doorbell circuit is powered by pressing at the front door and rings, I want to capture this signal or current flow with the Shelly and create an entry in its logbook. This entry will then be used to activate a light via Home Assistant, so I can see that someone rang at the door. Which Shelly device should I use and how do I connect it? Thank you very much for your help - Peter
Since you asked about other countries, in the U.S. electric dryers use 2-phase 240VAC so this won't work here. It will work on most other devices in the typical house as this are single phase 120V. 2-phase 240v has two wires supplying power, one is +120V and the other is -120V, for a difference of 240V.
U.S. 240v is not 2 phase, there's no such thing. It's still considered single phase 240v even with two hot wires. Unless the shelly specifically needs a neutral, it may still work with 1 PH 240v. Just need to look at the specs.
You need to be careful that the smart device chosen, especially for something like a tumble dryer, can handle the amperage. I went for a Frient 20204500 Smart Cable, as it's rated for 16A, is Zigbee (acts as a router, so expands my mesh), can be wired into the appliance cable meaning space behind the appliance is not an issue (unlike a smart plug) and it doesn't matter if you have double socket as it will only monitor the appliance it's connected to. The downside is it's not cheap.
The Shelly1 that you referenced is only 15A rated. Many dryers are much higher than 15A and would burn out (and potentially catch it on fire) if hooked up to the higher amperage circuit.
Thanks Robert for mentioning this topic which is very important, hence I think when electrical work is involved always get a certified electrician involved. The Shelly 1 pm plus is 16a rated
Hi, Great video ! I.will use shelly to monitor my underfloor heating energy usage. P.S Which sensor are u using to detect a car i.yoir parking bay ?? Thanks
Hello, I got hold of a shelly 1pm that you mention, as I said, I have to use it to see the power consumption of a washing machine/dryer, i.e. I have wires from the socket and then shelly 1pm and then a wire has to go from there to the plug on the washing machine /dryer, sounds easy :) but on the shelly 1pm there are 7 options for wires and I can't figure out where to connect the 2 that come from the switch and the 2 that go to the washer/dryer. On the shelly (which look like the one you show), there are markings from left to right 0 and sw and L 3 times and N 2 times, so I'm confused. In DK we only have 2 wires. Can you help ? Regards, Alan
This is a very nice automation with a high WAF(Wife Acceptance Factor). Looking at your video I wonder if the template your are using does not give false positives looking at the spiky power consumption behavior of dryers and washing machines? I have a similar automation running using the ‘appliance has finished’ blueprint in combination with a blitzwolf 16A zigbee smartplug. As I understand the blueprint accounts that the power is under a certain level for some time. in order to monitor the status, I added a helper (input_select) with two states running and finished. When the dryer is started I set the state to running with a separate automation, and at the end of the (blueprint) automation I set it to finished, together with an action to notify on my phone and TTS on the Kitchen SONOS. Works like charme. I even extended that a little further and can now ask Siri if the dryer is still running and monitor energy consumption by creating an ‘integration’ sensor that I added to the HA Energy integration. Very cool stuff…..keep up the good work with these videos
You are correct regarding false positives, if you tend to use the same cycle then it would be a repeatable pattern, simple thing to do in the automations is to use the for parameter
I really like and learn a lot from your videos! I was just wondering if you are using this a bit over complicated method because you are in the UK and has no access to a shelly plug. I do the same with some shelly plug S. In that way it is not necessary to play with any wires at all :-)
Do you know any smart plug with which this automation can be created? (which you created with Shelly 1 pm: state from "Drying" to "Off"). Maybe with Shelly plug S ?
So in your socket installation with shelly does it mean all the loads which will be connected on both points will be controlled by shelly? What if, I have no option I m using dual socket but I want only one point to be controlled by shelly and another point I want to use without shelly? In the same dual socket,how to wire that
Ciao vorrei mettere singolarmente che controlla i consumi su tutti gli elettrodomestici di casa 🏠 quale mi consigli che vedo tutto dalla applicazione SHELLY 1) lavastoviglie 2) Forno 3) Frigo 4 )lavatrice 5)asciugatrici e 6)scaldino in emergenza 🚨 se si rompe la caldaia che è successo
This is my Config file with no errors now: template: - sensor: - name: Tumble Dryer state: > {% if states("sensor.washer_power")|float == 0 %} Off {% elif states("sensor.washer_power")|float {% if states("switch.washer_switch_0") == "off" %} mdi:tumble-dryer-alert {% elif states("sensor.washer_power")|float
Got any ideas to power monitor my EV Level 2 charger? I’d love to know (through Home Assistant) that my car is done charging. I’m doubting the Shelly can handle the amperage going through it
when I use your two pices code in my YMSL file I get this error message: end of the stream or a document separator is expected at line 156, column 1: - id: 'washer_finished' ^ Any idea how to fix this? Thx
Awesome video! I am trying to implement something similar but I seem to be getting stuck on the Templating. It passes the configuration test but the new sensor doesnt show up in entities even after a reboot anyone have any thoughts? (New to Yaml so sorry if I'm missing something obvious) template: - sensor: - name: Washer state: > {% if states("sensor.power_7")|float == 0 %} Off {% elif states("sensor.power_7")|float
There is 2PM Shelly (2 channels) if you want to monitor two appliances from the same socket. Each Channel is separately monitored.
i'm in the states so my dryer is a 240 volt one (most in the states are) so instead of a energy monitoring device i used a smartthings multipurpose sensor that i had back when i was using smartthings hub. It works great in HA and it has both a vibration sensor and a contact sensor built into it. This way i can monitor the small vibrations when the dryer is running plus i can tell when someone opens the door on the dryer. For the washer i used a sengled smart plug with energy monitoring built into it. These work great with the right automations in HA. Also have my google assistant tell us when the washer or dryer is done but i am using espresense (esp32's) so it can tell who started the washer/dryer and when either one is done it can locate which room that person is in and just target that google assistant. If the person isn't home it sends a notification to that persons phone letting them know.
Not wanting to rain on anyone’s parade here but the folks in the UK need to be VERY careful connecting the Shelly 1PM as suggested in this video. Unless the socket outlet is verifiably on a radial circuit backed by a 16A circuit breaker or fed from a 13A fused spur, 99% chance the socket will be on a ring final circuit. Socket “ring mains” are backed by 32A circuit breakers, Shelly 1PM terminals are rated at 16A, if both legs of the ring is connected to each of the feed through terminals on the Shelley (marked L and N), you will create a serious risk of overload through those terminals and potentially a fire.
Bear in mind, folks will watch this and potentially go “ah, this is a cheap way to automate all my sockets in my house.” Great big massive no no and somewhat irresponsible.
Hi Brahm! Thanks for raising this important point, get this checked by an electrician based on your own setup at home. One thing to note the n does not feed from the Shelly into the socket, n feeds from the main wire as it was before
This was exactly my thought & why there is no info on how to integrate a 1PM into a UK ring main. However, my drier & washing machine are as you said on a 13a fused spur so I think Im ok to proceed as in this video. Need to double check the power stated on the appliances but they are clearly under 3.1kw or the 13amp spur fuse would always be blowing. Good comment though hoping it saves someone a fire
Thank you.. you helped me with the wiring of my Shelly 1PM
Thanks for this information. I have used this on my coffee machine. Icon changes to indicate 'off', 'Heating' and 'Ready'. When ready the Google mini announces the machine is ready and time to make some coffee.. 🙂
What coffee machine have you got?:)
@@SmartHomeMakers Its not a smart coffee machine (Lamazocco Mini). I have an power monitoring wall socket and plug the coffee machine into that.
I see some folks are worried that this Shelly smart switch may not work because the amp draw is too high for his application. Most Americans are not aware that European voltage is single phase 240 volts and not two legs of 120 volts (180 degrees out of phase because the transformer on the power pole outside your home is center taped). In USA this is what we have in our homes. We don't use a neutral when we use 240 here because of the center tap, just a ground for short circuit protection. When you measure the voltage between two phases 180 out of phase you get 240 volts here in the USA. If you measure one phase to ground or neutral you would get 120 volts. If the incoming single phase to neutral is 240 or ground, then you have 240 volt incoming power.
Of course whether or not the switch will work will depend on the amp draw of the dryer through the Shelly switch contacts. The controls in the dryer are 240 (I assume since I have not seen the schematics or the dryer specifications) (not 120 volts like the US) The heater element would also be 240 (I assume), this could also be a heat pump dryer that would use much less amperage than an American dryer.
Thanks for this explanation !!
This was great, now I have to add icons to my dryer template. BTW, my dryer has a light inside, so I also have... {% elif states("sensor.dryer_power")|float
Aah good one! Thanks Edwin!
I am a Shelly beginner and have acquired the following devices for learning purposes:
- Shelly 1PM
- Shelly Plus 1
- Shelly Plus 2PM
- Shelly Dimmer 2
I want to intercept the signal coming into the kitchen, which is connected to a (220 V AC) doorbell (only powered when the bell is pressed), with a Shelly device, in order to signal the ringing at the front door in the rooms on the upper floor via Home Assistant.
For powering the Shelly, I have installed a seperate 220 V AC connection near the doorbell. As soon as the doorbell circuit is powered by pressing at the front door and rings, I want to capture this signal or current flow with the Shelly and create an entry in its logbook. This entry will then be used to activate a light via Home Assistant, so I can see that someone rang at the door.
Which Shelly device should I use and how do I connect it?
Thank you very much for your help - Peter
This is great for washers and dishwashers, but for a dryer I would just pick up a vibration sensor. That will tell you when your dryer is done.
Good point!
I do the same but with Aqara Zigbee Plugs. No electrical work
Nice! Never tried the Aqara plugs before !
Since you asked about other countries, in the U.S. electric dryers use 2-phase 240VAC so this won't work here. It will work on most other devices in the typical house as this are single phase 120V. 2-phase 240v has two wires supplying power, one is +120V and the other is -120V, for a difference of 240V.
Thanks Vegas for the comment! This is useful for folks in the US
U.S. 240v is not 2 phase, there's no such thing. It's still considered single phase 240v even with two hot wires. Unless the shelly specifically needs a neutral, it may still work with 1 PH 240v. Just need to look at the specs.
You need to be careful that the smart device chosen, especially for something like a tumble dryer, can handle the amperage. I went for a Frient 20204500 Smart Cable, as it's rated for 16A, is Zigbee (acts as a router, so expands my mesh), can be wired into the appliance cable meaning space behind the appliance is not an issue (unlike a smart plug) and it doesn't matter if you have double socket as it will only monitor the appliance it's connected to. The downside is it's not cheap.
Hi Robert, sounds like a great solution, yes it is rated 16 amp :) thanks for raising this point!
The Shelly1 that you referenced is only 15A rated. Many dryers are much higher than 15A and would burn out (and potentially catch it on fire) if hooked up to the higher amperage circuit.
Thanks Robert for mentioning this topic which is very important, hence I think when electrical work is involved always get a certified electrician involved. The Shelly 1 pm plus is 16a rated
@@SmartHomeMakers A typical dryer in the US will draw from 7.5 to about 30 amps (depending on the model).
Hi,
Great video ! I.will use shelly to monitor my underfloor heating energy usage.
P.S
Which sensor are u using to detect a car i.yoir parking bay ??
Thanks
Hello, I got hold of a shelly 1pm that you mention, as I said, I have to use it to see the power consumption of a washing machine/dryer, i.e. I have wires from the socket and then shelly 1pm and then a wire has to go from there to the plug on the washing machine /dryer, sounds easy :) but on the shelly 1pm there are 7 options for wires and I can't figure out where to connect the 2 that come from the switch and the 2 that go to the washer/dryer. On the shelly (which look like the one you show), there are markings from left to right 0 and sw and L 3 times and N 2 times, so I'm confused.
In DK we only have 2 wires.
Can you help ? Regards, Alan
This is a very nice automation with a high WAF(Wife Acceptance Factor). Looking at your video I wonder if the template your are using does not give false positives looking at the spiky power consumption behavior of dryers and washing machines? I have a similar automation running using the ‘appliance has finished’ blueprint in combination with a blitzwolf 16A zigbee smartplug. As I understand the blueprint accounts that the power is under a certain level for some time. in order to monitor the status, I added a helper (input_select) with two states running and finished. When the dryer is started I set the state to running with a separate automation, and at the end of the (blueprint) automation I set it to finished, together with an action to notify on my phone and TTS on the Kitchen SONOS. Works like charme. I even extended that a little further and can now ask Siri if the dryer is still running and monitor energy consumption by creating an ‘integration’ sensor that I added to the HA Energy integration. Very cool stuff…..keep up the good work with these videos
You are correct regarding false positives, if you tend to use the same cycle then it would be a repeatable pattern, simple thing to do in the automations is to use the for parameter
Thanks.
Welcome!
Thanks for this! All Ok ... but
Template icon is changing now, but state colour isn't. 🙂 WHAT is wrong?
Hi Paul, check your code for the state again there must be a difference!
I really like and learn a lot from your videos! I was just wondering if you are using this a bit over complicated method because you are in the UK and has no access to a shelly plug. I do the same with some shelly plug S. In that way it is not necessary to play with any wires at all :-)
Hi Miguel, this will depend on how much space you have, sometimes smart plugs are bulky and don't allow the fitted cabinet back again.
Could set a timer, have the same effect
The time of the cycle could change if you pick a different program :)
Do you know any smart plug with which this automation can be created? (which you created with Shelly 1 pm: state from "Drying" to "Off").
Maybe with Shelly plug S ?
Shelly plug S sounds good! Any really with power monitoring will work! It will mostly depend on your appliance and avoiding false positives
will the announcement portion of this work using and eco dot?
If you have tts working with eco’s then yes :)
lol! I did exactly the same just 4 days ago... :D
Nice one Chiba!
Why this instead of a shelly plug?
Hi Gerard! Main reason is that in integrated appliances there is very little space behind it and sometimes the Shelly plugs are bulky!
So in your socket installation with shelly does it mean all the loads which will be connected on both points will be controlled by shelly? What if, I have no option I m using dual socket but I want only one point to be controlled by shelly and another point I want to use without shelly? In the same dual socket,how to wire that
From what my electrician said you can’t in the UK
@@SmartHomeMakers Thanks
Which is the best solution can I use
Ciao vorrei mettere singolarmente che controlla i consumi su tutti gli elettrodomestici di casa 🏠 quale mi consigli che vedo tutto dalla applicazione SHELLY 1) lavastoviglie 2) Forno 3) Frigo 4 )lavatrice 5)asciugatrici e 6)scaldino in emergenza 🚨 se si rompe la caldaia che è successo
forse uno shelly EM da mettere vicino allo switch board
This is my Config file with no errors now:
template:
- sensor:
- name: Tumble Dryer
state: >
{% if states("sensor.washer_power")|float == 0 %}
Off
{% elif states("sensor.washer_power")|float
{% if states("switch.washer_switch_0") == "off" %}
mdi:tumble-dryer-alert
{% elif states("sensor.washer_power")|float
Got any ideas to power monitor my EV Level 2 charger? I’d love to know (through Home Assistant) that my car is done charging. I’m doubting the Shelly can handle the amperage going through it
I have an EV too! Have you got a Tesla or BMW? Not sure if the Shelly breaker unit might help!
@@SmartHomeMakers I have a Rav4 Prime plug in hybrid.
when I use your two pices code in my YMSL file I get this error message: end of the stream or a document separator is expected at line 156, column 1:
- id: 'washer_finished'
^
Any idea how to fix this?
Thx
Where did you add this in the config ?
@@SmartHomeMakers at the end of the file.
Awesome video! I am trying to implement something similar but I seem to be getting stuck on the Templating. It passes the configuration test but the new sensor doesnt show up in entities even after a reboot anyone have any thoughts? (New to Yaml so sorry if I'm missing something obvious)
template:
- sensor:
- name: Washer
state: >
{% if states("sensor.power_7")|float == 0 %}
Off
{% elif states("sensor.power_7")|float
Hi Ryan! In which file did you add it? the end if needs to be indented a couple of spaces to the left!
@@SmartHomeMakers was able to get this to work by changing end if to endif
@@ryantrainor2 Well spotted!
0
1
The video content was very good, but the colors selected for the wiring diagram were really awful. :(
Hey Jose, thanks for the feedback well the colours are based on the convention for the wires :)
@@SmartHomeMakers a white background would probably make it easier to see.
@@SmartHomeMakers Ok.
offer complicated. My automation. alias: Dryer is off
description: ''
trigger:
- platform: template
value_template: |2-
{% if state_attr('switch.sonoff_100147e1fa', 'power') < 3 %}
true
{% else %}
false
{% endif %}
condition: []
action:
- service: script.motion_in_drive_way_3
data: {}
- service: script.dryer_light
data: {}
mode: single
Sorry Louis I'm not sure about your question
@@SmartHomeMakers what I meant 2 say was I found a simpler template